def gauge hack for ram 6.7, how to bypass def gauge and remove 5 mph limitation. Avoid EPA fines.
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2023
- def gauge hack will change gauge from empty to full. Minor circuit modification that is easily reversible. Don't delete your diesel, do this first. EPA fines are hefty. Keep your rig emissions legal.
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Thanks for the video, super helpful. Worked perfectly for my 2018 2500. Mine is 4wd and the cover plate looked different, it's almost round with 2 bolts that need a 13mm socket right under the DEF tank for anyone with a truck like mine. Another bracket partially covered the almost round plate and I had to loosen 2 bolts on it to get the plate back on. Thanks again, I'll manually keep track of DEF level for now and put money elsewhere it needs to go!
You're welcome, I appreciate you sharing the detailed feedback for 4x4 equipped units. Your feedback adds to the value of this video, thanks.
Thanks Christian. This took alot of stress and moneys of my mind. God bless you.
You are very welcome, thanks for watching my video.
Short answer, yes that is correct. However with no def the def system goes offline which compounds into a completely restricted particulate filter which completely obstructs the exhaust system. This is why I mentioned you will have to develop a manual process of confirming a sufficient def fluid level before using the equipment. Many truck owners reading this will ultimately come to the conclusion of modifying the exhaust restriction by way of a "custom" adjustment. That type of adjustment is not the worst idea I've ever heard of, it's just not one that I would recommend.
DEF reduces NOX emissions in the DOC/SCR and has absolutely zero to do with soot load in the DPF. That said, this "hack" is precisely that, a hack job.
folks - after the bypass just keep a log and top off def every 3000 miles - i just paid 1k 7months ago to replace pump / gauge assembly - not doing that again for a tank sensor issue - when the pump fails i will worry about the gage issue -
Worked perfectly! I'm back on the road. Thank you.
You are very welcome. Dude That's awesome!! I made this video and man did it take a lot of work and retakes than I could have ever imagined to hopefully be able to at least help one person. That person is you !! Congratulations on a successful execution of this modification!!!
Excellent video sir! Thank you for the help in advance. I'll let you know how it goes. I have a question at the end of this comment. Man I hope this works tomorrow morning! I'm just a daily driver but left Houston Texas for Pennsylvania to pick up a slide in truck camper weighing over 4,800 lb. Made it all the way from Houston with no problem up to Pennsylvania, hauled the trailer down to Boone North Carolina up into the mountains and then 4 days later when I went to take off I tried slipping into four-wheel drive and think I screwed that up. I have the four WD service light. Then 2 hours later I finally hit one quarter of a tank DEF and stopped at Bucky's to fill that and the diesel tank plum full on both. After I did that I went into the fuse block and pushed down on every fuse to make sure everything was seated and then when I fired up the vehicle I suddenly had a no DEF fluid level and a new check engine light. After I touched All of my fuses with my finger to make sure they were seated, and then noticed the DEF was now showing empty although absolutely 100% plum full, I suddenly got that check engine light. When the DEF is in the zero position does this also kick a yellow constant non-flashing check engine light typically? If so then I get it but I'm not sure if it's related or not because I lost track of the sequence of things since they were happening so quickly. I never ever showed any warning about a reduction in power or anything! It's simply went from a four-wheel drive service alarm and then 2 hours later once I filled up my DEF and diesel, push down on all the fuses and then I actually disconnected both battery negative cables for about 60 seconds. Then and only then did I get this zeroed out DEF and the check engine light
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. If I remember correctly this unit did have the yellow engine indicator illuminated on the dash. Shortly after that the distance until the 5mph warning showed up. As for the concern with the 4x4 engagement I have seen on other lightduty rigs that if your condensation drain for the air conditioning evaporator is restricted or misrouted it can cause issues with any modules that are close to the pooled moisture this concern can cause. Hope this info helps, safe travels.
just hacked mine.. thanks brother
Awesome, glad to have helped. Good job on successfully performing the hack.Thanks for the feedback on the def fluid log idea. I appreciate you sharing your field proven method.
