Wiring an external battery coil to your engine
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Battery Ignition using external coil. How to properly connect this type of coil to your engine. Sometimes substituted for a failed Magneto coil ignition system.
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The coil creates spark when the points OPEN, not close. When the circuit is closed, the coil creates a strong magnetic field. When the points open, the field collapses, with electrons going into the secondary winding and discharging across the spark plug gap.
45von is correct. The secondary coil, inside the coil on battery ignition systems, is what actually makes the spark. It can only do so when the points are open. When the points are closed, both the primary coil inside the coil and the condenser (which is really a battery) receive current. When the points open, the rapid loss of this charge to the primary coil windings induces a large voltage in the secondary coil winding, That is the source of the spark that ignites fuel. The condenser sends its charge along to the primary windings as well. Happily, the condenser also prevents the arc that would otherwise happen when the points close again so they don't burn-up rapidly.
You're correct on both counts. It would replace a bad magneto if a suitable stock replacement isn't available and is used on engines like the Kohler shown that don't have a magneto ignition system. Hope all is well my Friend! Cheers!
I'm glad your question was answered! Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!!
Zippo, I have a simplicity 3414 with a B&S engine, the magneto is bad , I'm unable to find a replacement, I'm Ethier going to have to go electronic ignition or
Go to the battery coil ignition like a Kohler, if I go battery coil ignition how would my ignition switch work, because right now that wire is a ground to kill the engine, and it would have to be a hot that would go dead to kill the engine then. Or Would I just be better off going electronic and then I would not have to rewire the hole tractor?
Providing you are using a small engine Coil, the old Condenser will be fine. If using an Automotive Coil, you will need an in line resistor or you will burn up the automotive coils quickly. Hope this helps! Cheers!!
In the commentary from 0.55 to 1.15 min the description is wrong , In the external battery powered coil current is flowing through the coil when the points are Closed creating a magnetic field from the primary winding in the coil that surrounds the secondary , ( high tension ) winding , as the engine rotates to the correct position to fire , the points then Open.!! The current flowing in the primary ceases and the magnetic field collapses , that is where the condenser comes into play , it reduces the arc when the points break and ensures a faster collapse of the primary field
The collapsing field induces a high voltage in the Secondary coil which is Conducted by the High Tension lead to the spark plug
I have a panzer with a Kohler motor. It ran all summer, and two days ago no go. If I hold the spark plug wire, not even a tickle. I put new points, 18 gap, new coil and condenser, no go, I'm stuck HELP. I tested the coil and it shocked the crap out of me so I guess that is good.
Just got a wheelhorse with a k series Kohler 12 hp and no spark. Condenser thing is on plus side with another wire going to switch. Update. I reversed wires and tractor fired right up.
Good can you explain this wiring in car ignition system as well.
Just what I needed because I haven't worked on an old engine like this one in a long time. I have a rectangular-shaped box between the postive post on the coil and my battery. What is it?
Thanks Zip ; With this video I was able wire my 16 HP Briggs and get it running . This is just one of your VERY helpful videos that I will rely on and enjoy . Hey, I am even looking at the grip 6 belts. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Don't forget to use my 20% discount code!!!! It's ZIPPO20. So far, 52 people have taken advantage of the discount. Be #53!! They're Awesome buckles and belts for sure. And of course, I'm very glad this video helped you get your problematic Briggs back up and running. Cheers from the Zippo Nation! Zip~
In most cases, yes, you can use most any small engine condenser in place of one that is suspected to be bad.
Thank you buddy, I appreciate your time and kindness!
Good video. On a side note make sure that you check whether your vehicle is negative ground or positive ground, recently bought an old British car from 1960 and it's a positive ground but there are no markings anywhere to say that.
It's always a good practice to note where the positive cable goes on a new to you vehicle. Some earlier Lincolns are also positive ground. Good info to pass along. Thanks Exogator! Zip~
ZippoVarga like I said mine had no description of what the cables are, both have universal strap terminals on them, only reason I noticed was after poking around with the dizzy cap off gapping the contacts, then hand cranking the motor to check(it's that old that it has a hand crank still) and when putting it back in I noticed the coil was wired with positive to the cap and negative to the battery.
