Great pictures, great description. Not 1 in 100 videos is so clear. I don't know why people have such a hard time communicating, but I am glad you are one of the rare ones who knows how to do it. Thanks!
Awesome! Somebody finally took the time to explain the "why" not just the set-up & routing of these wires, but why it is wired this way. This is very helpful in diagnosing a no spark situation. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
most spark problems start with wrong mfd condenser value or it is defective if points are pitting look at condenser some just clean the points and ignor the condenser it is criticle important that the primary winding and the condenser match for instance i found my 53 dodge uses a 27 mfd for max spark it is a ball of of fire now had wrong value so a weak spark . this is refered to as series resonant circuit look this up it explains in detail (on line)
Thankyou. I've only been working on old cars for 60 years and this is the first time I have understood what a "Ballast resister" does! Got it.......at last. I can now die in peace with the question answered, "What's that thing?" on my car! ):
Thank you for explaining how the coil voltage stay the same in crank and run situations. You made it very simple and easy to understand the circuitry.. well done
Dude! This was the best damned video I've ever seen explaining what happens at ignition and why there are ballast resistors. I am working on my Ford 640 and replaced the ignition switch was seemingly malfunctioning intermittently. When I pulled the hood to get at the tiny block terminal, I noticed that there was a resistor under the dash wired through the terminal block. This Tractor had a 12v conversion done to it long before I owned it, so I figured it was unnecessary and might cause a weak spark so I disconnected it (and installed a new coil requiring, supposedly, no external resistor) and rebuilt the distributor and put in a new condenser and points). When I tried to start it after all of that, it would not start at all. Since I know it had spark before I disconnected the resistor, I figured that ballast resistor must somehow be in the ignition circuit, so I reconnected it and it fired right up. QUESTION: The new coil says it does not need an external resistor, which I take to mean that it has an internal resistor. Does this make the coil more in the 6v range and is that okay for the points and spark? If not, how do I bypass the external resistor? I've seen a lot of comments referencing the 12v coils burning too hot for the points, but does this matter at all? By the way, it purrs like a kitten and all four cylinders have a good spark - I tested them all. Shocking how good this 1957 tractor runs despite the general abuse it has taken over the years. Anyway - thanks for the video. This was terrific help.
I am very impressed with your performance in this video. Direct and to the point that what people want when they are looking for help on youtube auto video's. Well explained and demonstrated. You show what the problem's could be and what to look for. It really help the viewer diagnosing their problems. I learned some things here thank you. Good Job
i have hyundai azera 2009 & i found a resistor for my ignetion coils in the parts catalog. if it's became faulty what are symptoms? because the engine have random stuttering even i can hear the statics in the speakers because of it! by the way the spark plugs, coils, battery, alternator are new & the diagnostic tool don't show misfire
I had a old civic with contact breaker points. The points burnt every two months or so. I got tired of sand paper ritual. Then, someone suggested the resistor and that solved the problem. I never damaged the coil in the 5 years I drove that thing. In another another car, I damaged a few ignition switches when I tried to not used the FORD solenoid. It appears that the current for the starter mounted solenoid was too much for the ignition switch. It looked like that FORD system uses the solenoid as a relay for the other solenoid. I never liked the direct connection of positive cable in old chevrolets. Great explanation!
YES! He explained it correctly. So many people will tell you that the "I" wire is so the coil can get 'A full 12 volts during cranking'. This is not correct. His explanation is correct. While cranking the potential voltage drops to 8 to 9 volts and that's why the ballast is bypassed. Thank you!
Outstanding job. I worked as a technical educator for 5 years, then 29 years in automotive manufacturing, part of that time developing service training for distributor and fleet customer service technicians. I am not a mechanic though, but, I recognize good tutorials when I see them (an all too rare occurrence). There is a need (unanswered demand) for no-nonsense training manuals and audiovisuals for the vintage car owner/enthusiast (non-mechanics, myself included), on early Ford, 6 volt generator, positive ground electrical systems. Actually, vintage car professional (?) mechanics could use it as well. Specifically the battery/generator/voltage regulator (control box as it was called in certain publications)/starter/coil and related wiring, resistors, etc.. You wouldn’t get rich but you might break even and just think of the fun you’d have!
