Thank you for these settings they have made a difference to my experience with the game . As a new SIM Racer these video's are invaluable and makes the experience less frustrating.
Good video. I'd just like to add for those with Logitech wheels, set minimum force in force feedback to about 11% or 12% in the game options. I found my G920 has a big dead zone unless minimum force set quite high like this. Aris mentioned this in one of his video's, so I tried this and it makes the force feedback a lot better. Aris did say it really only effects Logitech wheels all others should be fine. Also with using Logitech pedals I had to go into Logitech profiler and set brakes up in there, as the game settings didn't give me the setting I wanted. I have it where when it hits the rubber stopper I have full brake pressure when pressing quite hard, and brake fully releases when I get no pressure from the rubber stopper. So as soon as I feel the rubber stopper it starts braking then when It is pressed hard I have full braking. It doesn't give me much pedal distance, but I find using pressure on the rubber stopper easier for me. Hopefully this might help someone using a Logitech wheel and pedals.
I see that in your video you say not to touch the linearity of the steering wheel but I'm convinced that this is a trick that is used by the best like McCormack, you only have to look at the way they drive to understand that they use the linearity of the steering wheel. I even found this trick not long ago and I'm categorical on the rear engine cars, it's very efficient and it makes the car much more stable when entering and exiting the corners.
you are not changing the linearity. it will remain linear, but it will be very sensitive. I do not recommend this, especially for beginners, to make the steering more sensitive than it needs to be. It is very easy to turn too much and hurt the tires and it is very easy to turn too little, resulting in a choppy way of driving for everyone that is not a pro.
In any case on the vehicles with rear engine it works very well even for the beginners the car deviates much more stable that gives less oversteer in entry and exit of corner there is just to test to understand that it really changes the feeling of the car there is not photo me now I drive only like that and I am much more regular and I drive in the crhono of the best so these necessarily effective if not I would not have fun to come to speak about it here
So convinced? I tested it on the Porsche and the Audi and it proved to be very effective. However, I'm not sure that it's useful on motor vehicles before it only acts on the first 30 degrees of rotation, so it's only useful on very incisive cars
Love your vids Nils! So some stuff works differently on consoles (at least still in February 2021) I’m using Xbox One S and TMX+T3PA pedals with rubber mod. I haven’t found a lot of this info online. I’ll put what I figured out here: -On console the Steering Lock needs to be set manually for each car. (I keep a list in my notes on my phone - I also have the ECU mapping and other misc reference stuff there) -And the rubber mod on the budget pedals can be made to actually work with the Brake Gamma setting. The rubber inherently gets harder to crush towards the end of travel or can sometimes make it hard to get to 100% which feels unnatural. Using gamma you can make this more intuitive by making it so a slight movement at the end of stroke adds more input and a large movement at the start adds less input - the settings are really sensitive, but you can get a kind of loadcell feel this way. (For reference mine is set at 2.79 and deadzone 2%.) -Install the rubber stop pretty close to the pedal arm (on my T3PA it’s almost touching) -Raise the gamma until you can get to 100% brake activation comfortably, then lower it incrementally as you release the break until you can choose where the break intensity stops. (Looking at the input bar on the speed/gear hud) once you can put in about 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% at will with your foot, it’s set correctly. -If you can’t get to 100% but DO have good control in the middle of the range, you can add a bit of deadzone. Start at zero and go 1 click at a time. (I use 2%) -Everything effects everything, so if you change the deadzone you might need to adjust the gamma, and if the rubber physically gets moved then the settings will have to be dialled in again as well. I’m now able to trail brake, or at least trail brake better than I was. And until a loadcell becomes an option, it’s awesome that ACC has settings that can work with these rubber mods. Hope this helps!
Thanks for your videos Nik I’m new to it all with good gear 35K and I’ve struggled for months only been on ACC Bathurst GT3 Porsche . You have now given me something to work on with , can’t wait until morning to get into the garage to get on the Sim again to see what I can set up. Happy New year.😊
THANK YOU you help me out a lot on how to set up my dd1 .. everything makes sense . it helped me out immensely . i was wondering what i was doing wrong ..greatly appreciated .
So this is an older video but soft lock will NOT work properly in ACC unless your wheel sensitivity AND ACC sensitivity match the car you're driving. Otherwise you can steer through the max angle IRL while the virtual steering wheel is already on the stops.
Yeah, I've went through all that. Just for me on my monitor G-sync in any scenario creates input lag. I normally had v-sync off too and only the frame cap. But the other day I experimented again and adding v-sync did not change anything but made the image creation smoother. Open to further suggestions, but for me thats what gives me the best result (4ms, 120hz, 35" screen)
by any chance do you know how i can get back my ability to adjust the movement of my car or helmet . my vehicle moves to much . it never use to be like that . i not sure what i change or did . and the slider to change movement in view is no longer highlighted . so i can use it ..
kinda forgot about that. 0 is 100% in ACC for road effects. 100 is 200 :) min force only needed - if anything for weak wheels as they might not display very low forces otherwise
i dont get it the steerlock explanation... if i race with a Porsche for example... i need to put in the steering wheel software 800º and ingame setting 800º? or 900º for both? i mean i need to change this 2 values specific for every car? or just leave it 900º / 900ª ?
you need to be above the range of the car with the biggest essentially and then never touch it again. though if you have some OSW direct drive for which acc doesn't have a profile then it won't put that soft stop at the end of the range and you can turn your wheel more while the ingame wheels already stops. but normally you shouldn't be at the end of the range anyway. for these wheels to have a soft stop at the right place you need to set them to the correct value that the car has. e.g. 720 for the Mercedes in the driver and in the game. if you have tm, lg, fanatec, simucube, and probably a few others, then just go to 900 all around and forget about it
Hey there Nils, great tips. The audio tips were a gamechanger. What do you recommend when setting the high end deadzone with the brake? Is it better to make it easier to get to 100%, risking triggering ABS or locking more often or leaving some headroom but risking not braking at 100% all the time I stomp on the brake? I have a G920 and with the rubber stopper I have issues modulating my braking when at the limit of the rubber piece (a problem I don't have in AC for some reason). Thanks for your videos, they are great help and it's a shame you couldn't finish first in the 12h of Nurburg today.
I know this is old but when i use the brake i sometimes move backwards due to my set up, I binded the brake to the clutch pedal and never looked back XD
i play on ps4 and recently reduced some feedback settings due to the noise coming from g29 and it has been better. I'll follow your expert advice on the audio and visuals as there is still a bit of lagging especially when pit lane opens and happens in the brake zone whilst or during cornering
especially gfx settings are more relevant on PC i guess. Audio and FFB should apply to the console version too. I know the logitech can be noisy indeed. Theres a solution though: noise cancelling headphones ;)
@@SimracingPopometer thanks for all your expert support to the sim community. i honestly wish that developers for sim racing on ps5/xbox hire your services as i would make their work so much more easier in total.
