You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful. Check out the BPA chain tool, it's actually really useful. I need to make an update video for it, I use it all the time now! Video Link: ruclips.net/video/7r8kZubZRQM/видео.html
First time adjusting the chain myself. Thanks to your vid I felt comfortable doing it on my own. Thank you so much. Pushed it up to 130 with no wobble. Hopefully it stays that way. Lol. Thnx again bro
Question. I have a 2020 r6 and for some reason it seems like my blocks stick out too far. Like I’m comparing my bolts and how far away they are from the gram compared to yours and it’s a big difference. And it’s always been like this so when it comes to gain adjusting, I feel like I don’t have enough length left to adjust otherwise the bolts are about to fall out.
From what you are explaining it seems like your chain has been stretched to the max, as in beyond stretched! Sounds like you need a new chain bro! Send me a picture on IG if you can and ill try and respond as soon as I can.
@@CHRGITUP that’s the thing. This is literally a brand new chain and new sprocket I just bought. It has less than 800 miles. And I even had it professionally installed at a dealership to see if it would fix the issue. I really don’tcc know what the problem is. They said they installed it to bike specifications.
Ok so what's the difference between a rear wheel stand and it sitting on the ground? Yes the rear wheel is elevated but it has the same compression on the suspension. I know my old kawasaki wants a centetstand to suspend the rear wheel. Does it say center stand for the R6 or just "elevated"
It's to the manufacturers specifications to have the R6 rear wheel elevated when checking the chain slack and making adjustments. With the rear wheel elevated you can move the wheel back and forth on the sliders a lot easier then if the bike had all it's weight on it. Always check your bikes specification though, some bike so ask for the center stand and some don't.
Yoooo I got a question for you. tell me how this sounds. So my chain kept getting real loose. I tightened it 2x over the past 1.5 months. I tightened again yesterday and realized that I haven't been tightening one of the nuts enough which could be why the chain kept getting loose. After I adjusted the chain and tightened the nuts properly, I saw the red dust. Which might indicate that rust was getting rubbed off the chain. I cleaned and lubed the chain and the red dust stopped appearing. Then I heard a rattle which might indicate the tires arent aligned. But they are... The sprocket looks good. Still spikes. I'm going to go for a 15min ride today and if I continue to hear that rattle I'm going to get a new chain. Does that diagnosis sound about right?
You shouldn't be hearing any sort of rattling at all, make sure you tighten those bolts! If your chain is getting super loose really quickly it might be time for a new chain, however, you shouldn't be able to adjust it anymore if the chain is completely done for.
I prefer to always use my life... BUT if I didn't have my lift I would be using the rear wheel jack while draining the oil. Not only will it let the oil drain towards the hole, but you can clean, adjust and lube your chain while the oil is draining out. Just an FYI....for the R6 the bike needs to on a level surface to check the engine oil.
my r6 give off a noticeable " click " feeling from left side of engine box while on/off the throttle with clutch engaged at low speed (5-10km), does your r6 making same feeling? my chain slacks are 38mm @@CHRGITUP
Great video! Very easy to follow! Regarding the locking-nut, how did you know you got it to 12 lbs-ft with that wrench? You used a torque wrench for the rear-axis nut.
Honestly, it all comes down to just the feel. Over the years you gain experience in what sort of pressure is needed to tighten things down. Always remember to not over-tighten things and keep them snug, things don't need to be reamed at all.
How about yall make your own video instead of commenting...i'll wait. Man in the arena always gets the hate meanwhile yall eating cheetos on the couch 😂
@@CHRGITUP I would re check the manual if I were you on the ruler placement. Looks like you were not center of the sprockets either. Also you're not supposed to put excessive force on the chain up and down when measuring, you're probably at 30, not 40 doing it the way you did. Also, did you forget to wedge a rag or screwdriver between the chain and sprocket on the bottom and roll the tire forward to force it in its right place before tightening the axel? That's a must. Those marks are not 100% accurate, just a reference. Got to measure or use a chain alignment tool to be accurate. Great video and camera work though, nice job on that part.
