When the wave breaks there, don't be here: The story of Laurie Towner

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  • Опубликовано: 1 дек 2024
  • By Marcus Thompson
    Affectionately known as the ‘big three’ the surf industry’s biggest players Rip Curl (Torquay, Vic), Billabong (Gold Coast, Qld) Quiksilver (Torquay, Vic) all have their roots in Australia.
    The companies grew from the back of cars and garages, servicing a small but growing surf population during the 1960s and early 1970s with clothes and surf hardware.
    By the late 1970s surf culture had become a global phenomenon and the fascination surrounding surf culture led to unprecedented growth.
    By the late 1990s the industry’s value was estimated at $10 billion.
    Fast forward to the late naughties, the industry bubble was ready to burst. The global financial crisis of 2008, an over-saturation of surf culture in the marketplace and the rise of online retailers all contributed to the downfall. For core surfers the industry had lost its way. It was brought to its knees and is yet to recover.
    As in most cases when industries fail, those who lose their jobs adapt their skill set and apply their tools to a new industry. But for the surfers whose job it was to surf to market the multi-billion dollar industry, the job openings were slim. There isn’t a big market for surfing critical, high-risk mountains of moving water outside the surf industry.
    One surfer who was riding the wave and was plunged into the depths as the industry fell apart is Laurie Towner, regarded by many as the greatest big wave surfer on the planet. Laurie, like many former pro surfers works a trade and surfs between shifts.
    Cover Image by Timothy Bonython
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Комментарии • 294

  • @mrimprovements
    @mrimprovements 5 лет назад +108

    Words to live by: appreciate every hour, be a father to your children, husband to your wife and the type of friend you'd like to have.

  • @dutch1171
    @dutch1171 6 лет назад +249

    4:42 right there is priceless... That my friends is why we become fathers and realise at the end of the day, money means nothing. Family is everything. Damn that brought a tear to my eye seeing that. What a great bloke.

    • @valdo9482
      @valdo9482 6 лет назад +9

      Preach brother!

    • @hectorinnes6479
      @hectorinnes6479 6 лет назад +3

      dutch1171
      G

    • @73gmiller
      @73gmiller 5 лет назад +1

      dutch1171 right on brother

    • @justsomenerd8925
      @justsomenerd8925 5 лет назад +5

      Let me know how feeding a family on no money works out for you. Money isn't nothing, it just isn't the most important.

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад +1

      Money is nothing until you don’t have any. Come on!

  • @nelsonlugo45
    @nelsonlugo45 5 лет назад +26

    Laurie has been my favorite surfer for so long that I can't even remember how long, and I'm 67 and started at age 9...
    my first memory of him is a photo of the boy at Ships, which is still on my wall next to autographed pix of Curren, Shaun, Rabbit, Owens, Propper, The Animal and others. This video is precious to me. Live long and prosper, brother. Aloha

    • @AlexRiesco
      @AlexRiesco 4 года назад

      Nice story, Nelson!
      Greetings from a guy from...Lugo!

  • @jeffjeeves6337
    @jeffjeeves6337 6 лет назад +386

    Surfing isn't a sport, it's an antidote to all the things in life that sometimes piss you off.You might have crappy job,a bashed up old car,and a board full of dings,but every now and then you experience the takeoff, the board comes alive,and you become earthed to some kind of current,the antidote........

    • @ATMfromNJ
      @ATMfromNJ 6 лет назад +18

      jeff jeeves that current... crawls through the legs and plugs you into something... without name. If you've been there you know and the feeling is infinite yet leaves you hungry for more.

    • @GeriDoc8
      @GeriDoc8 5 лет назад +8

      I've been there hundreds of times. It's like nothing else in the world

    • @laughteraddict1003
      @laughteraddict1003 5 лет назад +2

      Indeed

    • @izzojoseph2
      @izzojoseph2 5 лет назад +2

      Same reason I climb

    • @tomandalbert
      @tomandalbert 5 лет назад +1

      The biggest thrill is being first out, in the biggest sets all to your self watching other surfer on the bluff chant and dance after you've been blown out of the tube to kick out and paddle back to the break. I sit and watch way outside knowing they won't make it through the soup. The Hook is just too big. Early '70 surfing the Santa Cruz 41st ave with Punch my Belgian Tervuren dog after Vietnam surfing on my AIPA like my hero Ben AIPA. Money can't buy hearing AIPA, AIPA, AIPA,.....

