@@kidR0BOT I bet you are right. As an oldish DIYer who once worked the retail aisles in the electric dept, my intuition is telling me LL, LB, LR refer to orientation of the box cover to the lugs, i.e. Left, Back, Right.
Knowledgeable. Detail oriented. Intelligent. Critical thinker. This is the kind of guy I would want on any project. Thank you for sharing your best practices and everything else. There needs to be more of you out there.
Great that people got out of their way to produce so many DIY vidios but entire vidio should be code compliant. Not only dangerous but sure johnny homeowner that flunks an inspection because he followed a flawed vidio. I've been a sparky for over 50 years and went to over a hundred continuing education classes and read two separate code questions of the day and still learning and trying to keep up with the over thousand code changes every three years when the newest NEC book comes out.
This was a great video. As a professional electrician myself, but mostly commercial/industrial background, this was easily the best video I came across showing wiring a hot tub. Specifically I was looking at wiring methods at the hot tub itself, comparing Teck90 (Canada), to PVC, seal tite, I can't tell you how fun this video was to watch. I watched it on double speed it was awesome. You are very detail oriented and have great vocabulary. There is no way I could explain out loud what I'm doing, as I'm doing it the way that you do.
This has to be the best how to video I have ever seen. Nice job. Crazy good video. This installer could also be a phenomenal training class instructor/teacher.
I loved this video because it seems like you take your work way to serious “as do I” this has to be one of the best videos on RUclips thank you so much!!!
Your ongoing commentary during your work is fantastic for us DIY guys.. I love the little insights you give, especially the one about connecting two whites in the panel to same slot.. making sure the other breaker is off…
That was an AMAZING tutorial! Best educational one I have ever seen for us non-electricians. If you were in my area, I would hire you in a heartbeat! Thanks.
Joel the content is just superb you are the man. Nice tip on drilling large holes with a smaller drill - in the UK it’s called stitch drilling, or you could use a core drill. I like the Marx man pen a lot for location positioning and drill anchors identification.
Hi there. I'm russian electrician. And i saw you work in live panel. can't tell i dont do that too. i do it a lot in much more dangerous enviroments. but my experience shows me that only experienced electricians (like you) get in trouble with the voltage. they think they know everything, and they dont afraid of the power anymore. and that's there they make mistakes. keep that in mind when work in live panels. the power is invisible but deadly. be safe)
when you were talking about PVC conduit in the ground and separation that happens after installing it, I totally agree, I use HDPE conduit and transition to PVC coming out of the ground and transition before goin into buildings, a lot of Utility Power Companies use HDPE conduit during the installation phase of a new subdivision, HDPE is rated the same as schedule 40 PVC but with no connection points to separate, such as a 10' piece of schedule 40, HDPE conduit comes on a reel and can be laid in a trench the full length without any glued splice points
As a sparky in the uk it’s interesting to see the difference in American to uk electrics One thing just to add as we have to drill through brick/concrete a lot if you can’t get one of the larger hammer drills you can use smaller drill bits and work your way up ie 10mm,20mm,25mm,30mm the larger the drill bit the smaller the increments. Also even with the larger drills I would recommend doing a smaller pre drill before so your 100% in the right place and it also goes a lot quicker
Great vid! Lots of good, embedded pro tips. However, I would have used THWN-2 for the entire installation based on 300-9. Really enjoy your channel and content.
Thank you for your video. I really appreciate all the tips, as the installation instructions that came with our spa were useless. The tip on the expansion and shrinkage was very helpful, considering our local temperatures have been in the high 90s. I also appreciate you mentioning using liquidtite inside the spa. I had not thought of that.
46:22 You should have ditched the LB and gotten an LL. The conduit running down the wall of the house looks janky to me, too. The connection on the box is much farther from the wall surface than the LB going into the house. Bringing that LB off of the house (with some conduit that I'd want through the brick anyways) would have looked nicer. I don't know for sure whether it's really a problem, but I don't like the stress/bend on the PVC beneath the hot-tub, either. Either dig the trench straight, or put the appropriate bends into the conduit. But, that's me.
I'm very impressed with the hot tub wiring installation you completed - it's outstanding. On the other hand, the existing wiring in the house could improve cable management; it's not as tidy and well-arranged as your work.
I am receiving my hot tub today, no electrician are available before next week. My wife is more than eager to get in the hot tub….with your video I’m confident that I will do a great job! And I will save money. Thank you so much!!!
