Gym Climbing Forces - Climbing Science
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- How much force is on the climber, the belayer and the bolt when you whip at the gym? 2 years ago we did some tests at the gym and it was really popular, but people said our hertz, or rate in which the load cell reads, was too slow to pick up the peak force. So we literally helped create the LineScale3 which is the only load cell to record internally and reads at 1280hz as opposed to 40hz. I sold @HardIsEasy some of my LS3s and he did some tests at a climbing gym with Mr LineScale3 himself (Andy Reidrich). Find all the graphs and charts about this on our blog 👉👉👉 www.hownot2.co...
Purchase a LineScale3 on our new store! hownot2.store/...
Hard is Easy's episode • The Hardest Possible C...
Original climbing science video • Lead falls in climbing...
LS3 break test episode • Who Won??? LineScale2 ...
👉 Learn and SHOP at www.hownot2.co...
👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: www.hownot2.co...
👉 SUPPORT US and get gear discounts hownot2.com/su...
👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking www.hownot2.co...
Sorry the "ideally no one is going to weigh more than a kN" comment. I didn't think it was ideal to be taking big whippers if were a big climber but Tanner volunteered to fall for science and this mis-speak turned into this gold episode here ruclips.net/video/Tnk4Ky-D9Bg/видео.html
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
The error bars you have added are a massive step up from a few years ago. I have loved seeing your channel grow in information quality over the past few years. This is absolutely fantastic information, and your explanation of why we don't need to worry about being super duper precise was phenomenal. Thank you so much for what you are doing. Definitely has helped with my gear fear.
"1 KN is 224 pounds, and ideally no one is going to weight that." Ouch. That hurt.
Let's not forget that some of the force is also going into the rope when it stretches as well as the fiction on the rope. You showed this really well your Mechanical Advantage is a myth video.
Someone might try integrating the curves over time to measure impulse (kN seconds). Because the dynamic lines spread the force out over time the total force over time (impulse) may still be the similar. A side experiment like the zig-zag test would be do do the same height drop, but short medium and long ground heights (drop from 15 to 5 feet, then from 25 to 15, then from 35 to 25 etc.) and see if the peak force difference gets larger as the length of play in the line increases.
This is probably going to sound asinine, but here me out...can you please put some dynos on a hammock? There are online calculators for the static load, but humans are not static. I'm particularly curious about the forces seen when getting in and out, and while swinging.
yes please!
Somebody wants to feel confident in their $1.75 12kN carabiners lol
Even though no-one's ideally going to weigh 224 pounds (Damn, this stings on a personal level - but you're right), i'd love to see these fall tests on heavier people/test dummies. I suffered from gear fear for a long time, still do to some extent, and 224 pounds it not far away from my weight.
Also a SUGGESTION; I'd love to see an indoor climbing anchor tested! Top roping and relying on a single metal ring that my rope is threaded trough still causes me concern. Also would love to see how the indoor anchors are attached behind the wall! "How durable are indoor climbing anchors" or something.
Agreed, definitely cringed when he mentioned that...not all climbers are 150 lbs. I weigh around 210 and don't whip on trad gear for this reason. I don't even like whipping on bolts if I can avoid it. Would be nice to see how much the added meat adds to the forces (is it linear?)
+1 for heavier test loads!
Another vote for heavier drop loads. 150lbs, that's a bit of a dream for me as I weigh around 250, yet still enjoy climbing. Being on the heavier side does make finding climbing partners interesting, not everyone like to go zipping up because I was pushing my limits in the gym(my old solution to can't reach the next hold was to just throw for it).
Damn, i'm a 100kg climber feeling attacked right now.
That would be a great test! I’ve always wondered how often they are inspected or replaced at gyms but I specifically avoid a particular gym because they’ve had several major injuries due to faulty autobelays. Definitely made me think twice about the people in charge over there.
One word: Excellent video guys!
hahahaha. these one words are getting longer
Your content is awesome. You don’t need to do so much self deprivation. You’re always going to have haters in the comments. I appreciate you addressing them in a mature manner while also poking fun. Also, thanks for the technical explanation on how not to use the LS3.
"1Kn is 224lbs, and ideally no one is weighing that" I feel attacked
That's me rn...
The negative error could occure from the fact that the forces you are measureing are not parallel. If the belayer and the climber are 20° apart, the anchor should see 1.5 % less.