  • @MagicMalky
    @MagicMalky 6 лет назад +51

    i've known laurie since he was 13-14 he's always been a real good dude

  • @nicelydone8017
    @nicelydone8017 6 лет назад +27

    I have a lot of respect and admiration for this man. He lives a big wave surfer’s lifestyle, has an amazing family life, and yes that’s right: he works hard for a living too. All in all not too bad! He doesn’t really seem too busted up or bitter about not being a rich and famous pro. He seems grateful for his blessings. Great story.

  • @75chrismccarthy
    @75chrismccarthy 5 лет назад +15

    A great example of the quote: "Whatever obstacle comes your way, you gotta be prepared to jump over it!" Well done bro...

  • @stuarthayward2220
    @stuarthayward2220 6 лет назад +110

    Mad surfing skills and appears to be a humble as well. Cheers mate!

    • @larjkok1184
      @larjkok1184 6 лет назад +1

      Stuart Hayward
      Oh thank god he’s humble.

  • @kanakahawaii6860
    @kanakahawaii6860 6 лет назад +158

    "When the wave breaks here dont be there, or you're gonna get drilled." - Turtle

    • @johnkirkhart4
      @johnkirkhart4 4 года назад +2

      Yeah. No

    • @johnkirkhart4
      @johnkirkhart4 4 года назад +1

      Barney. But I'm not a barney. Brotha brotha kind

    • @Dilligads
      @Dilligads 4 года назад +3

      He doesn't even know hes joj

    • @johnkirkhart4
      @johnkirkhart4 4 года назад +1

      He so barney he doesnt even know he's barney

    • @johnkirkhart4
      @johnkirkhart4 4 года назад +2

      Down here we treat friends mo betta

  • @selectsovereigntydefendlib9884
    @selectsovereigntydefendlib9884 6 лет назад +19

    His humility makes him that much more of a badass.

  • @blostin
    @blostin 6 лет назад +48

    What a fine guy! Beautiful family!

  • @sushimamba4281
    @sushimamba4281 6 лет назад +63

    He seems like a good bloke with his head screwed on right. He can be thankful he was well paid to do what he loves for part of his life. Now he's gotta earn a living (like most of us) and enjoy surfing purely for the love it. That's not too bad an outcome.

    • @Blunt3021
      @Blunt3021 6 лет назад +1

      Facts

    • @AndreRMeyer
      @AndreRMeyer 4 года назад

      + Sushi Mamba "That's not too bad of an income"

  • @thomasknight-wagener6630
    @thomasknight-wagener6630 6 лет назад +82

    so in other words a tiler is a better surfer than the ones on contract and he does his part in his job and still finds time to hit the world's biggest waves

    • @conspiraciesarejustgreatst2059
      @conspiraciesarejustgreatst2059 6 лет назад +2

      Well, surfing doesn't have the ability to establish itself as a regular sport due to it relying solely on nature. So casual fans who have to travel to crazy locations to watch live contests won't spend the money, thus turning them off to surfing all together. There's also a very very small market for the professionals to become nationally recognized or world famous. In turn, they don't get to sell merchandise like jerseys, equipment or even boards. If they are able to create more man-made waves like Kelly Slater's ranch, surfing will grow amongst casuals cuz they know exactly where to go and the know that there's definitely gonna be surfable waves that are exciting. Hopefully a big wave tour style pool can be created so we can see guys charge waves over 20-30'. I know that's probably never gonna happen, at least in my lifetime, but theoretically it can be done

    • @sloppyoppie
      @sloppyoppie 6 лет назад

      As always my friend.