You mentioned terminal covers for the main lugs as a common feature in newer panels, and I always found it fascinating that US panels are built like that because Canadian panels actually require a physically separate section for the main lugs so that there's no ability to accidentally touch the always energized incoming cables. Makes it so much safer to work in the panel, especially when you're able to turn off the main breaker.
Absolute brilliant that Canada required separate section for main circuit breaker. Can not understand how clown Candian produced DIY shows constantly show dangerous practice of installing panels side ways. If somebody turns any of the top row circuit breakers off handles are in dangerous up while off position. If something was to hit that breaker circuit would be energized. Yes you are supposed to install LOTO on circuit that you are working on but homeowners never do. At the very least these clown shows must show a disclaimer stating that practice is not legal in the USA.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp I'm not sure when the code changed in Canada, but it used to be perfectly legal to install a panel sideways here. My parents had their house rewired in the early 80s, and their breaker panel was installed that way and passed inspection. It's absolutely a terrible practice and definitely illegal now, but I think it's common to see because it used to be a very normal thing to do.
Those big hammerdrills can do a number on a guys head when they "lock up" right before penetration or in cement with rebar. Ive told many a guy that and then they learn !! Actually, you get a quick lockup on the bit a lotta times right before penetration on a layer. When you feel that (and sometimes hear) i always back off hard on pressure and let the drill spin so the bit doesnt bite and throw you. Sometimes I even run the hammerdrill fast in reverse so that it doesnt bite and throw you on the final stroke on a layer. YOU ARE ON POINT !!
Very helpful! Would this need to be equipotentially bonded given the distance to the house and fences? If so, where would you connect the bonding wire?
Loving the content, your attention to detail and ethos! Might have to schedule a consult on my electrical plans here in Oakland, CA - 200A service upgrade, adding second meter and subpanel for ADU - wish Jefferson Electric were in the Bay Area!
I imagine that an LR or LL conduit body fitting would have been preferable over the common LB that was fitted in this situation. Totally understandable though. Gota work with what you got. An LR conduit body would have allowed for the TW wire to be pulled
Well, an LL should have been used for the branch circuit to the spa. I really don't agree, [you have to work with what you have.] The correct conduit body should have been accounted for on the initial material take-off, as nearly everthing else was. If it was overlooked then a trip to the supply house to get the correct part should have been made. Cost of doing business.
NM cable is not code compliant because it has a #10 ground. Better to run a raceway that you can pull the #8 equipment ground from the main panel in the house to the terminals / bonding bar on the hot tub I know this because I did the same thing first time in wired a hot tub 🤷♂️
This was an excellent video for wiring my hot tub. The inspector thought that the job was done well enough that it could easily pass as one done by an electrician. The only glitch I had was that my specific hot tub does not use the neutral to the tub but connects back into breaker box via the neutral bar in the shutoff breaker box. It took some research to figure that out. Otherwise it was easy to follow.
at 1:01:30 If you have a neutral terminal rated for 2 neutral conductors under 1 terminal... There is no such thing, The panel UL listing does not allow it and it has been Explicitly banned in the NEC since 2002. However, Grounding wires can be doubled and sometimes tripled when they go into a Neutral Bar and this can lead to confusion. Neutrals CANNOT be doubled!
So true. Most cable installers in my neck of the woods are hacks. Most of them are driving minivans with temporary plates from out of state, sometimes even expired. When a sidewalk on a street near me was replaced, they chopped a good number of peoples cable because it was not deep enough. One time I even had to report a cable tech to the power company because I saw him looking inside there equipment on the street to try to get a cable to a house.
1:21:03 Where I live that hot tub would require equipotential bonding by NEC due to the wall being so close and a metal pipe nearby. The pipe is the biggest issue. 8 awg solid coper loop and connections. I may be wrong but I didn't see 8 awg anywhere, forgive me if I'm incorrect. 26:57 - that window with a metal enclosure also need to be bonded. Enclosure is grounded and is plain scary
I said to myself I would no longer comment on these videos because I use the NEC as a general guide for an electrical installation. With local amendments acknowledged, which was clearly mentioned to me by the author. But this installation looks a little sketchy: Clearance from spa to electrical equipment; bonding; future access to the branch circuit spa wiring through the LB conduit body (will a serviceman be able to remove that LB cover with a screw driver?); stripping the jacket from the wiring of the NM cable. PVC conduit is a means of mechanical protection for NM cable. The individual wires are, in themselves not listed to be installed in a conduit or system. NEC 310.8; 1:01:22 - Code language was added in the 2002 NEC 408.41 prohibiting more than one grounded conductor per terminal. Prior to that it was a UL listing (UL67) enforced by 110.3(B) and 110.14(A). Not saying that you would do this.
