Update: Next Gen Mobility confirmed that Begode has agreed to send replacement parts to get the Max good as new 🙂 My goal is to hit 4000 subscribers by the end of 2024! If you haven't already, would you mind helping me reach that goal by hitting this link to subscribe to the channel? Thank you so much! www.youtube.com/@wheelgoodtime?sub_confirmation=1
Glad you're OK. I always check air pressure on new wheels - never assume it comes from the factory with good pressure. I've received them flat, good, and too high. In your case I'm "guessing" that maybe the tire pressure was too low before you started the ride and that caused the excessive stress on the tire valve (user error 🙂), causing it to rip. Tubeless tires are stiff so the "finger squeeze" test for good air pressure is inadequate.
I'm a heavy rider (260lbs, on a good day). I still rock my Batch one ninebot Z10. The main selling point for me was the tubeless tire (it was the only wheel at that time I think that had one). My biggest fears have been instaflats. Now my biggest fear is overpowering the machine. It seems like the last firmware before abandoning the support was intentionally deisgned to underpower the machine to protect the motherboard. Both of my falls have been from overleaning (from low speeds too). My passions for a Lynx or ET Max have been itching. I know those uits probably wouldn't cut out since I don't go past 28mph (z10 limit) but the fear of instaflats always linger in the back of my head because those are beyond my control. Overleans are things I can actively resolve on my part. It was nice to see you looking like you just had a normal day on the wheel after talking about your crash. I'll never forget my last fall. I was NOT properly geared and while I fully recovered, it did make for a horror flick of a show for a few weeks time. I think once these wheels resolve their issues with tires things I'll purchase one. Every company puts so much engineering into the stability of the wheel and QC of the main unit but not much love is put into the tire (which theoretically is the most critical part since thats what keeps you ON the road). That's why the Z10 shines, the TIRE itself was rated for 430 pounds. This is why I like the ET Max and Lynx. Both built to go 60 so I expect them to keep me rolling perfectly fine at 30......but those instaflats!!!!!!!
He didn't get an instaflat, you can see in his video the tire is low long before the fall. He rolled on the almost flat tire for a while before it tore the valve stem and went flat.
Thank you for sharing so we can all learn. Tire psi and proper tire mounting/alignment on the wheel are so important. I had a major CST tire failure as well on my Master V3 from factory even after checking psi. It ended up being the tire was deformed. I don’t trust those CST tires anymore.
Glad you seemed to avoid any substantial injuries on that one, dude! I'm still leery about going over 30mph on my Lynx (newer rider) because of sudden issues like this. I'm sure I'll get myself past that one day, but I'm more into the offroad side of things anyway. I noticed my Mten Mini was inflated to 65 psi from factory! That seemed just a smidge high, ha!
Thanks for looking out for us. I woulda done the same thing. Just kinda check it by hand. I guess we better go a little extra and use our psi gauges. “New fear unlocked” LOL
I think that expecting the tire pressure to be perfect from the factory is kind of a high expectation since tires naturally lose pressure over time. For best performance, I highly recommend checking the tire pressure as soon as you receive the euc and then checking the tire pressure every two weeks onwards.
I continue to be surprised the number of riders who do not properly setup a wheel before riding? I mean how can anyone not get their suspension sag, and tire pressure and general setup down out of the box? Yes you’ll tweak but the Sag and Tire pressure is basically one and done. Okay with the rebound/compression/pads? Just stuns me the number of ppl including reviews that are just out of the box, on the charger, and on the road? Yikes. Glad you’re ok and that the main thing.
I don't see "checking tire PSI" an element that should be part of proper setup, akin to adjusting your personal suspension preferences. If you buy a new car, should you need to check the tire PSI before test driving it? I don't think so, and most people agree also. I believe it shouldn't be on the user to QC a wheel themselves prior to ever riding it. It seems that is the norm though, because we as a community have so little faith in manufacturers to make a wheel properly. I guess that because the ET Max looked so nice, my faith in the wheel was sadly misplaced 🤕 never again though, I'll be checking PSI before riding for the first time in the future...
tubeless air valves are normal stock in all stores that sells that kind of stuff. So that theory is out of the window. Even my Abrams got one. Yank the tube out and put in a tubeless valve instead.
Strange... I had had flat tire on my master pro twice. Nothing bad happened, just the turns with 0psi was strange. I feel that I was riding on the edge of the rim on turns
Just had a flat tire on my EX30 at (thankfully) lower speeds, but it is HARD to control it as it pulls this way and that like I see it doing in your video (knew exactly what happened when I saw it pulling to the side on you there). Super sketchy situation for sure, and I was grateful it only resulted in a phone call to get picked up. Would have been way worse had I been going full tilt like I typically do. Glad you're safe!
About a week into owning my commander mini I had a crash at about 25mph going around a turn. Honestly it could've been the tire blowing that caused the crash. I hadn't checked the pressure when I got it and I ride this corner every day and have never had the same feel/ crash occur again. Wheel was unharmed except a popped inner tube.
