Just did this today… awesome instructions ! Easy to do! Just gotta take it out and make sure all is good. But I sure do appreciate your advice. Thanks from Canada
From 11:34 to 11:36 you give a great view of the most common entry point for mice, the long, thin rectangular opening in the firewall. If you find nesting materials, acorn bits, mouse pee, mouse poo, or other stuff like that on top of your cabin air filter when changing it (behind the glove box) then this slot is what you need to mouse-proof. My daughter and I both have Prius Primes, and we've both had rodent debris make its way to the cabin air filter. She expertly fashioned some 1/4 inch opening wire mesh to fit over that, and we used JB Weld gray steel epoxy stick material to glue it in place. We didn't remove even the plastic cowling completely or the metal one at all, but if we had, the access would have been much easier. As it was, I used a short 2x4 to hold the plastic cowl out of the way, then she set the wire mesh in place, and I jammed pool noodles against it to cure overnight, with the pool noodles basically clamped in place by the plastic cowl. In her car but not mine, they also got in the battery air vents in the rear fenders, making their way into the HV battery area under the hatch/floor. Found it before any damage was done, just a mouse or two took a nap or two there, no nesting. We also found a way to install wire mesh bent into the right 3-D shape over those holes. We duct taped them in place, but need to go back and give them the JB Weld treatment, plus install cheap dashcams as "mouse cams" there and up front.
Worked on my 2016. Thank you!! I added a 5/8 barb to 1/2 npt and capped the old lines, I was getting some bubbling from the one line that still had some coolant in it. Mine took about half gallon to get back to full.
I understand the reason for doing this but many aren't aware that there is a "Technical Service Bulletin" on the heat exchanger/cat. Toyota had to replace mine for free, of course after I argued with them and brought the printout as proof. Then they wanted to charge me for the price of the part, and I said NO, you need to replace everything for free!. Well they did and it took 3 months but they also gave me a new Prius to drive. I don't remember the limit on miles but I know it was covered for 8 years, so I just got it in time on my 2016. It's worth looking into for people.
@@DIYBIGMAN we just bought a 2016 Prius 6 months ago and this is currently happening with our new to us Prius. We’re going to try the bypass because we don’t have the funds for the part and the dealership won’t help nor Toyota and we’re over the 80k miles. Stinks because we even bought an extended warranty and it won’t cover catalytic converters apparently so every way we try no one will help. I wouldn’t be upset if we had the car for years but we haven’t even had it a year. This month is the 6th month and we owe 10k on the car and 5k of that is the stinking extended warranty.
I have the a 2017 non- prime, and I had the same problem at 225k miles. I did a lot of research and learned about this fix , but I was a little nervous about how it would alter the heat dynamics in the combustion chamber , and how this can seriously damage your car if you live in cold weather. You also lose your cabin heater but it doesn't seem like you did. I wouldn't recommend doing this. I bit the bullet and replaced the whole egr and exhaust assembly . $3k. This is the Achilles heel of this particular model year unfortunately. Inwish you luck. I hope the bypass works. Would love to see a future update video as to how this worked out. Not a lot of info about this on the Internet so thank you. ( Note: Im at 230k with original struts. I think you can wait a little longer, unless you notice any rattle/knock when y 2:14 ou hit bunps)
The standard hybrid Prius loses it's cabin heat because it relies on this to warm the coolant to heat the interior. The reason the OP did not lose cabin heat is because the Prime model has an electric heater for the cabin.
@@RobertDodge-r2f It's easier to fix without having to break out the jack, then jack up the car high enough for me to get underneath, then support it, then figure out how to drain the coolant so I can reuse it, then clamp the hoses, then.....yeah. I'll do it under the hood first. But yes, it is certainly possible to do this under the car as well.
Just followed your video to a T this morning. Yesterday I noticed the car draining coolant at a very fast rate, so I’m hoping this is the solution to that problem. Just got the car too. After completing the job I ran it and the coolant still drained from top to bottom twice. After that though it stayed full. Gonna take it out today and hope for the best. Thank you so much for the clear video!
