The pick up I’m diagnosing also do not have injector pulse. I am assuming the computer (ECU) uses signal from pick up coil in order to fire the injector as well. I placed a bulb in place of coil to see if there is any pulse but no pulse meaning it will not fire the coil if I connect them. I don’t want to test with coil because of shock hazard. If I confirm pulse is present then I will connect coil. Is it also possible ECU not getting power or even defective that’s why there in no injector pulse or spark? I was looking at the schematic and module seem to be connected to the ECU as well.
HOWSTUFFINMYCARWORKS, continuing in the vein of basic trouble shooting, my small block Chevy runs for a while perfectly (2-3 mins.) and shuts of suddenly losing power. Any ignition related ideas? I have the same ignition as in the video.
at the 5:09 mark, the test for checking for grounding between each of the pickup wires and the body of the distributor, when i do that, my multimeter registers 17 Mega ohms and it steadily climbs the longer I keep the tester on it. is that a potential problem and causing my no spark situation? I have a brand new magnetic pickup that measures 545 ohms between the 2 wires of the magnetic pickup. i also bought a new module, and coil, and still no spark on my HEI.
I have a question and thank you for the video. Are there any gas savings from upgrading OEM distributor on a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor V8 5.0? Which systems would be more beneficial and less mechanically complicated for this goal? I've also heard of coil on plug systems. I'm a new virgin on an old scene and would appreciate any advice you can give thank you.
The oem distributor from Ford is pretty darned good. The engines computer will adjust total timing, just make sure that your base timing is set properly, I believe 10 degrees of base timing. The Ford timing curve is really good. I'm assuming you're still running the factory fuel injection and engine control computer, should be Ford EEC 4.
one wire from the dist goes to the battery, one to the tach, and where does the other one go to? I've got one going to my alternator...is that right? Thanks PS. This guy really knows his stuff. Think he can swing by and help me hook up my wires? hahaha
Yall are helpless. Google your coils serial number and follow the directions. You gotta make sure you have a direct connection to your battery. Connection for ground. Connection for acc. All of which shoulf go to on/off switch you add to your dash. That way you gotta kill switch, and a way to prevent your car from being stolen
The best information on a HEI distributor I've seen on RUclips. Thanks 👍🇺🇸
Absolutely well done, detailed and to the points that all count.
Great explanation. Thanks
Excellent video! I learned alot. Keep up the good work!
Really great presentation…
Thanks for the video. Good explanation.
Explained this very well. I didn’t understand the set up at all. Thank you
What a great video and explanation! This is exactly what I needed to know
Great explanations
Great explanation! Thank you.
Great explanation. Thanks a lot!
thank you for the great video, well done. and also thanks for the troubleshooting tips
Very good video. Thanks.
Great video . Thanks for sharing the info
Nice job, thank you.
THANX
Great video. Lots of info.
Very nice!
Thanks so much bro
that's what I needed. Thanks!
thank you , very informative.
Thanks man
The pick up I’m diagnosing also do not have injector pulse. I am assuming the computer (ECU) uses signal from pick up coil in order to fire the injector as well. I placed a bulb in place of coil to see if there is any pulse but no pulse meaning it will not fire the coil if I connect them. I don’t want to test with coil because of shock hazard. If I confirm pulse is present then I will connect coil. Is it also possible ECU not getting power or even defective that’s why there in no injector pulse or spark? I was looking at the schematic and module seem to be connected to the ECU as well.
Question for ya if i accidently put the 3 wire connector in backwards what could happen?
saludos cordiales ING cuidese mucho super maestro
if the vaccum hose is wrongly connected, will it effect the engine?
Wish I had seen this. I was in and out of the engine compartment a dozen times before swapping out the module with one out of a spare distributor.
Is that a Matco screwdriver being used as a pointer?
On distributor you have bat wire and tech wire were does the tech connect to.
HOWSTUFFINMYCARWORKS, continuing in the vein of basic trouble shooting, my small block Chevy runs for a while perfectly (2-3 mins.) and shuts of suddenly losing power. Any ignition related ideas? I have the same ignition as in the video.
at the 5:09 mark, the test for checking for grounding between each of the pickup wires and the body of the distributor, when i do that, my multimeter registers 17 Mega ohms and it steadily climbs the longer I keep the tester on it. is that a potential problem and causing my no spark situation? I have a brand new magnetic pickup that measures 545 ohms between the 2 wires of the magnetic pickup. i also bought a new module, and coil, and still no spark on my HEI.
When i turn my key the power goes away from the three wires that connect to the hei module
If I have a push button start where can I put the ignition switch wire?
Add a kill switch
Hi can it be put on a fuelinjection engine
I have a question and thank you for the video. Are there any gas savings from upgrading OEM distributor on a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor V8 5.0?
Which systems would be more beneficial and less mechanically complicated for this goal?
I've also heard of coil on plug systems. I'm a new virgin on an old scene and would appreciate any advice you can give thank you.
The oem distributor from Ford is pretty darned good. The engines computer will adjust total timing, just make sure that your base timing is set properly, I believe 10 degrees of base timing. The Ford timing curve is really good. I'm assuming you're still running the factory fuel injection and engine control computer, should be Ford EEC 4.
is it powered by 12v or through the ballast resistor?
Hei requires full battery voltage at all times. No ballast resistor.
can some one explaine to me what dwell means please?
ruclips.net/video/LT4m2LLKwnE/видео.html
one wire from the dist goes to the battery, one to the tach, and where does the other one go to? I've got one going to my alternator...is that right? Thanks PS. This guy really knows his stuff. Think he can swing by and help me hook up my wires? hahaha
willg54
That would be ground, which apperently goes to one of the bolts that holds the coil to the cap (at one of the corners, if that makes sense)
Yall are helpless. Google your coils serial number and follow the directions. You gotta make sure you have a direct connection to your battery. Connection for ground. Connection for acc. All of which shoulf go to on/off switch you add to your dash. That way you gotta kill switch, and a way to prevent your car from being stolen
Hi how for the ground? Is it through the tribe?