Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Y Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #6

In this video I'll be installing the Y Axis ball screw assembly into the G0704 milling machine.
Using a 3D printed shaft coupler to drill adapter, I spin the ball screw to test the axis for binding. I set the clutch on the drill to setting 3, which is so light you can stop the drill chuck from turning with just two fingers.
Edit: I'll be repairing/filling-in the section of the section of the hole that was cut too big to help protect the ball-screw from falling chips. Will also add an additional way cover to keep chips out of the (remaining) new hole that's been created.
Chapters
0:00 - Intro & Double Ball Nut Fit
1:04 - Cutting the Top Slot (a little too much)
2:35 - Drilling Out the 1-1/4 inch Hole in the Front
3:37 - Widening the Top Slot
4:15 - Ball Nut to Casting Clearance
5:12 - Double Ball Nut Explanation and Key Retainer Sleeve
5:59 - Saddle Milling Fail
6:58 - End Mill Slip / Pull-Out and End Mill Holder Solution
8:03 - Cheesy Saddle Repair with JB Weld
8:21 - Clamping Block Slot Enlargement
9:42 - Different size Gibs
11:11 - Ball Nut / Clamping Block Alignment
11:39 - How Much Extra Travel?
12:06 - Check for Binding / Full Travel Check
12:27 - Conclusion
Music: bensound-straight

[@joat_mon]

Update: My total USABLE cross travel is 7.25 inches. It would probably go to close to 7.5 if it weren't for the rear way-cover taking up space.

[@joat_mon]

If I were to do this over, I would consider making some changes. Obviously, I would not have removed so much material from the top slot. The other thing that's obvious, is how thin the casting gets at the top of the inch and a quarter hole in the front. It seems to me that the whole ball screw assembly could be lowered a bit. I'd have to remove some material from the flange on the bottom of the ball nut so it would clear the casting below it. Then 3D-print a jig to guide a hole saw, off center (lower) of the original hole in the casting. The motor mount, mounting holes would also need to be adjusted in either the casting or the motor mount itself. Then, too, a longer clamping block would be required. Just some food for thought.
Edit: I just noticed, lowering the Y-axis motor mount will likely cause it to hit the stand drip / chip pan. This could be solved by adding a spacer between the mill base and the pan, raising the mill a bit.

[@yellowcrescent]

Nice job. I wish I would have thought about using a recip saw on the casting. I used a die grinder... and it was very painful. lol. Not sure if my casting is weird or what, but I also need to add clearance on the right side of the existing casting slot in order for the nut assembly to not rub. Buying a second saddle was also a good idea.. I might still do that. Even though I have a drill press, it just left a bunch of craters in the metal, and it's not rigid enough to cut out the thin walls, so more die grinding.

[@joat_mon]

Thanks for the feedback!
The reciprocating saw is one of my most used tools. I use it for everything from cutting aluminum stock to pruning branches. I'll have to put a die grinder on my Christmas list.

[@Festivejelly]

If you have a lathe I bet you could mount the Y axis where the tool post goes then put an end mill in the chuck and hog out the material that way.

[@joat_mon]

Good idea. But, I don't have a lathe... yet. :-)

[@Festivejelly]

Get one they are great! Ive just finished an ELS/CNC conversion of my budget lathe and it works really well. I used a controller called Nano ELS and its really good.@@joat_mon

[@44mod]

great video! very informative. thumbs up and a new subscriber. Thank you!!

[@joat_mon]

Thanks!