30° => 3.4 % error
40° => 6.0 % error
yep, exactly! Not an error really, but vector addition. It also doesn't help the simplicity that vector direction changes with time when you don't fall straight down. But really cool to see it with the line scales!
Not only that, but peak forces can be on different moments in time, where the sum of the forces over time would actually be lower than the anchor force at that time. I guess there is no synchronization between the linescales so it is difficult to check this.
Vector addition or peaks occurring at different times would explain the qd peaking lower than climber+belayer - not higher than climber+belayer as seen in the video.
“One kN is about 224 lbs, and no one is going to, ideally, weigh that.”
This 224 pound climber watching the video: “Are you calling me fat?!?” 🤨
I did Upper Exum for my last birthday, so testing falls on trad gear for us normal sized people might be cool, too.
HowNot2… insult your viewers. 😆😆😆 It’s all good, though. Love your work!
Nice, Marymoor Park in Redmond Washington. They got some weird bolts there but the climbing fun when it's not greasy.
I don't climb, so I understand almost none of the technical terms used in your videos, but your passion for the community and your channel is respectable.
Hang on, if you're measuring peak loads on belayer, climber, and anchor, and then subtracting them, you can get a "negative" friction number if you these peak loads occured at slightly different times. For instance, the climber bottoms out and hits their max force load at one point in time, but since force doesn't propagate instantly (it actually propogates at the speed of sound inside the rope), the belayer won't feel maximum load until a few tens of milliseconds later, at which point, the climber is already rebounding and feeling less force.
Even if you took the measurements at the same point in time, they still might not line up, since there's a delay between the climber or belayer feeling force and it being transmitted to the anchor. So unless you want to do a lot of math, we probably just have to call it super good enough.
This comment is strictly to help boost this guys algorithm. Content consumed, enjoyed, and appreciated. 🤘
So is this comment :)
@@HowNOT2 well played sir
Greate work. It is obvious that you put in a lot of effort into understanding your measurement gear.
You explained as a climber to a climber, but without leaving out any important details to that use case.
That is tricky. As an engineer I could explain more specific details of how errors effect a measurement system - but you know from reality if what is displayed makes sense to the reality to have perceived.
Oooo fun seeing somewhere local. Loved the look at Ben's stuff and was wondering if you'd mention his video somewhere when I saw the LS3s. Keep up the great work!
I think that the topic of friction is very important and often overlooked. The best example of why friction matters is a 130lb belayer can hold a 220lb climber. With zero friction the climber would pull the belayer all the way up.
Calculating the friction would be very challenging (Masters thesis compilated) because of the bends over the carabiner, stretch and defamation of the rope. Some real world testing measuring rope drag would be interesting. You could try to isolate an upward pull (clipping) vs a downward pull (fall). I would guess that the rate at which the rope is pulled will have a large impact on the resulting forces required.
Any ETA on the math challenge, I have been putting off finishing my simulation.
Top roping for the first time today, between this video, and your older one, I feel a lot safer. So thank you :)
Super safe, especially indoors. Enjoy!
Super safe enough. More likely to pop a finger tendon than get hurt falling!
@@HowNOT2 I'm going to have to get that t-shirt now! Haha
I was at that park the other day! We climbed, practice some anchor belay and rappelling. After, we watched the Cirque du Soleil show right behind. You can see the tent on the right of the triangle wall. Hope Ryan got to see the show too, it was fun and inspiring getting to see amazing humans do flips and tricks.
We have our tickets! HMU if you want to climb there ryan@slackline.com
Hey that's Marymoor park, outdoor climbing gym is a bit of a stretch :D Some of the most polished holds imaginable.
Would love to see break tests on industrial rated vs “hobby” gear, carabiners, ropes with an eyelet, ascendeos, etc. I’m an arborist and would love to see some applied forces with the forces from tree climbing/rigging!
HowNot and Ben's channel are a national treasure
He is from another country ;)
@@HowNOT2 national treasure none the less, thanks for the reply you and Bobby are mad lads, we appreciate what you do.
Zig zagging probably reduced rope stretch due to more friction. And caused their results to be slightly higher
Your videos really have helped me with gear fear! I do appreciate it.
Way to analyize the data is the key. If you use the RMS rather than the average, your data may give you a better outcome. An engineering pun: the interatomic bomb is the failure theory of when the interatomic bond fails. The problem with added friction is the friction causes ropes and slings to fail.
