Not a beginner here. I've install 100's of 1000's sqft of every type of metal. Use your brain. If it covers more than 1", cutting with a grinder is fine. Everything else, cut with shears. Yes, there will be melt-back. Plan for it. If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out. There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it. The only real problem is crappy metal companies. They'll sometimes get a bad roll and try to blame finish peel on the grind cut on the end of a 32ft sheet. Sorry, but that won't cause finish peel all the way down the sheet. Rare though. In 35 years I've never had any sheet peels, rust wash, etc. Had some trim peel, but it was shear cut, so, don't know how they weaseled out of that.
@@iloveitUbet "If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out." " There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it." Notice anything?
i would use shears when possible but all coated steel must be recoated over any cuts drill holes scratches. when i worked in steel it was marine conditions everything is coated after a cut. good video. tell them how a blunt drill also gets steel cherry red haha.
I have been doing comnercial buildings for 30 years and my crews use only use shears, nibblers or snips. There has been a few times the nibbler was broken so we cut with the grider close to the line then trim it back with snips. We never use a grinder near roof panel because those metal particle float every where then start pit rusting.
We had a plumbing standard here in Australia which specifically stated only use snips for cutting sheet roofing, the reasons being as you stated, the heat from cutting with a grinder destroys the applied protective coating. Think about this. As you cut with snips, the zinc coating is dragged across the exposed edge providing some level of protection to the cut edge. All this goes by the wayside in this time of doing everything as quickly as possible rather than doing things properly. I was a building contractor for nigh on 50 years and ended up doing all my own roofing ,and only speak to what I have observed.
Great points dude people overuse grinders and cut away blades when they should be using tin snips. If you’re cutting some interior studs that won’t get wet and you want to cut a whole stack with an abrasion chop saw fine, but you should be using tin snips. The helper I was working with the other day was insisting on cutting the studs with a grinder I’m like “1. It’s way louder, 2. It’s not quicker if you’re cutting them one at a time any way and 3. It fucks them up”
Thanks👍. When I put tin up if I'm going for looks I put a straight ( yeah right😆) 2x4 to set the tin on and remove it when done and put foam spray up in the ribs. No tin setting in water.
Good tip, thank. In my case, I need to put up a shed roof of the galvanized corrugated metal. How would I cut it without "burning" it, so it doesn't rust?
cutting with a metal cutting saw is abit better because the rpm of the blade is slower and remove chips of steel rather than grinding into oblivion..you can rent them at home depot...next option is a shear attachment for your drill here's the link geni.us/dewaltshearattachment
A cut is a cut , the difference is that abrasive cutting is the larger surface area of the cut so a larger area to start rusting, the real problem of abrasive cutting is the millions of bits of metal stick to the surface treatment and then rust.
It's not how you cut it's a coated steel that has no coating you should probably be brushing on a coating or at least putting that said on the top so it is never sitting in water
If your boss makes you cut with a grinder then always plan to put the cut end UP ! It's not a perfect solution but the rusting will be slower and almost not at all . the best is with shears electric or manual !
If you want either method to last you need to recoat the cut edge. Ultra thin cutting discs cut very cleanly. Have you ever tried to cut a corrugated roofing iron sheet with tin snips? I have. It sux balls. Grinder for big cuts every time. Only people in the industry would have power shears. Or maybe hire.
Used to install 8in steel siding on homes thick stuff always use snips no saw it would void the warranty unlike Aluminum siding in my 70s now United States Steel made the product very heavy duty
If you're cutting all of your wall metal you must not have measured and ordered the correct size. Unless the building is a janky design with level changes, the wall metal "should" be the same length and the only cutting would be to adjust the widths at corners and around wall openings, windows, doors.
You always have to cut at some point let be real. Yea I agree about getting the manufacturer to do as much of the cutting as possible. But they can’t make them all
Go ahead and cut them with a grinder or a quick cut, but don’t submerge the burnt edge in water by installing it bottom down or orders them to the proper length from the manufacturer, can you get a factory cut both and you don’t have to cut anything
Its Quite Amazing ! How many You Tube Videos ! Of Them ! Using Angle Grinders ! INCORRECTLY ! TOO !! ID LIKE to see them ! Using HAND HACKSAWS ! CUTTING QUITE HAPPILY AWAY!
Seems that corrugated metal is very hard to cut with shears due to the profile ? Too bad you didn’t show us how to cut the corrugated with shears. Always put the cut edge up rather than down !
Question: could you not prime and paint the cut edge before installing. I bet the 95 percent of rusted walls that you mentioned that the installers installed, none of the installers bothered to prime and paint the freshly cut edge. Of course unprotected steel will rust regardless on whether it was cut with shears or a grinder!!! Daaaaaa!!!!
