Gordon... see the braided ground strap that comes up from the back of the engine. that like every other ford ranger is on the wrong mounting point.. its supposed to be under the stud just to the right of the computer. you can see the proper green stud next to your hand at 4:00 in the video . there is an order to the wires and support there.. please spend a few minutes and wire brush them with them apart.. you need to disconnect the negative battery post to do this.. disconnect the negative battery.. disconnect the computer connector.. take the nut off the green stud that has the computer harness support tab.. take out the green stud.. there should be 2 ring terminals with black wires out of the computer harness.. wire brush the ring terminals. the mounting area.. take the bolt out and free up the braided ground wire from the wiper mount bushing.. put the bolt back in.. wire brush the end of the braided cable ring terminal. reassemble.. the braided ring terminal and the 2 black wires with ring terminals go on the stud against the firewall.. so the hex pinches them tight against the firewall.. then you can hook the computer back up and put the support tab on top of the green stud and a big usually plastic nut. reconnect the negative battery post and you are ready to go.. the computer will have to relearn idle. so you may need to hold the throttle open slightly to get it started.. hold the RPMS at 2000 and slowly come back to idle. this will allow the computer to relearn the idle air position .. this takes about 5 minutes.. you may have to free up some slack in the braided wire if it won't reach.. the rubber bushings for the wiper are a poor ground connection.. it was just faster for ford to hook the wires there.. why perform this.. the battery puts out around 12.65 volts.. the alternator is putting out 14.6volts. and its putting it out on the negative side. since almost everything other than the alternator and starter are grounded to the body.. this braided ground from the engine to the firewall is a critical short cut for the electrons to get to the body.. other than that the electrons have to go up the big negative battery cable and then down the small cable to the inner fender then continuing to the rest of the body.. the braided ground strap really carries quite a few amps during normal operation. don't believe me.. throw a DC amp clamp around it.. and i know.. everybody says it worked ok for years.. its just wrong and most of the time the better connection really makes a big difference that you will notice. if you look at the bottom of most ford pack type coils.. if the potting material is cracked.. the coil usually needs to be replaced. do you have a scan tool for OBD2 cars and pickups.?? you can get them for around 35 bucks online. that work with your phone.. depending on which phone you have.. Android uses blue tooth versions and Iphones use wifi..
Gordon you it the nail on the head. Mine was kicking and bucking and the culprit was the ignition coil. I have a 2002 Ranger Edge I replaced the coil and everything Ok. 👍
Thanks for the video man, sounds like I have the same problem on my 01 windstar, every time I step on the gas a little hard, I can hear a like a ticking noise, and feels like kicking. 👍
MAF sensor is mostly the issue most MAFs help the transmission shift smoothly. Sometimes for a split second the MAF can read wrong causing a rough shift like buck.
I couldn't bring myself to watch your last video on the abandoned Kitty in your rental house, glad that people possessing ethics such as them are only a small percentage of the human population. Enjoy watching your videos and learning from them.
The cat was ok, a little hungry and scared that's all. The video is about the cat eating a mouse she caught in my house. My dog doesn't like the cat yet so the cat has to stay in a cage when I let the dog in.
It’s funny while I watch this video I decided to read the comments and yours caught my eye! Now recent it’s almost less then 2 months my 2000 Lexus ES 300 v6 3.0 been bucking at low speed and discover cracked in my intake hose then it stop then 2 weeks later it came back and when I accelerate at 40 and stay steady it start bucking and I took it to Lexus they can’t figure it out bc no engine check light! But I notice when I put injectors cleaner it started running better other day for 2 days then started back! So I wondering if it my coil pack too
I have a 2003 F150 4.2 V6 5-speed manual that is bucking while accelerating. I have been assuming the problem is something in the drivetrain. But it might be this. I'm going to check it out. Thanks for the video.
Hi Gordon - had the same problem on my windstar but it was a damn pain in the ass to replace because there was so much to take apart to get at it and replace it also while everything was exposed changed the spark plugs / spark plug wires - put everything back together and the windstar ran great with good pep - wish my coil was easy like yours was !
I’m having this issue and have been searching the internet for weeks and I havnt found ANYTHING. Your even the first person to have the same issue as me.
I've got a 97 2.3l 4cyl that is bucking REALLY hard in first, to the point where I just shift up ASAP even if it's early. The bucking is still there in higher gears, but exponentialy less noticable. I can't for the life of me find anything on this issue. All threads I have found mentioning it come to no solution.
