You are the first person who knows how to teach and explain correctly. The person who does not learn with you is better to change for something else. Thanks for everything.
Thanks Kendall for the kind comment and stay tuned as I'll be doing one on a dishwasher where it will get a little involved. Much more so that you typically will see. Have a great New Year!
Great thorough video. I've fixed several of these timers because the replacement timers often cost more than the dryer is worth. If you stop the video at 59:26, you'll see that there is a retaining ring pressed around the shaft that holds the cover to the shaft and cam. You can spread that retaining ring out a bit and remove it from the shaft. This will allow you to lift the cover without lifting the shaft and cam. The lever placement on the cam is critical, so it's best not to lift it out. I believe that the contacts are a silver alloy. The flexible copper arms/levers have a hole punched in them and the contacts are pressed into the copper. After years of use the hole in the copper will wear and the contact will become loose. This will increase resistance and cause extremely high heat at the contact, which will eventually fall out of the copper arm. Most of the ones I've fixed, I've found the loose contact laying inside the housing. I remove the copper arm from the housing, place the contact back in position and mushroom the back of the contact a bit with a small hammer. I then solder the back of the contact to the copper. I've done several over the last 6 years and haven't had a repeat failure yet. I also once found the same problem inside the centrifugal switch on the motor. When you turned the dryer on, the motor just hummed. The contact had fallen off of the copper arm that powered the start winding.
Thank you for the added info as I'm sure for the ones who reads your comment and implements it will get some added knowledge and save themselves some money. Thanks again and have a great day!
JUST A NOTICE!!! My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working. APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer. I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
Thank you, sir! very educational video which helped determine that also need a timer for my dryer I am a fan of fixing before replacing with a new one. thanks again!
This is probably the most beautiful video I ever saw in RUclips. Wonderful material, but also greatly explained and very educated, the language was also correct and very fluent...very pedagogical.
Excellent content. The only thing ohms can confirm is a bad part. The end of your video about volt drop testing is the best way to understand if a part is good or not.
Excellent video, I learned a lot. I was asked to repair one of these yesterday. Turned out it was just a broken belt and was a bit disappointed. Many thanks.
that schematic seemed simple but was very complicated. another great video Doctor! Terry. Iam a big fan of checking voltage drop, most techs dont understand this concept. You were able to make this repair without parts. but I agree youl did the right thing.
Sorry for the delay as RUclips did not notify me of your comment! I agree with you 100% that older appliances were built much better than today. And that's why we still have our older washer and dryer. Have a great day!
Thx for posting this very helpful video. I just checked to see if a replacement timer is still available for my 35 year old WP dryer & it is not. Used timers are readily available on ebay but there's no telling what condition they'd be in. So I'm going to pull out my timer & do some contact cleaning & try to maximize its life.
This is a very thorough rundown of strategies to troubleshoot appliances using schematics. Thanks for all your work on this presentation! I agree that voltage drops are a much more conclusive way to check not only loads, but controls as well. The drum turned and you smelled the dust burning off the heating element while operating the timer and start button (nice trick, BTW). That tells you those loads and the wires and safeties connecting them were intact. The only thing left is the timer switches. Great video!
The best video I have seen in RUclips,Is because you really care about a person learning,,,,If you can do one showing how to add a start capacitor and run capacitor Thank you so much for the videos
Why are NPC complaining that the video is long? Don't they know how to fast-forward? Why do people believe that we can achieve any purposefulness without sacrifice? I took this vid as a learning tutorial more that mere fleeting entertainment. For it was an opportunity to provide some necessary skills in diagnosing such equipment.
That's wise advice at the end, to vacuum dust and debris from the hose. When the motor has to work harder from inadequate flow, current draw goes up which puts strain on everything.
Thanks Dave for the comment and like the saying goes, take care of the simple things to prevent the bigger things from happening. Have a great evening!
@@stuzman52I agree: cleaning the lint at regular intervals (and especially during the repair since it’s accessible anyway) will not only reduce the risk of fire but also premature failure of the motor through overheating of the windings.
I'd like to try this. My dryer has a digital circuit board instead of the analog timer dial. Is it possible to test a dryer circuit board to see if it is malfunctioning? Tested and replaced all fuses and thermostats. Heat element tests ok No heat???
With any digital circuit board, take a look at the wiring diagram. You want to find all the inputs that's required before some particular output will be generated. As an example for your heater not working, does it have the voltage at the heater? If it doesn't, then most likely it's missing some input that's required. Good luck on your project!
