Hey, I just have to say, "Your a Life Saver!" You have helped me out so much with your Videos. i wish you was here in Tennessee. I have a 2001 S500 that slowly I have been restoring but it"s my daily drive. Thank you again for your videos and keep them coming! God Bless
Masood you are a true gentlemen! Further, not only do you have car skills you clearly know how to shoot and edit video! I would also venture to guess you have creative and musical skills too....Thank you for your video it was helpful and inspiring!
Thank you for sharing this excellent video. The list of parts, tools needed, and the torque specs made my pump replacement easy (clutch fan tool borrowed from my local auto parts store).
Thanks for posting this video, I have to change my WP, Idler, etc on my CLK55. Very tight so looks like I will have to pull the radiator to even remove bolt for idler pulley but since WP make a bit of noise when I spin think have Radiator will facilitate process. Also sourcing parts from FCPEuro so will likely have to tap holes as well. Your video gives me good idea on what I am getting into thanks.
Nice job, man! Especially with using the bolts as alternative for a tap kit. Think I'm going to wait on doing my flush and stuff until next paycheck or 2 lol and do the whole haul instead since I know the previous owners didn't do a darn thing to keep it maintained. Thanks again for the videos!
You have the option of taking your S500 to an MB dealer for an oil change. It will cost you around $40 more than if you do it yourself. There, you can ask them for a print out of your car's service history 'record. You will at least find out if the previous owner ever took the car to any MB dealer for repairs or service. You will find out if and when your water pump was replaced by MB, for example. You will be able to deduce how well the car may have been serviced. My suggestion is that the water pump be replaced at around 100,000 miles. Feel free to ask if you run into any issues. Good luck to you. The job is really pretty straight forward ..
Excellent video, that box trick was handy 👍 I have 02’ S430 v8 (m113 I think). Process is very similar. I had a leak, turns out the pump blades where grinding the back of the pump. The belt drive spindle was warped - from overheating 🥵 . I had a flat gasket - needs sealer.
Peace Masood! Thank you for providing the instructional video. After following all the steps, I am almost finish, except I cannot remove the pump from the block. All the bolts have been removed, but the old pump rotates a little but does not come away from where all 19 bolts were holding it in place. Can you please advise on how to pull the old pump away so i can place the new pump and bolt it down? Thanks again for the how to...
Hi Thomas, I am sorry to read you are stuck removing the pump. Looking at the new pump as a guide, please once again touch the old pump at bolt locations all around and make sure all bolts are indeed removed. Also, did you remove the alternator? After double-checking, this is probably what you should do: have four hands and two pry bars ready, attach some thick cloth to the back of the prybars and place as leverage on places on the front engine façade where nothing else goes, inserting the prybars under the pump only in spots where the pump is not flash against the block, and then very gently while holding the old pump by one of the 4 hands, try in tandem to pry it evenly out. I wonder why you are replacing it. Is it preventative or due to the pump not working? If not preventative, it could be that the pump is rusty on the inside if the car has been sitting for a long time. I hope the inner components are not disintegrated. It ordinarily comes out with very little force.... Please update us on your results and progress. Good luck.
Used this video to help replace my water pump on a W220 S600. You have to remove the crankshaft pulley to get it off. PITA and requires a special pulley holder. Not a fan of the process but it got done. Thanks for the video!
You are welcome, BeerSnob506 - yes, indeed on an S600, you will have to remove the drive pulley. Hopefully, you replaced it with a new one after going thru the pain of removing it...
My water pump recently failed while driving on my 02 clk 430…Also had to do a complete overhaul of the system. I have yet to flush the system though. Would it help clear out all the metal shavings from when the pump blade had grind on the timing case?
Recently subscribed. Would you know if the procedure is the same for a 2000 e430? The water pump looks the same but the fan is mounted on the pump pulley. Is there a way to remove the fan without buying the tools?
This by far the best video as far as procedure. But if equipped with oil cooler put little 2 inch hose on water pump 1st. Be careful of the gasket it will walk on you. As you install make sure it's in place before torque down the gasket. Other than that it's a bucket of fun.
@@masood-tv ? My low coolant light on the dash won't go out. Replaced the overflow resivoir. But no luck still on. Checked the coolant temp sensor circuit. Tmrw I will replace the sensor. Also the over flow boils over and starts steaming . Now the fans don't come on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi gotdir66 - Did you replace your thermostat? It could be faulty if you haven't? The fans come on only when the thermostat is in working order and senses the coolant temperature.
