When I was doing Residential Service work, I used to carry a drop cloth and a couple bath towels in my van at all times. I would place the towels on kitchen or bath countertops or appliances before placing my tools or materials down. The devil is in the details. To each his own. Great video, Thanks for sharing.
Man where does an electrician exist at your standards in Minnesota? Would do anything to have someone willing to take work here to make an old panel new
@Electric Pro Academy Brother, your words on service personnel not seeing the bigger picture, especially at the auto shop, really hit home. I left the auto service industry after 12 years as a Master ASE tech because my management and advisors could not see big picture and learn how to talk to and truly SEE a customer. I was always recommending things, looking at oil change stickers, looking at safety items, and writing them down. Only to have the advisor or manager not even bother to mention them because they just wanted to move on to the next customer. As you may know, auto techs are flat rate, and if I'm not working on a car, I'm not getting paid. I have always also believed in making a long term customer. I want their business each time, I want them to bring their kids car, I want them to tell family and friends. Bottom line....Do the right thing, and the money that you NEED will come.
On laying things out on customer appliances (or countertops, floors, rugs), I carry a few clean moving blankets and tarps. Not going to use over a fine dining table, but a washer is ok for light staging duty. Want everything in the staging/work area safe from dropped tools, parts, etc.
Oh my!! at the beginning of your video you stood in front of the old panel and all I could do is shake my head and say you are the RIGHT person to do this job ( I would have done this type of work when I was younger ) two thumbs up to Jefferson Electric, keep up the great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - You need to write the 2026 code book at least that way electricians know it isn't a money grab - lol -- also PB blaster works GREAT for those lugs
The only thing I don’t like about the Leviton load center is they don’t have tandem or quad breakers so if you come to one that’s already full you can’t make space
@Electric Pro Academy. Joel, do you resale the Leviton Load Center and accessories? I can’t seem to find on place that has everything that I need. I have one of the crappy Electric Pacific red labeled panels and want it gone.
23:00 I don't know about Code but from observation anywhere I've seen a galvanized box landing against concrete block there's been a moisture problem and anywhere where I've seen it landed on wood or treated wood better I have not seen any issues. As far as Code I believe the requirement is not to be directly on block but I could be wrong. Although this does make me wonder what a galvanized disconnect against concrete block wall for an air conditioner would be as it's technically outside in the weather but I've never seen them not landed directly against whatever Wall material they were on.
Love these Leviton panels... and before all else, it's because the enclosure is just clearly better quality: more rigidity means the deadfront will fit and the door will close even if the box was hung by an absolute monkey. Leviton makes outdoor panels too! Use an impact driver to unland that neutral. Impacts make lighter gentler work removing fasteners like that.
Excellent video once again. You only love the Leviton because it keeps your service Electricians busy with work. They are trying to give FPE a run for their money.
A few questions for you: Regarding your example of the water heater not grounded properly: 1. Are you liable if you do not communicate to owner? 2. If customer doesn’t want you to fix it and inspector sees it or House burns down, then what happens?
About stuff on customers appliances, ask them if you can, or if you didn't cover them with a pad. In the case of that wine, they should have moved all that for you. Personally, I would have not worked on it until the owners cleared the area, just to reduce a liability potential. It's also in the way.
@23:12 Was there really not space to flip the Allen wrench around so you use the long lever to your advantage? I find that hard to believe (esp. since the main breaker is coming out). As others have pointed out, EMT or a pipe as a cheater is much safer/easier.
Two suggestions, carry around clean cardboard sheets (you can find big sheets at hardware stores if you call around, and plastic cardboard sheets too which are more durable but less recyclable) to use for things like setting your equipment and supplies down on things like washers and dryers, and a milk crate with company labeling to safely guard the Electric Meter so no one kicks it, drops something on it or some curious kid does not walk off with it.
In California, any deficiencies discovered must be addressed. That’s why electricians shy away from “old work” out here - sometimes the customer wants the journeyman to place a “blind eye”, but prudence and professionalism dictates that problematic work be repaired.
