The best technique I've found so far is to use Bare Metal Foil instead of masking tape to mask off the unpainted areas. It is very thin and can be burnished into the corners very easily. It is also a lot easier to cut around the edges than masking tape. I used it on my Revell 1/32nd Spitfire and it came out really nice. It is jst a little tricky to remove the foil as it tends to rip, but it is not particularly difficult.
I still use the paint and toothpick method on many of my canopies Today they have all these fancy tapes like Tamiya and canopy mask that come with some kits or can be bought . Tamiya also makes masking sheets and small sheets of preformed triangles and circles that help GOR corners. I discovered liquid mask from a company from Poland VMS. It goes on like paint so you can use it on wheels too. VMS also makes a glue for windows.Plus a stripper if you want to redo a model. They are expensive but what materials aren't these days. Prior to all these new " fancy " new tapes and mask, my go to masking for camouflage and some cockpits was " 3M drafting tape ". It is excellent because it is typically used to hold down paper on drawing boards and doesn't leave residue. However, for cockpits I still like the good old tooth pick technique. I'm enjoying your videos because we seem to build very similar without a lot of fuss and fancy materials. Cheers till the next video.
interesting - the triangles may come in handy - but yeah in general i try not spend too much on all the products - probably a heritage from starting to build in the 70s and through the 80s and 90s had no special things. Glad you enjoy the videos
Your paint jobs are excellent
The best technique I've found so far is to use Bare Metal Foil instead of masking tape to mask off the unpainted areas. It is very thin and can be burnished into the corners very easily. It is also a lot easier to cut around the edges than masking tape. I used it on my Revell 1/32nd Spitfire and it came out really nice. It is jst a little tricky to remove the foil as it tends to rip, but it is not particularly difficult.
I also use PVA glue as masking fluid. I found it easier to apply than the latex based stuff with the same results.
I still use the paint and toothpick method on many of my canopies Today they have all these fancy tapes like Tamiya and canopy mask that come with some kits or can be bought . Tamiya also makes masking sheets and small sheets of preformed triangles and circles that help GOR corners. I discovered liquid mask from a company from Poland VMS. It goes on like paint so you can use it on wheels too. VMS also makes a glue for windows.Plus a stripper if you want to redo a model. They are expensive but what materials aren't these days.
Prior to all these new " fancy " new tapes and mask, my go to masking for camouflage and some cockpits was " 3M drafting tape ". It is excellent because it is typically used to hold down paper on drawing boards and doesn't leave residue. However, for cockpits I still like the good old tooth pick technique.
I'm enjoying your videos because we seem to build very similar without a lot of fuss and fancy materials. Cheers till the next video.
interesting - the triangles may come in handy - but yeah in general i try not spend too much on all the products - probably a heritage from starting to build in the 70s and through the 80s and 90s had no special things. Glad you enjoy the videos