196cc diesel engine! Is it junk, or is it worth it?
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2023
- In this video, I showcase my first reactions to a small diesel engine I bought. This was a learning experience for me so sorry the video was a little long-winded. I was taking my time examining how everything worked.
Comment your suggestions for possible uses for this engine.
Where I got the engine: www.amazon.com/GDNTMU-Cylinde...
Off-camera I have listen to all your advice and put 15-40 rotella diesel oil in it, so you don't have to comment anymore about the oil.
thats a good call using thicker oil.
Thicker isn't always better
Rotella T is good oil though!!
5w-40 or 0w-40 is excellent oil last a long time!
Homie, Starting fluid will KILL a diesel engine!
@@kennyh5083 A lot of people have said that, but I just don't think it's the case, I wouldn't recommend running a diesel on starting fluid, but a small amount to get it started doesn't seem to do any damage. I took off the head a while back and there wasn't any damage to the top of the piston or rings.
@@Differentthings2006what size is the shaft for the pulley?
First time viewer. Glad to see young people figuring out the mechanics of how something runs. I will check out more videos of yours.
Thank you! Learning how mechanical things work has always been a passion of mine.
I bought a couple of these and upgraded a few reel mowers. Super cool.
The reason it shuts off when you push the throttle all the way to idle is because it’s supposed to shut it off. The decompression is just in case of an emergency like a runway of the fuel shutoff doesn’t work. Love how these thing roll coal while revving it. Great video
Thank you for your comment! I figured out the shut off thing which is kind of silly for me to not know. I know these diesel engines are cool.
Yeah diesel engines don't have a spark ignition system, the fuel essentially ignites by itself, so you can't just kill the sparks
So the only way to shut it off is to either cut the fuel, cut the air, or release the compression entirely.
The decompression is to start it so you don't rip your arm off when you pull it over
I have one of these and a bigger 6hp. Broke the recoil on mine (video on my channel of the work around) but replaced it. Intake vibrated itself apart and contacted the place I bought it from and they sent me another one. One piece of advice and I'm sure you figured it out already or maybe I missed it but don't shut it down with the decompression lever unless it's an emergency like running away. Over time, it'll wear out the rocker arm, just shut it off with the throttle on the back. Great vid, these are neat engines for sure!
Thank you for the comment! Yes, I learned pretty quick about the decompression lever. So far the engine seems to be running all right, although I have not put many hours on it yet.
Just got on installed on a log splitter today. Better overall power than the 6.5 honda. All I did to mine was rinse with diesel, drain and the put oil in to run. About to drain again and fill with 15-40. I ground my shaft with a grinder to 19mm while running. So far, so good.
sounds good.
Really? They supposedly only make 3 horsepower.
Did you delete the governor?...
@@fish_R_stinky69 No, I suppose the increased torque comes into play. All I know is it does just as well as the gas if not better.
@@fish_R_stinky69 Yeah, it feels like it has more but I guess a lot of that torque.
It was fun watching you trying to get it started. 😀
Thanks, it was a work out.
All Diesel engines have that knock or rattle sound. You’ll want to add rubber motor mounts to take some of the vibration out of the motor. You might want to take it to a small engine repair shop and have them do a once over on the engine idle, to make sure it’s functioning properly.
Rubber engine mounts is a good idea, that would significantly reduce the vibration. Thanks for the comment.
@@Differentthings2006 glad to help.
@@Differentthings2006
Super cheap motor mounts are a car or truck tire cut with a whole saw, and stacked as many as you want.
Good for you for getting outside and taking a wrench to something to find out what it's about! I have put one of these on a minibike and on a motorcycle and I can say it was worth every bit of effort.
I enjoyed this, thank you.
Nice. I want to get one now too. Thanks, guys. I like it.
thanks, I'm glad this was helpful.
Clean fuel is critical with a diesel engine. The fuel shoud be run thru a fine filter before being put into the tank. The injector pump has minute clearances between parts, and anything that is even slightly abrasive in the fuel will kill the pump very quickly. Diesel will also develop interesting problems if used after standing for several years - apparently a bacteria or fungus will grow in the fuel, and clog the pump and injector! Also, air in the injector pipe will make the engine a reluctant starter, and may cause uneven running. Crack open the injector pipe coupling, release the compression, and pull the engine over until fuel leaks out of the loose fitting once the air has been expelled, then tighten the fitting again. And yes, there is an engine oil designed specifically for diesels. Normal petrol engine oil is not recommended for diesels.
u can put a fungicide in the fuel to kill any fungus. Ive had fungus in bio fuel. Never in traditional diesel or heating oil.
I think you'll find that air filter is probably a fairly standard part. You might have to get creative and RTV silicone/gasket a huge washer on the new one to make the centre bolt thingy work but you should be able to get something to fit that easily.