Watching Ben's video on climbing forces I found it crazy how little falling distance was needed to replicate a hard fall on a static sling. Obviously we all know if using static slings to secure ourselves to a belay station (in multi pitch trad climbing) you should keep them loaded so they are not shock loaded but given how little distance was needed to produce a big load, it shocked me how easy it might be to over load a belay station to failure. It would be really interesting to compare this to a similar length dynamic method of securing yourself (such as a lanyard or by tying off your rope) because although it's dynamic it's still very short. How much difference would it really make?
The 'discrepancy' is not just due to friction in the system. It's more likely due to rope stretch. You can test this by putting a pulley at the quickdraw, and if that eliminates most of the friction, then all of the discrepancy is due to rope drag.
6:20 one reason for the climber+belayer
F = m*a, so acceleration relates directly to force (and vice versa). You just have to overcome gravity first, so you will only release off the ground once the force is high enough.
Thank you! I love the numbers. I appreciate all your time and effort
I'm a metallurgist/engineer - your videos are good and I'm not even a climber anymore.
I may have missed it if you pointed it out in the video, fwiw: now that you have time graphs from the Linescale 3, it is clear that the data sampling rate from the Linescale 2 was okay for lead falls.
I am going to actually demonstrate in a video soon how many hz we need for different tests. In our dano jump i found we needed about 100hz if i remember right to not miss the peak force we got. I'm really really excited about that video coming out
wow thats crazy watching you do tests at the outdoor climbing gym/wall at the park near my house haha
wondered how many would recognize it
What I think would be a really interesting experiment would be to re-do the fall test but installing pulleys at the end of all of the quick drawers
It’s definitely not a real world scenario but I think it would be interesting to see the differences in the results
Love your videos keep up the good work
Please do this on the drop tower showing static vs dynamic ropes.
Troll patrol...🤔🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I think you do an awesome job on the videos.
Isn’t the increased force on the quickdraw because the rope path to the draw is not straight (as well as friction). That is, just like an anchor can support 100kg but each anchor point sees greater than 50kg. And the lower peak force on the belayer, surely that’s also because there is more rope from the anchor to the belayer than the anchor to the climber. On the belayer’s side, there’s more rope to stretch to smooth out the peak. You’ve found that before haven’t you? The less rope, the greater the force.
Nice!
About friction in belay system
Imagine you put pulleys or revolver biners in your quickdraws or tope rope.
This would of course decrease friction but the fall is still as hard and the belayer sees more of falling force.
Now imagine if the rope was static, this would of course increase the force more. Why? Because the fall force is spread over much less time of deceleration. Thus higher peak.
I never worried about gear breaking, but thoughts of smacking an elbow or knee on the rock kept me alert.
Hey, Marymoor Park Climbing Wall, I know that place! haha
"The only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down" - Adam Savage
Did he really say that.... because that is funny
@@HowNOT2 ruclips.net/video/BSUMBBFjxrY/видео.html here is a clip of him saying it
I love this video. Thank you so much!
with slightly smaller than average hands, I'm perfectly happy with Camp Nano 22s on my trad rack. I don't use them on sport quickdraws.
Silly question from a non-climber binging your videos: if the belayer gets lifted into the air, and the climber is just dangling in mid-air: how does the belayer get back down to the ground?
Not a silly question. They use the same method to lower the climber but they lower themselves instead. Almost as if using the climber as an anchor and the belayer is abseiling. Hope this helps
@@dobby490 ah! Thanks for the answer! Now it's obvious!
you should do some tests with just how much friction you get going over an edge at different angles, or even different sizes rope or diameter carabiner.
Yours tests are great :D
I'm waiting for next!
“Troll Patrol” 😂
This is a terrifically usefull bit of research. Thank you so much.
I am fairly new to your channel but I am already really intrigued by some of the stuff you were doing. However I must say that I would really like to understand the why behind a lot of these numbers. I understood very well that a plus B did not equal see but there was not much discussion of why that is true. Would love to hear that kind of stuff from you all, as it seems you have been doing this for a little while. Ha ha. Thanks.
Hey, I can develop a numerical model for this.
I would just need more info regarding distances (rope stretch, height above the bolt before, height past the bolt after, tc), and what would you even like to obtain from this model.
I mean, you are measuring forces at a super fast rate which is just about everything that matters. What else do you need to know?
