You have to pre load the rear brake. Apply the brake by hand, pull the cable tight and tighten down the screw. The rear adjustment screw can be screwed in to relax the preload on the brake. It should drag very slightly. The hand control can be adjusted too, screw it out to tighten the cable sleeve/cable.
yeah. I mean he had a mile of slack when he put the brake handle on and he didn't go back and adjust xD. By the way the easiest way to explain how the adjustment nuts on there work is to loosen them both and tighten the one that pushes the cable tighter or looser as desired. You may have to loosen the other nut out of the way a few times or just back it off completely once you understand the direction you are going. Once it's adjusted properly just use the other nut to lock in the setting.
Usually I watch a tutorial on 2x because everyone waste my time, but this right here has important information every second of the video. No time wasted and perfect imagery, that you. 👌
A few ideas. Harbor Freight sells a small angle grinder for $17 that will work way better than a dremel for cutting metal. Lok Tite is your friend, especially for the motor mounts. The weak point of this bike is the foot peg mount--too easy to stand up on the pegs and bend them sidways. Better to mount a pipe sideways across the front of the frame and affix fold up footpegs to it. You might think about adding another support to the motor mount, from the L bracket to the 'floor' but forward of the motor location.
Just a tip, put the nut on the axle as you hit it with the hammer. It will prevent any thread damage and wider surface to hit if you have terrible aim lol
They are nowhere near 7000 or 8000 watts. 8000 watts will dump you on your ass with that gearing and or do a wheelie to 22mph. At least when they eventually make big electric power they will get that e-acceleration rush we all love so much.
@@kevinsellsit5584 i actually had a very powerful bike around 8000 watts i would do a wheelie didnt matter if i putted my weight on the back or on the front
To make your break work losen the screw holding the wire at the brake assembly and pull out all the slack of the wire to the point that the break shoes touches the drum. Then you can tune the break with the adjustment nut. Nice build
To make the brake work better, add a flat washer with a small inside hole in between the springs and the adjuster through bolt (7:46). This will stop the springs from pushing on the adjuster bolt.
Nice build! Great idea to electrify a vintage style mini bike! I just built a crazy fast razor e-300 scooter using that same 80-100 motor. Just wanted to share the way I mounted my motor, I think it would work perfect for your application. I used the motor case off a stock cheapo 250 watt motor that comes on almost all the cheap electric scooters. I just hollowed it out, broke off the magnets and welded two flat pieces of metal across the front of the case where the 80-100 motor mount holes go. It’s a super strong and clean way to do it. It also adds the added benefit of having a little extra protection for the outrunner because it adds a ring around the motor. It leaves the perfect gap around the motor so it still cools plenty good. Thanks for the info on your video! I learned that I have more options for decent vescs. I’m running the Flipsky 6.6, so far so good but good to know there are other options if this one bails on me.
To install breaks, install all the hardware. screw in adjusters on the handle and wheel. now pull the cable tight at the cable lock, tighten the lock. Now unscrew the wheel adjuster (stretching the cable) until you feel drag spinning the wheel. Then screw it back in 2 turns. Now if you need fine-tuning, you can do it with the hand control.
You guys brought back some memories for me when i was a kid.And your elec motor looks like the same amount of power as i had with a lawn mower engine.Great seeing u kids getting out there doing stuff
I'm a bit late to the punch on this, but here's hlw you adjust the brakes, this goes for all types of line brakes, drum, linear pull, or disc: Cable tension. That's it, no frills, no nuance. The lever pulls the cable, then the cable pulls the mechanism, the mechanism pushes the pad to the brake surface. Even the adjustment system that confused you guys so much, is just another part of that; the adjustment just pushes the cable sleeving back, forcing the internal cable to take a longer path (thus increasing tension). You start by getting a feel for how much play the lever that it pulls has, then you pull the lever to the point where it's close to braking, but not. Then you thread the cable in, and pull it taut, tightening it down in that position. The brakes should work pretty much immediately, but they might be either a bit loose, or a bit tight, so use the adjustment screws as necessary to tune it. Not only is the screw at the end for adjustment, but the slotted screw/nut pair right on the lever are also for adjustment; the screw itself for tension, and the nut to screw into the base of the lever to provide cross-thread torque to hold it. As you keep riding, you might find that you have to readjust these occasionally as the brake pads wear down, that is normal. That is everything you need to know to be able to tune your brakes, applying those tips should solve your issues figuring it out. As for the eBike side of things, it definitely works, but it's very jank. Maybe consider buying a high power front hub motor, and get it to a bike shop to get a good fat tire rim spoked onto it and trued. Not only will that give better results and speed than the skateboard motor, but it will save you a ton of space in the frame to overbuild a battery, and you can probably fit a disc brake onto the hub in place of the drum, which gives you both the brake cooling advantage, and the advantage to apply visual learning onto your brake tuning, by being able to look down the side and seeing how twisting the mechanism squeezes the pad into the brake, then the brake into the other pad. Though, it'll be a jank installation getting the caliper into position for sure. Worth considering though.