    • @FishOutofWater00
      @FishOutofWater00 6 лет назад

      Robert Loblaw Big waves certainly take conditioning and commitment. JJF won the Eddie in all time conditions the same year he won the WSL championship so it's fair to say that the best big wave surfers are great surfers. Laurie Towner was in the wrong place at the wrong time in the surf "industry" but he survived the beatdown just fine. He has his head in the right place. The time he is spending with his daughter is priceless.

  • @illsayitsinceno-oneelsewil2721
    @illsayitsinceno-oneelsewil2721 5 лет назад

    I'm a 55 year old surfer from Huntington beach. I've surfed all over the world
    YOU GUYS ARE NUTS!! Surfing a wave as oddball as that!!! Love to WATCH you do it though!!! Good for You!!! Keep on Surfing. Us old guys live vicariously thru you . THAT, is some Incredible athleticism#!!!!!

  • @thesurfingviolinist
    @thesurfingviolinist 6 лет назад +24

    This is so well edited. Well told. What an inspiring dude.

  • @MetalProductions1996
    @MetalProductions1996 6 лет назад +4

    Beautiful surf, beautiful family, and beautiful attitude ... i wish the rest of the world could live and have such a great view twards life ... may god be with us all

  • @shamusmurfett7136
    @shamusmurfett7136 6 лет назад +2

    What a bloody legend! Wish there were more blokes like this getting it done.

  • @kenmoore7195
    @kenmoore7195 5 лет назад +33

    What a great ambassador for surfing In Australia.
    I started surfing in 1969 and now at 62 I still feel the Stoke however, like most things in life it is usually the good guys that get shafted.
    Shame about that .
    Just remember next time you are in a surf shop and are about to purchase a product make sure that it is one from a company that is ethical and not just chasing a buck !
    Sad to see that surfing has become a "Business " with Bean Counters making the decisions.

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад

      What does “feel the Stoke” mean? Is it like being stoked? - a young American also 62.

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад

      “Chasing the big bucks” is the definition of a business, I’m afraid. :/

    • @kenmoore7195
      @kenmoore7195 4 года назад

      Lisa Schuster The rush, that feeling you get when you really enjoy something.

    • @redsammy7789
      @redsammy7789 4 года назад +2

      started surfing in 69 also, looking back, chasing waves I missed several opportunities in life to make a lot of money, would do it all over again, I was and am rich in life thanks to surfing.

    • @serinadelmar6012
      @serinadelmar6012 4 года назад

      redsammy ♥️

  • @MRxr400
    @MRxr400 5 лет назад +7

    That’s some crazy surfing. Especially his paddle ins. Best of luck, may you live a long full life

  • @killereverb3928
    @killereverb3928 6 лет назад +1

    This guy is an inspiration. Winning attitude and he knows what's most important - family.

  • @deemiller943
    @deemiller943 5 лет назад +4

    wow, have surfed since 1974...these guys are way more comitted...and talented then I have ever been...
    let's support them...

  • @tricypher8565
    @tricypher8565 5 лет назад +30

    “Spectacularly-ly. ... It ended spectacular. Ly. .... It basically just blew up.”

  • @edmccaffrey1
    @edmccaffrey1 2 года назад +1

    Life is short and precious, good on ya mate!

  • @cristinafultz4572
    @cristinafultz4572 5 лет назад +3

    "Never tell people this"
    Proceeds to tell everyone.
    I don't understand how this guy's not making money surfing.
    But until then, welcome to the grind.
    It's not so bad ,besbesides it definitely helps you appreciate the things in life you really love.
    Unless that is getting paid to surf.
    Best of luck to you , peace

  • @MisterstereoOso
    @MisterstereoOso 4 года назад +1

    Great vid, legend who has lived it, paid his dues, & now is grounded with a beautiful family , dude did good ! Bless ya !

  • @Glanduse
    @Glanduse 6 лет назад +7

    Would much rather watch guys like Laurie do their thing than support the direction WSL is taking the sport.

  • @ClaiomSolis
    @ClaiomSolis 5 лет назад +12

    Its always important to gain a trade skill when it comes to a sport.

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад +2

      Yeah. Think about young girls modeling. The work pays you for being young while doing nothing to prepare you for life.