@@SimracingPopometer I'll test it. i used the Lamborghini ST for testing as it reacts a bit more to road effects like the bumps coming out of the 1st chicane at Monza on ps4
Hi Nils. Quick question. Do you only do racing coach or would you be able to help checking my Simucube 2 settings in relation to ACC to make it feel just right. I also have SIMTAG hydraulic pedals and although the brakes are calibrated correctly it seems on the Simucube software in ACC the brake travel seems to be a lot shorter reaching 100% faster. Let me know and I reach out in discord. Thanks
i'd suggest to just ask in the hardware channel, there are a lot of sc2 users. In the end you want as little interference of the wheel software as possible. Just whatever ACC already puts out is just fine. Regards to the brakes probably a video helps to understand the issue (or whatever you find suitable)
Thank for the good advice, but only one thing vsync limits your pc and overwrite your frame limiter and cause the famous input lag, example monitor is a 60hz, means it caps at 60 fps, gsync adapt the frames to your monitor and has less input lag , example monitor 144hz and pc can deliver between 110 a 130 fps your monitor adapt so it fluctuate than between 110hz and 130hz to that and give the same smooth screen but with higher frame rate, some games have a higher frame rate, so what you can do is limit to 141 fps on a 144hz monitor, happy racing ;)
that means: G-sync and v-sync on in nvidia control panel, but v-sync off in the game. v-sync in nvidia control panel helps with frame timings and is more a moderator to the g-sync function. badly designed
@@SimracingPopometer Hi Nils, know that website by heart,please check each faq on that link, one of them states no input lag while using rtss framecap -3 below refresh rate when using gsync or freesync, im using for my self thoose settings for years (freesync) without any issue, once again vsync is capping to monitor frequency, so you hold back performance, regards 😉
in all my testings from different genres off games, never needed to use vsync ingame or nvidia control panel, what i do is work with profiles, global profile 200 fps, and stops the whining coil off the gpu card when games loads and exceed 400 a 500 fps, than add profile and add exe off the game,set limiter to 141, as example mine is a 144hz, and done smooth gaming, and dont interfere with vr headset, has own hardware limit off 90hz
Good info mate.is clipping on the wheel when it jerks on a bend.i got csl elite wheel.never goes red always stays in the grey zone but wheel flicks just a bit.do you know if that is still clipping on the actual wheel?
i read the comments and you mentioned that the ''correct'' fov is mostly for large screens and tripples. Would 34'' ultrawide monitor qualify as large screen or were you thinking of 49'' screens? Also i know aliens can run with whatever car/track/sim/fov/wheel combo and still do amazing times and moves but does ''correct'' fov help the rest of us?
the only question would be if it helps you personally. i like to see left and right of me not just a narrow window ahead. narrower fov means rotation is perceived faster whereas speed is perceived slower. voice versa for larger fov
@@SimracingPopometer i seem to be doing well with a low fov, 30 on a 34'' ultrawide for the last 2 months. I tried with 40 and times are very similar as well as door to door. 50 i dont like. I think i'm one of those that are used to low fov but worry a little that maybe i reduce my ability to see around me more. Anyway thanks for the reply and all the content over the years.
Could you also make a video on the view settings? For example: if you calculated your fov and it is ... then you should put the, distance, pitch and camere placement like ...
I find that with a narrow "correct" fov it's easier to judge the racing line and speed correctly through a corner but it's more difficult to see in tight corners. With a single monitor setup it's better have slightly wider fov just so you can see all apexes. With multiple monitors the only fov should be the calculated fov.
Do you think I would have that much disatvantage if im only useing a 270 degrees wheel (momo)? Im thinking about burchasing ACC, but with this wheel im kinda afraid to do
yeah 70D. haven't looked into it really yet - what did u do? that's only happening when I use it as webcam, cause then I grab the image from that app... there's probably a setting somewhere, but it you've already found that...? :)
@@SimracingPopometer I installed MagicLantern firmware on my 60D. It gives an option to turn off all the text and extra text on the screen. Another option that doesn't have to modify the camera is using Canons EOS Webcam Utility. It can turn any Canon DLSR into a webcam. But it loses some visual quality.
In my case I just need to switch the dial settings out of movie option back and forth before I start the stream and it disappears. Have to do that everything I turn in the camera.
Foget about that Hertz number.... no Sim calculates more than 60/s... every different number is an interpolation! Your CPU would burn down if the Sim actually would want to calculate 300 values per second. That said the interpolated values can help smoothen out signals anyway (there is even a tool there for iracing doing exactly that -> irffb).
I backed that up a bit. iracings physics ticks go up to 720hz, yet the ffb the game puts out is at 60hz unless you use the mentioned irffb. the latter then uses telemetry data to calculate ffb. I personally found irffb better, too, but I never got the setup right to get rid of the added delay. other sims, e.g. live for speed over a decade ago, have a temporary physic tick rate of 2000hz at slow speeds for the suspension (that does not mean the ffb updates are done at the same frequency).
Hi from a big fan. Are you able to tell me how I can change the ACC resolution in game setting to fit my 11250x2150? It doesn’t allow it for some reason? Many thanks
Two years after this video was released, just wanna ask if the settings for wheel rotation is still valid? I have a Fanatec CSL DD wheel, should I set 900 deg in both driver and game still?
I didnt get my hands on the CSL DD yet. Your target is that the wheel in game and the wheel in your hands turn in perfect sync. usually for that, game and driver must be set to the same value and the value must be equal or larger to what the car actually has
yes. the visuals are only a check. what matters is the wheel sensitivity. when you turn the wheel, say 90° and the game does 180°, then it will be very tricky to drive. same goes vice versa of course
@@SimracingPopometer Understood. I actually needed to have listened a bit further into the video. You answered my question there. Thanks for the reply!
Hey Nils! Thanks for the video, great advice. I have a question--my G27 will not match up with the steering of the wheel in game in ACC. In iRacing it seems fine, but ACC, a slight turn on my steering wheel equals a huge turn on ACC. Steering lock is 900 degrees on ACC, and I tried turning the scale setting down to 50%, which helped a slight bit but still doesn't match. If you (or anyone else) has any advice on this is much appreciated. Thanks!!
best to reach out on discord for these kind of things cause it probably needs a few back and forths - and there are a lot of people with the wheel as well!