What about the front sprocket on the motor? Did that come with the bike frame? With the motor? How did you mount it to the motor? Also, how do you know when the chain is the right tension?
@@DIYesk8Builders so it's a throttle that is attached to the brake so it acts as a brake. I'm building a go kart, so I'm trying to figure it out...Im using two of the 83100 motors.
Quick tip for getting the mount holes marked - rub a tiny bit of grease on your finger then use it to get the front of the motor dirty (not a lot). Then after you wash your hands, rub a blank sheet of paper over the front of the motor (with a hole for the shaft, naturally). Presto, the grease makes a template on the paper that you can use on your brackets. I've seen that trick used countless times on videos of people building frames for vehicles so they could fit all sorts of motors, both electric and petrol/gasoline. Works a treat. Not sure why the manual/cable brake system is giving you trouble - from what I saw you seemed to be doing the cables correctly. But I'm used to mountain bikes with V brakes, not drum. So I could be missing something. It's much the same as the clutch on those little 50cc engines for bikes that were popular here in Australia until they were reclassified as motorcycles and needed license & rego (but they won't pass inspection - cheaters way to ban a fun hobby and mode of transportation)
Those nuts on the brake assembly by the cable are jam nuts and both should go on the hand brake side of the assembly. That should help with your brake adjustment.
you can tighten the cable buy pushing the drum break leaver in a bit and retightening it on to the cable or you can slacken the right nut till its all around half way or 75% of the shaft pull the cable back and tighten the left nut if its too tight just slacken the left nut off and tighten the right nut up
Never use a hard metal hammer on threaded rods (your rear axle). Nylon rawhide or scrap of wood over the axle, and then hit the wood. Otherwise you'll have some messed up threads that won't accept the nuts.
Why such low range and what cld u do differently to get a longer range? Not criticizing im genuinely interested its super cool and wld like to build if i cld get the range up
You would also then need another battery pack to run it and another motor speed controller. Then how do you sync them so they both work in unison and don't fight each other?
this is very interesting, and very thorough. It appears to be doing an electric minibike coming from an RC background, instead of an electric scooter background. Do you realize how much 7000 watts is? That's about 9 hp! Long ago I rode a minibike powered by a Mcculloch go-kart engine (which probably put out around 9 hp) and it absolutely hauled ass! But to get 7000 watts out of your motor, you would need a 14s battery (about 59 volts) that could put out 120 amps - and that would cost an arm and a leg! This electric thing is very interesting, and I'm sure eventually it will completely supersede gas engines, but at present, the only advantage I can see is that it is non-polluting, and quiet (good for mobility scooters, anyway) You can buy a 50cc pocket bike engine on ebay for a little over $50 that would be easier to install, go faster, and not require an expensive and limited-life battery. Maybe some people like their vehicles quiet, but a minibike? Who cares?
All details for the motor can be found here: flipsky.net/collections/e-skateboard/products/brushless-dc-motor-80100-130kv-7000w-for-electric-bike-electric-skateboard-go-cart
11:03 you need to spray the drilling area with lubricant. More friction = dull blade. Less friction ➡️ less heat ➡️ bit stays sharper longer and cuts faster. This is SUCH a badass project! I love it. I'm gonna try it, but see if I can do a custom frame.