From study of these engines 200 cc is about 6 hp at full tilt , Fuel burn with diesel tends to be o.4 lbs per HP or 0.18 litres per HP . Life of good quality small types is about 2000 to 4000 hours about 170 days continuous . I would expect Chinese cheapo to be about 500 to 1000 hrs or 20 to 40 days continuous so on $200 dollors that is $0.50 cent to $25 cent per hour not counting consumables like fuel Lub oil and filters etc . These make good 12 volt or 24 volt generators from car alternators or dynamos to recharge battery banks . Best fuel effientcy tends to be top rated speeds but 60 % gas gives longer life of engines . Changing Lub oil frequently extends life so if oil change is every 50 hours do it every 25 hours as a example If engine is 6hp set alternator to be using max about 4 hp to not load engine too much and 4 hp is in 12 volt about 22 amps per HP or 88 amps . For go carts diesel is slow to change speeds so works best in steady speeds and direct drive no gears just clutch and reverse and forward . Boat engine works well also . Spare parts are often the same price as new engine so most peoples with cheapo gas and Diesel engine just buy another engine and cannibalise the engines as they buy them . Cold starts with di metal ether spray are hard on engine so de ice spray seems to work best from reports .Shaft outputs are better than side belts as the side force wears bearings out quicker . Used cooking oil cleaned and altered CETANE to run with 5% gasoline mix to thin out thick oil fuel will also probably work OK . Low temperature use often adding 30% Kero to fuel helps . If no Kero fuels available a 5% gasoline added helps or you make Kero with 7 parts paraffin and one part gasoline . It is common in many countries to sell diesel that is made mostly of Kero and that trick is common in many parts of the world to sell bad diesel oil mixed in with other junk fuels like methanol and used lubrication oils and water that can wreck these diesel engines and might explain the fuel instructions .Diesel pumps in diesel don't like pure Kero as they wear out from lack of lube oil but adding some Lub to Kero fuels can keep simplex pumps like these engines more happy . That trick won't often work with modern in line pump with its very high pressure solutions . Not good to breathe in these diesel fumes so best to make exhaust solutions to get rid of the micro particles that cause cancers . Keep up the good work
Wow, that's a lot of info, thanks for the comment
@@Differentthings2006 anytime been there got the TShirt bought a old 1969 for $1000 dollars 30 foot boat with 13 hp inboard marine engine in 2017 and bought for $300 a 250000 mile 1993 Toyoto Carina diesel 2000cc in 2010 and had to learn the hard wayhow to rrpair service them. Diesel big or small are similar its the bits that are attached to them that often trigger most problems or bad oil lub or bad diesel or veggie fuels as here in Ireland inside communist controlled EU the climate action green communists force us to have 7% veggie oil in diesel fuel at the pumps that basicaly wreck reliable 500000 mile plus inline injector diesel engine to force us to buy crappy
expensive electric cars.
Im thinking about maybe building a log splitter with one of these, cause my dad has a homemade one he ran with an old briggs and stratton engine and it ran great. So i feel this engine might actually be powerful enough for a log splitter.
It's quite possible, it definitely has a good bit of torque. I wish you the best on this project.
The compression release is normally only for starting. It is best to turn the engine off with the throttle. That is why it does not keep running when you let the throttle handel go to minimum.
This is the most simple diesel engine available. Everything is mechanically regulated.
The amount of fuel injected is determined by the high pressure fuel pump. The injector does play an important role to. If the injector is not set up right it will open too soon and stay open to long. Or it will open to late and does not stay open long enough.
In the first case the engine getst too much fuel and smokes a lot, it runs "to rich" as you call it. The power output will usually be ok.
In the second case the power will be low and the engine will not start easily and does not run full out.
These enginese are usually set up a little bit "to rich" as you call it. That way the engine starts easier and runs better. Fuel economy is less and the engine smokes more.
Modern diesel engines have an electronic engine control unit (ECU) that controls the injectors and the high pressure fuel pump. This gives a much better fuel economy and less emissions.
Interesting, I'm glad I'm able to learn about these things. It's cool that this engine runs fully mechanically. I am most familiar with small carbureted gasoline engines so a lot of the concepts carryover but it's interesting to learn the specific differences. Thanks for your comment.
I did not expect this video to get so popular. Thanks for the support.
If that crushed air filter tore the paper of the filter you'll dust your engine in short order. Look for a replacement as soon as possible and then fasten it down with a low plastic wing nut to help prevent futuristic over tightening,
I checked and it wasn't torn. What it needs is to nuts so you can lock it together without over-tightening it, but the wing nut would probably work too.
Good Luck with your channel. Enjoyed
Thank you
I own a chinese 6 kw, 230volt diesel generator and it works fine. Brandname lawntop. Rather loud though, so I placed it in a free standing janitor for gardening tools made of concrete blocks. Have it running out in the open would cause my neighbors to complain..
The fueltap is crappy and leaks. I catch the leakage in a small container.
Good emergency power supply.
Nice, mine has a little fuel leak as well unfortunately. They are very noisy even if you put a good muffler on it the diesel knock is quite loud.
The nice thing is they just sip on fuel. I only refill mine every few months and I use it for a diesel powered air compressor.
Great show and info!