Thanks for sharing this video. I have to replace my ignition switch on my old Massey Ferguson tractor. This video was just what I needed. Thanks a lot! !!
Good stuff man, I bought a 66 Fury and when I started going through it I noticed that they had electrical tape around a fuse. As it turned out they used that fuse as a bypass of the ballast resitor. Granted, they installed an MSD distributor with an MSD Blaster 3 coil, however, the coil does not need 12 volts going through it. I couldn't find the clue until I watched your video.
Fantastic!! My 62 Chrysler THANKS YOU!! Just make sure when engine shuts down like he said, dont assume it is the ballast, check wire harness wires could be broken or just not fully pushed into the fire wall or contacts need cleaning. This was my problem and it took a while to figure out. Follow the power like he said you will find low voltage or no power and that tells you where the problem lies. This really helped and I liked the screwdriver pointer Awsome!! My 62 chrysler thanks you !!
Hello friend one question, do you know how to test and what to expect on the wires connector/pigtail of a coil pack i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i have a problem just bought two ignition coils for my car they are good duralast brand but some how spark plug wires 5 and 7 are not sparking, I really do not know where to start testing and i do not know how to resolve the problem, i need help my friend please let me know if you can help me to figure out and where to start. Thanks in advance...
My '47 Ford, with original flathead V8, was converted to 12 volt system but still runs the original 6v ignition coil. 2 ballast resistors for this setup!
You are the MAN! this is the explanation i've been looking for. I am switching to an electronic ignition in my 66 mustang and have to bypass the resistor. Thank you.
Thanks so much! Fantastic explanations. My buddy is a mechanic and shared this with me for use with my boat: A 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 inboard with a Ford Winchester Pleasure Craft Marine 351 motor. I’ve been having issues with my motor starting (even with the ignition switch and key turned off) whenever I connect my battery cables. Seems like my Solenoid has maybe gone bad, but gosh your breakdown of the entire ignition chain is so informative I feel much more confident in tracking down the faulty part or cable (like you said, could be something crimped or chewed on by a mouse etc. 😅) Many thanks my friend. You are an amazing resource of information and knowledge. Will be sure to share your content with friends. 😁👍
Excellent work man. Just the information i needed. I'm jury rigging a 6 volt horn to work with a 12 volt system using a ballast resistor to compensate for the extra voltage/amps.
Hello Sir, one question are you replacing the whole wire harness? If you do not mind to ask you, where did you buy it, is it new or used? I need one for my 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8 5.0 engine, at least for the coils and sensors in the engine compartment, please let me know if you can thanks in advance...
THANKS. After I washed my engine of my 56 Tbird when I tried to start it it would die as soon as the starter shut off. A mechanic told me my carb was the problem. After many hours of diagnosing this and that and finding everything in working order, I finally noticed that a wire had come loose that was connected to my coil resistor and as soon as I hooked it up it started and ran just fine. Sorry I didn't see this video sooner it would have saved me all the time of trying to figure out what the problem was.
Please share your experience on review sites for the mechanic who misdiagnosed your problem. It's the only good way to help others avoid rip-offs. Thank you.
That's the problem lm having with my 69 f-100. But nobody but you people know, or so it seems, how a balast resister works. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Hey Dude, This is a really good explanation of the system! Thank You. I will use every bit of your video to check out my 77 Chevy LUV and get all wires corrected.
the ballast resistor works by, well, being a resister it resists the flow (amperage) of electrons moving in the circuit to all point downstream of it. it is the flow (or amperage) of electrons that do the work. voltage is just the pressure to move those electrons and is proportional to the flow. we use amperage to weld with. the electron flow causes heat and transfers metal with it . you can run a vehicle without a resister but the excessive flow will cause heat in the coil and points shortening their life dramatically. yes there will be a voltage drop after the resister but that is a side effect caused by the restriction to flow. E=IxR once you master that electrical is easy.