Working Naval Aviation Avionics (AT rating) we have Aviation Electricians (AE rating) who work on the circuit breaker panels in the aircraft, unless you get the rep of being capable, able and well known for attacking BIG electrical problems like a Hughes Block that holds over 2,000 wires... so, an aircraft circuit breaker panel made and installed in the 1950s has an internal electrical fire, I get called to work the issue. Over 2,000 wires, a bit charred nothing really melted because the main breaker as its one last glorious act.... as it blew apart (thanks lightening strike) cut off all power to that panel. Luckily it was the dedicated EW panel and only serviced the Electronic Warfare stuff so the plane could fly but... every wire is marked every 3 inches with 3/64ths inch type, hard to read, some of the wires had pulled out because all the wires were soldered in place, the aircraft was that old, so I had to freshen the wire ends and then hope there was enough slack to reach the new circuit breakers.... and then.... I had to figure out how to deal with the fact that, museum grade aircraft have no parts on the shelf.......... Watching this, yeah... wish I was there, looks like fun. I did get that aircraft back flying late the next day, but boy howdy was that thing a nightmare. I had to replace the deck connectors to the panel, and that? Had to 'massage' an connector I found to make it workable, then solder A-Z, AA-ZZ, AAA-DDD....and, by that time, I was thinking up a cuss word for each and every pin.
Loved watching you on Studpack!! Any suggestions on easiest way how to figure out what breaker works what? Bought older house (had electrician put new panel and breakers in due to 1970's home-wish I had seen this video before doing that) as electrician didn't re-label anything.
Maybe I can help. I use a circuit breaker finder, generally most areas of the home operate on a single breaker this means you will generally find that say a master bedroom will have its own breaker. What the breaker finder does is allows you to pick an outlet in the room you're working on, plug in one of the finders then go to your panel and use the other half of the finder (Wand) to scan over the breakers and it will turn green when you hit the breaker associated to the outlet you have the other half plugged into. I also use these to find a relabel breakers if I find they are mislabeled or not code compliant.
I had the same problem except I didn't have my panel replaced but I didn't really know what breakers controlled what so I turned off one by one and then wrote what that breaker controlled on a sheet of paper and the number of the breaker and it only took me about 20 minutes.
Wish this guy was in Omaha, ne and could show me about putting a outlet on the outside and tap it to a junction box o inside of my home and put me a better fuse box. And wish stud pack would of built my house.
Next door neighbor just finished remodeling their kitchen. All new appliances. Fancy electronics inside. Got hit with a huge power surge. Fried them all. Thousands in damage. Decided only then that a whole house surge protector would be a good idea. Me? All my appliances are old, mechanical switching, so I was not affected. Better fault tolerance. My computers do have local surge/UPS protection.
I admire Joel but I think his perspective on the Span panel (more like spam panel) is warped. It should be glaringly obvious to anyone with even a peripheral awareness of network security that installing a network-connected and remotely controllable panel opens you to whole new a world of problems. Buy a good, old-fashioned dumb panel. If you want to monitor your electrical usage then get an aftermarket kit, but never put control of your electrical supply on the internet!
Old panels so often look the same. Over stuffed, odd breakers, poor labeling... I am looking forward to replacing mine. I stripped out 15 unneeded circuits and the panel is still full, just not double tapped anymore. It is a pain to work on. Good videos, a little long form to watch often, but great information when I have the time.