Just need to fully assemble the break assembly then pull any slack out of the cable at the drum lever . Tighten the lock screw take out any slack with the threaded tube adjustment then tighten he nut on each side of the threaded tube .
Careful with analog ADC inputs, they can go full throttle if the cable breaks. "A pull-down resistor between ADC and GND should be enough. A value of e.g. 10k should work." I'd also recommend putting a bearing on the other side of that motor shaft and stabilizing it so you don't break the motor. The VESC 6 Firmware and tool were just released, upgrade if you haven't already.
you pull he cable untill its tight and you pull he break untill just before it initiates the breaking. then you adjust with the screw till you are happy with the breaking
That ESC is 80A cont with 150A peak. Battery is probably putting out no more than 50A at 38V? So your 8kW motor is running less than 2kW. Motor is only rated for 14S, so you'll need a bunch of amps. Are you going to go with LiPos?
The link shows your motor produces 17Nm of torque. I use a Bafang BBSHD for my ebike, which can produce 160Nm and 1500W peak when used on 14S, pulling 30A from the batteries (modest for 14S3P or 4P packs using 18650 cells, if each cell is rated at 10-15A). Even the Bafang 250W produces 80Nm. The motor you've got there is for something with little wheels, like a skateboard, so the low torque is mitigated by small wheels (AKA low gearing) and the high wheel speed produced by the high kW output gives you your speed. 17Nm with that wheel/tyre combo is painful and the motor is going to pull huge amps and still not really be any more powerful, unless you can gear it right down to multiply your torque. You don't see 40 ton trucks with 2000hp engines and 300Nm of torque, you see them with 300hp and 2000Nm of torque, to move the load. Point is, 'power' is not always the amount of kW your motor can output, same as HP figures for cars mean nothing if they aren't match by a decent torque figure - that tyre shredding off the line isn't HP, it's torque.. You might be surprised what a 1kW motor can do putting out 150Nm of torque.. Hope you can make it work and enjoy it - you're right, electric is the future..
That's a lot for a frame that runs on such a simple turning concept. But the concept of being low to the ground is kind of cool I think. One thing I don't like when riding on ice in the winter is being so high up because it can really hurt when you fall. The design of this type of bike also makes it easy to repair yourself and things on this, like wheels will last much longer than bike wheels.
Very cool! When I was a kid in the early 70’s I had a gas mini bike just like this and the gas tank was positioned front of the seat mounted under the top portion of the frame, you might want to put your battery box there for a more retro look. 😎
You have to have a spacer between the bearings inside the wheels so you can tighten your axles. Your crushing your bearings trying to tighten the axles.or like what your doing is running them loose.
RUclips is getting way too comfortable showing two adds before each video
Fr, and they are both unskipable
@@Jsosodke I mean like RUclips got to make money
what ads? Brave Browser mah boy... youre welcome...
Just get premium. It's one of the few subscriptions that's worth it.
Nah frr
now!!this is the way u teach people to build something..u tell them evry single thing,he even said where he got d frames. nice one bro..
Absolutely !!
M
MMmm⅞@@bastianrivero
You have to pre load the rear brake. Apply the brake by hand, pull the cable tight and tighten down the screw. The rear adjustment screw can be screwed in to relax the preload on the brake. It should drag very slightly. The hand control can be adjusted too, screw it out to tighten the cable sleeve/cable.
Spot on. The brake lever should have very little travel before you feel the brake begin to bite.
yeah. I mean he had a mile of slack when he put the brake handle on and he didn't go back and adjust xD.
By the way the easiest way to explain how the adjustment nuts on there work is to loosen them both and tighten the one that pushes the cable tighter or looser as desired. You may have to loosen the other nut out of the way a few times or just back it off completely once you understand the direction you are going. Once it's adjusted properly just use the other nut to lock in the setting.
Usually I watch a tutorial on 2x because everyone waste my time, but this right here has important information every second of the video. No time wasted and perfect imagery, that you. 👌
Glad you like it
A few ideas. Harbor Freight sells a small angle grinder for $17 that will work way better than a dremel for cutting metal. Lok Tite is your friend, especially for the motor mounts. The weak point of this bike is the foot peg mount--too easy to stand up on the pegs and bend them sidways. Better to mount a pipe sideways across the front of the frame and affix fold up footpegs to it. You might think about adding another support to the motor mount, from the L bracket to the 'floor' but forward of the motor location.