My friend i can tell you are a PRO the way you talk about this, hope i can learn from you something, i am in need to fix my car due to economical situation also mechanics charge an arm an a leg and some of them are not honest, i want to fix my car, i tell you a little bit of my situation, i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine it has 8 spark plugs, 6 of them spark very good, number 5 and 7 do not spark at all, number 5 is in one coil pack and number 7 is in the other coil pack, 8 just bought the coil packs they are knew, i feel like i have a bad electrical wire but i do not know where to start, can you teach me how to test the right way the pigtail/ connectors of a coil pack...thank in advance...
Thanks for the video very well spoken and understandable I think that's what's wrong with my 74 duster we going to try that today and see if we can get it to fire up
Thanks man! The tutorial helped me get my 73 mustang 351 CJ back on the road. Needed to add the resistor to the electronic IGto make it work right! 😅👍🏾🐎😎
GREAT! I confess that about the only thing I know about automobiles is the ignition system, so I completely understood all you said. I use many of these parts for non-automotive applications--much cheaper! Especially the starter solenoid and the ignition coil for high-power flashtube triggers in large lasers. However, I would like to comment that you should have shown an actual ballast resister in the video so people would know what they actually look like. Thanks much!
Hello my friend, one question is it hard to install a ballast resistor on a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i do not know if this car has one already but it keeps blowing my ignition coils i feel like their are receiving too much current, but honestly i do not know where to start maybe you have time to explain me, so far i just found out that wires 5 and 7 has no spark and the car shaking too much, i am reading trying to find out why this two wires are not sparking. If you can, please help me where to start, i sincerely appreciated your time and thank you in advance...
Exactly what I was looking for re: the balance resistor. I appreciate the layman's wiring diagram. I wish I could get a transcript of the video--is that possible?
Does there need to be a diode in the wire coming off of the starter seleniod to the ballast resistor to keep from backfeeding the starter selenoid when in normal engine running operation?
Thank you! I like the way you explained it. My car would not start after coming back from a 10 min drive. I got it to run for 30 seconds and would not start after . I may have flooded the engine maybe because no spark? I’m getting fuel ! Plugs looked wet and fouled. I gaped and installed all new spark plugs and still would not start . I noticed the + wire from the coil is not hooked up to the Ballast resistor.. I’m not sure if I snagged it off replacing the spark plugs. The male connectors on the Ballast resistors seems loose and it wiggles?? Is that normal?the voltage checked out 12.85 on one side and 7.89 volts on the coil side with the key on. Still won’t start! I bought a remote starter switch at amazon coming in 2 days. This way I can crank the engine from the engine bay. Should i check the coil next? How do you test a good or bad coil? Should I also check the points? The car ran fine prior To it not It is a stock 200 ci Ford straight 6 cylinder in a 1961 Ranchero. I subscribed to your channel 💪🏻🔥👍🏻
I have a question you do not show the wiring from the coil to the distributor I wired my tractor as you have shown and it only works if the distributor point are closed, If the engine stops with the points open the start curcit does not work. Could you please explain how this works. I put in a start relay to provide the full start voltage to the coil Thanks Andy
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
Excellent explanation , easy to understand and about as interesting as you can make a resistor presentation. It was way better than most and I hope you do more cuz I'm a little lacking upstairs when it comes to electrics.
Is it the voltage that causes heat or is it the current flow? Isn't the ballast resistor ultimately reducing the current flow in the coil because adding more resistors into a circuit reduces current flow based on I=V/R from V=IR as the voltage is constant!
This was a great video. I have 1965 Ford Ranchero, it dided on the fwy, it started back up, drove it 2 miles died again, found the power wire that looked slightly burnt, replaced it. It has been fine but it started up again. 2 more times it died but started right back up after several tries. I put a jumper from the battery to the coil and it ran great for hours. So I think that tells me the coil is good and ballast resister is bad. Correct???
By far the best explanation I've ever seen on this topic. Well done, sir.
It's amazing how a well drawn diagram and good communication skills can easily trump CGI animations so often.
Great pictures, great description. Not 1 in 100 videos is so clear. I don't know why people have such a hard time communicating, but I am glad you are one of the rare ones who knows how to do it. Thanks!