Good Catch Exo! Most wouldn't notice that. Zip~
Biggest tip in this video, notice how he has mounted his coil with a mounting band away from his carburetor.. Friends, do youself a favor and do the same.
Thank you ZIPPO!!!!!! This video was a life saver. You should make some play lists. Like wiring and so on. Thank man.
+B grizz Thanks for the tip Grizz. My videos are automatically grouped by content with other like videos in playlists through a program, but I can create separate playlists that are only of my videos. The only thing standing in my way of doing that right now is it's my busy season, but I will see about helping out with some playlists when time allows. Thanks again! Zip~ Glad the video helped!
thanks, i might try that on my wisconsin..no spark, points frozen, i cleaned it up ,still nothing..a bat.& ext. coil is awsome idea
ok hears a question i have just acquired a quod ., scooter engine . & it got a feu problems with the waring infant it cut to bit's & i think it time to rethink the system & revert to fitng points . here's a quick thought given it as a place where the trigger coil fits as a pace of rased steel would this lift the points sufficient to open the points & fier the coil ? it 0ne mill thik prap's tow. i supo's a spot of weld may lift the pins more . but i would prefer not to wel on the fly wheel. the stream reman as the ratified garger for the battery . Praps you could answer this question .
Great Video, You have the best Video to explain the right way to connect the Coil to the points and condenser. One thing in your statement you first stated Capacitor for the Condenser then changed the wording to Condenser. You are Right the first time most people doesn't know the Condenser is a Small Capacitor. It build a electrical Charge and make the spark on the points hotter. Great Video Plus AAAAA++++++.
Thanks much for the props Waymon! I tend to use the words most are familiar with and yep...it's a small capacitor that the world market dubbed the "Condenser". The same holds true for motor oil. They CALL it Detergent Oil, but there is no actual Detergent in it. It has a variety of chemicals designed to hold the contaminants in suspension so they'll pass through a filtering media like oil filter or cartridge. When talking small engines without an oil filter, you don't want to use Detergent oils because the contaminants are not being captured by a filter and are instead, being carried throughout the crank case where they can do harm to bearings, bushings, journals etc. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Very Good Article.
So the coil has to bolted to the block also saying it is grounded to
No, it doesn't have to ground to the engine, but the Condenser will need grounded. The coil is positive battery only. The band is just to secure it with any means necessary. Zip~
So the Positive side of the coil goes directly to the battery or to the ignition post on the key switch?.... I'm working on an old Ford/Jacobson with a K341 and the wiring harness is a mess and the original ignition switch was faulty when I purchased the tractor. I had to running last year for the summer mower season by jumping the solenoid but this year I wanted to install an ignition switch and build a new wiring harness. The original ignition switch had 5 terminals and the new one has 4 terminals/posts. Start, ignition battery and accessories. I was thinking the positive side of the coil should go to the Ignition post on the switch?....Am I wrong?.
So long as the key switch has + battery power when switched on to one of the terminals, you can connect the coil there for sure. Zip~
Zippo if if my coil isn't connected right with the battery with grounded like you said and what would that cause popping in the engine like if I could hear like a popping sound coming out of the exhaust down in the bottom of the engine and it's a 1950 Ford car
The intermittent popping you speak of is usually points or ignition related at the distributor. It can be a dirty spark plug, bad plug wire that is arcing somewhere or the condenser could be going bad which would cause the points to visibly spark and cause the popping you describe. If your engine is still using the original points operated distributor then those are the things to check. If you've got an aftermarket electronic spark ignition then with the engine running, listen closely for a sharp click under the hood. This would be the faulty plug wire or other component arcing to ground intermittently. The easiest way to locate these types of faults is to start the engine and in as dark a place as you can find, just do a visual under the hood. You're looking for a strobing blue or yellow flash. When you find that, that is your problem. If nothing is seen or heard, typically doing a full tuneup will help or rid you of the ignition misfire. Zip~
I’ve looked a long time for this video. I borrowed the coil on my mgb and I’m trying to wire it back in
I hope it's helpful! Zip~
Negitive coil w cond to points THEN be sure you have a GROUND wire from ADVANCE plate to dist cast. Mine didnt have one Nowwith extra ground from vac adv stud to battry no more Goast Fire. No missin or skippen.Needed felpro to lift dist to get time right .the gaskets FAT.