@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks for the kind reply and clarification on your local permissions. Not meaning to beat a dead horse. But I was also looking at metalic objects requiring bonding within 5 feet or the inside walls of the tub as article 680.26(B)(7) outlines. The camera can distort or not offer an actual account of acctually being on the job. I'm sure you would have made certain that metalic unassociated disconnects and meter base were outside the 5 foot bonding requirement. Keep up the videos!
Cool video and great work, I work in hvac so I know what it’s like dealing with thick wires in small boxes 😫, I always get fatter disconnects just for that reason.
Great video and detail. On question about the ground wiring. If the spa wire is # 6 don't you need a #8 ground. You said in the video the ground was a #10. Also, doesn't the ground wire need to be insulated for a spa? Looked like it was only insulated ground wire between the disconnect and the spa, the rest was bare.
Number 10 wire for ground is plenty. You can use a #6 ground for a 200amp service. Ground wire going to panel does not have to be insulated. Only problem I see with this installation was not using an LL for the #12 romex. And installing a 15 amp gfci on a 20 amp breaker
Good video. I would hate to post my work and have people nit pick on it. We have local codes that don't allow us to use romex to a Hot Tub Disconnect. They require insulated ground from the indoor panel. We pipe and pull everything. That was a strange GFCI cover you had there. Never seen one. We also are required to use expandable covers. We do a hot tub almost everyday. That's about 1500 for us. But maybe I should take another look at our prices. About 5-6 hours for 1 guy. My local also won't let us fill the conduit like that. They count all conductors by the largest size so you would have had 5 #6 by our local standards. As if code isn't bad enough they have to locally make it worse. I would have put a 50 amp CH on the inside. Not sure why you didn't since everything was sized for it. Good stuff. Keep up the good work. Got to be a pain having someone video and edit these things for you. Respect.
15:29 it won't move or wear out if you're dealing with conduit, back panels, and boxes that are mounted well and do not shift... The problems happen when they become loose and start moving/flexing.
If it's convenient consider drilling as many holes as you can in the mortar, versus brick. Brick can't be repaired, only replaced. The mortar is designed to expand and contract and it's less dusty.
Great video !! So, I basically I did the same scope of work today. My Tub has been sitting empty for just over 4 months now, I moved. And sadly when I powered up the spa pack, it tripped immediately, a coupple a flashing lights on the spa mother board. Dam it !! :( I guess I'm calling my spa guys for a service call on Monday.
Joel... Great reminder concerning PVC expanding and contracting. An a retired owner of a landscaping company, I had many instances from other companies where glued joints failed because the pipes weren't properly "climatized". Here in Oregon, fluctuations in the winter and summer can be quite frustrating for the inexperienced greenhorn. 🙂
I made the mistake of buying pvc gutters and they had rubber seals to let gutter slide in and out at each 10-foot piece into a fixed bracket. you had to pick how far into bracket each end was depending on temperature. but the seals would tear and wear out so it leaked at each section, and you could not caulk it
I like the little right-angle block for the raintight electrical outlet i have a fishpond where it is hard to get the plugs in the cover do they sell that separately or is there an easy way to get more raintight outlets i can plug pumps and lights for pond into i need 4 always plugged in raintight outlets
I don't understand the 40amp breaker at the main panel, and a 50amp breaker in the sub panel. Don't they have to be the same or the sub panel be smaller than the main feed?
@@jovetj But wouldn't installing a 50amp breaker in the sub panel be pointless since the 40amp breaker in the main panel would trip before the load can draw 50amps? I will watch the video again; maybe I missed something.
@@dungeonviper2606 It's not pointless because it came with the disconnect enclosure. The 50A breaker's job is not to serve as overload protection for the circuit. It's merely to be there to be shut off or reset. Like fuses, basic circuit breakers protect against two types of dysfunction: overload, and short circuit. The 40A breaker on the main panel protects against those since it's the lowest rated.
@@dungeonviper2606 Yup. It's a disconnect (on/off switch, or pull block) that the Code says is required. It just happens to be a circuit breaker. But, it's also a GFCI, which is also required (somewhere). No need to apologize, we're all learners here and I'm no expert either!