@CHRGITUP I mean he does have a point. Measuring with a floating hand isn't an accurate way to measure so having the ruler against the swing arm does take away a lot of user error. Again it might only affect a mm or two but if you're going for minimum slack that could be the difference between too much tension and the allowable max. As for pushing up or down. The chain in my opinion is gonna have the same slack up or down long as you're measuring the total movement I don't personally care if you push up or start from up and push down. But having the ruler fixed against a solid object would take out some user error.
Not everyone has learned to do thing the same way, I learned this way and this is the way I do it, and it is within the specs of the manual thanks. Just because this isn't the way YOU do it or "learned" it doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't want to do it this way then well don't and move on... Id also like to see where your "manual" says to WEDGE a rag and screwdriver between the chain and sprocket... yeah... thanks. Have a great day.
Thank you . I love the way you explain it and you show the details on how to do the work. Really awesome.
Glad it was helpful! More content like this to come! 😁
This helped a lot thanks for the detailed work. Mines a little too tight by feel but now I will use the ruler method. Nice bike as well.
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful. Check out the BPA chain tool, it's actually really useful. I need to make an update video for it, I use it all the time now!
Video Link: ruclips.net/video/7r8kZubZRQM/видео.html
Once again, the only r6 page you’ll ever need. Thank you so much
Thank you for the kind words! You're very welcome!
by far the BEST video iv seen so far, easy to follow!
I'm glad the step by step process was helpful! Thank you for watching!
First time adjusting the chain myself. Thanks to your vid I felt comfortable doing it on my own. Thank you so much. Pushed it up to 130 with no wobble. Hopefully it stays that way. Lol. Thnx again bro
The more you ride the more the chain will "stretch" thus needing more adjustments, up until that new chain will be needed! 😆 just the way it works.
Another great video from CHRGITUP! 👌👍
Glad you enjoyed!
I needed this thank u so much
Glad I could help! Ride safe!
I needed this video, I just got a R6 yesterday I check the chain it is too loose. Thank you!
Awesome, congrats on your R6! Glad the video was helpful 👍🤙
@@CHRGITUP thanks!!
What is its tightening torque?
Question. I have a 2020 r6 and for some reason it seems like my blocks stick out too far. Like I’m comparing my bolts and how far away they are from the gram compared to yours and it’s a big difference. And it’s always been like this so when it comes to gain adjusting, I feel like I don’t have enough length left to adjust otherwise the bolts are about to fall out.
From what you are explaining it seems like your chain has been stretched to the max, as in beyond stretched! Sounds like you need a new chain bro! Send me a picture on IG if you can and ill try and respond as soon as I can.
@@CHRGITUP that’s the thing. This is literally a brand new chain and new sprocket I just bought. It has less than 800 miles. And I even had it professionally installed at a dealership to see if it would fix the issue. I really don’tcc know what the problem is. They said they installed it to bike specifications.
Ok so what's the difference between a rear wheel stand and it sitting on the ground? Yes the rear wheel is elevated but it has the same compression on the suspension. I know my old kawasaki wants a centetstand to suspend the rear wheel. Does it say center stand for the R6 or just "elevated"
It's to the manufacturers specifications to have the R6 rear wheel elevated when checking the chain slack and making adjustments. With the rear wheel elevated you can move the wheel back and forth on the sliders a lot easier then if the bike had all it's weight on it. Always check your bikes specification though, some bike so ask for the center stand and some don't.
Anyone has the link for that ruler he used please and thank you
It's just a normal ruler boss!
Merangue Stainless Steel Ruler, 12-Inch/30cm (RL2012B) a.co/d/0ssfXd0
Yoooo I got a question for you. tell me how this sounds. So my chain kept getting real loose. I tightened it 2x over the past 1.5 months. I tightened again yesterday and realized that I haven't been tightening one of the nuts enough which could be why the chain kept getting loose. After I adjusted the chain and tightened the nuts properly, I saw the red dust. Which might indicate that rust was getting rubbed off the chain. I cleaned and lubed the chain and the red dust stopped appearing. Then I heard a rattle which might indicate the tires arent aligned. But they are... The sprocket looks good. Still spikes. I'm going to go for a 15min ride today and if I continue to hear that rattle I'm going to get a new chain. Does that diagnosis sound about right?