Good video… I understand it’s just a fix for a particular vehicle and so that’s why you indicate the position of the wires at the connector, but to apply this on other applications, I wish you could have identified these wires by what they do. Yes, you did say that it will change the position on the gauge, these will be signal wires, and then what you are doing is connecting them to power? Thank you
Thanks for watching my video. Short answer is yes connecting these two wires is connecting them to power. However the power value in this application is not source voltage( battery voltage). On most automotive applications voltage reference or VREF operates on a range from 0-5 volts. The two circuit names are actually the VREF ckt and SIGRTN ckt. The VREF circuit sends the 5 volt signal to the variable resistor ( def level sensor) and the signal return circuit returns the variant of that 5 volt signal back to the instrument cluster module and that process allows the system to prove out the operational requirements to allow the vehicle to function properly. Depending on the position of the resistor it will send back a corresponding voltage that would align with a programmed position to the gauge on the cluster. Let's assign 5 volts to a completely "full gauge" position and let's say 2.5 volts is a "halfway full" gauge position and everything else incrementally responds in relation to that scale. So because we are connecting these two circuits together we are sending the 5 volt reference signal back to the module (completing the circuit)and that is why the gauge shows completely full on the cluster. I must admit this information actually is in my video but not in the detail I'm sharing with you now. The logic behind that is because I didn't want to spend too much time on the "specifics" because for most individuals these are a lot of details and what's more important to most people is the "process" and not the specifics. Ultimately I figured when someone wants to apply this process to a different vehicle system they would then ask this type of question. So with that said, "Thanks for your question". I know this detailed clarification will allow this video to help more and more people.
Hey I’m having this same issue on a 2016 5500 dodge ram. Is this something I can do on this model truck.
From the resources I checked the only 2016s this will not work on is the ST and the base model. SLT , tradesman and the larime use the same def pump so the harness is a complete match with the 2018 model I serviced here. In the event you have one of the units that is not compatible if you can find the signal return circuit (sign rtn) and voltage reference circuit (Vref) for the def level sender and connect them together it will give you the same result. The gauge will show completely full, if you connect those two circuits together.
I have a 2018 ram Cummins and i hooked 12&13 all together just as your video and it didn’t change the gauge it’s still on empty ?
Possible solutions would be to confirm that the circuits you are connecting are the voltage reference and the signal return for the def level sender. Another possibility is that those same circuits may be disconnected (or broken) somewhere upstream of the repair you've just made. Let me know if this helps. The unit in this video is a 3500 dual rear wheel flat bed style unit. In some cases these specific versions of these trucks are slightly different from non utility bed trucks. Those differences shouldn't affect circuit orientation but unfortunately I cannot confirm it. Just as a "need to mention", make sure you've made the connection between the circuits that return to the instrument cluster and not the circuits that go to the pump.
What would i look for voltage amount for the wires I’m looking for? Best way to put it how do i locate the wires I’m looking for far as what ones need to be repaired?
The regulated voltage for a reference voltage circuit is 5 volts. There is no voltage value for a signal return circuit because it's intended purpose is to return a variation of the 5 volt reference voltage to dictate the liquid level of the def fluid in this case. 5 volts means full and anything less than that corresponds accordingly through the def gauge. The best way to locate these circuits is by way of a schematic (wiring diagram) for your specific rig. There are many online sources available in addition you can reach out to your local dealership and ask for a print out of this specific component wiring diagram. I'm not sure if the Chilton's rebuild manuals would be specific enough to help with this system.
How do I do this to a 2017 Titan XD? I tried 12&13 but must be different
At this moment, I have no clue how to do this to a Nissan vehicle or if it's even possible. Id have to look into a schematic of your exact unit to be able to confirm if a simple circuit completion would have a similar outcome as this Ram. The odds of different truck manufacturers using the exact same circuit numbers for exact components is slim to none. In most cases experimenting with the signal return circuit and voltage reference circuit usually will deliver similar results. By experimenting I mean disconnecting or connecting the circuits. That can include adding a resistor in-between said circuits. Even if it didn't work for you, you still are very lucky that this didn't cause any damage to your vehicle. When time permits I will do some research on your concern and if something promising comes of it I will share that info with you. Until then, take your time and work safe.
Are these wires the same for a 2015 ram 2500?
I currently do not have access to a wiring diagram for a 2015. If you do, you will be looking for the voltage reference (vref) and signal return circuit for the def level sender.
@@brofessionalmechanic connect those two together? Hopefully that works cuz this def system is so frustrating.
Making that connection between those two circuits will complete the circuit and allow the vehicle to exit the 5 mile limitation. Make sure the key is always in the off position before making any adjustments and then turn it back on to see if it worked out for you.
What years will it work on? Great video
Thanks, when I researched the replacement pump for this 2018 3500 the part compatibly listed it be a direct replacement for 2013 - 2018 ram 2500 and 3500. Unfortunately I can't confirm that information to be accurate, but that same year range of compatible vehicles has been confirmed from two parts websites that offer this replacement part.
Stuck on full but appreceate the info.
You're welcome, thanks for watching my video.
Does this mean theoretically I could run with no def?