Glue on the NM jacket, stripping the NM jacket leaving unlabeled wires, NM outside when you can transition to THWN indoors, running wire in an incomplete conduit, an LB that is the wrong choice for the application? I've enjoyed a lot of your videos, but this is not a good example of what should be done
do you think putting a small piece or patch of 10mil tape over those lugs as a backup safety for the possible unexpected movement of the bare ground? just a thought. i saw during the second ground term. as you were cutting get DAMN CLOSE to the lug for just a moment in time
Joel, Love your videos, many young apprentice look up to you. With that said we all learn from each other and as a professional It is unacceptable knowingly do something that isn’t correct just because you don’t have the correct materials I do have a couple of concerns I was disappointed that you did not use a LL The next guy that comes along will surly try to trash your Reputation. Romex not permitted in wet location as you stated all exterior conduits are considered wet locations. You May want to consider using UF cable in this application Spa installation The Big violation that stands out is. yes a disconnect is required but the type that you use is a key factor: In a residential application the code does allow a exception for single family dwellings for the use of Romex when used as a Branch circuit requiring a non fused or pull out disconnect requiring Gfci protection in the main panel. With the Gfci in the outside disconnect the wiring method between the main panel and the o.s disconnect is now no longer a branch circuit by definition. A is now considered a feeder and all feeder for pool pool equipment panel boards are required to have a insulated E.G conductor
I understand a GFCI breaker is required for the tub. Is it necessary or required to have two breakers, inside and outside? Could a GFCI be used in the main panel and a simple disconnect be outside?
Wouldn't an LL connection make more sense for access off of the disconnect box to the spa?
That’s kinda lame. As the homeowner, I would have wanted a LL. Easy to get one unless you’re at a remote install.
@@Citizen16603 how many electricians know of LL’s and LR’s let alone homeowners
@@kidR0BOT I bet you are right. As an oldish DIYer who once worked the retail aisles in the electric dept, my intuition is telling me LL, LB, LR refer to orientation of the box cover to the lugs, i.e. Left, Back, Right.
@@Citizen16603 the only person that even notices that stuff is the electrician.
@@kidR0BOT Most....
Knowledgeable. Detail oriented. Intelligent. Critical thinker. This is the kind of guy I would want on any project. Thank you for sharing your best practices and everything else. There needs to be more of you out there.
As long as you don't want a code compliant install.
😮😮😮😮@@leesummers6979
Nobody explains this stuff better than you, Joel. Nobody!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Love the positive attitude, the humbleness, and the eagerness to teach.
The attention to detail is phenomenal these are some tips and techniques only a pro would know.
Great that people got out of their way to produce so many DIY vidios but entire vidio should be code compliant. Not only dangerous but sure johnny homeowner that flunks an inspection because he followed a flawed vidio. I've been a sparky for over 50 years and went to over a hundred continuing education classes and read two separate code questions of the day and still learning and trying to keep up with the over thousand code changes every three years when the newest NEC book comes out.
This was a great video. As a professional electrician myself, but mostly commercial/industrial background, this was easily the best video I came across showing wiring a hot tub. Specifically I was looking at wiring methods at the hot tub itself, comparing Teck90 (Canada), to PVC, seal tite, I can't tell you how fun this video was to watch. I watched it on double speed it was awesome. You are very detail oriented and have great vocabulary. There is no way I could explain out loud what I'm doing, as I'm doing it the way that you do.
This has to be the best how to video I have ever seen. Nice job. Crazy good video. This installer could also be a phenomenal training class instructor/teacher.
My thoughts as well.
Love the detailed explanations. Best electrician on youtube.
I loved this video because it seems like you take your work way to serious “as do I” this has to be one of the best videos on RUclips thank you so much!!!
Your electrical videos are the best on RUclips. Nobody is this detailed. Great stuff.
Your ongoing commentary during your work is fantastic for us DIY guys.. I love the little insights you give, especially the one about connecting two whites in the panel to same slot.. making sure the other breaker is off…
This is the most thorough electrical content ever. Keep it up, man!
3m in and already the best hot tub install video of the 12 I have watched by far.
at 15:20 you remind me of my very first journeyman. his quote, "everything vibrates. whether you can see it or not"
This is a great video and I think you are the most detailed electrician I have found. I am very grateful that you made this video. Thank you!
Most eloquent and elegant presentation!
That was an AMAZING tutorial! Best educational one I have ever seen for us non-electricians. If you were in my area, I would hire you in a heartbeat! Thanks.
Joel the content is just superb you are the man. Nice tip on drilling large holes with a smaller drill - in the UK it’s called stitch drilling, or you could use a core drill. I like the Marx man pen a lot for location positioning and drill anchors identification.
