Installed unit on WD45 Allis Chalmers gas engine that had been converted to propane. I converted to 12 volt negative ground before installation. The difference was incredible! After opening plug gaps to .035, and installing hot rod plug wires, starting is much faster, response is better, and even with the lower compression gas engine, tractor is still putting out 45 PTO horse power. All this work was done 20 years ago.
I have a 1975 f100 with a 360 and solid state ignition. My resistance wire runs all the way to the ignition switch. Where do I tie in to get the 12v to coil?
Put one in my son's Pontiac 326. Lasted a few weeks before it took a crap. Tried to get it replaced and all the support wanted to do was come up with reasons why it was my fault. The 2 or 3 might be better, but we dropped a Mallory Unilite in it last year......no problems.
You can run the Pertronix II in a factory tach car. I am running one in my 1967 Shelby. You run the factory wires as you would to the coil , including the black from the ignition unit. The red wire that comes off the Pertronix unit will have to have a direct feed from the ignition switch. I simply pulled a 16 gauge fine stranded wire through the boot that feeds the engines gauges and soldered a ring terminal and heat shrink wrapped the connection. It's to the 12V IGN hot.
Could y’all make a tutorial for running the full 12 Volts? It seems like a common problem, and I can’t find a video or a good article to explain the process. Thanks!
Quick question: don't one have to readjust the ignition timing after installation of the ignitor module? I may have missed that in the video. My best from Germany, Jay
and yet again you two have helped me immensely!!! every time I go to do something to my 1964 XM Futura you have answered all my questions and some that I haven't even asked yet :) Please support these guy's everyone it's well worth it! Thank you Jeff and Cam. My T Shirt and Mug are on the way
Any advice would be appreciated. I have a pertronix module 2 on my golf cart. Any reason why the manufacturer Columbia Par Car had one installed?? My cart just starts without running. Would the module have to be replaced??
So, as earlier I replaced the points and condenser with Pertronix on my 1964 Ford f250. I notice that Pertronix also has a distributor to replace the original distributor. Is replacing the original distributor with the Pertronix worth the investment?
So I have a 61 Galaxie that already has an electric ignition module installed in my distributor but I'm not sure if the previous owner bypassed the ballist resistor wire. I could use the multimeter test here to confirm? Does the ballast resistor get bypassed when the car is running or just during cranking?
I'm putting in a pertronix 3 into a 70 dodge challenger 340. is there the pink wire setup in the dodge as well? anything I need to be aware of, especially at the end with wiring? (I'm forcing myself to learn how to work on my car so please don't judge how little I know. thanks in advance.) Btw: great, super clear video.
Thanks for the kind words! I seem to remember that Mopar used a ballast rather than a wire to reduce voltage to the coil. We'd recommend doing some research as Chrysler got into Electronic ignition around '73ish. Put he red Pertronix wire through the firewall to the back of the fuse box; you will have to spice a considerable amount of wire on to the red Pertronix wire. Then connected it to one of the jumper leads on the back of the fuse box (must have 12 volts!) that turns on and off with the ignition. The black Pertronix wire goes to the negative (-) on the coil, and the blue ignition (factory) wire gets connected to the positive (+) on the coil. Leave the factory wires plugged into the stock ballast resistor on the firewall.
Hey guys, so did you not connect the red PerTronix wire to the positive side of the coil. Looks like you instead , ran it to the 12V ignition correct??
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media good to know thanks. Also does coil wire length matter say like 2 feet if you place coil on front shock tower inner fender? Thanks
Hi, I have a 65 Mustang with the stock 289 and am looking at getting the Pertronix 1 and using the stock coil. It is mentioned that the 2 and 3 require 12 volts. Is that the same for the 1? If so, and I run a new bullet connector off the red/green wires like you did, what size wire should I use? After that, do I just leave the existing pink connection off and then tape off the original coil positive end? Just wondering what I do with both ends of that pink/positive coil wire. I've seen some videos where people just pop the unit into the distributor and off they go without even addressing the pink wire situation, but I don't want to mess it up from the get go.
I really recommend using the Pertronix coil with the unit. Even on the Petronix 1. I also will bypass the pink wire by using the bullet connector at the ignition switch (Red with Green with Black female end) and plug a 16 gauge wire into that and run it to the distributor.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the info. I'll have to open up the cluster to see how much of a cluster this is going to be! Is there usually a hole to run the new wire through or have to drill?
I had one of those to burn the wires going to it up after I turned off the switch. I was wondering if it is possible to put a fusible link between the wires to keep this from happening again. I've bought a new igniter that I haven't installed yet because I don't know why the old wires burned up.
So your eliminating the pink wire and running the coil straight to the butt connector behind the dash? I’m installing a petronix 3 distributor and coil on a 64 Galaxie. That’s the only part I’m confused about.
Yes. The 3 requires 12 volts. Usually on Fords there is a red with green wire with black female plug you will want to unplug the existing red with green wire with black mail connector wire and plug a wire (I use red) into the female black plug.
I recently bought the flamethrower ii and ignitor ii for a Bosch distributor. I notice in the instructions that you can't use the flamethrower ii with the point system. Any reason why?
We'd recommend calling Pertronix only because we haven't done a Bosch system. We're not sure why a Bosch would be any different, but best to call the manufacturer and quiz them.
I would like to try this on my 1964 Ford f250 pickup with a 292. I already have the part in my distributor that replaced my points and it has been a great system.
great great video. does electronic ignition contribute to better throttle response. my car runs well already. i have a 1967 fairlane w/ 289 2 barrel. which one would u recommend for performance? thank you for all you do
Yes and no. Throttle response is more tied to carb and if ignition timing. Now, if you're using a points distributor, and you have no way of checking dwell (the amount of hangup caused by the physical wear of mechanical points), then an electronic ignition module may add a little "oomph"
I used the resistor wire on my Pertronix and it worked fine. I think it lasted for about 15 yrs until it started failing due to under hood temp. I then went back to points for a few yrs then decided to try Crane X R-i which I've been using since about 2002. The Crane unit is a simpler install where you remove the points and condenser and slide the Crane unit where the points were which use the same holes. On GM points distributors you may need to cut down the Crane screw for the left mounting hole so the vacuum advance can moves freely. The unit have 2 wires that connect to the coil + and - terminals. The Crane unit also has a rev limiter. In both modules I used a MSD Blaster 2 coil. I also used the resistor wire with the Crane unit until I connected a MSD 6AL 6420 in my 1970 Z28.
The base Pertronix will run on the resistor ok according to the company. It's when you move to the II and III that they recommend a move away from the resistor.
I bought a new coil for my factory 67 mustang 289. The original coil has positive and negative. The new one has battery, and distributor. Which wires go to which terminal on the new one? I don't want to burn up a brand new coil by having them hooked up wrong........red to battery, black to distributor?
Maybe i missed it, but do you still have to set or adjust the dwell with this Pertronix ignition system? Have seen other videos where there is a "spare" wire from the engine which must be clipped off and crimped onto a new spade terminal for the (+) of the ignition coil, as well as reset the timing.
I have a VW motor which has a magneto, no battery, & points. Can I use this Pertronix to get rid of the points (but also continue to not use a battery)? This isn't in a car so...I don't need a battery (I also don't have an alternator).
my 64 1/2 mustang has the starter solenoid ignition terminal running off the resistor wire as well. Will it hurt the solenoid to have 12 volts going to it or do I need to keep the resistor wire in place just to satisfy the solenoid?
I have a 64.5 Mustang and the Pertronix 3 setup… does this one need to be straight 12V from the ignition?? Help!!! Thank you!!! What will I notice after I do this???
I have a 1966 Plym Fury with 383 and I am interested in changing out the points system and go to an electronic system. Do I need to change the distributor or can I go with one of these Pertronix Ignitor Ignition System kits that you show?