@19DUBBS Not yet! Still researching. No codes being thrown. I’m thinking it’s either the plugs/coils or the torque converter or something like that. I’ve just been driving around with the OD off for the time being! Lol
What a coincidence... I too, have a truck that kicks and bucks when I accelerate. I should throw a coil pack and plug wires at it, but I'm afraid that my Cummins rep is going to laugh at me for trying to be a D-I-Y guy :) Of course, you know I'm joking a bit here, not about the bucking and kicking, mind you. It's a systems issue in my case; TCS, ABS, and totalBS systems are conflicting with sensors and the main ECM, resulting in power cuts when the wheels aren't even slipping. Gosh I hate computerized vehicles. Gimmie back my old 3306B or 3406B. You take care of that little Ranger, it looks good. Hopefully it'll last you another 15 years. How's your new buddy doing? Have you selected a name for her yet? If you didn't have enough suggestions, here's one more.... How about "Sweetie" ? She looks like a little sweetie.
So Ive been having problems with my 00 ranger XLT , each time I kick off, it bucks, same thing when I come to a complete stop. And then when I'm in the lower gears, the cars rpm will reach at least 4000 rpms before shifting into the next higher gear. And finally, when I'm on the high way, at a steady speed or gradually accelerating, it kicks and bucks here and there and is very annoying. Now is this the same issue in the video, or is this a transmission issue? Someone please give me advice, I just got this ranger
So I have a 94 2.3L I replaced fuel injectors, spark plugs,wires, both coil packs, fuel filter, about to do the fuel pump it needs it anyway but I still have that spit and sputter bogging down periodically. I hope I don't have a bad cylinder but if I did it would do it all the time. I'm at a loss not sure what else it could be,,, this is a great truck other than that spitting and sputtering. I have a OBD1and no I haven't checked codes yet but will look into that
Solid state ignition came out in the early '70s but still used a distributor. This type of coil system on this motor came out in the early '80s and uses a crank sensor instead of a distributor. Some cars still used a distributor for a long time after that and maybe still do, I don't know, I'm not in that work anymore.
Can you be more specific about "solid state ignition"? I had a '76 Mercury that had "solid state ignition" module. My '81 Ford Fairmont had the exact same module. My '78 Mercury Cougar also used the exact same ignition module.
@@stanpatterson5033 Thats what Im asking- When distributorless ignitions became the norm- No Points/condensors- i didn't start driving until 1987- So i was just asking Gordon cause he worked on the older stuff.....And when Coil over plugs became the norm.(guessing the early 90's)......I Never worked on Cars as Much as I do heavy truck.
I was on the highway today in Drive mode about 60mph and then heard loud rev as if car went to neutral last for a second or two then heard a knock before it caught gear again and continued normal driving. I never touched the shifter and it was on D whole time. Any clues?
@@victorpryor9403 Thanks for the tip. I rechecked kiddies at better temperatures and trans fluid turned out too high so I syphoned some of it out and then topped it back to proper level with a can of “Slip Stop” from AutoZone. Il drive it for a few days and see if it goes away before I mess with anything else. I’m a young DIYer with no experience but I’d rather fix it myself until I have no choice before consider a shop.
@@monchisdavalos2032 Il get back later today or tomorrow when I reinstall the transmission 😂 I rebuilt it myself just finished last night just gotta put back on vehicle. Never done any thing similar but I’m a quick learner and handy so I researched and did some he sonofagun by myself. Took two weeks slowly after work I would do little bits. Upon opening it up, I found a few things wrong: 1)Sprag was flipped and spinning both clockwise and counter clockwise instead of locking clockwise like it should, valve gasket has small crack/tear at the edge by pressure control solenoid, and finally frictions and steels and bands were all burned. Aside from that everything is in order but I took extra steps and changed torque converter (even though I wasn’t sure bits bad) and also the shaft sensor located on center support within the barrel of the trans case. I did not change the valve body or any solenoids only because they looked okay but if this washing doesn’t work I would have to think it’s the valve body as I was very methodical and careful in rebuilding/replacing the other parts.
@@monchisdavalos2032 Update: Transmission is fixed!! Spend about $500 or so on hard parts, spend two weeks or so working on it after work, and today I finished put it back on and tested it. Works like new!!! Glad I chose to do it myself even though I was scared from no experience whatsoever. Learned a lot and saved alot.
U reset the computer and it went to default... if its fixed after that, then that means u changed the right part and didn't know which one it was, because u made the ecm relearn. U mightve had it fixed 3 parts ago.