The easier way is for the model to be based on an energetic balance, how the initial gravitational potential energy of the climber, turns to elastic energy in the rope and heat energy from friction. Calculated correctly you can predict forces just about anywhere in the system at a given time.
Join in the math challenge which will be a video coming soon so we can see if anyone can pre-calculate a rope jump. My challenge is I don't think anyone can because the precision of the data we can get from a real life rope jump is limited. Stay tuned
I can’t wait to get into climbing
Hopefully you guys revisit your climbing forces video with the new dynos. I don’t watch that hard is easy after the accusations about him being abusive toward his ex.
Put a large pulley with a ball bearing to redirect the climbing rope instead of the quickdraw. I guess you will see larger forces on the belayer.
Hello, curious if you have tried this with static rope (not that it would be safe for a human load). I'm wondering if the load forces you would expect are quickly absorbed by the 20% stretch in your dynamic line, thus not applying the brunt of the force all at once with only 2-3% stretch of a static line? Could yield a higher force, being an abrupt blow to the other belayer or anchor. Thanks for your videos and drive for your channel. As a rescue instructor in the fire service we are mostly on static lines, I'm always looking after our safety, thanks.
That's a bright background. Here I am thinking that when you go to heaven you actually meet Ryan at the Pearly Gates.
that's really funny
Video request: I’d love to see a video similar to your Amazon carabiner tests on Wish or AliExpress carabiners as well! I’m sure it would do well :)
Anchor the belay. Fixed point off a bolt
Love you mates!! Good job
Ryan, 2:25 is it correct to conclude that an equivalently small (4' ish) fall on a 0.2 X4 cam (rated to 5kn) with my similar (165lb) body will barely hold a fall?! I swear I've fallen repeatedly on the same 0.2 placement in Leavenworth, WA- one time over 12' (5' above the 0.2) and it was rock solid. Was I just lucky? I thought lead falls were smaller than this (realizing you have minimal rope out). Comments section, do your thing!
are you planning on doing a sale on rope anytime soon? Looking to buy a couple by the time spring arrives in New England.
Where is that park? I would love to try an outdoor wall. We only have 1 indoor gym here in Fresno.
Love the content. Keep it coming!
Cool stuuf, keep it up 😊Can you maybe test forces like this with one half/double rope, also probably forces depending on if you clip one, two or so a how they break? 🤔
I don't think it's just friction where you're finding the delta. Isn't the rope effectively short when you zigzag it? Basically you don't have enough rope to stretch right? Like falling from 10 feet up is different than falling with 80 feet of rope in the system.
Please make a video about taglines.
I’m curious what a heavy person like myself (255lbs) would produce for shock load.
I'm wondering if you can 3D print a nice shock and scrape absorbing case for the linescale with a flexible or rubbery resin?
Longer ropes add friction with protection points, yes. However, the longer ropes will also stretch further (a % of total length). I suspect it is a function of these two properties that softens the whip. These are hypotheses you can test, and I'm all about some science.
I really hate to do this, but I must because sciecne.....
1kN = 224.8 lbf (pound force) this is a unit of force not to be confused with the foot pounds (ft-lbs) a unit of energy; pound feet (lb-ft) a unit of torque; OR pound mass (lbs).
Some math nerd will probably correct me if I'm wrong... but as I understand it....
224.8lbf = 224.8 ft-lbs/sec x sec (s^2) because F= ma and if m or a = 0 then F must too = 0: so F≠ m ever.
I'm not trying to troll you or start some huge debate, I just think it is important for your viewers to understand that "Weight Limit" and "Breaking Force" are entirely different measurements and are not directly correlated. One is a static measurement the other is dynamic.
edited for nomenclature
F=ma is a simplified equation to show how a force causes acceleration in a rigid system. Even neglecting the climber as being soft, and friction in the system, this is a mass/spring/damper equation. F=ma + dv + kx, where d=damping coefficient, v=velocity, k= spring rate, and x=displacement. Thus, the F=ma model is already flawed from the start. You bring up longer ropes stretching more. That is because the spring rate goes down due to there being more rope in the system to do the same amount of work. Work of course being force * distance. It can be modeled, but a more pragmatic approach is to get a linescale, and take the whip. Luckily for us, the hownot2 guys are doing just that.
In an equalized system, net force will be zero, and acceleration will be zero, mass doesn’t matter at that point. In F=ma, force and mass can be equal, you just have an acceleration value of 1 (distance/time^2 unit)
@@ryanbowen6484
Ah yes now that you bring that up it makes sense that it would essentially be a mass spring system. I am quite familiar with this math. I guess the rope didn't occur to me to be functioning as the spring.
