@@cr1m203 because most of the world doesn't have the money to do it mostly and the know how and skills typically come from trade school which again takes time money and commitment and most of all most home owners don't know the difference between quality and hazards due to the previously mentioned.
@@thecanadiantradesman7916 sucks to be those home owners then. As a home owner myself I didn’t need a license to have common sense in hazards. Every field has dangerous hazards. There is no such thing as a fit all solution unless a person has common sense for danger. I do my own electrical work, my own plumbing work and so on. I have went behind “licensed work” and to be honest a license doesn’t mean someone has common sense. Case in point, you need a drivers license to drive an automobile yet people have shown their ability not to be able to drive said vehicle.
I am an IT field engineer for over 22 years. In the early 2000's i got tired of waiting for electricians to run my conduit and wires for Rack related outlets and cables so I shadowed under a journeyman old timer (think he had over 30 years in the field) and he taught me more than I will ever remember. I can easily rewire regular houses, change meter sockets, even disconnect the wires from the poles (our utility carrier doesn't care because it is less for them to do). I say all that because, while I'm decent, I'm certainly no electrical pro, but neither do people doing their own electric on youtube warrant any extra "kudos" from me. HOWEVER, you impressed me with your A) DETAIL, B) KNOWLEDGE, C) INTEGRITY, and D) WORKMANSHIP. If I were to ever give up IT and go full blown electrician I would be honored to be able to work for your company! A+
The way you not only "butter" your customers up, but properly inform them on situations outside of your control is a skill. Your people skills are on point!
I was looking for someone to comment that, or take a small piece of cardboard to place under the hole you're drilling to keep shavings from falling into the panel.
Just a note on the leviton surge protector : you can use it as a normal branch circuit as well. I've seen a lot of installers not utilizing them as branches just leaving them unwired
23:41 needing more ground onto it... Leviton MAKES additional ground bars designed to mount into the panel in several places (including your top there...) and the ground bar which is at your bottom, can be moved to your top too!
After installing my first Leviton a couple years ago, this is now my first choice of panel. Ironically, these were readily available during the pandemic when Square D panels were regularly sold out in my area.
I was looking all over for an explanation about how to connect neutral to my Leviton breakers, and there you had it zoomed in and described in the last 3 minutes.
Thanks for posting this. I am installing this exact panel and you gave me great ideas. The access panel is gold! The insulated hex tool is gold too. Thx!
Man, I have some electrical knowledge already (not nearly as much as you) but you inspire me to do better with every facet. Perfect mixture of professionalism, delivery, concise and to the point. I love your 1 day out in the field.
the leviton panel is fun to have as there is a ton of choices in their products like the breakers. they have a smart breaker (wifi/afci/gfci and combined) i use them for power monitoring and see the trip status :)
I just swapped in a Leviton 42 space main lug in my home. The clear panel door looks awesome! Took me like 8 hours having never done a panel swap before. The breakers are often significantly discounted on Amazon. I just keep a couple extras on hand incase one craps out. Installed a 16 channel Emporia in the panel with plenty of room to spare. No guards for the main lugs. =(
I'm wondering if you heard me yelling at you about the "wrong" terminal neutral wire!😂. Then you went back and corrected it, so you must have heard me! Great videos. I've been doing electrical work for longer than I'd like to say, (retired now) and I seem to learn something from your videos everytime!
Great video - with more and more solar coming to residencies can you focus on the solar related code aspects more. I believe this would greatly help us all 😅
The top and bottom trim panels are a nice way to deal with the problem of fishing wire when replacing a panel. Interesting this was a Sylvania main panel. We built our house and have the same 200 Amp panel.
@@AidanSkoyles Has updated features and they are cheaper than most "good" panels. Plus they do look better. Availability is why I havent installed any yet.