Please please please send me a DM on Facebook - same name (wheel good time). I'd like to hear your story, and also communicate with BG about it, in case this is a widespread issue.
@@juliansdiamonds I considered making a video about it, but the tube swap and tire change process was so ugly and frustrating that it would have made for some real poor quality content. Anyway If you want to reach out via email, my "RUclips email address" is wheelgoodtimeyt@gmail.com - feel free to ask anything, and I'll help the best I can with the tube swap. Any idea where the failure point was on your ET Max? Was it the tube valve, just like mine? Any idea what your tire PSI was prior to the tube popping?
@WheelGoodTime Thank you so much. I really appreciate that you're such a blessing. I will definitely reach out to you with any concerns that I may have as soon as the inner tube arrives. Yes, the valve sheared completely off the same way yours did. I lowered the pressure to 27 psi. When I received the unit and it was somewhere in the 30's. Exact same as your situation. Except I didn't fall. Thank god for that.
happened to me 2 days ago, luckily I was not riding it but saw on the pressure sensor. I ordered a Michelin City extra and will adapt the rim to tubeless, I dont like the racing profile of the CST especially in wet conditions.
Always check the tire pressure before a first ride on a new wheel. I had also this issue, with a valve core getting ripped apart on a ride with the Lynx, causing a flat. I wouldn't call this a "safety alert" on the ET max though, it's mostly a user error and is unfair for the wheel. Overall glad you are OK.
I'd love to, but I think it'd be pretty boring. I'm going to shop around for an angled tubeless valve and pop it on there, because I would rather run this tire truly tubeless anyway
I've used high quality and low quality tubes at high pressure and low pressure. High pressure tended to be slightly better but on average I got 10 hours use before valve snaps off. Rim is spinng inside tyre and tubes are being pulled away from the one small fixed position the valve, until pop. I've managed to pull over safety each time. Tubless were failing out in field and unable to reinflate. Soft alloy euc beads easily scratched from tyre spoons or a rock. I now run mousse, I think I'm first euc on one. Solid rubber, I'm happy over 100km on it so far. I'm never going back to tubes or tubless. My tilt back is 50kph on old monster. I didn't even disassemble wheel to put it in. Wishing you nice success and to be well. Dood wear all the gear. My 5c opinions.
It's honestly odd, I've gotten one flat in like 36000kms on a motorcycle I routinely locked up the tire on pavement on. And it wasn't at the valve, was a piece of glass or something. Tires shouldn't be spinning on the beads at all.
It's good that you walk away from the crash. It's also good that this problem is not a serious design flaw. I think that is a good wheel. But it is over weight for me so I'll skip this one. It's almost as heavy as me (135lb)
Yeah it's a really heavy wheel 😂 it rides similarly to a Master Pro in many ways, it's hardly comparable to the lynx despite their frequent comparisons.
I got a flat while riding my ex20 and it caused me to crash as well. Lucky I was only doing 15 mph at the time Was still embarrassing though as i was at a park. Everyone kind of thinks you have it coming riding an EUC. Not like a flat on a bike you lose complete control of the wheel. If you get a flat try to keep the wheel going in a straight line. Any turn and you are going down.
Just some data: My Master Pro V3 has a street motorcycle tire that reads "Tubeless", but has a tube. The air valve is interesting. It's a standard schrader valve, but the valve is straight and threaded, with a retaining ring, like a bicycle Presta valve, or a motorcycle tube. Ewheels said it could be possible to run a tubeless, with my rim and setup, but it's never been done. My tire was underinflated when I got the Master Pro V3 (normal), but doing a standard bicycle pinch test to check inflation with a motorcycle tire is hard to detect, since the tire is thicker and firmer, and even under-inflated it felt O.K. Oh, and a wave to Pidzoom, I love their "Charge Smart" charge monitor. Thank you for sharing your experience - glad it didn't turn out worse.
So I received my cpro 50s with tubeless tire ran tubed, so I pulled out the tube and put a tubeless valve on it. Done. The C40's rim I put it on isn't meant for it, so I needed to use a strap and lots of bead sealant/lube to do it. My S22 on the other hand was a breeze for TL install, the rim is set up for it
I bet you did this on purpose! There is now a fashion everybody falls, since Dawn's video made millions of views 😜. But you made a mistake, you should wait few days before posting the analysis, so everyone believe you are dead... 😅 Anyhow, as usual, very good and informative video. Kudos.
I knew this wheel would look terrible from a single drop.. some other youtuber said "build quality is robust" also having dents before even riding it. This thing screams where it's made
It looks like the only low pay employee here is you. It's common for valve to be ripped off if riding on flat. Also this unit was airshiped, so if tire was over inflated at the factory it would blow up at high altitude. It looks like you punctured the tire, it slowly lost pressure and you lost control. I don't see how Begode is at fault here
Thank you for this incident report and analysis. Hope you were not injured and recover quickly. As you know, the EUC lights remained on as you went down. Not sure what that suggests, if anything, w.r.t. cutout. Can anyone shed light on whether or not this model of wheel can be safely converted to tubeless? Are aftermarket valve stems for tubeless and of suitable shape available? I am not a tire-and-rim guy so don't take this as a suggestion to do it.
