My uncle Randy used to do stuff like this all the time, he always had 2 engines he was building on at all times, one in his basement and one in his garage. He used to do model cars with me when I was real little, then when I turned 12 he started teaching me how to repair, rebuild, and refurbish engines and transmissions. I'm 28 years old now and I am ASE certified on powertrains(auto and manual systems), I hope to be a master and have my own shop one day.
@clickity777 hey bud, its been three years since your comment and i really hope you doin well and got a little closer to your master and maybe the own shop? Keep it up, greets from germany!
I had a Vortech SC 383 in my 88 Camaro in the early 90s. I programmed the DFI ECU myself. It had a Lingenfelter box-ram. No intercooler and was set up for what they now call Pro Tour. I was 20 years ahead of the curve. 3.23 rear end and would still not get traction with slicks. You could melt the tires at 60MPH. I transplanted a T-56 Six speed into it. Centerforce had to design a new Kevlar disk to hold the power. It ran low 11s on pump gas without intercooler and 10 lbs. boost.
I think it would of been cool to see the stage one with the supercharger that way you see a street combo and pump 91 only to show what a guy at home can do
11.75:1 compression with 36° total timing, 2.08/1.65 valves in 225cc intake runner heads 254/264 @ .050" and 550" lift straight across cam, Victor Jr intake with a Holley 780 double pumper made the absolute sickest thing I've ever owned for a SBC for street/strip use! I got away with running on 94 on the streets and a mixed blend for the strips. It was well into the mid to high 500s on the HP and almost 600 foot pounds of torque NA! In my 86 Cutlass 442 G body, I found out how weak the chassis of the G body's were! That engine wanted to spit that rear end out the side of my Cutlass even on 12.5" street tires. Ended up adding additional bracing to the chassis, Lakewood control arm's with Lakewood spring's and drag shocks front and rear. It would twist that poor car so badly it would ride halfway down the 1/4 on the passenger front tire only. Tried the old trick of installing a single air bag in the passenger rear spring and that was the golden ticket for the body twisting. It left a better and more consistent light and would lift both tires on the trans brake and 2 step. All this with running dual 3.5" stepped up to 4" race flow Flowmasters and turn downs before the axle. She was a consistent mid to high 10 second car! I had a stock block 2 bolt mains and factory case crank! With God knows how many passes on the engine well into the hundreds of them without a problem. I traded it sadly off to a friend at the time who puts it in a fully setup all steel minus the hood Chevelle and more gearing than I wanted in my Cutlass which I had 3.73:1s and he had 4.88:1s, that little 406 got his heavy Shovel instantly into the Low 10s and now not being satisfied with what he pulled for times he goes and adds a nitrous kit. I forwarned him that it's not setup for nitrous oxide and should really be torn down and the right pistons and rings replaced along with a stronger crank. But he started out gradually with a 75HP shot and it gets him into the high 9s Now! SMFH the car ran all day long in the high 9s without any problems. I told him to NOT get stupid and add anymore to it! And of course what does he do? Steps it up to a 150Hp shot later that season. Wanting I guess to make it into the high 8s?!? Welp the little 406 made 2 solid passes unbelievably with the 150hp shots of nitrous and pulled that Chevelle into the high 8s like he wished for. BUT being ignorant, he was beyond pressing his luck with it, and was warned more than once. So his 3rd and final pass on the old and now tired 406 with the 150 shot was more than enough for the pistons to withstand, being stupid and sloppy he wasn't keeping an eye on the plugs. One cylinder misfired halfway down the track and literally exploded the one piston into a million pieces! With nothing guiding the rod at 7800 rpms exactly what you can picture happening happened. That 5.7" H Beam rod cut through the cylinder wall and ripped the rod in half and the remaining portion of the swinging rod goes and cuts through the entire engine block and halfway down the oil pan. Eagle rods are awesome cuz it never let go on the big end! It was literally somehow twisted so badly that's what caused the rod to snap off maybe as the wrist pin dug into the cast iron block? No clue? So yeah unfortunately being ignorant gets you a pile of trash at the end of the day. BUT this moron wasn't bothered by the fact he just ruined a perfectly good SBC and set of Cantfeild aluminum heads along with thousands of dollars in part's and machine work I did myself. It's a sad way to end a story for me, but for my buddy he got bragging rights of pushing a SBC into the 8s in a small tire all steel shovel I guess? It's definitely impressive stuff especially now knowing what's really capable of a 406 in stock trim block and cranks! The crank somehow managed to be unscathed from that aftermath? The cam was broken 6 rods and pistons were still like New and the best part is he drove it back to the pits that way! The track was a complete mess of course but he didn't care SMFH. So lesson learned, if he would have at least took half my advice and replaced the pistons/rings, that engine just may have held up at least much longer if not the season on the 150 shot? BUT we'll really never know now? The fact is that these engine's are not given the respect they deserve nor are the 377 De-strokers! A 400 block with a 350 crank that will rev to the moon and like it there! Talking 8500 all day long. I never had any issues with my 406 revving either! It was still pulling hard at 7K so it was shifted between 72&7800 on the track and even on the street when cops weren't in ear shot of the engine LMAO! So yeah these engine's don't have to be special BS blocks or even cranks! The journals on the 400 are bigger than any SBC out there so they are actually much stronger than people give them the credit they deserve! And No! It never once overheated on either of us! Ran @ 180 no matter what the temp was outside! It would actually run cold for gasoline on the cold nights! That's a BS myth about the 400s from retards not knowing the 400s have steam holes in the heads, so when you put a replacement SBC head on them and don't know to drill 2 small holes on each end of the face of the heads? They'll get vapor locked and overheat I'm sure! They also do NOT throw connecting rod's even if you run the 5.56" Rod! The only reason I switched to a 5.7" was the piston availability issue for the short rods, they don't exist. So yeah they are without a doubt shout little engine's! Hope this helps or even inspires someone else looking to build one one day?
