You have to pre load the rear brake. Apply the brake by hand, pull the cable tight and tighten down the screw. The rear adjustment screw can be screwed in to relax the preload on the brake. It should drag very slightly. The hand control can be adjusted too, screw it out to tighten the cable sleeve/cable.
yeah. I mean he had a mile of slack when he put the brake handle on and he didn't go back and adjust xD. By the way the easiest way to explain how the adjustment nuts on there work is to loosen them both and tighten the one that pushes the cable tighter or looser as desired. You may have to loosen the other nut out of the way a few times or just back it off completely once you understand the direction you are going. Once it's adjusted properly just use the other nut to lock in the setting.
A few ideas. Harbor Freight sells a small angle grinder for $17 that will work way better than a dremel for cutting metal. Lok Tite is your friend, especially for the motor mounts. The weak point of this bike is the foot peg mount--too easy to stand up on the pegs and bend them sidways. Better to mount a pipe sideways across the front of the frame and affix fold up footpegs to it. You might think about adding another support to the motor mount, from the L bracket to the 'floor' but forward of the motor location.
Usually I watch a tutorial on 2x because everyone waste my time, but this right here has important information every second of the video. No time wasted and perfect imagery, that you. 👌
Just a tip, put the nut on the axle as you hit it with the hammer. It will prevent any thread damage and wider surface to hit if you have terrible aim lol
Nice build! Great idea to electrify a vintage style mini bike! I just built a crazy fast razor e-300 scooter using that same 80-100 motor. Just wanted to share the way I mounted my motor, I think it would work perfect for your application. I used the motor case off a stock cheapo 250 watt motor that comes on almost all the cheap electric scooters. I just hollowed it out, broke off the magnets and welded two flat pieces of metal across the front of the case where the 80-100 motor mount holes go. It’s a super strong and clean way to do it. It also adds the added benefit of having a little extra protection for the outrunner because it adds a ring around the motor. It leaves the perfect gap around the motor so it still cools plenty good. Thanks for the info on your video! I learned that I have more options for decent vescs. I’m running the Flipsky 6.6, so far so good but good to know there are other options if this one bails on me.
To make your break work losen the screw holding the wire at the brake assembly and pull out all the slack of the wire to the point that the break shoes touches the drum. Then you can tune the break with the adjustment nut. Nice build
To make the brake work better, add a flat washer with a small inside hole in between the springs and the adjuster through bolt (7:46). This will stop the springs from pushing on the adjuster bolt.
You guys brought back some memories for me when i was a kid.And your elec motor looks like the same amount of power as i had with a lawn mower engine.Great seeing u kids getting out there doing stuff
Quick tip for getting the mount holes marked - rub a tiny bit of grease on your finger then use it to get the front of the motor dirty (not a lot). Then after you wash your hands, rub a blank sheet of paper over the front of the motor (with a hole for the shaft, naturally). Presto, the grease makes a template on the paper that you can use on your brackets. I've seen that trick used countless times on videos of people building frames for vehicles so they could fit all sorts of motors, both electric and petrol/gasoline. Works a treat. Not sure why the manual/cable brake system is giving you trouble - from what I saw you seemed to be doing the cables correctly. But I'm used to mountain bikes with V brakes, not drum. So I could be missing something. It's much the same as the clutch on those little 50cc engines for bikes that were popular here in Australia until they were reclassified as motorcycles and needed license & rego (but they won't pass inspection - cheaters way to ban a fun hobby and mode of transportation)
To install breaks, install all the hardware. screw in adjusters on the handle and wheel. now pull the cable tight at the cable lock, tighten the lock. Now unscrew the wheel adjuster (stretching the cable) until you feel drag spinning the wheel. Then screw it back in 2 turns. Now if you need fine-tuning, you can do it with the hand control.
Very cool! When I was a kid in the early 70’s I had a gas mini bike just like this and the gas tank was positioned front of the seat mounted under the top portion of the frame, you might want to put your battery box there for a more retro look. 😎
Loosen mechanism clamp screw. Pull mechanism forward til it engages then back up til its free again and the tighten clamp screw. Then use the adjustment on the cable to fine tune it.
11:03 you need to spray the drilling area with lubricant. More friction = dull blade. Less friction ➡️ less heat ➡️ bit stays sharper longer and cuts faster. This is SUCH a badass project! I love it. I'm gonna try it, but see if I can do a custom frame.