Good idea, but the thermostat goes one way at least with Mercedes stock parts. I had help with the power probe and my good friend helped me out with diagnosing, why the fans do not do not come on. Ok, there is a 100A fuse that is located on the positive side of the battery. After we applied power to the fan motor the low coolant light aslo went out. That light is tied into the fan circuit some how. Stay tuned once I get the fuses which are 8$ piece from Mercedes, special order only.
Quick question if you don't mind regarding torque specs. I am also going to replace the water pump and thermostat with a friend who is more knowledgeable then me. I see you listed all the torque specs in detail. My friend probably knows but I just want to confirm there are 4 bolts on the pump to torque to 10nm? Also, I just want to confirm the location of the E10 & E12 bolts to torque and would you recommend any particular brand of pumps not to use? Again, I apologize for all the questions. Thank you very much
Hi Andrew - I don't mind at all. I don't really remember the exact locations but if you turn to 10:06 seconds of the video, I have a map of all the bolts. I suggest you pencil all around the new pump on a carboard as I did and then as you remove each bolt, stick it into the map on the cardboard. The sizes of the bolts dictate whether you torque at 10 or 25NM according to the 12:34 second clip in the video. As to which pump to avoid, I would avoid all but the Mercedes brand nowadays since it is priced only a few bucks over 3rd party brands. I bought Laso which at that time was a lot cheaper. This job takes a few hours and requires a full coolant flush. Therefore, I would trust the MB brand to last the longest.
Hi Benz Man Sam - I did this simply as a preventative maintenance given my car's mileage stood at 96,000. The old pump's bearings were clearly loose. You can test yours by taking the belt off and turning the pump pulley. It should not be very loose and it should definitely not make noises. To see the difference, you could go to a local auto parts store and turn the pulley of a new water pump - not necessarily a Benz pump. Not replacing the pump in time can lead to damage. Besides, I was planning to replace the hoses, the thermostat and the coolant anyway...it all makes for a good combined maintenance job. The bulk of the time is spent locating and (un)screwing all the bolts. That is why I recommended an electric or air ratchet for the job.
Hi Blessed Credits - I have never done it but if you can source the right pulley, can remove the old and replace with a new pulley - why not? It will be a much cheaper option. Share your experience here once and if you decide to do it. Thx.
Hi, Thanks for your videos. From the labels and PI sheets, a 50/50 mixture of the below coolants shows Mercedes Blue to have slightly higher BP than Zerex G05 and G48. It is a slight difference that may not matter. Mercedes Blue coolant Q1030004, boil over protection 135C/275F. Zerex G05, boil over: 128C/265F. Zerex G48 :128C/265F. What is your opinion of Evans waterless coolant? It is lifetime and has a BP of 375, and since no water, very low pressure, thereby decreasing component stress and failure.
Hi P I. Yes, as you noted, the difference is not that much. You can use Zerex instead of the MB brand and save a few bucks. As to Evans, I have never used it. If your car is still under warranty, I would avoid it. If it is not, you may want to consider the cost relative to how old or new your radiator and hoses are... Keep in mind that at some point, you may have to replace your old radiator or hoses (due to leaks) which would require refilling with Evans coolant at a higher cost. I would also search the internet and see if other MB owners have used Evans before...
Thanks. I have been told that since Evans has no water, there is no vapor produced such as a 50/50 Antifreeze/water mix. Therefore all your components last longer. I have a 99 SL500 just hit 100k and need to change the coolant. So I think I am going to pull the trigger. They have a prep fluid you have to use. Also it is lifetime coolant so you can reuse it.
I'd check out the specs on Evan's website. You want to make sure you keep the water level to less than 3% in the entire system. I am glad you have decided to do it. Good luck.
Hi Bac Tran, I hope you didn't purchase a cheap gasket. There is a groove in the chassis where a good gasket should stay intact. Just compromise. You can add a dot of glue here and there to make it stick.
do you have grooves in engine for rubber seal? or do you have flat sides, if your engine have flat sides then you will need paper gasket then. put good silicon and tight it good
@@masood-tv mine is flat side. no groove where rubber seal sits in. I have got it opened it up last night. with package, i got 1 rubber seal ,and one metal seal. I thingk i would use the metal one. So what silicon should i use? and how much to use on it. please advise.
Quick question I removed the bolts in a hurry and didn’t mark them and can’t find any chart .. do you know any link to the water pump bolts and which go where
Hi Chris...I wish I made a chart, but didn't. However, if you fast forward to 10:09 in the video, you will see how I penciled the outlines of the pump and inserted my bolts into them. You should be able to tell where the smaller bots go vs. the bigger ones. Also, you can insert the bolts into the holes of the new pump and tell which ones fit in diametrically...
