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Audi 3.0T TFSI PCV, water pump and thermostat how to replace (S4, S5, A4, A6, A7, A8, Q7, SQ5)

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  • Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
  • Failures in these parts cause oil consumption and coolant leaks! Step by step how to on replacing these parts. Every bolt, every connector and some adventures along the way.
    Part numbers (for 2010 US model, check with your supplier on correct part numbers for year):
    -----------------------
    PCV Valve: 06E103547AC
    PCV Hose (must be replaced): 06E103213
    PCV Breather hose & crimp: 06E103207AM & N10203601
    Thermostat: 06E121111AL
    Waterpump: 06E121018A
    Intake Gasket: 079129717D
    Manifold Gaskets: 079129717B
    Coolant pipe: 06E121045BD
    Coolant temperature sensor: 06A919501A
    Coolant sensor clip: 032121142
    3.0 V6 24v TFSI (EA837)
    Parts code prefix: 06E
    ID codes: CAJA, CAKA, CCBA, CMUA
    0:00 Intro
    0:32 Getting started
    1:31 Air box removal
    1:58 Vacuum line removal & sensor disconnect
    2:40 Belt removal
    3:39 Supercharger coolant lines
    4:13 Supercharger removal
    5:22 Fuel line removal
    5:33 Intake removal
    7:40 Valve cover breather
    8:41 Coolant drain
    9:24 Top coolant pipe
    11:03 PCV valve removal
    11:54 Oil filter housing leak
    12:06 Front coolant pipe removal.. Maybe not!
    13:36 Engaging service mode
    17:38 Front coolant pipe removal take 2
    20:19 Thermostat removal
    20:36 Water pump removal
    22:27 Thermostat and water pump installation
    23:23 Front coolant pipe install
    25:24 PCV breather install
    25:43 Oil filter housing oil leak fix
    27:40 PCV valve install
    30:06 Injector removal
    31:21 What's next?

Комментарии • 63

  • @S4_QUATTROPOWER
    @S4_QUATTROPOWER 8 месяцев назад +6

    Thanks man, appreciated all the hard work and detail you put into this video.

  • @shawnsullivan2586
    @shawnsullivan2586 Месяц назад +3

    This video is an awesome guide. I'm about to tackle this job0

  • @andrequiroz4657
    @andrequiroz4657 2 месяца назад +4

    Very helpful video. I was able to pull the water pump off with out placing the front end in service mode or removing the supercharger. It’s very tight but with the right tools you can get it off with limited removal of items.

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  2 месяца назад +1

      That’s fantastic! Nice work :)

    • @mk_ultrarunner
      @mk_ultrarunner 2 месяца назад

      You were able to replace the water pump without removing the supercharger? What about the t-stat? My water pump just dumped all the coolant and I'm in emergency repair. I really don't have the time to do the PCV and everything at once. I just need the water pump replaced for now. Please help with any insight. I have a 2015 Q5 TFSI 3.0.

    • @andrequiroz4657
      @andrequiroz4657 2 месяца назад +1

      @@mk_ultrarunner I’m waiting for my parts to come in but I didn’t need to pull the supercharger off to remove water pump on 2018 a6. It was a tight squeeze between engine to cooling fans. Not sure how much more space you have in a q5. For t-stat you’re going to definitely need to pull supercharger off. Make sure to use correct size torx but and don’t strip them. Take your time. Best to break water pump pulley bolts loose while belt is still on.

    • @mk_ultrarunner
      @mk_ultrarunner 2 месяца назад +1

      @@andrequiroz4657 Thanks. It's still a tight squeeze but I definitely don't want to put the car in to service mode. Gonna be a real pain with all those coolant lines to remove still. I may just go ahead and remove the supercharger to get the t-stat and water pump done, but the PCV body may have to be a different project for a different day. I suppose if the PCV was the primary issue (I do have a code, but no dash lights), I would go ahead and do everything, but my car is undriveable at the moment.

    • @mustafamohammad1821
      @mustafamohammad1821 2 месяца назад +1

      @@mk_ultrarunnerwhy would putting it in service mode be a hassle? I assume your talking about the bumper, few bolts and it tilts forward. That what you mean?

  • @yasglas
    @yasglas 29 дней назад +1

    im going to be undertaking this job very soon for same parts replacement

  • @goodsmokeclub4649
    @goodsmokeclub4649 7 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you very much brother mashalla

  • @BarbecuedPossum
    @BarbecuedPossum 8 месяцев назад +1

    Hey man, really good vid going through that process :) Good detail and pacing, easy to watch. Mines coming up to 85k miles so no doubt will need to attack all this soon.
    Good tip about the doors, it priming the fuel pump as they open could definitely catch people out.
    Have seen mixed results with injector cleaning on these as people say they cant be flow tested properly afterwards due to the testers not having high enough pressure? So maybe worth getting new ones while you're in there. Will be cool to see the intake cleaning
    Just as a couple of extra steps, I'd also clean the leaves out from under the cowling cover, as even though it was vacuumed on top I found a load of leaves under there which could start to build up water.
    Also on mine I've had the oil pressure sensors fail. There was actually a TSB on them (2036761/1) and the updated p/n's are:
    Top sensor 038919081P
    Rear sensor 06E919081G
    They're like £30 for both sensors and relatively easy to replace (more room with s/c off but not necessary) and well worth it to do because the low/no oil pressure warnings certainly get your attention the way it beeps madly at you 😂

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  8 месяцев назад

      You da man! Thank you :) It’s funny you should mention injector cleaning. I already have to order two new injectors and I want to see where they are at before ordering the rest. I have found a cheaper OEM option though.
      I need to dig more into the leaves and will take a look under the cowl. Thank you!
      Really appreciate the kind words. I think I was 50 hours into just the editing alone :D

    • @BarbecuedPossum
      @BarbecuedPossum 8 месяцев назад

      IIRC the part number for the injectors matches with what VW use on the touareg, and they often have them listed for cheaper as well if it helps :)@@FindingSeconds

  • @JC-io8pv
    @JC-io8pv 25 дней назад +1

    Awesome .