You are pissing into the wind. Most people on RUclips only own an angle grinder and a hammer and seem to think they are geniuses who can build anything. They measure with a micrometer, mark with a sharpie, and cut with an angle grinder. I learned years ago not to watch RUclips videos concerning my trades. Wood workers on here are the worst. They make a simple fixture for a problem created by their lack of appropriate equipment and make you think that Einstein would be impressed. I fully expected this video to be one those but was pleasantly surprised to find someone with practical knowledge. Most of the experts here will tell you how to use an angle grinder to replace your 10" bench grinder, 150 ton iron worker, air powered nibbler, pipe notcher, notcher, chassis punch set, bolt cutters, die grinder, orbital sander, and more. You don't need any of that stuff if you have an angle grinder so, save the cash. Millions of RUclipsrs agree.
@asm101 very far from a beginner, you gonna cut "across"metal sheets with snips?the drip edge at the bottom should never"hold"water,you don't cut the exposed edge of metal sheets,what about nibblers?bet you've never heard of them.i just know bullshit when I see it
If your looking for a nice power shear drill attachment this is one that I use myself geni.us/dewaltshearattachment
@asm101 drill attachments are junk and anyone shows up to do my job without actual shears ain't doing it j.s.
Not a beginner here. I've install 100's of 1000's sqft of every type of metal. Use your brain. If it covers more than 1", cutting with a grinder is fine. Everything else, cut with shears. Yes, there will be melt-back. Plan for it. If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out. There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it. The only real problem is crappy metal companies. They'll sometimes get a bad roll and try to blame finish peel on the grind cut on the end of a 32ft sheet. Sorry, but that won't cause finish peel all the way down the sheet. Rare though. In 35 years I've never had any sheet peels, rust wash, etc. Had some trim peel, but it was shear cut, so, don't know how they weaseled out of that.
Thanks for taking the time to write your detailed response.
@@asm101you mean extremely experienced and knowledgeable……
@@iloveitUbet "If you make a mistake and cut the wrong end, swap it out."
" There is also edge corrosion on shear cuts, but it usually takes 10 times as long to see it."
Notice anything?
i would use shears when possible but all coated steel must be recoated over any cuts drill holes scratches. when i worked in steel it was marine conditions everything is coated after a cut. good video. tell them how a blunt drill also gets steel cherry red haha.
It’s nice to learn something new everyday. Thanks!
Cheers dude, how tf RUclips knew I was about to cut tin is kinda trippy.. I was going to research the best approach today and this pops up! Crazy 😂
That is trippy happens to me too sometimes
They're listening...
@@grellis6483 apparently they’re making mind reading tech.. it was only a thought after all!
I have been doing comnercial buildings for 30 years and my crews use only use shears, nibblers or snips. There has been a few times the nibbler was broken so we cut with the grider close to the line then trim it back with snips. We never use a grinder near roof panel because those metal particle float every where then start pit rusting.
We had a plumbing standard here in Australia which specifically stated only use snips for cutting sheet roofing, the reasons being as you stated, the heat from cutting with a grinder destroys the applied protective coating. Think about this. As you cut with snips, the zinc coating is dragged across the exposed edge providing some level of protection to the cut edge. All this goes by the wayside in this time of doing everything as quickly as possible rather than doing things properly. I was a building contractor for nigh on 50 years and ended up doing all my own roofing ,and only speak to what I have observed.
Great information and explanation.. thanks
Great points dude people overuse grinders and cut away blades when they should be using tin snips. If you’re cutting some interior studs that won’t get wet and you want to cut a whole stack with an abrasion chop saw fine, but you should be using tin snips. The helper I was working with the other day was insisting on cutting the studs with a grinder I’m like “1. It’s way louder, 2. It’s not quicker if you’re cutting them one at a time any way and 3. It fucks them up”
Nice to hear you take pride in your work. It’s awfully tempting to use grinder. Cold cut chop saws are a better option no?
Great information talk about how not yo cut steel sheeting sitting in a car???
Thanks👍. When I put tin up if I'm going for looks I put a straight ( yeah right😆) 2x4 to set the tin on and remove it when done and put foam spray up in the ribs. No tin setting in water.
Good tip, thank. In my case, I need to put up a shed roof of the galvanized corrugated metal. How would I cut it without "burning" it, so it doesn't rust?
cutting with a metal cutting saw is abit better because the rpm of the blade is slower and remove chips of steel rather than grinding into oblivion..you can rent them at home depot...next option is a shear attachment for your drill here's the link geni.us/dewaltshearattachment
I'm liking the cutting dies on my bead roller.
Smh
A cut is a cut , the difference is that abrasive cutting is the larger surface area of the cut so a larger area to start rusting, the real problem of abrasive cutting is the millions of bits of metal stick to the surface treatment and then rust.
For non ferrous metals sure but not ferrous metals
For non ferrous metals sure but not ferrous metals
It's not how you cut it's a coated steel that has no coating you should probably be brushing on a coating or at least putting that said on the top so it is never sitting in water
Yes that’s what we would do is put the burnt edge facing up.