I hope it works for you! It worked great for me. I have no more coolant leak. Let me know later how it runs. It took one or two days of driving to clear out the old coolant.
Did this same thing several months ago, seems to be fine now, not a drop of coolant lost part is on 6 month + back order and I for one am not going to risk a head gasket over the a few extra mins of cool in the winter, for me non prime we are talking it taking maybe an extra min to warm up
I’m uploading another video on proof that the bypass heater exchange works! I hope it helps you out! Check it out it’ll be uploaded today. Don’t forget the thumbs up. Take care!
Great video! Can you tell me if doing this will cause an error code, or impact emissions testing? I live in AZ, and we have to get emissions testing done when we renew tags.
@@Jackiewicz64 I received no codes when the white smoke was coming and after I did the procedure, I still had no codes so I don’t think it affected anything other than bypassing the catalytic converter that was my situation
This is amazing! I went to the body shop because my car was having the exact issue. They told me I needed a new water pump, so I had to pay $900 for a replacement! Supposedly they told me I wouldn’t have any issues with the car, and everything started all over again. I called the body shop and they told me I need to bring it back again and the issue might be the head gasket. After watching your video I am seeing that this might be the main problem! Did you need an extension to remove the bolts that were deeper in the car? I want to get some tools to see if I can go so that way I can fix it myself, but I don’t know if I would need an extension or something. I’m sorry I’m new to all of these things, but I would greatly appreciate it!!
I think a pretty basic tool set is more than enough for this simple job. Just kind of follow the steps that I did in the video. A lot of people think it’s a head gasket issue but it’s really not.
Yes when you rotate and disconnect from the silver pipe as shown it will re route the coolant so it doesn’t go down to the catalytic converter. It will just by pass it. Avoid that
I mean do you really need to disconnect that hose from engine to the plastic part and rotate that plastic part. If i saw it right, direction of coolant flow will change inside of the plastic part, so i am just wondering is that causing some problems with that electric part. I dont know if that is just temperature sensor or something else. Cant you just let hose from engine be like it is and connect hose from cabin to plastic part. I need to do same job in next week and i am not sure what that electric part is, so just wondering why in every video they rotate it. And then direction of flow will change. Hope you understand what i mean.
Just did the same on my 2017 prius non prime. Took two days to burn off the rest of the coolant. Still smell coolant sometimes after a week. But i think its just from those leaks when you disconnect the hoses. Do you need to remove that metal cover to change sparkplugs?
Thanks for watching the video! I was able to burn mine off pretty quick. I drove around for about 30 minutes afterwards and then the next day I drove around for an hour. It was normal after that. no more white smoke no more burning of coolant. Also, you do not need to remove the metal. I’ve shown in my other videos the metal stays on and changing my spark plugs. But if I decide to do my front struts and shocks, I will have to remove it.
The car runs great right now no more problems. It’s been perfect. It even heats up pretty quick still I caught the problem early on so no overheating issues.
I bought a 2017 non prime a someone bypassed it under the car i found it the other day when i turned my defrost on a no heat. Should the heat be working even tho they did it under the car. If i bypass it under the hood like you did will my heat work?
Hey dude, glad I found this video. Unlucky i just bought a used 2016 prius and its got the same problem as yours but you havent update us about hows the the coolant level and everything after the reroute?
Haven't had the time to update in here but it is running great!! No more coolant drainage! Coolant stays at the normal level where it should be and the car runs perfectly normal. I would say the heat exchanger design thing is a piece of crap.
Yes, this worked on my vehicle and it no longer blows white smoke out the exhaust and my coolant levels stay the same. The coolant levels have not changed the car heats up fast enough.