Thank you so much for posting this video! That’s exactly what just fixed my same problem on a 2007 Ford Ranger XL 3.0 V6 4x4! Your awesome!!!!
Gordon... see the braided ground strap that comes up from the back of the engine. that like every other ford ranger is on the wrong mounting point.. its supposed to be under the stud just to the right of the computer. you can see the proper green stud next to your hand at 4:00 in the video . there is an order to the wires and support there.. please spend a few minutes and wire brush them with them apart.. you need to disconnect the negative battery post to do this..
disconnect the negative battery.. disconnect the computer connector.. take the nut off the green stud that has the computer harness support tab.. take out the green stud.. there should be 2 ring terminals with black wires out of the computer harness.. wire brush the ring terminals. the mounting area.. take the bolt out and free up the braided ground wire from the wiper mount bushing.. put the bolt back in.. wire brush the end of the braided cable ring terminal. reassemble.. the braided ring terminal and the 2 black wires with ring terminals go on the stud against the firewall.. so the hex pinches them tight against the firewall.. then you can hook the computer back up and put the support tab on top of the green stud and a big usually plastic nut. reconnect the negative battery post and you are ready to go.. the computer will have to relearn idle. so you may need to hold the throttle open slightly to get it started.. hold the RPMS at 2000 and slowly come back to idle. this will allow the computer to relearn the idle air position .. this takes about 5 minutes.. you may have to free up some slack in the braided wire if it won't reach..
the rubber bushings for the wiper are a poor ground connection.. it was just faster for ford to hook the wires there..
why perform this.. the battery puts out around 12.65 volts.. the alternator is putting out 14.6volts. and its putting it out on the negative side. since almost everything other than the alternator and starter are grounded to the body.. this braided ground from the engine to the firewall is a critical short cut for the electrons to get to the body.. other than that the electrons have to go up the big negative battery cable and then down the small cable to the inner fender then continuing to the rest of the body.. the braided ground strap really carries quite a few amps during normal operation. don't believe me.. throw a DC amp clamp around it..
and i know.. everybody says it worked ok for years.. its just wrong and most of the time the better connection really makes a big difference that you will notice.
if you look at the bottom of most ford pack type coils.. if the potting material is cracked.. the coil usually needs to be replaced.
do you have a scan tool for OBD2 cars and pickups.?? you can get them for around 35 bucks online. that work with your phone.. depending on which phone you have.. Android uses blue tooth versions and Iphones use wifi..
Gordon you it the nail on the head. Mine was kicking and bucking and the culprit was the ignition coil. I have a 2002 Ranger Edge I replaced the coil and everything Ok. 👍
So many things can cause that problem, I'm glad you got yours fixed.
your voice is a perfect mix between Homer Simpson and Johnny Cash
😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the video man, sounds like I have the same problem on my 01 windstar, every time I step on the gas a little hard, I can hear a like a ticking noise, and feels like kicking. 👍
What sucks is doing all that and the problem still exists with no codes.
Thank you sir!!! So much appreciated. My 2005 Ford Taurus does the same exact thing for the longest time. I’m gonna give this a try
My trans fluid looks to be good tho. So I don’t think that’s the issue..
MAF sensor is mostly the issue most MAFs help the transmission shift smoothly. Sometimes for a split second the MAF can read wrong causing a rough shift like buck.
I couldn't bring myself to watch your last video on the abandoned Kitty in your rental house, glad that people possessing ethics such as them are only a small percentage of the human population.
Enjoy watching your videos and learning from them.
The cat was ok, a little hungry and scared that's all. The video is about the cat eating a mouse she caught in my house. My dog doesn't like the cat yet so the cat has to stay in a cage when I let the dog in.
Bad Coilpack They Go Bad On The 3.0 V6 All The Time Great Catch Gordon 😀👍🏼🧰👨🏼🔧 I’ve Replaced 20 or So Over The Years
It’s funny while I watch this video I decided to read the comments and yours caught my eye! Now recent it’s almost less then 2 months my 2000 Lexus ES 300 v6 3.0 been bucking at low speed and discover cracked in my intake hose then it stop then 2 weeks later it came back and when I accelerate at 40 and stay steady it start bucking and I took it to Lexus they can’t figure it out bc no engine check light! But I notice when I put injectors cleaner it started running better other day for 2 days then started back! So I wondering if it my coil pack too
God I hope not
That’s a f**cking FORD RANGER❤😂
Chasing problems. Ain't it a blast? Thanks Gordon.