Careful with analog ADC inputs, they can go full throttle if the cable breaks. "A pull-down resistor between ADC and GND should be enough. A value of e.g. 10k should work." I'd also recommend putting a bearing on the other side of that motor shaft and stabilizing it so you don't break the motor. The VESC 6 Firmware and tool were just released, upgrade if you haven't already.
you can tighten the cable buy pushing the drum break leaver in a bit and retightening it on to the cable or you can slacken the right nut till its all around half way or 75% of the shaft pull the cable back and tighten the left nut if its too tight just slacken the left nut off and tighten the right nut up
Those nuts on the brake assembly by the cable are jam nuts and both should go on the hand brake side of the assembly. That should help with your brake adjustment.
I'm a bit late to the punch on this, but here's hlw you adjust the brakes, this goes for all types of line brakes, drum, linear pull, or disc: Cable tension. That's it, no frills, no nuance. The lever pulls the cable, then the cable pulls the mechanism, the mechanism pushes the pad to the brake surface. Even the adjustment system that confused you guys so much, is just another part of that; the adjustment just pushes the cable sleeving back, forcing the internal cable to take a longer path (thus increasing tension). You start by getting a feel for how much play the lever that it pulls has, then you pull the lever to the point where it's close to braking, but not. Then you thread the cable in, and pull it taut, tightening it down in that position. The brakes should work pretty much immediately, but they might be either a bit loose, or a bit tight, so use the adjustment screws as necessary to tune it. Not only is the screw at the end for adjustment, but the slotted screw/nut pair right on the lever are also for adjustment; the screw itself for tension, and the nut to screw into the base of the lever to provide cross-thread torque to hold it. As you keep riding, you might find that you have to readjust these occasionally as the brake pads wear down, that is normal. That is everything you need to know to be able to tune your brakes, applying those tips should solve your issues figuring it out. As for the eBike side of things, it definitely works, but it's very jank. Maybe consider buying a high power front hub motor, and get it to a bike shop to get a good fat tire rim spoked onto it and trued. Not only will that give better results and speed than the skateboard motor, but it will save you a ton of space in the frame to overbuild a battery, and you can probably fit a disc brake onto the hub in place of the drum, which gives you both the brake cooling advantage, and the advantage to apply visual learning onto your brake tuning, by being able to look down the side and seeing how twisting the mechanism squeezes the pad into the brake, then the brake into the other pad. Though, it'll be a jank installation getting the caliper into position for sure. Worth considering though.
That's a lot for a frame that runs on such a simple turning concept. But the concept of being low to the ground is kind of cool I think. One thing I don't like when riding on ice in the winter is being so high up because it can really hurt when you fall. The design of this type of bike also makes it easy to repair yourself and things on this, like wheels will last much longer than bike wheels.
this is very interesting, and very thorough. It appears to be doing an electric minibike coming from an RC background, instead of an electric scooter background. Do you realize how much 7000 watts is? That's about 9 hp! Long ago I rode a minibike powered by a Mcculloch go-kart engine (which probably put out around 9 hp) and it absolutely hauled ass! But to get 7000 watts out of your motor, you would need a 14s battery (about 59 volts) that could put out 120 amps - and that would cost an arm and a leg! This electric thing is very interesting, and I'm sure eventually it will completely supersede gas engines, but at present, the only advantage I can see is that it is non-polluting, and quiet (good for mobility scooters, anyway) You can buy a 50cc pocket bike engine on ebay for a little over $50 that would be easier to install, go faster, and not require an expensive and limited-life battery. Maybe some people like their vehicles quiet, but a minibike? Who cares?
What about the front sprocket on the motor? Did that come with the bike frame? With the motor? How did you mount it to the motor? Also, how do you know when the chain is the right tension?
you pull he cable untill its tight and you pull he break untill just before it initiates the breaking. then you adjust with the screw till you are happy with the breaking
That ESC is 80A cont with 150A peak. Battery is probably putting out no more than 50A at 38V? So your 8kW motor is running less than 2kW. Motor is only rated for 14S, so you'll need a bunch of amps. Are you going to go with LiPos?