I bought a 74 Dodge with a 318 with a "crank but no spark" scenario. I have been replacing everything in the ignition system, and still have no spark. Today I realized that the last owner had run the external capacitor/condensor (whats the difference?) from the Coil's "+" terminal and then to a ground bolt. I removed the external capacitor/condensor and installed a new coil, and thought that would solve the problem. But still no spark. Would the mistake of having the capacitor run to the Coil "+" terminal have been the reason for no spark?
Capacitors are condensers. Condensers are old pre-solid-state-device names for caps.
I have a case 300 we are trying to run. It had gas but no spark . There's power running to the coil but from there on, no more power
It sounds like the coil it self is bad Ricardo.
There is only 1 wire coming from my points box. The condenser and points seem to be on the same wire. How can it go 2 different places on the coil?
Where exactly is your negative battery cable grounded to? I am having trouble getting my Kohler engine just like yours grounded.
I typically run a ground to the engine block. Anywhere on the block should be fine so long as you clear any paint from the access point.
Hi Steven. Kohlers equipped with an alternator/stator must also have a regulator/rectifier in order to be able to run without a battery. Don't connect the alternator/stator directly to the coil. Another option is, if you have room, add a pulley flywheel cover and a starter generator with a regulator like is shown on my Kohler. I hope this helps!
thanks so much zippo. I may use a starter generator later on in the future but for now i have just left it alone. cause im going to use it for a snowplow in the winter i will just bring the battery in the house until i have to use it. thank you zippo
What if u don't have points condser mine just has stator wires coming out under flywheel
Then it sounds like you've got a solid state ignition system. Zip~
Can you ground out the coil on the negative side I would assume not because the coil is grounded on the case right
No. The negative post on a coil isn't for negative or ground, the + is for the battery input and the - goes to the points. The grounding happens on the case of the unit when it's mounted. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you I figured it out I didn't have ohms on the coils I was using, the couple coils I used only had .8 ohms and 1.7ohms and I found that 2.8-3 ohms works the best for my application thank you
I did this to a friends b110 that had a bad coil / mag. Works great. So when my b10 started symptoms of losing spark when got, I bought a coil and set it up the same way. I cannot get it to spark. Points are new. I have swapped coil and condenser with ones of a running tractor so I know they're not bad. Yes I have 12 volts to the coil when the switch is on.
My only guess is that either the gap isn't quite right on the points or the cam bump for closing the points is worn to the point where it is no longer effective. If the original coil is still in place, try installing a Nova II points eliminator in place of the points. This will not work with the battery ignition coil though. Those are my thoughts. Zip~
Thanks zip. I did try adjusting the points both ways. Once in a while I would get a brief spark. I think ultimately I'm going to pull the engine and install a new Mag / coil then also add a nova 2 and it should be reliable for a long time.
first time I ever heard that explained. great job
Glad you liked it!
I have a wiring mess on a K321 . The previous owner had the condenser and the battery power on the same terminal on the coil. Had a real weak spark. And for some reason the starter is only getting 5 V even though I have 12 at the starting solenoid
Isolate the engine from the implement or mower you are working on (bypass all the piece of equipment's wiring from the engine. Then wire just the engine with a battery. Ground the block with the negative. Run a jump wire to the Coil (+ from the battery +) then the "-" negative goes from the coil to the points with the Condenser attached to the "-". Then, run a heavy cable (wire) to the starter lug bolt. When you're ready to check spark and the starters performance, touch the heavy cable from the starter to the + terminal of the battery. At this point you should have good spark (pending the condition of the points) and the starter should get the full benefit of the battery. Your issues are all too common unfortunately. It's best to go from the engine to the rest of the wiring harness. Find a Wiring Diagram on line to help guide you. Zip~
Thank you! I hope it helps someone out of a bad spot!
Thx brother! Tested my + resp -side of the coil…did not have 12 volts…car dont start.’..can i jumpwire direct from battery +?the coil is healthy, interchanged the coil with another car, and the coil is ok ! I just want the car started tomorrow as a quick fix to move the car.’..