Either way will work. This way leaves no visible evidence of the coolant bypass, unless someone tears apart the cowling to look. Though I doubt that the heating of coolant by the cat is considered a required part of the cat operation, some OCD inspector or state might disagree. If you provide coolant bypass evidence right by the cat, you might find yourself in a dispute with your state over having to replace the cat for no real emissions reason, just to keep it "perfectly stock" in all functions rather than just its actual catalytic converter function. 2023 and up ditched this stupid coolant-heating scheme of running coolant through a heat exchanger in the cat. So, doing the bypass actually upgrades your car to work like a 2023/2024 if anyone complains.
I own a 2019 and bought the "kit" to assemble at heat exchanger. I ALSO bought an OB2 plug in to monitor my ICE temp & my 12v battery ( bc I have a "MousePro" I installed to keep mice out of my engine bay).
can this happen with a 3rd generation. I've replaced EGR, water pump, tested valves. yet it continues to loose coolant with no visible leak. so I am thinking maybe heater core or this... I can't understand why it would loose a gallon a week with not major smoke or puddles.
Want to let you know I got this done at 150k on a 2016 gen 4. Thanks for posting this as my mechanic used it as a guide. How’s it going for you so far? How many miles do you plan to drive w the bypass?
@@DIYBIGMAN i have : coolant leack , white smoke , no heat , no coolant before the catalitic convertor so no egr problem, they showed me a small amount of cooler in the catalitic convertor so i guess this is the problem
I habe a gen 4 . The egr has two pipes , one pipe is connected to the return pipe to the catalytic converter, and i dont know what to do with it because it is spewing coolant from return pipe , can someone guide me plz hoe to do a bypass on 2019 and upwards ,
See? It wasn't so bad. That's such a nice car! I'm so anal, I wash tray out & all the parts dirty. But I realize your heart's in your Honda now. Thanks for the video! I probably would plug those open lines/hoses somehow. Just watch that windshield, they crack REALLY EASY.👍✊️🖖
Double check the work steps. And make sure to have enough coolant. Who knows maybe you do have a head gasket issue. But this has worked for many people so far.
@@DIYBIGMAN Head gasket was the first thing I checked when the white smoke started. 2 Shops said it wasn't a head gasket issue. Maybe have the shop flush my coolant system? Think that would help?
Yeah, all the bubbles need to come out of the piping yours is an interesting situation. I can’t diagnose it over the phone. You’ll have to think through this process.
hi everyone, if anyone can help me out here. i have got toyota prius 2018 100k miles on it. was losing very little coolant so decided to replace the water pump myself with genuine toyota part. after changing the water pump i have to top up coolant a lot. as this is car is used as taxi i top up at least three times a day. no visible leaks, pressure test done but no leaks. in the morning when i open the coolant tank to top up coolant it has air pressure when opening the cap like air trapped inside the system. also i don't see any oil contamination in the system as well. did bleeding as well but still no result. and tbh i have not paid attention if the car produces white smoke. any help is much appreciated.
If my videos help you, especially this one please consider giving me a thumbs 👍 up. Or a $5 super thanks! That way I could buy myself a cup a coffee!
I’m in Canada and they don’t even know what the bulletin is so I just had my mechanic do this quick fix hopefully everything runs smoothly
Let me know how it works out for you!
Just did this today… awesome instructions ! Easy to do! Just gotta take it out and make sure all is good. But I sure do appreciate your advice.
Thanks from Canada
You’re very welcome! I’m glad I can help. :-)
From 11:34 to 11:36 you give a great view of the most common entry point for mice, the long, thin rectangular opening in the firewall.
If you find nesting materials, acorn bits, mouse pee, mouse poo, or other stuff like that on top of your cabin air filter when changing it (behind the glove box) then this slot is what you need to mouse-proof. My daughter and I both have Prius Primes, and we've both had rodent debris make its way to the cabin air filter. She expertly fashioned some 1/4 inch opening wire mesh to fit over that, and we used JB Weld gray steel epoxy stick material to glue it in place. We didn't remove even the plastic cowling completely or the metal one at all, but if we had, the access would have been much easier. As it was, I used a short 2x4 to hold the plastic cowl out of the way, then she set the wire mesh in place, and I jammed pool noodles against it to cure overnight, with the pool noodles basically clamped in place by the plastic cowl.