Hey guys, I’m new to Ford. I have a 65 Ford ranchero with a 302 engine with pertronix dist. Can you explain to me how to wire the coil? I see a negative and positive on the dist. I understand the negative side goes to coil and then the positive to positive side? What am I missing?
The red goes to the positive side of the coil (I recommend a Pertronix coil) and the black to the negative side I run a red wire (16-20 gauge) from the ignition switch (there is a plug there on the red with green wire) to the positive side of the coil. That simple. Any issues please feel free to contact me at jford@autorestomod.com
Hi Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974 My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it. After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth. After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100% Thing that confuse me totaly. How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible??? My coil got 3 wires on. 1. Ignition wire to + 2. Wire to points on - 3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes) Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁 The condencor is connected to the wire that go to the points. Condencer is skrewed on the casing of distributor. The extra wire on the negative on coil go down with the ignition wire. So there is 2 wires on negative of coil. One go to points and condenser other one go down with ignition wire. Not to condenser or distributor. I mean its comfusing. Just after i fix points that got short to earth permantly. Starter stop keep cranking and got spark (there was no spark) and car start 100% I keep on thinking that the extra wire on coil negative side got something to do with starter keep cranking. That extra wire make my mind spin. 🤔🤔🤔😃 O yes... Took of the ignition wire from starter and connect a wire straight to starter and stil keep cranking. So it were not ignition switch. 👍😁
Ok I have a question, I have old tractors and construction equipment, I would love to put this system on my international 6cylinder gas engine in my Hough wheel loader, would they make a kit for this engine would you suppose? They are the same engine they used in the two ton international trucks back in the day.
@@AutoRestoMod if that system will work in this loader I'd jump over the moon to get it. I love old technology and equipment but I can't imagine trusting your life to this style of ignition system, and it's a wonder we ever won a war using it! The slightest oddity in anything and the points aren't lining up or the condenser gets nuked, or whatever. I'm looking into pertronix now and I might do both of my international power units this way.
Don't mess with the pink wire. There is a relay kit offered by Pertronix now. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode + & - across the coil and 30 amp contacts. Bosch style relay and 15 amp fuse + side of batt to relay contacts.
Hi mates, I've got a Ford F1 1946, but I'm looking for a new replacement on the ignitor eletronic ignition. Would you know the correct one to use? Thanks D
I’m thinking of running this set up in my ‘71 f250 which doesn’t have a tach. What was the pink wire all about? I’m sorry I watched the video my mind just isn’t comprehending it right now. Also if my distributor is worn out and has quite a bit of play in it would this set up still work? 1971 f250 360ci
The pink wire is a resistance wire that comes off of the ignition switch (it plugs into the red with green wire near the switch). It is used to keep points cars from burning the points out too quickly. With the Pertronix you won't have that issue. Thus you can unplug the red with green wire and run the straight 12 volts to the coil.
The factory tach that is wired in series on the positive side of the coil may have a faulty signal or it may not work at all and get fried by the ignition.
Hey Jeff, great video as usual. I have a conundrum. The distributor has a pertronix I. The coil is an older style coil (says only use with resistor wire on it). So your video had me curious. Turned on the key (not started) and measured the voltage at the coil. 5.05 volts...ahh..so there must be a resistor wire. Where would I find that? I have the + and - from the distributor and the lead (+) that must come from the ignition. does that need to be replaced ? In other words run a whole new wire from ignition switch to the coil ? yuck...The car runs great but low idle never seems "perfect". Thoughts ?
Best to run a 12V wire from the ignition switch, run position and Pertronix coil. If it is a 64 to 72 there will be a female plug in Red and Green (I think) coming off the switch right at the switch. Run your 12 volt wire off of that. The Ford resistor wire starts somewhere near the ignition switch and stops at the inside of the firewall. I typically use the female pig tail to do Pertronix.
i have a 68 mustang with a 200 , i tried a pertronix 1 for a while but it went out i heard you mention a 12 volt wire from the ignition,what is the place to come off of for that ?
There is a red with green stripe wire that comes off of the ignition switch with a female end on it. That is an excellent place to tie in. www.tachman.com/wirea.htm
i have a Pertronix Dist. in my 67 289 Mustang i have not tried to start my car yet. i also have a old Mallory tach. that i know works. can i use this tach with the Pertronix Dist.? thanks for any help with this.
Hopefully this is a relevant question. In my 68 mustang I need to wire the electric choke, and the videos and forums have ultimately led me here, because this video gets into specifics about the 'pink' wire. The electric choke is supposed to get 12v, but I'm not sure of the best 'swtiched on' source for that. I'm considering tapping into ignition side coil wire but I assume that being fed by the pink resistance wire would only give me 6v. I could tap into the I terminal on the solenoid, but doesn't that only provide the voltage during crank? I also hear of the stator terminal on the alternator. Lastly, tapping into the red/green ignition switch wire and then to a relay would do the job, but does that mean a splice? I can't just unplug the pig tail and bypass the pink wire, right? Wouldn't that mean then I have to go through the coil with 12v vs. 6 and then to the relay? A bit confused here on which way to go.
Mike, I usually will find an accessory wire in the interior that is 12 volts switched and use that. Most stuff under the hood will be constant 12 or needed by the distributor etc.
I'm working on a 67 mustang with a 390 FE with the Pertronix I and Flame Thrower installed by the previous owner. It sounds like it's got a skip or two misfires. Compression is good. I did the same tests as Cam with my multi meter. My battery has 13V, and drops to 11V when cranking, coil is getting 10V when I crank it over. I tested the coil voltage with key on and only saw 4.2V Does this mean the pink ballast resistor wire is still hooked up and needs to be by-passed? I found the pink wired in but there is no bullet connector. However there is a 4 wire connector plug. Should I just run a wire with ring connector from the positive side of the coil to the back of the ignition switch stud? Do I cut the pink wire? Or do I splice into the red lead for pertronix and go into the bullet connector with the red/green black green? Pertronix sells a power relay kit too, what's the best way to wire it up? I checked with my multimeter from the aluminum plate to negative battery terminal and the reading was 0 Ohms. I believe grounds are not my issue. My coil tested at about 2.5 Ohms with all the other wires removed. Should I upgrade my coil and pertronix module to a II or III? Have you ever tried the Mallory ignition? Do you know if its better than the Pertronix? Does the Petronix I cut out at 5k RPM?
I have a 65 Mustang and I and a ford technician of +40 have been trying to install a new Rally Pac. The car has a MSD high end distributor and matching coil. The clock but no tack response in no matter what we try in the wiring solution. MSD technicians have not been able to help. Some have said to switch to the Pertronics systems. Can anyone help??????
Hi i got a 273 commando v8 bone stock, my old coil gave up, is it ok to install a pertronix 2 or 3 out of the box without the said other ignition systems? or i should go for the 1?
That depends on what you want from the ignition. If you go with any of the Pertronix products, I strongly recommend getting the matching coil. Personally if the engine is not being pushed to it's limits, the Pertronix 1 is hard to beat.
So I installed this in a 64 impala with a 327 started up for a few seconds I turned it off to put hose into gas can so I can run it to set carb and timing right now don’t want to start seems to me no spark now I’m lost do you think my distributor went bad it’s new out the box 😞 $245 down the drain
Very interested in Pertronix, wish i had access to it in the 1970s when i tuned a Chevy 327 V8. When you install a HEI and the Flamethrower Ignition Coil, is it necessary or more effective to upgrade to heavier spark plug wires too? Also should mention to viewers to replace worn distrib cap, rotor and air filter to get the most out of an upgrade or tuneup.