Awesome! Somebody finally took the time to explain the "why" not just the set-up & routing of these wires, but why it is wired this way. This is very helpful in diagnosing a no spark situation. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
most spark problems start with wrong mfd condenser value or it is defective if points are pitting look at condenser some just clean the points and ignor the condenser it is criticle important that the primary winding and the condenser match for instance i found my 53 dodge uses a 27 mfd for max spark it is a ball of of fire now had wrong value so a weak spark . this is refered to as series resonant circuit look this up it explains in detail (on line)
@@frankdavidson9675 Thanks for the extra info.
This guy is one of the few people that actually explains the what a ballast resistor really does! Great video!
Thankyou. I've only been working on old cars for 60 years and this is the first time I have understood what a "Ballast resister" does! Got it.......at last. I can now die in peace with the question answered, "What's that thing?" on my car! ):
The best explanation I've ever seen on resistors. Thank You
Great video. I've worked on Mopars all my life and knew that a ballast resistor was critical, but never really understood why. Thanks!
These failed alot back then and some people used to have a spare ballast resistor in their car!
What a fantastic video! Clear explanation, useful diagram, concise without any unnecessary nonsense. Thank you for posting it.
Thank you for explaining how the coil voltage stay the same in crank and run situations. You made it very simple and easy to understand the circuitry.. well done
Just saw your video ,thank you for helping a 76 year old vet
Very well explained, simple but concise, it's about time someone did it properly, it's helped me, thank you
Dude! This was the best damned video I've ever seen explaining what happens at ignition and why there are ballast resistors. I am working on my Ford 640 and replaced the ignition switch was seemingly malfunctioning intermittently. When I pulled the hood to get at the tiny block terminal, I noticed that there was a resistor under the dash wired through the terminal block. This Tractor had a 12v conversion done to it long before I owned it, so I figured it was unnecessary and might cause a weak spark so I disconnected it (and installed a new coil requiring, supposedly, no external resistor) and rebuilt the distributor and put in a new condenser and points). When I tried to start it after all of that, it would not start at all. Since I know it had spark before I disconnected the resistor, I figured that ballast resistor must somehow be in the ignition circuit, so I reconnected it and it fired right up.
QUESTION: The new coil says it does not need an external resistor, which I take to mean that it has an internal resistor. Does this make the coil more in the 6v range and is that okay for the points and spark? If not, how do I bypass the external resistor? I've seen a lot of comments referencing the 12v coils burning too hot for the points, but does this matter at all?
By the way, it purrs like a kitten and all four cylinders have a good spark - I tested them all. Shocking how good this 1957 tractor runs despite the general abuse it has taken over the years. Anyway - thanks for the video. This was terrific help.
I am very impressed with your performance in this video. Direct and to the point that what people want when they are looking for help on youtube auto video's. Well explained and demonstrated. You show what the problem's could be and what to look for. It really help the viewer diagnosing their problems. I learned some things here thank you. Good Job
i have hyundai azera 2009 & i found a resistor for my ignetion coils in the parts catalog. if it's became faulty what are symptoms? because the engine have random stuttering even i can hear the statics in the speakers because of it! by the way the spark plugs, coils, battery, alternator are new & the diagnostic tool don't show misfire
Bro even uses a screwdriver to do his lecture!
Savage video! Excellent job.
Excellent job explaining this. Thank you for taking the time to share this information.
Awesome! Very well explained. Finally I understood the "I" of the started solenoid.
I had a old civic with contact breaker points. The points burnt every two months or so. I got tired of sand paper ritual. Then, someone suggested the resistor and that solved the problem. I never damaged the coil in the 5 years I drove that thing.
In another another car, I damaged a few ignition switches when I tried to not used the FORD solenoid. It appears that the current for the starter mounted solenoid was too much for the ignition switch. It looked like that FORD system uses the solenoid as a relay for the other solenoid. I never liked the direct connection of positive cable in old chevrolets.
Great explanation!
YES! He explained it correctly. So many people will tell you that the "I" wire is so the coil can get 'A full 12 volts during cranking'. This is not correct. His explanation is correct. While cranking the potential voltage drops to 8 to 9 volts and that's why the ballast is bypassed. Thank you!