I think if I can find the correct size/shape tubeless valve, I can leave the installed tubeless tire on there without issue. This definitely wasn't a cutout, just an unexpected tire blowout. 🙂
@@WheelGoodTime Another commenter stated that the rim for tubeless is different from the rim for tubed. There might be some dimensional differences and/or differences in the surface roughness of the bead-seat that could affect safety and/or leakage. Another issue to be considered is the possibility of porosity in the (I assume) cast rim, once again setting the stage for leakage. Porosity is frequently an issue with castings in general and especially with castings used to make devices that are to be used to contain pressure, such as valves and etc. One industrial solution is to impregnate such castings with a harden-able liquid but that would be impractical for non-industrial-scale use.
When you've heard the hissing sound, do you remember if it was already too close (like 1-2 seconds) before the crash happened, or do you think you'll be able to notice and prevent such terrible crash if it happens next time? Also, maybe such device can help in alerting and preventing such crash? ruclips.net/video/7rJwQGZwpng/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I think a TPMS would be a helpful thing 😊 at this point I'm not quite sure if the pressure was actually incorrect or not. There's someone else that had the exact same incident as me, except they didn't crash and their PSI was 27. That leads me to believe that this batch of inner tubes has some sort of defect, but I'm really not sure. I was definitely able to slow down a little bit before I crashed because something just didn't feel right - and that may have saved me from getting a major injury.
This guys says he had the issue at 27 PSI: ruclips.net/video/_VxBBq3FGv0/видео.htmlfeature=shared ruclips.net/video/En4MQRec-w8/видео.htmlfeature=shared Looks like the same issue, right? Any idea how to avoid this?? Looks very dangerous, and makes me want to return my ET Max back to the store.
Is there a pedal lowering kit for it already available somewhere? That would be cool to try out. It's just a demo wheel so I won't be getting a lowering kit either way 🙂
So if it comes out of the factory with a dangerously high psi, it's my fault because I didn't QC it myself? 🤣 We don't factually know that it was a dangerously high psi, but I suspect that's the most likely case.
The end lesson: design and build quality is only as good as the ASSEMBLY AND ‘quality check’ quality (in this case, the QC sticker is worth slightly less than the paper it’s printed on); you can make a 737 jumbo jet that can fly half way round the world, but if someone doesn’t fix the door properly……ps - if one QC sticker is applied to a wheel that turns out to be not properly ‘checked’, where is the confidence in the other QC ‘checked’ wheels? 🤔
There’s a good reason why the then Gotway engineers upped and left to form their own company, Leaperkim, to leave Begode to their ‘own devices’. Just sayin’ 😊
Ahah the leaperkim fanboys, ignoring all their wheels faults. Lynx has been dropping people too. And this crash wasn't due to the euc cutting out, like the lynx has had 🤣 and the lynx is still an amazing machine, wish I had one. I'd go for it over the et max as is covers more bases
@@sirv7937 yeah LK has had its issues also with the Lynx, and it's been all sorted out. Now is the time for the ET Max to get the issues sorted out - after all, it was released after the Lynx. To be fair, they are very very different EUCs. The ET Max rides very similarly to the Master Pro, not the Lynx. The Lynx rides and performs much more similar to a Master V4 than the ET Max.
@@sorvete365 I have the Gotway MSP, which I find reliable and was for me a decent first wheel, a Sherman v2 which is solid of course, and a Sherman ‘S’ which is also just a great wheel. They certainly dropped the ball with the second wheel the Abrams, but as far as Begode are concerned, ever since the Hero, practically ALL of their wheels have come with a world of pain. The ET max seemed finally to be a step in the right direction, but when you cannot trust their QC you might as well not have any, and just advise all riders to go back to stripping down and checking every bolt, like what was required not so long ago.
I love my lynx. But I thought the Max was actually pretty good, all things considered before this happened. If I'm not writing off the ET Max just because of this, neither should you 🙂
@WheelGoodTime I was never interested in it to start with lol My theory is your tyre was too flat and the tyre worked its way around the rim taking the tube with it until the pressure on the valve broke it
@@electricunipsycho yeah maybe. It was very stiff when I squeezed it and it was just a bit squirrelly as if the tire was overinflated - so I doubt it was under pressurized. But maybe you're right 🤔
Actually this proves why tubeless is better, and exactly why tubeless is the safest. Rapid pressure released out the valve, like this, is what tubeless installs solves. A tubeless tire installed with a tube isn't a tubeless install, it's a tubed install.