In her car but not mine, they also got in the battery air vents in the rear fenders, making their way into the HV battery area under the hatch/floor. Found it before any damage was done, just a mouse or two took a nap or two there, no nesting. We also found a way to install wire mesh bent into the right 3-D shape over those holes. We duct taped them in place, but need to go back and give them the JB Weld treatment, plus install cheap dashcams as "mouse cams" there and up front.
Mice suck. I have to treat my property with mice traps and peanut butter. Most I caught when I first moved here was about 100 mice in a month. Lol
Worked on my 2016. Thank you!! I added a 5/8 barb to 1/2 npt and capped the old lines, I was getting some bubbling from the one line that still had some coolant in it. Mine took about half gallon to get back to full.
Nice!
I understand the reason for doing this but many aren't aware that there is a "Technical Service Bulletin" on the heat exchanger/cat. Toyota had to replace mine for free, of course after I argued with them and brought the printout as proof. Then they wanted to charge me for the price of the part, and I said NO, you need to replace everything for free!. Well they did and it took 3 months but they also gave me a new Prius to drive. I don't remember the limit on miles but I know it was covered for 8 years, so I just got it in time on my 2016. It's worth looking into for people.
Yes I agree it is worth fighting for! Wish they engineered this better.
I tried that and had the print out. They kept playing games and basically hiding from me so I would go away. Got fed up and did the bypass.
@@michecy007 hopefully it worked great for you. Sucks they did a stupid catalytic converter bypass that’s useless for our vehicles.
@@DIYBIGMAN we just bought a 2016 Prius 6 months ago and this is currently happening with our new to us Prius. We’re going to try the bypass because we don’t have the funds for the part and the dealership won’t help nor Toyota and we’re over the 80k miles. Stinks because we even bought an extended warranty and it won’t cover catalytic converters apparently so every way we try no one will help. I wouldn’t be upset if we had the car for years but we haven’t even had it a year. This month is the 6th month and we owe 10k on the car and 5k of that is the stinking extended warranty.
@@aprillegg1201 the good thing about this bypass is that it doesn’t cost anything. I hope it helps you out. It’s a very poor engineering design.
I have the a 2017 non- prime, and I had the same problem at 225k miles. I did a lot of research and learned about this fix , but I was a little nervous about how it would alter the heat dynamics in the combustion chamber , and how this can seriously damage your car if you live in cold weather. You also lose your cabin heater but it doesn't seem like you did. I wouldn't recommend doing this. I bit the bullet and replaced the whole egr and exhaust assembly . $3k. This is the Achilles heel of this particular model year unfortunately. Inwish you luck. I hope the bypass works. Would love to see a future update video as to how this worked out. Not a lot of info about this on the Internet so thank you. ( Note: Im at 230k with original struts. I think you can wait a little longer, unless you notice any rattle/knock when y 2:14 ou hit bunps)
I will definitely give you all an update so far so good! Almost at 190k
The standard hybrid Prius loses it's cabin heat because it relies on this to warm the coolant to heat the interior. The reason the OP did not lose cabin heat is because the Prime model has an electric heater for the cabin.
I think you can bypass at the cat under the car much easier.
@@RobertDodge-r2f yes that is true, but I’m not a fan of being under my vehicle! Lol
@@RobertDodge-r2f It's easier to fix without having to break out the jack, then jack up the car high enough for me to get underneath, then support it, then figure out how to drain the coolant so I can reuse it, then clamp the hoses, then.....yeah. I'll do it under the hood first. But yes, it is certainly possible to do this under the car as well.
Just followed your video to a T this morning. Yesterday I noticed the car draining coolant at a very fast rate, so I’m hoping this is the solution to that problem. Just got the car too. After completing the job I ran it and the coolant still drained from top to bottom twice. After that though it stayed full. Gonna take it out today and hope for the best. Thank you so much for the clear video!