Have a Clark forklift that I need to troubleshoot coil and distributer cap . Itt doesn't have points it has a little black box with two wires coming out of distributer where do they go on the coil. I have hot on positive and when I turn key I have hot on negative but nothing coming out of coil. How do I wire it correctly. Please help
I have an lj80 and the condenser is on the distributor,
is the ignition the same as the points box?
do i connect the negative to the condenser even though it is on the distributor?
and is the ignition on a relay which connects the positive to the coil?
so the main coil wire goes to the distributor is that the only wire that goes across because the spark plugs are grounded?
i hope you understand and can help thanks?
i don't realy know what i'm doing
Thanks that's a really informative lesson I can start working on my sl100 ignition system tomorrow
Good luck!
Very true and great advice! Thanks for your input. I hope others read comments to learn of this addition if using an automotive coil. Again, thanks much!! Cheers!
Hi sir im have a question if how to fix ignition coil to distributor susuki multicab 6cylinder thanks
hello there , idd like to say thankyou for the video , i not used to these old systems and i have a vintage 1950`s - mid 1960`s 30 ft boom Forklift to get running and get home , and it has lost its spark , i had changed coil thinking it was that , but the guy i got it from had messed with it and he too could got get spark, it turns out booth of us has it Wired wrong , i will go back to it and try to wire it right following what u said on this post , The way it is wired right now ( wrong ) the points on the + and the other - side is grounded , so this could be why.
Will wire a red wire on the + side directly to the battery , and on the negative side will stick that on the points and condenser side. and try that.
That should give you spark providing the points are in good repair Chris. Best of luck! Zip~
Very good explanation! Can you pls explain the two wire type comdensor wiring? I would really appreciate.(it seems the two wire type has both a positive and earth wire...)
While the vehicle is running I have around 13.45 volts going into the coil and around 6+ coming out of it into the distributor. Is that how it should be? If not , is my coil bad? Its new.
I know this is old video but if you run your coil like this can you use the nova 2 to get rid of the point and if so would you still need a condenser?
The Nova II is not compatible with external Coil ignition. It's to be used with a Magneto type ignition system.
Is there a option for something like this that you know of that works for the external coil
I have a maruti 4piston and it has a misfire..I check the spark at the plugs it look orange in colour and the coil heating up now..what can be the problem
You're the best of the best of the Whole Wide West. Thank you. You've explained it well.
I have a question about the condenser. Using a test light With the ignition switch on Is the positive side of the coil supposed to be hot?
Both sides of the coil are actually "hot" when the coil fires. The "-" negative symbol is simply the wire going from the coil to the points. So, with the key switch on, the coil will be hot going to it and coming from the negative side when the points close. The instant the points release, the stored energy in the condenser it released and the spark plug fires. Zip~
How does it work with a briggs and stratton 19d. Cuz points and condenser are both togeather. No videos on yt explaining this
hi how do you see if there is fire on the coil i swinged the motor but there no spark coming from the coil . I checked the points there is a spark . do i need a new coil or what can it be .
I have to power on the wires the go to the coil. Is that normal? Or what could it be?
Yes....if this is similar to your ignition set up, the Plus side of the battery must be connected to the Plus on the coil. Zip~
What would cause my 1990 dodge d250 with the 318 to lose spark right after I fire it up it will idle for a few seconds than shut off and I'll have fuel but no spark
Check for a proper ground to the coil and ignition switch. Sometimes terminals get corroded and need cleaned. So go over all of the ignition system wires one at a time and clean them then add a dab of dielectric grease to help prevent future failures. With the key switch, there is a pigtail (plug) at the base of the steering column that the key switch wiring goes through. Disconnect and reconnect the plugs to help clean them, but don't use dielectric grease on these because it can breach connections and cause more problems than it solves. Good Luck! Zip~
Ballast resistor
I HAD AN IDEA OF MY QWN TO DO THIS , BUT WASN'T SURE HOW TO DO IT. THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO. THE PRICE OF AN O.E. COIL IS OVER 100.00 AND I HAVE A MULCHER THAT NEEDS A COIL, BUT NOT ONE FOR THAT PRICE
How would this work if I got an electronic ignition and cut out the points setup?
