Ordered one of these Rugers when they were introduced. The stock creeked and flexed so bad i couldn't stand to shoot it. Sold it at a loss before i started throwing cash at it trying to fix it. Very happy with the CZ i bought to replace it. If i want a longer bolt throw i have centerfires to practice with.
A few months ago I installed a PSA SSA 3.5" Match grade drop in in my AR what a difference, my groups improved immediately, my original mill spec was closer to 7 lb that 6 lbs . I liked it so much I got one for my MK111 11.5" again a huge improvement on accuracy, in hindsight I should have done it sooner. I like your star's an strips job very nice rifle !
You are so right. Just put the Timney in my CZ457MTR and what a difference. Next will be in my Bergara B-14. Try Center X in your Ruger. Mine loves it.
Norma Tac 22 in black box. It's going for anywhere between 7 to 10 bucks a box if you have an academy near you they generally have a bunch of that stuff. This thing will come to life it starts shooting some decent groups I had trouble with mine I could never find anything decent to shoot to it until I got a hold of that stuff
I too noticed that the magazines affect accuracy. I feel like the next round in the magazine is pushing up on the bottom of the bolt. With different amounts of pressure depending on how many rounds are left. Which leads to varying results. I am lucky enough to have a pile of 10/22 mags. So when I’m shooting for dead on accuracy, I just load one round per mag. In doing so I get much more consistent results. Hope this helps cheers!
The difference in accuracy between the mags more than likely has something to do with how the cartridge is fed into the chamber and how much the soft lead is damaged or if the bullet is pushed out of alignment ever so slightly.
Which magazine is supposedly more accurate? I can understand what you're saying about the lead being damaged. I notice that when shooting my cheaper .22lr
@@pietroots I'm not sure, I havent done any testing to say one type of magazine is better than another. Honestly, it's more than likely dependent on tolerance of the mags during the manufacturing process (how high the mag is in the gun, feed angle, how the mag presents the cartridge, flashing present on the feed lips). However I don't have any data to support this theory and is just an educated guess based on how mags work and what has the potential to affect accuracy while the cartridge is being fed into the chamber. I've heard of different magazines shooting better than others in the AR platform from a shotshow interview with the owner of Falkor Defense, which peaked my interest and I wouldn't be surprised if it would affect rimfire due to needing much tighter tolerance for it to feed reliably. I'm planning on testing it on my precision AR-15 here before too long but I'll have to get a couple more mags and time away from work.
Its most of the time the bolt being to sharp on the bullets, you can hone the pick up edges and it will be way better. Then the rotary magazine works totally ok.
The 15 round mag is by far the most consistent. The 30rd mag due to its weight tilts slightly and causes loading issues as well as damage to the nose of the round. The ‘mini mag’ is IMO not much better than the 15. The 30 round mag can be improved by adding material to the front of the magazine so it can’t tilt (silicon,a small piece of loop side Velcro fabric,even a hot glue spot that can be lightly sanded to the right height.)
Great video! I just bought a RPR in 17HMR. Tomorrow will be my first range day with it. I am looking forward to shooting it. I like Timney triggers, I dropped them in on a couple of Nagant builds I have done. BTW, I love that shop setup, with the shooting down range from inside on the bench.
@@chipsammich2078 I have one in .22 mag and everyone I have let shoot it loves it. I have put 4 or 5000 rounds through it in a year so I'd say I like it a lot
The factory trigger is adjustable. That's the deciding reason i bought the riffle. Did you try adjusting the trigger weight? Mine is at 2.5 lb after adjustments. The wrench is under the cover on the buttstock. riffle shoots 1/2 moa at 100 yards, MOST DAYS.
Couple questions. When are you going to make some more videos? Second, I have that Timney trigger in my Ruger precision rimfire. What they call an 8oz take up in the first stage, I call creep. It is 8oz but then you hit the wall and mine breaks at 1.5 lbs. Have you tried to adjust that takeup and have you tried to get under 1.5lb?
Ive been building a ruger precision rimfire in 22 lr. And my rifle in particular tends to like the SK standard plus more than SK red or tan box. Lapua super long range it liked more but do to budjeting i dont run it. Im also curious on your comment about the trigger being heavy, given it is an adjustable trigger you never mentioned having adjusted it. Ive compared my rpr to another rifle with timney after adjusting the trigger to roughly 2.25 lbs. And of course the timney was crisper but the stock rpr was actually quite comparable. Would love to talk more about it given im fairly new to NRL matches. Also i have an E.C. gen 1 tuner coming for it, but my current groupings at 50 yards are roughly 1"-1½" depending on me, 100 yards i have yet to collect proper data but it will consistently ring a 3" steel gong at 100 yards.