I started watching the video for entertainment then it turned into almost a class session, and I loved it! Thanks for the video
Extremely helpful. So much learnt and so much safety tips in every single step from a professional. Thanks for making such a channel. 🙏
Hi there. I'm russian electrician. And i saw you work in live panel. can't tell i dont do that too. i do it a lot in much more dangerous enviroments. but my experience shows me that only experienced electricians (like you) get in trouble with the voltage. they think they know everything, and they dont afraid of the power anymore. and that's there they make mistakes. keep that in mind when work in live panels. the power is invisible but deadly. be safe)
Awesome video man! I feel like I know everything I need to do this for my own hot tub tomorrow. Appreciate the thorough explanations.
when you were talking about PVC conduit in the ground and separation that happens after installing it, I totally agree, I use HDPE conduit and transition to PVC coming out of the ground and transition before goin into buildings, a lot of Utility Power Companies use HDPE conduit during the installation phase of a new subdivision, HDPE is rated the same as schedule 40 PVC but with no connection points to separate, such as a 10' piece of schedule 40, HDPE conduit comes on a reel and can be laid in a trench the full length without any glued splice points
Great video and great quality! I enjoyed watching this all the way through. Thank you for the helpful content. I highly recommend it!
Great video!! really well done. Thanks for sharing.
wow, this is some superb content. Thanks for sharing! Subscribed
I enjoy your videos, been in the business for 40 years - GREAT work !
Very well explained good job man
I got those same boulder bags. Love em
Thanks Joel! Great video
Just what I needed
As a sparky in the uk it’s interesting to see the difference in American to uk electrics
One thing just to add as we have to drill through brick/concrete a lot if you can’t get one of the larger hammer drills you can use smaller drill bits and work your way up ie 10mm,20mm,25mm,30mm the larger the drill bit the smaller the increments.
Also even with the larger drills I would recommend doing a smaller pre drill before so your 100% in the right place and it also goes a lot quicker
Great vid! Lots of good, embedded pro tips. However, I would have used THWN-2 for the entire installation based on 300-9. Really enjoy your channel and content.
Thank you for your video. I really appreciate all the tips, as the installation instructions that came with our spa were useless. The tip on the expansion and shrinkage was very helpful, considering our local temperatures have been in the high 90s. I also appreciate you mentioning using liquidtite inside the spa. I had not thought of that.
After watching your video, I'm ready to install my new bullfrog Hot Tub, Thank you and great video :)
46:22 You should have ditched the LB and gotten an LL.
The conduit running down the wall of the house looks janky to me, too. The connection on the box is much farther from the wall surface than the LB going into the house. Bringing that LB off of the house (with some conduit that I'd want through the brick anyways) would have looked nicer.
I don't know for sure whether it's really a problem, but I don't like the stress/bend on the PVC beneath the hot-tub, either. Either dig the trench straight, or put the appropriate bends into the conduit.
But, that's me.
I'm very impressed with the hot tub wiring installation you completed - it's outstanding. On the other hand, the existing wiring in the house could improve cable management; it's not as tidy and well-arranged as your work.
I am receiving my hot tub today, no electrician are available before next week. My wife is more than eager to get in the hot tub….with your video I’m confident that I will do a great job! And I will save money. Thank you so much!!!
Great instructional video. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing cost of material/permit and labor. great video and voice over
you could use an LL instead of LB to have more space to pull the wire :)
Such a helpful informative video by a real pro
This gives me more confidence for when I run power for my new spa. I won't be going underground though but under my deck so it'll be a bit different.
Thank you for this video, i installed my hot tub sub panel first try no issues!!
You mentioned terminal covers for the main lugs as a common feature in newer panels, and I always found it fascinating that US panels are built like that because Canadian panels actually require a physically separate section for the main lugs so that there's no ability to accidentally touch the always energized incoming cables. Makes it so much safer to work in the panel, especially when you're able to turn off the main breaker.
Absolute brilliant that Canada required separate section for main circuit breaker. Can not understand how clown Candian produced DIY shows constantly show dangerous practice of installing panels side ways. If somebody turns any of the top row circuit breakers off handles are in dangerous up while off position. If something was to hit that breaker circuit would be energized. Yes you are supposed to install LOTO on circuit that you are working on but homeowners never do. At the very least these clown shows must show a disclaimer stating that practice is not legal in the USA.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp I'm not sure when the code changed in Canada, but it used to be perfectly legal to install a panel sideways here. My parents had their house rewired in the early 80s, and their breaker panel was installed that way and passed inspection.
