The Swiss Waist: the Easy Way to a Victorian Silhouette (without a corset!)
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- Опубликовано: 23 сен 2023
- Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
After a little bit of a disappointment with my 1860s skirt, I widened the skirt band to fix it, and though it made it better, it still wasn't ideal. So I decided to explore period appropriate solutions: belts! In this case, a Swiss waist, or belt, or however you'd like to name it. It seems definitions were inconsistent across magazines and outfit descriptions, but you can trace these belts/waists through museum extants and photographs. They definitely existed and were definitely popular for a handful of years in the 1860s, most likely because they suited the new fashionable style of separates.
I used the free online pattern made by koshka-the-cat (www.koshka-the-cat.com/swiss_p...) based on an extant from their collection. I had to add significantly to the sides to make it my waist measurement (and it accidentally ended up a little wider when I messed up my seam allowance). I used around a half meter of cotton coutil and black velvet, as well as thread, bias tape, synthetic whalebone, and a handful of metal eyelets. Overall, I think this project took only a handful of hours, even with all the hand finishing, and I'm so happy with it! I think it's a great addition to historically inspired outfits and provides some support and silhouette shaping without the full need for a corset, especially when paired with historically drafted skirts (that hem to waist is the real trick at the end of the day!).
Have you heard of Swiss waists? If so, where, and what were they called? I'm so curious to know how they became known in our modern times!
You can see the making of the 1860s inspired ensemble here: • A Little Women Dress: ...
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They really insisted their outfits flattered back then, the clothing was expected to do its job and a body confidence they were looking their best - I love this idea - it's so smart and practical.
I first learned of the Swiss waist because there’s one in The Phantom of the Opera! After Christine Daae’s big debut, the next scene takes place in her dressing room, where she’s still wearing her costume corset but has a white dressing gown over it when her childhood friend/crush Raoul comes in for the first time and then the Phantom whisks Christine away through the mirror to sing the title song. Behind the door to her dressing room is a mannequin with a Victorian day dress on it (I believe in the Vegas production, the small set made them forgo the skirt so it was just the bodice). This dress is, in concept, seemingly Christine’s normal clothes that she’s putting back on once she’s out of costume but she never gets to wear it because the Phantom whisks her away. However, it’s included as part of the set because when Raoul throws the door open to find that Christine’s disappeared, the dress and mannequin act as a door stop! There’s been a few variations on this “Lost Dress” as it’s referred to that is both an unworn costume and a set dressing prop in fabric choice and color, but many of them have it in dark greens and browns to not stand out too much. But they always include a Swiss waist, because it keeps the blouse tucked in since it’s always being hit by the door flying open! One touring production had a blue velvet Swiss Waist and it was so pretty, but my favorite was the Broadway one!
Glad to know there's a name for the piece that i always wanted in my closet.
For awhile in the early 2000s, there were a variety of belts and corset belts being sold in my size and it always improved the outfit. I miss them terribly so I see sewing in my future!
This is exactly what I needed. I made an edwardian walking skirt but without a proper corset it looks really frumpy and makes me look much bigger than I am. I thought about making some sort of 'corset belt' - this looks just the job!
I'm guessing I'll feel the same when I get my Victorian walking skirt finished, I'm more of a cylinder than an hourglass.
Literally just pad the rest
@@Anonymous-kp3jf Heh, I've become columnar enough that just getting my pants waistband to stay up if I have tools in my pocketses has become challenging, gotta keep your garments in place before you can pad them!
This belt would look amazing as a replacement waist band on something like bohemian pants. Or even secret pants. I don't wear dresses that much, but pants are always so unflattering around the middle. I'm going to have to try this. Thank you for sharing ❤
The timing of this was perfect, because I just barely made one of these, myself. ☺️ It's a great addition to any Historical Costuming wardrobe, and adds a classy touch.
The fun thing is that because it uses lacing as a closure, you can easily make it reversible/two sided, like I did!
I hope that lots of people decide to try this sewing project, because I had fun on mine, as well. And you have explained it in such a clear and easy-to-follow way.
Edit: Edwardian belts are great fun, too!
I love those styles of belts. I wish you had turned around so we could see the lacing while on. I would have loved to looked at them.
This is hilarious! I am 59 seconds into your video and I am looking at a skirt that has exactly the same problem as the one I am wearing right now.... yes, the totally unflattering waist band.... I am wearing a viking apron dress over it to hide it, hahahahahaah! So, I will be very attentive to the rest of this video.
So, watched the video and really liked the Swiss Waist. It looks relatively easy to make and I will definitely be giving it a try as well a making some changes to the skirt waist band. I wonder if wearing the Swiss Waist under the skirt and shirt-waist would look nice.... it'd shape the waist, add support but still allow for an alternative look for the top. I'll be trying both if and when I get around to making it. Note up on the board as a reminder. Thanks for a very useful and enjoyable video.