They are nowhere near 7000 or 8000 watts. 8000 watts will dump you on your ass with that gearing and or do a wheelie to 22mph. At least when they eventually make big electric power they will get that e-acceleration rush we all love so much.
@@kevinsellsit5584 i actually had a very powerful bike around 8000 watts i would do a wheelie didnt matter if i putted my weight on the back or on the front
Hope you got the brakes working. It's really easy actually. Just pull the lever on the brake drum until it's almost fully loaded before tightening it down. You will need to adjust once in a while due to brake wear. This is done with the first threaded tube you screwed in. Loosen on back nut and turn the threaded tube counter clockwise to back it out(towards the front of the bike) once adjusted rrtighten the nuts on each side.
You ever heard of Stanley Meyer? Or Moses West? I think both of their inventions, if combined, would be an industry KILLER! Self refueling water car ? Worth looking into...
great video. I had a mini bike as a kid and I loved it. I've seen complete gasoline powered mini bikes for half the price of your frame sold on Black Friday at tractor supply Co. you could pick one of those up and modify it using your shown electric parts, cutting your overall costs significantly.
The link shows your motor produces 17Nm of torque. I use a Bafang BBSHD for my ebike, which can produce 160Nm and 1500W peak when used on 14S, pulling 30A from the batteries (modest for 14S3P or 4P packs using 18650 cells, if each cell is rated at 10-15A). Even the Bafang 250W produces 80Nm. The motor you've got there is for something with little wheels, like a skateboard, so the low torque is mitigated by small wheels (AKA low gearing) and the high wheel speed produced by the high kW output gives you your speed. 17Nm with that wheel/tyre combo is painful and the motor is going to pull huge amps and still not really be any more powerful, unless you can gear it right down to multiply your torque. You don't see 40 ton trucks with 2000hp engines and 300Nm of torque, you see them with 300hp and 2000Nm of torque, to move the load. Point is, 'power' is not always the amount of kW your motor can output, same as HP figures for cars mean nothing if they aren't match by a decent torque figure - that tyre shredding off the line isn't HP, it's torque.. You might be surprised what a 1kW motor can do putting out 150Nm of torque.. Hope you can make it work and enjoy it - you're right, electric is the future..
And as far as the mechanical break just manually apply the brake then back off a bit until wheel moves freely and adjust the cable accordingly you want the brake pad to essentially float right above the rotor almost like the thickness of a playing card
Why such low range and what cld u do differently to get a longer range? Not criticizing im genuinely interested its super cool and wld like to build if i cld get the range up
You have to pull that cable tight & ones it’s tight the thing that the cable goes threw tight that up & then adjust the threaded rod till the brake shoes are just about rubbing the drum.
Never use a hard metal hammer on threaded rods (your rear axle). Nylon rawhide or scrap of wood over the axle, and then hit the wood. Otherwise you'll have some messed up threads that won't accept the nuts.
@@DIYesk8Builders so it's a throttle that is attached to the brake so it acts as a brake. I'm building a go kart, so I'm trying to figure it out...Im using two of the 83100 motors.
7000W ? What is the top speed on that bad boy ? I have a similar frame with 1800W aliexpress brushless motor setup, the thing will do 50 mph on a 48V setup, but its a death trap. Im waiting to add front and rear disc brakes before I push it beyond 20-30mph range. Great part about going electric is you can stay on most bike paths if youre respectful to other traffic.
In this video the power was limited to about 1800W based on the battery specs so the top speed is only about 23 MPH. In our update video we upgrade to a much larger 16s3p 21700 pack so that the bike now tops out at around 35 MPH.
@@DIYesk8Builders still looks like an overrated 7000W. That thing should destroy tires with that much power. Even my mercane wwp with 500W dual motors is a death trap with instant acceleration. I think you need to check those specs again on the wattage. 7000W is approx 9 hp mechanical. Coleman ct200 bikes with 5hp engines will demolish that thing in speed and power. If you had 9hp electric with the instant torque, you would be doing wheelies. So again nothing wrong with the build, some improvements to be made, silly brackets too long, etc. But 7000W was a good laugh, maybe an extra 0 ? who knows.
Is this seriously a 7kw motor?? So this has the same output as a Stealth Bomber e bike? This motor doesn't look any different in size to the 250w motor I removed from my 6 year olds electric bike. I know everything gets better over time and this technology has been around for a while now but is this a 7000w motor?If so please can you tell me where I can get one.Thanks.