I wonder about the relationship between climber+belayer weight to force at the quick draw. I know the forces would increase as the total weight increased, but by how much? And How much of a difference does it make if the heavier partner is the belayer vs the climber? Are two 180 pound partners going to generate the same forces as a 140 and a 220 pound partner? How much would 2 partners have to weigh together to start reaching the open gate or cross loaded strength of a carabiner (~7-8 kN) we’re already a little more than halfway there with total weight of ~290 in this video
oh the rabbit trails. I like the ideas. I may have a 300lb guy with a 110lb gal doing some tests for us soon. Maybe they can swap to see the difference!
Short answer, the force will be less with a less massive climber doing the fall. In a static set up the initial state is the same, but the added energy of the fall is going to be the difference. You can model from the initial potential energy or kinetic. For potential it is height x mass x gravity. If the fall distance is the same for both height cancels, and gravity is also the same. So a greater mass represents more potential energy. Similarly for kinetic, 1/2 mass x velocity squared, the acceleration due to gravity is independent of mass. So a fall from the same height both attain the same velocity and we can cancel that. Therefor, more mass at the bottom of the fall has greater momentum.
Mainly due to elasticity of the rope, I would expect test data to show less than the full difference based on mass. As the rope would stretch more for the more massive climber, hence dissipate the fall over a greater distance (and time). Even small differences here can make an impactful change to the forces.
That would be awesome Ryan! Love the work you do.
Thank you for the breakdown BG, that makes sense but now I have to get a pen and paper and work out the formulas to make sure I get it! Would be interesting to see if the physics predictions match the backyard science (the heavier partner generating more force in a fall than the lighter partner)
@@tehrater480 Nothing wrong with pen and paper. I like to think of these as inequalities with large margins. Lots of rounding to one or zero gets you a good enough model.
Looks like Ben has this whole colab thing figured out: Get all the falling money shots for his video and then just delegate all the monologuing, data and troll baiting to Ryan 🤣
Hey, I use a non-extended rappel with a prusik attached to my leg loop using a standard wire gate carabiner. In the case that my atc or locking carabiner blows apart and I have to 100% rely on the prusik...How strong is my leg loop?
To fall 7 seconds he fell 240m and had a velocity at the bottom of 247 km/h
One might consider the weight of the rope into the equation. Keep up the great work! Thank you, and your team.
This does have an effect on big rope jumps. the force at the top is different than the bottom
Question, how can I get the raw data?
I want to see what is the minimum sampling rate to get a reliable reading
I think that friction difference is mostly deformation of rope - I am not sure, maybe dyneema instead of climbing rope could solve it (I don't suggest to human testing that 😅)
"No one is gonna weigh that" - Me climbing with 250lbs.. feelsbadman
Do you have linescale graphs from long rope jumps? Interested to see.
Yes, that is what the math challenge will be about. Very excited to show the data
Isn't the difference possible to be line stretch? That should take off some force, right?
What is the brand of the dynamometer please?
I'd love for you to do a drop test video on fixed-point lead belay
Grigri attached to wall? Our wet ropes break lower is a myth video next week has that
@@HowNOT2 Great! I know the testing from ENSA and ACMG but I think it would be of value for people to see it through your channel since the FPLB is a great tool with many pros for multi-pitching climbing (especially multi-pitch ice). Be cool to see you publish results with manual-braking device, munter (most versatile for ice applications) and even assisted-braking devices (not optimal since tricky to feed slack in fixed-point configuration). A lot of this is taught in our new book "How to Ice Climb" (Falcon, 2021).
Are those peak forces measured at the same time? Are the loadcells synchronized?
It would be cool to see an overlay of the line scales on 1 graph to compare the timing
I don't think they are precision enough for that
This is a great point. I can't think of a good way to synchronize them, unless they could receive some radio frequency from a remote control. Even if you try to match the force curves on some feature like the peak force or the start of the force curve, that wouldn't necessarily correspond to the same instant in time due to stretch, friction, etc.
Maybe a feature for the Line Scale 3+RF :D
drop tower test idea. can you make enough rope friction with multiple Z drags to arrest a fall with no belayer (i know its not worth any science value cause you wouldnt be able to physically climb like that but hey, entertainment.)