Just wanna say I read all of that, I admire your dedication to story telling. To pitch in I'm working on a 383 build, bought a 4 bolt 350 off marketplace, came with double hump 2.02 1.60 valve heads, plan on going 4340 forged 3.75" crank, H beam rods, hypereutectic pistons, 11.5:1, debating on Victor Jr or a dual quad tunnel ram... expensive. Going in an 85 squarebody, was thinkin about putting it in my 85 cutlass but after reading about your experience I'll pass lol.
The 383 had forged rods/pistons/ 4 bolt mains. It would have been fine at 1k. That new build could handle closer to 2k. Ive had a stock block forged piston/rod 3800 v6 doing 1k for 7 years.
Good job guys,learning a lot thanks for showing telling us guys.I am working on my 460v8 fuel injected 1990. Thinking about taking my motor to the guys in Nashville and do it right.well text at y’all later see ya bye
This is why I hire a professional to build my boosted engines. I can build an NA engine okay/ still need some practice. But I can slap a 572 together pretty quick. I did what you guys did but I ordered the engine prebuilt from BluePrint set up for boost. I’m also using the F1A procharger. Makes 1,219 to the wheels. I haven’t turned it all the way up- not ready for it yet. Maybe Summer nats I will.
Wow sweet setup! What power adder engine did you get from blue print? How is it holding up to this day as I see your comment is from 4 years ago? Cheers!
NA with 9.2:1 compression ratio still making well over 500 horsepower at the crank, you could run this thing on 87 pump gas and still be dominating at the track!
the aluminum heads would help with detonation, but there's a ton of blown 350 cid out there making this power number and needing $12 a gallon race fuel
I grew up with these old bowtie motors, hard to beat! My brother and I raced them on the weekends, rebuilt them during the week. Won a lot of trophies. My brother is still racing now, he bracket races! Enjoyed your video!😊
I was taught that the top ring should have the larger gap on boosted applications as the top ring see's more heat than the second ring & needs a larger gap so you don't get ring bind & wreck your engine
I wanna get a 240z but put a small block in it because the stock engine does not have a lot of reliable aftermarket but the small block has so many mods available
All you needed was a Snow Performance Water/Alcohol Injection System and you would've made over 1,000 HP. And, even more protection against detonation. Of course you could ad a smaller pulley as well to get there.
Did I miss something? Same heads, crank, rods, push rods, a 406 has less valve shrouding than the 383. Nice upgrade. The Little-M is a solid base to work from. And kind of slaps the smirk off all the LS motorheads. Old school muscle.
Omg this made my day I love this show I miss this episode on this 406 and this become my favorite one I want my 406 to become like this but only have stock block and it needs rebuilt that’s for this video love it
@@_winter7745 Junkyard LS will hold 1400hp crank, with enough fuel, boost, ring gap and cold copper plugs and retarded (12 degrees by 4000rpms) timing.
@@DarkLinkAD Yes, for a couple pulls. You can't just triple the factory horsepower on a stock engine and expect to be much more than a disposable dyno queen or something you make that power once on a dyno then detune it for the street while telling everyone you have a "1400hp" motor. To do it right takes a little more than just slapping a 1500hp turbo on a truck engine.
I like the color choice it’s refreshing to see rather than the typical Chevy orange or red seems every engine gets built and colored red or orange and blue for Ford
Blown is ALWAYS better!!! Good tutorial on rings and ring gap from Pat. A lot of builders I've seen don't put much thought into this areas of building. Btw... where's Joe Elmore?
I had my 1.8L DOHC 4 cylinder VTEC engine assembled by a local well known engine shop (mostly because it had to be bored and line honed), and my 4 cylinder has made 588 whp on a Dynojet, so I'd say they did a good job...