You did a lovely job on this Cat, and not one cross word about binding with velvet! Well done!
I freaking love swiss waists
Beautiful and very flattering addition to that outfit and many more I would expect. Once you put it on, it made me think of the wide elastic belts that were popular in the 50’s that were worn with the aptly named poodle skirts. Poodle skirts were circle skirts often made of felt that flared out at the waist, but there were other skirts at that time that I remember that were also very popular. These were dirndl styles that were gathered quite a lot at the waist. We short waisted folks don’t carry fullness at the waist very well. It seems that a wide belt or waist served to help people to make the silhouettes of this type of outfit a little more flattering. It was worn with a twin set, or a white shirt blouse tucked in. I remember a particular wide belt that my sister borrowed often from her best friend that had a fastener that had offset round metal domes about 1/2” in diameter that you interlocked the way you interlock your fingers when you fold them together. My friends and I used to use it for corsets when we played anything that had period clothes. This video made me think of another way that the present mimics the past often in small details like the wide style of belts.
Those belts come up at second hand shops rather a lot... But I suspect most are 80's does 50's. I didn't even know it was a 50's look until now, or that poodle skirts were worn with wide belts. I guess that image does come to mind very easily, but I'm not sure it would have prior to reading that.
Maybe I'll have to actually purchase one, now that I know what shape skirt to wear it with!
@@lynn858 well I’m going by what my sister and her friends wore. We were pretty country growing up on a farm. But they bought Al the movie magazines. Did you ever see Laverne and Shirley? It was two young ladies that wore the kitschy 50’s outfits on the Happy days show? Now don’t come back and say you e never heard of. I hope there are a few people that remember it. Think of a circle skirt not necessarily a poodle skirt, some had Eiffel Towers on them. Often with that they wore a white man style shirt tucked in, the belt at the waist and a chiffon square tied at their necks. Sometimes we saw them with a kitten sweater (mohair or angora). With the gathered skirt it varied depending on the season. Right after they stopped wearing poodle skirts stretchies came into style. They were skin tight stretch pants that always looked like they were too short until they started putting a strap that you slipped over your heel and under the instep. I think they wore the belt with those also.
I have an 1860s dress that I was thinking of making a Swiss waist for it and wearing the skirt with a white blouse. I love the look.
If you think about it, the Swiss Waist was the forerunner of the underbust corset. It looks beautiful on you, Cat!
I'm working on version of "detachable external pockets" that are more like an aesthetic tool belt. I've been playing around with something like a swiss waist as the base. Figuring the width, and boning will provide some support for having weight in the pockets.
But based on a first mock up, I'm noting that a number of "belt bags" and "festival waist bags" seem to have a ring, or large grommet in the back or back and front, to act as a pivot point. I'm wondering if the lacing might function in a similar way. It seems like it would help 1. allow the belt to flex depending on whether you're sitting or standing, without bunching. 2. Allow for variability in the thickness of garments underneath 3. Accommodate the hip spring (whether it's natural or padded) and encourage the belt to sit on the hips - which is precisely where I want the weight of my pocket junk to be distributed.
Another YT video mentioned putting darts in the back of large pocket bags to help them conform around the body. That's going to help with the other aesthetically awful issue I was having.
I'm working on replicating a photo of Empress Elisabeth of Austria which consisted of a white blouse with black ribbons, a large plain skirt, and a Swiss Waist which made her already tiny waist even more snatched.
I think that was a great solution to the problem you're having with your outfit. I really like the way it looks. I would mention that there was some trouble with your filming because the camera was attached to the sewing table and when you sewed it was all shaky. Maybe you could attach it just off to the side of it. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Here in the states we call it a waist cincher and they are worn under clothing.
As to waistbands, I interline with a heavy canvas to prevent stretching or weighted down. I don't bother with corsets because, they are misery in a wheelchair.
There is a blue and white Swiss waist in a museum collection. That was my first exposure to the garment and I was in love. I need to make one of these ASAP I believe. Such a beautiful piece.
That sounds gorgeous! 🤩
@@CatsCostumery I don’t know what your policy is but I’m on Pinterest and I have it saved there
I was thinking about doing one for myself for Halloween but I kept postponing it, your video gave me the push that I need it to do it.
Yours turned out lovely and very well done. :^)
Looks fabulous!! I have loved the looks of those belts for ages and didn't quite know what to call them. I think the original Mary Poppins movie is probably why. I am way too messy to wear that much white, but the belt?! Oh heavens yes! I kinda of want to make one out of proper leather. Hmmm. Thank you for sharing dear! ❤
So true, Mary Poppins is a good shout!