Mine seems to love fed auto match and cci blaster standard velocity haven’t got to try any of the high end match stuff yet as I can’t bring myself to pay the Covid premium until I start actually competing… j I’m jus wish someone would make an aftermarket stock/chassis for the barreled action because the adjustments suck and the buttstock as a whole jus sucks but yet you have no options besides start over and I can’t afford that
@@Pipizzakitchen yes but no matter how or where I set it it isn’t good at all, mine will not go below 2.5 which is to heavy for me. Now maybe it’s this particular gun, but
@@22lr_plinking no, I think that's the low end. I thought it was pretty light. I haven't done any really long range shooting with it though. How low do you guys usually set your triggers?
@@midwest_long_range that's a pretty lightweight for a personal preference but I think the original rpr went down to 2.5 mine goes a little below that 1 lb might be a little light you said you were building it for your son
You can tinker yourself with the trigger, take out the spring and replace it with a lighter one, be sure it stays safe. Also put some shims to reduce the sideway movement of the trigger and hone the edges so it does have a smooth movement without feeling resistance during the pull. If this is done and still not satisfied it’s time for a Timney.
@@midwest_long_range bummer. Very cool but bummer as I was unaware and just bought one in "evil assault black." Beautiful gun dude, I am absolutely jealous. 👍🇺🇲
@@midwest_long_range which you can tinker by replacing the spring for a lighter one, be sure it returns in the safe position when you want to shoot but don’t for one reason or another, you can check that on the side where there is a small hole where you can see the mechanism. If it doesn’t return it’s unsafe so be sure to check.
I have to absolutely disagree. My RPR 22lr and my RPR Gen2 308 are great and accurate machines straight out of the box. I have matching Riton 6-24 ×50Ri Scopes on them.
a waste of money, the stock trigger is great, I shoot 1/2 inch black bugs @100yards on the move. but I also have a green mountain 24 inch barrel. and I only shoot Fiocchi 40 gr
Pretty big oversight by Ruger making the forearm tube not attached to the chassis. Being attached to the action is foolish. Try shooting without loading your bipod. I have a feeling it would shoot better just based on the goofy half chassis system they got going on. If it were a one piece chassis or the forearm tube attached only to the chassis itself loading the bipod would be helpful to you without harmful to the rifle. But by design the bipod might as well be attached to the barrel
RPR’s look cool, but they are junk. Get yourself a CZ457 Pro Varmint. You can decrease the trigger effort in any 457 by changing the trigger spring. No need for an overpriced M-Carbo spring or aftermarket trigger. Just use the flint spring from a BIC lighter, cut down to size. Polish the trigger sear while it’s out and Bob’s your Uncle. You’ll kick yourself for ever considering the plastic RPR.
Rpr trigger from factory goes to 2.250# I mean the range you can shoot a time doesn’t justify having it really any lower than that and I love the cz but for the price and what you get the rpr in 17hmr is amazing out the box with lpvo now tuner I have held consistent 5/8 groups at 100 yards and grind it to be and amazing rifle only thing I really feel could be better is the tolerance in the bolt to action
Did you consider running the stock trigger? You can adjust the pull. Also stock they are really ammo picky. You have to do a burn down to get the barrel used to the ammo you’re running
7:20 I think a better question is why are you trying to disassemble the firearm without it being on safe? I get it, the bolt is out, but step #1 always, clear the firearm, put it on safe, start disassembly. Not even just for safety, but you can genuinely cause damage to many firearms should you accidently discharge them while in a partially disassembled state.
@@404-Error-Not-Found i didnt miss shit.. mine simply "will not" go into safe mode if its not cocked... lever wont at all move to that position. Not a choice at all. Witch may be the case saftey sam
Your finger is your safety, any other gadget or switch on there is a government talking point. Most foolish thing ever added to a firearm is a safety. False sense of security. Just like you and this comment. Thinking that a safety should even be considered when the bolt is removed from the gun is hilarious at best.
Ordered one of these Rugers when they were introduced.