In my area it's common to hook up a temporary panel right off the meter usually #4 aluminum with a little 50 amp temporary panel. It's done right when the power company shows up to pull the meter and we already have it ready to go for them. We don't bother with hard wired appliance (unless it's winter and there's a furnace) but it gives them a few extension cords to live off of in the meantime. One time a fella just plugged his RV into it and hung out in the air conditioning watching TV the whole time 😂🤙
Nice video. I work with lineman and one of them disconnected my power and helped me do my electrical panel. Passed inspection but spent an extra day in the dark as the power company had no record of the disconnect
I upgraded my home's electric alone a few years back to 200 amps new panel, meter base, 4/0 wire in a day. But what a hard day! I managed to get barely enough done to get the inspector to give it a pass and the power company to reconnect. It was not a final inspection as this was part of a kitchen upgrade. And connect just enough to take a shower.. And that only worked because I had every, and I mean every thing where it needed to be the day before. Tools, lights, ladders, all the materials, all the circuits labeled. And the linemen were willing to stick around a few minutes to allow me the last connections. Watching this reminds me that a lot of this is just hard work. It really is a hard job, especially on a hot day.
Did I miss something? Did you label the incoming wires before disassembling the old panel, so you would be able to best organize your circuits when you install the new panel? Example: keeping like areas together?
We have a Makita drywall saw that you can adjust for any drywall size and won't damage any cables. You need to get this tool you won't regret. Nice video by the way.
The extra ground bar that came with the panel could have been placed in the upper area on this panel. That is where I installed it on my new Leviton panel.
I switched over to these Leviton panels a few years back, there a bit heavy, but on new construction there great you can leave the breakers out and all the other subcontractors can’t be turning everything on.
Luv the video! I sold Leviton through a hardware store chain I used to work for back in the 80's and really love their new panel! I'd love to upgrade but its a mobile hime and really not neccessary... You did an awesome job! Thank You!
Loved the video and reference to the 120 rule - NEC 705.12(B)(3)(2) If you want to prevent this heart ache in the future look into Sunnova. Sunnova can help solar installation at every step of the way
Yo this vid got rec'd to me and I'd seen one of these lately and wondered how they differed from a traditional panel - cool to see such an in-depth show of how it goes in etc. And you're local to me! Subscribed for sure.
it seems they've read my crazy online ramblings long ago and out came plug on neutral. meanwhile I absolutely hate (TR) tamper resistant devices, it takes to much plug insertion depth before making contact and a slight bump put's them on the edge of disconnection, which means poor contact and overheating. nothing like replacing melted receptacles, and plugs.
@6:34: I started this video thinking, "What's this marketing BS going to be?", but that really is a nice feature. That panel is quite nice and has several features I should've thought of.
Good to see you're still looking after your customer. By the way, I'm pretty sure the Span panel you referenced does NOT adhere to Matter protocols, so I doubt it will have a long service life.
I do agree with the comments below you really take pride on what you do. Thank you very much for sharing all this content to help apprentices like me in this beautiful trade. Be safe , greettings Joel!!!!!!!!!!!
This video reminds me of why I don't do electrical work, coming from 3 generations of electricians, lol. I've been on too many jobs like this where panel swaps or service changes turn into a nightmare. I'm glad I know the trade, but I don't want to do it for a living.
Finally someone installed white chocolate and film it I really appreciate I am contractor living in California my concern is if cal state city or county inspector will allow this product installation Also it would be great if you can lecture what is the better of this than current manufacturer like siemens or square d great job appreciate your video
We had a customer many years ago that was complaining about their heater not being able to heat their home when it was rated to heat a home twice as big. They did not complain at all about the real problem. Ever time the wind blown it would blow right through the walls.
Much nicer lookin, cleaner, and more modern than standard installs. I'm curious about the cost difference and how well that plastic will hold up over time. Usually heat and age will discolor and embrittle plastics like that. Standard installs should last 70+ years.
I need a new panel and I like the functionality of this one! All of my cable is run in conduit, it would seem like a nightmare getting all those pipes re-attached. Also it seems like you were fortunate here that there was plenty of neutral wire for each circuit. I was expecting to see a bunch of joins.
If you get a chance to do another job with solar power being the source. Could you go into more detail about the use of the bonding screw? I would just really like to wrap my mind around the why in on main panels, but not on sub panels. Great video, wow that panel look nice, makes me want to go out and get one.
I'm satisfied with my utility as a public service. Getting a pole disconnect and reconnect from the utility can be unreliable schedule wise without sometimes weeks in advance notice. 40 years safe disconnect and reconnect at point of attachment and I am not getting complacent. My utility jurisdiction overhead lateral ends there if accessible.