So, I installed the Pertronix 2 with the flamethrower 2 coil,but I'm having some issues with the pink wire. I am currently getting about 10 volts to my coil and the same to the "I" on the solenoid. I'm not sure if my coil is running right, since it should be getting 12. I'm not sure if my engine is bad or this is causing the exhaust smoke I'm getting. Now I took my instrument cluster out at there is only one red with green wire coming off my ignition switch to the pink wire. No double pig tails like shown in this video. Seems to get 12v when pink wire disconnected at on. I would like 12 volts to coil, but is it ok to get 12 to soleniod "I" to? I'm only getting 10 out of it. Is my ignition switch bad?What is my issue. I also noticed there is no Resister in the system, could this be normal? What should I do? 1965 mustang fastback with 289. Cant figure it out.
You need to tap into the red with green wire at the ignition switch, that wire runs directly to the coil. If you are still only getting 10 volts, look to your battery and see what it is getting voltage wise. The Pertronix will run on as little as 9 volts (I think) but won't run optimally. Make sure all the grounds are good and check the system using this video as a guide: ruclips.net/video/ybV3k9S1Wfg/видео.html BUT I'd also recommend using the trouble shooting information from Pertonix.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks! Took me a little while but I found out the Pink wire is "actually" the resister itself. Smh. I was looking for a little blocky filter or something, and after the pink wire goes into firewall it splits off to the selonoid to the "I" post. Which should also be discounted because it just brings power back to the pink resister wire and coil wire. I thought that was just the opposite. The "S" post is the one that starts the starter. Anyway that's the way I did it. Just put a new wire from the ignition switch to coil and discounted everything and all is good. Now I'm working on tuning the car for the smoke and overheating issues. I'm currently watching your videos on that to. Thanks for your help.
When you start the car and then turn the key back to "run" position should positive side of ignition coil drop back down to 6 or should it stay at 12 v range? I'm not using a ballist resistor in the vehicle..thx for the vids and the help!! 83 F150 351w here :p
@@AutoRestoMod Is there an options for hooking factory tach up if not to the coil? I have a 1972 Ford Gran Torino that I have been really hard on re-animating the dash gauges and this is one that is real important to me.
Hello and thanks for the video, Did you put a single point pertronix III on your car ? Or was that one the dual point pertronix III ? you mentioned it was a multi spark system. I guess my real question is, will the dual point petronix III work with my vacuum advance? Thanks again and have a great day !
By the way ,the above question is about my 1966 mustang , 289 ,with a single point vacuum advance distributor. It look like you put the dual point pertronix III in the same distributor i have, LOL screw it , hold my beer , i am way over thinking it , i'm just gonna give it shot with the dual point pertronix III kit and coil , if it don't work i will always wish it would have ! Thanks and have a great day
Glad we could do it! The difference is more to do with mounting plate in a stock distributor than anything else. And the vacuum arm will work on the Pertronix III. =)
I'm not that familiar with Porsche but here is the info from the Pertronix site: To look-up the correct Ignitor, Ignitor II, or Ignitor III kit you must enter the correct information from the housing of your distributor. You will find these numbers / letters either stamped into the bowl or on an attached tag. www.pertronix.com/support/ignitor-kit/default.aspx
So a few years back i shoehorned a 300 into my 68 mustang... eager i threw a points distributor in there just to get it running... then after a few blissful months, my car didnt want to start... i thought it was the coil since i wasnt getting any spark so i went and bought an accel coil... only it didnt have any nuts on it and i lost my other coil’s nuts... being an air force mechanic i tried what i could to make it work and found that bullet connectors fit nicely over the studs of a coil... still it didnt start and it hit me... the ignition condenser... after wasting $100 of troubleshooting a $5 part got my mustang running again
If the factory tach is run off of the negative side of the coil, yes. Ford ran its tachs off of the positive side of the ignition system and that can cause problems. So if the tach gets 12 volts from a switched source and has a wire that goes out to the negative side you are usually OK. We might have to do a Fast Break on this as several people have questioned it.
You should do a video on how to upgrade a "hot" but totally dead Pertronix Ignitor to "old tired" but still working points which was the job I spent yesterday afternoon doing.
I have a 73 torino sport. I have an issue. I'll start it up and drive, and it will shut off while driving. I'll watch at least five to ten minutes and it will start up again. It keeps happening and I can't seem to find the issue.
I'd check the tank for rust. I think that the sock in the tank is probably getting clogged. But I could be wrong. It could also be a heat issue. email me at jford@autorestomod.com and we can go through the issues.
Yes. after the ignition wire and before the coil Usually it is in the harness and not visible. It will be (normally) red with a green stripe coming off the switch then connected as a pink wire in the harness.
@@AutoRestoMod Wow thank you i watched this video before i put pertronix in my f100 and im replacing the distributor so im swapping to another stock unit, i really enjoy your channel your both so helpful! and im jealous of the Ranchero!
I am trying to wade through all the chat rooms ect. Wanting to add these pertronix parts on my 53 gmc truck with the in line 270 in it. What combo do I need to get for my truck? Any help would be great.
I'm looking for application to a 1928 Ford Model A running a 6v positive ground system. I believe I have an Ignitor I (ML-141CCP6) in a Mallory Distributor (it came with a rebuilt Model B engine I purchased). Looking to add a 6v 1.5 ohm epoxy Flame Thrower coil (40111) since I will be using the coil upside down in the Model A. Tips for connecting the Ignitor?
Hey guys, love your channel! I wanna drop a Pertronix in my 63 Galaxie which has the 352 V8. Does my resistor wire only exist under the dash, or is the wire that goes from the firewall to the coil part of the resistor as well? Also, what color is my resistor wire? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words! The resistor wire on most Fords is solid pink and is only in the interior. It plugs in the red with green wire at the ignition switch. You can unplug the red with green and plug a wire in that goes directly to the coil. The pink wire is bonded to the rubber and so you can't easily plug something in place for it. It is better to run a wire with the engine loom.
Thanks for the reply! I have been having a heck of a time with burning points lately. I think my resistor wire is toast. I am seeing 6.1 volts with the key on engine off, but around 11.5 volts while it's running. Points are lasting around an hour before they are too pitted to actually function well enough for the engine to run. The resistor wire may not actually be the problem, but whatever the problem is, I'm done with points! I have the Pertronix III on the shelf and it's going in this weekend! Thanks for your help locating the resistor wire! It's hard to figure out what's what when you're laying on your back under the dash. Thanks for putting out great videos! They are very helpful and very entertaining!
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks again! I've had the Pertronix III in my Galaxie for about a year now and it works great! This video helped a lot with the install. You guys always put out great content. The effort you put into this channel shows. Keep up the great work and thanks again!
I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same bogging. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, Then last night, It acted up again. I'm hearing from some youtubes AND ON THIS VIDEO to run a hot from the streering column to the hot on the pertronix wire?? by doing that, I'm guessing you leave it off the coil if you're doing that type of wiring?
I love your videos, but it seems there is a lot of time spent on unimportant areas and the most critical are covered in a few seconds. Examples in this video are the ignition wire (does the black/green wire run to the ignition cylinder?), the second half of installing the pertronix in the distributor (pretty sure there’s a magnetic piece that connects to the top. Showing how the rest of the cap goes on would be helpful for some I’m sure).
resistance controls current, current that heats a coil, thus the comment early in the video about leaving the key ON = no pulsing current = pure hot current = problem, why not just reconect the pink wire and prove it still runs, or even prove the currnt reading, with key is low because of the installed unit
@@stevenolsen6360 if you run these high energy modules on low voltage. i.e. not 12V you will kill it. this is why you see videos of guys saying their MSD pertronix failed. most likely they didnt have a switched 12V source and just put it in or didnt check it. best to use a relay to bypass any resistor for the high energy aftermarket ignitions.