Is that the same Bill McKnight that taught at the DANA - SPICER school in Toledo in the early 1980's ? He was one of my engine machine instructors / theory for the NAPA Engine Building Series I attended. He was a super nice guy and very knowledgeable. Our other instructor was Bob, but I don't recall his last name. I just remember Bob had a big block C3 Corvette. Great school. Good to see Bill is still in the game. Best regards to all. Stay healthy.
I built a version of this motor after seeing this 4 years ago for about 6800$ minus the dart block. It was a turbocharged s488 383 gen 1 w/ gen 3 ecu and coil over plug ignition tuned with HP tuners. Scat forged Assembly wiseco pitons a set of dart knock off clone heads and single plane 4150 efi throttle body. Fun little motor . I want to add a dart block wiseco rods and another s488 one day.
should read AFR heads tested on new 406 set up. You did at least use the 400 balancer from the 383 and valve covers. I did a similar swap in my 85 regal from the N/A 3.8v6 to the twin-turbo 6.0L jumped the horsepower from 90 to 1090hp. You should really be able to feel the additional 1000 wheel hp I hope
Maaan if I had pat as like an uncle or something I would learn any and everything I could from him, he's definitely someone I'd trust to do any kinda of work on my vehicle and I only trust 2 , myself and 1 mechanic lol ,
I run the car maintenance RUclips channel in Korea. I'm always learning such a great ideas on your channel. I hope we have a chance to be together. Thank you.
Add a methanol and water injector to cool the combustion chamber prior to ignition it should give you the ability to run more total spark advance or make the power without adding timing by promoting a more complete and faster burn with the improved combustion characteristics achieved from just the right amount of water vapor.
Hard to tell but looking at those plugs it looks to be running a touch lean. Ran your specs through a cheap dyno program it was requiring 1100 cfm carb or injection system.
Curious why you stopped at 11-1 compression on the 383. Once your past the point of running pump gas why leave power on the table by not going 12-1 or more? I noticed your power levels are down from the 377 and 383 small blocks we were building 30+ years ago....It's not the heads , so it has to be the lower compression....
its like a Chevy 350 Small block with a Modified Crankshaft from a 400 block to fit the Chevy 350 small block with modified bores for increased displacement... in the mean time messing with cylinder heads, effecting the Compression Ration for Higher Camshaft Intake and exhaust duration while retarding the Valve intake and exhaust timing for these alterations all for high 550-1,100 Horsepower with Timing Chain/Ignition Timing Chain altered 6 degrees counter-clockwise for advanced degree angle on the cam to crank gears already preset by the grinding down around the cylinder/pistons/bores.. but yet don't want to stick with the 383 stroke which was the modified camshaft out of the 400 block because you want to cut down on the .27 inches on it? what really made it a 383 was the camshaft modified. reminds me of Chevy's, CT400. oh well eventually they all are molds from each other modified so much and then added to. but anyhow Chevy's small blocks are really 350 with everything else altered in so many different directions, then went large while still working with 350's.
Redline Racer the video seems to imply that the same engine can be changed from a 383 to a 406. ANYONE with ANY sbc experience knows that it doesn’t work like this. It is a silly video, one that earned a “dislike” from me.
Redline Racer actually a 350 can be made to a 406 but not something I recommend someone tries if you didn’t know this can be done. .060 bore, 4” stroke crank and 6” rods. This requires knowledge and block shaving and correct pistons to help clear rods as well.
Dumb dumb dumb. 383 is a smaller bore 400 is all it is. For guys who can’t find 400 blocks. Same stroke at 3.75. The 3.75 crank went back into the bigger bore 400 block. Which actually has a .030 bore equalling 4.155. You can do that with a stock 400 block not a aftermarket like this. Just need a .030 over 400 block.
How are yall goin to get a side beside engine dyno test between boosted and N/A if you change the set up on it? Makes no since! Of course it's goin to get horsepower gain with race gas additives verses pump gas. Same thing goes for the carb if you take the first one off in order to make it better for the boosted pull then of course again it's goin to do alot better on torque and horsepower. Just a thought. Love yalls show.
@@bigboreracing356 Or just spec the cam correctly and run a better intake. Could easily benefit from the 235 head as well. 112 LSA Wilson Vic Jr. ported manifold AFR 235 heads There's your 1050 hp pull with more low end torque.
@@strokerace7418 check out my facebook add me if you like same name under videos we have a very mild 390 with the c4ae 6090g heads comp 270 cam and run 7.70s 1/8 mile we are in process of changing to a bigger cam now
More cam bigger heads will bring more midrange... needs more cfm... 1-2200 cfm EFI tb you'll make 1250 easy... must be cooled to be effective. Good luck.