Hey Nils! On a direct drive wheel, is there any benefit to having the gain set to 80% in the driver and 55% in the game like you have it, versus 100% in the driver and like 30% in the game (what I have). Thanks!
the equivalent would be 40% but no, theres no difference. i just limited it in the driver to not run the risk of getting super high spikes from a game error or so - just a safety measure
@@SimracingPopometer got it, that's what I figured but wanted to make sure. I'm wondering if I should turn up my gain a little, my settings are only for about 5.1nm.. don't know how you do it with 8.8nm, that feels too strong for my weakling hands :D
@@sergiu_bogdan I have CSL Elite with just 6 Nm and even gain on 100 is not strong enough, but it’s clipping. Gain at 60-70 is not clipping but way too light. If I can buy a Fanatec Podium DD2 I would put it on maximum on the wheel and in-game offcourse without the clipping. I’m a 100 KG strong build man so that’s 1 reason but the most important is because of the Better immersion and better feel.
@@FG_SIMRACING I drive with a simucube2 so no clipping at all, but it's not about strength. I was just joking, I did both muay thai and bjj which requires decent grip and arm strength, and I'm 6'1" and about 87 kg haha. It's about what's comfortable for an hour to about 4 hours which is the most I drive in one sitting. 5.1nm seems pretty comfortable to me, I'm wondering if I'd get some extra feedback going higher but then again some esport drivers turn ffb way down or drive on very weak wheels.
The bit about seeing the wheel... unless you play in VR, it doesn't really matter. You should adjust the view so that the virtual wheel is at the same place your real one is. (Well... thats what works for me)
Hi Nils. Great and very informative video as always. You mentioned a table for the Steering Wheel numbers. I drive the McLaren GT4 car. Where can I find this table please on your Discord channel?
they're are not available for the gt4s yet. but most gt4s that have a gt3 counterpart also share the steering angle. this would be in #setup-physics I believe
The Thrustmaster T300 is 1080 degrees, so I just set ACC to 1080 and in thrustmaster control panel to 1080. I assume that’s fine or should I use 900? Again, another awesome video.
@@SimracingPopometer Going for a powerful gaming PC just for ACC. The real race of Lamborghini returns in 2021, I want to make a chance to be able to participate and that’s only on PC. There are no motorsport E-Sports on Playstation 4 so PC is the answer.
theres a smoothing slider from 0-4 and I use 1. So just a tiny bit of smoothing. I also have a slider to boost smaller forces and I use 30% there. everything else is 0. there are not many settings, its fine straight out of the box
"friction" if you have the respective driver. I was in touch with VRS on that matter - I'm not sure this has gone into the latest release anywhere, yet. So it might be that your friction slider is friction and not linearity
i still cant break effectly in this game. It is the only one that i can't ajust the braking to perform as expected. They don't react as in real world. i have the fanatec v3 pedals and i dont now what else to do. i'm giving up with the game.
You didnt talk about FoV adjustments (if you think its necesary) and camera settings, can you make a video or comment on this matter? would you recommend adjusting FoV according to personal setup distance to monitor?
@@SimracingPopometer ich bin jetzt nicht davon ausgegangen das du das T300 hast..ich kann leider nicht aus dem Video entnehmen für welche Art von Wheels deine Settings passen..also nehm ich an speziell nur für das Fanatec?
this will almost inevitably lead to force feedback clipping and detail lost. you must reduce dynamic damping and gain until the FFB bar stops turning red except in a few situations with high sustained torque
A great Video and some of the setting are really helpful. BUT! For console players the wheel settings are not possible to Set it up the way you say. Console players have to Set the steering lock for every Single car and this is like pain in the ass! I hope one Day Kunos will fix that.
i have a lower end wheel (T300) and really think the WheelCheck & LUTGenerator helps me a lot on getting back the lost FFB details in the mid-range signal and removes the deadzone at the beginning also have a spreadsheet for fine tuning of the LUT file if anyone interested: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1IV9nV3oxJ0HnWvZ08i9U3yfbp5niuRQD?usp=sharing
why does my steering wheel feel so loose its actually annoying when I play f1 2020 its rock solid but when I play acc it so loose I cant throw the car into a corner its a joke
Turn off V-sync!!! The worst thing you can do is use V-sync as it adds huge amounts of input delay, just watch Battlenonsenses video to see how bad it is for any kind of gaming. If you need to limit framerate and get consistent frame timing then use your graphics cards built in framerate limiter or use Rivastatistics tuner as both achieve the objective without the horrible input delay.
@@SimracingPopometer I'm using a thrustmaster t300 settings are. Gain 75 Min force 0 Damper 100 Road effects 0 Steer lock 900 Gain 75 Consistent 100 Periodic 100 Spring 0 Damper 0
@@SimracingPopometer 480, or whatever it is, i wasn't sure, well, it doesn't make a difference, just wanted to let everyone know, that it doesn't lock your wheel, maybe like expensive wheels do
wish these bloggers would mention pc or console in there title, saves me listening for 10mins then moving on cos it has no reference to me, but i am sure its great for pc users.
Sorry mate, I indeed forget there's even a console version of the game. I'll call a video out when its PS or XBOX as the game originated from the PC What about the FFB and Audio thing though? That should be the same for PC and console
@@SimracingPopometer soz to sound short, bad enough xbox one X is capable of 4k 60fps but in ACC is capped to 30, but settings are not 100% compatible either, great vid for pc mate as i watched it anyway.
it's unfortunate they had to make that compromise with the game on console. my driving related videos definitely apply to console too, hope you get value there.
'these bloggers' is a multiple world Champion and any serious SIM RACER would know what he has been doing. I am also a console gamer and i have been able to apply some of what he shared. ACC on console has no option to measure inputs so as per advice test on track and you will see a difference. I have been able to reduce FPS drop by changing console settings and by following 100 AI i was able to pick out brake points, improve my trail braking on tracks like Misano and maximise use of valid circuit lines by watching Nils videos. The information on ffb clipping, steering ratios, tyre sounds are relevant for drivers that achieve 83 and above Pace ratings as these will limit potential of preset set ups and misinform custom tuning.
Im using a ts-xw... I originally followed advice from others and now your saying the same about dynamic dampening. I found this is quite wrong. With 100% I would constantly spin and not able to do a consistant lap of Silverstone on average of a 2.04. I then turned the Dd down to 0% and brought my average down to a 1.58 consistently with no spins. I could then control slides and could actually feel what the car is doing. And is still has more than enough Dd even at 0%. Additionally if you have a weaker wheel.. You want to increase the force not reduce it. I'm using 45% ffb and 0% Dd and it is a completely different experience. It feels so much more realistic. With a weaker wheel, you should turn the ffb up as to get to a more realistic nm, you need to use a higher %, not lower. If you have 5nm total power, and you reduce that to 40%, you now only use 2nm of your total 5. If you have a wheel with total 10nm at 40% you have 4nm. So with a weaker wheel, to get 4nm, you need it at 80% to achieve the same force. More, not less.