  • @rodneycaupp5962
    @rodneycaupp5962 4 года назад

    The biggest wave I was ever on, made our 400 foot long Destroyer behave like a submarine. We were already taking water and believed to be going down. Three decks up, the bridge was flooded. If you want to see some waves, you gotta be up against the outer wall of an F5 Hurricane..... In theory the highest peak a wave can reach is a 150 feet. We surfed that one on a broken ship. After three days, we managed to pound our way into the eye, and lived to tell about the "walk on walls". This video was a beauty of a different kind. You dudes keep it up, we'll keep watching.

  • @7sunnycrest
    @7sunnycrest 6 лет назад +5

    always admired Laurie for his unnerving commitment

  • @johnpullen5716
    @johnpullen5716 Год назад

    I'm 52yrs brought up our home town Yamba Angourie our family left i was turning 16yrs old. moved to Burleigh Heads i started my plumbing apprenticeship but everytime the swell was on i was straight back home for it . Never missed plus earning big money working for big companies doing commercial jobs highrise. funding myself chasing waves everywhere for decades. Moved back turning 30yrs to home Yamba Angourie watching Laurie as a teenager already a full team rider. He is such a humble, grounded, gifted young man and his achievements in the big wave travelling free surfing career. he showed and delivered that he is definitely 1 of the best in the world in this chosen career. To hear that he got dropped and had his young family and loving partner that news i thought couldn't be true. unfortunately it was and i couldn't process this how Laurie's career with the name he had already built. they would end a contract drop 1 of the best in the world. and it's all over just like that we'll ive seen some clips on RUclips Laurie surfing now for Essential. and what shows you everything Laurie is was the clip him packing the family up. travelling Australia and Surfing many places ive spent decades travelling to . Watching him surfing many solid session's alone but the heartfelt moments. are Laurie out surfing with his wife and kids are priceless and fishing or free diving bringing in the dinner. A true waterman and devoted family man wish you all the best in the future plans Laurie.that life will provide you and your family with everything you deserve 🤙🤜🤛🍻🥂

  • @jamesbadham228
    @jamesbadham228 6 лет назад +4

    Laurie's a cool dude. Respect for standing by his commitments and responsibilities to himself and his family through what had to be heavily stressful times. Came out the other end smiling and happier, it seems, than a lot of the aggro surf rats you see in the water with stickers on their boards.

  • @larryslemp9698
    @larryslemp9698 6 лет назад +2

    Man, that is one awesome guy!! Sincere compliments!!

  • @surffrothdelivery2654
    @surffrothdelivery2654 4 года назад

    i've known laurie since we were kids. that nice guy he comes across as is spot on complete legend

  • @jayc4880
    @jayc4880 5 лет назад +1

    Laurie is one cool dude. Such a good man.

  • @bfnew4440
    @bfnew4440 4 года назад

    Surf brands are a business. If you're working for them and not making them money, you're shown the door. I'm glad this bloke is doing well now.

  • @ghmods102
    @ghmods102 4 года назад

    so much positivity from this guy

  •  4 года назад +3

    And then are surfers, and surfers will do anything for a wave. The brave rescuers play a very big roll in water safety and without them, the death toll in big wave surfing would be very high.

  • @SJUCityBoy
    @SJUCityBoy 4 года назад

    My respect to you, sir. It takes a unique type of person to do this sport. The type of person with balls of steel, man or woman. Even though I grew up by the ocean, I knew I didn't have it in me. Kudos!

  • @shanedennis1136
    @shanedennis1136 5 лет назад +4

    Reminds me of this girl shes an absolute legend. We call her 3 story laurie. Jumped off the 3rd floor cause she thought the cops came to a house party when we were all underage....anyway shattered both ankles killed the vibe of the party. Shes a legend tho 3 story laurie

  • @upsidedahead
    @upsidedahead 6 лет назад

    If i won the Lotto I'd sponsor Laurie immediately, no questions. He's one of the best surfers in the world. It ain't right that he has no surf industry backing, after all he's done for the sport. Fucking LEGEND !!!