It's absolutely a terrible practice and definitely illegal now, but I think it's common to see because it used to be a very normal thing to do.
Those big hammerdrills can do a number on a guys head when they "lock up" right before penetration or in cement with rebar. Ive told many a guy that and then they learn !! Actually, you get a quick lockup on the bit a lotta times right before penetration on a layer. When you feel that (and sometimes hear) i always back off hard on pressure and let the drill spin so the bit doesnt bite and throw you. Sometimes I even run the hammerdrill fast in reverse so that it doesnt bite and throw you on the final stroke on a layer.
YOU ARE ON POINT !!
Not installing a Spa, but I’m really impressed with the detail !
Fantastic A-Z walkthrough, Joel. Your videos are the best quality videos I've seen. Outstanding. Wish I would have found your channel sooner :)
I like to use a pair of needle nose without a cutting face when working in a panel like that. Learned that one the hard way
Neat wiring at the panel
But not in the disconnect box! Ugh, what a mess. The line wires definitely should have come up from the bottom.
Very helpful! Would this need to be equipotentially bonded given the distance to the house and fences? If so, where would you connect the bonding wire?
Loving the content, your attention to detail and ethos! Might have to schedule a consult on my electrical plans here in Oakland, CA - 200A service upgrade, adding second meter and subpanel for ADU - wish Jefferson Electric were in the Bay Area!
Outstanding! Thanks for all the tips. Learned a lot.
Excellent Video! AHJ where I live would have nailed you for not transitioning from Romax once you hit the first LB coming through the wall.
I imagine that an LR or LL conduit body fitting would have been preferable over the common LB that was fitted in this situation.
Totally understandable though. Gota work with what you got.
An LR conduit body would have allowed for the TW wire to be pulled
Well, an LL should have been used for the branch circuit to the spa. I really don't agree, [you have to work with what you have.] The correct conduit body should have been accounted for on the initial material take-off, as nearly everthing else was. If it was overlooked then a trip to the supply house to get the correct part should have been made. Cost of doing business.
@@donl1410 I see someone who posts their electrical installations on IG and they use LBs for every scenario. It is really annoying to my OCD.
@@illestofdemall13 I think anything other than an LB looks weird, but it isn't always the right one for the job.
At 3:45… shouldn’t the ground be a minimum of a #8 in accordance with 680.43 E (3) to facilitate proper bonding?
NM cable is not code compliant because it has a #10 ground. Better to run a raceway that you can pull the #8 equipment ground from the main panel in the house to the terminals / bonding bar on the hot tub
I know this because I did the same thing first time in wired a hot tub
🤷♂️
This was an excellent video for wiring my hot tub. The inspector thought that the job was done well enough that it could easily pass as one done by an electrician. The only glitch I had was that my specific hot tub does not use the neutral to the tub but connects back into breaker box via the neutral bar in the shutoff breaker box. It took some research to figure that out. Otherwise it was easy to
follow.
Great video, learned alot.
at 1:01:30 If you have a neutral terminal rated for 2 neutral conductors under 1 terminal... There is no such thing, The panel UL listing does not allow it and it has been Explicitly banned in the NEC since 2002. However, Grounding wires can be doubled and sometimes tripled when they go into a Neutral Bar and this can lead to confusion. Neutrals CANNOT be doubled!
AWESOME THANK YOU!
Nice job, I would have used an LL conduit for code accessibility to any condulett body.
i love that part 18" deep.... NOT CABLE INSTALLER DEPTH... lmaooo so damn true
So true. Most cable installers in my neck of the woods are hacks. Most of them are driving minivans with temporary plates from out of state, sometimes even expired. When a sidewalk on a street near me was replaced, they chopped a good number of peoples cable because it was not deep enough. One time I even had to report a cable tech to the power company because I saw him looking inside there equipment on the street to try to get a cable to a house.
1:21:03 Where I live that hot tub would require equipotential bonding by NEC due to the wall being so close and a metal pipe nearby. The pipe is the biggest issue. 8 awg solid coper loop and connections. I may be wrong but I didn't see 8 awg anywhere, forgive me if I'm incorrect. 26:57 - that window with a metal enclosure also need to be bonded. Enclosure is grounded and is plain scary
I said to myself I would no longer comment on these videos because I use the NEC as a general guide for an electrical installation. With local amendments acknowledged, which was clearly mentioned to me by the author. But this installation looks a little sketchy: Clearance from spa to electrical equipment; bonding; future access to the branch circuit spa wiring through the LB conduit body (will a serviceman be able to remove that LB cover with a screw driver?); stripping the jacket from the wiring of the NM cable. PVC conduit is a means of mechanical protection for NM cable. The individual wires are, in themselves not listed to be installed in a conduit or system. NEC 310.8; 1:01:22 - Code language was added in the 2002 NEC 408.41 prohibiting more than one grounded conductor per terminal. Prior to that it was a UL listing (UL67) enforced by 110.3(B) and 110.14(A). Not saying that you would do this.