I'd like to see a similar build to Stage 3 N/A only with a Dart 434 SB. I have one in my 84 Vette here in Australia, running a set of Dart 230cc heads, 1-7/8" headers, edlebrock pro flo XT intake that has been widened and port matched to the heads and is running 65lb LS3 injectors. I am running a 90mm LS throttle body and this should flow at around 1100 CFM. The heads are 230cc 2.08" intake/ 1.6" exhaust 72cc heads, should bring the compression to mid 10's. Also running 1.6:1 ration Comp Magnum rockers, but cam is on the light side 113 LSA around 0.600" lift with the 1.6:1 rockers.
QUESTION on the ARP studs on motocross bikes you tighten the stud in the cases and/or not super tight but snug. What is the TORQUE putting in ARP studs is it the same? thanks
If they used a better set of plugs that have little bit more horsepower those plugs are junk I think they're called E3 you're right about the octane boost a friend of mine had a fuel cell turned to Jell-O
Infomercial junk plugs!!! Most plugs will work ok for a single dynopull...but not much more! And using canned crap octaneboost is disgusting. Notice the Orange electrode on plugs!!! This is hard to watch.
@@karter9907 Exactly what I was thinking. They would be better off running a set of normal plugs like and indexing them for optimum burn (Perhaps try using a bit colder heat range). Then they really should have been using real race fuel or even E85.
My uncle Randy used to do stuff like this all the time, he always had 2 engines he was building on at all times, one in his basement and one in his garage. He used to do model cars with me when I was real little, then when I turned 12 he started teaching me how to repair, rebuild, and refurbish engines and transmissions. I'm 28 years old now and I am ASE certified on powertrains(auto and manual systems), I hope to be a master and have my own shop one day.
@clickity777 hey bud, its been three years since your comment and i really hope you doin well and got a little closer to your master and maybe the own shop? Keep it up, greets from germany!
I had a Vortech SC 383 in my 88 Camaro in the early 90s. I programmed the DFI ECU myself. It had a Lingenfelter box-ram. No intercooler and was set up for what they now call Pro Tour. I was 20 years ahead of the curve. 3.23 rear end and would still not get traction with slicks. You could melt the tires at 60MPH. I transplanted a T-56 Six speed into it. Centerforce had to design a new Kevlar disk to hold the power. It ran low 11s on pump gas without intercooler and 10 lbs. boost.
I think it would of been cool to see the stage one with the supercharger that way you see a street combo and pump 91 only to show what a guy at home can do
11.75:1 compression with 36° total timing, 2.08/1.65 valves in 225cc intake runner heads 254/264 @ .050" and 550" lift straight across cam, Victor Jr intake with a Holley 780 double pumper made the absolute sickest thing I've ever owned for a SBC for street/strip use! I got away with running on 94 on the streets and a mixed blend for the strips. It was well into the mid to high 500s on the HP and almost 600 foot pounds of torque NA! In my 86 Cutlass 442 G body, I found out how weak the chassis of the G body's were! That engine wanted to spit that rear end out the side of my Cutlass even on 12.5" street tires. Ended up adding additional bracing to the chassis, Lakewood control arm's with Lakewood spring's and drag shocks front and rear. It would twist that poor car so badly it would ride halfway down the 1/4 on the passenger front tire only. Tried the old trick of installing a single air bag in the passenger rear spring and that was the golden ticket for the body twisting. It left a better and more consistent light and would lift both tires on the trans brake and 2 step. All this with running dual 3.5" stepped up to 4" race flow Flowmasters and turn downs before the axle. She was a consistent mid to high 10 second car! I had a stock block 2 bolt mains and factory case crank! With God knows how many passes on the engine well into the hundreds of them without a problem. I traded it sadly off to a friend at the time who puts it in a fully setup all steel minus the hood Chevelle and more gearing than I wanted in my Cutlass which I had 3.73:1s and he had 4.88:1s, that little 406 got his heavy Shovel instantly into the Low 10s and now not being satisfied with what he pulled for times he goes and adds a nitrous kit. I forwarned him that it's not setup for nitrous oxide and should really be torn down and the right pistons and rings replaced along with a stronger crank. But he started out gradually with a 75HP shot and it gets him into the high 9s Now! SMFH the car ran all day long in the high 9s without any problems. I told him to NOT get stupid and add anymore to it! And of course what does he do? Steps it up to a 150Hp shot later that season. Wanting I guess to make it into the high 8s?!? Welp the little 406 made 2 solid passes unbelievably with the 150hp shots of nitrous and pulled that Chevelle into the high 8s like he wished for. BUT being ignorant, he was beyond pressing his luck with it, and was warned more than once. So his 3rd and final pass on the old and now tired 406 with the 150 shot was more than enough for the pistons to withstand, being stupid and sloppy he wasn't keeping an eye on the plugs. One cylinder misfired halfway down the track and literally exploded the one piston into a million pieces! With nothing guiding the rod at 7800 rpms exactly