My 04 mustang was doing same thing I replaced the ignition coil and it ran like champ afterwards and so damn smooth thanks my friend
Did it used to happen when u press pedal all the way? Like it wouldn’t accelerate
@@al3x555 only between 35 through 50 just vibration
@@tbirdfan93 ahh mine won’t accelerate when pressing whole pedal down it just stutter sound
@@al3x555 mine does have a short delay on acceleration which it feels like at times I'm towing a damn trailor at times lol
@@al3x555 ever find the problem? I have the same
I just did head gaskets on my 3.0. they were blown jacket to chamber and cylinder to cylinder.
The idle adjustment sensor map sensor have been the culprit of my similar problems on my 2.3 ranger
I have a 94 2.3L ill check this out I've everything else but this
I'll be waiting for the bucking and Kicking noise
I have a 2003 F150 4.2 V6 5-speed manual that is bucking while accelerating. I have been assuming the problem is something in the drivetrain. But it might be this. I'm going to check it out. Thanks for the video.
I hope it is this easy to fix, you might plug in a code reader too.
Unhooking the battery reset the warning light. It will come back on eventually if you still have a problem.
Just regular maintenance. Lol! Too bad more people don't know how-to.
It should be part of owning and operating a vehicle. Basic knowledge 101.
Hi Gordon - had the same problem on my windstar but it was a damn pain in the ass to replace because there was so much to take apart to get at it and replace it also while everything was exposed changed the spark plugs / spark plug wires - put everything back together and the windstar ran great with good pep - wish my coil was easy like yours was !
Mine is kicking and bucking. But when I take it off of overdrive, it stops doing that. Why is that?
I’m having this issue and have been searching the internet for weeks and I havnt found ANYTHING. Your even the first person to have the same issue as me.
Have you found the issue?
I've got a 97 2.3l 4cyl that is bucking REALLY hard in first, to the point where I just shift up ASAP even if it's early. The bucking is still there in higher gears, but exponentialy less noticable. I can't for the life of me find anything on this issue. All threads I have found mentioning it come to no solution.
Try cleaning your fuel injectors
@19DUBBS Not yet! Still researching. No codes being thrown. I’m thinking it’s either the plugs/coils or the torque converter or something like that. I’ve just been driving around with the OD off for the time being! Lol
I’ve got a 2000 ranger with 4.0 with almost 200,000 miles and it’s still going 👍
Hella ya brother me too. 158800 today
Man I had a 4.0 5speed 2wd them things would fly. Miss mine
Man I had a 4.0 5speed 2wd them things would fly. Miss mine
Holy shit. Hank Hill?
165.00 with tax at Crappy Tire. The dealer price would be unreal.
That's a good lookin' truck. I have it's twin but with a 2.3L.
The mechanic at my job where I park my big truck has one like yours, I think it's a '99 Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video? Not sure if I can do the change myself, but at least I have SOME idea.
What a coincidence... I too, have a truck that kicks and bucks when I accelerate. I should throw a coil pack and plug wires at it, but I'm afraid that my Cummins rep is going to laugh at me for trying to be a D-I-Y guy :) Of course, you know I'm joking a bit here, not about the bucking and kicking, mind you. It's a systems issue in my case; TCS, ABS, and totalBS systems are conflicting with sensors and the main ECM, resulting in power cuts when the wheels aren't even slipping. Gosh I hate computerized vehicles. Gimmie back my old 3306B or 3406B. You take care of that little Ranger, it looks good. Hopefully it'll last you another 15 years. How's your new buddy doing? Have you selected a name for her yet? If you didn't have enough suggestions, here's one more.... How about "Sweetie" ? She looks like a little sweetie.
Same with my 2004 Nissan pathfinder. Can’t figure out what it is
2003 Rangercoil
I got a 2018 ford edge sport
It jerks from 1st gear into 2nd gear, otherwise it runs perfectly
Any idea what it could be?
So Ive been having problems with my 00 ranger XLT , each time I kick off, it bucks, same thing when I come to a complete stop. And then when I'm in the lower gears, the cars rpm will reach at least 4000 rpms before shifting into the next higher gear. And finally, when I'm on the high way, at a steady speed or gradually accelerating, it kicks and bucks here and there and is very annoying. Now is this the same issue in the video, or is this a transmission issue? Someone please give me advice, I just got this ranger
same here, I have a 02 3.0 xlt I can't seem to find info either.