  • @vincentharley2116
    @vincentharley2116 6 лет назад +3

    No money can pay for the price of getting spat out of a huge barrel! Legend for recognition! From west oz underground :)

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад

      Hey, I’ve never done more than body surfing, but I would spend whole long afternoons “down Maine” just jumping over waves at that spot before they begin to break. Heaven. Bliss. Endless youth.

  • @MoonbeamBear61
    @MoonbeamBear61 5 лет назад +1

    Laurie is my fave. What a guy...

  • @nanoloopbandit
    @nanoloopbandit 4 года назад

    Some of the greatest surfers I’ve seen in my life were guys who did it just for the fun of it, never got paid a cent, some never even bothered to compete. Just for the thrill

  • @glywnniswells9480
    @glywnniswells9480 5 лет назад

    Well done for taking real humble job ...tilers and tradesman of all kinds do alot more for society than any actor or billionaire.

  • @aarontillery26
    @aarontillery26 6 лет назад +5

    as a father my dream would to be on a surf board with my daughters in warm water.. We live in northern cali.. jealous..

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад +1

      I grew up in Maine, and once you’re numb, the water feels fine! 🤗

  • @Arrica101
    @Arrica101 4 года назад

    I think what a lot of people forget is that sports are an entertainment industry. If they can't make money from entertaining people then you aren't gonna get paid, simple as that. Sure selling shirts and shorts etc helps but at the end of the day it's an entertainment industry, and you are your own product.
    But dude seems super humble and I'm glad he never just fell of the bandwagon and let life get him down

    • @MsJubjubbird
      @MsJubjubbird 5 дней назад

      The GFC meant a lot of surf companies tightened their belts. People cut back on surf trips to Bali and Byron Bay. Additionally, the budget department stores stepped it up and started doing cheap active and beachwear that no longer looked like it was borrowed from your great grandma and fell apart at the second wash. Some brands even did partnerships with the stores - like Mambo and Big W. So, there wasn't the need to pay athletes millions to promote their stuff. Surfing is also not shown much on TV and, when it is, it doesn't attract legions of viewers, being a judged sport and all. So, less advertising money.

  • @MJLeger-yj1ww
    @MJLeger-yj1ww 6 лет назад +11

    Yes, "you figure things out when you're older" and you learn there are important things to live for, like family! I used to heli-ski when it first started, and even today, I marvel that I was never caught in an avalanche -- lucky indeed! And I used to dive but I never courted danger, I've seen too many lives lost to not value my own! I knew my limits and did not press them. I don't know if I'd dive today, with so many sharks coming in close due to the slight elevation of ocean temps, and I never pressed my luck going deeper than I knew was safe. It's easy to get caught in the moment, but you look at your fathometer and say OMG I better go up, gradually! I never went more than a few feet into a cave and I wouldn't go unless the tide was going out. There's just too many phenomena that can happen at a second's notice. I did some very daring things when young that I wouldn't chance for anything now, like bungee jump! And certainly not in the dark anywhere!

    • @lisaschuster9187
      @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад

      Sound like you’re ready to try wind surfing in a wing suit haha! I’ve always been a total coward, and I’d rather have been like you - the happy medium. 😊

  • @NickoOutBush
    @NickoOutBush 6 лет назад +16

    Such a great role model, too.

  • @jarrodhill9149
    @jarrodhill9149 5 лет назад +2

    What a gentleman!!

  • @prunejuice3796
    @prunejuice3796 6 лет назад +4

    What a legend!

  • @patrickhedman4489
    @patrickhedman4489 6 лет назад +1

    What a legend!! He should get a million dollar a wave!!! Especially those waves he's surfing!!!WOW!!! Woooohoooooo

  • @roymoneyhun2838
    @roymoneyhun2838 Год назад

    Good on ya, Laurie. Hope you're doing well. All the best you and your family.

  • @richardgrant9367
    @richardgrant9367 Год назад

    Your a real waterman and a gentleman 🤙🏽

  • @clarkewi
    @clarkewi 5 лет назад +1

    Great surfer. Really stepped out.