They recommend using those surge breakers because they trip if the surge suppressor fails. So having a commonly used light or outlet to dark triggers the homeowner to call an electrician who can then replace the surge suppressor that isn't working anymore.
Great video! Would someone explain what he's doing at 25:06? Looks like connecting the two added ground bars with a copper jumper, but would they not already be connected via the panel?
@@ElectricProAcademy Love it, thanks for the reply! And where is the copper strand on the right ground bar headed off to? Looks like the top of the panel somewhere?
Nice looking panel and great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So you installed two access panels, one above the new panel and one below, correct? That’s a nice additional feature.
Hi, I noticed that you didn’t mention what you used for the nipple/bushing for ser wire. I have an crawl space and the 4442 ser wire has a pvc nipple and I want to know if that’s acceptable. Thanks
I have been to jobs where the 2-screw NM clamps were overtightened. The first time it took a while to find the problem. The second time I nailed it in minutes. I wasn't the electrician on the job. I was the generator tech trying to solve a problem on a new set. ALWAYS on a Friday afternoon, right?
oversize wire for the clamp, stacked wires or off center and pinched hard? I did that one time as a sparky in the mid 1990's, I got reamed and raked over the coals and forced to spend two days fishing it by myself, the drywall was hung and being finished by time the panel and circuits were all tested. yes I was lazy then and whizzing them all down with a cordless drill, winged wire nuts and drill drivers for them were fairly new then also, I'm sure there was some over-tightened wire nuts in the mix. ahh, 70 hour weeks chock full of overtime and partying youth and right at the end of the housing boom and decline. oddly enough, I have been back to and worked on some of the same homes as a general/sub contractor and troubleshooting simple garage/outdoor receptacles having no power, which was just a tripped GFCI in a half bath, lesser used one or kitchen! back then GFCI's were still very costly, so it was common to feed the outdoor receptacles off the bathrooms/kitchen counters. the people were like "wow, that's been off for many years now", and you found it right away! then I told them it was a common practice around the whole area at the time.
Question. I understand about gradually reenergizing circuits, but what is the difference from an external power failure and the electric company reenergizing from their end? That is beyond your control.
A trick Ive seen to remove knock outs is to drill a self tapping screw into the knockout you want to remove leaving enough space to use diagonal cutters to leverage against the screw head to pull the knock out, out.
Incredible work. I too have an old Sylvania panel from 1984 (when the house was built) and was thinking of purchasing this. All in all (l heard the numbers rattled off near the end but there's more stuff happening here), what would be a reasonable total cost for labor to install it and move the wiring over? My current one is just outside the garage so I'm hoping to install the new one directly opposite of the old one in the garage wall.
So I have one of these Leviton smart breaker panels, love it and I purchased a smart 20 amp pole item and it does not track the power stats, someone said something about the neutrals are not there, my house doesn’t have the best wiring so I’m not sure is there a way to fix this so I can utilize the actual smart panels? Would that be expensive for a professional to come in? I’m very bummed about the wiring of my house not supporting this, any tips would be welcome
Can you guys do another video about Arc Flash and the known danger of pulling a meter from an energized socket. It has happened in the past on under ground services. The conduit can pull on the conductors over time. Later when the person that pulls the meter also pulls the energized lug off the meter socket. The energized lug comes loose from the meter and slaps back into the meter socket and the electrician inhales vaporized metals. The safety standard for working on energized service equipment is to wear the proper PPE based on the ARC Flash Risk. For details reference NFPA 70 ARC Flash ..... Safety First. Nice video. I enjoyed watching.
Q: From my limited electrical code knowledge, I've been industrial maintenance for over 40 years, I thought the panels MUST HAVE 30" clear clearance, minimum 15" from center of panel either side, so that door can be opened fully? This existing panel and new install don't seem to meet that code? I'm working on my accessory metsl building with the sub panel in the corner of the building, which left me with slightly UNDER 15" from center of my sub panel to the corner. Can you clarify that or is it location/jurisdiction/ location dependant? Thanks.
2 questions. Instead of pulling the meter pan, just ring the 3 wires out to ground. The two with infinite resistance are the hot legs, and the one with low resistance to ground is neutral?? Second, no arc fault or ground fault breakers?? I didn't see any test buttons.
