Porsche Chrome Door Rails & Glass Installation Part-2
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Restoration and rebuilding the Chrome frames and install glass and felts.
A very detailed and complicated process explained with lots of helpful tips.
A must see for the DIY restoration enthusiast!
For materials and supplies used in this video and all other videos please visit
www.amazon.com...
#Porsche #Luftgekult #Aircooled
Hi Mike. One word - perfection. More great work on a stunning Porsche. Well done!
Thanks Dan
Im thrilled with the final results ..Head winds are strong with these doors!
A god of restoration. No peer.
Thank you Lance for the Nobel compliment=)
What a perfect 911 restoration! Greetings from Germany.
Thanks Tom
She's coming out nice!=)
Nice job presenting all the details on the reassembly and install. It’s a lot more complex than one would think. Looks fantastic. 👍👍
Thank 1ocean
These doors were the toughest part of there entire restoration!
Awesome job Mike! Always a real treat when I see you have another video up. The car looks excellent! 😎
Thanks Mark!
Your patience and attention to detail is always impressive to see. Nice work.
Thanks quicktastic
Cheers!
Great job Mike! Your parts are nicer than mine!
Thanks Tom..Im sure glad to see the tail end of these doors..What a work out!!
My goodness, what a job well done Mike
Thanks Phil
Cheers!
Sublime work. Beautiful work
Thank you Rob!
Thank you Mike, these have ALL been so helpful! On the window guides, I was struggling to find the right part numbers and spoke with Pelican (who were really helpful). The top and rear are 901-542-901-21 for the 15mm channel depth. The front is 901-542-902-26 for the 10mm channel depth. My '66 also had a black adhesive on back (not sides) of the channel holding in the guides. I'm very sure that was from the factory. Hope this helps someone down the line.
Thanks for sharing Woodbury! Im sure this will be helpful for others.
The doors and windows are tough!!
Cheers!
Love your work and the attention to absolute detail. So clean as well. Many other car videos could learn from you . Thanks very much. Imagine making this car back in the day in Stuttgart ?
Thanks Graham
Would love to have been part of the Stuttgart production back in the day!
Considering how cars were made back in the day Ferdinand would be amazed at this craftsmanship, this car is gonna better then when it left the showroomfloor
Nice thanks Mike i can't wait for the next vid'
Thanks for tuning in Richard!
Great video, have a perfect day 👍🏻
Thank you Martin You too!
Hi Mike, very useful video! Thank you very much. You are using a little washer for the pivot of the vent window, which is missing on my car. It looks some special washer. You know what material it is or why I can find these. Using the original Porsche parts number, it always shows NLA.
Hello Yes the original washer was a phenolic spacer for the chrome to glide on and ware against.
I think Sierra madre has some after market versions that are made of plastic or nylon.
try giving them a look and I think you will be able to find what you re looking for
Good Luck!
Great Video Mike. I'm going to be adjusting my door gaps soon. Did you do a video on that? I'm putting in new rocker panels and door latch panels. As well as a new fender mounting panel in front of the door hinge panel. I guess I will be tacking the rocker in and the latch panel in at the same time to adjust them where they need to be. Then I will throw on the front fender to make sure I can line it up to the front of the door.
Thanks Rodney.
I did do some panel gaps explaining in my early mock up and body work videos. They are long and boring and terrible but might have some useful information in there.
Sounds like your situation will require a full panel bare metal mockup just to work out any issues before heading to paint.
After paint The adjustments will be minimal with shims and micro adjusting.
Best of luck with this big task!!
Outstanding! What one would give for some original factory jigs for all of that! Just seems so difficult to balance all of those aspects perfectly, with reproduction parts, and new paint and plating, and then keeping in mind the weight and balance of the door to the body. Phew! I wonder does it get better or worse once it has had a good baking in the sun? Thanks for all your hard work and sharing!
Thanks Christopher and you are very welcome=) These were tough!
Absolutely not forgiving in any measure..some factory jigs and a second pair of hands would sure be helpful
I think we should be okay when she hits the sun and warms up..The hard felts will probably settle into place nicely when some heats kicks in.
Cant wait to get the finished panels in place and see what the finished look is!
Cheers!
Bravo 👍👍👍
Cheers!
Mike, amazing and detailed work as usual. Why impose a 20 min limit on the vid?