Outstanding job. I worked as a technical educator for 5 years, then 29 years in automotive manufacturing, part of that time developing service training for distributor and fleet customer service technicians. I am not a mechanic though, but, I recognize good tutorials when I see them (an all too rare occurrence). There is a need (unanswered demand) for no-nonsense training manuals and audiovisuals for the vintage car owner/enthusiast (non-mechanics, myself included), on early Ford, 6 volt generator, positive ground electrical systems. Actually, vintage car professional (?) mechanics could use it as well. Specifically the battery/generator/voltage regulator (control box as it was called in certain publications)/starter/coil and related wiring, resistors, etc..
You wouldn’t get rich but you might break even and just think of the fun you’d have!
More of this guy, please. Really excellent video.
Great illustration! Great concise explanation! Nice, straight and fundamental information!
all comes flooding back. super simple, perfect explanation. awesome mate. thankyou
Great explanation sir. I finally understand this system.
Thank you for this explanation. You have saved me quite a bit of time diagnosing an old Bronco.
Thanks for sharing this video. I have to replace my ignition switch on my old Massey Ferguson tractor. This video was just what I needed. Thanks a lot! !!
Thanks very much for taking the time to explain mate 👍 much appreciated from New Zealand
Like everyone else has said, this is really well explained, thanks!
الشخص الوحيد الذي شرح وظيفة المقاومة .👍
Yes, very good video, thanks for taking the time to make it !
Good stuff man, I bought a 66 Fury and when I started going through it I noticed that they had electrical tape around a fuse. As it turned out they used that fuse as a bypass of the ballast resitor. Granted, they installed an MSD distributor with an MSD Blaster 3 coil, however, the coil does not need 12 volts going through it. I couldn't find the clue until I watched your video.
Perfect, answered all my questions... How to test, typically ohm reading, potential problems. Thanks for the video!
Fantastic!! My 62 Chrysler THANKS YOU!!
Just make sure when engine shuts down like he said, dont assume it is the ballast, check wire harness wires could be broken or just not fully pushed into the fire wall or contacts need cleaning. This was my problem and it took a while to figure out. Follow the power like he said you will find low voltage or no power and that tells you where the problem lies. This really helped and I liked the screwdriver pointer Awsome!! My 62 chrysler thanks you !!
Hello friend one question, do you know how to test and what to expect on the wires connector/pigtail of a coil pack i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i have a problem just bought two ignition coils for my car they are good duralast brand but some how spark plug wires 5 and 7 are not sparking, I really do not know where to start testing and i do not know how to resolve the problem, i need help my friend please let me know if you can help me to figure out and where to start. Thanks in advance...
A very simple and clear description on the function of a Ballast
Resister
Great info !!!! I have car with bad start. My garage said pull plus from battery to coil directly to test. I did this but luckily didn’t fry the coil.
My '47 Ford, with original flathead V8, was converted to 12 volt system but still runs the original 6v ignition coil. 2 ballast resistors for this setup!
Wow. Thank you. I am a newbie and really really appreciate this as I am troubleshooting an old GMC truck.
You are the MAN! this is the explanation i've been looking for. I am switching to an electronic ignition in my 66 mustang and have to bypass the resistor. Thank you.
What do you have to do to bypass the resistor what takes it place?
Great video. You've covered all sides of the ballast resistor what its for and when its bypassed
Thank you so much for this. I have an old Jeep and this info. is exactly what I was looking for, great explanations too.
Thanks so much!
Fantastic explanations. My buddy is a mechanic and shared this with me for use with my boat: A 1989 Ski Nautique 2001 inboard with a Ford Winchester Pleasure Craft Marine 351 motor.
I’ve been having issues with my motor starting (even with the ignition switch and key turned off) whenever I connect my battery cables. Seems like my Solenoid has maybe gone bad, but gosh your breakdown of the entire ignition chain is so informative I feel much more confident in tracking down the faulty part or cable (like you said, could be something crimped or chewed on by a mouse etc. 😅)
Many thanks my friend. You are an amazing resource of information and knowledge. Will be sure to share your content with friends. 😁👍
Excellent work man. Just the information i needed. I'm jury rigging a 6 volt horn to work with a 12 volt system using a ballast resistor to compensate for the extra voltage/amps.
