How to Replace Fuel High Pressure Sensor BMW F10 N55 535i
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- I replaced my fuel rail sensor with a Bosch unit (same as original) and show how easy it is to do it! Sorry about the audio quality. 2 videos from now I'll be using my new mic setup and this won't be an issue moving forward! :-)
Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor (FCP)
www.fcpeuro.co...
Performance mods at this time are:
Bimmerhaus Intake,
GPlus Intercooler,
BMS charge pipe,
Catless downpipe,
Valved mufflers,
MHD on custom Davis Shoup Tune,
B58 coils with N20 NGK spark plugs @ full 0.030”,
xHP Stage3 Trans tune
Thank you so much brother from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦✅
Your Welcome!
Awesome! Very detailed and helpful!!!
Thank you bro!
Thanks for showing you are awesome.
Thanks for that! Hope it helped you!
My exhaust stinks of fuel and I have codes for fuel rail/ system pressure too low & too lean codes. I’ve replaced both hpfp and still no fix. Any help or idea ?
Hard to say without having the car here, but what you're describing sounds a lot like when an injector is faulty and has stuck open. You can check this via 2 ways- first is using BMW's ISTA if you have access to it and run a test plan for injectors. If no access to ISTA, pull all spark plugs and you will likely have one that reeks of fuel and looks darker than the rest. That would likely be your leaky injector. It would explain why your exhaust stinks of fuel AND why you can't hold rail pressure.
What kind of car is this on. Im helping my son replace it through video and it appears that you removed an air box before doing the job and didnt mention it.
Advise, if you know how to wrench, force your son to learn before he moves out of California and you cant fix his car for him anymore.
2011 X3M.
Whats yours?
That’s a tough situation for your son! Definitely will have to enroll in “RUclips Academy” and have you for guidance!
This is on a 2011 535. Yes, airbox has to come out to do this job. I didn’t mention it because I don’t have one. I have a Bimmerhaus Performance intake that eliminates the excessively long factory intake tract and routes it to the passenger kidney grille
Very nice! Thanks so much for your response. BMW has no standards. They make everything different. And yes, my son got the bug now. He feels proud to have fixed his own car and has now enrolled in the YT Academy. Lol.
Have a great day my friend!
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
good vid! do you know what's the torque number for the sensor screw?
BMW specs it as “30-5 Nm”… which doesnt make sense to me lol. They have other parts with listings with an acceptable variance like say “25 +/-3 Nm”. So not sure if the sensor’s listing is s typo?? So i just tightened it by hand estimate 😂
Can this cause code 3162 - Tank ventilation system, shutoff valve, activation: Line disconnection? If not what could it be.
A quick google search shows that code is specific to a fault with the cylinder 5 injector. So i would look at that. Not sure where you’re seeing that tank vent system fault. But if that were accurate, i would inspect your tank vent valve. Neither have to do with the rail pressure sensor though
Shoes it threw mhd but the car drives great but every 20 minutes it starts stuttering and I get no throttle response some times it will build boost but hult then it goes away and drives fine for 20 minutes
If this sensor is bad would it cause ur car to smoke a little out the muffler
With no reference to know what the rail pressure is, the DME will put the car into limp mode (no boost, very slow acceleration, and it will make the engine run on a rich fuel map). That last one CAN cause smoke out the back depending on how rich and other factors going on in your engine bay. Although, this sensor BY ITSELF going bad should not cause smoking out back. I recommend further diagnosis
My 335i throws a 2c01 code and 2bde/ 2bfe shadow code if I accelerate hard on the car check engine turns on and car instantly dies off into limp mode I checked pressure and sensor reads pressure dropped pressure on the high pressure side and if I clear the code and turn off the car and turn it back on it goes back to normal
Several things can cause that- including a dying HPFP or if you’re lucky a dying LPFP (much cheaper), or an overheating EKPS (among other factors). I suggest you go with this info to the FB group of your platform for faster assistance.
Did u fix it i git similar sytuation
So before I switched out the HPFP and low pressure fuel pump my car would stall out while driving after 20 mins. After 5 mins of it off it will start back up and fuel malfunction would go away. I replaced them both and still getting the same results My exhaust does smell like fresh gas a little any advice maybe the HPFP sensor and fuel injectors possibly? My car is at 99,000 miles.