I ordered the thermostats from Amazon. I also ordered the timer from Amazon, but it turns out that the timer was total garbage and I returned it. Since the thermostats were so cheap and of course comes from China, I decided to do another video to check its accuracy. If you would like to see that video, it's located here ruclips.net/video/ps1JLDroo90/видео.html Have a great day!
so i have a whirlpool dryer that the timer advances even when the motor is not running. So based on what I have learned in this video, the one side of the motor is the black 120v wire coming in, the other side in timed dry is the white/black wire, the centrifugal switch on the motor, the push to start switch, and the door switch correct? i have checked the push to start switch for resistance, and it ohmed fine, and the same for the door switch, so I guess that would leave the centrifugal switch right???
Possibly, it could be the centrifugal switch. But refer to your wiring diagram as it may be a little different from mine. You could place your voltmeter leads across the switch and before the motor starts, you should have close to 120VAC. When the motor starts and the switch closes, the voltage should be near 0V.
does it matter it you switch the white and black wire on the clips of the push start button for my estate electric dryer..I forgot which wire went where
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You are the first person who knows how to teach and explain correctly. The person who does not learn with you is better to change for something else. Thanks for everything.
Thank you very much Angel for the kind comment! Have a great day!
Thanks for this. I'm one of those people who wants to understand the theory of operation, not just which part to swap. This hits the sweet spot.
Thanks Kendall for the kind comment and stay tuned as I'll be doing one on a dishwasher where it will get a little involved. Much more so that you typically will see. Have a great New Year!
#1 DIY! Outstanding thorough and comprehensive troubleshooting guide. Got my dryer running. My problem was in the 220v outlet itself. Thank you, Sir!
Glad to hear that you got your dryer working. Have a great New Year!
Great thorough video. I've fixed several of these timers because the replacement timers often cost more than the dryer is worth. If you stop the video at 59:26, you'll see that there is a retaining ring pressed around the shaft that holds the cover to the shaft and cam. You can spread that retaining ring out a bit and remove it from the shaft. This will allow you to lift the cover without lifting the shaft and cam. The lever placement on the cam is critical, so it's best not to lift it out. I believe that the contacts are a silver alloy. The flexible copper arms/levers have a hole punched in them and the contacts are pressed into the copper. After years of use the hole in the copper will wear and the contact will become loose. This will increase resistance and cause extremely high heat at the contact, which will eventually fall out of the copper arm. Most of the ones I've fixed, I've found the loose contact laying inside the housing. I remove the copper arm from the housing, place the contact back in position and mushroom the back of the contact a bit with a small hammer. I then solder the back of the contact to the copper. I've done several over the last 6 years and haven't had a repeat failure yet. I also once found the same problem inside the centrifugal switch on the motor. When you turned the dryer on, the motor just hummed. The contact had fallen off of the copper arm that powered the start winding.
Thank you for the added info as I'm sure for the ones who reads your comment and implements it will get some added knowledge and save themselves some money. Thanks again and have a great day!
JUST A NOTICE!!! My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working.
APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer.
I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
I'm glad to hear that you didn't give up and that your persistence paid off. Keep up the good work and thanks for the comment!
Thank you, sir! very educational video which helped determine that also need a timer for my dryer I am a fan of fixing before replacing with a new one. thanks again!
Glad to hear that the video was helpful! Have a great day!
Lot of work went into making this video. Thank you.
And thank you tubejim101 for watching the video! Have a super great day!
This is probably the most beautiful video I ever saw in RUclips.
Wonderful material, but also greatly explained and very educated, the language was also correct and very fluent...very pedagogical.
Wow, thank you!
Excellent content. The only thing ohms can confirm is a bad part. The end of your video about volt drop testing is the best way to understand if a part is good or not.
I couldn't agree with you more Joe about voltage drop testing. It's the best way to check contacts, switches, etc. than using ohms. Have a great day!
Excellent video, I learned a lot. I was asked to repair one of these yesterday. Turned out it was just a broken belt and was a bit disappointed. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
that schematic seemed simple but was very complicated. another great video Doctor! Terry. Iam a big fan of checking voltage drop, most techs dont understand this concept. You were able to make this repair without parts. but I agree youl did the right thing.
Thank you for the comment and you're correct that a simple concept of voltage drop eludes a lot of folks. Have a great evening!
Old units were reliable, easy to use & inexpensive to fix. I have a 35 year old WP dryer that has only ever needed a new heating element.
Sorry for the delay as RUclips did not notify me of your comment! I agree with you 100% that older appliances were built much better than today. And that's why we still have our older washer and dryer. Have a great day!