Tubeless tires are awesome. I ride them on mountain bikes and after 6000 miles has never once had a problem. But I never leave home without checking pressure and doing proper maintenance. And your argument comes up woefully short because the valve stem of the tube and the tube itself are very often the cause of most problems.
They all can have issues. The Lynx had cut out issues and major motor knocking issues when it was first released, and look how successful it ended up being. 🙂
Hello again,as I told you before, Begode is a sht brand(dangerous).I am happy to see without damage👍🏻 and again thats why I bought a Lynx and some Inmotions😊
Begode has come a long way in terms of quality and safety in the last few years. I'll be confidently hopping on this wheel as soon as it's repaired, you shouldn't dismiss Begode either just because of this happening either 🙂
Begode is an amazing brand. They've had issues just like any other company 🤣 you literally wouldn't have a lynx or some inmotions (v14 is literally a copy paste of a Begode wheel) if it weren't for Begode. We wouldn't have the EUCs that we have today if it wasnt for Begode pushing the performance market.
Begode ex c40motor rims are oversize and incorrect for the tyres on them. Hence the roger spacers. So what impact does that have on the inner tubes and over stretch or blow out.? My 2 cents. Never had a wheel from begode that had air in the tyre/shock always come flat as a donkey. Prototype wheels - high risk to noreward. American chinese crash dummy "player" i belive is the translated term. Thanks for helping make the wheel safer.
Interesting, I've never heard about them arriving with flat tires before today. I wonder if they maybe used the incorrect size tube, which was a causative factor. Hmmm
The rims are not oversized for the tyres on them, and the spacers are a racing aid with a street tyre; they generally reduce the gyro effect, especially with a dual sport tyre. The rims don't cause an issue at all.
@@extremedv6219 the c40 rim is a weird size. The Roger spacers help most all tires have their intended profile, rounding them more for easier turning. Currently using the spacers with the shinko 244, much better than without them. But seriously it's like begode doesn't have anyone ride them during development
Please tell me how this crash was irresponsible 😂 did you even watch what happened? I admitted what I should have done in the video, but the crash was out of my control.
Unfortunately, in the EUC world, the "crash test dummies" are real people. When I see a crash video, I click to see "what went wrong" and learn from that mistake, in hoping that my new-found knowledge to save me from getting into a crash myself.
I’d like you to point out which part was irresponsible? Which part set a bad example for EUC enthusiasts as you say? It seems like you either didn’t watch the video or you’re a troll. This could have happened to anyone.
Update: Next Gen Mobility confirmed that Begode has agreed to send replacement parts to get the Max good as new 🙂
My goal is to hit 4000 subscribers by the end of 2024! If you haven't already, would you mind helping me reach that goal by hitting this link to subscribe to the channel? Thank you so much! www.youtube.com/@wheelgoodtime?sub_confirmation=1
what happened why did she cut it..??😮😮
@@riders9724 the tire blew out suddenly
@@WheelGoodTime ok thanks I hope you're not too hurt
Glad you're OK. I always check air pressure on new wheels - never assume it comes from the factory with good pressure. I've received them flat, good, and too high. In your case I'm "guessing" that maybe the tire pressure was too low before you started the ride and that caused the excessive stress on the tire valve (user error 🙂), causing it to rip.
Tubeless tires are stiff so the "finger squeeze" test for good air pressure is inadequate.
Going without protection for a planned speed test.. what a legend. Keep it up \m/
Yeah shame on me for being a dummy there 😜
@user-ef1kz8mk7f 😂👍🏻🤡💥
glad you ok, look forward to seeing the full review
This is why I like this channel. It’s EUC scholarship for the everyday. IMO, for 4 k we deserve better, or we need discounts
No influencer yet have compared cutoff and blown tire on modern EUC's😜
Super to hear you walk out without injury :)
Great advice! Check tire pressure before first ride and look at the valve stem to make sure it's properly aligned with the hole.
Yikes! Good video, Nice break down of your fall , and why it had happened. 2 thumbs up!
I'm a heavy rider (260lbs, on a good day). I still rock my Batch one ninebot Z10. The main selling point for me was the tubeless tire (it was the only wheel at that time I think that had one). My biggest fears have been instaflats. Now my biggest fear is overpowering the machine. It seems like the last firmware before abandoning the support was intentionally deisgned to underpower the machine to protect the motherboard. Both of my falls have been from overleaning (from low speeds too). My passions for a Lynx or ET Max have been itching. I know those uits probably wouldn't cut out since I don't go past 28mph (z10 limit) but the fear of instaflats always linger in the back of my head because those are beyond my control. Overleans are things I can actively resolve on my part. It was nice to see you looking like you just had a normal day on the wheel after talking about your crash. I'll never forget my last fall. I was NOT properly geared and while I fully recovered, it did make for a horror flick of a show for a few weeks time.