18:00 I wouldn't call it the penny in the fuse trick. It's close. If they filled every spot the only thing that would be guilty of is not using type tested breakers to borrow a British term. A lot of this comes down to patent ability and anti-interoperability some thing they can sue over if company B starts making breakers that fit company A's panel. and then of course there's the electrical safety problem but we already have a few of those like federal fire pacific electrical panels or the other one that starts with a Z I can't remember where their own breakers weren't qualifying. Now if that was a tandem breaker they could've been overloading the panel if they had multiples I would assume there is some limitation to tandems otherwise they wouldn't exist. The penny in the fuse was related to physically bypassing the fuse with a penny taking it out of circuit. so not quite the same since they did actually still have a breaker. and if it was exceeding the total load capacity of the panel they should've been tripping the main breaker. They should be unlikely to to exceed total demand continuously. FYI had to deal with a main breaker that continue to nuisance trip and refused to reset a few times. that will be interesting to see how winter goes or if the old breaker was just a little too tired to deal with the new heat pumps, I can't imagine they're drawing more power than the on-demand water heater that is now a redundant cold backup.
Consolidated 4 panels to 1 with 2 of them being in a closet 30 ft away. What do you do when you can't find what a circuit goes to. Some inspector will fail for 1 or 2 breakers not labeled.
Also what do you do when you show up for a panel upgrade and the fabric covered wire is cracking the dry rotted insulation but you have already had the power cut and the panel/meter ripped off the house.
1200 miles hah just did an epic East coast to west coast trip 10000 miles in total I had an inkling to visit you but I did not think the wife would have approved 😂.
@@ElectricProAcademy I was on the road with five kids and the wife in a nice minivan for a month! Amazing trip beautiful country. That being said be Nevada was 115F at night and 135F in Mojave.
Purchased and enjoyed the Wiha torque driver for a little while, but got a little annoyed with the separate setting tool and went back to the trusty Neiko: amzn.to/3PDKpVL
I would become an electrician if I could work for you or someone like you! I do have a question regarding your work on the Stud Pack garage: I am assuming the SER was 4/0 aluminum for 200A service. Why not 2/0 copper? I've done service entrance under the guidance of an electrician and not only is copper a better conductor, but code allowing the 2/0 size for copper means slightly easier pull and less fill (I used conduit through a basement).
@@allotherstaken3 Everything is expensive, boss. There are a number of variables that go into such a decision (electrical engineering), that's why I asked the man himself.
@@brianpiper3188 The aluminum SER is significantly lighter even at a larger gauge than the copper and significantly cheaper. Reason not to use it is corrosion, but if done right it won't corrode. The difference in conductivity is negated by the large gauge in aluminum so there's no performance difference.
I fault the Home Owner! He should have ALL of those Wine Bottles completely out of the way and moved out of the area and any other items also ! Code states that there should be 3 ' of clearance on both sides of a Main panel and 3 ' clearance in front of the panel !
Some parts of the video have really quiet audio, some parts have a normal volume, but other parts are really loud. When listening on speakers, I have to turn my volume way up to hear the quiet and then get deafened when the loud parts come. I would suggest spending some time normalizing the audio in your videos. Other than that, good video 🙂
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, we're not sure what was up with our gear but we noticed the same thing during editing, sorry! Made what tweaks we could but we'll be sure to resolve it in the future
The owner should have removed all those wine bottles, and anything else in that shelving that could be broken. Putting boxes on my washer and dryer wouldn't be a problem for me, but I'd rather not have the equipment itself directly on my appliances. So, of no protected by the cardboard of the boxes, then it should be protected by other cardboard you bring with you, or moving blankets, or something else. I'm not worried about my appliances being scratched up or damaged by cardboard or moving blankets, but they could,be scratched or damaged by electrical or mechanical equipment,
Came over from Stud Pack……. And You Guys Most be Great a Puzzles 🧩 and This Shows WHY ? You’re are Charging $$$ So Much, With All the Codes and That Spaghetti within the Box.
Put a drop cloth on the washer and dryer if you are putting supplies on them. Some people consider the washer and dryer furniture.
When I was doing Residential Service work, I used to carry a drop cloth and a couple bath towels in my van at all times. I would place the towels on kitchen or bath countertops or appliances before placing my tools or materials down. The devil is in the details. To each his own. Great video, Thanks for sharing.
Brave man for tackling that mess but hey money talks!