Thx for posting this very helpful video. I just checked to see if a replacement timer is still available for my 35 year old WP dryer & it is not. Used timers are readily available on ebay but there's no telling what condition they'd be in. So I'm going to pull out my timer & do some contact cleaning & try to maximize its life.
Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
This is a very thorough rundown of strategies to troubleshoot appliances using schematics. Thanks for all your work on this presentation! I agree that voltage drops are a much more conclusive way to check not only loads, but controls as well. The drum turned and you smelled the dust burning off the heating element while operating the timer and start button (nice trick, BTW). That tells you those loads and the wires and safeties connecting them were intact. The only thing left is the timer switches. Great video!
Thank you Gary and glad you liked the video! Have a super great day!
Great video. You keep teaching and I'll keep trying to learn.
Thank you Richard for the comment and have a great evening!
The best video I have seen in RUclips,Is because you really care about a person learning,,,,If you can do one showing how to add a start capacitor and run capacitor
Thank you so much for the videos
Thank you very much and have a great day!
this is a great instructor and thank you for sharing your knowledge !!!😎
Thank you for watching and for the comment!
I'm korean
Your video very great!
Thank you very much and have a super great day!
Great video. A little long but very informative. Thank you 🙏🏻 sir
Yes, I agree the video is a little long, but wanted to include the most information possible. Have a great day!
Why are NPC complaining that the video is long? Don't they know how to fast-forward? Why do people believe that we can achieve any purposefulness without sacrifice? I took this vid as a learning tutorial more that mere fleeting entertainment. For it was an opportunity to provide some necessary skills in diagnosing such equipment.
Thank you for a very helpful and useful video.
Thank you very much for the comment!
That's wise advice at the end, to vacuum dust and debris from the hose. When the motor has to work harder from inadequate flow, current draw goes up which puts strain on everything.
Thanks Dave for the comment and like the saying goes, take care of the simple things to prevent the bigger things from happening. Have a great evening!
@@stuzman52I agree: cleaning the lint at regular intervals (and especially during the repair since it’s accessible anyway) will not only reduce the risk of fire but also premature failure of the motor through overheating of the windings.
Super video ,thanks!!!!
You are welcome! Have a great day!
I'd like to try this. My dryer has a digital circuit board instead of the analog timer dial. Is it possible to test a dryer circuit board to see if it is malfunctioning? Tested and replaced all fuses and thermostats. Heat element tests ok No heat???
With any digital circuit board, take a look at the wiring diagram. You want to find all the inputs that's required before some particular output will be generated. As an example for your heater not working, does it have the voltage at the heater? If it doesn't, then most likely it's missing some input that's required. Good luck on your project!
Great video. Can you tell us where you purchased those thermostats for $13?
I ordered the thermostats from Amazon. I also ordered the timer from Amazon, but it turns out that the timer was total garbage and I returned it. Since the thermostats were so cheap and of course comes from China, I decided to do another video to check its accuracy. If you would like to see that video, it's located here ruclips.net/video/ps1JLDroo90/видео.html Have a great day!
Great job 👏
Thank you very much and have a great weekend!
so i have a whirlpool dryer that the timer advances even when the motor is not running. So based on what I have learned in this video, the one side of the motor is the black 120v wire coming in, the other side in timed dry is the white/black wire, the centrifugal switch on the motor, the push to start switch, and the door switch correct? i have checked the push to start switch for resistance, and it ohmed fine, and the same for the door switch, so I guess that would leave the centrifugal switch right???
Possibly, it could be the centrifugal switch. But refer to your wiring diagram as it may be a little different from mine. You could place your voltmeter leads across the switch and before the motor starts, you should have close to 120VAC. When the motor starts and the switch closes, the voltage should be near 0V.
Great job
Thanks Leeman!
does it matter it you switch the white and black wire on the clips of the push start button for my estate electric dryer..I forgot which wire went where
No it doesn't matter. You can reverse the wires on the switch and it will still work fine. Have a great day!
Good video
Thanks Terry for the comment and have a great evening!
Genius
Thank you very much and have a great day!
Catamounts..yeah!!
Thanks for the comment!
Try to get error code d5 off of my commercial dryers..saw your shirt..I have a daughter going there
@@timferrell2483 It's a small world for sure Tim! Wishing you and your family a happy Thanksgiving!
Does a bad timer make it just hummm
It's possible. If you have 120VAC to the timer motor and it doesn't advance in the cycle, then it's most likely the timer.
Thanks great vid
Thank you very much and hope you have a great day!