Thank you, it was a learning process for me, and I'm glad I was able to help others learn as well.
@@Differentthings2006 Hi!what do you think of biobutanol and ethanol for engines made for it with hi compression ratios?BTW butanol has110,000 btus per gallon and I think does not go stale after time.great sustainable gasoline substitute?
@@Differentthings2006 what is the compression ratio? bore chrome lined?
@@ghgghgyuhkljjijijui Well, to be honest, I have not done a whole lot with those fuels, although ethanol is put into most gasoline nowadays, and I do know it's bad for a lot of O-rings and plastic parts in the engine, but it could probably work for some thing that was made for it.
@@ghgghgyuhkljjijijui The compression ratio is 20 to 1. I'm pretty sure it just has an aluminum liner.
With diesel engines of any size, its not the speed that they are bought for, its the torque, and also why it has a larger flywheel. Double check your users manual for the correct weight of oil. Most gasoline small engines are in the SAE 30 oil viscosity range (how thick the oil is). Working on older diesels, I have seen as high as SAE 50 for summer time operation. Got called when a guy I know put 5w20 into a lawn mower engine that called for SAE 30, and wrecked the compression rings and started burning oil like crazy. Yeah, it rolls a lot of coal, but older EPA-exempt diesels will do that. Use the throttle to shut it down, the decompress is just holding a valve open, but it is still injecting fuel into the cylinder as it shuts down. Doesn't matter if its a single cylinder pull start 196cc or a 15,000cc 6 cylinder Cummins or a 32,000cc C32 Caterpillar 12 cylinder or any other sort of diesel. They all operate on a similar principle, just a heck of a size difference.
Good information, the user manual was not very helpful. It just recommended 10W-30 without any additives, but off camera I put 15-40 Rotella diesel oil in it.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work.
Thank you, I appreciate the positive comment, I get a lot of negative comments especially on this video.
Cool
That's a cute size diesel engine :)
It sure is.
Judging from your comments about the weather, I would say you'd be right at home here in England 😂
Yeah, I've heard England has similarly odd weather.
I always ship UPS. Always on time and rarely ever any damage
They do seem to be a good shipping company, but sometimes you have to pay more.
very cool!!!
Yeah you're gonna want to use rotella or mobil1 or something for that. The sulfur and other crap just turns it black and conventional oil will degrade faster because of it. Also a little tip is that you can wet a rag with gasoline and just hold it over the intake instead of starting fluid. It's much more gentle on diesels than ether is. Ether can cause a lot more detonation. Propane from a torch head is acceptable too in a pinch.
I've put rotella in it. Thanks for the tip, I'm not too concerned about using starter fluid occasionally for a cold start since it's not running on it for any long period of time.
@@Differentthings2006 eh it's really the excessive forces exerted on the wrist pin, pin bearings (if it has them), and piston skirt that you have to be conscious of when it's detonating before top dead center. Some non-turbo car engines will fold the connecting rods in half if the ether goes off too early. Another fun thing about using a gassed up rag is that it can run a good 30 seconds on just the fumes without knocking.
@@bonkbonk92 Interesting, I did not know that.
I just found your channel. I like it. :)
I might consider a diesel at some point for a generator not sure yet.
Good luck and don't get your clothes entangled in the axles, engines don't care about you. :D
Thank you! Yep there are pros and cons to diesel over gas as I'm finding out but they are pretty cool.
Id wash out the engine with diesel fuel and leave the plugs open for a day, then rinse with engine oil, before filling with rotella diesel oil, I'd get a supercharger, the little refurbished Japanese units amr 500 or something like that, with the correct pulley it will work well with the small engine! Make some boost at idle about 6-8 psi should be plenty, with water methanol injection! It should make atleast 10-15 HP and enough TQ to spin the moon! With the governor relaxed!: That would make a cool minibike engine!! But I need one for a DC generator!
Sounds interesting, although Id probably need pipe bending tools and a welder, which I unfortunately don't have.
Water will turn to superheated high pressure steam and damage the injector pintle,also etch the exhaust valve.
Living off grid as I do, I would make an adapter to run the exhaust into the burn channel of a gas hot water heater to supliment heating the water
That would work, as long as you didn't have an exhaust leak.
@@Differentthings2006 ?You keep it outside the living area
@@Jagdtyger2A Oh, that makes sense.
Nice video!
Thank you!
What can be done with these is holding down the decompression lever and pulling repeatedly with the fuel rack on to run fuel through the system.
Also *don't* shut these off using the decompression lever, but with the fuel control; otherwise damage to the exhaust valve may occur.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, I figured out that what you said was a good method for starting, also, other people quickly inform me about not shutting it down with the decompression lever.
@Differentthings2006 Thanks for the reply 😄 Yeah I should've seen if there were newer vids before getting on the shutting down method tjing, but I know a lot of people (including me at one stage) don't know about the priming method for a new small diesel or dry fuel system
Study till saying "That Thing" leaves your vocabulary and you will go far. People watch to learn you know. And your little brother will be good help learning with you. Great to see. Put it on a garden tractor pulling an implement or pushing a blade and you will learn about torque. Great swap for a Sears Suburban! I want one for mine. I have 4 or so.
