I thought I was the only nutjob that solders big wire connectors. And I feel your pain about the shrink tubing ; ) I dont know how many itimes i have forgotten it before making the connection. Really like your wiring install. Well planned and executed. Thank you.
I would like to suggest crimping the lugs first, then solder. Why, well if for some reason you are doing a heavy pull with winch the winch or trying to jump start a vehicle that is drawing a crap load of current, and the cables heat up, it can melt the solder right out of the lugs. No solder means bad connection and no more power or even worse a bad connection that can create a fire. One other suggestion would be to run cables outside under vehicle so just in case they do burn for some reason, you can deal with them easier outside than inside (if you know what I mean). I love soldering all my wires and cables too. Thanks for the video!
First of all, crimp is the auto and military standard, NOT SOLDER. Solder will heat cycle the copper making it brittle, same as welding which is why some critical welds have to be annealed. In auto or military use under high vibration and impact, a brittle wiring connection is a show stopper in the field, and when repairs are done, use of high disconnect repetition terminals are also necessary - not the OEM junk we see typically under the hood. With 12VDC, the run of the cable is almost more important than the final amp load - resistance increases over distance and voltage drop is the real enemy. There's only 12 volts - lose one getting thru 15 feet of cable and you are already behind the curve. It's why high output driving lights run relays to shorten the run from source to light - don't include all the current going back and forth to the switch and you improve the results. Same with winches and inverters, especially off road in 4WD or RV - where a wire run can really get long. My rear 2500 pull winch came with 10 ga wire, but to get power from the front of the truck, 6 ga would be better - preserving a volt not lost from resistance. The 9500 pull front winch is getting 00 multistrand welding cable - and those lugs will be crimped with a mechanical hammer crimper. The reason is that those connections require a 1200-1500 pound pull out to withstand a decade of road pounding and condensation over wet spring and winters. Once you Use A Chart to Size Cable to Prevent Voltage Drop Over That Run, then you fabricate and install, looking for any rubbing points and clamping down the cable at every opportunity. I once ran a trunk mount battery in my 66 Mustang weaving the 00 cable thru the unibody and delivering it to the solenoid mounted across from the starter - not up by the radiator. As you go, give thought to what else you can relocate to shorten wire runs and improve the voltage delivery. That alone saved 30" of cable expense and voltage drop. Using the correct rated quick disconnects is a great way to do it, as they are much more affordable now and with inexpensive hammer crimpers setting them to the correct pullout, they won't fail. There are videos online showing how those work and also comparing them to soldering - which is not auto or military rated.
So when it comes to winches fuses and breakers are usually the failure point. Also the amp rating for the fuse would have to be high enough that the battery would toast when the fuse or breaker did. What I do recommend though is a high rated constant solenoid like a golf cart solenoid so it can be disconnected near the battery. I’m going to be using the power back there for multiple things or else this is the route I would have gone.
I installed a 50amp breaker and a manual disconnect/selector at the battery on my 4Runner's auxiliary front/rear plug-ins. I drive through water often.... Nice video... 👍
I’d be concerned about the live studs on the PD block. In the case of a LH rear collision, those studs are going to earth out on the body and spark, most vehicles have a fuel filler in the quarter panel. The high-current solenoid is a good idea. Solenoids relays are getting ridiculously cheap, cheaper than simple isolation switches in some markets. This also applies to front mounted winches, which are usually in the crumple zone of a front end collision. Modern cars have a pyrotechnic battery link connected to the SRS system. In the case of a collision, the battery cable will fail.
Ok you have to many connections winch power is ran under the jeep if you need that much aux power inside the jeep you are going to need a Flux capacitor small nuclear reactor I have a lot of experience in running winches to the back and high power stereo systems your ground wire should run back to battery no ground on vehicle you can burn up stuff in your jeep ask me I touched my cabin control computer
I thought I was the only nutjob that solders big wire connectors. And I feel your pain about the shrink tubing ; ) I dont know how many itimes i have forgotten it before making the connection. Really like your wiring install. Well planned and executed. Thank you.