Man where does an electrician exist at your standards in Minnesota? Would do anything to have someone willing to take work here to make an old panel new
That panel is a mess! Drives me crazy. Above the panel is a mess too!
WOW ! what a mess, good job you did:)
@Electric Pro Academy Brother, your words on service personnel not seeing the bigger picture, especially at the auto shop, really hit home. I left the auto service industry after 12 years as a Master ASE tech because my management and advisors could not see big picture and learn how to talk to and truly SEE a customer. I was always recommending things, looking at oil change stickers, looking at safety items, and writing them down. Only to have the advisor or manager not even bother to mention them because they just wanted to move on to the next customer. As you may know, auto techs are flat rate, and if I'm not working on a car, I'm not getting paid. I have always also believed in making a long term customer. I want their business each time, I want them to bring their kids car, I want them to tell family and friends. Bottom line....Do the right thing, and the money that you NEED will come.
You might have to open up your own shop and show those short-sighted managers how it’s done
Such a good video. I was thinking of adding a sub panel, however after seeing that Leviton I think that is much better.
Here from the stud pack group! Also from Indianapolis! Small world! Great content and energy!
Leviton has two-pole, in panel surge protectors (LDPD2) Tool less, looks like one of the circuit breakers, just pops in. 30-second install.
On laying things out on customer appliances (or countertops, floors, rugs), I carry a few clean moving blankets and tarps. Not going to use over a fine dining table, but a washer is ok for light staging duty. Want everything in the staging/work area safe from dropped tools, parts, etc.
That was my thought, nothing wrong with setting up on appliances or counters as long as you put down some cover/padding first.
Oh my!! at the beginning of your video you stood in front of the old panel and all I could do is shake my head and say you are the RIGHT person to do this job ( I would have done this type of work when I was younger ) two thumbs up to Jefferson Electric, keep up the great work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - You need to write the 2026 code book at least that way electricians know it isn't a money grab - lol -- also PB blaster works GREAT for those lugs
The only thing I don’t like about the Leviton load center is they don’t have tandem or quad breakers so if you come to one that’s already full you can’t make space
Congrats on 60k! Well deserved! Let's get you to 100k!! What a challenge with that snake pit. Great communication. Have an awesome day.
What a rat nest! 😮😮😮😮
And I can't believe how small that service conduit is! Is that legal??
You got a lot of work ahead of you guys.
Will there be a part 2? World love to see the install of that panel!
What a mess, Joel. Great video, Thanks for sharing.
Here from stud pack, you the man Joel! 🤘🏻
I use moving blankets or painters tarps on appliances before I set any item on top of them
I’ve learned so much from you Joel
Thank you for taking the time to put together the content.
Keep kicking ass
Those Leviton Panels are so cool. Our panel is full so maybe one day if we ever add anything to the house we'll probably need an upgrade.
@Electric Pro Academy. Joel, do you resale the Leviton Load Center and accessories? I can’t seem to find on place that has everything that I need. I have one of the crappy Electric Pacific red labeled panels and want it gone.
That’s a nice panel (the new one, that is).
Love your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, expertise, and experience.
23:00 I don't know about Code but from observation anywhere I've seen a galvanized box landing against concrete block there's been a moisture problem and anywhere where I've seen it landed on wood or treated wood better I have not seen any issues. As far as Code I believe the requirement is not to be directly on block but I could be wrong.
Although this does make me wonder what a galvanized disconnect against concrete block wall for an air conditioner would be as it's technically outside in the weather but I've never seen them not landed directly against whatever Wall material they were on.
LOOK'S GREAT SO FAR, U AND UR GUYS ALWAYS DO WELL. I LIKE IT WHEN U SHOW UR MISTAKES. TKS.
Dropping in from the Stud Pack channel. Great content from you and the team.