Wanting to put pertronix in my 71 f100 390. Where do I run the hot wire to can I use what comes through the firewall that runs to the old coil? It has to have a constant 12 volts correct?
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I found a wire that runs to my electric choke can I use that? I think it holds around 13-14 volts. I’m changing coil also if that makes a difference. I saw the pink wire like you showed in this video. Can I just disconnect the pink wire from the red green and black green wire like you did on the car in this video?
first thing, right off the bat, you say to remove the resistor. yes, if you replace the coil with the one with the internal resistor. if not, wire the pertronix to the ign side of the resistor, not the coil side. and leave the resistor inline to the coil. .:-)
Yes. That is an awesome way to do that. We are looking at doing a Pertronix when we 347 the Falcon. Since we have an original Drixco dash tack we want to keep we're going to show how to solve those issues.
I tried the Pertronix 1 on my '65 Mustang 289, could never get the engine to start, went back to the points. Do I need to run battery 12 volts to the system?
Follow what we have done in this video for wiring up your Pertronix. Follow all the procedures to check for proper system operation and you should get a good start.
On some small block Ford distributors, the cam lobe is too low and the magnetic ring does not align with the pick-up on the module. You need to use a O-ring to lift the magnetic ring so it is flush (on top) with the module. The rotor will need to have about an eighth inch removed from the bottom so it does not hit the contacts on the top of the distributor cap. Jeff, AutoRestoMod owes me a T-shirt for this info, I will pick it up in Silver Springs in January.Dick
I don't know if you see replies this old but I was able to get my Pertronix 1 to work. Thanks to you video and my wiring diagram and ability to use a multi-meter, I found that my starter relay was bad. When engaged it did not provide 10-12 volts to terminal "I" and then to the coil and ignition module. I replaced the relay; reinstalled the Pertronix and it started right up! Thanks for your series.
I installed a Pertronix Igniter I on my 68 Fairlane 302 about 20 years ago. I couldn't find a ballast resistor in the engine compartment so I assumed the car didn't come with one. I can't remember if I checked if I was getting 12 volts at the coil or not. Afterwards the car fired right up and has ran ever since. The pink resistor wire you mention is a new one on me! Did Ford do away with the ballast resistor by 1968 and does my car have this pink resistor wire? If so I'm trying to figure out how the Igniter can run on 6 volts. BTW, I did have a weird incident happen several years ago. This was in May after the car had sat over the winter. I drove the car about 10 miles and was idling at the ATM when it started idling really rough. I managed to limp to the parking area and it died. An older gentleman who said he was a mechanic at the local Ford dealership stopped to help me. For some odd reason I was not getting any fire and on top of that there was no fuel after or before the mechanical fuel pump. I eventually ran the battery down trying to start the car and had to have it towed back to my house. After the tow truck driver dropped my car off at the house I decided to see if it would start. I hooked a battery charger to it to give it a quick boost and it fired right up. By this time everything had cooled down. It seemed as if the fuel system had vacuum locked between the tank and the fuel pump. As far as the ignition system goes. the only thing I could find was the rotor or something had chapped one of the wires. So perhaps it was shorting out. I removed the ignitor and installed some heat shrink tubing over the section that was chapped and re-routed the wire or secured it with a nylon tie to the base plate or somewhere. I'm still not sure what happened. Old cars can do weird stuff sometimes!
All Ford up to 1974-75ish have the pink wire. around then Ford went to the Dura-Spark which was a straight 12V system. The pink wire is in the harness after the red with blue wire off of the ignition switch and before the firewall plug. Essentially hidden in the harness wrap. The early Pertonix WILL run on the stock system, it will run better on straight 12V. I find that battery power of a solid 12 volts is a necessity for a Pertronix to ignite the fires. Any less and the car won't fire.
tricky question, sludge can be a lot of things. It can have carbon in it that will plug up the oil screen on the pump. If it were me I'd pull down the engine and get it redone.
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Installed unit on WD45 Allis Chalmers gas engine that had been converted to propane. I converted to 12 volt negative ground before installation. The difference was incredible! After opening plug gaps to .035, and installing hot rod plug wires, starting is much faster, response is better, and even with the lower compression gas engine, tractor is still putting out 45 PTO horse power. All this work was done 20 years ago.
I have a 1975 f100 with a 360 and solid state ignition. My resistance wire runs all the way to the ignition switch. Where do I tie in to get the 12v to coil?
Put one in my son's Pontiac 326. Lasted a few weeks before it took a crap. Tried to get it replaced and all the support wanted to do was come up with reasons why it was my fault. The 2 or 3 might be better, but we dropped a Mallory Unilite in it last year......no problems.
You can run the Pertronix II in a factory tach car. I am running one in my 1967 Shelby. You run the factory wires as you would to the coil , including the black from the ignition unit. The red wire that comes off the Pertronix unit will have to have a direct feed from the ignition switch. I simply pulled a 16 gauge fine stranded wire through the boot that feeds the engines gauges and soldered a ring terminal and heat shrink wrapped the connection. It's to the 12V IGN hot.
Good idea!
@@AutoRestoMod I have 59 y-block and am running pertronix and an aftermarket new tach. is this bad?
Could y’all make a tutorial for running the full 12 Volts? It seems like a common problem, and I can’t find a video or a good article to explain the process. Thanks!
Noted!
Quick question: don't one have to readjust the ignition timing after installation of the ignitor module? I may have missed that in the video. My best from Germany, Jay
and yet again you two have helped me immensely!!! every time I go to do something to my 1964 XM Futura you have answered all my questions and some that I haven't even asked yet :) Please support these guy's everyone it's well worth it! Thank you Jeff and Cam. My T Shirt and Mug are on the way
Junk
Any advice would be appreciated. I have a pertronix module 2 on my golf cart. Any reason why the manufacturer Columbia Par Car had one installed?? My cart just starts without running. Would the module have to be replaced??
So, as earlier I replaced the points and condenser with Pertronix on my 1964 Ford f250. I notice that Pertronix also has a distributor to replace the original distributor. Is replacing the original distributor with the Pertronix worth the investment?
Great video...thanks, do you guys think you could do one with the Pertronix 2001 Ignition Power Relay Kit instead?
So I have a 61 Galaxie that already has an electric ignition module installed in my distributor but I'm not sure if the previous owner bypassed the ballist resistor wire. I could use the multimeter test here to confirm? Does the ballast resistor get bypassed when the car is running or just during cranking?
Great video lads can the retro fit pertronix electronic ignition be used in conjunction with my existing msd 6 many thanks
I'm putting in a pertronix 3 into a 70 dodge challenger 340. is there the pink wire setup in the dodge as well? anything I need to be aware of, especially at the end with wiring? (I'm forcing myself to learn how to work on my car so please don't judge how little I know. thanks in advance.) Btw: great, super clear video.
Thanks for the kind words! I seem to remember that Mopar used a ballast rather than a wire to reduce voltage to the coil. We'd recommend doing some research as Chrysler got into Electronic ignition around '73ish. Put he red Pertronix wire through the firewall to the back of the fuse box; you will have to spice a considerable amount of wire on to the red Pertronix wire. Then connected it to one of the jumper leads on the back of the fuse box (must have 12 volts!) that turns on and off with the ignition. The black Pertronix wire goes to the negative (-) on the coil, and the blue ignition (factory) wire gets connected to the positive (+) on the coil. Leave the factory wires plugged into the stock ballast resistor on the firewall.
Hi Sir, I have a 69 model Volkswagen it’s possible to install the electronic ignition? Thanx for the reply
Pertronix offers distributors and plate replacements for the Volkswagen.
Hey guys, so did you not connect the red PerTronix wire to the positive side of the coil. Looks like you instead , ran it to the 12V ignition correct??