Hi Masood, did you have to buy an alternator bolt or the water pump you used actually the hole fits the original alternator bolt? btw, I have a 2000 MB s430 and all of the water pumps I got the alternator side hole is too small for the bolt?
Masood, thanks for the quick reply! No, I didn't, I got it from RockAuto and returned it back and now I have another pump from O'Reilly with the same issue. I'll try the Fcpeuro. Thanks.
You are most welcome. I am not receiving any perks from FCPEuro. But, their prices are very good for better quality products and they guarantee their products for life. Also, next time you have to replace your water pump, they will send you one for free...that applies to all normal-wear items. Pretty amazing deal...
I have always heard Mercedes-Benz are a nightmare to work on, from this video I would say that's a big fat lie, I say Nissan's are a lot more complicated to work on. Check out the videos on replacing water pumps on thier motors, you basically have rip the front engine apart and then hope it doesn't jump timing.
Luke Geimer that gos for all cars with timing belts i beleve i no honda toyota alot of em are like that in my opinion its the dumbest idea thers no need for it why design a motor that the valve will hit the piston if it jumps timing then use a belt of all things to make shure it doesnt jump timing its almost laughable
Hi Curiosity - yes. I think even the same water pump is used for both cars. Of course the two engines are different, so it will look a little different to you but the procedure remains pretty much the same. Purchase the correct part, locate the bolts for the old one, remove pump, compare the two pumps, and replace in reverse order of removal.
thanks bro for the clear videos.. I've subscribed to your channel 🌷 can u do for me a favour?! could tou please tell from where you bought that spanner? and how much?! 3:23
Hi Suliman, I got the spanner (air ratchet) at 3:23 of this video from Harbor Freight for $20. Here is the link to it: www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-professional-air-ratchet-47214.html. Thanks for the subscription and comment.
Hey, I just have to say, "Your a Life Saver!" You have helped me out so much with your Videos. i wish you was here in Tennessee. I have a 2001 S500 that slowly I have been restoring but it"s my daily drive. Thank you again for your videos and keep them coming! God Bless
Thanks a lot, Samuel, for the kind words.
One of the best instructional videos ever! No stupid music, and no words necessary. Beautifully done!
Thanks, Dave.
Masood you are a true gentlemen! Further, not only do you have car skills you clearly know how to shoot and edit video! I would also venture to guess you have creative and musical skills too....Thank you for your video it was helpful and inspiring!
You are so very kind, Bac Tran. Thanks a lot.
Now this is a DIY tutorial! Thank you!👍😉
Thank you, sir.
Love watching your very informative videos. You have helped me so much Thanks
You are most welcome, Ryan. Thx.
Thank you for sharing this excellent video. The list of parts, tools needed, and the torque specs made my pump replacement easy (clutch fan tool borrowed from my local auto parts store).
Hi Benjamin and thank you.
Thanks for posting this video, I have to change my WP, Idler, etc on my CLK55. Very tight so looks like I will have to pull the radiator to even remove bolt for idler pulley but since WP make a bit of noise when I spin think have Radiator will facilitate process. Also sourcing parts from FCPEuro so will likely have to tap holes as well. Your video gives me good idea on what I am getting into thanks.
Hi Tony, you are most welcome.
Nice job, man! Especially with using the bolts as alternative for a tap kit. Think I'm going to wait on doing my flush and stuff until next paycheck or 2 lol and do the whole haul instead since I know the previous owners didn't do a darn thing to keep it maintained. Thanks again for the videos!
You have the option of taking your S500 to an MB dealer for an oil change. It will cost you around $40 more than if you do it yourself. There, you can ask them for a print out of your car's service history 'record. You will at least find out if the previous owner ever took the car to any MB dealer for repairs or service. You will find out if and when your water pump was replaced by MB, for example. You will be able to deduce how well the car may have been serviced. My suggestion is that the water pump be replaced at around 100,000 miles. Feel free to ask if you run into any issues. Good luck to you. The job is really pretty straight forward ..
Masood thanks, I'll that. I'll let you know how it goes.
you did great mate keeping these beauties on the road
Hello mate - thanks! They are some of the best cars still despite their age...
Excellent video, that box trick was handy 👍 I have 02’ S430 v8 (m113 I think). Process is very similar. I had a leak, turns out the pump blades where grinding the back of the pump. The belt drive spindle was warped - from overheating 🥵 . I had a flat gasket - needs sealer.