the Dynamic Damping (lets not use DD as that abbreviation is occupied for direct drive wheels) indeed limits the detail that you can experience on weaker wheels as these smaller forces have to punch through the bigger gyro forces. turning dynamic damping down definitely is the right thing, but on 0 you won't have much standard resistance on the straights for example. Turning the gain up as high as you can without getting clipping is also correct, I hope I didnt say something different to that in the video. It's to find a tradeoff that lets you feel the everything without the wheel becoming too light. the ts-xw should have enough power to handle at least some dynamic damping - I would assume
I think that with the ts range, the advice given about thrustmaster products does not carry over.. Not just in acc, but almost all other sims. As an example, I was watching a video for configuring iracing. In the video the person shows using wheel check, and gets something around 15% for the dead one (I think it was, I can't remember for sure). This was done with a thrustmaster tmx. I went to do this test on mine, I got results consistently of 0%, 0.5% and - 0.5% (is that even possible, negative) So as you can see, it is incredibly different playing field with this range, I'd say that's results to be expected from direct drive wheels, is that right? So in aris video he recommends a deadzone of something like 12% I believe from memory, and 60-80% ffb. He states this as thrustmaster. While this may be true for t500 and below, I think the ts range should be seperate from these recommendations as for me atleast I would load up acc, try to force myself to play. Spin and be so much slower than Ai at 90 and be so incredibly frustrated I would just rage quit because I could not do what I knew I was capable of. So 2 days ago, I though stuff it. I'm going to try a setting that seemed far fetched when all these sim experts are recommending the settings I had plugged in, but I found someone's video where they had their dynamic dampening at 2%. So I tried it. It was literally like going from black to white. And as I said before, even at 0%. There is way more than enough dynamic dampening. 0% seems to not actually be zero, but rather just the lowest setting allowed. In the same sessions of hotlaps, to make sure it was not just experience and improvement overtime. I would do a lap with it at 100%, then at 0%, and then go back again. Lap times were 4-5 seconds slower, and so difficult to keep the car in control. Next lap I would switch it back, and 5 seconds faster
I just tested something. Ferrari, steering lock set to 480 and 0% dampening. Feels incredible. Set steering lock to 1080, has the same steering lock with softlock but lost all the feel. So my conclusion, when using softlock, 100% dampening is probably needed. If manually setting the lock, for some reason the dynamic dampening is at 100%, at 0%
I have a TMX Pro and this made me rethink my FFB settings. First off, TMX is equal to T150 and way weaker than TS-XW. Started testing Dynamic Damping to 0% which took away all vertical forces, but made the lateral/horizontal forces shine through better. After testing on Laguna Seca and Zandvoort i realized i needed some Dynamic Damping, so i came up with these imho good settings(for TMX): FFB Gain 85%(less clipping) - Minimum Force 5% - Dynamic Damping 15% - Road Forces 0%. I chose to keep steering to 900 in both game and TM Control Panel which let it sync correctly.
Thank you for these settings they have made a difference to my experience with the game . As a new SIM Racer these video's are invaluable and makes the experience less frustrating.
Great advice Nils. Especially the audio setting. I never thought of that thx
some things are too easy, yeah :D
Good video. I'd just like to add for those with Logitech wheels, set minimum force in force feedback to about 11% or 12% in the game options. I found my G920 has a big dead zone unless minimum force set quite high like this. Aris mentioned this in one of his video's, so I tried this and it makes the force feedback a lot better. Aris did say it really only effects Logitech wheels all others should be fine.
Also with using Logitech pedals I had to go into Logitech profiler and set brakes up in there, as the game settings didn't give me the setting I wanted. I have it where when it hits the rubber stopper I have full brake pressure when pressing quite hard, and brake fully releases when I get no pressure from the rubber stopper. So as soon as I feel the rubber stopper it starts braking then when It is pressed hard I have full braking. It doesn't give me much pedal distance, but I find using pressure on the rubber stopper easier for me.
Hopefully this might help someone using a Logitech wheel and pedals.
Thanks for the information..I have a G25 and the minimum force of 11% works well.
@@martynhulland6252 G25 and any other G family are stronger than G29. G27 i think is the best.
I see that in your video you say not to touch the linearity of the steering wheel but I'm convinced that this is a trick that is used by the best like McCormack, you only have to look at the way they drive to understand that they use the linearity of the steering wheel. I even found this trick not long ago and I'm categorical on the rear engine cars, it's very efficient and it makes the car much more stable when entering and exiting the corners.
you are not changing the linearity. it will remain linear, but it will be very sensitive. I do not recommend this, especially for beginners, to make the steering more sensitive than it needs to be.
It is very easy to turn too much and hurt the tires and it is very easy to turn too little, resulting in a choppy way of driving for everyone that is not a pro.
In any case on the vehicles with rear engine it works very well even for the beginners the car deviates much more stable that gives less oversteer in entry and exit of corner there is just to test to understand that it really changes the feeling of the car there is not photo me now I drive only like that and I am much more regular and I drive in the crhono of the best so these necessarily effective if not I would not have fun to come to speak about it here
@@hyhhyhyhh7087 ok! so what exactly do you set up?
1.07 linearity and the minimum in report in direction
So convinced? I tested it on the Porsche and the Audi and it proved to be very effective. However, I'm not sure that it's useful on motor vehicles before it only acts on the first 30 degrees of rotation, so it's only useful on very incisive cars
Love your vids Nils!
So some stuff works differently on consoles (at least still in February 2021) I’m using Xbox One S and TMX+T3PA pedals with rubber mod. I haven’t found a lot of this info online. I’ll put what I figured out here:
-On console the Steering Lock needs to be set manually for each car. (I keep a list in my notes on my phone - I also have the ECU mapping and other misc reference stuff there)
-And the rubber mod on the budget pedals can be made to actually work with the Brake Gamma setting. The rubber inherently gets harder to crush towards the end of travel or can sometimes make it hard to get to 100% which feels unnatural. Using gamma you can make this more intuitive by making it so a slight movement at the end of stroke adds more input and a large movement at the start adds less input - the settings are really sensitive, but you can get a kind of loadcell feel this way. (For reference mine is set at 2.79 and deadzone 2%.)
-Install the rubber stop pretty close to the pedal arm (on my T3PA it’s almost touching)
-Raise the gamma until you can get to 100% brake activation comfortably, then lower it incrementally as you release the break until you can choose where the break intensity stops. (Looking at the input bar on the speed/gear hud) once you can put in about 100%, 75%, 50% and 25% at will with your foot, it’s set correctly.
-If you can’t get to 100% but DO have good control in the middle of the range, you can add a bit of deadzone. Start at zero and go 1 click at a time. (I use 2%)
-Everything effects everything, so if you change the deadzone you might need to adjust the gamma, and if the rubber physically gets moved then the settings will have to be dialled in again as well.
I’m now able to trail brake, or at least trail brake better than I was. And until a loadcell becomes an option, it’s awesome that ACC has settings that can work with these rubber mods.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for your videos Nik I’m new to it all with good gear 35K and I’ve struggled for months only been on ACC Bathurst GT3 Porsche . You have now given me something to work on with , can’t wait until morning to get into the garage to get on the Sim again to see what I can set up. Happy New year.😊
here's the bundle i made in case you want to shortcut the process ;) popometer.io/acc/bundles/1
Enjoy and happy new year!