Hello Ali Imam
Thats a good question.. Metrics revel no interest in videos longer than 20 min.
The Algorithm stops circulation the video and runs down the channel.
Hi Mike, pure class. Never stop! One question: 5:35. What is the distance between the mark on the glass pane and the left edge of the glass pane? How do you know this measurement?
Hi Daniel, 1 5/8 was what I had marked on the glass with a sharpie. I think if my memory serves me you do have some
fore and aft range from that measurement. I would say 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 should get you working properly .
Trying a mock up first is always a good idea.
Good Luck!
@@MikesRestorations Many thanks! In the next few days, I will first install the headliner. Thanks to your other video, of course, no problem at all. :)
@@DanielReiser Good Luck Daniel!
Hi Mike - what is the red grease that you use for all the window fittings? Also, did you drill out the copper rivets and replace them for the joint fittings when you re-chromed the frames?
Hello Charles. I use two red grease types depending on what I'm using it for. If its grease from a small white tub that would be red rubber grease by Castrol. It is a mineral based grease. The other grease I use is a general purpose petroleum based grease by Valvoline. This one is used for more heavy duty work and is now almost impossible to fine. Any general purpose grease will work fine as a substitute. Im not sure exactly what rivets you are referring to on the Frames? Can you be more specific or do you have a picture?
MIke, how did you decide on the position of the lifter rail on the door window glass before committing with the adhesive
?
Hello Ian
It will require a mock up in the door to verify the end set backs are correct for your application.
You will need to dry fit to approximation first and then slide the chrome rails down over the assembly.
From there you will see exactly what's needed with close inspection. It does have some forgiveness on adjustment front to back
but too far either direction and it will come out of the rollers
Good luck!
Great sign off - the clunk of quality.
Thanks Tom
Its a very gratifying thud!=)
Nice and meticulous restoration on that 911!!!!! I have a question- I have a ‘67 and keep having an air leak coming from the driver’s side front quarter window- changed seals 3 Times to no avail- brought it here to 2 body shops- the air leak comes from the front lower corner of the vent window. Do you have any idea on what could I try to fix? Thanks a bunch!!!!!
Thanks Aimone..
Lets assume you have a genuine Porsche seal which would be best for the window and is in new supple condition.
My guess would be the hold and lock tab on the inside of the window frame. being that it is the drivers side, it has probably moved slightly over the years from excessive use. I would look there and see if you could bend the hold position so that it draws the window in tighter. Its brass core so an extremely hot day would be the safest bet to bend it inward until the window pulls shut.
I don't recommend trying to bend it cold as you could damage it but nice and warm I bet it moves just enough to cure the problem.
Good luck and please let us know if this works!
Hey Thanks Mike for your advise- I will do that it’s starting to get warm here in Florence, Italy- my seal is from Porsche- the first one was from International Mercantile-and I didn’t like it too much- then Porsche decided to reproduce the seal - I try to use OEM Porsche parts whenever possible to avoid having any additional problems incurred by Ill fitting parts. I will let you know how it all works out when I bend slightly the plate. My car is for the next 2 weeks at the body shop here to have the S Deco moulding under door added on my ‘67. Take Care!
@@aimonecastellacci1618 Wow Florence Italy! What a cool place to live
Aimone one more thought on what might be causing your window to hang up.. I looked at mine last night in detail and can see where some excessive bulk in rubber could be the issue as well. The pivot stem on the bottom has quite a bit of unnecessarily bulging rubber right where the pivot goes thru the rubber. You might have a close look there and see if trimming out some thick spots will do the job. The other place to look would be at the top pivot point. Same issue could be there also
Mike, where did you get the seal between the side window and metal channel 6:25/21.52
Channel part number 901 542 045 23 and the rubber seal 911 542 491 40 but how do you get the old one off?
a little bit of heat and gravity
Hello David
The seal is Genuine Porsche from Porsche but any of this major suppliers should have this one available.
Its been a few years since removing the old seal I don't quite remember what I used to remove it but solvent and putty knife
show be helpful. Lacquer thinner/ gasoline
Good Luck!
What is the model # of the DAP product that you used
Dynaflex Ultra DAP black
Hi David..cant find a product number on it but here is a link to the product. Good Luck!
www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/caulks-sealants/latex/dynaflex-ultra/
I was the 100th like.
Thanks for the like Gplus! and congratulations=)