Thank you for your comment, I'm always eager to learn about mechanical things.
@@Differentthings2006 I started by taking a push mower engine apart around 8 or 9 and putting it back together. Never stop learning and good luck. Keep your little brother by your side. He pays attention to you.
Great engine to put on a cheap mini bike frame so it will vibrate and crack all the welds. Saw one of those on RUclips on a go kart, barely had enough power to pull its own weight.
Yeah, it wouldn't be ideal for a mobile situation. It would still be cool though. I have it mounted to a 20 G air compressor tank. It does well, I just posted the video of me finishing the project after working over 6 months on it.
Those Chinese engines are not bad, they always reuse the oil to break in the engines, so it can be pretty filthy. A tip would be to put some diesel in the crankcase and slowly pull the engine over without fuel so it doesn't start, then drain out the diesel. Many times people find metal dust, shaving, etc. in the bottom of the crankcase due to poor quality control during manufacturing.
Thank you for your comment, I will be doing a more thorough cleaning of the engine and using better oil.
That would make a great water pump motor or a home built generator.
That's what I was thinking, it's a little heavy for something mobile.
They're obviously trying to give this shipping protection, but it's still not quite good enough and they should probably attach the base plate to the bottom of the wooden box to completely keep it from moving and *then* add the styrofoam cap on top to prevent sway and protect the tank. If you're already paying for a wooden box, then you might as well use its rigidity to your advantage, much like wearing a selt belt in a car.
As it is, there are too many sharp edges repeatedly cutting into the styrofoam as the engine flops around without restraint.
I agree, thankfully the engine didn't seem to sustain any significant damage.
Would love to have one too play with it and see how it’s built
Yep it's pretty nice, it seems that it could replace most Honda clone engines and maybe up the performance a little bit.
Oil in Diesel engines gets dirty fast. With the fuel system being bone dry, you’ll need to crank it over by hand to purge the air out of the fuel system.
fair play no manual on the engine and your unbolting stuff and putting it back,,myself ,d have got a manual for it diesels are normally easy engines to work on as long as no electronics, best way i found of cleaning old oil out is 50ml of petrol 70 ml of parafin ,,40 to 50 ml of trans gearbox oil or diff grease and 20/40 fill up and run it for a few hours ,drain off ,and put 20/40 oil i it or paint thinners and gearbox oil and fill with thick truck oil to clean it out but make sure truck oil is filtered so smooth no grit in it, be a fun project to build a quad or bike around the engine ,or min trike
Where did you buy this engine from?
Link is in description. Note, it may not work for you depending on where you're located.
Lastly the diesel tends to run rich on acceleration simply by design, as it uses fuel to increase speed and can't meter the air (unlike some new diesels and rarer older models). Once under a load or just steady running they run an AFR past stoichiometric
That's right, These engines are interesting to work on do to there fully mechanical fuel system. I put a shop vac hose on the intake with the blowing side, and when I revved the diesel up, it didn't smoke as much, because it was getting more air. It's been over a half a year, and it still runs good. 👍
Yay that's basically a ghetto supercharger! @@Differentthings2006
@@JBF-GST-Tanda Yep, got my portable Ryobi super charger no idea how many pounds of boost it's making.
These little guys may not look it. I've tested one of these. They made about 347psi of compression. As it is, fair enough. I recommend installing a fuel shut off valve before the filter rather than using the decompression lever. I accidentally hit the decompression lever when I was starting it up and let it go immediately until it moved back. The engine ran backward a couple times and stalled.
Thanks for the comment. I learned pretty quickly by the comments that the decompression lever is not how you shut down a diesel engine, I just use the throttle and put it to the idle position, which just sends no fuel to the injection pump.
I don’t know why but there is a certain diese motor oil. I guess it has more additives for a diesel motor. I enjoyed your video.where did you learn all the engine functions?
Thanks for your comment. I did read the instruction manual after the fact, and it said 10W-30 was recommended. To answer the last question, both from a lot of RUclips research and quite a bit of personal experience from tinkering around with these things.
the reason why there is diesel engine and gas engine oil, is due with a diesel engine there is soot that is washed into oil and the oil deals with that soot, where gas engines don't have that problem as much.
@@JoshKilen interesting, that makes sense.
@@Differentthings2006 I have done reading on diesel theory and understand how and why they works, plus I have a 5Kw diesel generator that I went through to reactivate it, videos on my channel.
@@JoshKilen Nice
You should be running a 15w-40 diesel oil. Like rotella t4
I'm going to be running some high quality diesel oil in it don't worry. Tt's interesting to look through the comments and see how many other people have commented the same thing.
Where did you buy this thing? I've been looking for this exact one. Have had no luck finding one over the last year at a reasonable price...
