Faulty Microwave Interlock Switch Repair
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- In this video, I show you how to replace all of the interlock switches in a microwave. I salvaged my replacement switches from another microwave, but you can also buy yours. Signs of a faulty switch include: microwave working when door is open, microwave not working when door is closed, blown fuse, etc. Hope this helps anybody with a faulty microwave!
Thanks Tanner, you just saved me $150! Just be careful working around the capacitors. As Im sure you know, they can hold a dangerous charge for some time.
I've always found it easy to identify a bad basic switch. Usually you can feel the reduction in operating force that indicates a failed spring or you can hear the parts moving abnormally if there's some other mechanical fault. A damaged or dirty contact will show intermittent on a continuity test and higher than normal resistance.
I watched almost all of your videos and you are the reason why love doing electrical stuff
1:32 - "...unless the door is open" You didn't mean that, did you? The switches aren't usually the problem. In most cases, the flimsy sheet metal that supports the switch assembly gradually bends, and misaligns them with the door interlock actuators. The support bracket could easily be made more substantial so it doesn't bend. However, the flimsiness is by design, and part of the manufacturers' campaign of planned obsolescence.
You quite likely would have found each of the three switches to be perfectly good if you checked them with a test setup including a voltage source, appropriate resistive loads, and a meter. (You need to know how much current each switch controls to provide the correct test voltage and current; an ohm meter can be used, but isn't as good for this purpose.)
Repairing a microwave can be extremely hazardous if the power supply capacitor is charged. Don't count on its "bleeder" resistor to be good, as they can fail, too. You should have emphasized that the microwave should be unplugged before you service it. You'd be surprised how many people forget, or don't have enough common sense to do that.
Lastly, there is a good reason, other than ensuring new sales, that manufacturers don't want customers to fix their microwaves, especially the interlocks: If the interlocks are either purposefully or inadvertently defeated, a user can receive a very serious RF energy burn that may require hospitalization.
Very nicely explained. Thank you.
Excellent video. Thank you. It's very helpful. You're a smart kid!
Good job on video so many have poor lighting
With all due respect how do you know that the old switches were working prior to going to all the trouble of replacing them. You should have tested them one by one to find which is the faulty one. Very easy test and you save the good switches for the next microwave.
that's not so easy with an intermittent issue
He didn't know. He took a chance. He didn't use a tester. Deal with it.
How do you take the cover off to reach the door interlock switch
How do you pop out the switch so easily? I had a heck of a time prying up the two little snap in things. I even broke one.
Fabulous! Thank you
In watching you video, I noticed that when you swapped the middle switch you connected the yellow wire on top and the brown on the bottom. but they were brown on top and yellow on bottom originally.
Will not matter. Its just an on and off switch much like your light switch in your home.
You said NC switch when button is pressed there is no continuity. I replaced my NC micro switch ( middle switch ) and I have continuity when the microwave door is closed, ( same scenario as original switch ). Thought it might be that the door latch does not push the button in far enough but I removed the switch from the harness and physically push the button on the way in and still get continuity. When I remove the wire off the Com on the switch I have NO continuity I cant figure out why .
I have same model with your demo microvave. The problem is my microvave is doesn't have power. Im already change fuse and check the contunity of switch [NC/NO]. When im plugin power and check the supply for every part is have current. But the display not show anything and still not working. Any suggestion which other part need to troubleshoot?
Barry Burke
1 week ago
My GE Profile Microwave worked for about 5-7 seconds then shut off. Further exam revealed burning/sparking in HV Inverter/Transformer. Digital continuity checked OK for all door switches, primary thermostat, shut off fuse, etc. Replaced Transformer with new part. Everything worked fine except 'No Microwave Heating'. Next, replaced Magnetron and Relay Switch on the circuit board. Everything worked fine except 'No Microwave Heating'. Magnetron humming seems normal! Cleaned mica wave board inside of unit, no sparking here. Can anyone advise what the problem may be. Again, everything worked fine including settings for time, power levels, clock, etc. when started up except 'No Microwave Heating'. Last resort before dropping out to the curb for the landfill! Any ideas greatly appreciated! HELP!
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Hey Tanner. A few years ago a local man was electrocuted while working on an unplugged microwave. I suppose he touched a charged capacitor. Is this likely? Were you aware of this and did you discharge any capacities before you started? Just curious.
most new microwave capacitors have a special diode that automatically discharges the capacitors.
"Most" might not cut it! Simple enough to short across the capacitor before you start? Any downside to doing that?
@@rkeithphillips8233 It's actually a resistor (not a diode like the above comment claimed) and I've never heard of a microwave oven capacitor that DIDN'T have one attached. And it's not hard to tell if it has one. It is literally soldered across the terminals of the capacitor. It discharges the capacitor to a safe level in about one minute. So just unplug your microwave and wait one minute before opening it. Then look to see if it does actually have this safety discharge resistor. If it does, measure the voltage with a multimeter to verify that the discharge has been down to a safe level (if it's still 100v or more, manually discharge it by shorting it with a screwdriver, and even that is just playing it safe, as your body can handle DC voltage safely quite a bit above that up to about 200v). What if it still has some charge left like 50v to 100v? Don't worry about it, because that much DC voltage is actually safer than the same AC voltage. I'll explain more about this in the next paragraph. Once you verify the capacitor's voltage is safe or (or short it to remove it completely) then you can perform the maintenance on your microwave oven completely safely.