Excellent job Guy's ... Thx
I keep small diameter pieces of steel pipe with my allens for leverage. alot easier to use than the channel lock method
Love these Leviton panels... and before all else, it's because the enclosure is just clearly better quality: more rigidity means the deadfront will fit and the door will close even if the box was hung by an absolute monkey.
Leviton makes outdoor panels too!
Use an impact driver to unland that neutral. Impacts make lighter gentler work removing fasteners like that.
WD40 is not a penetrating oil, but a water dispersant. Liquid Wrench has been proven to be one of the best penetrating oils. FYI. 😀
Excellent video once again. You only love the Leviton because it keeps your service Electricians busy with work. They are trying to give FPE a run for their money.
A few questions for you:
Regarding your example of the water heater not grounded properly:
1. Are you liable if you do not communicate to owner?
2. If customer doesn’t want you to fix it and inspector sees it or House burns down, then what happens?
My panel is in much better order from the outside but it is full of double-tapped breakers; this is good context for the job.
Thanks stud pack . You guys are fantastic too I wish you all the best
About stuff on customers appliances, ask them if you can, or if you didn't cover them with a pad. In the case of that wine, they should have moved all that for you. Personally, I would have not worked on it until the owners cleared the area, just to reduce a liability potential. It's also in the way.
Saw u at the stud pack channel. You do some pretty clean work. Jordan should get off camera and work. He is still really green at construction
@23:12 Was there really not space to flip the Allen wrench around so you use the long lever to your advantage? I find that hard to believe (esp. since the main breaker is coming out). As others have pointed out, EMT or a pipe as a cheater is much safer/easier.
Two suggestions, carry around clean cardboard sheets (you can find big sheets at hardware stores if you call around, and plastic cardboard sheets too which are more durable but less recyclable) to use for things like setting your equipment and supplies down on things like washers and dryers, and a milk crate with company labeling to safely guard the Electric Meter so no one kicks it, drops something on it or some curious kid does not walk off with it.
And I carry old beach towels for Extra Protection to lay down on appliances then cardboard.
Moving blankets from the Horrible Fright Tools.
Checking in and subscribing from that STUD PACK build. nice video
In California, any deficiencies discovered must be addressed. That’s why electricians shy away from “old work” out here - sometimes the customer wants the journeyman to place a “blind eye”, but prudence and professionalism dictates that problematic work be repaired.
Joel do you guys use the bushing type connectors? They are nice for sure romex connectors are fine but to each there own
Working Naval Aviation Avionics (AT rating) we have Aviation Electricians (AE rating) who work on the circuit breaker panels in the aircraft, unless you get the rep of being capable, able and well known for attacking BIG electrical problems like a Hughes Block that holds over 2,000 wires... so, an aircraft circuit breaker panel made and installed in the 1950s has an internal electrical fire, I get called to work the issue. Over 2,000 wires, a bit charred nothing really melted because the main breaker as its one last glorious act.... as it blew apart (thanks lightening strike) cut off all power to that panel. Luckily it was the dedicated EW panel and only serviced the Electronic Warfare stuff so the plane could fly but... every wire is marked every 3 inches with 3/64ths inch type, hard to read, some of the wires had pulled out because all the wires were soldered in place, the aircraft was that old, so I had to freshen the wire ends and then hope there was enough slack to reach the new circuit breakers.... and then.... I had to figure out how to deal with the fact that, museum grade aircraft have no parts on the shelf.......... Watching this, yeah... wish I was there, looks like fun. I did get that aircraft back flying late the next day, but boy howdy was that thing a nightmare. I had to replace the deck connectors to the panel, and that? Had to 'massage' an connector I found to make it workable, then solder A-Z, AA-ZZ, AAA-DDD....and, by that time, I was thinking up a cuss word for each and every pin.
Loved watching you on Studpack!! Any suggestions on easiest way how to figure out what breaker works what? Bought older house (had electrician put new panel and breakers in due to 1970's home-wish I had seen this video before doing that) as electrician didn't re-label anything.