Right here, sorry I should've had the link in the description earlier.
www.amazon.com/GDNTMU-Cylinder-Transport-Irrigation-Drainage/dp/B09SZB5XSX/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=nRmG2&content-id=amzn1.sym.bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_p=bc5f3394-3b4c-4031-8ac0-18107ac75816&pf_rd_r=6JNE83J1GWFTSC0E9QJ2&pd_rd_wg=RoxeV&pd_rd_r=dfda7afa-68f2-4b5b-b4b2-96d44bd88e98&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
@@Differentthings2006 ah yes... that's listed as currently unavailable on Amazon much like my recent experiences. Thanks for the reply though.
P.S might be cuz I'm in Canada
@@jettamaster3297 Maybe, if you ship it to your personal address, it may work.
Never ever use starting fluid on anything smaller than a 4b cummins use wd40 to start then if you want it to last any length of time.
@@jettamaster3297 yeah I looked into whether these were legal to import into Canada and they are not unless they meet emmisions standards which none of them do because they haven't been tested and certified. Probably why they are gone now. You could try ordering one from China but chance CBSA will seize it. Kinda a shame these things are pretty cool. I just rebuilt a 186fa I bought blown up. New pump is dicked so waiting for another one then we shall see if she goes or if she blows 😂
Can the drill method of starting work with this diesel, or is this to "torquey"?
Yes, I have done it before, you have to press in the compression release, spin it up to speed and then quickly let off the compression release so it'll pop off.
I Used Shell Rotella 10W 30 For Diesel Engines 1 quart is 9.99 at NAPA but Walmart has a Gallon of it for $15.00 which i will be buying as its cheaper as this engine take about a quart of oil. and can have some left over for the oil change when it gets dirty
I've been using Rotella T4 15w-40 oil for this engine. It is cheaper by the gallon.
Some of what I was going to say has already been covered in other comments, so I won't repeat them.
The size of the flywheel is because of the compression ratio. It takes a lot of inertia to get it over top dead center. The higher the compression, the greater the rotating mass is required. And that extra rotating mass is the reason for the slower throttle response. And 19 to 1 compression is not unusual when you do not have glow plugs. Lower compression does not heat the air as hot and requires additional heat for initial combustion.
But putting diesel fuel in a red can for gasoline is stupid. I've seen a guy destroy a $4000 motorcycle because he thought it was gasoline in a red can. Someone filled it with diesel. Get blue, yellow, or green. Anything but red.
This is all good information that I've learned about the diesel engine engine except the compression ratio is 20 to 1 but of course the same principle applies. As for the red gas can I'm very familiar with what it contains, it's the only one we have that is that shape and size, so no one will be confusing at anytime soon. Although it would be smarter to get one that's a different color, we just didn't have one at the time of buying the diesel fuel.
Does this engine come with a owners manual?
Hi. Black smoke is very typical for diesel engines, when you give more throttle. It is not on too rich or too lean.
Hello, yeah, that's what some people have said. From my understanding it's a result of the fuel injector, squirting in more fuel than the engine can suck in air until it gets up to speed, causing it to burn with too much fuel or rich for a second until I can catch up with it self. Which, as you said is normal. Would you say this is correct?
@@Differentthings2006yes especially fully mechanical diesels and even more so with non turbo dieses
I have a rokon mototractor,(motorcycle) I want to install one of these engines on,it came stock with a Kohler 175cc they look very similar, do you think they have similar bolt pattern
Just drill new holes if you need to
No big deal
Myself I just can’t figure out what application those motors would work for a rototiller ?
Yeah, pretty much the same thing that a gasoline engine of the same size would work for, although as some people have pointed out they are best suited for steady RPM operation like a generator or a rotor tiller would probably work, this was actually meant to go on a water pump. But you can get away with putting this on a mini bike or a go kart, it would just be a little heavy.
I wonder what the torque rating is for that tiny engine,you could use it on a generator just put a really large pulley on the engine and a small pulley on the generator and you could have
Well, it makes 3 hp and if I assume that the peak torque is made at around 2800 RPM which is a guess by the way. I calculated the torque to be 5.6 ft-lb. I am currently using it to run a two cylinder air compressor, I have not got it to stall yet. It definitely feels like it has a lot of torque.
how bad does it vibrate compared to a briggs and stratton engine of similar size?
As if you set a jackhammer on the table. I understand that this is normal although I'm sure rubber engine mounts would help a lot with controlling vibrations.
That seems to be a decent little engine. I'll look forward to how long it lasts!
Me too, I guess this is sort of an experiment hence the title.
If you get one, flush the crank with kerosene and check the torque specs on the head. I've put about working 14 hours on mine so far with no issues.
With new engines, you always want to put fresh oil into it. Run it for 50hrs, and change the oil.
Never shut off the engine with the Compression valve shut it off by the throttle Unless you will damage the the engine. The compression valve shut off is just for emergency and if it ever has a Diesel Runaway which happened to my engine by which I removed the engines governor and messed up by removing it and it was higher rpm but it had a Runaway on me so I fixed it and didn't need a new governor and so my engine has higher rpm and torque. Also I use 15W-40 oil which is more smooth for the engine the recommended 10w oil sucks which is the oil they use in China
Yeah, everyone's been telling me to shut it down with the fuel shut off which is what I'm doing now. I'm going to invest in getting some better oil as well.