Great tutorial mate. Easy to understand and made a lot of sense for me to hook up the new wiring harness of my customer's Mustang. Cheers
Hello Sir, one question are you replacing the whole wire harness? If you do not mind to ask you, where did you buy it, is it new or used? I need one for my 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8 5.0 engine, at least for the coils and sensors in the engine compartment, please let me know if you can thanks in advance...
Great video. Very explained and good art work
Great tutorial, helped understand the reason I have a ballast resistor on my TR7 which now runs a 12 volt coil in place of the original 6 volt coil.
Be careful on coil selection some coils have a built in resistor. No need for external resistor
Thank you so much. I've been trying to find this answer for awhile.
THANKS. After I washed my engine of my 56 Tbird when I tried to start it it would die as soon as the starter shut off. A mechanic told me my carb was the problem. After many hours of diagnosing this and that and finding everything in working order, I finally noticed that a wire had come loose that was connected to my coil resistor and as soon as I hooked it up it started and ran just fine. Sorry I didn't see this video sooner it would have saved me all the time of trying to figure out what the problem was.
Please share your experience on review sites for the mechanic who misdiagnosed your problem. It's the only good way to help others avoid rip-offs. Thank you.
Excellent video...perfectly explained and great diagram...well done!
That's the problem lm having with my 69 f-100. But nobody but you people know, or so it seems, how a balast resister works. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Thank you.... simple and direct.... thank you
I’m going to sound like a broken record here on this comment section , but great explanation. Would like to see more of this type of teaching video.
Best explanation I've seen. Great job!
Hey Dude, This is a really good explanation of the system! Thank You. I will use every bit of your video to check out my 77 Chevy LUV and get all wires corrected.
Outstanding explanation. Thank you for taking the time to share this.
Thank You! A great explanation that totally makes sense! Love it! Peace from New Zealand :)
Excellent!! Exactly what I needed. Thanks for putting this together!
Nice and simply exclaimed 👍😀
Great tutorial. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.
Awesome job, thank you for the simple yet informative explanation.
the ballast resistor works by, well, being a resister it resists the flow (amperage) of electrons moving in the circuit to all point downstream of it. it is the flow (or amperage) of electrons that do the work. voltage is just the pressure to move those electrons and is proportional to the flow. we use amperage to weld with. the electron flow causes heat and transfers metal with it . you can run a vehicle without a resister but the excessive flow will cause heat in the coil and points shortening their life dramatically. yes there will be a voltage drop after the resister but that is a side effect caused by the restriction to flow. E=IxR once you master that electrical is easy.
My friend i can tell you are a PRO the way you talk about this, hope i can learn from you something, i am in need to fix my car due to economical situation also mechanics charge an arm an a leg and some of them are not honest, i want to fix my car, i tell you a little bit of my situation, i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine it has 8 spark plugs, 6 of them spark very good, number 5 and 7 do not spark at all, number 5 is in one coil pack and number 7 is in the other coil pack, 8 just bought the coil packs they are knew, i feel like i have a bad electrical wire but i do not know where to start, can you teach me how to test the right way the pigtail/ connectors of a coil pack...thank in advance...
Thanks for the video very well spoken and understandable I think that's what's wrong with my 74 duster we going to try that today and see if we can get it to fire up
Absolutely the best explanation I’ve found let !
Hey man....Thanks for the really cool video. I like the way you explain things. Your video really set me straight on the ignition system. Thanks....
Best part is the absence of an annoying silly background music. Thank you..
And the actual explanation. Thank you.
Here in 2024 and felt like my dad helped me understand the mysterious ballast resistor in the classic we built!
Thanks man! The tutorial helped me get my 73 mustang 351 CJ back on the road. Needed to add the resistor to the electronic IGto make it work right! 😅👍🏾🐎😎
Thank you! Best explanation so far.