Actually what was happening to you before replacing both pumps is exactly what happens with the EKPS (fuel pump control module) begins to fail. It essentially overheats after a while and gives out fuel pressure and overvoltage for given pressure errors. Then once you shut it off and let it cool down a few minutes it behaves as normal. So that’s where I would be looking!
@@turbospool I should have that posted that I did replace the fuel pump control module that connects to the battery correct ? If so I did replace it. So I’m lost I don’t wanna spend the money taking it to a shop anything else you could think of ?
@@whittier56duce88 hard to tell without seeing logs of when the crash happens and without me being able to look over tue work done. But another common thing Ive seen if you upgraded the LPFP is corrosion on the power and ground cables going to the connector on the top hat of the LPFP. This can also cause what you’ve been experiencing. But I would think this would have stood out during install as it would look like a burn wire or burnt terminal on the connectors
So my old sensor was reading 20kPa and i replaced it and is now reading 70kPa. These are both obviously way too low could it be my fuel pump even though i replaced it 9 months ago?
Car cranks infinitely and will not start
Do you have any trouble codes? 70kpa is barely 10psi. If so, the engine shouldn’t even run if that’s accurate. My Walbro low pressure fuel pump by itself can put out 108psi during cold start (about 744kpa).
Should i unhook the negative terminal on the battery? Can it be done without touching the battery?
2012 bmw x5 35i
Your decision. BMW’s procedure will tell you to disconnect the battery once fuel pressure has been relieved from the rail. THIS IS ME IN MY CAR- I did not bother disconnecting the battery. It literally takes me longer to access the battery and undo the terminal than to just replace this sensor lol. I am no trained technician nor do I claim to be, lol. Really, as long as ignition is OFF when you are doing this, you are HIGHLY UNLIKELY from having any issues. It is no different than changing spark plugs; for example, where you have to disconnect the coils. No one ever disconnects the battery to do that :-)
I have this code, bro .
119208 0x119208 Fuel low pressure sensor: signal, fixed
what i should do ?
That's a very open question. How you approach the fix to this code would depend on what chassis, what engine, what year, are you tuned or not?
will this fix P0192 fuel rail pressure sensor low input?
It COULD. Just depends if you actually have a bad sensor OR a faulty HPFP causing the sensor to read abnormally low pressure. Just he aware that this is a possibility. Hopefully in your case it’s just a bad sensor. That is MUCH cheaper and easier to replace than the HPFP.
Is this the same of P12A4 Code? I have that code.. but i want to make sure what is it...
Can you please answer.. thank you!
Just googled that code- that’s a MAP sensor at the intake manifold code for pressure being too low. Nothing to do with rail pressure
@@turbospool oh so the MAP sensor is faulty/going bad... need to be replace it...
I’m currently having an issue. Getting error code, high pressure fuel pump pressure too low. Car misfires at high rpm. Doesn’t do it all the time just sometimes. Could it be this?
It could be. Or your High Pressure fuel pump is on its way out. Do you have a way to monitor the DME’s live data to watch the pressures (target rail pressure and actual rail pressure) when you have this error take place?
What was the issue you where having. I’m having issues with my car n54 2009 335xi. The car thinks is running out of fuel but it’s fuel on the car. I read the codes and said something about fuel sensor. So I’m not sure what to do
I was not having issues. I upgraded the pump in preparation for a big turbo coming up soon.
As for your issue, are you on stock software or are you tuned? If you’re tuned I’d try to record a log to monitor low and high fuel pressures. Are there any other codes present?
You’re also on N54… what index injectors are you running? An early index injector that is stuck open will burn up a lot of fuel but could also trip fuel pressure faults. Looking at the fuel trims would further support that if the DME is pulling a lot of fuel in one bank compared to the other (cyl 1-3 is considered bank 1, cyl 4-6 is considered bank 2 on the N54).
Wait by running out of fuel… do you mean the car thinks it has little fuel in the tank (as in, problem with the level sensor), OR that it cane build up pressure (as in issue with pumps or sensors as my prior response)?