Try lowering the tire pressure a little when you're riding it off road and it will be much more bearable... 🍺👍
Cost? Range before needing a charge?
Just a tip, put the nut on the axle as you hit it with the hammer. It will prevent any thread damage and wider surface to hit if you have terrible aim lol
How many amps are you currently pushing with this configuration?
They are nowhere near 7000 or 8000 watts. 8000 watts will dump you on your ass with that gearing and or do a wheelie to 22mph. At least when they eventually make big electric power they will get that e-acceleration rush we all love so much.
@@kevinsellsit5584 i actually had a very powerful bike around 8000 watts i would do a wheelie didnt matter if i putted my weight on the back or on the front
@@kevinsellsit5584 Yes, judging by their description, I would say they're around 1 kW, maybe 1,5 with an unoptimised gear ratio.
To make your break work losen the screw holding the wire at the brake assembly and pull out all the slack of the wire to the point that the break shoes touches the drum. Then you can tune the break with the adjustment nut. Nice build
Brake, not break.
7:23 It's looks like a simple wire tensioner.
To make the brake work better, add a flat washer with a small inside hole in between the springs and the adjuster through bolt (7:46). This will stop the springs from pushing on the adjuster bolt.
You forgot to place the inner spacer between the bearings on both wheels.
Very important detail! Nice catch. Bearings will burn out fast without them
@@mapquestHs with the tools they have ,is like the socks they were.
Nice build! Great idea to electrify a vintage style mini bike! I just built a crazy fast razor e-300 scooter using that same 80-100 motor. Just wanted to share the way I mounted my motor, I think it would work perfect for your application. I used the motor case off a stock cheapo 250 watt motor that comes on almost all the cheap electric scooters. I just hollowed it out, broke off the magnets and welded two flat pieces of metal across the front of the case where the 80-100 motor mount holes go. It’s a super strong and clean way to do it. It also adds the added benefit of having a little extra protection for the outrunner because it adds a ring around the motor. It leaves the perfect gap around the motor so it still cools plenty good. Thanks for the info on your video! I learned that I have more options for decent vescs. I’m running the Flipsky 6.6, so far so good but good to know there are other options if this one bails on me.
I’m planing on putting a golf cart engine in a power wheels with suspension
golf carts are ev powerd not gas,lol
use a predator 212 there only 100$ and way smaller and faster
@@Jozavenue ahhh you do realize there are gas powered and EV powered golf carts right.
How does it compare to the Super 73?
To install breaks, install all the hardware. screw in adjusters on the handle and wheel. now pull the cable tight at the cable lock, tighten the lock. Now unscrew the wheel adjuster (stretching the cable) until you feel drag spinning the wheel. Then screw it back in 2 turns. Now if you need fine-tuning, you can do it with the hand control.
You guys brought back some memories for me when i was a kid.And your elec motor looks like the same amount of power as i had with a lawn mower engine.Great seeing u kids getting out there doing stuff
How much did you pay for everything in this project?
Good job guys, yall should 1. Buy a grinder
2. Buy a cheap welder even a stick welder would work.
this reminds me of the mini bike from 7days2die game
lol so true
If it could be folded like a folding bike, it would be awesome.
He hits a tree with it and it'll fold right up.
It'll look dorky ad fuck
any idea what should i use for a body if my budget is under 50$? (no motors or battery just the body)
I absolutely love the simple frame design.
ITS like A69 style back in the day i had the same frame iam 55 now lol😩
What are the wheels made out of? Is it a solid metal?