what you can picture happening happened. That 5.7" H Beam rod cut through the cylinder wall and ripped the rod in half and the remaining portion of the swinging rod goes and cuts through the entire engine block and halfway down the oil pan. Eagle rods are awesome cuz it never let go on the big end! It was literally somehow twisted so badly that's what caused the rod to snap off maybe as the wrist pin dug into the cast iron block? No clue? So yeah unfortunately being ignorant gets you a pile of trash at the end of the day. BUT this moron wasn't bothered by the fact he just ruined a perfectly good SBC and set of Cantfeild aluminum heads along with thousands of dollars in part's and machine work I did myself. It's a sad way to end a story for me, but for my buddy he got bragging rights of pushing a SBC into the 8s in a small tire all steel shovel I guess? It's definitely impressive stuff especially now knowing what's really capable of a 406 in stock trim block and cranks! The crank somehow managed to be unscathed from that aftermath? The cam was broken 6 rods and pistons were still like New and the best part is he drove it back to the pits that way! The track was a complete mess of course but he didn't care SMFH. So lesson learned, if he would have at least took half my advice and replaced the pistons/rings, that engine just may have held up at least much longer if not the season on the 150 shot? BUT we'll really never know now? The fact is that these engine's are not given the respect they deserve nor are the 377 De-strokers! A 400 block with a 350 crank that will rev to the moon and like it there! Talking 8500 all day long. I never had any issues with my 406 revving either! It was still pulling hard at 7K so it was shifted between 72&7800 on the track and even on the street when cops weren't in ear shot of the engine LMAO! So yeah these engine's don't have to be special BS blocks or even cranks! The journals on the 400 are bigger than any SBC out there so they are actually much stronger than people give them the credit they deserve! And No! It never once overheated on either of us! Ran @ 180 no matter what the temp was outside! It would actually run cold for gasoline on the cold nights! That's a BS myth about the 400s from retards not knowing the 400s have steam holes in the heads, so when you put a replacement SBC head on them and don't know to drill 2 small holes on each end of the face of the heads? They'll get vapor locked and overheat I'm sure! They also do NOT throw connecting rod's even if you run the 5.56" Rod! The only reason I switched to a 5.7" was the piston availability issue for the short rods, they don't exist. So yeah they are without a doubt shout little engine's! Hope this helps or even inspires someone else looking to build one one day?
Just wanna say I read all of that, I admire your dedication to story telling.
To pitch in I'm working on a 383 build, bought a 4 bolt 350 off marketplace, came with double hump 2.02 1.60 valve heads, plan on going 4340 forged 3.75" crank, H beam rods, hypereutectic pistons, 11.5:1, debating on Victor Jr or a dual quad tunnel ram... expensive. Going in an 85 squarebody, was thinkin about putting it in my 85 cutlass but after reading about your experience I'll pass lol.
Man these guys are thorough and wicked good engine builders AND tuners!!!
The 383 had forged rods/pistons/ 4 bolt mains. It would have been fine at 1k. That new build could handle closer to 2k. Ive had a stock block forged piston/rod 3800 v6 doing 1k for 7 years.
Outstanding!! Pat and Mike, you guys are the gold standard in video engine techs!!
Uhhhhh Frieburger, Bruhle, and Dulcich disagree...
You have an axe. You replace the head. You replace the handle.
It’s not the same axe.
Especially if I get to sharpen it.
What he means is it's no longer the same engine. At this point it's a complete diffrent all new components
My thoughts exactly. No reason to tear down the stage 2 - just build another motor.
Jim Anderson exactly
373s
Love this show
I’ve learned a lot from these guys
I wish I had their money and contacts... lol
I thought you meant the blunt looking doobie on the tool box until I saw his pocket !😂😂😂
I wish I did too
Me too
Right 😂😂
No sh*t
Pat Topolinski once carved a camshaft with his leatherman because he had some time to kill.
You 2 guys together are the Best!!
Good job guys,learning a lot thanks for showing telling us guys.I am working on my 460v8 fuel injected 1990. Thinking about taking my motor to the guys in Nashville and do it right.well text at y’all later see ya bye
Thanks for your hard work making these videos. I'll take the 406 with EFI...and no blower.
Miles Rains nope.. carb way easier to tune and fix if something goes wrong. I had an efi and I hated every bit of it .
This is why I hire a professional to build my boosted engines. I can build an NA engine okay/ still need some practice. But I can slap a 572 together pretty quick. I did what you guys did but I ordered the engine prebuilt from BluePrint set up for boost. I’m also using the F1A procharger.
Makes 1,219 to the wheels. I haven’t turned it all the way up- not ready for it yet. Maybe Summer nats I will.
Wow sweet setup! What power adder engine did you get from blue print? How is it holding up to this day as I see your comment is from 4 years ago? Cheers!
NA with 9.2:1 compression ratio still making well over 500 horsepower at the crank, you could run this thing on 87 pump gas and still be dominating at the track!