Mild steel, that is steel with less than 0.2% carbon, doesn't become brittle with heating and quenching.
Heating no quenching
@@asm101 It still won't harden as the steel is low carbon mild steel.
If your boss makes you cut with a grinder then always plan to put the cut end UP ! It's not a perfect solution but the rusting will be slower and almost not at all . the best is with shears electric or manual !
If you want either method to last you need to recoat the cut edge. Ultra thin cutting discs cut very cleanly. Have you ever tried to cut a corrugated roofing iron sheet with tin snips? I have. It sux balls. Grinder for big cuts every time. Only people in the industry would have power shears. Or maybe hire.
You can avoid most of it by measuring and sending lengths to the manufacturer to get them to cut it so you don’t have to
if its thin, snip and rip is better and quicker, if you dont mind 2--3 in variation
Well said👍
Exelent info!
Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful
Agreed 100%
Used to install 8in steel siding on homes thick stuff always use snips no saw it would void the warranty unlike Aluminum siding in my 70s now United States Steel made the product very heavy duty
Thanks for watching
We don't cut/or use shears/unless you have to takes to long/we tear it/ it's easy accurate/fast
Also the dust from grinder-cutting is bad to breathe. Shear cutting makes no dust.
Try cutting a 12” steel pipe , 3/8” thick with snips.
12” pre painted pipe?
@@asm101 any pipe, pre painted or not. Most pipe is lacquered or plain but impossible to cut with shears.
If you're cutting all of your wall metal you must not have measured and ordered the correct size. Unless the building is a janky design with level changes, the wall metal "should" be the same length and the only cutting would be to adjust the widths at corners and around wall openings, windows, doors.
You always have to cut at some point let be real. Yea I agree about getting the manufacturer to do as much of the cutting as possible. But they can’t make them all
How about you demonstrate how to cut 100 sheets of corrugated steel with shears, without deforming it.
Go ahead and cut them with a grinder or a quick cut, but don’t submerge the burnt edge in water by installing it bottom down or orders them to the proper length from the manufacturer, can you get a factory cut both and you don’t have to cut anything
Its Quite Amazing ! How many You Tube Videos ! Of Them ! Using Angle Grinders ! INCORRECTLY ! TOO !! ID LIKE to see them ! Using HAND HACKSAWS ! CUTTING QUITE HAPPILY AWAY!
It really doesn't matter here in the southwest US.
Couldn't you just brush the edge with rust-proof paint, or is that extra work what defeats the purpose of using a grinder in the first place?
Yes you could but it voids warranty
Seems that corrugated metal is very hard to cut with shears due to the profile ? Too bad you didn’t show us how to cut the corrugated with shears. Always put the cut edge up rather than down !
You used a lot of words to just say that you think it best to use tinsnips instead of a grinder😊😊
You can view videos on double speed if I’m wasting your time
Question: could you not prime and paint the cut edge before installing. I bet the 95 percent of rusted walls that you mentioned that the installers installed, none of the installers bothered to prime and paint the freshly cut edge. Of course unprotected steel will rust regardless on whether it was cut with shears or a grinder!!! Daaaaaa!!!!
Near the end of the video I go over how shear cut protect the cut edge
What tool do you use than? It's very hard to cut thicker gauge steel panels with shears if you ever tried it.
Power shear a good place to start. Typically heavy gage is used structurally and rarely come in contact with the outside elements
You are pissing into the wind. Most people on RUclips only own an angle grinder and a hammer and seem to think they are geniuses who can build anything. They measure with a micrometer, mark with a sharpie, and cut with an angle grinder. I learned years ago not to watch RUclips videos concerning my trades. Wood workers on here are the worst. They make a simple fixture for a problem created by their lack of appropriate equipment and make you think that Einstein would be impressed. I fully expected this video to be one those but was pleasantly surprised to find someone with practical knowledge. Most of the experts here will tell you how to use an angle grinder to replace your 10" bench grinder, 150 ton iron worker, air powered nibbler, pipe notcher, notcher, chassis punch set, bolt cutters, die grinder, orbital sander, and more. You don't need any of that stuff if you have an angle grinder so, save the cash. Millions of RUclipsrs agree.
Great reply. Happy you were pleased by my bs
Ignorance at its best, what are you selling ? I'm listening ,,, Jim
Well if triple tap the like button it’ll delete the video
In what world is a boss going to buy large shears or niblers? I guess you are filming on unemployment.
I know a few
I don't agree
And the world keeps spinning
B.S.
You must be a beginner
@asm101 very far from a beginner, you gonna cut "across"metal sheets with snips?the drip edge at the bottom should never"hold"water,you don't cut the exposed edge of metal sheets,what about nibblers?bet you've never heard of them.i just know bullshit when I see it