Great video and series. I just bought an identical bike. This is going to help me with maintenance a ton; so many thanks. Sorry to find out you've sold it since. I am actually getting more and more into off-roading since I got the KLR. After riding streets for over 20 years, this little bike has opened up a whole new world of riding for me. Thanks again.
don't stop to upload videos of klr 250. i follow every single video, i'm about to buy one. and i need all the possible information of that bike . i love tha bike ! greetings from chile ! my friend !
yo i just bought a kl250 last week so i was watching videos and yours are awesome. Then i noticed you live in mass. and the cape bumper sticker lol. we're practically neighbors haha. I live in Plymouth :)
I think the reason the original jetting was so tame was for Kawasaki to meet emissions standards. Plus, the earlier model camshafts produced bucket-loads more power than the later (mid 90s) models. Pls correct me if I've got this wrong.... :-)
When changing your oil filter, that hollow stem the filter slides over also comes out I believe? Looks exactly the same as my 95 klx 650 was? Anyway, if yours does, there's an o-ring on the end of it that should be checked periodically and replaced if necessarily. Mine NORMALLY came off with the filter each time I changed the oil. Mine also had an o-ring on the cover plate that needed to be checked every once in awhile too??
If your KLR is an overhead cam, which I believe it is, another thing you should check on your bike since you've just recently bought it, is the automatic cam chain adjuster/tentioner (if it's an overhead cam) Make sure it's working properly or just to be safe, swap it out with a manual cam chain adjuster.
Yours may be different but sure looks exactly like mine. My regular owners manual didn't mention it either but when I bought the service manual for my bike, that did.... If yours does come out, it may just be stuck in there if the bike sat for a while of hadn't had the oil changed for a long period of time before you bought it???
Like I said, "yours may be different". It sure looks just the same as mine though. Can't see that stem being permanently fastened in there though. Who knows, maybe it is?? Just thought I'd mention it because it looks just like mine and my manual said to check it periodically...
slappy valves cause them to wear out a lot quicker and can cause damage. I'm not saying you can't do it because you can just saying be sure if you are planning on doing that, but that is my opinion from experience i have had with it. cheers
Yeah you don't want them too slappy. lol I was just saying if you had to put them into the adjustment keep them within spec but towards the looser side if you can, just a tiny bit, because they will get tighter over time!
Umm, my tool set is very basic, messy, and disorganized lol. I recommend to go to harbor freight, or amazon, and just order a bunch of metric tools. Sockets, open end wrenches, Allan keys, etc. Then you will also want to get a torque wrench, breaker bar, needle nose pliers, vice grips, screw drivers, hammer, etc. There are so many tools and unfortunately you will end up needing to use most of them if you work on your bike a lot. If on a budget I would just get a socket set and allan key set, Metric of course.
What's up brotha!! I have a 89 klr 250 and something is wrong with my wiring. When I turn my handle bars right and left the lights come on, but when I keep it straight ahead no lights are on and nothing electrical works. What could be the problem?
Loose wire, mine did the same thing. There's a red box with a bunch of wires going into them near the headlight fairing. You gotta push them in more and tape them up.
I have a Kawasaki 250 klr too but it won't start it gives one bang if you kickstart it you smell te exhaust gasses so I know it ignites but it wont run so can anybody help me
+RC Sport - Check valve clearance if they don't close properly not only they will burn the valve seats but also create starting issues. Check also electrical connections/ground, spark plug and ignition coil.
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video and series. I just bought an identical bike. This is going to help me with maintenance a ton; so many thanks. Sorry to find out you've sold it since. I am actually getting more and more into off-roading since I got the KLR. After riding streets for over 20 years, this little bike has opened up a whole new world of riding for me. Thanks again.
This video helped me with my valve job, thanks for the insight!
Glad to hear!
don't stop to upload videos of klr 250. i follow every single video, i'm about to buy one. and i need all the possible information of that bike . i love tha bike ! greetings from chile ! my friend !
+FelipeAndr3s thanks brother! More videos to come :)
You didn't check the fuel screw?
Keep up the good work man, she is coming along nicely :)
Also, hi from Australia
+Mitchell Campbell thanks! :)
So in order to change the spark plug you need to remove the seat and the gasoline reservoir?
yo i just bought a kl250 last week so i was watching videos and yours are awesome. Then i noticed you live in mass. and the cape bumper sticker lol. we're practically neighbors haha. I live in Plymouth :)
Hello, I was wondering how you managed to get the carb off the bike? I have been unable to find a video of this anywhere
Whats the yellow wire at 3:50 next to the spark plug?
Did you mess with the air/fuel screw at all?
she's coming along brobro
+Crazy Frog Moto thanks brotha
I think the reason the original jetting was so tame was for Kawasaki to meet emissions standards. Plus, the earlier model camshafts produced bucket-loads more power than the later (mid 90s) models. Pls correct me if I've got this wrong.... :-)
+philr300 - That's correct I still have an original KLR 250 28/29hp don't recall precisely. But can tell the motor is a little jewel. ;-)
You're like my one shining hope to get my klr250 running. No one else really covers this topic in this detail. I'm so lost
i am adjusting the valves on mine, how bad is the tick when it runs i think i might have to adjust mine more but it does have a large tick now
So shimming the needle what did that do? And changing the jet, give it more power? How much power alone was done by just shimming the needle.