I hope it works for you! It worked great for me. I have no more coolant leak. Let me know later how it runs. It took one or two days of driving to clear out the old coolant.
I bypassed it at the converter heat works fine.
@@michaelclemons1527 good to know, thanks for sharing!
Did you just use a U at the cat?
Did this same thing several months ago, seems to be fine now, not a drop of coolant lost part is on 6 month + back order and I for one am not going to risk a head gasket over the a few extra mins of cool in the winter, for me non prime we are talking it taking maybe an extra min to warm up
Nice, glad this process worked out for you and I agree there is not much of a delay in heating up. I’m gonna leave mine like this for long as I can.
Fix went faster than thought. Did not have to disconnect the wire on the elbow. Start to Completion. 2. 1/2 hrs
Awesome! Glad it worked out well for you!
You gave me hope mate
I’m uploading another video on proof that the bypass heater exchange works! I hope it helps you out! Check it out it’ll be uploaded today. Don’t forget the thumbs up. Take care!
@@DIYBIGMANcould you also share the link of that bypass elbow thing
No parts are needed. All you’re doing is moving the hoses around with the existing parts@@KonstantinNazarov-o2h
No parts are needed. All you’re doing is moving the hoses around with existing parts@@KonstantinNazarov-o2h
@@DIYBIGMAN thanks for explaining man fingers crossed
Great video, good job! Hopefully it is fixed.
So far so good I drove it today for an hour or two no more white smoke!
Great video! Can you tell me if doing this will cause an error code, or impact emissions testing? I live in AZ, and we have to get emissions testing done when we renew tags.
@@Jackiewicz64 I received no codes when the white smoke was coming and after I did the procedure, I still had no codes so I don’t think it affected anything other than bypassing the catalytic converter that was my situation
This is amazing! I went to the body shop because my car was having the exact issue. They told me I needed a new water pump, so I had to pay $900 for a replacement! Supposedly they told me I wouldn’t have any issues with the car, and everything started all over again. I called the body shop and they told me I need to bring it back again and the issue might be the head gasket. After watching your video I am seeing that this might be the main problem! Did you need an extension to remove the bolts that were deeper in the car? I want to get some tools to see if I can go so that way I can fix it myself, but I don’t know if I would need an extension or something. I’m sorry I’m new to all of these things, but I would greatly appreciate it!!
I think a pretty basic tool set is more than enough for this simple job. Just kind of follow the steps that I did in the video. A lot of people think it’s a head gasket issue but it’s really not.
Hi. Can you tell why you rotate that plastic part, when you do that bybass. What is reason for it?
Yes when you rotate and disconnect from the silver pipe as shown it will re route the coolant so it doesn’t go down to the catalytic converter. It will just by pass it. Avoid that
I mean do you really need to disconnect that hose from engine to the plastic part and rotate that plastic part.
If i saw it right, direction of coolant flow will change inside of the plastic part, so i am just wondering is that causing some problems with that electric part. I dont know if that is just temperature sensor or something else. Cant you just let hose from engine be like it is and connect hose from cabin to plastic part.
I need to do same job in next week and i am not sure what that electric part is, so just wondering why in every video they rotate it. And then direction of flow will change.
Hope you understand what i mean.
Good question I just know that what I did works perhaps rearranging it made it connect easier because of the angles.
Just did the same on my 2017 prius non prime. Took two days to burn off the rest of the coolant. Still smell coolant sometimes after a week. But i think its just from those leaks when you disconnect the hoses. Do you need to remove that metal cover to change sparkplugs?
Thanks for watching the video! I was able to burn mine off pretty quick. I drove around for about 30 minutes afterwards and then the next day I drove around for an hour. It was normal after that. no more white smoke no more burning of coolant. Also, you do not need to remove the metal. I’ve shown in my other videos the metal stays on and changing my spark plugs. But if I decide to do my front struts and shocks, I will have to remove it.
My 2016 needs the same mod. I’ll follow your instructions. Do you notice any overheating issues?