Man great job my dad and uncle taught me to change over these eletrical panels hot and the customer would lose power for 15 to 20 minutes in the refrigerators etc I'm glad they retired.
What I was looking for Joel as I will be installing this exact same panelx2. The gutter looks narrow for landing conductors nicely ala lumenati electric style❤. Well I would install except someone has bought them all I wonder who🤣 I rate these better than SPAN mainly because the overprotection GFCI/AFCI breakers are so much better engineered. With the WiFi version you can see and monitor all circuits. You talked about harmonic addition just to make clear if phase conductors of a multi wire are not terminated to different phases in the panel then the current become additive. Imagine two sine current curves in phase basically peaks and troughs line up. The current on the neutral conductor will be above those same phase peaks and below those phase troughs hence potential overheating/fire as the summative amps may exceed ampere rating on the neutral. See NFPA70 200.4(A)-(B). Labeling and grouping then becomes important as well.
over the years, I have seen "many" exactly that way and the neutral wires very cooked. mostly at the far end splice, where two devices/lines combine and at the panel end at the lug end. scary business really! then again, so was the bad neutral splice at service drop to service entrance, I just diagnosed. there was 20 to 50amp's returning to the pole via cable tv coax/grounding block and 14awg wire connected to a ground strap placed on the meter! complete with voltages all over the place from 90 to 140v, good thing they had the local electric utility out once and the local electricians(large company) out FIVE times... even the cable guy was there and replaced the melted coax and ground block once. yet nobody found the problem? 🙄😬
There should be more contractors that take as much pride in their work as you do. Honesty and integrity is non existent these days
So why don’t more home owners do it themselves?
@@cr1m203 because most of the world doesn't have the money to do it mostly and the know how and skills typically come from trade school which again takes time money and commitment and most of all most home owners don't know the difference between quality and hazards due to the previously mentioned.
@@thecanadiantradesman7916 sucks to be those home owners then. As a home owner myself I didn’t need a license to have common sense in hazards. Every field has dangerous hazards. There is no such thing as a fit all solution unless a person has common sense for danger. I do my own electrical work, my own plumbing work and so on. I have went behind “licensed work” and to be honest a license doesn’t mean someone has common sense. Case in point, you need a drivers license to drive an automobile yet people have shown their ability not to be able to drive said vehicle.
You realize that if it's "non-existent" that means no one has it, including the people in this video.
@@cr1m203 a year later and this is still a stupid question lol
I am an IT field engineer for over 22 years. In the early 2000's i got tired of waiting for electricians to run my conduit and wires for Rack related outlets and cables so I shadowed under a journeyman old timer (think he had over 30 years in the field) and he taught me more than I will ever remember. I can easily rewire regular houses, change meter sockets, even disconnect the wires from the poles (our utility carrier doesn't care because it is less for them to do). I say all that because, while I'm decent, I'm certainly no electrical pro, but neither do people doing their own electric on youtube warrant any extra "kudos" from me. HOWEVER, you impressed me with your A) DETAIL, B) KNOWLEDGE, C) INTEGRITY, and D) WORKMANSHIP. If I were to ever give up IT and go full blown electrician I would be honored to be able to work for your company! A+
The way you not only "butter" your customers up, but properly inform them on situations outside of your control is a skill. Your people skills are on point!
If I may make a suggestion - carry a small magnet and put it below the area where you are drilling to catch the pieces as they fall. I like the panel.
I was looking for someone to comment that, or take a small piece of cardboard to place under the hole you're drilling to keep shavings from falling into the panel.
Got yourself a subscriber based on just your integrity for doing what you did.
- Electrical Engineer.
Everyone NEEDS an electrician who is concerned about safety and quality. Love your level of detail... LOVE your positive attitude!
Just a note on the leviton surge protector : you can use it as a normal branch circuit as well. I've seen a lot of installers not utilizing them as branches just leaving them unwired
Thank you for pointing out the lack of ground bars. That’s the first thing we noticed. But so much else about these panels is awesome.
23:41 needing more ground onto it... Leviton MAKES additional ground bars designed to mount into the panel in several places (including your top there...) and the ground bar which is at your bottom, can be moved to your top too!