@@turbospool is a car It was going to buy for a project. It got 150k miles on it. The car still runs and drives. But I haven’t even got a chance to go see it the guy stay like 1 hour away. He’s only asking 2.5k for it But I’m not sure if I’m going to buy it. I know those injectors are very expensive
@@turbospool yes Is thinking that is low on fuel. But the car is completely full with gas. It was thinking the same maybe level sensor or something simple
@@TRUEGamer-jc8ov gotcha. Then I’d call your local BMW dealership or see online if the fuel tank level sensor is available separately OR if only as part of the fuel pump bucket assembly. It’s hit or miss with BMWs if that’s available separately. Either way the bucket would have to come out of the tank, and if the tank is full you should siphon out gas before opening the top lid lol (if you decide to go buy it). At that price it may be worth going to see it. Even if you don’t keep it it could be a potential flip candidate with fixing that fuel level issue and giving it a full detail!
Replacing this sensor may can fix the code 2C01 ?
Not if the sensor is reading correctly. A fault high pressure fuel pump could also trigger this (and other) codes. Same with a leaky fuel injector. I recommend you look over your fuel system and diag deeper
@@turbospool Well i have those two Code: (2C01 High pressure fuel, plausibility Pressure too low)
and this same message from piston 1, 3 and 4 (2FAB Ignition, cylinder 4:
Combustion period too short)
@@alexsotovlog there you go. Thats a better picture. Do you have a means of monitoring rail pressure target Vs actual pressure? That would be needed to confirm A- do you have a steady signal from the sensor, and B- if the high pressure fuel pump has failed/ is on its way out.
@@turbospool thank you so much for you support
Can this sensor make car not turn on ?
POSSIBLY since it could give the wrong reading to the DME and cause it to bounce the HPFP target psi all over the place, making it very difficult to start. But this would generate trouble codes for rail pressure or HPFP output too low/high for the given input, something like that
@@turbospool can the HPFP make car not start at all ?
@@demoonpr absolutely can. But again, you should have trouble faults generated for it when you scan for codes.
@@turbospool the code that my car is having is P0087, Fuel Rail, system pressure to low and won’t turn on
@@demoonpr i’d want to see the real time fuel pressures at the time of start up. Make sure the low pump is priming (should come up to 50-70psi). And if say over night rail pressure should be about the same as the low side pressure since the HPFP hasn’t started as it runs off engine RPM. If your rail pressure is way off, OR if the reading is fluctuating/ bouncing around wildly, then yes I’d start by replacing that sensor.
I only suggest doing this to make sure something doesn’t seem right with the actual reading from that sensor… instead of just throwing parts at the problem.
What codes you get when this sensor starts to fail?
Various codes. Mostly having to do with rail pressure faults or HPFP output too low for given voltage
This sensor is going to fail eventually so it’s good to replace it especially since it’s cheap and easy.
Exactly!!
My N55 have a problem error 2BF8 it's replace Fuel High Pressure Sensor or the low pressure fuel pump ?
Google says that code is “rail pressure signal: permanently stuck”. Thats the high pressure sensor on the rail, so the one Im showing here on the video for ya
Thank you !!@@turbospool
I switched out my hpfp, and my ekp and in still having issues, sometimes the car just dies driving and then takes like 5 mins to turn back on or wont start at all if i put the stage 2 tune on it. Lpfp pressure is 72 psi consistent, the hpfp does jump a bit.
The codes im getting are High fuel pressure when injection is enabled: Pressure too low
Could it be this sensor?
Any input is greatly appreciated.
If rail pressure is low you should be lean in lean condition. *If* your exhaust stinks of fuel during this low rail pressure situation… I wonder if you have a leaky injector. This is where I would hook it up to ISTA (you can download it online through various forums… I haven’t done it so idk lol) and run diagnostics on the fuel pump and fuel injectors. There’s entire test plans for it within ISTA.
If your exhaust does NOT stink of fuel, I’d suggest you go right to ISTA diagnostics OR have a specialist look at it.
Thank you so much for the reply, a specialist will be taking a look! I switched out the rail sensor but that wasn't the issue. @@turbospool