It wouldn't.
@@ZippoVarga I don't understand. If a electronic ignition device replaces the points why wouldn't an external coil work?
HI, I have searched far and wide for the answer to two simple questions:
(1)Is the internal secondary wire connected to the "+" or the "-" terminal of the ignition coil?
(2) In which directions are the two coils wound, say, looking down at the top of the ignition coil? Also are they wound in the same or opposite directions?
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS RARE VIDEO!
nationalmaglab.org/education/magnet-academy/watch-play/interactive/ignition-coil
Do I need to install the condenser that came with my coil if there is already
one in the points box?
Travis Matthews any luck.
It depends on the engine requirements. Typically, one condenser is all that's needed. Zip~
Question I have a kohler k181 it runs for not even a min and stops can not Rev it up nothing is the condenser to be grounded to the motor is that why motor will not run
I have a wheel horse gt 14 with a kohler k 321 and it had electric ignition when I got it and no key ignition and I bought one for it but I don’t want to use lights or accessories so do I need the magneto? I have to check if the stator is there
Does that way work for a positive negative vehicle
if the condensor is bad can it be replaced by any old garden tractor condensor or does it need to be specific to that model engine?thanks for your time.
Thanks! I had intended on making this video some time back and it slipped my mind. I've got a slight case of "CRS" lol. Cheers!
Once I give positive current to ➕ of coil,
Negative of coil get positive current too..
How can ?
And plugs don't get current too
I'm working on a sa 200 lincoln welder I can't get it to start could show a video
if you're using a regular automotive coil, you should use a ballast resistor as well, or the coil will run hot and won't last as long.
I have the same engine on my John Deere 212 mower tractor can I use Msd coil blaster 2 and upgrade the condenser to 20hp
Question… I have ‘69 Lincoln mark III with A 460 engine. It has a capacitor/condenser on the outside of the coil just like the one in your video. There is also a condenser in the distributor with the points. Should there be 2?
This is a question best answered by a knowledgeable Ford Mechanic. I don't know the requirements. Zip~
I have a 66 SS-10 I got a new 12v battery in it and I noticed my existing ignition coil started leaking oil and was extremely hot. I disconnected the neg battery terminal and it cooled off and stopped leaking. Seems that it could possible be a 6v coil? The coil does look aged and it actually still works now even after leaking oil. Im expecting it will fail at some point. My plan is to purchase a new 12v coil from the auto store but I want to know why this existing one started melting down and spewing oil after 2 hours connected. Any input?
I had a kohler motor with the generator starter on it it ran good
What is the purpose of the condenser? I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger that won’t start. The condenser wire is frail.
The Condenser serves as a charge storage device, much like a Capacitor and they are prone to going bad and inexpensive to replace. Zip~
I have 12 volts on positive side. I only have 6 volts on negative side Going to my points and six votes going to my spark plug. I do not have any spark going to my spark plug. Can you help me please.
You've got a 6V coil. Either purchase a 12V coil or install a resistor.
Omg I just realised my car is positive ground that's why it didnt work would it be the positive hooked to the ground or negative from battery wire also comes from generator that's grounded with the positive would that go to the positive or negative on coil
This is a set up for tractor mower only?
Hey zippo , do you have a video on how to bench test an external coil. I have a Kohler K341 with no spark & is driving me nuts. I believe I’ve checked everything except the coil itself
I put this motor on craftsman with the 3 speed high low rear end and it's side shaft rear end built pully guids and motore mounts to bolt my 12 kohler onto it and make it a belt driven side shaft mower but I don't know how to wire it up to make it run I have my negative from cool to points but I also have a wire coming of the part that I changed on the motor to make it charge but I don't know wear it goes my egniton,my silinoed,my battery I honestly don't know and do I still run the positive from my coil to my positive on the battery or does it go some whear else now
I have a 1979 chevy luv I run it 30 minutes and the coil heats up and the truck turns off and when the coil cools down it turns on What could I do
You need to install an in line resistor. A good auto parts store will be able to point you in the right direction. Zip~
yu need a resistor before the coil and the ignition actually fires when the points separate
My 1963 chevy Impala coil positive is connected to the starter and the second wire to the fuse box. And negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor points. I wonder if this correct because i am not having any spark and/or what can be the problem to fix this?