As I mentioned above, there's a difference between AC and DC electricity when it comes to safety. I saw another RUclips video showing a guy demonstrate this. He showed that 120v AC will shock you, but if you rectify it and charge a capacitor with it (which actually gives you 170v DC) it doesn't shock you at all. The reason is that your skin has a HUGE resistance to the point that it's practically an insulator (I've measured mine with a multimeter and seen it has about 20 to 30MOhms of resistance). However, it's quite thin, so it will appreciatively couple an AC current (even if it has a frequency as low as 60Hz), and the inside of you body is quite conductive, so the total AC impedance of your body (skin + internals) is somewhere somewhere between 1kOhm and 10kOhm. This means that at 120v, your body will conduct between about 12mA and 120mA, which ranges from a quite painful (and possibly, but unlikely, deadly) shock to a shock that is almost certainly fatal. That's why the 120v AC from an outlet can electrocute you. But why I say that if you can verify that the DC voltage on the capacitor is below 100v, you are completely safe.
Bro my microwave wire got messed up now I'm not shore how to reconnect it also it keeps on showing a red light indicator on the display what can I do
I replaced fuse and switches on mine can you help .now it won’t start?
I have a GE profile microwave that doesn't turn on at all. I replaced 1 fuse but still doesn't work, not even the clock. Is it possible that one of the switches are bad?
@4:45 you said that it turns on and works properly. How would you determine if a microwave had a switch issue vs. diode vs. capacitor or fuse issue if it does start up but simply does not heat?
Your awesome bro Thankyou
I guess the last which was normally open as well the same as the top switch
I wished that you would had shown what button inside that allows you to take the connector off easier? It's so hard to take off those connectors!
I don't know what the hell he was talking about, but those are standard spade connectors. Sometimes they're just squeezed tight.
So after taking a closer look, it appears some microwaves indeed use positive locking female spade connectors.
To release these properly, take something small with a fine tip, like an eyeglass screwdriver and while supporting the connector, take the screwdriver, insert it between the m-shaped part and press lightly while pulling. The terminal should release very easily if done properly.
Think pushing a clip out of the way, because that is literally all it is. Do not use my original suggestion. If they are high quality plugs, you'll probably wind up damaging the switch trying to force the plug off.
Whirlpool Jet Chief has this tiny metal button that clips in its switch connector . Cookworks microwave doesn’t . Connectors get greasy and suitable sized flat screwdriver end ease it
Bro My hair microwave oven get fused when starting . what the reason ?
I've been thinking of using a 12v rail from an old pc power supply for my cb radio, any thoughts, maybe a cool video idea?
A little better camera angle showing how to remove the cable would have made this video awesome.
Do that with your video.
Tanner I got a question please answer
+cool boy dude What's your question?
Yea how would you get rid of that extra power? Are stored power.
charles howard you discharge the capacitor by crossing terminals with needle nose but be careful not to touch any metal the shock can kill u
I know this is a older video but maybe your still around to answer questions, are someone else maybe, anyways my question about the three interlock switches is if there all the same type of switches if you bought one? like to say that any switch bought like one of them will work in any slot if it goes bad? Thanks
No the top switch is primary and is normally closed as is your secondary switch that is on the bottom now your moniter switch is normally closed that one is in the middle
@@jenniferraber-greene9495 I think you have a typo...the primary (top) switch and the secondary (bottom) switch are "normally open". You said they were "normally closed", which is wrong! The monitor (middle switch) is "normally closed". Bottom line look at the diagram on the switch casing and note if one of the terminals is in the position or is lined up with the NO or NC marking.
bench power supply maybe or make a Knight Rider circuit with a 555 timer
Charles you put a medal pice and put it on the + -
My microwave stopped heating what do u this it is
It's your probably your magnetron but would get your capacitor and diode checked to but the magnetron is what sends microwaves with is what heats if so better of getting a new microwave repair is costly.
or make a medal detector or a radio I don't know if you want to do the ideas it's up to you what do you think of the ideas
yo Tanner may I ask when your doing a live stream I liked the one yesterday
+cool boy dude I'm not sure, maybe next Monday? Any suggestions for a topic?
Tanner do you have a po box
ok
what did you think of the ideas
+cool boy dude Good
Why aren't you testing them?
Yep, I tested mine ?? You can even easily disassemble these micro-switches, to see what is wrong with them. Meanwhile, by drinking beer, my oven has been repaired twice, for free. Yep, a few beers did the trick. Off I went walking to the beer store with my foldable cart on a rainy day. On the way there, I spotted a microwave oven that was placed at the curb for disposal purposes. So on the way back home from the beer store, I dropped this oven into my cart and took it home with me. After drying it off, I took it apart and it turned out to have the same micro-switches, the same AC fuse, and the same thermal fuses, and they were all working perfectly. So, after replacing one AC fuse, one thermal fuse, and one dead micro-switch, my microwave oven worked perfectly again, and still kept going on strong many years later. Today, I had to replace another one of the door micro-switches, but I still had 3 micro-switches to spare from the trashed oven. Also, the curb trashed microwave oven turntable, now functions as a lazy susan for one of my tall plants that needs to be rotated now and then.
Because he didn't. Deal with it.
I'm the first
+cool boy dude You are! First view and like too. Thanks! That video just finished processing 45 seconds before your comment too.
Set higher goals in your life.
too much effort
For those that are too lazy and/or simple, yes.
How do you pop out the switch so easily? I had a heck of a time prying up the two little snap in things. I even broke one.