What’s your thought on coil placement? Thought pertronix says coil needs to be upright?
Never had a problem placing them horizontally.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media good to know thanks. Also does coil wire length matter say like 2 feet if you place coil on front shock tower inner fender? Thanks
Hi, I have a 65 Mustang with the stock 289 and am looking at getting the Pertronix 1 and using the stock coil. It is mentioned that the 2 and 3 require 12 volts. Is that the same for the 1? If so, and I run a new bullet connector off the red/green wires like you did, what size wire should I use? After that, do I just leave the existing pink connection off and then tape off the original coil positive end? Just wondering what I do with both ends of that pink/positive coil wire. I've seen some videos where people just pop the unit into the distributor and off they go without even addressing the pink wire situation, but I don't want to mess it up from the get go.
I really recommend using the Pertronix coil with the unit. Even on the Petronix 1. I also will bypass the pink wire by using the bullet connector at the ignition switch (Red with Green with Black female end) and plug a 16 gauge wire into that and run it to the distributor.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the info. I'll have to open up the cluster to see how much of a cluster this is going to be! Is there usually a hole to run the new wire through or have to drill?
*Do you have Pertronix type for Datsun 510 L16 engine year 1972?what is the Pertronix part number for Datsun 510?*
*thanks*
I do not. We don't sell parts we just put them on
I had one of those to burn the wires going to it up after I turned off the switch. I was wondering if it is possible to put a fusible link between the wires to keep this from happening again. I've bought a new igniter that I haven't installed yet because I don't know why the old wires burned up.
Something grounded. Pertronix does not give recommendations for fuseable links.
So your eliminating the pink wire and running the coil straight to the butt connector behind the dash? I’m installing a petronix 3 distributor and coil on a 64 Galaxie. That’s the only part I’m confused about.
Yes. The 3 requires 12 volts. Usually on Fords there is a red with green wire with black female plug you will want to unplug the existing red with green wire with black mail connector wire and plug a wire (I use red) into the female black plug.
Running pertronix flame thrower and igniter wiring is correct runs well but the coil get hot 133 F installed on a Model A Ford is this OK?
I recently bought the flamethrower ii and ignitor ii for a Bosch distributor. I notice in the instructions that you can't use the flamethrower ii with the point system. Any reason why?
We'd recommend calling Pertronix only because we haven't done a Bosch system. We're not sure why a Bosch would be any different, but best to call the manufacturer and quiz them.
I would like to try this on my 1964 Ford f250 pickup with a 292. I already have the part in my distributor that replaced my points and it has been a great system.
Go forward!
great great video. does electronic ignition contribute to better throttle response. my car runs well already.
i have a 1967 fairlane w/ 289 2 barrel.
which one would u recommend for performance? thank you for all you do
Yes and no.
Throttle response is more tied to carb and if ignition timing.
Now, if you're using a points distributor, and you have no way of checking dwell (the amount of hangup caused by the physical wear of mechanical points), then an electronic ignition module may add a little "oomph"
@@perotekku thank you i love points i have to say
I used the resistor wire on my Pertronix and it worked fine. I think it lasted for about 15 yrs until it started failing due to under hood temp. I then went back to points for a few yrs then decided to try Crane X R-i which I've been using since about 2002. The Crane unit is a simpler install where you remove the points and condenser and slide the Crane unit where the points were which use the same holes. On GM points distributors you may need to cut down the Crane screw for the left mounting hole so the vacuum advance can moves freely. The unit have 2 wires that connect to the coil + and - terminals. The Crane unit also has a rev limiter. In both modules I used a MSD Blaster 2 coil. I also used the resistor wire with the Crane unit until I connected a MSD 6AL 6420 in my 1970 Z28.
The base Pertronix will run on the resistor ok according to the company. It's when you move to the II and III that they recommend a move away from the resistor.
I bought a new coil for my factory 67 mustang 289. The original coil has positive and negative. The new one has battery, and distributor. Which wires go to which terminal on the new one? I don't want to burn up a brand new coil by having them hooked up wrong........red to battery, black to distributor?
i have a 69 XR7 with tach, what system check should i be conducting when installing Pertronix I ? thank you and keep up the GrEaT work
We did an episode on setting up the Pertonix with tach: ruclips.net/video/ybV3k9S1Wfg/видео.html
Maybe i missed it, but do you still have to set or adjust the dwell with this Pertronix ignition system? Have seen other videos where there is a "spare" wire from the engine which must be clipped off and crimped onto a new spade terminal for the (+) of the ignition coil, as well as reset the timing.
The dwell is factory set. You'll want to set up a 12 volt wire from a switched source. We plan to go into that on the '72 Mach 1 in a few weeks.
I have a VW motor which has a magneto, no battery, & points.
Can I use this Pertronix to get rid of the points (but also continue to not use a battery)?
This isn't in a car so...I don't need a battery (I also don't have an alternator).
my 64 1/2 mustang has the starter solenoid ignition terminal running off the resistor wire as well. Will it hurt the solenoid to have 12 volts going to it or do I need to keep the resistor wire in place just to satisfy the solenoid?
I have done that.
I have a 64.5 Mustang and the Pertronix 3 setup… does this one need to be straight 12V from the ignition?? Help!!! Thank you!!!
What will I notice after I do this???
Yes. it does require 12 volts. It will offer a more consistent and hotter spark.
I have a 1966 Plym Fury with 383 and I am interested in changing out the points system and go to an electronic system. Do I need to change the distributor or can I go with one of these Pertronix Ignitor Ignition System kits that you show?
Pertronix makes some good stuff for your application.
Would it make a difference if I was to put this in my 1978 ford 351M replacing the factory stuff? Thanks
Honestly the Ford duraspark system is really really good. I don't think you would see enough difference to justify the changover.
@@AutoRestoMod Thank you!
Hey guys, I’m new to Ford. I have a 65 Ford ranchero with a 302 engine with pertronix dist. Can you explain to me how to wire the coil? I see a negative and positive on the dist. I understand the negative side goes to coil and then the positive to positive side? What am I missing?
The red goes to the positive side of the coil (I recommend a Pertronix coil) and the black to the negative side I run a red wire (16-20 gauge) from the ignition switch (there is a plug there on the red with green wire) to the positive side of the coil. That simple. Any issues please feel free to contact me at jford@autorestomod.com
Hi
Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974
My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it.
After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth.
After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100%
Thing that confuse me totaly.
How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible???
My coil got 3 wires on.
1. Ignition wire to +
2. Wire to points on -
3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes)
Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁
The condencor is connected to the wire that go to the points. Condencer is skrewed on the casing of distributor.
The extra wire on the negative on coil go down with the ignition wire.
So there is 2 wires on negative of coil. One go to points and condenser other one go down with ignition wire. Not to condenser or distributor.
I mean its comfusing. Just after i fix points that got short to earth permantly. Starter stop keep cranking and got spark (there was no spark) and car start 100%
I keep on thinking that the extra wire on coil negative side got something to do with starter keep cranking.
That extra wire make my mind spin. 🤔🤔🤔😃
O yes... Took of the ignition wire from starter and connect a wire straight to starter and stil keep cranking. So it were not ignition switch. 👍😁
That could be a starter solenoid issue...if the Fiat has such a thing. Unfamiliar with that car.
Ok I have a question, I have old tractors and construction equipment, I would love to put this system on my international 6cylinder gas engine in my Hough wheel loader, would they make a kit for this engine would you suppose? They are the same engine they used in the two ton international trucks back in the day.