If you found out what was wrong please get back to me I’m having the same issue on my 98 standard ranger
So I have a 94 2.3L I replaced fuel injectors, spark plugs,wires, both coil packs, fuel filter, about to do the fuel pump it needs it anyway but I still have that spit and sputter bogging down periodically. I hope I don't have a bad cylinder but if I did it would do it all the time. I'm at a loss not sure what else it could be,,, this is a great truck other than that spitting and sputtering. I have a OBD1and no I haven't checked codes yet but will look into that
ever have any luck ? i’m having the same problem in my 2.3
Have you ever had intermittent fuel knock or injector knock on your Detroit?
Gordon that's nice for a 03 !
What code?
Nice lil truck
Am having the say probable with my toyota .kicking when accelerating slow
2000 Ranger 3.0 hesitating on acceleration sometimes it's worse than others
Well, this video is what was wrong with mine, I hope you find what's wrong with yours. Thanks for watching.
Look on the back side of the coil
Will this work for an 05 civic?
...but...if you take the battery cable off...it will take a while for the computer to reset...did the code come back?...
Was 87' the first or second year with that Solid State ignition?
Solid state ignition came out in the early '70s but still used a distributor. This type of coil system on this motor came out in the early '80s and uses a crank sensor instead of a distributor. Some cars still used a distributor for a long time after that and maybe still do, I don't know, I'm not in that work anymore.
Can you be more specific about "solid state ignition"? I had a '76 Mercury that had "solid state ignition" module. My '81 Ford Fairmont had the exact same module. My '78 Mercury Cougar also used the exact same ignition module.
@@stanpatterson5033 Thats what Im asking- When distributorless ignitions became the norm- No Points/condensors- i didn't start driving until 1987- So i was just asking Gordon cause he worked on the older stuff.....And when Coil over plugs became the norm.(guessing the early 90's)......I Never worked on Cars as Much as I do heavy truck.
@@StayingBack71 I see what you mean now.
@@StayingBack71 1973 was when Ford went to the Duraspark ignitions!
Fuel filter
Is he wearing a grille suite lol
I was on the highway today in Drive mode about 60mph and then heard loud rev as if car went to neutral last for a second or two then heard a knock before it caught gear again and continued normal driving. I never touched the shifter and it was on D whole time. Any clues?
Knock sensor can make a buck or transmission shift solenoid or a couple other but mostly check those I'm not there to check so idk but good luck
@@victorpryor9403 Thanks for the tip. I rechecked kiddies at better temperatures and trans fluid turned out too high so I syphoned some of it out and then topped it back to proper level with a can of “Slip Stop” from AutoZone. Il drive it for a few days and see if it goes away before I mess with anything else. I’m a young DIYer with no experience but I’d rather fix it myself until I have no choice before consider a shop.
Did you fix the problem?
@@monchisdavalos2032 Il get back later today or tomorrow when I reinstall the transmission 😂 I rebuilt it myself just finished last night just gotta put back on vehicle. Never done any thing similar but I’m a quick learner and handy so I researched and did some he sonofagun by myself. Took two weeks slowly after work I would do little bits. Upon opening it up, I found a few things wrong: 1)Sprag was flipped and spinning both clockwise and counter clockwise instead of locking clockwise like it should, valve gasket has small crack/tear at the edge by pressure control solenoid, and finally frictions and steels and bands were all burned. Aside from that everything is in order but I took extra steps and changed torque converter (even though I wasn’t sure bits bad) and also the shaft sensor located on center support within the barrel of the trans case. I did not change the valve body or any solenoids only because they looked okay but if this washing doesn’t work I would have to think it’s the valve body as I was very methodical and careful in rebuilding/replacing the other parts.
@@monchisdavalos2032 Update: Transmission is fixed!! Spend about $500 or so on hard parts, spend two weeks or so working on it after work, and today I finished put it back on and tested it. Works like new!!! Glad I chose to do it myself even though I was scared from no experience whatsoever. Learned a lot and saved alot.
U reset the computer and it went to default... if its fixed after that, then that means u changed the right part and didn't know which one it was, because u made the ecm relearn. U mightve had it fixed 3 parts ago.
How’s the trucking business?
Trucking is still going well at this point. Thanks for asking.
Gordon Robertson DIY how about now
@@djsweglord9909 busier than ever. Shortage of drivers.
Si no
my PCV valve shoulder cost 7 dollars new