That headtube doesnt even have bearings in it what the hell
Young people being industrious. Awesome!!!!🤘👏👏👏
I'm a bit late to the punch on this, but here's hlw you adjust the brakes, this goes for all types of line brakes, drum, linear pull, or disc:
Cable tension. That's it, no frills, no nuance. The lever pulls the cable, then the cable pulls the mechanism, the mechanism pushes the pad to the brake surface. Even the adjustment system that confused you guys so much, is just another part of that; the adjustment just pushes the cable sleeving back, forcing the internal cable to take a longer path (thus increasing tension). You start by getting a feel for how much play the lever that it pulls has, then you pull the lever to the point where it's close to braking, but not. Then you thread the cable in, and pull it taut, tightening it down in that position. The brakes should work pretty much immediately, but they might be either a bit loose, or a bit tight, so use the adjustment screws as necessary to tune it. Not only is the screw at the end for adjustment, but the slotted screw/nut pair right on the lever are also for adjustment; the screw itself for tension, and the nut to screw into the base of the lever to provide cross-thread torque to hold it. As you keep riding, you might find that you have to readjust these occasionally as the brake pads wear down, that is normal. That is everything you need to know to be able to tune your brakes, applying those tips should solve your issues figuring it out.
As for the eBike side of things, it definitely works, but it's very jank. Maybe consider buying a high power front hub motor, and get it to a bike shop to get a good fat tire rim spoked onto it and trued. Not only will that give better results and speed than the skateboard motor, but it will save you a ton of space in the frame to overbuild a battery, and you can probably fit a disc brake onto the hub in place of the drum, which gives you both the brake cooling advantage, and the advantage to apply visual learning onto your brake tuning, by being able to look down the side and seeing how twisting the mechanism squeezes the pad into the brake, then the brake into the other pad. Though, it'll be a jank installation getting the caliper into position for sure. Worth considering though.
What about the front sprocket on the motor? Did that come with the bike frame? With the motor? How did you mount it to the motor?
Also, how do you know when the chain is the right tension?
It was bought separately. It is mounted to the motor using a keyway and set screw. Chain tension was trial and error
u cant add drag break in the speed controllers and get rid of the hand
break?
There is an electric brake yes
where did you get that motor pulley?
cool build I think im gonna try a build like this but probably replace the back wheel with a wheel hub motor.
very smart and takes out a lot of the headache
Quick question about the brake. You show the wiring and computer setup...but how's it work?
It's a throttle that when engaged slows down the motor and the rear wheel, regenerating in the process
@@DIYesk8Builders so it's a throttle that is attached to the brake so it acts as a brake. I'm building a go kart, so I'm trying to figure it out...Im using two of the 83100 motors.
Hi, it is basically a negative throttle. It's an electronic brake
why you didn't put a chain tensioner?
Quick tip for getting the mount holes marked - rub a tiny bit of grease on your finger then use it to get the front of the motor dirty (not a lot). Then after you wash your hands, rub a blank sheet of paper over the front of the motor (with a hole for the shaft, naturally). Presto, the grease makes a template on the paper that you can use on your brackets.
I've seen that trick used countless times on videos of people building frames for vehicles so they could fit all sorts of motors, both electric and petrol/gasoline. Works a treat.
Not sure why the manual/cable brake system is giving you trouble - from what I saw you seemed to be doing the cables correctly. But I'm used to mountain bikes with V brakes, not drum. So I could be missing something. It's much the same as the clutch on those little 50cc engines for bikes that were popular here in Australia until they were reclassified as motorcycles and needed license & rego (but they won't pass inspection - cheaters way to ban a fun hobby and mode of transportation)
fuck grease just get a pencil and paper, rub it like your dead grandmother’s grave site,
crayon works too
Hows the acceleration? If i wanted to convert a kids dirt bike to electric could this compare to like a 10hp engine?
Acceleration is pretty crazy, but I'm not sure how it compares to a 10hp engine
Those nuts on the brake assembly by the cable are jam nuts and both should go on the hand brake side of the assembly. That should help with your brake adjustment.
you should use a plastic or copper hammer for hitting the axel , or put the nut on first , or you risk damaging the threads
you can tighten the cable buy pushing the drum break leaver in a bit and retightening it on to the cable or you can slacken the right nut till its all around half way or 75% of the shaft pull the cable back and tighten the left nut if its too tight just slacken the left nut off and tighten the right nut up
Never use a hard metal hammer on threaded rods (your rear axle). Nylon rawhide or scrap of wood over the axle, and then hit the wood. Otherwise you'll have some messed up threads that won't accept the nuts.
Sick bro !and you seem hella smart you should get a career in these things !
What kind of drill and tools do I need ?