Oddly that is where Pertronix got their start. pertronix.com/categories
@@AutoRestoMod if that system will work in this loader I'd jump over the moon to get it. I love old technology and equipment but I can't imagine trusting your life to this style of ignition system, and it's a wonder we ever won a war using it! The slightest oddity in anything and the points aren't lining up or the condenser gets nuked, or whatever. I'm looking into pertronix now and I might do both of my international power units this way.
Don't mess with the pink wire. There is a relay kit offered by Pertronix now. Or you can get your own but make sure the relay coil has a diode + & - across the coil and 30 amp contacts.
Bosch style relay and 15 amp fuse + side of batt to relay contacts.
Cool thinks for that. This video is a couple years old.
Why not just tap off switched 12v and forget the resistor wire? That seems like a lot less work and one less failure point
Hi mates, I've got a Ford F1 1946, but I'm looking for a new replacement on the ignitor eletronic ignition. Would you know the correct one to use? Thanks D
I’m thinking of running this set up in my ‘71 f250 which doesn’t have a tach. What was the pink wire all about? I’m sorry I watched the video my mind just isn’t comprehending it right now. Also if my distributor is worn out and has quite a bit of play in it would this set up still work? 1971 f250 360ci
The pink wire is a resistance wire that comes off of the ignition switch (it plugs into the red with green wire near the switch). It is used to keep points cars from burning the points out too quickly. With the Pertronix you won't have that issue. Thus you can unplug the red with green wire and run the straight 12 volts to the coil.
AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification Okay perfect thank you.
great video! so I am going to run a pertronix 1 in my mustang. What exactly is it going to do to the tach?
The factory tach that is wired in series on the positive side of the coil may have a faulty signal or it may not work at all and get fried by the ignition.
@@AutoRestoMod only just found this video, I have an ignitor 2 to go in my '73 Mach1, is there a way to solve this problem with the Tach?
Hey Jeff, great video as usual. I have a conundrum. The distributor has a pertronix I. The coil is an older style coil (says only use with resistor wire on it). So your video had me curious. Turned on the key (not started) and measured the voltage at the coil. 5.05 volts...ahh..so there must be a resistor wire. Where would I find that? I have the + and - from the distributor and the lead (+) that must come from the ignition. does that need to be replaced ? In other words run a whole new wire from ignition switch to the coil ? yuck...The car runs great but low idle never seems "perfect". Thoughts ?
Best to run a 12V wire from the ignition switch, run position and Pertronix coil. If it is a 64 to 72 there will be a female plug in Red and Green (I think) coming off the switch right at the switch. Run your 12 volt wire off of that. The Ford resistor wire starts somewhere near the ignition switch and stops at the inside of the firewall. I typically use the female pig tail to do Pertronix.
@@AutoRestoModThanks as always !!!
i have a 68 mustang with a 200 , i tried a pertronix 1 for a while but it went out i heard you mention a 12 volt wire from the ignition,what is the place to come off of for that ?
There is a red with green stripe wire that comes off of the ignition switch with a female end on it. That is an excellent place to tie in. www.tachman.com/wirea.htm
i have a Pertronix Dist. in my 67 289 Mustang i have not tried to start my car yet. i also have a old Mallory tach. that i know works. can i use this tach with the Pertronix Dist.? thanks for any help with this.
Hopefully this is a relevant question. In my 68 mustang I need to wire the electric choke, and the videos and forums have ultimately led me here, because this video gets into specifics about the 'pink' wire. The electric choke is supposed to get 12v, but I'm not sure of the best 'swtiched on' source for that. I'm considering tapping into ignition side coil wire but I assume that being fed by the pink resistance wire would only give me 6v. I could tap into the I terminal on the solenoid, but doesn't that only provide the voltage during crank? I also hear of the stator terminal on the alternator. Lastly, tapping into the red/green ignition switch wire and then to a relay would do the job, but does that mean a splice? I can't just unplug the pig tail and bypass the pink wire, right? Wouldn't that mean then I have to go through the coil with 12v vs. 6 and then to the relay? A bit confused here on which way to go.
Mike, I usually will find an accessory wire in the interior that is 12 volts switched and use that. Most stuff under the hood will be constant 12 or needed by the distributor etc.
I'm working on a 67 mustang with a 390 FE with the Pertronix I and Flame Thrower installed by the previous owner. It sounds like it's got a skip or two misfires. Compression is good. I did the same tests as Cam with my multi meter. My battery has 13V, and drops to 11V when cranking, coil is getting 10V when I crank it over. I tested the coil voltage with key on and only saw 4.2V Does this mean the pink ballast resistor wire is still hooked up and needs to be by-passed? I found the pink wired in but there is no bullet connector. However there is a 4 wire connector plug. Should I just run a wire with ring connector from the positive side of the coil to the back of the ignition switch stud? Do I cut the pink wire? Or do I splice into the red lead for pertronix and go into the bullet connector with the red/green black green? Pertronix sells a power relay kit too, what's the best way to wire it up? I checked with my multimeter from the aluminum plate to negative battery terminal and the reading was 0 Ohms. I believe grounds are not my issue. My coil tested at about 2.5 Ohms with all the other wires removed. Should I upgrade my coil and pertronix module to a II or III? Have you ever tried the Mallory ignition? Do you know if its better than the Pertronix? Does the Petronix I cut out at 5k RPM?
Dura spark 2 ign.system is so much better then points or the other types of kits even better then the hei
That petronix is a pretty slick setup
Boy r u stupid
I have a 65 Mustang and I and a ford technician of +40 have been trying to install a new Rally Pac. The car has a MSD high end distributor and matching coil. The clock but no tack response in no matter what we try in the wiring solution. MSD technicians have not been able to help. Some have said to switch to the Pertronics systems. Can anyone help??????
Terry I would try wiring the tach through the old coil wiring that uses the resistor. You may have to install a MSD Tach Converter #8132.
Hi i got a 273 commando v8 bone stock, my old coil gave up, is it ok to install a pertronix 2 or 3 out of the box without the said other ignition systems? or i should go for the 1?
That depends on what you want from the ignition. If you go with any of the Pertronix products, I strongly recommend getting the matching coil. Personally if the engine is not being pushed to it's limits, the Pertronix 1 is hard to beat.
I have a 67 gmc with a 305v6 would this work with my truck ?
Yep. as long as they carry your model.
Ok, I'm a little confused about were the original lead to the coil went? Is that still hot or is it dead after you took the pink line out of series?
It is still hot if you leave it in the car. In fact if you have an original Ford tach, it can be used to run that.
So I installed this in a 64 impala with a 327 started up for a few seconds I turned it off to put hose into gas can so I can run it to set carb and timing right now don’t want to start seems to me no spark now I’m lost do you think my distributor went bad it’s new out the box 😞 $245 down the drain
Check your voltage at the battery. The Pertronix REALLY likes 12 volts. Anything less than 10 and I've had problems with it not wanting to start.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I will check it out tomorrow thank you so much for the fast reply I was on line ready to order new parts 😳
Very interested in Pertronix, wish i had access to it in the 1970s when i tuned a Chevy 327 V8. When you install a HEI and the Flamethrower Ignition Coil, is it necessary or more effective to upgrade to heavier spark plug wires too? Also should mention to viewers to replace worn distrib cap, rotor and air filter to get the most out of an upgrade or tuneup.
I would say a good set of plug wires is important, they don't have to be bigger.
Will the pertronix iii work in a 1973 Ford Thunderbird 460? Is there a specific model that I need or does it work on lots of Ford v8s?
Yup. That should be a single point.
Yup. Should be a single point.