  • @BaldwinBay
    @BaldwinBay 4 года назад +1

    Always good to develop a few skills in life. But never give up following your dream.

  • @KandMe1
    @KandMe1 4 года назад

    This is a really Cool story. Good to hear Laurie talk about his experience and the love for surfing comes through. Oh yeah I should add the footage on this vid the waves are just glorious raw power and grace. thank you for this.

  • @SuperHamlet666
    @SuperHamlet666 6 лет назад +65

    Nobody buys surf brands clothes anymore because they are stuck in the 2000's refusing to let go of what once was and failing to keep up with the now. Go into a billabong store and all you see is baggy straight cut jeans, lame t shirts, oakley sunglasses and dc shoes.

    • @KevinHallSurfing
      @KevinHallSurfing 6 лет назад +16

      Absolutely love my baggy straight cuts. Latest brand spankers Billabong boot jeans cost me a whopping $20 at a local op shop! But ... the original price tag of $100 was at least better than Levis 501 SKINNY IN BLUE at $160. They might be stuck in a certain "fashion" but no surfer worth their salt wears skin tight jeans. Too hard to get off if the surf's pumping. Fine for clubbing and there are stores for that, but these are "surf Shops" not hipster havens ... wait ... I could be wrong? 😂😂😂

    • @SuperHamlet666
      @SuperHamlet666 6 лет назад +1

      Bro Australia is the biggest consumer of clothes in the world per capita so if they aren't making money is because their clothes suck.

    • @greatfratsby2510
      @greatfratsby2510 6 лет назад +3

      $160 for Levis? Brah you're getting bent over a fuckin barrel. I pay like $40 for mine on amazon.

    • @frolilapume2263
      @frolilapume2263 6 лет назад +3

      Totally agree with SuperHamlet666, they're fucking stuck at the 2000's. It doesn't need to be all skinny jeans, there are millions different types of clothes selling well nowadays, you gotta adapt if you wanna sell. Adidas created 'Adidas Y-3', they go to fashion weeks around the world and sell a concept. And that concept also helps to sell their more ordinary stuff, that they still make. So relax, surf brands wouldn't disappoint their main consumer that still like their baggy straight cut jeans and lame T-shirts. What would happen is that you would see a lot more stylish pro surfers, and non-surfers buying surf clothes again.

    • @KevinHallSurfing
      @KevinHallSurfing 6 лет назад

      GreatFratsby
      Yep welcome to 'straya mate. Grossly inflated prices. Why I shop Amazon USA as Amazon AU can be ridiculous. 😟🤔
      *Aust* - www.amazon.com.au/Levis-Mens-Regular-Jeans-Blue/dp/B007TI205O is AUD $173 or USD $125 ... bent over a barrel and some. 🙃
      *USA* - www.amazon.com/Levis-Mens-Regular-Jeans-Blue/dp/B007TI205O is USD $65

  • @stoneworx09
    @stoneworx09 5 лет назад

    without mentioning any names , for a long time and today just the same , it helps having your rich parents support to stay on the tour .

  • @rhonduh
    @rhonduh 4 года назад

    Dude he is amazing! Prayers to him and his family to continue to be happy and do whatever it is that makes them happy 😉

  • @bigearedmouse17
    @bigearedmouse17 6 лет назад +2

    If Surfers copyrighted their performance in some way, ie, "If you film me you pay me" Would that mean they would not need sponsorship ?

  • @pigdapug5417
    @pigdapug5417 4 года назад +5

    Im a 12 year old girl and it is my dream to surf a wave like this. My parents ont let me but ivd been wishing for so long that when im 16 im aloud to!

  • @Old_Sod
    @Old_Sod 6 лет назад +2

    Love the Northshore reference in the title of the video

  • @berniehiggins3537
    @berniehiggins3537 5 лет назад

    Best commercial ever!

  • @chrisor187
    @chrisor187 4 года назад

    he has a very good soul!

  • @DD-eb1bi
    @DD-eb1bi 4 года назад

    This guys freaking awesome!