Do you think you can put a set of bicycle downhill forks on the front? Not sure what it would take to marry that tube to forks 🤔 Seems like the next logical step lol
These numbers make little to no sense. 130kV is 130,000 Volts! The motor is advertised with max 148A. With these small wires just not possible. Maybe 25A. Times 36V = 900W.
*Kudos to you young fellow(s).* Keep up the good work. Pay no attention to the *_know-it-all lardy tails_* that are prompt to criticize others' work but they themselves haven't built shit.
All details for the motor can be found here: flipsky.net/collections/e-skateboard/products/brushless-dc-motor-80100-130kv-7000w-for-electric-bike-electric-skateboard-go-cart
now!!this is the way u teach people to build something..u tell them evry single thing,he even said where he got d frames. nice one bro..
Absolutely !!
M
MMmm⅞@@bastianrivero
You have to pre load the rear brake. Apply the brake by hand, pull the cable tight and tighten down the screw. The rear adjustment screw can be screwed in to relax the preload on the brake. It should drag very slightly. The hand control can be adjusted too, screw it out to tighten the cable sleeve/cable.
Spot on. The brake lever should have very little travel before you feel the brake begin to bite.
yeah. I mean he had a mile of slack when he put the brake handle on and he didn't go back and adjust xD.
By the way the easiest way to explain how the adjustment nuts on there work is to loosen them both and tighten the one that pushes the cable tighter or looser as desired. You may have to loosen the other nut out of the way a few times or just back it off completely once you understand the direction you are going. Once it's adjusted properly just use the other nut to lock in the setting.
RUclips is getting way too comfortable showing two adds before each video
Fr, and they are both unskipable
@@Jsosodke I mean like RUclips got to make money
what ads? Brave Browser mah boy... youre welcome...
Just get premium. It's one of the few subscriptions that's worth it.
Nah frr
A few ideas. Harbor Freight sells a small angle grinder for $17 that will work way better than a dremel for cutting metal. Lok Tite is your friend, especially for the motor mounts. The weak point of this bike is the foot peg mount--too easy to stand up on the pegs and bend them sidways. Better to mount a pipe sideways across the front of the frame and affix fold up footpegs to it. You might think about adding another support to the motor mount, from the L bracket to the 'floor' but forward of the motor location.
Usually I watch a tutorial on 2x because everyone waste my time, but this right here has important information every second of the video. No time wasted and perfect imagery, that you. 👌
Glad you like it
Just a tip, put the nut on the axle as you hit it with the hammer. It will prevent any thread damage and wider surface to hit if you have terrible aim lol
Try lowering the tire pressure a little when you're riding it off road and it will be much more bearable... 🍺👍
Nice build! Great idea to electrify a vintage style mini bike! I just built a crazy fast razor e-300 scooter using that same 80-100 motor. Just wanted to share the way I mounted my motor, I think it would work perfect for your application. I used the motor case off a stock cheapo 250 watt motor that comes on almost all the cheap electric scooters. I just hollowed it out, broke off the magnets and welded two flat pieces of metal across the front of the case where the 80-100 motor mount holes go. It’s a super strong and clean way to do it. It also adds the added benefit of having a little extra protection for the outrunner because it adds a ring around the motor. It leaves the perfect gap around the motor so it still cools plenty good. Thanks for the info on your video! I learned that I have more options for decent vescs. I’m running the Flipsky 6.6, so far so good but good to know there are other options if this one bails on me.
To make your break work losen the screw holding the wire at the brake assembly and pull out all the slack of the wire to the point that the break shoes touches the drum. Then you can tune the break with the adjustment nut. Nice build
Brake, not break.
To make the brake work better, add a flat washer with a small inside hole in between the springs and the adjuster through bolt (7:46). This will stop the springs from pushing on the adjuster bolt.
I absolutely love the simple frame design.
ITS like A69 style back in the day i had the same frame iam 55 now lol😩
You guys brought back some memories for me when i was a kid.And your elec motor looks like the same amount of power as i had with a lawn mower engine.Great seeing u kids getting out there doing stuff
Quick tip for getting the mount holes marked - rub a tiny bit of grease on your finger then use it to get the front of the motor dirty (not a lot). Then after you wash your hands, rub a blank sheet of paper over the front of the motor (with a hole for the shaft, naturally). Presto, the grease makes a template on the paper that you can use on your brackets.