So, I installed the Pertronix 2 with the flamethrower 2 coil,but I'm having some issues with the pink wire. I am currently getting about 10 volts to my coil and the same to the "I" on the solenoid. I'm not sure if my coil is running right, since it should be getting 12. I'm not sure if my engine is bad or this is causing the exhaust smoke I'm getting. Now I took my instrument cluster out at there is only one red with green wire coming off my ignition switch to the pink wire. No double pig tails like shown in this video. Seems to get 12v when pink wire disconnected at on. I would like 12 volts to coil, but is it ok to get 12 to soleniod "I" to? I'm only getting 10 out of it. Is my ignition switch bad?What is my issue. I also noticed there is no Resister in the system, could this be normal? What should I do? 1965 mustang fastback with 289. Cant figure it out.
You need to tap into the red with green wire at the ignition switch, that wire runs directly to the coil. If you are still only getting 10 volts, look to your battery and see what it is getting voltage wise. The Pertronix will run on as little as 9 volts (I think) but won't run optimally. Make sure all the grounds are good and check the system using this video as a guide: ruclips.net/video/ybV3k9S1Wfg/видео.html BUT I'd also recommend using the trouble shooting information from Pertonix.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks! Took me a little while but I found out the Pink wire is "actually" the resister itself. Smh. I was looking for a little blocky filter or something, and after the pink wire goes into firewall it splits off to the selonoid to the "I" post. Which should also be discounted because it just brings power back to the pink resister wire and coil wire. I thought that was just the opposite. The "S" post is the one that starts the starter. Anyway that's the way I did it. Just put a new wire from the ignition switch to coil and discounted everything and all is good. Now I'm working on tuning the car for the smoke and overheating issues. I'm currently watching your videos on that to. Thanks for your help.
When you start the car and then turn the key back to "run" position should positive side of ignition coil drop back down to 6 or should it stay at 12 v range? I'm not using a ballist resistor in the vehicle..thx for the vids and the help!! 83 F150 351w here :p
I think that if it has points, the coil should see 6 volts on the distributor side. If it is electronic it should be 12 volts.
Curious.....wouldn't it be easier and better to run a HEI distributor made for a ford? Just saying....
I have a 66' F-250 with a 352, will this system work with this truck? It has an aftermarket tach as well
Yep. If it has a distributor and points it will work.
I have a 1964 cadillac Deville 429 Engine which petronix should i consider please?
Do i need to re adjust my timing after installation ?
I always check the timing after a new ignition part is installed. It is just good insurance.
In case you lose your air gap little tool/gauge, I just got off the phone with tech support because I did lose mine. it is .030.
King Galleon thank you.
Great video! Is the tach non-compatibility only on Ignitor 3?
According to Pertronix, yes.
@@AutoRestoMod Is there an options for hooking factory tach up if not to the coil? I have a 1972 Ford Gran Torino that I have been really hard on re-animating the dash gauges and this is one that is real important to me.
Hello and thanks for the video, Did you put a single point pertronix III on your car ? Or was that one the dual point pertronix III ? you mentioned it was a multi spark system. I guess my real question is, will the dual point petronix III work with my vacuum advance? Thanks again and have a great day !
By the way ,the above question is about my 1966 mustang , 289 ,with a single point vacuum advance distributor. It look like you put the dual point pertronix III in the same distributor i have, LOL screw it , hold my beer , i am way over thinking it , i'm just gonna give it shot with the dual point pertronix III kit and coil , if it don't work i will always wish it would have ! Thanks and have a great day
Glad we could do it! The difference is more to do with mounting plate in a stock distributor than anything else. And the vacuum arm will work on the Pertronix III. =)
can i fit ignitor II and III and coil to my porsche 911 S MY1968 2.0L? .Please advise Sir
I'm not that familiar with Porsche but here is the info from the Pertronix site: To look-up the correct Ignitor, Ignitor II, or Ignitor III kit you must enter the correct information from the housing of your distributor. You will find these numbers / letters either stamped into the bowl or on an attached tag. www.pertronix.com/support/ignitor-kit/default.aspx
Nice show. What's up with the Whataburger #?
We like Whataburger! Contact Jeff about why YOU like Whataburger! Jford@autorestomod.com
Texas71Mustang Damn I’m hungry now I miss Texas
So a few years back i shoehorned a 300 into my 68 mustang... eager i threw a points distributor in there just to get it running... then after a few blissful months, my car didnt want to start... i thought it was the coil since i wasnt getting any spark so i went and bought an accel coil... only it didnt have any nuts on it and i lost my other coil’s nuts... being an air force mechanic i tried what i could to make it work and found that bullet connectors fit nicely over the studs of a coil... still it didnt start and it hit me... the ignition condenser... after wasting $100 of troubleshooting a $5 part got my mustang running again
Yep.
I bought petronix for my 77 fiat I’m not sure about the gap between the shaft and the magnetic pick up.
I believe the instructions have the gap listed.
Will the pertronix 2 work with factory tachs?
If the factory tach is run off of the negative side of the coil, yes. Ford ran its tachs off of the positive side of the ignition system and that can cause problems. So if the tach gets 12 volts from a switched source and has a wire that goes out to the negative side you are usually OK. We might have to do a Fast Break on this as several people have questioned it.
That would be great information. Thanks.
You guys are awesome.
Did you remove the condenser?
Yup.
Which kit # would I need for a 239 flathead stock engine
You should do a video on how to upgrade a "hot" but totally dead Pertronix Ignitor to "old tired" but still working points which was the job I spent yesterday afternoon doing.
Believe me we have a truck with points on it and we have vehicles with patronics on them and there are a pros and cons to both sides of that coin lol
I just got this for my customline but I’m trippin on this wire behind the fash stuff now
Ford used a resistor wire when they went to 12 volt systems. If yours was originally a 6 volt there won't be a resistor wire.
Flat head screws should come with a 25 year sentence
Amen brother
Lol
It's called a "common".
A "Flat head" is a Indian
Love the whataburger table number!
We tried for 42 but they are always missing.
Scusate mi sapete dire se serve un condensatore sulla bobina?
Non sul Pertronix.
I have a 73 torino sport. I have an issue. I'll start it up and drive, and it will shut off while driving. I'll watch at least five to ten minutes and it will start up again. It keeps happening and I can't seem to find the issue.
I'd check the tank for rust. I think that the sock in the tank is probably getting clogged. But I could be wrong. It could also be a heat issue. email me at jford@autorestomod.com and we can go through the issues.
Is there a resistor wire in the f100 ignition wiring?
Yes. after the ignition wire and before the coil Usually it is in the harness and not visible. It will be (normally) red with a green stripe coming off the switch then connected as a pink wire in the harness.
@@AutoRestoMod Wow thank you i watched this video before i put pertronix in my f100 and im replacing the distributor so im swapping to another stock unit, i really enjoy your channel your both so helpful! and im jealous of the Ranchero!
can you let me know how to eliminate the distributor and replace it with coil on plug?
MSD and others offer a coil on plug for the 5.0.
I am trying to wade through all the chat rooms ect. Wanting to add these pertronix parts on my 53 gmc truck with the in line 270 in it. What combo do I need to get for my truck? Any help would be great.
I'd do the Pertronix 1. Simple and it will change the idle in a good way.
Does the pink wire exist in the 68 mercury cougar?
Yes.
AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications thank you!
Thank you !!! great install :)
You're welcome!
Thanks for the tip about the ignition key! probably would have burned it up.
I'm looking for application to a 1928 Ford Model A running a 6v positive ground system. I believe I have an Ignitor I (ML-141CCP6) in a Mallory Distributor (it came with a rebuilt Model B engine I purchased). Looking to add a 6v 1.5 ohm epoxy Flame Thrower coil (40111) since I will be using the coil upside down in the Model A. Tips for connecting the Ignitor?
I haven't run 6V stuff before. I'd go online and look for the instruction sheet for the Ignitor and follow them.
Install the need epoxy coil that will work with Pertronix lll and ll and save space too.