Grande Nils, allways with good info for all the pilots, thank you very much!!!
glad it helps mate
@@SimracingPopometer I am testing with the Aston in Spa, and atm I feel better the tyres, its crucial, ty again bro.
good to hear, was already worth it then
Nice, just yesterday i started to play with audio settings to optimize and now i see your vid. Thx!
Wow ! What a great guy,and a massive help.Thank you so much.
thanks mate!
THANK YOU you help me out a lot on how to set up my dd1 .. everything makes sense . it helped me out immensely . i was wondering what i was doing wrong ..greatly appreciated .
You're very welcome!
Great video. At least there is one guy who explains all this not so unimportant options.
Absolutely excellent video, subbed!
Welcome aboard!
So this is an older video but soft lock will NOT work properly in ACC unless your wheel sensitivity AND ACC sensitivity match the car you're driving. Otherwise you can steer through the max angle IRL while the virtual steering wheel is already on the stops.
^ this
Great video Nils.
But V-sync + frame cap without g-sync, adds more input lag than enabling all 3. Check blurbusters for proper information.
Yeah, I've went through all that. Just for me on my monitor G-sync in any scenario creates input lag. I normally had v-sync off too and only the frame cap. But the other day I experimented again and adding v-sync did not change anything but made the image creation smoother.
Open to further suggestions, but for me thats what gives me the best result (4ms, 120hz, 35" screen)
legit made me go from 2.03s to 2.00s on silverstone thanks to the proper streering lock
sometimes laptime is free ;)
Really good video dude. Thanks for the great info!
Really appreciate these videos and the time you put into them very good
Thanks a lot, you are extremely clear and your advice is very useful.
cheers man, if anything turns out unclear let me know!
by any chance do you know how i can get back my ability to adjust the movement of my car or helmet . my vehicle moves to much . it never use to be like that . i not sure what i change or did . and the slider to change movement in view is no longer highlighted . so i can use it ..
i was praying he would scroll down in the graphic setting :P great vid finally some good info,s :)
Super hilfreich - und das gratis vom Master himself. Awesome!
Reasons / occassions NOT to leave 'road effects' and 'min force' at zero%?
kinda forgot about that. 0 is 100% in ACC for road effects. 100 is 200 :)
min force only needed - if anything for weak wheels as they might not display very low forces otherwise
i dont get it the steerlock explanation... if i race with a Porsche for example... i need to put in the steering wheel software 800º and ingame setting 800º? or 900º for both? i mean i need to change this 2 values specific for every car? or just leave it 900º / 900ª ?
you need to be above the range of the car with the biggest essentially and then never touch it again.
though if you have some OSW direct drive for which acc doesn't have a profile then it won't put that soft stop at the end of the range and you can turn your wheel more while the ingame wheels already stops. but normally you shouldn't be at the end of the range anyway.
for these wheels to have a soft stop at the right place you need to set them to the correct value that the car has. e.g. 720 for the Mercedes in the driver and in the game.
if you have tm, lg, fanatec, simucube, and probably a few others, then just go to 900 all around and forget about it
Hey there Nils, great tips. The audio tips were a gamechanger. What do you recommend when setting the high end deadzone with the brake? Is it better to make it easier to get to 100%, risking triggering ABS or locking more often or leaving some headroom but risking not braking at 100% all the time I stomp on the brake? I have a G920 and with the rubber stopper I have issues modulating my braking when at the limit of the rubber piece (a problem I don't have in AC for some reason). Thanks for your videos, they are great help and it's a shame you couldn't finish first in the 12h of Nurburg today.
I know this is old but when i use the brake i sometimes move backwards due to my set up, I binded the brake to the clutch pedal and never looked back XD
This really helped! Thanks a lot
i play on ps4 and recently reduced some feedback settings due to the noise coming from g29 and it has been better. I'll follow your expert advice on the audio and visuals as there is still a bit of lagging especially when pit lane opens and happens in the brake zone whilst or during cornering
especially gfx settings are more relevant on PC i guess. Audio and FFB should apply to the console version too. I know the logitech can be noisy indeed. Theres a solution though: noise cancelling headphones ;)
@@SimracingPopometer i cancelled that lowering road effects at 25 and gain at 50.
@@SimracingPopometer thanks for all your expert support to the sim community. i honestly wish that developers for sim racing on ps5/xbox hire your services as i would make their work so much more easier in total.
it's counter intuitive. on acc "0" road effects doesn't mean they're off. 0 just means standard. anything above is boost. you could go to 5 as well.
@@SimracingPopometer I'll test it. i used the Lamborghini ST for testing as it reacts a bit more to road effects like the bumps coming out of the 1st chicane at Monza on ps4
Hi Nils. Quick question. Do you only do racing coach or would you be able to help checking my Simucube 2 settings in relation to ACC to make it feel just right. I also have SIMTAG hydraulic pedals and although the brakes are calibrated correctly it seems on the Simucube software in ACC the brake travel seems to be a lot shorter reaching 100% faster. Let me know and I reach out in discord. Thanks
i'd suggest to just ask in the hardware channel, there are a lot of sc2 users. In the end you want as little interference of the wheel software as possible. Just whatever ACC already puts out is just fine. Regards to the brakes probably a video helps to understand the issue (or whatever you find suitable)
Thank for the good advice, but only one thing vsync limits your pc and overwrite your frame limiter and cause the famous input lag, example monitor is a 60hz, means it caps at 60 fps, gsync adapt the frames to your monitor and has less input lag , example monitor 144hz and pc can deliver between 110 a 130 fps your monitor adapt so it fluctuate than between 110hz and 130hz to that and give the same smooth screen but with higher frame rate, some games have a higher frame rate, so what you can do is limit to 141 fps on a 144hz monitor, happy racing ;)
I read this a bit differently: blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/15/
that means: G-sync and v-sync on in nvidia control panel, but v-sync off in the game.
v-sync in nvidia control panel helps with frame timings and is more a moderator to the g-sync function. badly designed
@@SimracingPopometer Hi Nils, know that website by heart,please check each faq on that link, one of them states no input lag while using rtss framecap -3 below refresh rate when using gsync or freesync, im using for my self thoose settings for years (freesync) without any issue, once again vsync is capping to monitor frequency, so you hold back performance, regards 😉
in all my testings from different genres off games, never needed to use vsync ingame or nvidia control panel, what i do is work with profiles, global profile 200 fps, and stops the whining coil off the gpu card when games loads and exceed 400 a 500 fps, than add profile and add exe off the game,set limiter to 141, as example mine is a 144hz, and done
smooth gaming, and dont interfere with vr headset, has own hardware limit off 90hz
Good info mate.is clipping on the wheel when it jerks on a bend.i got csl elite wheel.never goes red always stays in the grey zone but wheel flicks just a bit.do you know if that is still clipping on the actual wheel?