Best way to do it is to turn ALL breakers off, turn one on at a time, and find out what has power
Maybe I can help. I use a circuit breaker finder, generally most areas of the home operate on a single breaker this means you will generally find that say a master bedroom will have its own breaker. What the breaker finder does is allows you to pick an outlet in the room you're working on, plug in one of the finders then go to your panel and use the other half of the finder (Wand) to scan over the breakers and it will turn green when you hit the breaker associated to the outlet you have the other half plugged into. I also use these to find a relabel breakers if I find they are mislabeled or not code compliant.
I had the same problem except I didn't have my panel replaced but I didn't really know what breakers controlled what so I turned off one by one and then wrote what that breaker controlled on a sheet of paper and the number of the breaker and it only took me about 20 minutes.
Ill stick with my QO panels.
If i put even cardboard boxes of supplies on another person's washer and or dryer i always put a towel down first
Wish this guy was in Omaha, ne and could show me about putting a outlet on the outside and tap it to a junction box o inside of my home and put me a better fuse box. And wish stud pack would of built my house.
I glad you got that job and not me
Nothing but work
Next door neighbor just finished remodeling their kitchen. All new appliances. Fancy electronics inside. Got hit with a huge power surge. Fried them all. Thousands in damage. Decided only then that a whole house surge protector would be a good idea. Me? All my appliances are old, mechanical switching, so I was not affected. Better fault tolerance. My computers do have local surge/UPS protection.
I admire Joel but I think his perspective on the Span panel (more like spam panel) is warped. It should be glaringly obvious to anyone with even a peripheral awareness of network security that installing a network-connected and remotely controllable panel opens you to whole new a world of problems.
Buy a good, old-fashioned dumb panel. If you want to monitor your electrical usage then get an aftermarket kit, but never put control of your electrical supply on the internet!
Old panels so often look the same. Over stuffed, odd breakers, poor labeling... I am looking forward to replacing mine. I stripped out 15 unneeded circuits and the panel is still full, just not double tapped anymore. It is a pain to work on.
Good videos, a little long form to watch often, but great information when I have the time.
Great videos! Have your camera guy fix the focus issues
Is cardboard a ul listed tag out?
But where is part 2?
Tell your customer that their dehumidifier possibly has a safety recall notice on it. It’s a potential fire hazard.. Costco..
What happens if this is discontinued,and parts in 10 years are not found...? This is still a relatively new product line...and pricey
Mover's blankets are much better to protect appliances and surfaces than is cardboard. And they are cheap, reusable.
28:50 Lol ... thanks for the laugh.
Not sure if I miss it but how much roughly would a job like this range from? I’m in NJ. Similar wire mess.
Join our mastermind class and I'll tell you in detail! 🙂 About $4,500
18:00 I wouldn't call it the penny in the fuse trick. It's close. If they filled every spot the only thing that would be guilty of is not using type tested breakers to borrow a British term. A lot of this comes down to patent ability and anti-interoperability some thing they can sue over if company B starts making breakers that fit company A's panel. and then of course there's the electrical safety problem but we already have a few of those like federal fire pacific electrical panels or the other one that starts with a Z I can't remember where their own breakers weren't qualifying.
Now if that was a tandem breaker they could've been overloading the panel if they had multiples I would assume there is some limitation to tandems otherwise they wouldn't exist.
The penny in the fuse was related to physically bypassing the fuse with a penny taking it out of circuit. so not quite the same since they did actually still have a breaker. and if it was exceeding the total load capacity of the panel they should've been tripping the main breaker. They should be unlikely to to exceed total demand continuously.
FYI had to deal with a main breaker that continue to nuisance trip and refused to reset a few times. that will be interesting to see how winter goes or if the old breaker was just a little too tired to deal with the new heat pumps, I can't imagine they're drawing more power than the on-demand water heater that is now a redundant cold backup.
Over 40 years experience that panel a damn disgrace
Consolidated 4 panels to 1 with 2 of them being in a closet 30 ft away. What do you do when you can't find what a circuit goes to. Some inspector will fail for 1 or 2 breakers not labeled.