I've seen that trick used countless times on videos of people building frames for vehicles so they could fit all sorts of motors, both electric and petrol/gasoline. Works a treat.
Not sure why the manual/cable brake system is giving you trouble - from what I saw you seemed to be doing the cables correctly. But I'm used to mountain bikes with V brakes, not drum. So I could be missing something. It's much the same as the clutch on those little 50cc engines for bikes that were popular here in Australia until they were reclassified as motorcycles and needed license & rego (but they won't pass inspection - cheaters way to ban a fun hobby and mode of transportation)
fuck grease just get a pencil and paper, rub it like your dead grandmother’s grave site,
crayon works too
To install breaks, install all the hardware. screw in adjusters on the handle and wheel. now pull the cable tight at the cable lock, tighten the lock. Now unscrew the wheel adjuster (stretching the cable) until you feel drag spinning the wheel. Then screw it back in 2 turns. Now if you need fine-tuning, you can do it with the hand control.
Sick bro !and you seem hella smart you should get a career in these things !
Young people being industrious. Awesome!!!!🤘👏👏👏
Cost? Range before needing a charge?
Great video! I really appreciate the detail you went into on the electronics. Look forward to the improvements and updates.
Nice build! Throw those drill bits away and get you some good bits, you’ll be amazed at the difference!!
Very cool! When I was a kid in the early 70’s I had a gas mini bike just like this and the gas tank was positioned front of the seat mounted under the top portion of the frame, you might want to put your battery box there for a more retro look. 😎
Thanks!
About the brake, drill 1-2 holes in the moving arm , lower to the tilting point, space them aprox. 1\4" or 10mm
cool build I think im gonna try a build like this but probably replace the back wheel with a wheel hub motor.
very smart and takes out a lot of the headache
Loosen mechanism clamp screw. Pull mechanism forward til it engages then back up til its free again and the tighten clamp screw. Then use the adjustment on the cable to fine tune it.
this looks great and I have been talking about doing a doodlebug e build for a while. this is cool AF
11:03 you need to spray the drilling area with lubricant. More friction = dull blade. Less friction ➡️ less heat ➡️ bit stays sharper longer and cuts faster.
This is SUCH a badass project! I love it. I'm gonna try it, but see if I can do a custom frame.
Would love to see that custom frame! Will save you some money for sure
I would like to see you build a 26" wheel recumbent please. You do a great job teaching us. Thanks.
Or a 30" fat tire bike!
Careful with analog ADC inputs, they can go full throttle if the cable breaks. "A pull-down resistor between ADC and GND should be enough. A value of e.g. 10k should work." I'd also recommend putting a bearing on the other side of that motor shaft and stabilizing it so you don't break the motor. The VESC 6 Firmware and tool were just released, upgrade if you haven't already.
How much did you pay for everything in this project?
I’m planing on putting a golf cart engine in a power wheels with suspension
golf carts are ev powerd not gas,lol
use a predator 212 there only 100$ and way smaller and faster
@@Jozavenue ahhh you do realize there are gas powered and EV powered golf carts right.
I will follow your journey!I hope someday you can travel from Nebraska to Aspen with it! 🤘🙂
you can tighten the cable buy pushing the drum break leaver in a bit and retightening it on to the cable or you can slacken the right nut till its all around half way or 75% of the shaft pull the cable back and tighten the left nut if its too tight just slacken the left nut off and tighten the right nut up
Great teacher, I hope i can learn more from you thank you sir.
Great job guys be safe
you should use a plastic or copper hammer for hitting the axel , or put the nut on first , or you risk damaging the threads
21:00. I agree drive trians always the hardest part of building a motor powered vehicle
Good job guys, yall should 1. Buy a grinder
2. Buy a cheap welder even a stick welder would work.
Those nuts on the brake assembly by the cable are jam nuts and both should go on the hand brake side of the assembly. That should help with your brake adjustment.
You forgot to place the inner spacer between the bearings on both wheels.
Very important detail! Nice catch. Bearings will burn out fast without them
@@mapquestHs with the tools they have ,is like the socks they were.