Thanks, Victor...glad you found the video of use.
Wow, excellent demonstration, thanks
Thank you.
Peace Masood! Thank you for providing the instructional video. After following all the steps, I am almost finish, except I cannot remove the pump from the block. All the bolts have been removed, but the old pump rotates a little but does not come away from where all 19 bolts were holding it in place. Can you please advise on how to pull the old pump away so i can place the new pump and bolt it down? Thanks again for the how to...
Hi Thomas, I am sorry to read you are stuck removing the pump. Looking at the new pump as a guide, please once again touch the old pump at bolt locations all around and make sure all bolts are indeed removed. Also, did you remove the alternator? After double-checking, this is probably what you should do: have four hands and two pry bars ready, attach some thick cloth to the back of the prybars and place as leverage on places on the front engine façade where nothing else goes, inserting the prybars under the pump only in spots where the pump is not flash against the block, and then very gently while holding the old pump by one of the 4 hands, try in tandem to pry it evenly out. I wonder why you are replacing it. Is it preventative or due to the pump not working? If not preventative, it could be that the pump is rusty on the inside if the car has been sitting for a long time. I hope the inner components are not disintegrated. It ordinarily comes out with very little force.... Please update us on your results and progress. Good luck.
Peace Masood, Never mind, there was an non visible bolt still in place...
@@thomasfoolery6900 wonderful and peace be to you.
Used this video to help replace my water pump on a W220 S600. You have to remove the crankshaft pulley to get it off. PITA and requires a special pulley holder. Not a fan of the process but it got done. Thanks for the video!
You are welcome, BeerSnob506 - yes, indeed on an S600, you will have to remove the drive pulley. Hopefully, you replaced it with a new one after going thru the pain of removing it...
My water pump recently failed while driving on my 02 clk 430…Also had to do a complete overhaul of the system. I have yet to flush the system though. Would it help clear out all the metal shavings from when the pump blade had grind on the timing case?
No, not all of it.
Recently subscribed. Would you know if the procedure is the same for a 2000 e430? The water pump looks the same but the fan is mounted on the pump pulley. Is there a way to remove the fan without buying the tools?
Probably a long shot asking. But do you have any tips on keeping the gasket in place I can’t get it to stay in.
Small drops of glue should do it...
This by far the best video as far as procedure. But if equipped with oil cooler put little 2 inch hose on water pump 1st. Be careful of the gasket it will walk on you. As you install make sure it's in place before torque down the gasket. Other than that it's a bucket of fun.
Hi gotdirt66 - Thank you for both the nice feedback and the oil cooler tip which I am sure viewers will appreciate.
@@masood-tv ? My low coolant light on the dash won't go out. Replaced the overflow resivoir. But no luck still on. Checked the coolant temp sensor circuit. Tmrw I will replace the sensor. Also the over flow boils over and starts steaming . Now the fans don't come on. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi gotdir66 - Did you replace your thermostat? It could be faulty if you haven't? The fans come on only when the thermostat is in working order and senses the coolant temperature.
Another thought, gotdirt66 - please make sure the thermostat is not inserted the wrong way...
Good idea, but the thermostat goes one way at least with Mercedes stock parts. I had help with the power probe and my good friend helped me out with diagnosing, why the fans do not do not come on. Ok, there is a 100A fuse that is located on the positive side of the battery. After we applied power to the fan motor the low coolant light aslo went out. That light is tied into the fan circuit some how. Stay tuned once I get the fuses which are 8$ piece from Mercedes, special order only.
Is 5:25 where you start replacing the thermostat? Needing to do this on a 2011 CL550
Yes.
Quick question if you don't mind regarding torque specs. I am also going to replace the water pump and thermostat with a friend who is more knowledgeable then me. I see you listed all the torque specs in detail. My friend probably knows but I just want to confirm there are 4 bolts on the pump to torque to 10nm? Also, I just want to confirm the location of the E10 & E12 bolts to torque and would you recommend any particular brand of pumps not to use? Again, I apologize for all the questions. Thank you very much
Hi Andrew - I don't mind at all. I don't really remember the exact locations but if you turn to 10:06 seconds of the video, I have a map of all the bolts. I suggest you pencil all around the new pump on a carboard as I did and then as you remove each bolt, stick it into the map on the cardboard. The sizes of the bolts dictate whether you torque at 10 or 25NM according to the 12:34 second clip in the video. As to which pump to avoid, I would avoid all but the Mercedes brand nowadays since it is priced only a few bucks over 3rd party brands. I bought Laso which at that time was a lot cheaper. This job takes a few hours and requires a full coolant flush. Therefore, I would trust the MB brand to last the longest.