The stock creeked and flexed so bad i couldn't stand to shoot it. Sold it at a loss before i started throwing cash at it trying to fix it. Very happy with the CZ i bought to replace it. If i want a longer bolt throw i have centerfires to practice with.
Dad of the year award, well done sir, bringing them up right. I'm 60 and my son is 40 and we still have a blast shooting together.
Thank you sir I appreciate it
A few months ago I installed a PSA SSA 3.5" Match grade drop in in my AR what a difference, my groups improved immediately, my original mill spec was closer to 7 lb that 6 lbs . I liked it so much I got one for my MK111 11.5" again a huge improvement on accuracy, in hindsight I should have done it sooner. I like your star's an strips job very nice rifle !
I run CMC single stage flat 3.5lb triggers in pretty much everything. But I do have one from PSA too with the same specs and it’s just as good
Great video, my rpr likes Norm Tac pretty good. Looking forward to seeing what the tuner will do!
Already got it filmed just working on the prepping the video
You are so right. Just put the Timney in my CZ457MTR and what a difference. Next will be in my Bergara B-14. Try Center X in your Ruger. Mine loves it.
I just got a brick of center x I’m testing in my vudoo 360 it’s doing pretty good so far.
@@midwest_long_range My b-14 loves SK semi auto. It shot the best 50yd group I’ve ever shot with a 22rifle.
Norma Tac 22 in black box. It's going for anywhere between 7 to 10 bucks a box if you have an academy near you they generally have a bunch of that stuff. This thing will come to life it starts shooting some decent groups I had trouble with mine I could never find anything decent to shoot to it until I got a hold of that stuff
My ruger precision liked norma black box as well.
I too noticed that the magazines affect accuracy. I feel like the next round in the magazine is pushing up on the bottom of the bolt. With different amounts of pressure depending on how many rounds are left. Which leads to varying results. I am lucky enough to have a pile of 10/22 mags. So when I’m shooting for dead on accuracy, I just load one round per mag. In doing so I get much more consistent results. Hope this helps cheers!
The bolts locked up. I don’t think msg pressure effects that but who knows. You need a match chamber and match ammo to really keep it consistent.
The difference in accuracy between the mags more than likely has something to do with how the cartridge is fed into the chamber and how much the soft lead is damaged or if the bullet is pushed out of alignment ever so slightly.
Which magazine is supposedly more accurate? I can understand what you're saying about the lead being damaged. I notice that when shooting my cheaper .22lr
@@pietroots I'm not sure, I havent done any testing to say one type of magazine is better than another. Honestly, it's more than likely dependent on tolerance of the mags during the manufacturing process (how high the mag is in the gun, feed angle, how the mag presents the cartridge, flashing present on the feed lips). However I don't have any data to support this theory and is just an educated guess based on how mags work and what has the potential to affect accuracy while the cartridge is being fed into the chamber.
I've heard of different magazines shooting better than others in the AR platform from a shotshow interview with the owner of Falkor Defense, which peaked my interest and I wouldn't be surprised if it would affect rimfire due to needing much tighter tolerance for it to feed reliably. I'm planning on testing it on my precision AR-15 here before too long but I'll have to get a couple more mags and time away from work.
Its most of the time the bolt being to sharp on the bullets, you can hone the pick up edges and it will be way better. Then the rotary magazine works totally ok.
The 15 round mag is by far the most consistent. The 30rd mag due to its weight tilts slightly and causes loading issues as well as damage to the nose of the round. The ‘mini mag’ is IMO not much better than the 15. The 30 round mag can be improved by adding material to the front of the magazine so it can’t tilt (silicon,a small piece of loop side Velcro fabric,even a hot glue spot that can be lightly sanded to the right height.)
That's some good shooting. I looked at this gun, but ended up going with the Christensen Arms Ranger. I like it, but it is very picky with ammo.
I'm looking at this LR as my first gun. Thanks for your video :)
That being said, I’m not sure that one 5-shot group in wind constitutes a baseline.
Great video! I just bought a RPR in 17HMR. Tomorrow will be my first range day with it. I am looking forward to shooting it. I like Timney triggers, I dropped them in on a couple of Nagant builds I have done. BTW, I love that shop setup, with the shooting down range from inside on the bench.
Thanks man, good luck with the 17.
Let's hear an update
@@chipsammich2078 I have one in .22 mag and everyone I have let shoot it loves it. I have put 4 or 5000 rounds through it in a year so I'd say I like it a lot
Two good products both made in Arizona.