Here before it blows up 99k views
This is super cool!!!!!! I want one!!!!!!😁 the problem with the brake is that it's a drum....
Excelente trabajo 👌👍. Saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷🤗
I'm a bit late to the punch on this, but here's hlw you adjust the brakes, this goes for all types of line brakes, drum, linear pull, or disc:
Cable tension. That's it, no frills, no nuance. The lever pulls the cable, then the cable pulls the mechanism, the mechanism pushes the pad to the brake surface. Even the adjustment system that confused you guys so much, is just another part of that; the adjustment just pushes the cable sleeving back, forcing the internal cable to take a longer path (thus increasing tension). You start by getting a feel for how much play the lever that it pulls has, then you pull the lever to the point where it's close to braking, but not. Then you thread the cable in, and pull it taut, tightening it down in that position. The brakes should work pretty much immediately, but they might be either a bit loose, or a bit tight, so use the adjustment screws as necessary to tune it. Not only is the screw at the end for adjustment, but the slotted screw/nut pair right on the lever are also for adjustment; the screw itself for tension, and the nut to screw into the base of the lever to provide cross-thread torque to hold it. As you keep riding, you might find that you have to readjust these occasionally as the brake pads wear down, that is normal. That is everything you need to know to be able to tune your brakes, applying those tips should solve your issues figuring it out.
As for the eBike side of things, it definitely works, but it's very jank. Maybe consider buying a high power front hub motor, and get it to a bike shop to get a good fat tire rim spoked onto it and trued. Not only will that give better results and speed than the skateboard motor, but it will save you a ton of space in the frame to overbuild a battery, and you can probably fit a disc brake onto the hub in place of the drum, which gives you both the brake cooling advantage, and the advantage to apply visual learning onto your brake tuning, by being able to look down the side and seeing how twisting the mechanism squeezes the pad into the brake, then the brake into the other pad. Though, it'll be a jank installation getting the caliper into position for sure. Worth considering though.
If you put tape on the otherside of the motor shaft and put a bottle over it you’ll get some old Skool motor bike sounds 😜
That's a lot for a frame that runs on such a simple turning concept. But the concept of being low to the ground is kind of cool I think. One thing I don't like when riding on ice in the winter is being so high up because it can really hurt when you fall. The design of this type of bike also makes it easy to repair yourself and things on this, like wheels will last much longer than bike wheels.
Great video, little tip* if you use engine coolant when drilling through steel.. difference is night/day. Fantastic job on the video
Thanks!
this is very interesting, and very thorough. It appears to be doing an electric minibike coming from an RC background, instead of an electric scooter background. Do you realize how much 7000 watts is? That's about 9 hp! Long ago I rode a minibike powered by a Mcculloch go-kart engine (which probably put out around 9 hp) and it absolutely hauled ass! But to get 7000 watts out of your motor, you would need a 14s battery (about 59 volts) that could put out 120 amps - and that would cost an arm and a leg! This electric thing is very interesting, and I'm sure eventually it will completely supersede gas engines, but at present, the only advantage I can see is that it is non-polluting, and quiet (good for mobility scooters, anyway) You can buy a 50cc pocket bike engine on ebay for a little over $50 that would be easier to install, go faster, and not require an expensive and limited-life battery. Maybe some people like their vehicles quiet, but a minibike? Who cares?
This was great and informative you guys went From eboards to mini bikes awesome.
What about the front sprocket on the motor? Did that come with the bike frame? With the motor? How did you mount it to the motor?
Also, how do you know when the chain is the right tension?
It was bought separately. It is mounted to the motor using a keyway and set screw. Chain tension was trial and error
Very cool
A simple easy to build project.....👍👍
A popriveted battery and electronic box with a fan would be cool...
I like that rim makes for easy tube or tyre change
Cool! I want to build one for my grand kids!
you pull he cable untill its tight and you pull he break untill just before it initiates the breaking. then you adjust with the screw till you are happy with the breaking
I respect how much information you gave not only did you build it you also gave clear instructions well done
That ESC is 80A cont with 150A peak. Battery is probably putting out no more than 50A at 38V? So your 8kW motor is running less than 2kW. Motor is only rated for 14S, so you'll need a bunch of amps. Are you going to go with LiPos?