@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks for that. Looks handy.
@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks for the kind reply and clarification on your local permissions. Not meaning to beat a dead horse. But I was also looking at metalic objects requiring bonding within 5 feet or the inside walls of the tub as article 680.26(B)(7) outlines. The camera can distort or not offer an actual account of acctually being on the job. I'm sure you would have made certain that metalic unassociated disconnects and meter base were outside the 5 foot bonding requirement.
Keep up the videos!
Cool video and great work, I work in hvac so I know what it’s like dealing with thick wires in small boxes 😫, I always get fatter disconnects just for that reason.
Great video and detail. On question about the ground wiring. If the spa wire is # 6 don't you need a #8 ground. You said in the video the ground was a #10. Also, doesn't the ground wire need to be insulated for a spa? Looked like it was only insulated ground wire between the disconnect and the spa, the rest was bare.
I agree with insulated all the way to main panel. Also #8 would have been ok for the whole run.
Number 10 wire for ground is plenty. You can use a #6 ground for a 200amp service. Ground wire going to panel does not have to be insulated. Only problem I see with this installation was not using an LL for the #12 romex. And installing a 15 amp gfci on a 20 amp breaker
Super impressive. Not the installation, but the confidence to upload this.
Looks like a kijiji job. You can do better, quote accordingly 👍
Loved the tutorial. No PVC primer?
Nice work.
That panel, though... The romex zip tied together as it swung across the huge gap to the wall there just made me wince.
You CAN put romex in a conduit, but NOT in this scenario, code prohibits it from in conduit in wet locations, which means, not outdoor.
Also prohibited to strip romex and use as he is whether outside or not.
Even if the , conducters inside the romex is thhn 2?
Who cares
You can use NM in conduit but it has to be derated more often than not soooooo is it economical?
Romex in conduit for few feet is fine and since it's above ground it's ok for heat disapation. Thwn is used for the actual run.
Awesome!! thank you
LR would been perfect for that application! Nice job
*LL
I could be wrong, but I don't think you can use a disconnect as raceway and pass through to feed your GFCI.
Agreed, I can see a home owner thinking the disconnect turns off the GFI.
@@georgewright2010 I can see a homeowner thinking two holes in his house for two wires is one too many when both wires can fit thru one hole.
What wire did u run to the disconnect? Code says u should use thwn to run wire outside the house.
Just ran several feet of wire and your instruction made it very easy. Thank you!
Good video. I would hate to post my work and have people nit pick on it. We have local codes that don't allow us to use romex to a Hot Tub Disconnect. They require insulated ground from the indoor panel. We pipe and pull everything. That was a strange GFCI cover you had there. Never seen one. We also are required to use expandable covers. We do a hot tub almost everyday. That's about 1500 for us. But maybe I should take another look at our prices. About 5-6 hours for 1 guy. My local also won't let us fill the conduit like that. They count all conductors by the largest size so you would have had 5 #6 by our local standards. As if code isn't bad enough they have to locally make it worse. I would have put a 50 amp CH on the inside. Not sure why you didn't since everything was sized for it. Good stuff. Keep up the good work. Got to be a pain having someone video and edit these things for you. Respect.
@@ElectricProAcademy I'm in St. Louis. I own a company a lot like yours called Accurate Electric.
Your a real pro
Why you used a 15A GFCI in a 20A circuit?
15:29 it won't move or wear out if you're dealing with conduit, back panels, and boxes that are mounted well and do not shift... The problems happen when they become loose and start moving/flexing.
wow what a amazing video
If it's convenient consider drilling as many holes as you can in the mortar, versus brick. Brick can't be repaired, only replaced. The mortar is designed to expand and contract and it's less dusty.
Great video !! So, I basically I did the same scope of work today. My Tub has been sitting empty for just over 4 months now, I moved. And sadly when I powered up the spa pack, it tripped immediately, a coupple a flashing lights on the spa mother board. Dam it !! :( I guess I'm calling my spa guys for a service call on Monday.