The factory trigger is adjustable. That's the deciding reason i bought the riffle. Did you try adjusting the trigger weight? Mine is at 2.5 lb after adjustments. The wrench is under the cover on the buttstock. riffle shoots 1/2 moa at 100 yards, MOST DAYS.
Good showing...
Have the .22mag. Likes Hornady 45 grain self defense stuff
Really? I might have to try that. I have the 22 mag as well and the best groups I've gotten with it were with 40 grain Federal Champion.
Couple questions. When are you going to make some more videos? Second, I have that Timney trigger in my Ruger precision rimfire. What they call an 8oz take up in the first stage, I call creep. It is 8oz but then you hit the wall and mine breaks at 1.5 lbs. Have you tried to adjust that takeup and have you tried to get under 1.5lb?
Great content man
Thank you
How do I fix the horrible ejection issue on mine? They're known for it. I have to snatch the bolt back really fast to eject.
Install an FJ Feddersen barrel on it and watch the magic happen
WOW! 22S AND STRIPPER MUSIC, THUMB DOWM
Ive been building a ruger precision rimfire in 22 lr. And my rifle in particular tends to like the SK standard plus more than SK red or tan box. Lapua super long range it liked more but do to budjeting i dont run it. Im also curious on your comment about the trigger being heavy, given it is an adjustable trigger you never mentioned having adjusted it. Ive compared my rpr to another rifle with timney after adjusting the trigger to roughly 2.25 lbs. And of course the timney was crisper but the stock rpr was actually quite comparable. Would love to talk more about it given im fairly new to NRL matches. Also i have an E.C. gen 1 tuner coming for it, but my current groupings at 50 yards are roughly 1"-1½" depending on me, 100 yards i have yet to collect proper data but it will consistently ring a 3" steel gong at 100 yards.
Mine seems to love fed auto match and cci blaster standard velocity haven’t got to try any of the high end match stuff yet as I can’t bring myself to pay the Covid premium until I start actually competing… j I’m jus wish someone would make an aftermarket stock/chassis for the barreled action because the adjustments suck and the buttstock as a whole jus sucks but yet you have no options besides start over and I can’t afford that
Did you do the giveaway haven't seen anything about it.
Yes sir in the beginning of the vudoo vs. cz dueling tree video I announced the winner of the scope. I plan to have more giveaways coming soon
👍👍 good video thanks. I’m trying to decide between the trigger tech or the timney for my rpr factory trigger isn’t good at all imo.
Agreed I don’t think you can go wrong either way but I definitely have a preference lol
You realize it's adjustable, right?
@@Pipizzakitchen yes but no matter how or where I set it it isn’t good at all, mine will not go below 2.5 which is to heavy for me. Now maybe it’s this particular gun, but
@@22lr_plinking no, I think that's the low end. I thought it was pretty light. I haven't done any really long range shooting with it though. How low do you guys usually set your triggers?
@@Pipizzakitchen both of my others are set at 1pound which is perfect for me on the bench I can go lower but no need to
Why didn’t you adjust the trigger or even mention that in the video. Before you changed it out.
Sir maybe you would know this off the top of your head. What’s the length of the rifle with butt stock adjustments fully collapse?
Every other video I have watched had sub moa results with a stock rifle so I’m kinda confused about what happened here
Gun was having some issues we are going to revisit it in the near future
It was the music that threw off those shots.
What are you doing with that scope looking at Mars
What scope did you mount on the rifle?
I wonder what would happen if you were to test it without the brake
I didn’t have the tuner brake on it for this video, the video that comes out tomorrow will show it with the tuner brake.
Where did you get the cerakote for this
This is actually a factory option from ruger
What was the difference in the poundage between the original adjustable Ruger trigger and the timney
I have the new trigger set at 1 pound and the old one was about 4 maybe just under.
@@midwest_long_range that's a pretty lightweight for a personal preference but I think the original rpr went down to 2.5 mine goes a little below that 1 lb might be a little light you said you were building it for your son
@@jerrycandelaria8845 it’s 2 stage so first stage half pound 2nd stage 1 pound. My personal triggers in my target guns are 8 ounces
You can tinker yourself with the trigger, take out the spring and replace it with a lighter one, be sure it stays safe. Also put some shims to reduce the sideway movement of the trigger and hone the edges so it does have a smooth movement without feeling resistance during the pull. If this is done and still not satisfied it’s time for a Timney.