With that much head and cam I'd be surprised if they didn't make over 500hp even with 7 to 1 pistons.
i wouldnt run 87 octane in my lawn mower nowadays its like terpentine
the aluminum heads would help with detonation, but there's a ton of blown 350 cid out there making this power number and needing $12 a gallon race fuel
It did not dibble the power like he said it would, ran great with out boost just put in some 12.5 to 1 pistons .
Exactly which class would you dominate with 550 hp STP?
I grew up with these old bowtie motors, hard to beat! My brother and I raced them on the weekends, rebuilt them during the week. Won a lot of trophies. My brother is still racing now, he bracket races! Enjoyed your video!😊
I was taught that the top ring should have the larger gap on boosted applications as the top ring see's more heat than the second ring & needs a larger gap so you don't get ring bind & wreck your engine
That's exactly what that sheet tells you.
@@dalemllns exactly but they had the top ring tighter than the 2nd ring
That's a really killer set up guys thanks for sharing that one with me love them prochargers
My mothers only sons dad had an only son that built one of these engines!!! He is a legend at building engines!!!
That’s a brutal 406.
16:28 James get the nitrous (Cleetus fans would know lol)
Hell yeah brother
These guys play it too safe 😂
993 hp and 919 tq with only 15 psi boost.Impressive
Where did you see the that it had 15psi of boost
anyone else into jdm cars and engines but just love these old v8 videos
I wanna get a 240z but put a small block in it because the stock engine does not have a lot of reliable aftermarket but the small block has so many mods available
Dudes pocket pins are on point
We all need to up our pen game to keep up with him.
Wild Bill lol
It be awsome to use that pro charger on the stage 2 383 and see how much hp it can make.
rob Guajardo exactly what I was going for
Seems as though this might just be a huge commercial disguised as an engine build video...??? HHHMMMMMMM....
@@wandaclark1735 these shows have been on for years and years....why are people STILL bitching about this...
If you want to look at it like that. There's allot of educational value too if you understand why they're doing what they do.
All you needed was a Snow Performance Water/Alcohol Injection System and you would've made over 1,000 HP. And, even more protection against detonation. Of course you could ad a smaller pulley as well to get there.
17:00 Hey dude, you gotta pen?
He has more ink than a Miami tattoo shop
Dude you're set for the school year
John
Peterson
Nice Intake
Awesome video love all the build stages such a crazy small block !
Isn't it just a whole new engine?
yup
Yeah, Just leave old one alone and build a new one.
They used the same heads.
Tim Martin go back to part 1
They already swapped those
Just like it's the same hammer that had its handle replaced three times, and head replaced twice....
The engine looks beautiful and the noise its awesome.
Did I miss something? Same heads, crank, rods, push rods, a 406 has less valve shrouding than the 383. Nice upgrade. The Little-M is a solid base to work from. And kind of slaps the smirk off all the LS motorheads. Old school muscle.
Nice to see someone building a small block instead of an ls all the time
Omg this made my day I love this show I miss this episode on this 406 and this become my favorite one I want my 406 to become like this but only have stock block and it needs rebuilt that’s for this video love it
Love how you guys do it man, she sounds great N.A and boosted.
Stage 1: $4,000 ... Stage 3: $20,000.
Its nice. I'd like to get a LS 427 for about the same price if not a little more for 96 z28.
@@nickoD509 Ah yeah I love that 427 but this motor will hold more power. No replacement for full aftermarket.
@@_winter7745 Junkyard LS will hold 1400hp crank, with enough fuel, boost, ring gap and cold copper plugs and retarded (12 degrees by 4000rpms) timing.
@@DarkLinkAD Yes, for a couple pulls. You can't just triple the factory horsepower on a stock engine and expect to be much more than a disposable dyno queen or something you make that power once on a dyno then detune it for the street while telling everyone you have a "1400hp" motor. To do it right takes a little more than just slapping a 1500hp turbo on a truck engine.
@@177SCmaro He actually daily drove his Colorado, once the fuel problems were sorted, it was solid.
Love the sound how that air releasing 😍😍😍🔥🔥🔥
Awesome small block wow , love small block... and 555hp naturally aspirated...who needs a blower and 993hp and a bag of ice for the radiator :) ...
“We did it because we can”
Hell yeah! Builders choice!
At 7:11 Bus grease Monkey would be proud. Now it looks like a 671 Detroit. Hey! it's still a GM color. LOL
Yes he would proud 👍
Love your show! More! More! Cheers, :D London
I like the color choice it’s refreshing to see rather than the typical Chevy orange or red seems every engine gets built and colored red or orange and blue for Ford
Blown is ALWAYS better!!! Good tutorial on rings and ring gap from Pat. A lot of builders I've seen don't put much thought into this areas of building. Btw... where's Joe Elmore?
Man keep that thing NA and have a bullet proof motor for life!
Put some NOS on it. You'll hit 1000hp in no time and blow it up.
Dam almost 1000 hp on a procharged 406 sbc that bad ass
This would be a great street motor.