  • @tomgrove8491
    @tomgrove8491 4 года назад

    What a lovely bloke

  • @rodtemplar258
    @rodtemplar258 5 лет назад +1

    great story

  • @brucelee-wo5ge
    @brucelee-wo5ge 4 года назад

    Excellent profile of a damn fine human being!

  • @jerygregorson4861
    @jerygregorson4861 4 года назад

    That last wave is crazy, and in figi!. Perfect glassy huge swell and he sits in that huge barrel like it's nothing.

  • @73gmiller
    @73gmiller 5 лет назад

    My worst wipeout was a backside cover up, deep. I saw my line, went high on the wave. It sucked me up and over, slamming me on the shallow bottom.
    I'm surprised I didn't break my neck.

  • @greje656
    @greje656 4 года назад

    Super humble guy

  • @lamontdj3968
    @lamontdj3968 6 лет назад

    What a humble guy ... actually tiling is a pretty cool occupation and you are creating something for someone. Maybe his motto could be "Go hard AND go home" ...

  • @Cowicide
    @Cowicide 6 лет назад +3

    Surfing started in the counter-culture and then morphed into everything I hated. Surfers rode waves for the thrill, comradery and rebel spirit of it. Once it became more like sold-out NFL mainstream crap with cheerleaders on the sidelines, money and sponsors pumped into it - the surf culture suffered in my opinion.
    I'm glad to see surfing being forced back to its roots where it belongs. Save the conformist, sponsor-emblazoned ridiculousness for NASCAR, the NFL and shit. I do think there'll be a huge resurgence of surfing as a sport once there's more large wave pools (see Kelly Slater's) across the country, but ocean surfing will still be different I hope and not as corrupted and impure as so many other sports are.

  • @e3dave744
    @e3dave744 5 лет назад

    Wow,, cloudbreak is beautiful .

  • @jilliannewell8731
    @jilliannewell8731 6 лет назад +1

    Who else thought this was gonna be a tragic crash story not a bunch of surfers whining they aren’t paid as much anymore

  • @120wphwavesperhour4
    @120wphwavesperhour4 4 года назад +1

    Mullaghmore in Ireland has waves just as epic...

  • @adambamf9365
    @adambamf9365 6 лет назад +3

    1:38 thats pure charge

  • @gc99289
    @gc99289 6 лет назад

    1) Surfing lessons part time from World Class Big Wave Surfer
    2) Sales spokesperson for new surf brands
    3) Flip jeskis, paddleboards, windsurf boards and smaller boats for profit- someone comes to buy shit from you and you tell them as a pro big wave surfer you'd recommend this, that's a unique sales pitch
    4) Motivation speaker- very few people have balls to go out miles out to ride mountains of water
    5) Generate social media presence, obviously guy has some name recognition and well respected
    6) Write a book and get your website with blog/forum that you can later monetize
    It's not rocket science to make a living in Western world. There's a lot of money to go around, you just have to reach out and take it.

    • @MsJubjubbird
      @MsJubjubbird 5 дней назад

      As they said, they don't necessarily have the skillset. These guys were probably pulled out of school so they could surf full time. Marketing your company, liaising with customers, writing material, public speaking and managing books are not skills pro athletes often have

  • @whitecloud3356
    @whitecloud3356 10 месяцев назад

    Super mad respect 🙏 🎉

  • @Galemor1
    @Galemor1 4 года назад

    Came here to learn about the dangers of waves... That's not the kind of wave I was thinking about.

  • @sirql8
    @sirql8 5 лет назад +1

    good on you, mate.

  • @micpotato8158
    @micpotato8158 6 лет назад +1

    Top bloke ..enough said

  • @gary467
    @gary467 4 года назад

    My opinion, Surf lost its soul sometime in the late 80s early 90s the real surfer was trunks , board, wax, dreams, today there isn't a place that hasn't been surfed, jet ski hellga, air pocket vest, breathing apparatus, internet, the real Daddy O's were a bread apart, sculpted, dauntless, refined, they broke down the door for what is today's surfer, but hats off to all surfers, nothing last forever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • @rodneysanders5092
    @rodneysanders5092 4 года назад +2

    Man I’d live to see him on a big wave agin

  • @kaizy1
    @kaizy1 6 лет назад +1

    how much revenue did he generate for billabong? he had a good run. never won a big comp. never known beyond core surfers.