Thanks mate ! Mush appreciated !
Any time!
Hi there if you say you crash the car into a fence or barriers how do you select reverse can you please let me know
oh you just keep shifting down: 3-2-1-N-R
i read the comments and you mentioned that the ''correct'' fov is mostly for large screens and tripples. Would 34'' ultrawide monitor qualify as large screen or were you thinking of 49'' screens? Also i know aliens can run with whatever car/track/sim/fov/wheel combo and still do amazing times and moves but does ''correct'' fov help the rest of us?
the only question would be if it helps you personally. i like to see left and right of me not just a narrow window ahead.
narrower fov means rotation is perceived faster whereas speed is perceived slower. voice versa for larger fov
@@SimracingPopometer i seem to be doing well with a low fov, 30 on a 34'' ultrawide for the last 2 months. I tried with 40 and times are very similar as well as door to door. 50 i dont like. I think i'm one of those that are used to low fov but worry a little that maybe i reduce my ability to see around me more. Anyway thanks for the reply and all the content over the years.
hey hoping someone can help, my car keeps steering on its own when i use a wheel, how do i stop this?
sounds like a calibration issue of the wheel. its not centered
Could you also make a video on the view settings? For example: if you calculated your fov and it is ... then you should put the, distance, pitch and camere placement like ...
no. these calculators are shit imo. drive what u like
@@SimracingPopometer wait really? Appreciate it dude because with those calculators i couldn't see shit on my 24 inch monitor😂
I find that with a narrow "correct" fov it's easier to judge the racing line and speed correctly through a corner but it's more difficult to see in tight corners. With a single monitor setup it's better have slightly wider fov just so you can see all apexes. With multiple monitors the only fov should be the calculated fov.
Do you think I would have that much disatvantage if im only useing a 270 degrees wheel (momo)? Im thinking about burchasing ACC, but with this wheel im kinda afraid to do
that will be overly sensitive. but glad the red momo suvived that long! isnt it also just 240°? :D
Oh ye, you’re are right, even worse then 😅😅
What camera are you using to record. I was actually just able to get rid of the focus thingy on my Canon DLSR.
yeah 70D. haven't looked into it really yet - what did u do?
that's only happening when I use it as webcam, cause then I grab the image from that app... there's probably a setting somewhere, but it you've already found that...? :)
@@SimracingPopometer I installed MagicLantern firmware on my 60D. It gives an option to turn off all the text and extra text on the screen.
Another option that doesn't have to modify the camera is using Canons EOS Webcam Utility. It can turn any Canon DLSR into a webcam. But it loses some visual quality.
cheers I'll have a look
In my case I just need to switch the dial settings out of movie option back and forth before I start the stream and it disappears. Have to do that everything I turn in the camera.
The webcam tool from Canon seems to do the trick! thanks for that
Danke Nils, this is a great video ,
How do you change lap time delta from 0.00 to 0.000?
For example:
-0.04 changes to -0.042
i have no clue honestly. i guess its just a patch
Foget about that Hertz number.... no Sim calculates more than 60/s... every different number is an interpolation! Your CPU would burn down if the Sim actually would want to calculate 300 values per second. That said the interpolated values can help smoothen out signals anyway (there is even a tool there for iracing doing exactly that -> irffb).
I backed that up a bit. iracings physics ticks go up to 720hz, yet the ffb the game puts out is at 60hz unless you use the mentioned irffb. the latter then uses telemetry data to calculate ffb. I personally found irffb better, too, but I never got the setup right to get rid of the added delay.
other sims, e.g. live for speed over a decade ago, have a temporary physic tick rate of 2000hz at slow speeds for the suspension (that does not mean the ffb updates are done at the same frequency).
Hi from a big fan.
Are you able to tell me how I can change the ACC resolution in game setting to fit my 11250x2150? It doesn’t allow it for some reason? Many thanks
that's high :D
I'm afraid i can't help though, sorry
Two years after this video was released, just wanna ask if the settings for wheel rotation is still valid? I have a Fanatec CSL DD wheel, should I set 900 deg in both driver and game still?
I didnt get my hands on the CSL DD yet. Your target is that the wheel in game and the wheel in your hands turn in perfect sync. usually for that, game and driver must be set to the same value and the value must be equal or larger to what the car actually has
@@SimracingPopometer does that matter even if I drive with the cam only showing the dash?
yes. the visuals are only a check. what matters is the wheel sensitivity. when you turn the wheel, say 90° and the game does 180°, then it will be very tricky to drive. same goes vice versa of course
Curious if you ever use anything other than 100 Brake Power in the car setup? I use load cell, FWIW
no
@@SimracingPopometer Thank you.
that's a great video , thank you so much !
Hi Nils, i play on PS4.. does the steering lock trick also work on console.? Thanks for the advice on this great video, ill try the tyre sound first.
I dont have a PS4 to test really, so I sadly cant answer :/
Can you please show your whole graphics settings?
there you go mate:
gyazo.com/2fd7d9d1a2fee80bcfcd117467e23f4a
gyazo.com/1995f09b09123d88d35f1a74f808d552
gyazo.com/8f94d5390551ed5e8a57e44d9596e017
@@SimracingPopometer Thank you so much, that's awesome!
Nils Naujoks Simracing just 1 more thing, how many “Opponents Visibility”? No need for screenshot x)
think its 13 or so
Nils Naujoks Simracing thanks, and sorry for being a pain in the a$$ x)
Great video, lots of good info, Nils. I have a question... so do you turn G-Sync off? And is that why you have V-Sync enabled in game? Thanks!
Wanna stress that these are really just my settings that work here, I suppose other gpu and monitors could work that out differently
@@SimracingPopometer Understood. I actually needed to have listened a bit further into the video. You answered my question there. Thanks for the reply!
no worries, you're welcome
In Nvidia control panel use the ULTRA LOW LATENCY mode to reduce the input lag!
Hey Nils! Thanks for the video, great advice.
I have a question--my G27 will not match up with the steering of the wheel in game in ACC. In iRacing it seems fine, but ACC, a slight turn on my steering wheel equals a huge turn on ACC. Steering lock is 900 degrees on ACC, and I tried turning the scale setting down to 50%, which helped a slight bit but still doesn't match.
If you (or anyone else) has any advice on this is much appreciated. Thanks!!
best to reach out on discord for these kind of things cause it probably needs a few back and forths - and there are a lot of people with the wheel as well!