After installing my first Leviton a couple years ago, this is now my first choice of panel. Ironically, these were readily available during the pandemic when Square D panels were regularly sold out in my area.
I seen more people buy span
I was looking all over for an explanation about how to connect neutral to my Leviton breakers, and there you had it zoomed in and described in the last 3 minutes.
Binge watching this channel now...............Im off for a week so here goes. Nice work
@5:39: A great point about the benefits of plug-on neutrals in boxes increasingly crowded by A/GFCI breakers.
Thank you for your well-explained electrical methods. You are definitely one of my favorites to follow! I give you a thumbs-up on all your videos.
Thanks for posting this. I am installing this exact panel and you gave me great ideas. The access panel is gold! The insulated hex tool is gold too. Thx!
Joel, as always, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us 🤝
Man, I have some electrical knowledge already (not nearly as much as you) but you inspire me to do better with every facet. Perfect mixture of professionalism, delivery, concise and to the point.
I love your 1 day out in the field.
Your experience sharing with others is so valuable.
the leviton panel is fun to have as there is a ton of choices in their products like the breakers. they have a smart breaker (wifi/afci/gfci and combined) i use them for power monitoring and see the trip status :)
Whoooooa, watch your head at 15:46, there's roofing nails to bash your head into! In that tight space it's like you're inside an iron maiden. lol
I wish I had a journeyman like yourself when I was apprenticing. Your channel is full of great knowledge.
So glad I came across your channel. Great work ethic! That Leviton panel looks fantastic, I want one now and those breakers have blown my mind.
I just swapped in a Leviton 42 space main lug in my home. The clear panel door looks awesome! Took me like 8 hours having never done a panel swap before. The breakers are often significantly discounted on Amazon. I just keep a couple extras on hand incase one craps out. Installed a 16 channel Emporia in the panel with plenty of room to spare. No guards for the main lugs. =(
I've noticed and been eyeing them, but never seen one installed anywhere or any durability records. the test of time holds true!
I most definitely have those black main guards that came with my leviton panel.. You can buy spares if youre missing them from levitons store.
do the breakers crap out ever? Old breakers never crapped out.
@@phillysupra Those covers are for main breakers... My panel is setup as a Main Lug.
@@AidanSkoyles Probably not. It is an electro-mechanical device though... doesn't hurt to have a few spares in the panel for failure/future use.
I'm wondering if you heard me yelling at you about the "wrong" terminal neutral wire!😂. Then you went back and corrected it, so you must have heard me! Great videos. I've been doing electrical work for longer than I'd like to say, (retired now) and I seem to learn something from your videos everytime!
Great video - with more and more solar coming to residencies can you focus on the solar related code aspects more. I believe this would greatly help us all 😅
The top and bottom trim panels are a nice way to deal with the problem of fishing wire when replacing a panel. Interesting this was a Sylvania main panel. We built our house and have the same 200 Amp panel.
Definitely still a thumbs up. Also just finished the video. You fixed the neutral issue. I should have waited.
Learned about Levintons panel recently. Have wanted to see one in action since then
why is it better than a traditional panel? Other than being white and looking cool? (serious question)
@@AidanSkoyles Has updated features and they are cheaper than most "good" panels. Plus they do look better. Availability is why I havent installed any yet.
In my area it's common to hook up a temporary panel right off the meter usually #4 aluminum with a little 50 amp temporary panel. It's done right when the power company shows up to pull the meter and we already have it ready to go for them. We don't bother with hard wired appliance (unless it's winter and there's a furnace) but it gives them a few extension cords to live off of in the meantime. One time a fella just plugged his RV into it and hung out in the air conditioning watching TV the whole time 😂🤙
Nice video. I work with lineman and one of them disconnected my power and helped me do my electrical panel. Passed inspection but spent an extra day in the dark as the power company had no record of the disconnect
I upgraded my home's electric alone a few years back to 200 amps new panel, meter base, 4/0 wire in a day. But what a hard day!
I managed to get barely enough done to get the inspector to give it a pass and the power company to reconnect. It was not a final inspection as this was part of a kitchen upgrade. And connect just enough to take a shower.. And that only worked because I had every, and I mean every thing where it needed to be the day before. Tools, lights, ladders, all the materials, all the circuits labeled. And the linemen were willing to stick around a few minutes to allow me the last connections.