I think once these wheels resolve their issues with tires things I'll purchase one. Every company puts so much engineering into the stability of the wheel and QC of the main unit but not much love is put into the tire (which theoretically is the most critical part since thats what keeps you ON the road). That's why the Z10 shines, the TIRE itself was rated for 430 pounds. This is why I like the ET Max and Lynx. Both built to go 60 so I expect them to keep me rolling perfectly fine at 30......but those instaflats!!!!!!!
He didn't get an instaflat, you can see in his video the tire is low long before the fall. He rolled on the almost flat tire for a while before it tore the valve stem and went flat.
Thank you for sharing so we can all learn. Tire psi and proper tire mounting/alignment on the wheel are so important. I had a major CST tire failure as well on my Master V3 from factory even after checking psi. It ended up being the tire was deformed. I don’t trust those CST tires anymore.
Glad you’re OK brother love your videos! Thanks🙏
Glad you seemed to avoid any substantial injuries on that one, dude! I'm still leery about going over 30mph on my Lynx (newer rider) because of sudden issues like this. I'm sure I'll get myself past that one day, but I'm more into the offroad side of things anyway. I noticed my Mten Mini was inflated to 65 psi from factory! That seemed just a smidge high, ha!
Thanks for looking out for us. I woulda done the same thing. Just kinda check it by hand. I guess we better go a little extra and use our psi gauges.
“New fear unlocked” LOL
I think that expecting the tire pressure to be perfect from the factory is kind of a high expectation since tires naturally lose pressure over time.
For best performance, I highly recommend checking the tire pressure as soon as you receive the euc and then checking the tire pressure every two weeks onwards.
I continue to be surprised the number of riders who do not properly setup a wheel before riding? I mean how can anyone not get their suspension sag, and tire pressure and general setup down out of the box? Yes you’ll tweak but the Sag and Tire pressure is basically one and done. Okay with the rebound/compression/pads? Just stuns me the number of ppl including reviews that are just out of the box, on the charger, and on the road? Yikes.
Glad you’re ok and that the main thing.
I don't see "checking tire PSI" an element that should be part of proper setup, akin to adjusting your personal suspension preferences. If you buy a new car, should you need to check the tire PSI before test driving it? I don't think so, and most people agree also. I believe it shouldn't be on the user to QC a wheel themselves prior to ever riding it. It seems that is the norm though, because we as a community have so little faith in manufacturers to make a wheel properly. I guess that because the ET Max looked so nice, my faith in the wheel was sadly misplaced 🤕 never again though, I'll be checking PSI before riding for the first time in the future...
tubeless air valves are normal stock in all stores that sells that kind of stuff. So that theory is out of the window. Even my Abrams got one. Yank the tube out and put in a tubeless valve instead.
Strange... I had had flat tire on my master pro twice. Nothing bad happened, just the turns with 0psi was strange. I feel that I was riding on the edge of the rim on turns
Just had a flat tire on my EX30 at (thankfully) lower speeds, but it is HARD to control it as it pulls this way and that like I see it doing in your video (knew exactly what happened when I saw it pulling to the side on you there). Super sketchy situation for sure, and I was grateful it only resulted in a phone call to get picked up. Would have been way worse had I been going full tilt like I typically do. Glad you're safe!
Welcome to the blowout club! 🤣
About a week into owning my commander mini I had a crash at about 25mph going around a turn. Honestly it could've been the tire blowing that caused the crash. I hadn't checked the pressure when I got it and I ride this corner every day and have never had the same feel/ crash occur again. Wheel was unharmed except a popped inner tube.
Mine just did this also. I'm trying to find hiw to take it apart for the inner tube swap. Continue to be safe !!! Thank you for this video !!
Please please please send me a DM on Facebook - same name (wheel good time). I'd like to hear your story, and also communicate with BG about it, in case this is a widespread issue.
Also I can help you with the tube swap if you send a DM 😊
Thank you, tons, but I don't have Instagram. (Unfortunately) You don't have a video on that ?
@@juliansdiamonds I considered making a video about it, but the tube swap and tire change process was so ugly and frustrating that it would have made for some real poor quality content. Anyway If you want to reach out via email, my "RUclips email address" is wheelgoodtimeyt@gmail.com - feel free to ask anything, and I'll help the best I can with the tube swap.
Any idea where the failure point was on your ET Max? Was it the tube valve, just like mine? Any idea what your tire PSI was prior to the tube popping?
@WheelGoodTime Thank you so much. I really appreciate that you're such a blessing. I will definitely reach out to you with any concerns that I may have as soon as the inner tube arrives. Yes, the valve sheared completely off the same way yours did. I lowered the pressure to 27 psi. When I received the unit and it was somewhere in the 30's. Exact same as your situation. Except I didn't fall. Thank god for that.
If I'm going a short distance I may not wear knee pads or elbow pads but I always wear wrist guards and a helmet.
Wow, Good that you’re OK! Thank you for sharing this post-crash analysis:)
Thanks for the video. I’m glad your ok
happened to me 2 days ago, luckily I was not riding it but saw on the pressure sensor. I ordered a Michelin City extra and will adapt the rim to tubeless, I dont like the racing profile of the CST especially in wet conditions.