The car runs great right now no more problems. It’s been perfect. It even heats up pretty quick still I caught the problem early on so no overheating issues.
Thank you VERY much! Your tutorial is extremely cool. 👍
I bought a 2017 non prime a someone bypassed it under the car i found it the other day when i turned my defrost on a no heat. Should the heat be working even tho they did it under the car. If i bypass it under the hood like you did will my heat work?
Does it not get hot after you drive around for 10 minutes?
@DIYBIGMAN no I drive it to work everyday
It looks like the way they got it the line is kinda crimped they give me a picture of it
I got a picture of it looks like its cramped too me. Maybe that why
Wonder what else wrong with it.
Hey dude, glad I found this video. Unlucky i just bought a used 2016 prius and its got the same problem as yours but you havent update us about hows the the coolant level and everything after the reroute?
It fixed my problem. No more coolant loss or white smoke. It’s a good fix
@@DIYBIGMAN really thanks for the quick reply! I will try this today, thanks!
@@lengxiong6011 let me know how it goes! You’ll take a long drive to clear out the old coolant, but after that, it was all good
Haven't had the time to update in here but it is running great!! No more coolant drainage! Coolant stays at the normal level where it should be and the car runs perfectly normal. I would say the heat exchanger design thing is a piece of crap.
@@lengxiong6011 awesome glad it worked
Did you insulate the hose system? Does changing the T-piece solve the problem?
Yes, this worked on my vehicle and it no longer blows white smoke out the exhaust and my coolant levels stay the same. The coolant levels have not changed the car heats up fast enough.
@@DIYBIGMAN Thanks for answering. But I can use a new "T" and not reverse the hose system. Does this solve the problem?
May I ask why you chose this method rather than installing a U shaped piece of rubber at the catalytic converter heat exchanger?
That’s true that is another option but I didn’t want to lift my vehicle and I saw others use this method as well. Plus I didn’t have to buy any parts.
Either way will work. This way leaves no visible evidence of the coolant bypass, unless someone tears apart the cowling to look. Though I doubt that the heating of coolant by the cat is considered a required part of the cat operation, some OCD inspector or state might disagree. If you provide coolant bypass evidence right by the cat, you might find yourself in a dispute with your state over having to replace the cat for no real emissions reason, just to keep it "perfectly stock" in all functions rather than just its actual catalytic converter function. 2023 and up ditched this stupid coolant-heating scheme of running coolant through a heat exchanger in the cat. So, doing the bypass actually upgrades your car to work like a 2023/2024 if anyone complains.
I own a 2019 and bought the "kit" to assemble at heat exchanger. I ALSO bought an OB2 plug in to monitor my ICE temp & my 12v battery ( bc I have a "MousePro" I installed to keep mice out of my engine bay).
I agree. Sometimes the dmw inspector use a mirror to look at catalytic converters and mufflers. So far runs great!
Geeze emissions testing sucks.. thankfully I don't have to test and my 2017 Prime has yet to exhibit this issue.
Thanks!
You’re very welcome thank you!
can this happen with a 3rd generation. I've replaced EGR, water pump, tested valves. yet it continues to loose coolant with no visible leak. so I am thinking maybe heater core or this... I can't understand why it would loose a gallon a week with not major smoke or puddles.
Not sure but it is worth exploring and seeing if they have a similar setup.
Want to let you know I got this done at 150k on a 2016 gen 4. Thanks for posting this as my mechanic used it as a guide. How’s it going for you so far? How many miles do you plan to drive w the bypass?
Should be fine to drive forever but will update you if anything changes it runs and heats up just fine so far! Glad the fix helps you out!
@@DIYBIGMAN thanks dude! Are you using anything to monitor? I’m thinking of buying a blue driver OBD2 port to monitor engine temp.
@@sheeves4444 let me know how that works out! Just plan to drive it til the wheels fall off! Lol will do a cvt oil change soon.
My 2017 prius occasionally smells like somebody's pissing on a hot exhaust system. I'm assuming.