Watching this reminds me that a lot of this is just hard work. It really is a hard job, especially on a hot day.
Did I miss something? Did you label the incoming wires before disassembling the old panel, so you would be able to best organize your circuits when you install the new panel? Example: keeping like areas together?
Thats a pretty slick panel! Nice work as always!
"Everyone loves making a material run, you get some snacks, go to home depot, check out the tools" lmfaooo I felt that my man! 🤣
I'm a solar installer I'll be checking out more of your videos to learn.
We have a Makita drywall saw that you can adjust for any drywall size and won't damage any cables. You need to get this tool you won't regret. Nice video by the way.
I just did a siemens panel and I thought I was gonna have to drill the knockouts out I've never encountered something that was so solid.
This is the first video I've watched of yours and it was awesome!!
The extra ground bar that came with the panel could have been placed in the upper area on this panel. That is where I installed it on my new Leviton panel.
Having one of these installed later this month. Glad to find this video!!!!
I switched over to these Leviton panels a few years back, there a bit heavy, but on new construction there great you can leave the breakers out and all the other subcontractors can’t be turning everything on.
Luv the video! I sold Leviton through a hardware store chain I used to work for back in the 80's and really love their new panel! I'd love to upgrade but its a mobile hime and really not neccessary... You did an awesome job! Thank You!
Loved the video and reference to the 120 rule - NEC 705.12(B)(3)(2)
If you want to prevent this heart ache in the future look into Sunnova. Sunnova can help solar installation at every step of the way
Thank you!!!! Really enjoying the learning from your videos!!!!
always outstanding work and I have done many commercial and residential service installs and upgrades... having worked DTE Energy here in Michigan
Yo this vid got rec'd to me and I'd seen one of these lately and wondered how they differed from a traditional panel - cool to see such an in-depth show of how it goes in etc. And you're local to me! Subscribed for sure.
Thank you for sharing this informative video. Panel replacement is high on my project list and I sure do like these affordable Leviton options.
it seems they've read my crazy online ramblings long ago and out came plug on neutral. meanwhile I absolutely hate (TR) tamper resistant devices, it takes to much plug insertion depth before making contact and a slight bump put's them on the edge of disconnection, which means poor contact and overheating. nothing like replacing melted receptacles, and plugs.
Great installation, I installed the same panel in my home and love it, product breaker setup different than normal but I like a challenge :)
@6:34: I started this video thinking, "What's this marketing BS going to be?", but that really is a nice feature. That panel is quite nice and has several features I should've thought of.
Good to see you're still looking after your customer. By the way, I'm pretty sure the Span panel you referenced does NOT adhere to Matter protocols, so I doubt it will have a long service life.
I do agree with the comments below you really take pride on what you do. Thank you very much for sharing all this content to help apprentices like me in this beautiful trade. Be safe , greettings Joel!!!!!!!!!!!
So, I didn't see any labels on any of the cables after ripping out the old panel. So, how do you know which cables go to which breaker?
Just barely caught Cliff's joke at 19:30 "pressure on the face" lmao
This video reminds me of why I don't do electrical work, coming from 3 generations of electricians, lol. I've been on too many jobs like this where panel swaps or service changes turn into a nightmare. I'm glad I know the trade, but I don't want to do it for a living.
Finally someone installed white chocolate and film it I really appreciate
I am contractor living in California my concern is if cal state city or county inspector will allow this product installation
Also it would be great if you can lecture what is the better of this than current manufacturer like siemens or square d
great job appreciate your video
We had a customer many years ago that was complaining about their heater not being able to heat their home when it was rated to heat a home twice as big.
They did not complain at all about the real problem. Ever time the wind blown it would blow right through the walls.
Was just about to comment about the missed neutrals on the double poles when you started talking about it haha
Do you not have "mandatory tests" in the US?
Insulation Resitance, fault loop impedance, earth resistance tests etc...?
Very awesome video, you did a great job very professional 👍
neat and workman like manner is golden rule
I do a few panels a week and pull the meter/disconnect. Provided no meter lock.
Top notch video needs more likes.
29:50 I wonder why they couldn't have just connected neutrals within the breaker so that either or both being connected would work?