I think it was a spectacular addition to the dress❤
Welp, I see something else that's going to jump the sewing queue... anything to pretend I have hips and waist distinct from each other!. And support without a bra is always appreciated. And would probably look great with my otherwise kind of boring purple linen medieval rectangles and gores dress that doesn't do much for my figure/lack thereof, even if it doesn't particularly fit the medieval period.
I already know from a particular fantasy armour we created in the metal shop that a belt with something big in the middle is pretty flattering on my dad-bod-with-boobs shape so this oughtta do the trick nicely. And if it's comfortable, I might be able to wear it underneath my armour so I can at least control what parts of me get smushed between my hip bones and the metal... I've got some lovely purple canvas without plans....
I’d been thinking about Swiss waists for weeks, a church friend offered some velvet they did not know what to do with and I finally got it today. So perfect timing!
I love corsets and anything similar to them. Also the historic dresses especially late Victorian and early Edwardian 🥰 I wish I could sew as well as you do. I would wear only the former mentioned dresses. This is art. Thank you for sharing 🙏🏼
Great idea for dealing with the bulk. You really improved the outfit.🧵
I've always seen these called a Medici Belt, never heard it be called a Swiss Waist but that may be a difference in country. That may be why you had such a hard time finding stuff on it.
I've been wanting to make one for a few years now for everyday wear with my skirts. I don't know why I keep dragging my feet knowing it's a quick project. Yours is so cute!! It really gives a little something to an outfit
I want to turn all my cute left over fabric pieces into swiss waists now!
Love the dramatic difference! And it’s so easy I can’t wait to make one!
Wow wasn’t expecting it to be so very easy. It looks lovely. Looking forward to seeing the new outfits you put together.
I’m in the U.K. and bought a really cheap one of these for fancy dress, you can find them if you look for waspie belts or waist cinchers. Great job!
Thank you for sharing this with us.
Before menopause I had an hour glass shape and could wear most things. Now I'm more apple shape and my walking skirts make me look frumpy. I will make this belt and see if it helps.
I love your videos. Again thank you. ❤
There are a lot of belts being used right now in the style of corsets, this is a great how to video for people wanting to make their own! I wonder if it's possible one could make like a "corset lite" for themselves by adding a few more bones here and there.
The velvet is gorgeous! And it fits you well.
I don’t sew. This video is fantastic!
It’s a completely different outfit! I love the shirtwaist on its own but it looks spectacular with the Swiss waist too xx
It’s so gorgeous!!! I want one in every color! 😍😍😍
I never knew this was called a swiss waist. Growing up I would often wear one of these out to concerts and similar events (classical so dressy but not formal evening wear) that dad made for mum back in the 1950s. Black velvet although a slightly different design and it fastened at the side using hooks and eyes which are much easier to do up.
That's wonderful!
This shows up again, as part of the gown, in the 1930s bias cut gowns and briefly in the 1950s
I have been looking for more information on Swiss waists for a while! Thanks for making this video ☺️
This is so wonderful, I love it! Need to make some in multiple colors!!
I love this. I've wanted to make one for so long.
It’s so lovely, looks great on you
That looks so useful!
It looks fabulous ❤
I love this idea! Want one.
It really did rescue the outfit
It looks amazing! :) Now I need to make one too!
Lovely!! ❤
😍 woah I may need to give this one a try!
Very cool
Omg! I’m also making a swiss waist, and i made the same mistake by only adding lacing on one side 😅
So cute, reminds me of a Laura Ashley outfit I had in the 80s, including cotton petticoat. Did they where separates in the 1880s do you know?
They also had separates in the 1880s but mostly skirts with overskirts and longer bodices for day wear ☺️
Thanks you it's very beautyfull l vould like patterns❤❤❤
I adore your open top thimble!! Where is it from?
It's this one from Clover and I love it! amzn.to/3PBLInU
I’ve just bought what looks like your model sewing machine. I found a Singer 201k heavy duty machine from the 50’s from a local Salvation Army for 30 pounds Uk. I take it you are happy with its performance?
I'm very happy with mine! It was a friend's grandma's machine, and it's my favourite over my modern machine ☺️
What brand of cutter are you using on that fabric? It looks like it cuts so easily!
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I've got this one from Fiskars amzn.to/3PWS6b6 , it works well for me ☺️
You ironed velevet?
I did, very carefully, by putting a scrap of velvet on the board, pile up, and then putting my velvet right side down so that piles were against each other and it wouldn't crush ☺️
@@CatsCostumery ooooooohh that's clever.
✨🧵
Love it! Great project. You did really well. Thanks😊.
I've been making corset belts and corsets and lots of holiday things for Renfaire so this was really timely!