Good choice in color!
Cool show guys, but I wonder: "Do you guys think the older guy has enough pens and utensils in his nerd wallet? Hell he even has a pen with eraser!"
You know that guy knows his stuff cause his glasses are on his nose and he have his phone in a velcro case🤣😭
He'll never know as much as armchair quarterbacks, though.
@@sleazoid99 lmaoooo 😭😭
He have his phone hu? Grammar much?
Love this series!
I had my 1.8L DOHC 4 cylinder VTEC engine assembled by a local well known engine shop (mostly because it had to be bored and line honed), and my 4 cylinder has made 588 whp on a Dynojet, so I'd say they did a good job...
It’s not a part of the staged build if you use a whole new engine. This wasn’t a 383 to 406, it was a 406 build with a blower. Cmon guys.......
whole series was a joke. just a long ass commercial
Drsteezymcgee all these power block shows are infomercials
@@TheRemipaquette this is true unfortunately. realized that during the first stage 383 for 4k. "ah shit, here we go again"
Yeah. When you use a whole new block, but still use the old parts, its still a different motor.
ScoredPiston you have to change the block to make it a 406
Great fun stuff video .
Is that the same Bill McKnight that taught at the DANA - SPICER school in Toledo in the early 1980's ?
He was one of my engine machine instructors / theory for the NAPA Engine Building Series I attended.
He was a super nice guy and very knowledgeable. Our other instructor was Bob, but I don't recall his last name.
I just remember Bob had a big block C3 Corvette.
Great school. Good to see Bill is still in the game.
Best regards to all. Stay healthy.
Man..just what I need
I built a version of this motor after seeing this 4 years ago for about 6800$ minus the dart block. It was a turbocharged s488 383 gen 1 w/ gen 3 ecu and coil over plug ignition tuned with HP tuners. Scat forged Assembly wiseco pitons a set of dart knock off clone heads and single plane 4150 efi throttle body. Fun little motor . I want to add a dart block wiseco rods and another s488 one day.
should read AFR heads tested on new 406 set up. You did at least use the 400 balancer from the 383 and valve covers. I did a similar swap in my 85 regal from the N/A 3.8v6 to the twin-turbo 6.0L jumped the horsepower from 90 to 1090hp. You should really be able to feel the additional 1000 wheel hp I hope
Maaan if I had pat as like an uncle or something I would learn any and everything I could from him, he's definitely someone I'd trust to do any kinda of work on my vehicle and I only trust 2 , myself and 1 mechanic lol ,
You guys Rock!
Love the show just awesome but I wish y'all gave more info on the parts in their measurements
I run the car maintenance RUclips channel in Korea. I'm always learning such a great ideas on your channel. I hope we have a chance to be together. Thank you.
Most youtube info is not really factual like this
You run THE car maintenance RUclips channel in Korea? You mean North Korea, yes?
Really nice video and timing tips. thanks
Ponyiscgrofotssle
Add a methanol and water injector to cool the combustion chamber prior to ignition it should give you the ability to run more total spark advance or make the power without adding timing by promoting a more complete and faster burn with the improved combustion characteristics achieved from just the right amount of water vapor.
::replaces every part of engine except the dipstick:: “Look! I upgraded my engine!”
small block of theseus
Ha ha every episode
Hard to tell but looking at those plugs it looks to be running a touch lean. Ran your specs through a cheap dyno program it was requiring 1100 cfm carb or injection system.
Color is nice!! Good work!
Curious why you stopped at 11-1 compression on the 383. Once your past the point of running pump gas why leave power on the table by not going 12-1 or more? I noticed your power levels are down from the 377 and 383 small blocks we were building 30+ years ago....It's not the heads , so it has to be the lower compression....
BOOST..............
@@throttlebottle5906 You clearly know nothing about compression or boost.
How do they add timing? I've always wished they would show that part....
I want to know too
It's as simple as loosening up the hold down bolt for the distributor and turning it (the distributor) in small increments.
its like a Chevy 350 Small block with a Modified Crankshaft from a 400 block to fit the Chevy 350 small block with modified bores for increased displacement... in the mean time messing with cylinder heads, effecting the Compression Ration for Higher Camshaft Intake and exhaust duration while retarding the Valve intake and exhaust timing for these alterations all for high 550-1,100 Horsepower with Timing Chain/Ignition Timing Chain altered 6 degrees counter-clockwise for advanced degree angle on the cam to crank gears already preset by the grinding down around the cylinder/pistons/bores.. but yet don't want to stick with the 383 stroke which was the modified camshaft out of the 400 block because you want to cut down on the .27 inches on it? what really made it a 383 was the camshaft modified. reminds me of Chevy's, CT400. oh well eventually they all are molds from each other modified so much and then added to. but anyhow Chevy's small blocks are really 350 with everything else altered in so many different directions, then went large while still working with 350's.