Motor can do 14s
How many amps are you currently pushing with this configuration?
They are nowhere near 7000 or 8000 watts. 8000 watts will dump you on your ass with that gearing and or do a wheelie to 22mph. At least when they eventually make big electric power they will get that e-acceleration rush we all love so much.
@@kevinsellsit5584 i actually had a very powerful bike around 8000 watts i would do a wheelie didnt matter if i putted my weight on the back or on the front
@@kevinsellsit5584 Yes, judging by their description, I would say they're around 1 kW, maybe 1,5 with an unoptimised gear ratio.
Great video, love diy electric vehicles! One thing though, those are bolts, not screws.
If it could be folded like a folding bike, it would be awesome.
He hits a tree with it and it'll fold right up.
It'll look dorky ad fuck
Hope you got the brakes working. It's really easy actually. Just pull the lever on the brake drum until it's almost fully loaded before tightening it down. You will need to adjust once in a while due to brake wear. This is done with the first threaded tube you screwed in. Loosen on back nut and turn the threaded tube counter clockwise to back it out(towards the front of the bike) once adjusted rrtighten the nuts on each side.
You ever heard of Stanley Meyer? Or Moses West? I think both of their inventions, if combined, would be an industry KILLER! Self refueling water car ? Worth looking into...
Starting to see these all over my city .
Mini bikes?
Need an update with the 12s battery! Been on the fence about buying this motor for a while now :)
Watch the update video!: ruclips.net/video/lidW69cRnZM/видео.html
Hows the acceleration? If i wanted to convert a kids dirt bike to electric could this compare to like a 10hp engine?
Acceleration is pretty crazy, but I'm not sure how it compares to a 10hp engine
great video. I had a mini bike as a kid and I loved it. I've seen complete gasoline powered mini bikes for half the price of your frame sold on Black Friday at tractor supply Co. you could pick one of those up and modify it using your shown electric parts, cutting your overall costs significantly.
Put the rear axle bolt in from the opposite side, you won't have to hold as much stuff while you're lining it all up.
Thanks for the tip!
I have just got in to e scooters and this thing is cool it’s almost identical to the mini steezer scooter in aus
The link shows your motor produces 17Nm of torque. I use a Bafang BBSHD for my ebike, which can produce 160Nm and 1500W peak when used on 14S, pulling 30A from the batteries (modest for 14S3P or 4P packs using 18650 cells, if each cell is rated at 10-15A). Even the Bafang 250W produces 80Nm. The motor you've got there is for something with little wheels, like a skateboard, so the low torque is mitigated by small wheels (AKA low gearing) and the high wheel speed produced by the high kW output gives you your speed. 17Nm with that wheel/tyre combo is painful and the motor is going to pull huge amps and still not really be any more powerful, unless you can gear it right down to multiply your torque. You don't see 40 ton trucks with 2000hp engines and 300Nm of torque, you see them with 300hp and 2000Nm of torque, to move the load. Point is, 'power' is not always the amount of kW your motor can output, same as HP figures for cars mean nothing if they aren't match by a decent torque figure - that tyre shredding off the line isn't HP, it's torque.. You might be surprised what a 1kW motor can do putting out 150Nm of torque..
Hope you can make it work and enjoy it - you're right, electric is the future..
bro message me your knowledge brought me into the 21 century thank you from the bottom of my soul
As your break pads wear down you keep tensioning the wire with that adjustment nuts on the break cable. Set it to freewheel just before break contact.
any idea what should i use for a body if my budget is under 50$? (no motors or battery just the body)
And as far as the mechanical break just manually apply the brake then back off a bit until wheel moves freely and adjust the cable accordingly you want the brake pad to essentially float right above the rotor almost like the thickness of a playing card
Holy Sh*t this little guy looks fun!
Why such low range and what cld u do differently to get a longer range? Not criticizing im genuinely interested its super cool and wld like to build if i cld get the range up
battery is under spec'd. Watch the new upgrade video that just came out for more range!
So..... how much range do you get using what size battery? @what speed? =D
Great video! I love how you explain everything
Really nice job on the video, guys! Very clear pictures and the description is concise and complete. Thanks!
Thanks!
Well done !
You have to pull that cable tight & ones it’s tight the thing that the cable goes threw tight that up & then adjust the threaded rod till the brake shoes are just about rubbing the drum.