Joel... Great reminder concerning PVC expanding and contracting. An a retired owner of a landscaping company, I had many instances from other companies where glued joints failed because the pipes weren't properly "climatized". Here in Oregon, fluctuations in the winter and summer can be quite frustrating for the inexperienced greenhorn. 🙂
I made the mistake of buying pvc gutters and they had rubber seals to let gutter slide in and out at each 10-foot piece into a fixed bracket. you had to pick how far into bracket each end was depending on temperature. but the seals would tear and wear out so it leaked at each section, and you could not caulk it
@@ranger178 The great thermal PVC expansion is news to me too. I'm here to learn.
Like someone else said, should've used an LL so the cover was facing forward instead of to the left where it can't be opened or used properly.
what about for the 6' clearance rule? Romex in a wet location? Was the EGC a #10? Never would pass in my area.
Must be in some hick dukes of Hazzard backward location.
Is the receptacle required by code also
Did I miss it. Did he seal the wires where they entered building as required by NEC to prevent condensation building up.
I like the little right-angle block for the raintight electrical outlet i have a fishpond where it is hard to get the plugs in the cover do they sell that separately or is there an easy way to get more raintight outlets i can plug pumps and lights for pond into i need 4 always plugged in raintight outlets
I don't understand the 40amp breaker at the main panel, and a 50amp breaker in the sub panel. Don't they have to be the same or the sub panel be smaller than the main feed?
It doesn't matter which is smaller as long as one of them is correctly sized for the load and operating characteristics (e.g. wire gauge) .
@@jovetj But wouldn't installing a 50amp breaker in the sub panel be pointless since the 40amp breaker in the main panel would trip before the load can draw 50amps? I will watch the video again; maybe I missed something.
@@dungeonviper2606 It's not pointless because it came with the disconnect enclosure. The 50A breaker's job is not to serve as overload protection for the circuit. It's merely to be there to be shut off or reset.
Like fuses, basic circuit breakers protect against two types of dysfunction: overload, and short circuit. The 40A breaker on the main panel protects against those since it's the lowest rated.
@@jovetj So it's just an On/Off switch... Sorry for all the questions, I am just really trying to understand and that one had me confused...
@@dungeonviper2606 Yup. It's a disconnect (on/off switch, or pull block) that the Code says is required. It just happens to be a circuit breaker. But, it's also a GFCI, which is also required (somewhere).
No need to apologize, we're all learners here and I'm no expert either!
Glue on the NM jacket, stripping the NM jacket leaving unlabeled wires, NM outside when you can transition to THWN indoors, running wire in an incomplete conduit, an LB that is the wrong choice for the application? I've enjoyed a lot of your videos, but this is not a good example of what should be done
Are the conductors leading to the tub #6 wire?
Can someone explain the purpose of installing the 20amp GFCI outlet as well?
Do you need to run.a green wire for grounding the tub or can you use the bare copper wire that comes with the 3 conductor cable?
do you think putting a small piece or patch of 10mil tape over those lugs as a backup safety for the possible unexpected movement of the bare ground? just a thought. i saw during the second ground term. as you were cutting get DAMN CLOSE to the lug for just a moment in time
Joel,
Love your videos, many young apprentice look up to you. With that said we all learn from each other and as a professional It is unacceptable knowingly do something that isn’t correct just because you don’t have the correct materials
I do have a couple of concerns
I was disappointed that you did not use a LL
The next guy that comes along will surly try to trash your Reputation.
Romex not permitted in wet location as you stated all exterior conduits are considered wet locations.
You May want to consider using UF cable in this application
Spa installation
The Big violation that stands out is. yes a disconnect is required but the type that you use is a key factor:
In a residential application the code does allow a exception for single family dwellings for the use of Romex when used as a Branch circuit requiring a non fused or pull out disconnect requiring Gfci protection in the main panel.
With the Gfci in the outside disconnect the wiring method between the main panel and the o.s disconnect is now no longer a branch circuit by definition. A is now considered a feeder and all feeder for pool pool equipment panel boards are required to have a insulated E.G conductor
Wow so interesting. Could you reference a couple codes for my review? Always learning!
I understand a GFCI breaker is required for the tub. Is it necessary or required to have two breakers, inside and outside? Could a GFCI be used in the main panel and a simple disconnect be outside?
Please do a through review on multimeter usage. Love your worK ethic, I’m from Indy great town really miss the races.
very nice job. however, the camera guy was a bit shaky while trying to get the closeup.