Great video
So what do y’all do with all the parts you take out of the motors y’all build / tear down ... sell them???? I’m looking to buy lol
Fun fact: This engine currently resides in a 72 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu called Project Barnfind
Good to know I can turn one of my 383’s into a 406.
Redline Racer the video seems to imply that the same engine can be changed from a 383 to a 406. ANYONE with ANY sbc experience knows that it doesn’t work like this. It is a silly video, one that earned a “dislike” from me.
So I cant turn my 355 into a 496 big block?
All you needs a 2300.00 block snd 799 set of pidtons lol
Redline Racer actually a 350 can be made to a 406 but not something I recommend someone tries if you didn’t know this can be done. .060 bore, 4” stroke crank and 6” rods. This requires knowledge and block shaving and correct pistons to help clear rods as well.
Dumb dumb dumb. 383 is a smaller bore 400 is all it is. For guys who can’t find 400 blocks. Same stroke at 3.75. The 3.75 crank went back into the bigger bore 400 block. Which actually has a .030 bore equalling 4.155. You can do that with a stock 400 block not a aftermarket like this. Just need a .030 over 400 block.
Now that's what I'm talkin about a great show
I like the tricks of the trade I can learn from other mechanics in this business
I quite like the green block colour, bit different from the usual Chevy orange.
this build would've been cool in the 90's
TheSteelhead15 it’s cool right now
How are yall goin to get a side beside engine dyno test between boosted and N/A if you change the set up on it? Makes no since! Of course it's goin to get horsepower gain with race gas additives verses pump gas. Same thing goes for the carb if you take the first one off in order to make it better for the boosted pull then of course again it's goin to do alot better on torque and horsepower.
Just a thought. Love yalls show.
You can make an awesome extra SBC with all of those parts removed !
Great video guys! Keep it up
It would've been lovely if it reached a thousand😀
@@bigboreracing356 Or just spec the cam correctly and run a better intake. Could easily benefit from the 235 head as well.
112 LSA
Wilson Vic Jr. ported manifold
AFR 235 heads
There's your 1050 hp pull with more low end torque.
You know when you have found a good engine builder when he has 25 different things in his pocket protector shirt pocket.
We all need just the right gap... 😝👍
It’d be cool to see and old Ford FE engine such as a 390 or 428
I support this statement.
i heard that we run a FE 390 in our 80s thunderbird drag car
bronson osborne I’m building a 390 at the moment to put in my car. I’m hoping to get 400hp and 450lb of torque.
@@strokerace7418 check out my facebook add me if you like same name under videos we have a very mild 390 with the c4ae 6090g heads comp 270 cam and run 7.70s 1/8 mile we are in process of changing to a bigger cam now
FE's are becoming cult engines. I would watch it.
I dig the block color.
Woooow nice. i love this
More cam bigger heads will bring more midrange... needs more cfm... 1-2200 cfm EFI tb you'll make 1250 easy... must be cooled to be effective. Good luck.
I would take that any day of the week. Build sheet and part sheet needed for sure.
There's a few things you might want to change.
I'd like to see a similar build to Stage 3 N/A only with a Dart 434 SB. I have one in my 84 Vette here in Australia, running a set of Dart 230cc heads, 1-7/8" headers, edlebrock pro flo XT intake that has been widened and port matched to the heads and is running 65lb LS3 injectors. I am running a 90mm LS throttle body and this should flow at around 1100 CFM. The heads are 230cc 2.08" intake/ 1.6" exhaust 72cc heads, should bring the compression to mid 10's. Also running 1.6:1 ration Comp Magnum rockers, but cam is on the light side 113 LSA around 0.600" lift with the 1.6:1 rockers.
You could use bigger headers. At least 2"
Love the oil pan!
QUESTION on the ARP studs on motocross bikes you tighten the stud in the cases and/or not super tight but snug. What is the TORQUE putting in ARP studs is it the same? thanks
Please be specific , which head race or competition part number ?????
Any chance of the FULL dyno sheet for the NA pulls ???
Holy Crap!!!! I want to give you guys my truck to make it do that!
I would like to see them build a small block 351 stroked out to a 419??
If they used a better set of plugs that have little bit more horsepower those plugs are junk I think they're called E3 you're right about the octane boost a friend of mine had a fuel cell turned to Jell-O
Infomercial junk plugs!!! Most plugs will work ok for a single dynopull...but not much more! And using canned crap octaneboost is disgusting. Notice the Orange electrode on plugs!!!
This is hard to watch.
@@karter9907 Exactly what I was thinking. They would be better off running a set of normal plugs like and indexing them for optimum burn (Perhaps try using a bit colder heat range). Then they really should have been using real race fuel or even E85.
awesome video to make it better you could add in the tuning on the carbs next time
GREAT People
Why did you get rid of the AFR plastic intake? Is it not good for blown applications?
Small block makin some power
They have way to much fun in that shop haha