Folding stock ideas please?
I love the 'come and take' spartan flag.
Tell me about how you got that graphic on that weapon please. 👍🇺🇲
ruger sells that as an optional finish.
@@midwest_long_range bummer. Very cool but bummer as I was unaware and just bought one in "evil assault black." Beautiful gun dude, I am absolutely jealous. 👍🇺🇲
The stock 2.5# trigger is "really heavy?"
Yep that’s my opinion.. average trigger weight I’m used to is 8oz
If you had to chose between the RPR and the cz457 which would you chose?
Cz457 100%
the stock trigger is really heavy ? are you kidding
Doesn’t the stock trigger have weight adjustment built in?
yes but it is not as consistent as the timney and does not adjust down as low.
@@midwest_long_range which you can tinker by replacing the spring for a lighter one, be sure it returns in the safe position when you want to shoot but don’t for one reason or another, you can check that on the side where there is a small hole where you can see the mechanism. If it doesn’t return it’s unsafe so be sure to check.
Somehow Ruger and precision don't go in the same sentence.
I have to absolutely disagree.
My RPR 22lr and my RPR Gen2 308 are great and accurate machines straight out of the box.
I have matching Riton 6-24 ×50Ri Scopes on them.
Neither do I, my RAR LRT is as sharp as they come..
You don’t know much about ruger then…
Whats the scope
Riton conquer 5-25x50
What scope is that?
Riton X5 conquer 5-25x50
minimal scope is 6x24x50 mm mil mil
a waste of money, the stock trigger is great, I shoot 1/2 inch black bugs @100yards on the move. but I also have a green mountain 24 inch barrel. and I only shoot Fiocchi 40 gr
OMG......
Not in the same universe with a Bergara B14R.
No they are not.
$500 bucks cheaper though
@@nicholasbroadhurst9096 money does not matter when you are wanting to win matches.
Don't need the noise on the intro
Nothing worse than a fuzzy down range camera because it ruins the whole experience of watching your videos.
I want to make the commit that the safety has to be in the neutral position meaning the safety needs to be centered in its housing.
Pretty big oversight by Ruger making the forearm tube not attached to the chassis. Being attached to the action is foolish. Try shooting without loading your bipod. I have a feeling it would shoot better just based on the goofy half chassis system they got going on. If it were a one piece chassis or the forearm tube attached only to the chassis itself loading the bipod would be helpful to you without harmful to the rifle. But by design the bipod might as well be attached to the barrel
Ruger makes good pistols not a fan of there rifles
RPR’s look cool, but they are junk. Get yourself a CZ457 Pro Varmint. You can decrease the trigger effort in any 457 by changing the trigger spring. No need for an overpriced M-Carbo spring or aftermarket trigger. Just use the flint spring from a BIC lighter, cut down to size. Polish the trigger sear while it’s out and Bob’s your Uncle. You’ll kick yourself for ever considering the plastic RPR.
Rpr trigger from factory goes to 2.250# I mean the range you can shoot a time doesn’t justify having it really any lower than that and I love the cz but for the price and what you get the rpr in 17hmr is amazing out the box with lpvo now tuner I have held consistent 5/8 groups at 100 yards and grind it to be and amazing rifle only thing I really feel could be better is the tolerance in the bolt to action
Did you consider running the stock trigger? You can adjust the pull. Also stock they are really ammo picky. You have to do a burn down to get the barrel used to the ammo you’re running
7:20 I think a better question is why are you trying to disassemble the firearm without it being on safe?
I get it, the bolt is out, but step #1 always, clear the firearm, put it on safe, start disassembly. Not even just for safety, but you can genuinely cause damage to many firearms should you accidently discharge them while in a partially disassembled state.
Most of my firearms wont go on safe unless cocked and locked so.....wtf is the point if the bolt is out?
@@theman-pc2ej well how about you re-read my comment again since you missed the point.
@@404-Error-Not-Found i didnt miss shit.. mine simply "will not" go into safe mode if its not cocked... lever wont at all move to that position. Not a choice at all. Witch may be the case saftey sam
Your finger is your safety, any other gadget or switch on there is a government talking point. Most foolish thing ever added to a firearm is a safety. False sense of security. Just like you and this comment. Thinking that a safety should even be considered when the bolt is removed from the gun is hilarious at best.