This is coolant leaking on or in the exhaust pipe.
Yes that’s what it smells like. Lol. Its unfortunately a common problem
DId the car throw any error codes and/or did the check engine light come on? Also, is the bypass a permanent fix??
No codes. I just saw white smoke and my coolant levels go lower. It’s a permanent fix and now runs great!
Wouldn't it have been easier using a U at the cat?
Yes you can. I just didn’t want to get under the car. And I didn’t haven’t to buy any parts.
You’re very Welcome!
185.000 miles , i have this problem on my corolla 2019 after 43.000 miles . And in romania you can change this on warranty only in the first 3 years
@@popescuandrei184 I wonder if it’s same problem? Is yours a hybrid?
@@DIYBIGMAN yes it is hybrid same problem i went to the dealer they want me to change the entire exhaust system.
Good to know!
@@DIYBIGMAN i have : coolant leack , white smoke , no heat , no coolant before the catalitic convertor so no egr problem, they showed me a small amount of cooler in the catalitic convertor so i guess this is the problem
@@popescuandrei184 hope it goes well
I habe a gen 4 . The egr has two pipes , one pipe is connected to the return pipe to the catalytic converter, and i dont know what to do with it because it is spewing coolant from return pipe , can someone guide me plz hoe to do a bypass on 2019 and upwards ,
Well, look inside your engine. If it looks like mine then my bypass may work. I don’t know.
See? It wasn't so bad. That's such a nice car! I'm so anal, I wash tray out & all the parts dirty. But I realize your heart's in your Honda now. Thanks for the video! I probably would plug those open lines/hoses somehow. Just watch that windshield, they crack REALLY EASY.👍✊️🖖
Yes, I'd try to plug the open lines too.Good video.
Yeah lucky it wasn’t hard and didn’t have to buy new parts. lol
I completed the by pass but the car is now overheating. I have filled the container about 3 times in total. Any ideas why?
Double check the work steps. And make sure to have enough coolant. Who knows maybe you do have a head gasket issue. But this has worked for many people so far.
@@DIYBIGMAN Head gasket was the first thing I checked when the white smoke started. 2 Shops said it wasn't a head gasket issue. Maybe have the shop flush my coolant system? Think that would help?
Yeah, all the bubbles need to come out of the piping yours is an interesting situation. I can’t diagnose it over the phone. You’ll have to think through this process.
If struts aren't leaking leave them. Im at 275k with factory front struts. Did rear shocks at 120k
I agree. Mine leaked in back however. Fronts still ok. I think I ruined them by loading up too much stone pavers. Lol.
@@DIYBIGMAN I use mine as a service vehicle loaded with tools. Added air bags which helped a bunch.
Ditto.
Where you located
PNW
👍
hi everyone, if anyone can help me out here. i have got toyota prius 2018 100k miles on it. was losing very little coolant so decided to replace the water pump myself with genuine toyota part.
after changing the water pump i have to top up coolant a lot. as this is car is used as taxi i top up at least three times a day. no visible leaks, pressure test done but no leaks. in the morning when i open the coolant tank to top up coolant it has air pressure when opening the cap like air trapped inside the system. also i don't see any oil contamination in the system as well. did bleeding as well but still no result. and tbh i have not paid attention if the car produces white smoke. any help is much appreciated.
You probably have the same problem my Prius have.
I would recommend you try this method if you haven’t done so
@@DIYBIGMAN thanks brother, I’ll give it a go and give an update here once done. Hopefully that sorts out the problem.
Problem fixed. This method u show works perfectly.
Thanks again mate.
@@DARI-FARSI-TRADERawesome!
No it doesn't heat up I drive it too work everyday
Might be other unknown issues.
Im hoping that hose they used is cramped im hoping that why it's not warm.
I just posted another video today showing proof that the heater works using my bypass. My heater temp gets above 100.
So I guess you’re not getting any heater in the car? Since the cat is supposed to warm up your whole car? lol
Car heats up just fine. Not much of a delay.