I appreciate you taking time and explaining in detail. I think I am understanding it now. Thanks Again!
My pleasure.
Did you do this coolant system overhaul as a maintenance task or were you experiencing issues with the cooling system?
Hi Benz Man Sam - I did this simply as a preventative maintenance given my car's mileage stood at 96,000. The old pump's bearings were clearly loose. You can test yours by taking the belt off and turning the pump pulley. It should not be very loose and it should definitely not make noises. To see the difference, you could go to a local auto parts store and turn the pulley of a new water pump - not necessarily a Benz pump. Not replacing the pump in time can lead to damage. Besides, I was planning to replace the hoses, the thermostat and the coolant anyway...it all makes for a good combined maintenance job. The bulk of the time is spent locating and (un)screwing all the bolts. That is why I recommended an electric or air ratchet for the job.
What are the symptoms of a bad water pump?
Hi Mbz, there are many including but not limited to coolant leaks, unstable engine temp, noises, engine overheating, etc...
If the plastic water pump pully breaks will I have to buy a whole new water pump system or can I just replace the plastic pully
Hi Blessed Credits - I have never done it but if you can source the right pulley, can remove the old and replace with a new pulley - why not? It will be a much cheaper option. Share your experience here once and if you decide to do it. Thx.
It's the idler pully I bought one for 11$ hopefully it works I'll let yk how it goes
How did you get the water pump pully off? I removed the bolts but it still wont come off? Do i need a mallet?
Look for another bolt...most likely you haven't removed all of them. Compare slots in new pump to the one still attached to determine which....
@@masood-tv the pulley was seized on. I used a pry bar to gently work it loose and it came off. Thanks for the videos. They are extremely helpful.
@@projectcl500 I am very glad you got it off. Thanks.
Hi, Thanks for your videos. From the labels and PI sheets, a 50/50 mixture of the below coolants shows Mercedes Blue to have slightly higher BP than Zerex G05 and G48. It is a slight difference that may not matter.
Mercedes Blue coolant Q1030004, boil over protection 135C/275F.
Zerex G05, boil over: 128C/265F.
Zerex G48 :128C/265F.
What is your opinion of Evans waterless coolant? It is lifetime and has a BP of 375, and since no water, very low pressure, thereby decreasing component stress and failure.
Hi P I. Yes, as you noted, the difference is not that much. You can use Zerex instead of the MB brand and save a few bucks. As to Evans, I have never used it. If your car is still under warranty, I would avoid it. If it is not, you may want to consider the cost relative to how old or new your radiator and hoses are... Keep in mind that at some point, you may have to replace your old radiator or hoses (due to leaks) which would require refilling with Evans coolant at a higher cost. I would also search the internet and see if other MB owners have used Evans before...
Thanks. I have been told that since Evans has no water, there is no vapor produced such as a 50/50 Antifreeze/water mix. Therefore all your components last longer. I have a 99 SL500 just hit 100k and need to change the coolant. So I think I am going to pull the trigger. They have a prep fluid you have to use. Also it is lifetime coolant so you can reuse it.
I'd check out the specs on Evan's website. You want to make sure you keep the water level to less than 3% in the entire system. I am glad you have decided to do it. Good luck.
I count 18 bolts including the idler pulley bolt, not 19. Still beautifully done.
I thought I had counted 19, but it was a while ago. Thanks for sharing, Dave.
Ran into an issue with the gasket...I can't get it to stay put for the installation. How did you get yours to stay on...Thx!
Hi Bac Tran, I hope you didn't purchase a cheap gasket. There is a groove in the chassis where a good gasket should stay intact. Just compromise. You can add a dot of glue here and there to make it stick.
I got a really good tip from another forum: Dip the gasket in coolant. It provides just enough tack to stay in place. Thanks for all your help!
@@bactran9724 wonderful. Glad it all worked out.
Well done sir!!
Thank you, sir.
do you have grooves in engine for rubber seal? or do you have flat sides, if your engine have flat sides then you will need paper gasket then. put good silicon and tight it good
Hi beriOberi1 - yes, it does have a groove as can be seen at 10:52 seconds of the video.
@@masood-tv mine is flat side. no groove where rubber seal sits in.