Your best bet is to go to the original Wiring Diagram and let that be your guide for proper wiring Ernesto. With so many battery ignition types out there, the manufacturers of each have slight differences in approaching the wiring. Best of luck and sorry I can't give you specifics. But they should be easy enough to search. Stay Safe! Zip~
Thank you Zippo! I'm restoring a Wheel Horse Charger 12 and the odd but expensive flywheel magneto is bad. Any recommendations on what coil to use and to either wire to a toggle switch or the ignition switch.
What engine (model number etc.) is it Brian? Zip~
@@ZippoVarga It's a K301 S. Sorry for not mentioning that... Thank you for the quick reply!
Nicely Done.
Will that work for 6 V system
I have been burning coils out on my 351W. I figured my resistance wire shorted out and caused the continuous 13.5 volt reading at positive side of terminal. I installed a ballast resistor and the coils lasted longer but continue to burn out. I have not adjusted the points after installing a new one. Could this cause the coil to burn out?
I can only guess that there is something else at play here, causing the coils to burn out. If you can, I would find an original wiring schematic for your Windsor and duplicate the wiring. If the issue continues after that, then something not intended to be in the wiring mix is causing the issue. It's hard to tell without being there, but if you isolate the ignition circuit to be only the ignition circuit from the key switch to the coil, then I would think the issue would be resolved. Simply put, anything sharing the circuit, even a radio wired to the ignition circuit, can effect the coil. Also, use spark plugs with resistors if you don't have them and make sure all your plug wires are healthy and not touching anything they shouldn't be. Cheers! And good luck. Zip~
Your close but it’s when the points open that the circuit becomes incomplete and the field in the coil collapses and goes to ground through the spark plug. Good video though.
Hello there,,, I saw your video and was helpful, I have a gravely that has an ignition coil that connect to fly wheel.. there is one wire that goes to sparking plug and another male connector. is any way you can tell me where the connector goes... How should I wire that so I can stop the machine running.... thanks in advance
How do I know if my coil is good? How do I test it?
ME TO I WEAR GLASSES BUT THEY DONT WORK TO WELL...IM TO OLD TO GET THEM FIXED NOW...MY EYES THAT IS...LMCAO...ANYWAY I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR PUTTING THIS ONE UP...I HAD A HARD TIME FINDING THE OLD TYPE OF COIL HOOK UPS NOW A DAYS ALL THE CARS HAS THOSE STUPID BLOCK COILS OR COILS FOR EACH PLUG WIRE...WHICH COST MORE GO FIGURE..PLUS THEY WEAR OUT FASTER...OLD COILS LAST ALMOST A LIFE TIME OF THE CAR...LMCAO...ANYWAY THANKS...I NEED THIS BEEN LONG TIME SINCE I DONE IT AND MY OLD BRAIN FORGOT HOW TO BUT I CAN REBUILD A 4 BARREL CARB AND A WHOLE OLD STYLE ENGINE...MY LAST REBUILD MOTOR WAS A 472....LATER THEY CAME OUT WITH A 500...IT WAS A GOOD BUILD AND FIRED UP THE FIRST TIME IT TURNED OVER ....IT WAS A BIG CAR AND A BIG ENGINE AND IT WOULD HAUL THE TRASH OUT....LOL...THANKS AGAIN....