You shouldn't be hearing any sort of rattling at all, make sure you tighten those bolts! If your chain is getting super loose really quickly it might be time for a new chain, however, you shouldn't be able to adjust it anymore if the chain is completely done for.
you prefer do it with wheel stand or on the ground
I prefer to always use my life... BUT if I didn't have my lift I would be using the rear wheel jack while draining the oil. Not only will it let the oil drain towards the hole, but you can clean, adjust and lube your chain while the oil is draining out. Just an FYI....for the R6 the bike needs to on a level surface to check the engine oil.
my r6 give off a noticeable " click " feeling from left side of engine box while on/off the throttle with clutch engaged at low speed (5-10km), does your r6 making same feeling? my chain slacks are 38mm
@@CHRGITUP
I do not have a "click" sound or feeling at all. Not sure what you might be describing tbh.
What kind of rear wheel stand are you using?
Check out the video where I talk about the stands.
ruclips.net/video/qvwsdjS9j0U/видео.html
Great video! Very easy to follow! Regarding the locking-nut, how did you know you got it to 12 lbs-ft with that wrench? You used a torque wrench for the rear-axis nut.
Honestly, it all comes down to just the feel. Over the years you gain experience in what sort of pressure is needed to tighten things down. Always remember to not over-tighten things and keep them snug, things don't need to be reamed at all.
love u bro. Nice video!
Appreciate it! Hope it helped!
Good info, thanks
Glad it was helpful! 👍✌️
Thanks
You're welcome! Rude safe! 🏍🤙
My bike is supposed to be 2,5 cm, but its 13cm
What bike do you have? 😲 yeah 13cm is insane! Well, depending on what bike you have!
There’s a lot wrong in this video 😢
There's a lot wrong with this comment... 🤦♂️🙄
Yup he measured it wrong
How about yall make your own video instead of commenting...i'll wait.
Man in the arena always gets the hate meanwhile yall eating cheetos on the couch 😂
😄 probably don't even ride tbh...
Anyone who's watched other chain adjustment videos will easily spot the "differences". Video quality and camera work are nice.
That’s not the right spot to measure chain slack, you need to put the ruler against the swing arm and push the chain upwards
Might want to check a service manual once in a while... 🙄 just saying.
@@CHRGITUP 😂😂😂
@@CHRGITUP I would re check the manual if I were you on the ruler placement. Looks like you were not center of the sprockets either. Also you're not supposed to put excessive force on the chain up and down when measuring, you're probably at 30, not 40 doing it the way you did. Also, did you forget to wedge a rag or screwdriver between the chain and sprocket on the bottom and roll the tire forward to force it in its right place before tightening the axel? That's a must.
Those marks are not 100% accurate, just a reference. Got to measure or use a chain alignment tool to be accurate.
Great video and camera work though, nice job on that part.
@CHRGITUP I mean he does have a point. Measuring with a floating hand isn't an accurate way to measure so having the ruler against the swing arm does take away a lot of user error. Again it might only affect a mm or two but if you're going for minimum slack that could be the difference between too much tension and the allowable max. As for pushing up or down. The chain in my opinion is gonna have the same slack up or down long as you're measuring the total movement I don't personally care if you push up or start from up and push down. But having the ruler fixed against a solid object would take out some user error.
Not everyone has learned to do thing the same way, I learned this way and this is the way I do it, and it is within the specs of the manual thanks. Just because this isn't the way YOU do it or "learned" it doesn't mean it's wrong. If you don't want to do it this way then well don't and move on... Id also like to see where your "manual" says to WEDGE a rag and screwdriver between the chain and sprocket... yeah... thanks. Have a great day.
Great video thanks
You're welcome, hope it was helpful! 👍🤙