  • @JC-io8pv
    @JC-io8pv 25 дней назад

    The bolts(screws ) # would be awesome

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  22 дня назад

      I always use the official Audi site for that. With used vehicles it’s difficult to know if the correct bolt has been installed. Here’s an example from the Audi site with the water pump: parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_2010_S4-Base-Sedan-30L-V6-AT/67800922__5970142/WATER-PUMP/1399107.html#1

  • @alfonsogaribay-maldonado9267
    @alfonsogaribay-maldonado9267 15 дней назад

    Does a failed pcv valve cause coolant to mix with the engine oil? I had a lot of oil in the cylinder heads I had to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine manually to remove the oil out. I’m also thinking it could be a failed head gasket no too sure! SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  7 дней назад

      Failed PCV could cause oil/water mix but so could head gasket. Perform a compression test and leak down test before you do anything else. You can also do an exhaust gas test on coolant expansion tank. Is the exhaust smoking at all?

  • @lunchmoney3652
    @lunchmoney3652 27 дней назад

    I have a question. My water pump pulley has a wobble on my 2015 Audi S5 and it also squeals. Will replacing this fix these issues?

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  25 дней назад

      If the pulley is wobbling it’s either not attached to the water pump correctly or the water pump has failed. Definitely worth checking. Squeals can be caused by many things but a new belt once you have fixed the wobbly pulley should eliminate that.

    • @lunchmoney3652
      @lunchmoney3652 25 дней назад +1

      @@FindingSeconds edit, I was able to determine that the squeal is coming from the supercharger belt. Sheesh

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  25 дней назад

      Nice find. Definitely want to replace that one :)

  • @abegross8879
    @abegross8879 6 месяцев назад

    are you excepting to do rapier's ?

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  6 месяцев назад

      Sorry. I’m not sure what you are referring to. Autocorrect issue by chance?

  • @user-vn5nf4qo7d
    @user-vn5nf4qo7d 4 месяца назад +1

    Why if the pcv wasn’t a white top you would have to get the ecu retuned ?

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  4 месяца назад +1

      The TSB below has all of the details. Long story short, the older PCV ran the crankcase pressure higher than the new one. It resulted in increased oil consumption. Switching to the new revision the ECU has to be reflashed to stop it throwing a code when it see’s a lower crankcase pressure. Hope that helps!
      static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10119987-9999.pdf

    • @mk_ultrarunner
      @mk_ultrarunner 2 месяца назад +1

      @@FindingSeconds I have a 2015. Will I need to have my ECU reflashed after a PCV change? TSB refers to a 2009-2012.

    • @JC-io8pv
      @JC-io8pv 3 дня назад

      Good question and good answer now i know why .

  • @rolandgjoka
    @rolandgjoka 5 месяцев назад

    What is the pipe at 25:27 for?
    Vacum or coolant?

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  5 месяцев назад

      It's the PCV breather hose. It's connected to the intake via a check valve. So air vs coolant.

    • @rolandgjoka
      @rolandgjoka 5 месяцев назад +1

      @@FindingSeconds thank you

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  5 месяцев назад

      Anytime, thank you for watching :)

  • @Yeahbutwhyold
    @Yeahbutwhyold 3 месяца назад

    Which year is this car on mate? Thank you

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  3 месяца назад

      2010 :)

    • @Yeahbutwhyold
      @Yeahbutwhyold 3 месяца назад

      @@FindingSeconds are the part numbers work on a s5 b8.5 2013?

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  3 месяца назад

      Always best to 100% confirm. I checked the PCV valve for example on FCP and parts.audiusa.com. The figment there indicated it was for 2010-2012. Looking for the same part name on the 2013 indicated it there was a newer AH version. This is assuming US model years. Where are you ordering from?

    • @Yeahbutwhyold
      @Yeahbutwhyold 3 месяца назад

      @@FindingSeconds The uk, will it be different? so would be really helpful to know . Thanks a lot!!

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  3 месяца назад

      I’ve tried looking a few times but I can find a good parts lookup for you. The US model years are slightly different (10 cars were sold in 2009). Also there might be slight variations from region to region due to local regulations. Might be best to call a dealer.

  • @tom10crafted
    @tom10crafted 3 месяца назад

    24:40 - did it worked? Cause... It did not hold in my case, haha!

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  3 месяца назад

      The new OEM bolts held for me :)

    • @tom10crafted
      @tom10crafted 3 месяца назад

      @@FindingSeconds I am about coolant temp sensor black pin (which you re-used, old one)

    • @FindingSeconds
      @FindingSeconds  3 месяца назад

      Ah sorry! I thought I found the right time but I failed :( Yes it did work. Did yours break then?

    • @tom10crafted
      @tom10crafted 3 месяца назад +1

      @@FindingSeconds np! What happened is that I lost the new pin(felt down with no trace, haha) and tried adding old back. It sit snug and all looked fine (checked after running idle) until… car heated up and it began not to hold up the sensor(somehow). I am quite positive it was unbroken as well as installed properly (both sides equal, etc). Will try to inspect later today whats an issue and why it did not hold - been doing it without charger off, thus its a pain 🙈

    • @tom10crafted
      @tom10crafted 3 месяца назад +1

      @@FindingSeconds update! It was bent o-ring, not the pin issue :)

  • @keepthinking2666
    @keepthinking2666 4 месяца назад +1

    Knipex front pliers will take them off