GREAT! I confess that about the only thing I know about automobiles is the ignition system, so I completely understood all you said. I use many of these parts for non-automotive applications--much cheaper! Especially the starter solenoid and the ignition coil for high-power flashtube triggers in large lasers. However, I would like to comment that you should have shown an actual ballast resister in the video so people would know what they actually look like.
Thanks much!
Hello my friend, one question is it hard to install a ballast resistor on a 1997 mercury mountaineer V-8, 5.0 engine, i do not know if this car has one already but it keeps blowing my ignition coils i feel like their are receiving too much current, but honestly i do not know where to start maybe you have time to explain me, so far i just found out that wires 5 and 7 has no spark and the car shaking too much, i am reading trying to find out why this two wires are not sparking. If you can, please help me where to start, i sincerely appreciated your time and thank you in advance...
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for clairifying this!
Great Explanation! Thank you. It fixed my tractor.
Good stuff man! Thank you very much, a great help.
Exactly what I was looking for re: the balance resistor. I appreciate the layman's wiring diagram. I wish I could get a transcript of the video--is that possible?
Does there need to be a diode in the wire coming off of the starter seleniod to the ballast resistor to keep from backfeeding the starter selenoid when in normal engine running operation?
Excellent, easy to understand. Thank you!!!!
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks
Great video. Very well explained!!
Best explanation yet!
Thank you! I like the way you explained it.
My car would not start after coming back from a 10 min drive. I got it to run for 30 seconds and would not start after . I may have flooded the engine maybe because no spark? I’m getting fuel ! Plugs looked wet and fouled. I gaped and installed all new spark plugs and still would not start . I noticed the + wire from the coil is not hooked up to the Ballast resistor.. I’m not sure if I snagged it off replacing the spark plugs. The male connectors on the Ballast resistors seems loose and it wiggles?? Is that normal?the voltage checked out 12.85 on one side and 7.89 volts on the coil side with the key on.
Still won’t start! I bought a remote starter switch at amazon coming in 2 days. This way I can crank the engine from the engine bay. Should i check the coil next? How do you test a good or bad coil? Should I also check the points?
The car ran fine prior To it not
It is a stock 200 ci Ford straight 6 cylinder in a 1961 Ranchero. I subscribed to your channel 💪🏻🔥👍🏻
Great video🤙
Very clear explanation well done!
I'm wondering , if in an early Ford tractor system at 6 volts , could the ballast resistor be removed to cure a weak spark condition ?
Great job Sir!!
I have a question you do not show the wiring from the coil to the distributor I wired my tractor as you have shown and it only works if the distributor point are closed, If the engine stops with the points open the start curcit does not work. Could you please explain how this works. I put in a start relay to provide the full start voltage to the coil
Thanks Andy
Thank you. You are a great teacher
Hey I’m having a no start issue on my 1978 Porsche 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
I got 12 volts on both sides of the resistor with the ignition in the on position and 0 ohms when tested. Is this a bad resistor?
Excellent explanation , easy to understand and about as interesting as you can make a resistor presentation. It was way better than most and I hope you do more cuz I'm a little lacking upstairs when it comes to electrics.
Best explanation I've seen. Thank you!
Amazing video, very well explained thank you’
Thankyou . great video very well explained
Is it the voltage that causes heat or is it the current flow? Isn't the ballast resistor ultimately reducing the current flow in the coil because adding more resistors into a circuit reduces current flow based on I=V/R from V=IR as the voltage is constant!
May 3rd-2021, that was pretty damn good, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us
Thank you very much! I have an older Ford and this helped me out tramendously!!!
This was a great video. I have 1965 Ford Ranchero, it dided on the fwy, it started back up, drove it 2 miles died again, found the power wire that looked slightly burnt, replaced it. It has been fine but it started up again. 2 more times it died but started right back up after several tries. I put a jumper from the battery to the coil and it ran great for hours. So I think that tells me the coil is good and ballast resister is bad. Correct???
Great informative video great teacher without all that annoying music.
Does the ballast resistor need grounding from the mounting screw?
Or does it need any grounding at all?
Very good presentation, l did not understand this system. Now I do.
My Plymouth has over 12 volt's on both sides of the coil?
a ballast resistor reduces voltage,... is there a way to test a resistor to see if its good.