Man thank you! I've always just depressed calipers and never had to have some special tool. I was doing the brakes on my wife's vehicle for the first time and about lost my mind trying to push that cylinder in!
Thanks for your video first off. My problem is with my wife’s 2014 Toyota Prius rear brake calliper piston. Upon changing the rotor and pads I was unable to fully retract the screw in piston so as to fit the calliper over the new rotor and pads. I just used the old worn down pads for now so that the car is drivable. I just realized that I did not open the bleeder valve when I was turning in the piston. I will note that the master brake cylinder plastic reservoir has plenty of room for more fluid and the cap on it is a snap on cap that has a top pressure release cap so I don’t believe the issue is built up pressure that is preventing the retraction of the calliper piston. ??? What to do? Do I just purchase a new calliper for the vehicle? Or is there another way to solve this problem?
I'm actually not too familiar with Prius vehicles. I do know that there are some vehicles that require the system to be put into a "service mode" when working on the brake system. Not sure if this is your problem or not and not sure if this is applicable to your vehicle. I'd highly advise you to obtain a repair manual for this vehicle. It's "special". Sorry I could not be of more help to you.
I have the cube. But I can't get mine to go in. In will come out and go in enough but won't go anymore to go in all the way,even with the bleeder open to release pressure
I try twisting the piston back in with the cube. But it’s a bit hard in the beginning and the boot started to twist also. I’m assuming it’s a bad caliper?
I got a loaner caliper kit from O'Reilly's. I found the correct attachment in the kit. But when I use the tool I can turn the nut that compresses the caliper to the point where I'm bending the plate on the tool but the piston does not move. I cannot turn the handle to twist the piston. Is the piston seized? The piston will extend when braking but just will not compress enough to get around the new pads. Any ideas?
It's possible that the piston is stuck. However, sometimes if you push in too hard on the piston that can make it difficult to turn it. I'd try to take some of the pressure off the piston first then try to turn it. Also, you'll need to make sure you are turning the piston in the correct direction.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thanks for the reply. I think backing off the pressure was a good idea - just made it snug instead of turning with a wrench. Then I whacked the end of the tool a few times with a hammer and then turned it - it moved a tiny bit - which it had not done before. So I whacked it a few more times. It started to turn - just barely. I continued and it kept turning but with difficulty. Slowly it compressed and actually got easier the more it went in. So, I'm not sure if I needed to do both - back off the pressure and whack it - but it worked! Thanks for the great video and response.
Question, what would make a groaning noise when coming to a very slow stop with very light pressure on the brake pedal? Happens only once in a great while. New pads and rotors all around and pads are gm oem ceramic. I heard that ceramic pads are known to make this noise... Thanks. I didn't like up the piston divit to the pad, but it SEEMS like noise is coming from the front.. Could that be it?
Sometimes a little grunting noise can be normal especially at the speed your talking about. I'd line those divits up if they haven't corrected already on their own.
I've been using the cube for years. No one ever told me that you have to push while turning it. The pressure I had to exert on the cube to keep it from slipping was obviously pushing the piston in. I thought the piston had super fine threads due to how much spinning it took. Now I know to push harder. Thanks.
Man thank you! I've always just depressed calipers and never had to have some special tool. I was doing the brakes on my wife's vehicle for the first time and about lost my mind trying to push that cylinder in!
Thanks for your video first off.
My problem is with my wife’s 2014 Toyota Prius rear brake calliper piston. Upon changing the rotor and pads I was unable to fully retract the screw in piston so as to fit the calliper over the new rotor and pads. I just used the old worn down pads for now so that the car is drivable.
I just realized that I did not open the bleeder valve when I was turning in the piston. I will note that the master brake cylinder plastic reservoir has plenty of room for more fluid and the cap on it is a snap on cap that has a top pressure release cap so I don’t believe the issue is built up pressure that is preventing the retraction of the calliper piston. ???
What to do? Do I just purchase a new calliper for the vehicle? Or is there another way to solve this problem?
I'm actually not too familiar with Prius vehicles. I do know that there are some vehicles that require the system to be put into a "service mode" when working on the brake system. Not sure if this is your problem or not and not sure if this is applicable to your vehicle. I'd highly advise you to obtain a repair manual for this vehicle. It's "special". Sorry I could not be of more help to you.
How do you know which direction to turn the caliper ( RIGHT & LEFT) side ?
Bought tool. Tool immediately broke
Pair of needle nose pliers worked for me
I have the cube. But I can't get mine to go in. In will come out and go in enough but won't go anymore to go in all the way,even with the bleeder open to release pressure
My piston is turning quite freely with the cube but it wont retract,😮
I try twisting the piston back in with the cube. But it’s a bit hard in the beginning and the boot started to twist also. I’m assuming it’s a bad caliper?
Good info Keith. The little block cube design is alittle clumsy to use but does work. Thanks!
No problem!
I got a loaner caliper kit from O'Reilly's. I found the correct attachment in the kit. But when I use the tool I can turn the nut that compresses the caliper to the point where I'm bending the plate on the tool but the piston does not move. I cannot turn the handle to twist the piston. Is the piston seized? The piston will extend when braking but just will not compress enough to get around the new pads. Any ideas?
It's possible that the piston is stuck. However, sometimes if you push in too hard on the piston that can make it difficult to turn it. I'd try to take some of the pressure off the piston first then try to turn it. Also, you'll need to make sure you are turning the piston in the correct direction.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Thanks for the reply. I think backing off the pressure was a good idea - just made it snug instead of turning with a wrench. Then I whacked the end of the tool a few times with a hammer and then turned it - it moved a tiny bit - which it had not done before. So I whacked it a few more times. It started to turn - just barely. I continued and it kept turning but with difficulty. Slowly it compressed and actually got easier the more it went in. So, I'm not sure if I needed to do both - back off the pressure and whack it - but it worked! Thanks for the great video and response.
Thanks for this!
My pleasure!
Super educating, thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Question, what would make a groaning noise when coming to a very slow stop with very light pressure on the brake pedal? Happens only once in a great while. New pads and rotors all around and pads are gm oem ceramic. I heard that ceramic pads are known to make this noise... Thanks. I didn't like up the piston divit to the pad, but it SEEMS like noise is coming from the front.. Could that be it?
Sometimes a little grunting noise can be normal especially at the speed your talking about. I'd line those divits up if they haven't corrected already on their own.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Yeah. I'm sure they already have. I haven't heard that noise for a couple weeks now so.... Thanks.
I've been using the cube for years. No one ever told me that you have to push while turning it. The pressure I had to exert on the cube to keep it from slipping was obviously pushing the piston in. I thought the piston had super fine threads due to how much spinning it took. Now I know to push harder. Thanks.