BUTCH, I'M GLAD THE VIDEO HELPED JUMP START THE OLD MEMORY BANKS. I CAN ONLY SPECULATE THAT YOU ARE A CADILLAC MAN. THE 500, SO FAR AS MY MEMORY RECOLLECTS, WAS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE CADILLAC LINE UP IN THE 1970'S. ALL THREE OF ME VEHICLES ARE VINTAGE (24, 26 AND 38 YEARS OLD) AND ARE ALL SINGLE COIL POWERED. TWO ARE FUEL INJECTED HOWEVER. BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR REPAIR!! ZIP~
Hi. Just wondering what is the make of the tractor in the background with the white bonnet, under the green cab, working on something very similar to it at the moment for a friend and he had no idea what make or model it is. Thanks
That was a 3416H Simplicity. Simpletractors.com is your best place for info on them. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thank You, thats exactly what is it
Old video but I hope I get some help. I own a 1988 Ford ranger 5 speed but it has a 1970 Toyota Corolla motor 1.4l v4. My grandpa had the ignition completely gutted so I have that wire running from the battery to the positive, my negative is going to the points, ground and condenser. When I go to tape the wire inside the cap to turn on the coil they're both hot and begins to melt my wires. The wires I have in the trucks are coming from the alternator and a double grounded switch that comes from the negative point of the coil. I've tried everything but I keep overthinking which cause me to go braindead. Please help.
You don't hook any negative power at all to the ignition system. It uses the engine's ground for that. Remove the negative lead you stated that you installed and see what happens. Zip~
What engine was this? I have a very similar, if not the exact same one. No ignition to spark. My question is how long will the battery last before needing to recharge??
It's a Kohler K series 12hp. If your engine doesn't have an internal or external generator, it's all dependent on the quality and type of battery. A deep cycle would be your best bet so that you can fully deplete the battery and recharge it many times. I can't even begin to offer an answer to your question of how long the engine will run though. Zip~
depends on the batter i once drove a lorry all the way to maffick & back on a faulty alternator it was only when the lights whear on it gave me a prolom.
how to increase power the coil to the spark plugs. Iwould appreciate if you could help me..?
I got a kohler motore that started with a starter and silenced that charged the battery like that
I'm not sure where two contact points that are not contacting one another are capable of delivering a spark unless you are using a Tesla Coil to fire your engine. The contact points close (touch) in order to provide spark at a precise moment in the compression cycle to ignite the fuel. I'm not saying you're wrong so much as asking you how, when open, the points can complete the circuit to deliver the charge to the plug. Cheers.
I know my coil is wired wrong and fuel relay what color wires go to coil pack on 86 thunderbird 5.0
That must be a different engine than I had on the genny/welder in that case.I'm not sure which model it was but it was older than dirt.I couldn't even get points for it(didn't really know where to look though)so I put an eliminator on it.The Kohlers I've owned always did good for me though and this one looks like it was taken care of.Mine always looked like something that was dragged out of a swamp so if that means anything you ought to have a good experience with it.
I replaced an internal coil with an external on a 1978 Simplicity garden tractor with a 16 horse Briggs. The coil has and internal resistor. Can you tell me what the ohm reading should be when I check the + to - poles? I am not showing any ohms at all. On a coil with an outside resistor you should get 1.4 t0 1.8. Is it the same with internal resister? Thanks
hello my name is josh and i recently bought an internal resistor coil exactly like u have in the video but a little more interesting question is that i put a 5.0 (302) in my 95 ford ranger and i would like to know how to wire that coil on my single wire distributor with a push button start and a toggle switch. i have so for gotten everything wired up for starting wise put cant get spark to the spark plugs
I have a 73 mg midget and ca t seem to get it wired back up right. I dont know where the points are.
The points are under the spark plug cap on the distributor RL. Zip~
I see I commented before .. but this could work on an old tractor with a magneto too - couldn't it ? Thanks Zippo! Gary
This would replace the magneto I assume, but is there an advantage to it or is it in case your magneto is shot and you can't replace it? Or perhaps for an engine that is built without a magneto.
i'm curious. my 1975 Dodge had the condenser on the positive terminal. or at least I thought. i replaced the coil. an now my truck turns over. but won't start. is it perhaps cause the condenser is on the positive? an if so, could my new coil now be shot cause of me putting it to the positive?
I have power on positive side of coil when key on and cranking ,
Condenser and points wire on negative post on coil No Spark?
I need to check ground ?to engine .
I should have said what will happen without the condenser? Will the engine still run?
No sir. The condenser stores the charge that ultimately fires the spark plug. The whole system must be in tact with all of its parts for the engine to run. Zip~
Close but Nil cigar
The condenser across the points helps the points to NOT burn - removing it will ensure Points fail early ( and often ).
It has Zip to do with " storing a charge that helps fire spark plug ".