Is it still running good, thinking about buying one myself
Yes, it is still running good although I have not used it very much. I'm going to be using this engine in a homemade air compressor build, so it'll get some good use, and we'll see how it holds up.
Smoke is always a sign of poor combustion...which is why the engine smokes as soon as you accelerate it, it cannot process all that diesel on low RPM.
I learned these engines are tuned a little rich for easy start up, which would explain as you said.
I got to watch this in Saskatchewan Canada we have a version of your Harbor Freight Princess Auto is was ours they sold sort of off shore Diesel engine for short time so Idk anything about those motors I know about diesel as farmer and trucker
I'm glad you liked the video, I learned a lot too.
Any body know the mount flange dimensions, shaft length, and diameter? I am looking at for my tiller one but Amazon sucks for specifications!
The engine mounts are the same size as with any other Honda clone engine. The output shaft is 20mm, standard dimensions are 3/4 shaft, which is 19mm. I ground the shaft down on mine to fit the standard size. The output shaft length should be fine.
@@Differentthings2006 awesome, thank you!
@@jcdesignsandboat-works8290 No problem, glad I was able to help.
@@Differentthings2006 any issues with the motor yet?
@@jcdesignsandboat-works8290 It runs good, it's a bit of a pain to cold start if you live in a colder climate. And it vibrates a lot, but so far it has been quite reliable. I will let you know if any issues arise.
How long do it run on a full tank roughly and what rpm
I have not ran it through a full tank in one go yet. The rpm should be around 3000 at the max.
Is that engine still doing a good job
Yes, I have it mounted on a homemade air compressor. It does a good job, other than being a little bit of a pain to cold start in the winter. I have a playlist on the project. ruclips.net/p/PLG3a0iRRLW2czq0-_7T5ACRQqFV07D21F
Sticker means no black diesel WMO or veggie oil WVO as fuel. Cheers Graham
I'm not sure if that was meant to be an insult or a compliment... I've heard different alternative fuels can run in these engines quite well, such as vegetable oil and biodiesel, etc.
Good uses would be maybe a mini bike or railcart or on your tiller. Even a go kart. Whatever fits your application. I'll subscribe for more.
Thanks!
Does anyone know what the shaft threads are for the predator and other it says 5/16 NT and it’s what Amazon says fits. It’s not the correct thread and I can’t figure it out not about to force it on either it clearly is not the correct thread.
5/16-24 NF is Predator 212cc
Um,,,did you not get the manual with it?
Yes, it came with a manual in English.
What size is the output shaft?
20 mm I ended up sanding the shaft down to 3/4 in. (19 mm) so it would fit with a standard pulley.
Where did you buy thing I want two ✌
There is a link in the description, it may not work, depending on which country you live in, but hopefully it works out for you, I've had this engine for four months now and it's still working good for me, it just vibrates a lot.
What size is the pto shaft?
20mm, standard size for a Honda clone is 3/4 in. (19mm)
@@Differentthings2006 dang… was hoping it was 1”, cause I was about to order one of these
@@Bigtommyboy6996 Sorry to disappoint you, I sanded the shaft on mine down to 3/4 in. so it fit standard pulley sizes.
Great engine to experiment with alternative fuels. Cooking oil, fuel oil, jet fuel, kerosene-- old spent filtered oil-, put it on a minibike- with a torq a verter varible clutch--and call it the test bench.
Are you brothers?, If so that is great, keep the relationship.
Thanks for your comment, that would be an interesting thing to try.
@@jefferyrightmire9520 If you're referring to the little guy in some of the clips yes that's my brother. :)
There are 3 grades of fuel for this type of engine it says to use Red fuel. You cant use the other 2 types. I didnt know this untill I saw a trucker talking about what type of fuel they have to use, they get tickets if they use the wrong kind.
Red fuel is off red fuel like farmers use. However back in the day you could buy Knox Super Red on road fuel but that was in the early 90's.
The main difference between red diesel or #2 fuel oil versus non red diesel is where it’s legal to burn it. You can burn the non red diesel in any diesel engine that you want to. The red diesel has a red dye added to it to signify that it is not for on road use. Any diesel that goes in a vehicle meant for driving on the roads cannot have dyed diesel in it’s tank. Why? Because red dyed diesel does not have per gallon Federal or State road tax added. Roadway diesels have to burn clear diesel because when you buy clear diesel from a gas station, you are paying federal and state road taxes. That’s the biggest source of revenue for highway maintenance and construction. You can burn clear diesel in any diesel engine, even off-road or this diesel engine. It works the same, it just doesn’t have dye added. Plus you are paying highway tax for off-road use. No penalty from the govt for paying the tax when you don’t have to. If you drive a diesel vehicle on the road and they pull you over, stick a tester down in your tank and it comes out red, you are going to pay a fine. And not $100. In most states it is $10 per gallon or $1,000, whichever is greater. So for most it will be $1000. For large tractor trailers that hold several hundred gallon, the $10 per gallon rule kicks in and will go into the multiple thousand dollar range. So yeah, that’s the only difference between them. In the past the red diesel (fuel oil) would have higher sulfur levels but my understanding now is that it has the same low sulfur content of regular clear diesel. I have farm tractors and buy bulk red diesel. When I’m out sometimes I will buy road diesel and put in my tractor. It runs just the same. You can also burn kerosene in diesels. We used to put half kerosene and half diesel during really cold weather so that the diesel wouldn’t gel (freeze). But that was when kerosene was about the same price as diesel. Now you couldn’t afford to do that as high as kerosene is.