Wrist guards dude is the most important
Yeah my new set arrived in the mail the next day 🤠 I admit it was a bad idea to skip it that day
In EUCs, converting tires without inner tires may be the solution.
Always check the tire pressure before a first ride on a new wheel. I had also this issue, with a valve core getting ripped apart on a ride with the Lynx, causing a flat. I wouldn't call this a "safety alert" on the ET max though, it's mostly a user error and is unfair for the wheel. Overall glad you are OK.
can you make a video on how to do a tubeless setup? allegedly you just need a different nozzle
I'd love to, but I think it'd be pretty boring. I'm going to shop around for an angled tubeless valve and pop it on there, because I would rather run this tire truly tubeless anyway
@@WheelGoodTime yes would likely be a boring video, let me know if you find one been looking
@@ZenLee search Angled Motorcycle Valve Stems 8.3
Moto-D has a good one that I prefer
Три дня назад я упал на Begode Nikola по той же причине - сдулась камера.
I've used high quality and low quality tubes at high pressure and low pressure. High pressure tended to be slightly better but on average I got 10 hours use before valve snaps off. Rim is spinng inside tyre and tubes are being pulled away from the one small fixed position the valve, until pop. I've managed to pull over safety each time. Tubless were failing out in field and unable to reinflate. Soft alloy euc beads easily scratched from tyre spoons or a rock. I now run mousse, I think I'm first euc on one. Solid rubber, I'm happy over 100km on it so far. I'm never going back to tubes or tubless. My tilt back is 50kph on old monster.
I didn't even disassemble wheel to put it in. Wishing you nice success and to be well. Dood wear all the gear. My 5c opinions.
It's honestly odd, I've gotten one flat in like 36000kms on a motorcycle I routinely locked up the tire on pavement on. And it wasn't at the valve, was a piece of glass or something. Tires shouldn't be spinning on the beads at all.
It's good that you walk away from the crash. It's also good that this problem is not a serious design flaw. I think that is a good wheel. But it is over weight for me so I'll skip this one. It's almost as heavy as me (135lb)
Yeah it's a really heavy wheel 😂 it rides similarly to a Master Pro in many ways, it's hardly comparable to the lynx despite their frequent comparisons.
Im convinced that checking the pressure on my s16 too much ripped the valve stem 😅
I got a flat while riding my ex20 and it caused me to crash as well. Lucky I was only doing 15 mph at the time Was still embarrassing though as i was at a park. Everyone kind of thinks you have it coming riding an EUC. Not like a flat on a bike you lose complete control of the wheel. If you get a flat try to keep the wheel going in a straight line. Any turn and you are going down.
Just some data: My Master Pro V3 has a street motorcycle tire that reads "Tubeless", but has a tube. The air valve is interesting. It's a standard schrader valve, but the valve is straight and threaded, with a retaining ring, like a bicycle Presta valve, or a motorcycle tube. Ewheels said it could be possible to run a tubeless, with my rim and setup, but it's never been done. My tire was underinflated when I got the Master Pro V3 (normal), but doing a standard bicycle pinch test to check inflation with a motorcycle tire is hard to detect, since the tire is thicker and firmer, and even under-inflated it felt O.K. Oh, and a wave to Pidzoom, I love their "Charge Smart" charge monitor. Thank you for sharing your experience - glad it didn't turn out worse.
So I received my cpro 50s with tubeless tire ran tubed, so I pulled out the tube and put a tubeless valve on it. Done.
The C40's rim I put it on isn't meant for it, so I needed to use a strap and lots of bead sealant/lube to do it. My S22 on the other hand was a breeze for TL install, the rim is set up for it
I bet you did this on purpose! There is now a fashion everybody falls, since Dawn's video made millions of views 😜. But you made a mistake, you should wait few days before posting the analysis, so everyone believe you are dead... 😅
Anyhow, as usual, very good and informative video. Kudos.
Dude. The tire was low. The tire spun on the rim and sheered the valve stem off I bet.
That's what I'm leaning toward being the case too 🤕
I knew this wheel would look terrible from a single drop.. some other youtuber said "build quality is robust" also having dents before even riding it. This thing screams where it's made
It looks like the only low pay employee here is you. It's common for valve to be ripped off if riding on flat. Also this unit was airshiped, so if tire was over inflated at the factory it would blow up at high altitude.
It looks like you punctured the tire, it slowly lost pressure and you lost control. I don't see how Begode is at fault here
What makes you think this unit was air shipped?
How did you attached the zafe mirror to an integral helmet? 🤔🤔
Gorilla brand double sided foam tape 🙂
Thank you for this incident report and analysis. Hope you were not injured and recover quickly.
As you know, the EUC lights remained on as you went down. Not sure what that suggests, if anything, w.r.t. cutout.