Hey Nils! On a direct drive wheel, is there any benefit to having the gain set to 80% in the driver and 55% in the game like you have it, versus 100% in the driver and like 30% in the game (what I have). Thanks!
the equivalent would be 40% but no, theres no difference. i just limited it in the driver to not run the risk of getting super high spikes from a game error or so - just a safety measure
@@SimracingPopometer got it, that's what I figured but wanted to make sure. I'm wondering if I should turn up my gain a little, my settings are only for about 5.1nm.. don't know how you do it with 8.8nm, that feels too strong for my weakling hands :D
arthur couldn't handle it too :p
@@sergiu_bogdan I have CSL Elite with just 6 Nm and even gain on 100 is not strong enough, but it’s clipping. Gain at 60-70 is not clipping but way too light. If I can buy a Fanatec Podium DD2 I would put it on maximum on the wheel and in-game offcourse without the clipping. I’m a 100 KG strong build man so that’s 1 reason but the most important is because of the Better immersion and better feel.
@@FG_SIMRACING I drive with a simucube2 so no clipping at all, but it's not about strength. I was just joking, I did both muay thai and bjj which requires decent grip and arm strength, and I'm 6'1" and about 87 kg haha. It's about what's comfortable for an hour to about 4 hours which is the most I drive in one sitting. 5.1nm seems pretty comfortable to me, I'm wondering if I'd get some extra feedback going higher but then again some esport drivers turn ffb way down or drive on very weak wheels.
where do i find the wheel angles in your discord ?
thats the physics insights channel!
The bit about seeing the wheel... unless you play in VR, it doesn't really matter.
You should adjust the view so that the virtual wheel is at the same place your real one is.
(Well... thats what works for me)
Hi Nils. Great and very informative video as always. You mentioned a table for the Steering Wheel numbers. I drive the McLaren GT4 car. Where can I find this table please on your Discord channel?
they're are not available for the gt4s yet. but most gt4s that have a gt3 counterpart also share the steering angle. this would be in #setup-physics I believe
@@SimracingPopometer Hi Nils. Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'll take a look there for the file. Thanks again.
The Thrustmaster T300 is 1080 degrees, so I just set ACC to 1080 and in thrustmaster control panel to 1080. I assume that’s fine or should I use 900? Again, another awesome video.
yeah you are right, 1080 on both should result in the same as having 900 for both
The steering lock and Fanatec wheel of 900 degree doesn’t work on ACC PS4.... On PS4 you need to adjust it to every car apart
thats unfortunate. there is, however, a list of the correct rotations per car on my discord in the setup-physics channel
@@SimracingPopometer Going for a powerful gaming PC just for ACC. The real race of Lamborghini returns in 2021, I want to make a chance to be able to participate and that’s only on PC. There are no motorsport E-Sports on Playstation 4 so PC is the answer.
Hello Nils, what is a Good Setting for Fanatec csl Elite (base and ingame)???
would you mind reaching out to my discord? a lot of people have it there, but i dont personally do. So couldn't really tell
Hey Nils, what are your other configurations in the Vrs Software apart from max force?
theres a smoothing slider from 0-4 and I use 1. So just a tiny bit of smoothing. I also have a slider to boost smaller forces and I use 30% there. everything else is 0. there are not many settings, its fine straight out of the box
Nils Naujoks Simracing thanks 👌🏻 „slider to boost smaller forces“ is which one? 😅
"friction" if you have the respective driver. I was in touch with VRS on that matter - I'm not sure this has gone into the latest release anywhere, yet. So it might be that your friction slider is friction and not linearity
i still cant break effectly in this game. It is the only one that i can't ajust the braking to perform as expected. They don't react as in real world. i have the fanatec v3 pedals and i dont now what else to do. i'm giving up with the game.
braking in ACC is a lot easier than iRacing, I'm not sure what the issue may be.
Great video once again. Just wish someone would do something like this for the console version
give me a console, OSW support for my wheel, HE ultimate support, 60 or 120 fps, better capture methods and I'll do it :D
Nils Naujoks Simracing lol, savage
sometimes... you know :)
You didnt talk about FoV adjustments (if you think its necesary) and camera settings, can you make a video or comment on this matter? would you recommend adjusting FoV according to personal setup distance to monitor?
yeah, whatever you like mate. i know these calculators and i think its only really useful for large screens or triples.
hey Nils, kann ich die settings auf mein T300 anwenden?
ich habe das wheel leider nicht.
@@SimracingPopometer ich bin jetzt nicht davon ausgegangen das du das T300 hast..ich kann leider nicht aus dem Video entnehmen für welche Art von Wheels deine Settings passen..also nehm ich an speziell nur für das Fanatec?
The wheel feels so soft on my g920 do you have any settings for it
gain 100%, min force 0-3%, Damping 100%, road effects 1%
this will almost inevitably lead to force feedback clipping and detail lost. you must reduce dynamic damping and gain until the FFB bar stops turning red except in a few situations with high sustained torque
@@SimracingPopometer for me I never have clipping. These settings are from Tortellinis t300 vid and he said you can also use it for the g920
I use PS4 in ACC and my accelerator is extremely sensitive and there seems to be no way to tune it down.
sorry mate, I'm unaware of playstation related issues
@@SimracingPopometer Thanks, it is very frustrating. I just purchased ACC Ultimate and it seems to work better on my PS4/
A great Video and some of the setting are really helpful. BUT! For console players the wheel settings are not possible to Set it up the way you say. Console players have to Set the steering lock for every Single car and this is like pain in the ass! I hope one Day Kunos will fix that.
Thanks Nils ! :-)
What means: Gearshift debouncing ?
the game wont allow multiple downshifts in this time period. its to prevent accidental button missfirings
@@SimracingPopometer so whats the difference between the lower and higher value? Which should I choose if I want to downshift whenever I want?
@@BroMordekai higher means you have to wait longer between shifts registering
i have a lower end wheel (T300) and really think the WheelCheck & LUTGenerator helps me a lot on getting back the lost FFB details in the mid-range signal and removes the deadzone at the beginning
also have a spreadsheet for fine tuning of the LUT file if anyone interested:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1IV9nV3oxJ0HnWvZ08i9U3yfbp5niuRQD?usp=sharing
Guessing PC only?
Is this for the console too?
i am sadly not aware how the console treats all these settings :/ your target is to have virtual and real wheel turn in sync.
why does my steering wheel feel so loose its actually annoying when I play f1 2020 its rock solid but when I play acc it so loose I cant throw the car into a corner its a joke
i really dont know mate :D
Turn off V-sync!!! The worst thing you can do is use V-sync as it adds huge amounts of input delay, just watch Battlenonsenses video to see how bad it is for any kind of gaming. If you need to limit framerate and get consistent frame timing then use your graphics cards built in framerate limiter or use Rivastatistics tuner as both achieve the objective without the horrible input delay.
all these settings are for pc right? Not console.
yes, sorry!
Does that apply for console?
most of it. im afraid some settings on console just arent there?