As long as your main breaker is below 6’6 you can put the panel as high as you want. Personally I always try to install panels at 6’ to the top.
I believe all overcurrent devices, with only a few exceptions, are required to be below 6'7", but things do vary by AHJ.
Nice work, very clean and excellent wire routing
Much nicer lookin, cleaner, and more modern than standard installs. I'm curious about the cost difference and how well that plastic will hold up over time. Usually heat and age will discolor and embrittle plastics like that. Standard installs should last 70+ years.
Can you go over the surge protection breaker here? Is that surge protecting the whole panel? Or just what’s branched on that circuit?
I need a new panel and I like the functionality of this one! All of my cable is run in conduit, it would seem like a nightmare getting all those pipes re-attached. Also it seems like you were fortunate here that there was plenty of neutral wire for each circuit. I was expecting to see a bunch of joins.
Love your content Joel ... Thx for posting ... Your very customer friendly 😂
What are the cost of the breakers compared to square d panel breakers ?
If you get a chance to do another job with solar power being the source. Could you go into more detail about the use of the bonding screw?
I would just really like to wrap my mind around the why in on main panels, but not on sub panels.
Great video, wow that panel look nice, makes me want to go out and get one.
Very impressed with you , awesome job , and the vacuum ❤
I'm satisfied with my utility as a public service. Getting a pole disconnect and reconnect from the utility can be unreliable schedule wise without sometimes weeks in advance notice. 40 years safe disconnect and reconnect at point of attachment and I am not getting complacent. My utility jurisdiction overhead lateral ends there if accessible.
I was born in Westfield 70 years ago and my uncle lived in Carmel. Small world.
Love the terminal-less breakers with built in surge, the welded ko’s not so much 😂.
You need a bigger hammer
They recommend using those surge breakers because they trip if the surge suppressor fails. So having a commonly used light or outlet to dark triggers the homeowner to call an electrician who can then replace the surge suppressor that isn't working anymore.
For cutting drywall use Dremel MM435 Drywall Jab Saw you will love it.
Dremels tend to cut very quickly and he was trying to avoid damaging wires. I was thinking something like a rotary saw might be appropriate though.
Great video! Would someone explain what he's doing at 25:06? Looks like connecting the two added ground bars with a copper jumper, but would they not already be connected via the panel?
@@ElectricProAcademy Love it, thanks for the reply! And where is the copper strand on the right ground bar headed off to? Looks like the top of the panel somewhere?
@@ElectricProAcademy Ah, never mind. Ground from the incoming grey wire, got it!
Buy extra breakers. Always. Great video!
Nice looking panel and great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
So you installed two access panels, one above the new panel and one below, correct? That’s a nice additional feature.
Hi, I noticed that you didn’t mention what you used for the nipple/bushing for ser wire. I have an crawl space and the 4442 ser wire has a pvc nipple and I want to know if that’s acceptable. Thanks
That Sylvania panel looks like a challenger electric panel that was branded Sylvania
I have been to jobs where the 2-screw NM clamps were overtightened. The first time it took a while to find the problem. The second time I nailed it in minutes. I wasn't the electrician on the job. I was the generator tech trying to solve a problem on a new set. ALWAYS on a Friday afternoon, right?
oversize wire for the clamp, stacked wires or off center and pinched hard?
I did that one time as a sparky in the mid 1990's, I got reamed and raked over the coals and forced to spend two days fishing it by myself, the drywall was hung and being finished by time the panel and circuits were all tested.
yes I was lazy then and whizzing them all down with a cordless drill, winged wire nuts and drill drivers for them were fairly new then also, I'm sure there was some over-tightened wire nuts in the mix. ahh, 70 hour weeks chock full of overtime and partying youth and right at the end of the housing boom and decline.
oddly enough, I have been back to and worked on some of the same homes as a general/sub contractor and troubleshooting simple garage/outdoor receptacles having no power, which was just a tripped GFCI in a half bath, lesser used one or kitchen! back then GFCI's were still very costly, so it was common to feed the outdoor receptacles off the bathrooms/kitchen counters. the people were like "wow, that's been off for many years now", and you found it right away! then I told them it was a common practice around the whole area at the time.