Thanks for the input
Hey guys, love your channel! I wanna drop a Pertronix in my 63 Galaxie which has the 352 V8. Does my resistor wire only exist under the dash, or is the wire that goes from the firewall to the coil part of the resistor as well? Also, what color is my resistor wire? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words! The resistor wire on most Fords is solid pink and is only in the interior. It plugs in the red with green wire at the ignition switch. You can unplug the red with green and plug a wire in that goes directly to the coil. The pink wire is bonded to the rubber and so you can't easily plug something in place for it. It is better to run a wire with the engine loom.
Thanks for the reply! I have been having a heck of a time with burning points lately. I think my resistor wire is toast. I am seeing 6.1 volts with the key on engine off, but around 11.5 volts while it's running. Points are lasting around an hour before they are too pitted to actually function well enough for the engine to run. The resistor wire may not actually be the problem, but whatever the problem is, I'm done with points! I have the Pertronix III on the shelf and it's going in this weekend! Thanks for your help locating the resistor wire! It's hard to figure out what's what when you're laying on your back under the dash. Thanks for putting out great videos! They are very helpful and very entertaining!
Hey guys, just wanted to say thanks again! I've had the Pertronix III in my Galaxie for about a year now and it works great! This video helped a lot with the install. You guys always put out great content. The effort you put into this channel shows. Keep up the great work and thanks again!
I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same bogging. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, Then last night, It acted up again.
I'm hearing from some youtubes AND ON THIS VIDEO to run a hot from the streering column to the hot on the pertronix wire?? by doing that, I'm guessing you leave it off the coil if you're doing that type of wiring?
Yes, it should run 12 volts off of the ignition (or a 12 volt switched wire).
Well they say pintos r a fire waiting 2 happen
Fake news :P @@joleenchastain1185
Do I need to fiddle with wiring inside the vehicle if I don't have a tach?
Yep. You'll want to run a 12v wire directly from the ignition. Most of the Ford stuff has a plug at the ignition switch you can tap into it there.
Thanks!
Could you run it from the starter solenoid?
Needs to be from the ignition side, only hot when the car is in "Run".
I love your videos, but it seems there is a lot of time spent on unimportant areas and the most critical are covered in a few seconds. Examples in this video are the ignition wire (does the black/green wire run to the ignition cylinder?), the second half of installing the pertronix in the distributor (pretty sure there’s a magnetic piece that connects to the top. Showing how the rest of the cap goes on would be helpful for some I’m sure).
Good points. The wiring is well explained in the instructions. But this keeps getting mentioned so we'll probably do a video on it soon.
Will this work with my 62 pontiac catalina?
Yep! They offer the Pertonix for almost any points ignition.
which kit would i need for a geo metro?
Isn't the metro already electronic ignition?
the pink steel wire was the over heat protection safety wire,
The pink wire was a Resistor wire that reduced voltage from 12 volts to 6 volts to help points last longer.
resistance controls current, current that heats a coil, thus the comment early in the video about leaving the key ON = no pulsing current = pure hot current = problem, why not just reconect the pink wire and prove it still runs, or even prove the currnt reading, with key is low because of the installed unit
@@stevenolsen6360 if you run these high energy modules on low voltage. i.e. not 12V you will kill it.
this is why you see videos of guys saying their MSD pertronix failed. most likely they didnt have a switched 12V source and just put it in or didnt check it. best to use a relay to bypass any resistor for the high energy aftermarket ignitions.
Wanting to put pertronix in my 71 f100 390. Where do I run the hot wire to can I use what comes through the firewall that runs to the old coil? It has to have a constant 12 volts correct?
Red with green stripe wire off the ignition switch is typical. Put the splice right at the switch.
Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I found a wire that runs to my electric choke can I use that? I think it holds around 13-14 volts. I’m changing coil also if that makes a difference. I saw the pink wire like you showed in this video. Can I just disconnect the pink wire from the red green and black green wire like you did on the car in this video?
nice whataburger tent shot.
Right?!
first thing, right off the bat, you say to remove the resistor. yes, if you replace the coil with the one with the internal resistor. if not, wire the pertronix to the ign side of the resistor, not the coil side. and leave the resistor inline to the coil. .:-)
Yes. That is an awesome way to do that. We are looking at doing a Pertronix when we 347 the Falcon. Since we have an original Drixco dash tack we want to keep we're going to show how to solve those issues.
I tried the Pertronix 1 on my '65 Mustang 289, could never get the engine to start, went back to the points. Do I need to run battery 12 volts to the system?
Follow what we have done in this video for wiring up your Pertronix. Follow all the procedures to check for proper system operation and you should get a good start.
On some small block Ford distributors, the cam lobe is too low and the magnetic ring does not align with the pick-up on the module. You need to use a O-ring to lift the magnetic ring so it is flush (on top) with the module. The rotor will need to have about an eighth inch removed from the bottom so it does not hit the contacts on the top of the distributor cap. Jeff, AutoRestoMod owes me a T-shirt for this info, I will pick it up in Silver Springs in January.Dick
HAHAHAHA! Good deal. Dick, as soon as we get enough dough coming in I will!
I don't know if you see replies this old but I was able to get my Pertronix 1 to work. Thanks to you video and my wiring diagram and ability to use a multi-meter, I found that my starter relay was bad. When engaged it did not provide 10-12 volts to terminal "I" and then to the coil and ignition module. I replaced the relay; reinstalled the Pertronix and it started right up! Thanks for your series.
I installed a Pertronix Igniter I on my 68 Fairlane 302 about 20 years ago. I couldn't find a ballast resistor in the engine compartment so I assumed the car didn't come with one. I can't remember if I checked if I was getting 12 volts at the coil or not. Afterwards the car fired right up and has ran ever since. The pink resistor wire you mention is a new one on me!
Did Ford do away with the ballast resistor by 1968 and does my car have this pink resistor wire? If so I'm trying to figure out how the Igniter can run on 6 volts.
BTW, I did have a weird incident happen several years ago. This was in May after the car had sat over the winter.
I drove the car about 10 miles and was idling at the ATM when it started idling really rough. I managed to limp to the parking area and it died. An older gentleman who said he was a mechanic at the local Ford dealership stopped to help me. For some odd reason I was not getting any fire and on top of that there was no fuel after or before the mechanical fuel pump. I eventually ran the battery down trying to start the car and had to have it towed back to my house.
After the tow truck driver dropped my car off at the house I decided to see if it would start. I hooked a battery charger to it to give it a quick boost and it fired right up. By this time everything had cooled down.
It seemed as if the fuel system had vacuum locked between the tank and the fuel pump.
As far as the ignition system goes. the only thing I could find was the rotor or something had chapped one of the wires. So perhaps it was shorting out. I removed the ignitor and installed some heat shrink tubing over the section that was chapped and re-routed the wire or secured it with a nylon tie to the base plate or somewhere.
I'm still not sure what happened. Old cars can do weird stuff sometimes!
All Ford up to 1974-75ish have the pink wire. around then Ford went to the Dura-Spark which was a straight 12V system. The pink wire is in the harness after the red with blue wire off of the ignition switch and before the firewall plug. Essentially hidden in the harness wrap. The early Pertonix WILL run on the stock system, it will run better on straight 12V. I find that battery power of a solid 12 volts is a necessity for a Pertronix to ignite the fires. Any less and the car won't fire.
i'm an HEI guy myself but this is pretty cool too
Awesome video!
Thanks!
Hey jeff how can i get sludge out of my 1975 scout international engine?
tricky question, sludge can be a lot of things. It can have carbon in it that will plug up the oil screen on the pump. If it were me I'd pull down the engine and get it redone.
How about showing how you set the gap
Any more the gap is factory set.
Para comprar el ignición eléctrica.
Summitracing.com