Also what do you do when you show up for a panel upgrade and the fabric covered wire is cracking the dry rotted insulation but you have already had the power cut and the panel/meter ripped off the house.
1200 miles hah just did an epic East coast to west coast trip 10000 miles in total I had an inkling to visit you but I did not think the wife would have approved 😂.
Nnnoooo, we would have loved to connect!! Next time please 😉
@@ElectricProAcademy I was on the road with five kids and the wife in a nice minivan for a month! Amazing trip beautiful country. That being said be Nevada was 115F at night and 135F in Mojave.
Do you have some whia torque drivers,to meet torque requirements?
Purchased and enjoyed the Wiha torque driver for a little while, but got a little annoyed with the separate setting tool and went back to the trusty Neiko: amzn.to/3PDKpVL
That panel is total mess
Are you getting a Cybertruck??
I would become an electrician if I could work for you or someone like you! I do have a question regarding your work on the Stud Pack garage: I am assuming the SER was 4/0 aluminum for 200A service. Why not 2/0 copper? I've done service entrance under the guidance of an electrician and not only is copper a better conductor, but code allowing the 2/0 size for copper means slightly easier pull and less fill (I used conduit through a basement).
copper is expensive.
@@allotherstaken3 Everything is expensive, boss. There are a number of variables that go into such a decision (electrical engineering), that's why I asked the man himself.
@@brianpiper3188 The aluminum SER is significantly lighter even at a larger gauge than the copper and significantly cheaper. Reason not to use it is corrosion, but if done right it won't corrode. The difference in conductivity is negated by the large gauge in aluminum so there's no performance difference.
What a mess🙈
So loose is a bad connection... too tight is worse... is there a torque speck to achieve!!?
Almost always! When there's not, put a veteran on the end of a screwdriver, not an impact driver.
That thing is a mess!!!
I fault the Home Owner! He should have ALL of those Wine Bottles completely out of the way and moved out of the area and any other items also ! Code states that there should be 3 ' of clearance on both sides of a Main panel and 3 ' clearance in front of the panel !
Some parts of the video have really quiet audio, some parts have a normal volume, but other parts are really loud. When listening on speakers, I have to turn my volume way up to hear the quiet and then get deafened when the loud parts come. I would suggest spending some time normalizing the audio in your videos.
Other than that, good video 🙂
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, we're not sure what was up with our gear but we noticed the same thing during editing, sorry! Made what tweaks we could but we'll be sure to resolve it in the future
Did you taste anything from the hillbilly liquor cabinet?
😂 Hard [liquor] pass. (See what we did there!)
Less span adverts
The owner should have removed all those wine bottles, and anything else in that shelving that could be broken.
Putting boxes on my washer and dryer wouldn't be a problem for me, but I'd rather not have the equipment itself directly on my appliances. So, of no protected by the cardboard of the boxes, then it should be protected by other cardboard you bring with you, or moving blankets, or something else.
I'm not worried about my appliances being scratched up or damaged by cardboard or moving blankets, but they could,be scratched or damaged by electrical or mechanical equipment,
You’ve got too long of an extension that flexes too much… you lose too much energy. Short Allen socket with breaker bar? Think so… 26:28
2-0ught Copper Conductors need to be in 2 '' conduit and or 2 '' conduit bodies ! NOT 1 1/2 '' !!!
Not by code. 3- 2/0’s and a 4awg is complaint in a 1 1/2” pipe.
Where are the levitons actually made? Mexico at least? Not China cus that would stink...
Content is a 10. Photography, lighting, holding focus in the shot is a 2. You should be able to find someone better.
hey #Leviton where are you guys, we need more Leviton stuff here
Came over from Stud Pack…….
And You Guys Most be Great a Puzzles 🧩 and This Shows WHY ? You’re are Charging $$$ So Much, With All the Codes and That Spaghetti within the Box.