Question. I understand about gradually reenergizing circuits, but what is the difference from an external power failure and the electric company reenergizing from their end? That is beyond your control.
A trick Ive seen to remove knock outs is to drill a self tapping screw into the knockout you want to remove leaving enough space to use diagonal cutters to leverage against the screw head to pull the knock out, out.
Incredible work. I too have an old Sylvania panel from 1984 (when the house was built) and was thinking of purchasing this. All in all (l heard the numbers rattled off near the end but there's more stuff happening here), what would be a reasonable total cost for labor to install it and move the wiring over? My current one is just outside the garage so I'm hoping to install the new one directly opposite of the old one in the garage wall.
I saw that insulated tool on Amazon the other day.
So I have one of these Leviton smart breaker panels, love it and I purchased a smart 20 amp pole item and it does not track the power stats, someone said something about the neutrals are not there, my house doesn’t have the best wiring so I’m not sure is there a way to fix this so I can utilize the actual smart panels? Would that be expensive for a professional to come in? I’m very bummed about the wiring of my house not supporting this, any tips would be welcome
Square D QO is my favorite breakers are about 8.00dollars each for single pole
Why are the neutral wires on the double pole breakers not on the spot labeled neutral?
The hole in your electrical protection gloves says it all.🤣🤣🤣
I would say personally CLEANUP is more like 80% more important to a repeat customer for me maybe even 90%
Can you guys do another video about Arc Flash and the known danger of pulling a meter from an energized socket. It has happened in the past on under ground services. The conduit can pull on the conductors over time. Later when the person that pulls the meter also pulls the energized lug off the meter socket. The energized lug comes loose from the meter and slaps back into the meter socket and the electrician inhales vaporized metals. The safety standard for working on energized service equipment is to wear the proper PPE based on the ARC Flash Risk. For details reference NFPA 70 ARC Flash ..... Safety First. Nice video. I enjoyed watching.
Q: From my limited electrical code knowledge, I've been industrial maintenance for over 40 years, I thought the panels MUST HAVE 30" clear clearance, minimum 15" from center of panel either side, so that door can be opened fully?
This existing panel and new install don't seem to meet that code?
I'm working on my accessory metsl building with the sub panel in the corner of the building, which left me with slightly UNDER 15" from center of my sub panel to the corner.
Can you clarify that or is it location/jurisdiction/ location dependant?
Thanks.
2 questions. Instead of pulling the meter pan, just ring the 3 wires out to ground. The two with infinite resistance are the hot legs, and the one with low resistance to ground is neutral?? Second, no arc fault or ground fault breakers?? I didn't see any test buttons.
Man great job my dad and uncle taught me to change over these eletrical panels hot and the customer would lose power for 15 to 20 minutes in the refrigerators etc I'm glad they retired.
What I was looking for Joel as I will be installing this exact same panelx2. The gutter looks narrow for landing conductors nicely ala lumenati electric style❤. Well I would install except someone has bought them all I wonder who🤣 I rate these better than SPAN mainly because the overprotection GFCI/AFCI breakers are so much better engineered. With the WiFi version you can see and monitor all circuits.
You talked about harmonic addition just to make clear if phase conductors of a multi wire are not terminated to different phases in the panel then the current become additive. Imagine two sine current curves in phase basically peaks and troughs line up. The current on the neutral conductor will be above those same phase peaks and below those phase troughs hence potential overheating/fire as the summative amps may exceed ampere rating on the neutral. See NFPA70 200.4(A)-(B). Labeling and grouping then becomes important as well.
over the years, I have seen "many" exactly that way and the neutral wires very cooked. mostly at the far end splice, where two devices/lines combine and at the panel end at the lug end.
scary business really!
then again, so was the bad neutral splice at service drop to service entrance, I just diagnosed. there was 20 to 50amp's returning to the pole via cable tv coax/grounding block and 14awg wire connected to a ground strap placed on the meter! complete with voltages all over the place from 90 to 140v, good thing they had the local electric utility out once and the local electricians(large company) out FIVE times... even the cable guy was there and replaced the melted coax and ground block once. yet nobody found the problem? 🙄😬
Didn't look like the new NEMA plug for the car charger was on a GFCI? :/
Always get your line side terminations done first ok load side after