SBCTrailRides I have the same question
you have the stock air filter?
it worked nice with the washer and the 128 main jet combined?
Did you redo your videos? I remember you talking in the videos about what your doing?
That link to the thin walled wrench socket no longer works, could you give me the name of the one you used so I could find it? Thanks
What was your source for the new jets?
When changing your oil filter, that hollow stem the filter slides over also comes out I believe? Looks exactly the same as my 95 klx 650 was? Anyway, if yours does, there's an o-ring on the end of it that should be checked periodically and replaced if necessarily. Mine NORMALLY came off with the filter each time I changed the oil.
Mine also had an o-ring on the cover plate that needed to be checked every once in awhile too??
If your KLR is an overhead cam, which I believe it is, another thing you should check on your bike since you've just recently bought it, is the automatic cam chain adjuster/tentioner (if it's an overhead cam) Make sure it's working properly or just to be safe, swap it out with a manual cam chain adjuster.
+Tom Kuhlman huh the manual didn't mention that. I'll double check next time I change the oil. Thanks!
Yours may be different but sure looks exactly like mine. My regular owners manual didn't mention it either but when I bought the service manual for my bike, that did.... If yours does come out, it may just be stuck in there if the bike sat for a while of hadn't had the oil changed for a long period of time before you bought it???
Tom Kuhlman I have a service manual, I don't recall seeing it, i'll check it out again though, i'm sure you're right.
Like I said, "yours may be different". It sure looks just the same as mine though. Can't see that stem being permanently fastened in there though. Who knows, maybe it is?? Just thought I'd mention it because it looks just like mine and my manual said to check it periodically...
I have a klr 250 l love it I like ur better
+Hoseph Cook thanks buddy! :) I really like the bike.
Hey can I have ur phone number so we can talk
wtf lmao
slappy valves cause them to wear out a lot quicker and can cause damage. I'm not saying you can't do it because you can just saying be sure if you are planning on doing that, but that is my opinion from experience i have had with it. cheers
Yeah you don't want them too slappy. lol I was just saying if you had to put them into the adjustment keep them within spec but towards the looser side if you can, just a tiny bit, because they will get tighter over time!
Saw your comment on motonositys build 4 and now im subscribed to you so sup
That's awesome! Thanks for checking me out :) Motonosity's build is insaneeee, I'm really enjoying that series.
+HEROrr fr and np
What size is the spark plug socket the link isn’t working
Says not to overtighten
*PROCEEDS TO TIGHTEN SO HARD HE SHAKES*
How many miles did it have?
How do you build your tool set? I'm starting from absolute scratch and would like to have a specific set.
Umm, my tool set is very basic, messy, and disorganized lol. I recommend to go to harbor freight, or amazon, and just order a bunch of metric tools. Sockets, open end wrenches, Allan keys, etc. Then you will also want to get a torque wrench, breaker bar, needle nose pliers, vice grips, screw drivers, hammer, etc. There are so many tools and unfortunately you will end up needing to use most of them if you work on your bike a lot. If on a budget I would just get a socket set and allan key set, Metric of course.
great vid nice job
Thanks :)
Awesome
that's got dual overhead cams
do you need a new top end gasket after removing it to adjust the valves?
Only if you tear it, in my case I didn't :)
+HEROrr nice
hard to find camshafts, mine on my 1985 are pitted
What's up brotha!! I have a 89 klr 250 and something is wrong with my wiring. When I turn my handle bars right and left the lights come on, but when I keep it straight ahead no lights are on and nothing electrical works. What could be the problem?
Loose wire, mine did the same thing. There's a red box with a bunch of wires going into them near the headlight fairing. You gotta push them in more and tape them up.
BAZOOKA JAY No
What year bike is this?
very enjoyable :)
Thanks :)
@5:30 you blurred the bike plate but not the pickup.
Good video :)
Thanks :)
How much did you sell it for?
have a nice day forgot
I would not recommend putting as much torque on the drain bolt + pil filter bolts. The spec is 16.5ft-lbs and 43IN-LBS for the filter bilts.. ouch
Kyle Woznick what oil filter did you use??
@@athwakely9538 i used KN-123
I have a Kawasaki 250 klr too but it won't start it gives one bang if you kickstart it you smell te exhaust gasses so I know it ignites but it wont run so can anybody help me
Check the kill switch, also buy a compression tester.
Oké thx
+RC Sport - Check valve clearance if they don't close properly not only they will burn the valve seats but also create starting issues. Check also electrical connections/ground, spark plug and ignition coil.
oké thx man
Just purchased one and wanted some info...I learned that I am a much better mechanic than you - thanks for sharing...
deja vu i had a klr 250 lol
Awesome bike! What happened to it?
sold her for a rm125
They stole my spark plug wrench. Anything but that. Be careful not to over tighten.
You can buy another one here! amzn.to/292ADtn
maby we can get in contact and ride
+Hoseph Cook send me a message over on Facebook herorr
i hate carbs...the food kind
mmmm save that for later
Can i get noticed? :P
I see ya! :)
***** LOLL! :D