  • @clarkewi
    @clarkewi 6 лет назад +1

    Hell man extraordinaire.

  • @consciousobserver629
    @consciousobserver629 5 лет назад +3

    Whenever I see footage that looks like 0:34 I get nervous. Lol

  • @dlvox5222
    @dlvox5222 4 года назад

    Nice video. I am friends with quite a few athletes as is my son in many different sports (baseball, golf, basketball, etc.). It’s very rare to be in a position to monetize/establish a career in any sport. It’s a combination of luck and timing (mainly because at that level everyone is talented).

  • @realbudgiesmugglertwohatsb2611
    @realbudgiesmugglertwohatsb2611 4 года назад

    Reminds me of Greg Long a really cool human being all good energy to you Laurie...

  • @mghalichi
    @mghalichi 4 года назад

    Laurie if you read this, consider this: start a RUclips channel. Many people have found a way to get paid be it a podcast or Vlog by sharing content people want to see. If the industry doesn't want to pay you, be your own brand and company.

  • @grantsewell782
    @grantsewell782 4 года назад

    Good Aussie Legend full on

  • @patrickbutler87
    @patrickbutler87 6 лет назад

    Legend.

  • @jweeze1
    @jweeze1 5 лет назад

    The quote is “when the wave breaks here, don’t be there.”

    • @JawnLive
      @JawnLive 5 лет назад

      i mean it works either way around.

  • @JGunit
    @JGunit 4 года назад

    Money can't buy happiness, it can only rent it for a while.

  • @lisaschuster9187
    @lisaschuster9187 4 года назад

    Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer this. Do people who are paid to be young, like models and hip hop stars and athletes - everyone who peaks way early in life - do they have mentors to tell them to save up while the big money is coming in? Youth doesn’t age well, but part of being young is not knowing that!

  • @hoezpetty3465
    @hoezpetty3465 4 года назад +1

    It’s 3AM why am I watching this

  • @DrLove-cy4np
    @DrLove-cy4np 4 года назад +1

    This guy wasn't really a soul surfer. Chandler would be pissed.

  • @baddazzgarage2953
    @baddazzgarage2953 6 лет назад +43

    So your telling me all these huge waves being surfed that i watch are being surfed by tilers?? What a joke competition surfing is good and all but most people will click on the big stuff! And there not getting paid!!!! Figure that out! Start a youtube channel of your own with exclusive content of you surfing then see if companies get involved!!! Good ozzie battler!!!

    • @FriendOfN0ne
      @FriendOfN0ne 6 лет назад +1

      Part of the problem is the rarity of the swells needed for surfable big wave conditions and their remote locations, neither being conducive to media. Cape Fear didn't even run this year after it was called on because there just weren't any swells during the month-long wait period.

    • @jamesdeininger3759
      @jamesdeininger3759 6 лет назад

      I get what you’re saying, but how many Big Surf comps have you ever attended? People just aren’t interested in the sport to the degree where it earns enough money for people to live off of it.

    • @trumpetmano
      @trumpetmano 6 лет назад

      Surfing is just like being a musician-WE ALL HAVE SECOND JOBS. I have been a professional trumpet player all my life, But I know Carpentry, Insurance, Car Rental, Hotel and Banquet work as well...

    • @baddazzgarage2953
      @baddazzgarage2953 6 лет назад +1

      @@trumpetmano im a drummer of 30 years and played gigs for fun so i get your point!!! But these big wave boys should be earning big coin period!! Some of the most talented athletes on earth and highest risk takers!! To eat sand of these waves is a serious skill to survive even more so than actually riding the wave!! I did a bit of surfing in my time these guys are freaks!!! Such a shame they dont get paid accordingly!!!

  • @s.roberts3839
    @s.roberts3839 6 лет назад

    Wooooooooooooooooooo yeahhhh man🤘👍🇦🇺

  • @kreepykrawly8866
    @kreepykrawly8866 4 года назад

    Great vid