Can anyone shed light on whether or not this model of wheel can be safely converted to tubeless? Are aftermarket valve stems for tubeless and of suitable shape available? I am not a tire-and-rim guy so don't take this as a suggestion to do it.
I think if I can find the correct size/shape tubeless valve, I can leave the installed tubeless tire on there without issue. This definitely wasn't a cutout, just an unexpected tire blowout. 🙂
@@WheelGoodTime
Another commenter stated that the rim for tubeless is different from the rim for tubed. There might be some dimensional differences and/or differences in the surface roughness of the bead-seat that could affect safety and/or leakage. Another issue to be considered is the possibility of porosity in the (I assume) cast rim, once again setting the stage for leakage. Porosity is frequently an issue with castings in general and especially with castings used to make devices that are to be used to contain pressure, such as valves and etc. One industrial solution is to impregnate such castings with a harden-able liquid but that would be impractical for non-industrial-scale use.
The wheels need to be far more reliable to ride them above10-15mph! Perhaps they should use run-flats.
That would be very expensive. It would also significantly affect ride quality. And add a lot of weight.
Most tubeless tires allow this, when ran without a tube that is.
@@arcflash2053 in CN manufacturing money hardly anything and well worth it the sacrifices.
With every new wheel, I've always done a full tear down and reassembly as soon as it comes out of the box.
Needs TPMS
When you've heard the hissing sound, do you remember if it was already too close (like 1-2 seconds) before the crash happened, or do you think you'll be able to notice and prevent such terrible crash if it happens next time?
Also, maybe such device can help in alerting and preventing such crash? ruclips.net/video/7rJwQGZwpng/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I think a TPMS would be a helpful thing 😊 at this point I'm not quite sure if the pressure was actually incorrect or not. There's someone else that had the exact same incident as me, except they didn't crash and their PSI was 27. That leads me to believe that this batch of inner tubes has some sort of defect, but I'm really not sure. I was definitely able to slow down a little bit before I crashed because something just didn't feel right - and that may have saved me from getting a major injury.
No wrist guards, No wheel check before you ride. Thats a NO NO!! 🙃
my et max came with 0.0 too
Yours came with a totally flat tire?? Weird
@@WheelGoodTime yes, shipped by air :/... but it was round, not flat but 0.0... i did an unboxing video... since t4 many wheels come with little air
My rim broke while I was in the middle of the street. Went down bad.
How did the rim break? That's unfortunate 😞
Get a pidzoom TPMS
Damn, that's unfortunate 😢
This guys says he had the issue at 27 PSI:
ruclips.net/video/_VxBBq3FGv0/видео.htmlfeature=shared
ruclips.net/video/En4MQRec-w8/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Looks like the same issue, right?
Any idea how to avoid this?? Looks very dangerous, and makes me want to return my ET Max back to the store.
Yes, and I've shared that with Begode. Thanks for that!
for the wobbles... take down the pedals
Is there a pedal lowering kit for it already available somewhere? That would be cool to try out. It's just a demo wheel so I won't be getting a lowering kit either way 🙂
@@WheelGoodTime ET MAX by default you can lower 2 LEVELS
@@erCostinha yeah I totally saw that... 🤡 Thanks for pointing that out. I forgot about that 🤣
Crystal clear: a rider error - you should have checked the psi properly.
No reason to blame Begode at all.
So if it comes out of the factory with a dangerously high psi, it's my fault because I didn't QC it myself? 🤣 We don't factually know that it was a dangerously high psi, but I suspect that's the most likely case.
On any new vehicle with pneumatic tires, always check tire pressure prior to first ride/drive.
@@sonyxperiaz3687 yeah lesson learned 😬🤣
The end lesson: design and build quality is only as good as the ASSEMBLY AND ‘quality check’ quality (in this case, the QC sticker is worth slightly less than the paper it’s printed on); you can make a 737 jumbo jet that can fly half way round the world, but if someone doesn’t fix the door properly……ps - if one QC sticker is applied to a wheel that turns out to be not properly ‘checked’, where is the confidence in the other QC ‘checked’ wheels? 🤔
The problem is....ya shoulda been riding Leaperkim. I turbo around at 50 mph day in day out. There is no better wheel. You get what you pay for!
The Lynx is an incredible wheel, isn't it? 😍
There’s a good reason why the then Gotway engineers upped and left to form their own company, Leaperkim, to leave Begode to their ‘own devices’. Just sayin’ 😊
Ahah the leaperkim fanboys, ignoring all their wheels faults. Lynx has been dropping people too. And this crash wasn't due to the euc cutting out, like the lynx has had 🤣 and the lynx is still an amazing machine, wish I had one. I'd go for it over the et max as is covers more bases
@@sirv7937 yeah LK has had its issues also with the Lynx, and it's been all sorted out. Now is the time for the ET Max to get the issues sorted out - after all, it was released after the Lynx. To be fair, they are very very different EUCs. The ET Max rides very similarly to the Master Pro, not the Lynx. The Lynx rides and performs much more similar to a Master V4 than the ET Max.