@@SimracingPopometer with Damping set to 100, is it best to also damper settings in control box or at zero?
@@SimracingPopometer I'm using a thrustmaster t300 settings are.
Gain 75
Min force 0
Damper 100
Road effects 0
Steer lock 900
Gain 75
Consistent 100
Periodic 100
Spring 0
Damper 0
100% dynamic damping wont work, cause it will cause clipping on weaker wheels (unless you have a DD1 or DD2)
@@SimracingPopometer will lowering the Damper to 50 be ok
that steering lock doesnt work on G29
900 in both game and driver does not? would make me wonder!
@@SimracingPopometer yep 900 in both, but still can turn the wheel with mclaren after 420 degrees, it doesn't lock
@@richnew3715 it's 480 for the McLaren. try to set this for both settings. also the g29 is a bit weak to provide a strong stopper
@@SimracingPopometer 480, or whatever it is, i wasn't sure, well, it doesn't make a difference, just wanted to let everyone know, that it doesn't lock your wheel, maybe like expensive wheels do
yeah it physically cant, if anything theres a soft lock indicating the end of the range, but you can always keep turning
wish these bloggers would mention pc or console in there title, saves me listening for 10mins then moving on cos it has no reference to me, but i am sure its great for pc users.
Sorry mate, I indeed forget there's even a console version of the game. I'll call a video out when its PS or XBOX as the game originated from the PC
What about the FFB and Audio thing though? That should be the same for PC and console
@@SimracingPopometer soz to sound short, bad enough xbox one X is capable of 4k 60fps but in ACC is capped to 30, but settings are not 100% compatible either, great vid for pc mate as i watched it anyway.
it's unfortunate they had to make that compromise with the game on console.
my driving related videos definitely apply to console too, hope you get value there.
'these bloggers' is a multiple world Champion and any serious SIM RACER would know what he has been doing. I am also a console gamer and i have been able to apply some of what he shared. ACC on console has no option to measure inputs so as per advice test on track and you will see a difference. I have been able to reduce FPS drop by changing console settings and by following 100 AI i was able to pick out brake points, improve my trail braking on tracks like Misano and maximise use of valid circuit lines by watching Nils videos. The information on ffb clipping, steering ratios, tyre sounds are relevant for drivers that achieve 83 and above Pace ratings as these will limit potential of preset set ups and misinform custom tuning.
Who cares about console, don't you have your own forums and comment section in your apps you pay a monthly fee for ?
Im using a ts-xw...
I originally followed advice from others and now your saying the same about dynamic dampening. I found this is quite wrong. With 100% I would constantly spin and not able to do a consistant lap of Silverstone on average of a 2.04. I then turned the Dd down to 0% and brought my average down to a 1.58 consistently with no spins. I could then control slides and could actually feel what the car is doing. And is still has more than enough Dd even at 0%.
Additionally if you have a weaker wheel.. You want to increase the force not reduce it. I'm using 45% ffb and 0% Dd and it is a completely different experience. It feels so much more realistic. With a weaker wheel, you should turn the ffb up as to get to a more realistic nm, you need to use a higher %, not lower. If you have 5nm total power, and you reduce that to 40%, you now only use 2nm of your total 5. If you have a wheel with total 10nm at 40% you have 4nm. So with a weaker wheel, to get 4nm, you need it at 80% to achieve the same force. More, not less.
the Dynamic Damping (lets not use DD as that abbreviation is occupied for direct drive wheels) indeed limits the detail that you can experience on weaker wheels as these smaller forces have to punch through the bigger gyro forces. turning dynamic damping down definitely is the right thing, but on 0 you won't have much standard resistance on the straights for example. Turning the gain up as high as you can without getting clipping is also correct, I hope I didnt say something different to that in the video. It's to find a tradeoff that lets you feel the everything without the wheel becoming too light. the ts-xw should have enough power to handle at least some dynamic damping - I would assume
I think that with the ts range, the advice given about thrustmaster products does not carry over.. Not just in acc, but almost all other sims. As an example, I was watching a video for configuring iracing. In the video the person shows using wheel check, and gets something around 15% for the dead one (I think it was, I can't remember for sure). This was done with a thrustmaster tmx. I went to do this test on mine, I got results consistently of 0%, 0.5% and - 0.5% (is that even possible, negative)
So as you can see, it is incredibly different playing field with this range, I'd say that's results to be expected from direct drive wheels, is that right?
So in aris video he recommends a deadzone of something like 12% I believe from memory, and 60-80% ffb. He states this as thrustmaster. While this may be true for t500 and below, I think the ts range should be seperate from these recommendations as for me atleast I would load up acc, try to force myself to play. Spin and be so much slower than Ai at 90 and be so incredibly frustrated I would just rage quit because I could not do what I knew I was capable of.
So 2 days ago, I though stuff it. I'm going to try a setting that seemed far fetched when all these sim experts are recommending the settings I had plugged in, but I found someone's video where they had their dynamic dampening at 2%. So I tried it. It was literally like going from black to white. And as I said before, even at 0%. There is way more than enough dynamic dampening. 0% seems to not actually be zero, but rather just the lowest setting allowed.
In the same sessions of hotlaps, to make sure it was not just experience and improvement overtime. I would do a lap with it at 100%, then at 0%, and then go back again. Lap times were 4-5 seconds slower, and so difficult to keep the car in control. Next lap I would switch it back, and 5 seconds faster
I just tested something.
Ferrari, steering lock set to 480 and 0% dampening. Feels incredible.
Set steering lock to 1080, has the same steering lock with softlock but lost all the feel.
So my conclusion, when using softlock, 100% dampening is probably needed. If manually setting the lock, for some reason the dynamic dampening is at 100%, at 0%
I can't confirm this without using a TM myself. But it all seems a bit suspicious to me. It shouldnt be either great or unusable.
I have a TMX Pro and this made me rethink my FFB settings. First off, TMX is equal to T150 and way weaker than TS-XW. Started testing Dynamic Damping to 0% which took away all vertical forces, but made the lateral/horizontal forces shine through better. After testing on Laguna Seca and Zandvoort i realized i needed some Dynamic Damping, so i came up with these imho good settings(for TMX): FFB Gain 85%(less clipping) - Minimum Force 5% - Dynamic Damping 15% - Road Forces 0%. I chose to keep steering to 900 in both game and TM Control Panel which let it sync correctly.
Listen at playback speed 1.5 to save time.
I mean, saving time is what it's all about. :)
Thrustmaster is 60% = 100% so dont put it to 100
Schade das es nur auf Englisch ist. 🙁
mate.. good info but you waffle.. stat on subject. your vid was definably good but the waffle.
Why do u promote useless and harmful face masks
you mean the G2 provided banner in this 2 year old video? yeah, at the time it hasn't really sunk in that anything but ffp2/3 is useless
@@SimracingPopometer ok