Great project. Congratulations.
Never use a hard metal hammer on threaded rods (your rear axle). Nylon rawhide or scrap of wood over the axle, and then hit the wood. Otherwise you'll have some messed up threads that won't accept the nuts.
👍 a d.I.y. video worth watching. Thank you!
You should add a 2nd motor and see how double the power affects performance
He could just add more power. That motor is way more powerful he just doesn’t run full because of fear if death.
Start by attaching your brake cable up from the brake lever going all the way down to your brake assembly then adjust it.
very nice job
Holy moly 👍🏻 hell machin
Pull on the brake line with pliars beforeand as you tighten the bolts. The line is probably loose.
Its good, but ya can do any hill with just 350w motor and controller at the same speed and lower battery consumption. Tried my self 😃👍
Fun video hope you get a chain tensioner. Take care
What are the wheels made out of? Is it a solid metal?
It's August 23, 2021... I hope you have more tools, like a drill press, air compressor, and some good air tools. Great video!
some day!
Quick question about the brake. You show the wiring and computer setup...but how's it work?
It's a throttle that when engaged slows down the motor and the rear wheel, regenerating in the process
@@DIYesk8Builders so it's a throttle that is attached to the brake so it acts as a brake. I'm building a go kart, so I'm trying to figure it out...Im using two of the 83100 motors.
Hi, it is basically a negative throttle. It's an electronic brake
You got to love your toy.
7000W ? What is the top speed on that bad boy ?
I have a similar frame with 1800W aliexpress brushless motor setup, the thing will do 50 mph on a 48V setup, but its a death trap.
Im waiting to add front and rear disc brakes before I push it beyond 20-30mph range.
Great part about going electric is you can stay on most bike paths if youre respectful to other traffic.
In this video the power was limited to about 1800W based on the battery specs so the top speed is only about 23 MPH. In our update video we upgrade to a much larger 16s3p 21700 pack so that the bike now tops out at around 35 MPH.
@@DIYesk8Builders still looks like an overrated 7000W. That thing should destroy tires with that much power. Even my mercane wwp with 500W dual motors is a death trap with instant acceleration.
I think you need to check those specs again on the wattage. 7000W is approx 9 hp mechanical. Coleman ct200 bikes with 5hp engines will demolish that thing in speed and power. If you had 9hp electric with the instant torque, you would be doing wheelies. So again nothing wrong with the build, some improvements to be made, silly brackets too long, etc. But 7000W was a good laugh, maybe an extra 0 ? who knows.
Is this seriously a 7kw motor??
So this has the same output as a Stealth Bomber e bike?
This motor doesn't look any different in size to the 250w motor I removed from my 6 year olds electric bike.
I know everything gets better over time and this technology has been around for a while now but is this a 7000w motor?If so please can you tell me where I can get one.Thanks.
We got it from flipsky
A 72 volt brushless motor damn man it will have nice looks and no one will ever know how fast this thing is
Молодец!Хороший получился аппарат!Удачи!
Any other videos with the upgrades, since this video was made??
Just uploaded a trailer this past week and the build video is coming in the next couple of weeks!
Do you think you can put a set of bicycle downhill forks on the front? Not sure what it would take to marry that tube to forks 🤔
Seems like the next logical step lol
probably could modify some
wonder if you could find a small hub motor instead of a separate one and use lower center engine mount for battery
Looks like a baby 250 watt motor. Where did you get 7kw from? My 1000 watt scooter goes 30mph
flipsky.net/collections/e-skateboard/products/brushless-dc-motor-80100-130kv-7000w-for-electric-bike-electric-skateboard-go-cart
These numbers make little to no sense.
130kV is 130,000 Volts! The motor is advertised with max 148A. With these small wires just not possible.
Maybe 25A. Times 36V = 900W.
*Kudos to you young fellow(s).* Keep up the good work.
Pay no attention to the *_know-it-all lardy tails_* that are prompt to criticize others' work but they themselves haven't built shit.
Hi, great project.. if u dont mind to share the details of the electric engine that u are using?
All details for the motor can be found here: flipsky.net/collections/e-skateboard/products/brushless-dc-motor-80100-130kv-7000w-for-electric-bike-electric-skateboard-go-cart