@@sorvete365 I have the Gotway MSP, which I find reliable and was for me a decent first wheel, a Sherman v2 which is solid of course, and a Sherman ‘S’ which is also just a great wheel. They certainly dropped the ball with the second wheel the Abrams, but as far as Begode are concerned, ever since the Hero, practically ALL of their wheels have come with a world of pain. The ET max seemed finally to be a step in the right direction, but when you cannot trust their QC you might as well not have any, and just advise all riders to go back to stripping down and checking every bolt, like what was required not so long ago.
👍
Just a shit wheel. Lynx for the win
I love my lynx. But I thought the Max was actually pretty good, all things considered before this happened. If I'm not writing off the ET Max just because of this, neither should you 🙂
@WheelGoodTime I was never interested in it to start with lol
My theory is your tyre was too flat and the tyre worked its way around the rim taking the tube with it until the pressure on the valve broke it
Ks for win ? Je retourne ma veste toujours du bon côté... Ridiculous
Bruh you took the words right outta my mouf!
@@electricunipsycho yeah maybe. It was very stiff when I squeezed it and it was just a bit squirrelly as if the tire was overinflated - so I doubt it was under pressurized. But maybe you're right 🤔
I think it is a cut out and begode fault. Our beloved begode
It definitely didn't cut out 😂 I thought it did at first though!
Thats one reason i dislike tubeless tires. Poof and pressure is gone, and you are eating grass
Yeah the same thought came across my mind too 😱
Actually this proves why tubeless is better, and exactly why tubeless is the safest.
Rapid pressure released out the valve, like this, is what tubeless installs solves. A tubeless tire installed with a tube isn't a tubeless install, it's a tubed install.
Tubeless tires are awesome. I ride them on mountain bikes and after 6000 miles has never once had a problem. But I never leave home without checking pressure and doing proper maintenance. And your argument comes up woefully short because the valve stem of the tube and the tube itself are very often the cause of most problems.
Tubeless is better. No doubt
"Poof pressure is gone" Never happens....
Riding a begode = high risk of smth bad actually happening
They all can have issues. The Lynx had cut out issues and major motor knocking issues when it was first released, and look how successful it ended up being. 🙂
Hello again,as I told you before, Begode is a sht brand(dangerous).I am happy to see without damage👍🏻 and again thats why I bought a Lynx and some Inmotions😊
Begode has come a long way in terms of quality and safety in the last few years. I'll be confidently hopping on this wheel as soon as it's repaired, you shouldn't dismiss Begode either just because of this happening either 🙂
@@sorvete365no the lynx has not lmao
@@iShowSpeedsClipperit actually has tho ? Have you been under a rock ? 😂 Lynx is still a great wheel but it has had a fair share of issues
Begode is an amazing brand. They've had issues just like any other company 🤣 you literally wouldn't have a lynx or some inmotions (v14 is literally a copy paste of a Begode wheel) if it weren't for Begode. We wouldn't have the EUCs that we have today if it wasnt for Begode pushing the performance market.
@@sorvete365 literally no evidence lmao that’s the equivalent of me saying the sky was green for an hour trust me
Begode ex c40motor rims are oversize and incorrect for the tyres on them. Hence the roger spacers.
So what impact does that have on the inner tubes and over stretch or blow out.?
My 2 cents.
Never had a wheel from begode that had air in the tyre/shock always come flat as a donkey.
Prototype wheels - high risk to noreward.
American chinese crash dummy "player" i belive is the translated term.
Thanks for helping make the wheel safer.
Interesting, I've never heard about them arriving with flat tires before today. I wonder if they maybe used the incorrect size tube, which was a causative factor. Hmmm
The rims are not oversized for the tyres on them, and the spacers are a racing aid with a street tyre; they generally reduce the gyro effect, especially with a dual sport tyre. The rims don't cause an issue at all.
@@extremedv6219 the c40 rim is a weird size. The Roger spacers help most all tires have their intended profile, rounding them more for easier turning. Currently using the spacers with the shinko 244, much better than without them.
But seriously it's like begode doesn't have anyone ride them during development
crashes = clicks and views. Another irresponsible content creator. Unsubbed . Not a good example to EUC enthusiasts
Please tell me how this crash was irresponsible 😂 did you even watch what happened? I admitted what I should have done in the video, but the crash was out of my control.
@@WheelGoodTime LMAO bro saw the title and thumbnail, posted a rage comment immediately and then left. thats crazy
Unfortunately, in the EUC world, the "crash test dummies" are real people. When I see a crash video, I click to see "what went wrong" and learn from that mistake, in hoping that my new-found knowledge to save me from getting into a crash myself.
I’d like you to point out which part was irresponsible? Which part set a bad example for EUC enthusiasts as you say? It seems like you either didn’t watch the video or you’re a troll. This could have happened to anyone.
I just stopped by to tell this Troll to kick rocks