Isn't a high line and a slack line the same
If I lube my rope up (to reduce friction) will my falls be softer?
The angle of the person to the quickdraw would also contribute to the “friction difference” kicking off the wall , or climbing overhangs would effect that angle, and therefore the force. (Would be someone cool to test). At least i think 🤷♂️😅
Your catches would so soft as the grigri would just let that lub go right on through until you stop falling ;)
Maybe the climber holding the rope prevents the climber's Linescale from seeing all of the force ?
I don’t advocate for drinking games, but if I did it would be every time Ryan says Newtint. ;)
I had to say kn so many times in this video it was hopeless to say it right. The difference between me and others who can't speak is I try to monetize my speech issues! Go grab a kilonewtont shirt tinyurl.com/2p93y7s7 :)
@@HowNOT2 OMG Ryan, that is funny. Kudos good sir.
Where my Wheatstone bridge fans at? You nerds know what I’m taking about
your talking head video would look so much better with just a $20 5in1 reflector. Use the white side and pop the light back into your face. Itll look dope
I have one for this video
sorry completely unrelated question to the video, but why do you guys copy the old scishow thumbnails? were you guys once part of the scishow brand?
Surely the reason climber sees more force Vs the belayer is because there is less spring (see rope) to take up the force? The Belayer will always have the longest stretch of the rope Vs the climber this is most pronounced during lead climbing Vs top roping.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
In a world without friction both would see exactly the same force.
@@Mike-oz4cv how do you figure that friction is responsible instead of the intentionally inbuilt spring of dynamic ropes? He's not climbing on dynema, and even dynema would have a tiny bit of stretch.
Imagine a spring, the longer the spring the more coils there are to slow the descent, that has nothing to do with friction, please correct me if I'm wrong here.
@@TheSilentStar If there was no friction, the entire rope would stretch equally (acting like one long spring), and the tension would be the same at all points along the rope. Imagine top roping with a frictionless pulley instead of a quicklink. The force (call it F) would be the same on the climber and belayer, and double (2xF) at the pulley anchor, where there's two strands of rope pulling down, each with a force = F.
@@colossalfart So, the length of rope provides more stretch on the longest side because the beener introduces friction into the system, or because the downward force is coming from one side?
Mammut ropes 👌
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does hte Beal Dynaloop reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of this video (ruclips.net/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/видео.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
When you check whether force on climber + force on belayer = force on quickdraw, are you just using the peak force from each cell? Or are you accounting for the fact that the peaks might occur at different times across all three cells? If not, that will contribute to the discrepancy as well as friction. Super interesting video as always though! - knowing a hard whipper only creates around 4kN makes me feel a bit safer!
I assume peak force is all at the same time, but if it is a split second different for each one, wouldn't it still add up to a+b=c?
Well not necessarily. Just as a bit of a thought experiment; Say the peak force on the climber happens at 1 second, the peak on the draw happens at 1.5 seconds and the peak on the belayer at 2 seconds. Obviously those times would be much closer in real life, but go with me. So, our hypothesis is that force on climber (a) + force on belayer (b) = force on draw (c). Forget any friction for the moment. We're saying that this sun must be true at any instant in time. So we take a as the peak force on the climber, which happens at 1 second. However, in our experiment the force on the draw and the belayer have not yet peaked, they will still be rising. So the belayer force we SHOULD add to the climber force is LESS than the peak force we will eventually see at the belayer (at 2 seconds). Consequently, when we add a and b we find they are more than c. Does that make sense? An analogy would be having two bank accounts, and tracking how much money is in each one throughout the year. One account might peak in say April and the other in September. So if you add the April peak for account a to the September peak for account b you'll find it's more than the total amount in both accounts on any given day (c).
^as an aside, I'd be very surprised if the forces did add up even if you did take the timings into account - there is just so much other physics going on (the climber & belayer accelerating/swinging, hysteresis in the rope, friction, slippage at the belay plate)
You better Pipe Andrea's Works buddy ;) Seems like a nice person, great to see you with some female company again!
That looks like Redmond
Liking and commenting for the algorithm :)
So, will the Linescale 4 have a padded box around it?
Or no screen at all and just an app so it is indestructible! Pros and cons with that of course
This is why i trust every gear i have because i know im not heavy as a whale to break it
I prolly shoulda watched this before watching a bunch of the equip failure videos, I was sitting here thinking wow things are weak that are supposed to save lives, 20kn seems weak
Attribute*