I would like to suggest crimping the lugs first, then solder. Why, well if for some reason you are doing a heavy pull with winch the winch or trying to jump start a vehicle that is drawing a crap load of current, and the cables heat up, it can melt the solder right out of the lugs. No solder means bad connection and no more power or even worse a bad connection that can create a fire. One other suggestion would be to run cables outside under vehicle so just in case they do burn for some reason, you can deal with them easier outside than inside (if you know what I mean). I love soldering all my wires and cables too. Thanks for the video!
Its been awhile now how is that wire and winch working out I'm about to do this project but confused on the wire gauge.
First of all, crimp is the auto and military standard, NOT SOLDER. Solder will heat cycle the copper making it brittle, same as welding which is why some critical welds have to be annealed. In auto or military use under high vibration and impact, a brittle wiring connection is a show stopper in the field, and when repairs are done, use of high disconnect repetition terminals are also necessary - not the OEM junk we see typically under the hood.
With 12VDC, the run of the cable is almost more important than the final amp load - resistance increases over distance and voltage drop is the real enemy. There's only 12 volts - lose one getting thru 15 feet of cable and you are already behind the curve. It's why high output driving lights run relays to shorten the run from source to light - don't include all the current going back and forth to the switch and you improve the results. Same with winches and inverters, especially off road in 4WD or RV - where a wire run can really get long. My rear 2500 pull winch came with 10 ga wire, but to get power from the front of the truck, 6 ga would be better - preserving a volt not lost from resistance. The 9500 pull front winch is getting 00 multistrand welding cable - and those lugs will be crimped with a mechanical hammer crimper. The reason is that those connections require a 1200-1500 pound pull out to withstand a decade of road pounding and condensation over wet spring and winters.
Once you Use A Chart to Size Cable to Prevent Voltage Drop Over That Run, then you fabricate and install, looking for any rubbing points and clamping down the cable at every opportunity. I once ran a trunk mount battery in my 66 Mustang weaving the 00 cable thru the unibody and delivering it to the solenoid mounted across from the starter - not up by the radiator. As you go, give thought to what else you can relocate to shorten wire runs and improve the voltage delivery. That alone saved 30" of cable expense and voltage drop.
Using the correct rated quick disconnects is a great way to do it, as they are much more affordable now and with inexpensive hammer crimpers setting them to the correct pullout, they won't fail. There are videos online showing how those work and also comparing them to soldering - which is not auto or military rated.
Are you gonna do a video on your hitch winch setup?
Maybe sometime in the future.
No fuse or breaker? Great video, going to rig up something similar on my XJ. I'd like to wire in a breaker however.
So when it comes to winches fuses and breakers are usually the failure point. Also the amp rating for the fuse would have to be high enough that the battery would toast when the fuse or breaker did. What I do recommend though is a high rated constant solenoid like a golf cart solenoid so it can be disconnected near the battery. I’m going to be using the power back there for multiple things or else this is the route I would have gone.
I installed a 50amp breaker and a manual disconnect/selector at the battery on my 4Runner's auxiliary front/rear plug-ins. I drive through water often.... Nice video... 👍
I’d be concerned about the live studs on the PD block. In the case of a LH rear collision, those studs are going to earth out on the body and spark, most vehicles have a fuel filler in the quarter panel.
The high-current solenoid is a good idea. Solenoids relays are getting ridiculously cheap, cheaper than simple isolation switches in some markets.
This also applies to front mounted winches, which are usually in the crumple zone of a front end collision.
Modern cars have a pyrotechnic battery link connected to the SRS system. In the case of a collision, the battery cable will fail.
Great mod!
Is that the harbor freight winch mount also?
Yes it is.
I wanna know how you made the jumper cables
Get a nice long set and cut them in the middle. Add a plug to each one and now you’ve got 2 sets.
Ok you have to many connections winch power is ran under the jeep if you need that much aux power inside the jeep you are going to need a Flux capacitor small nuclear reactor I have a lot of experience in running winches to the back and high power stereo systems your ground wire should run back to battery no ground on vehicle you can burn up stuff in your jeep ask me I touched my cabin control computer
But what gauge wire are you using your not answering any questions?
#2 Wire
How long was the cable ?
I’m not sure.
Why no fuse...
Why such a thin cable...
Why a distribution block...
Is this a "how not to" video