I have got it opened it up last night.
with package, i got 1 rubber seal ,and one metal seal. I thingk i would use the metal one. So what silicon should i use? and how much to use on it. please advise.
I see your videos. These are great. You doing a good job. Welldone. Keep it up.
@@beriOberi1 - thanks for the kind words.
i need.to find a video for 1996 Sl500 ... started on it but can't believe I have to take off crank shaft pulley 😬
Good luck!
Why did you need the socket for the alternator bolt? From the video it did not appear that you removed the alternator.
Hi Smoke Staxx - the far left bolt connects the water pump to the alternator...
Will this work on my s430?
Hi Draco, yes it will.
Quick question I removed the bolts in a hurry and didn’t mark them and can’t find any chart .. do you know any link to the water pump bolts and which go where
Hi Chris...I wish I made a chart, but didn't. However, if you fast forward to 10:09 in the video, you will see how I penciled the outlines of the pump and inserted my bolts into them. You should be able to tell where the smaller bots go vs. the bigger ones. Also, you can insert the bolts into the holes of the new pump and tell which ones fit in diametrically...
Masood thanks man this helped
You're welcome!
Great instructive video---plan to try this myself--let ya know how it goes. Masood thank you
Please do. Thank you, Yanek.
Hi Masood, did you have to buy an alternator bolt or the water pump you used actually the hole fits the original alternator bolt? btw, I have a 2000 MB s430 and all of the water pumps I got the alternator side hole is too small for the bolt?
Hi Gary. Did you get the Laso model 1122001501LA as I did from Fcpeuro.com? That one should fit the bolt just fine.
Masood, thanks for the quick reply! No, I didn't, I got it from RockAuto and returned it back and now I have another pump from O'Reilly with the same issue. I'll try the Fcpeuro. Thanks.
You are most welcome. I am not receiving any perks from FCPEuro. But, their prices are very good for better quality products and they guarantee their products for life. Also, next time you have to replace your water pump, they will send you one for free...that applies to all normal-wear items. Pretty amazing deal...
I have always heard Mercedes-Benz are a nightmare to work on, from this video I would say that's a big fat lie, I say Nissan's are a lot more complicated to work on. Check out the videos on replacing water pumps on thier motors, you basically have rip the front engine apart and then hope it doesn't jump timing.
Hi Luke, you are absolutely right. Benzes are very easy to work with...especially the E and S classes with so much room in the engine bay...
Luke Geimer that gos for all cars with timing belts i beleve i no honda toyota alot of em are like that in my opinion its the dumbest idea thers no need for it why design a motor that the valve will hit the piston if it jumps timing then use a belt of all things to make shure it doesnt jump timing its almost laughable
I've 2003 ML 320 is it compatible with your procedure?
Hi Curiosity - yes. I think even the same water pump is used for both cars. Of course the two engines are different, so it will look a little different to you but the procedure remains pretty much the same. Purchase the correct part, locate the bolts for the old one, remove pump, compare the two pumps, and replace in reverse order of removal.
@@masood-tv
I'm deep appreciative of your prompt response and thorough knowledge -- MegaThanks!
@@jeyda5984 - you are most welcome and thanks.
How many gasket s you used?
Hi, I used one if the two gaskets that came with the pump...I show both in the video as well as which one to use
Could you tell me please, do you think this is the same setup as a CLK 500
Hi Todd - If yours is equipped with the M113 engine (I believe it is...), the procedure is the same. The procedure is very similar for other engines.
Good and thanks
Thanks very helpful
You are welcome and thx.
Good job sir
Thanks, Kevin.
Didn't put rubber gasket now it's leaking
it should not. tight it properly
Hi thanks for the video, my MB S430 dont have cooling hoses, please take a picture to all hoses engine cooling, thanks a lot!!
thanks
You are most welcome, Jose.
I put a paper gasket and silicone
thanks bro for the clear videos.. I've subscribed to your channel 🌷
can u do for me a favour?! could tou please tell from where you bought that spanner? and how much?! 3:23
Hi Suliman, I got the spanner (air ratchet) at 3:23 of this video from Harbor Freight for $20. Here is the link to it: www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/ratchets/3-8-eighth-inch-professional-air-ratchet-47214.html. Thanks for the subscription and comment.
Masood thanks bro..
I've checked the link and it a good price..
I'm downloading the app to make it easy for me to buy from them.
thanks again bro
And still didn't work
lalo 26 what happened?
@@dracoyay6577 it works mis understanding
D
thanks a lot for the tutorial but talk ;-)