@@jcolbyt82 wow, very in-depth comment. I did not know that, Good information.
Yes, let's mount a pull cord motor to a work bench on rollers then try to pull start the motor wile the bench Flys into us.
You get 2 🌟 ⭐ for ingenuity.
lol, oh yes, I left that clip in on purpose.
You need 15w40 oil for that engine
I’m no diesel mechanic but I know a little bit yes. That’s true in some cases that it’s rolling coal bc of fuel. But that’s also how they control the rpm’s. It’s not like a gasoline engine. Where there’s a fuel injector or a carb. It’s controlled by the fuel. So when u play with the idle back there. Your dumping all the fuel at once it has to catch up
That is true, my experience is in carbureted gasoline engines, mostly. But I have learned a lot while working on this and from the comments.
@@Differentthings2006 I’ve learned on here too. I don’t mess with them. Unfortunately I’m not a small engine guy. But a motor is a motor. But I watch all the diesel guys. It’s a whole new world. You’ll get it. It doesn’t seem too complicated. I learn a lot from my uncle too. He’s a diesel guy. But I know I was looking into to buying a diesel truck and wanted to be that guy that just rolls coal 😂 that was one of the times is to shoot more fuel in it
I use diesel or kerosene to flush a new engine and let it drain goo then pour a cup of oil thru it and drain
15/40 is what I would use but not synthetic until after first oil change or two
It needs 15W40 oil. I'd put leather inbetween the motor and it's wood. I'd also avoid the repeated throttle changes.
That's the oil I put in it, as the top pinned comment says. Leather or rubber motor mounts is definitely not a bad idea. Yes, diesel engines are better suited for constant RPM running, but I bought this engine to put it to the test, not to baby it.
@@Differentthings2006 it will do different speeds but the range is not that wide. Mine is not going to do high revs. They also hate low too close to the stall speed. The rings can score
@@stanleybest8833 Yeah, as you said, the rpm range is not very impressive, I currently have it mounted on an air compressor tank, what does quite well. Can pressurize the 20 gallon tank to 100 psi in just a couple of minutes.
Lets see a video of actual people at the EPA use these gas tanks they sell now. They have to use them for the next year. I bet you they would cry in mercy over their own ideas.
😂I know there is zero practicality to them.
This engine in a bike ! Would be great to see
That would be cool.
Big flywheel for torque used diesel oil regular oil does not have additives For a diesel engine, most all diesel engines have a knock in them specially at idle
Yes, the large fly wheel is to dampen the vibration from a punchy power stroke and compression stroke. I figured the knock was normal although the vibrations got me a little worried.
Where does one purchase this?
Link is in description. Note, it may not work for you depending on where you're located.
I'll just pretend I didn't see you do that LMAO 😂😂😂
What exactly :)
Oil? ALWAYS use motor oil rated for light diesel engines!! It NEEDS to have zinc in it also. ICC rules prohibit a common carrier from transporting an engine with more than a very small amount of oil or fuel in it. After being test run at the factory, all of the practical fluids are pumped out, before packing. These fluids return to a large supply tank. Since all diesels turn the oil black very quickly, and many engines are tested with the same oil supply, you should expect the black oil color. Fill it with fresh oil, run it a couple of hours, and inspect the oil color. 'Nuff said. Packing damage? Reach out to the carrier. I will say, however that the engine should have been bolted to a wooden piece to hold it in place, and extra thickness put on the shaft side. When we shipped out our engine powered finished goods, we used item specific cardboard inserts. The Styrofoam pre forms are not made for use in packing of small heavy stuff!
Many people have told me about the oil situation.... except for the company, of course.
Yeah, the Styrofoam at the bottom was fairly destroyed and flattened, but the only visible shipping damage was some minor cosmetic damage on the end of output shaft... at least, as far as I know.
Since you are trying to be a content creator it is never wise to get your body and/or your big head in between your shot and the camera. When you can get a wireless microphone setup for consistent audio so every time you move your camera or your head your audio levels are consistent. Good luck.
Thanks, easier said than done, I would have to move the camera each time I wanted to move around the project which I did do some but didn't do all the time. I could definitely use to improve the audio though.
would like to see some one try to start it in freezing weather.
Oh, don't worry, we get plenty of that here, it looks about the same. It just takes a lot longer, to start since it has no glow plugs.