Any other videos with the upgrades, since this video was made??
Just uploaded a trailer this past week and the build video is coming in the next couple of weeks!
can you dial down the power to up the range?
you can dial down the power using the VESC tool. Everything is completely customizable. Would not give that much more range though
Need an update with the 12s battery! Been on the fence about buying this motor for a while now :)
Watch the update video!: ruclips.net/video/lidW69cRnZM/видео.html
what did you use for the sprocket on the motor?
I found one online. It was the hardest part to find for the build
If you put tape on the otherside of the motor shaft and put a bottle over it you’ll get some old Skool motor bike sounds 😜
wonder if you could find a small hub motor instead of a separate one and use lower center engine mount for battery
Why such low range and what cld u do differently to get a longer range? Not criticizing im genuinely interested its super cool and wld like to build if i cld get the range up
battery is under spec'd. Watch the new upgrade video that just came out for more range!
So..... how much range do you get using what size battery? @what speed? =D
About the brake, drill 1-2 holes in the moving arm , lower to the tilting point, space them aprox. 1\4" or 10mm
You should add a 2nd motor and see how double the power affects performance
He could just add more power. That motor is way more powerful he just doesn’t run full because of fear if death.
You would also then need another battery pack to run it and another motor speed controller. Then how do you sync them so they both work in unison and don't fight each other?
this looks great and I have been talking about doing a doodlebug e build for a while. this is cool AF
Here before it blows up 99k views
Volts and amps?
Great video! I really appreciate the detail you went into on the electronics. Look forward to the improvements and updates.
this is very interesting, and very thorough. It appears to be doing an electric minibike coming from an RC background, instead of an electric scooter background. Do you realize how much 7000 watts is? That's about 9 hp! Long ago I rode a minibike powered by a Mcculloch go-kart engine (which probably put out around 9 hp) and it absolutely hauled ass! But to get 7000 watts out of your motor, you would need a 14s battery (about 59 volts) that could put out 120 amps - and that would cost an arm and a leg! This electric thing is very interesting, and I'm sure eventually it will completely supersede gas engines, but at present, the only advantage I can see is that it is non-polluting, and quiet (good for mobility scooters, anyway) You can buy a 50cc pocket bike engine on ebay for a little over $50 that would be easier to install, go faster, and not require an expensive and limited-life battery. Maybe some people like their vehicles quiet, but a minibike? Who cares?
Nice build! Throw those drill bits away and get you some good bits, you’ll be amazed at the difference!!
Hi, great project.. if u dont mind to share the details of the electric engine that u are using?
All details for the motor can be found here: flipsky.net/collections/e-skateboard/products/brushless-dc-motor-80100-130kv-7000w-for-electric-bike-electric-skateboard-go-cart
where can i buy the torque6 esc
Excelente trabajo 👌👍. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷🤗
Put the rear axle bolt in from the opposite side, you won't have to hold as much stuff while you're lining it all up.
Thanks for the tip!
Great job guys be safe
Great teacher, I hope i can learn more from you thank you sir.
As your break pads wear down you keep tensioning the wire with that adjustment nuts on the break cable. Set it to freewheel just before break contact.
When will the battery pack upgrade come?
We are hoping to get the video out in a couple weeks
11:03 you need to spray the drilling area with lubricant. More friction = dull blade. Less friction ➡️ less heat ➡️ bit stays sharper longer and cuts faster.
This is SUCH a badass project! I love it. I'm gonna try it, but see if I can do a custom frame.
Would love to see that custom frame! Will save you some money for sure
top speed?
Not 8000w output no way
The website only says 7000w max. I doubt with their setup and controller it was maybe making 3000 watts.
@@nathanwoodruff9422 yeah probably more accurate
Can tou please add speedometer and turn signals??
Just need to fully assemble the break assembly then pull any slack out of the cable at the drum lever . Tighten the lock screw take out any slack with the threaded tube adjustment then tighten he nut on each side of the threaded tube .
I respect how much information you gave not only did you build it you also gave clear instructions well done
Careful with analog ADC inputs, they can go full throttle if the cable breaks. "A pull-down resistor between ADC and GND should be enough. A value of e.g. 10k should work." I'd also recommend putting a bearing on the other side of that motor shaft and stabilizing it so you don't break the motor. The VESC 6 Firmware and tool were just released, upgrade if you haven't already.