I'll probably catch it on video at some point during this winter.
You forgot to mention who the supplier is and where to get one if interested
Check the description of the video, it may not work for everyone, but is the cheapest one I could find.
You took the fuel pump out. Are you sure you put the pin and lever correctly together?
I was a bit worried that I had misaligned it, but the pin has a little channel to make sure it goes in correctly, so thankfully it was all right.
Exhaust sucking thing into the engine? Really?
You're right, usually things get blown out, but there is a little bit of a pulse that could suck things back potentially. The risk is negligible especially, since it was just styrofoam, but it never hurts to clean things out.
it would be cool you put a big flywheel on it and make it hit or misss
I actually did that, check out this video halfway through: ruclips.net/video/_RZGz6hiDKA/видео.html
Next engine, flush with trans fluid for a few minutes to remove their metal and debris!?!
Off camera I flushed out the engine with diesel, and then filled it up with Rotella T4 15W-40 oil.
I need two ✌
Not a great considering the packing and orange paint probably lead based. Check if it rubs off. Guess it was cheap.
Like Russian 👍 take it apart & rebuild it before use !😊
Yeah, the paint does seem to hold itself together, at least it doesn't rub off easily. As for the packing, it wasn't great as you said, but at least nothing was damaged.
If that thing was plastic, it certainly wasn't a flywheel....unless it had huge weights out on the ends. I suspect that is part of the forced air cooling instead. You like to protect your hearing...but don't mind about the black smoke?..esp with your kid standing there.?
That's actually not my kid that's my brother but I'm glad someone thinks I look old :) Black smoke is mostly carbon as a result of incomplete combustion, the dangerous part of exhaust is what you can't see... for the most part.
What is the horse power of it
3 hp
They kid-proofed the package.... 🤣
lol, yep I guess so but not enough for this kid!
Ciao 1°errore: Mettere da parte il manuale: da persona meno esperta, è importante acquisire maggior informazioni possibili senza andare ala cieca! Hai smontato un pò tutto dal coperchio delle valvole che avresti dovuto controllare il giogo e invece ti sei focalizzato sulla leva del decompressore!; la pompa d'iniezione che bisogno avevi s smontarla per vedere come è fatta; se avessi letto il manuale probabilmente avresti potuto i apprendere le operazioni preliminari all' avviamento necessarie! Procedendo alla cieca rischi pure di rompere qualcosa? Tu te ne intendi di pompe di iniezione per giudicare? Hai visto se c'e olio nella coppa dell'olio? del motore? Se l'olio nel motore probabilmente non c'è per questioni di trasporto, versare la quantità di olio motore prevista prevista; Per provare ad avviarlo, versare il gasolio nel serbatoio; poi facendo ruotare il motore, cominciare a spurgare di aria i tubi alta pressione dalla pompa di iniezione all'iniettore quando l'aria è completamente spurgata, il motore se non ha problemi si avvierebbe! un'atra cosa ; il motore che hai acquistato probabilmente lo devi montare su una macchina; la presa di forza( la puleggia) la hai già procurata? h visto che ala fine lo hai avviato l'olio nel motore c'è? Insomma video inutile! Traslate: Hello 1st mistake: Putting the manual aside: As a no less expert person, it is important to read the manual to acquire as much information as possible! Without going blind! (by trial and error) You dismantled everything from the valve cover which you should have dismantled just to check the valve yoke and instead you focused on the depressor lever! Why did you need to dismantle the injection pump? To see how it's made; If you had read the manual you would probably have been able to learn the preliminary operations necessary for starting! If afterwards the engine leaks a little oil from the tappet cover; At the base of the injection pump, No, you can complain: it's probably due to your tampering. Do you risk breaking something by proceeding blindly? Do you know anything about injection pumps to judge? Have you seen if there is oil in the oil pan? Of the engine? If there is probably no oil in the engine for transport safety reasons, you must pour in the required amount of engine oil; Before trying to start it, pour the diesel into the tank; Then by rotating the engine, begin to bleed the air from the high pressure pipes from the injection pump and the injector when the air is completely purged, the engine could start if it has no problems! Another thing: the engine you purchased probably to mount it on a working machine: Have you already got the power take-off (the pulley)? I saw that in the end you started the engine: there was oil in the engine ? In short, the video is incomplete and therefore useless!
I read the manual off camera, and it said nothing about any of the parts, it was just an overview mostly on the machine it was designed to go on, which was a water pump. The manual did explain how to start it with the decompression lever. I use this knowledge to start it. Taking things apart, is how I learn, and I know enough about the engine to know that taking things apart and seeing how they work it's never a bad idea. The engine still works great to this day and I run it quite regularly. If you're curious, I mounted this on an air compressor that I'm making a video series on.
Use oil made specifically for diesel engines has something to do with Cam lobe wear
Interesting, that's quite possible.
It's the zinc content which is needed for any flat tappet style valve train. There are other additives which help to.
That muffler reminds me of the black knight from Monty Python and the Holy Grail