21:00. I agree drive trians always the hardest part of building a motor powered vehicle
you pull he cable untill its tight and you pull he break untill just before it initiates the breaking. then you adjust with the screw till you are happy with the breaking
This was great and informative you guys went From eboards to mini bikes awesome.
That ESC is 80A cont with 150A peak. Battery is probably putting out no more than 50A at 38V? So your 8kW motor is running less than 2kW. Motor is only rated for 14S, so you'll need a bunch of amps. Are you going to go with LiPos?
Motor can do 14s
This is super cool!!!!!! I want one!!!!!!😁 the problem with the brake is that it's a drum....
Great job youngman.
Thanks!
12 volt system ? or what is it pls ?
10s
Cool! I want to build one for my grand kids!
I would like to see you build a 26" wheel recumbent please. You do a great job teaching us. Thanks.
Or a 30" fat tire bike!
Молодец!Хороший получился аппарат!Удачи!
the link to your "8000watt" motor leads to a 7000watt motor? (kv is not the saem at wattage)
Yeah it's actually 7,000W, but when we bought it it was listed as 8,000W
I like that rim makes for easy tube or tyre change
A 72 volt brushless motor damn man it will have nice looks and no one will ever know how fast this thing is
This is amazing man!
Great video! I love how you explain everything
The link shows your motor produces 17Nm of torque. I use a Bafang BBSHD for my ebike, which can produce 160Nm and 1500W peak when used on 14S, pulling 30A from the batteries (modest for 14S3P or 4P packs using 18650 cells, if each cell is rated at 10-15A). Even the Bafang 250W produces 80Nm. The motor you've got there is for something with little wheels, like a skateboard, so the low torque is mitigated by small wheels (AKA low gearing) and the high wheel speed produced by the high kW output gives you your speed. 17Nm with that wheel/tyre combo is painful and the motor is going to pull huge amps and still not really be any more powerful, unless you can gear it right down to multiply your torque. You don't see 40 ton trucks with 2000hp engines and 300Nm of torque, you see them with 300hp and 2000Nm of torque, to move the load. Point is, 'power' is not always the amount of kW your motor can output, same as HP figures for cars mean nothing if they aren't match by a decent torque figure - that tyre shredding off the line isn't HP, it's torque.. You might be surprised what a 1kW motor can do putting out 150Nm of torque..
Hope you can make it work and enjoy it - you're right, electric is the future..
bro message me your knowledge brought me into the 21 century thank you from the bottom of my soul
That's a lot for a frame that runs on such a simple turning concept. But the concept of being low to the ground is kind of cool I think. One thing I don't like when riding on ice in the winter is being so high up because it can really hurt when you fall. The design of this type of bike also makes it easy to repair yourself and things on this, like wheels will last much longer than bike wheels.
Great video, little tip* if you use engine coolant when drilling through steel.. difference is night/day. Fantastic job on the video
Thanks!
What is the name of the battery you used?
we now use a 16s3p P42A Battery
How fast does this bike go with that motor ?
in our updated version is now goes 35MPH
@@DIYesk8Builders is the limited speed from the controller or is it because that’s the motor’s max speed capacity? Thanks!
It has to do with the gearing and the KV of the motor and the size of the wheel
Great project. Congratulations.
Very cool! When I was a kid in the early 70’s I had a gas mini bike just like this and the gas tank was positioned front of the seat mounted under the top portion of the frame, you might want to put your battery box there for a more retro look. 😎
Thanks!
You have to have a spacer between the bearings inside the wheels so you can tighten your axles. Your crushing your bearings trying to tighten the axles.or like what your doing is running them loose.
thank you for the tip!
Where can I buy the outrunner motor.....
Flipsky!
Where is your fuse(s) in the system?
It will help protect your electronics.
The upgraded V2 bike battery has a fuse on the charge port. That video is here: ruclips.net/video/lidW69cRnZM/видео.html
Does it have regenerative braking?
yes
Pull on the brake line with pliars beforeand as you tighten the bolts. The line is probably loose.