I made a handmade water cooler block for less than $0.20 out of a box of scraps that I made in 2001 and it still works to today it really isn't that hard
It stresses me out that the $40,000 camera is sitting in the same container i store my Christmas decorations in, and also looks like a pile of rubbage.
Those grooves are not to guide the fluid, they increase the surface area in order to aid heat transfer. There is a noticeable difference between a smooth block and a finned block as you increase the load and radiator size.
Also, if you fit an o-ring too tightly, it can't compress correctly for a good fit. You have to leave room in the groove for it to expand. The best result is when the depth and width of the groove perfectly fit the squished o-ring at a spec'd pressure as the parts come into contact.
And you could litterially do it with a chisel and a hammer and a little time. The bottom also needs to be properly lapped, and that's seriously time consuming if you do it by hand.
13:15 As an aircraft mechanic I can assure you that air transport is a hell of a lot safer than car transport. The level of planned maintenance on aircraft is probably only exceeded by rocket maintenance. In the aero transport business no-one is gonna ignore an check-engine-light for any amount of time, the groove depth of the tires are checked on a per flight basis. Same goes for oil level. On a side note, watching you guys using tools like thread-taps and such, gives me a nervous twitch. I just wanna slap those tools out your hands. For me watching these videos, is like others that like to watch horror movies, or go into haunted houses. Very uncomfortable, but afterwards I can just laugh at it. :)
@omgwtf696969 Without further details your comparison is meaningless. What type of parts are you referring to? Quality control for different parts has different tests depending on material, operational conditions (temperature, pressure, environmental hazards etc.) So unless you are talking about manufacturing the EXACT same part, for two different industries, the comparison has no influence on my post.
Some mild difference between maintainance and design when it comes to aircraft, they are designed with very narrow safety margins because excess weight is an aircraft's achilles' heel, the difference between that and a car is that an aircraft is designed to "soft fail" so any failure that does occur is rarely critical and those components are designed to fail after a certain amount of time so that a technician can specifically look at them periodically to maintain the aircraft. Road vehicles on the other hand, are less designed for that mode of failure, as excess weight isn't a crippling factor in the function of the vehicle, instead they are designed to withstand certain stresses and not fail or show signs of failure; meaning that they are more likely to break in a pseudo-random fasion. I can almost guarantee that aeronautical parts are of higher quality than automotive parts, simply because the materials and tolerances are far more strict than in a road vehicle and the processes that produce them are controlled far better too. Quite simply; if a car fails, you don't drop from 36000ft at 2-300mph into the ground. Aircraft, however...
So a few pointers for working in acrylic and making water blocks. 1. When you machine acrylic or poly, the surface will get "frosty" you can put the part through a process called "Flame polishing" that will give the part a mirror smooth finish. 2. When tapping with a bit like that, it's suggested that you try to get it as level as you can. To make it super easy you can take a drill press and insert the bit into the chuck and then spin the chuck by hand to tap the acrylic. 3. With an o ring like that you want about 1-2mm of the o-ring above the top of the c channel you cut. You may want to base this off your o-ring material though. Hope these help!
As a non-machinist, seeing all of these machinists trying to help Linus and his team to more properly utilize the tools they are using for their projects is great... But let's be honest, it wouldn't be as entertaining if they actually knew what they were doing.
True, but whenever they try to touch a tool or talk about how to do something an engineer or machinist somewhere dies somewhere due to the shear force of the face palm required.
In industry we call more precise tolerances "high tolerance" which now that I think of it doesnt make total sense but yeah that's just how it is trust me I work on CAD every day. I think the reason it's like that is because the "high" in "high tolerance" is not referring to the amount of range that is accepted as a dimension, but is saying the tolerance has a high standard. Like it's an important tolerance.
Precision and tolerance are very often wrongfully interchanged by laymen around the globe...it gets worse when you add clearance and interference in the mix and waaaay worse when you add roughness, form deviation, true position etc etc...I really believe that using the right words in the right order is really important in this industry (my humble engineer/machinist opinion) to communicate the right result. I've seen engineers who couldn't grasp the concept of a high precision (low tolerance) clearance fit such these found in air bearings...
@@Sketch1994 yeah definitely, took me a while to learn a lot of the terminology and concepts. But I'm no engineer, im a hydraulics technician that sometimes has to draw up parts to be made so your opinion is definitely more valid than mine
if tolerance = "an allowable amount of variation", then high tolerance = high amount of variation, and low tolerance = low amount of variation. I think you'd want a low amount of variation on a highly precise part.
Guys. Machining copper, aluminum, brass, etc is all Very easy. How fast are you running your spindle? O ring grooves need +/- several thou for a good seal. You're not sealing N2 or He2 at 2000 psi. They're not necessarily all that sensitive to tolerance. One could probably use an engraving bit for the small channels on over the CPU. Man Linus. That tap is way crooked. Probably use a larger bit and a slower speed.
Using CA glue on o-rings Is actually a good way to make orings. Mine seal a vacuum chamber very freaking well and a buddy worked at a place that made them seal in 10k psi hydraulic forming machines.
Safety factor under 10%... *Cringe 1. That's not a factor. That's a percentage. 2. Plane S.F. are usually around 1.4 and up. That's commercial aircraft. So under the most demanding possibility hundreds of experienced engineers and over 100 years of flight can come up with; they multiply that stress by 1.4 and build to that. Then test... Extensively. Then hopefully your airline company maintains their planes. Most of them do a good job at that.
Lubrication whilst machining is a thing. Copper shouldn't be all that difficult honestly. Annealing copper might make it easier to cut with the CNC bits as well. But in general most metal workers will indeed put a drop every so often while drilling and machining.
Copper is not difficult. Something like copper would absolutely benefit from oil. Annealing it actually makes it more difficult to machine due to it already being soft and gummy.
For machining copper, quality cutters and proper speeds and feeds help (look in the machinery's handbook) BUT the best thing you can do to help yourself out is material selection. Specifically, the general purpose Copper 110 alloy is terrible for machining, it is sticky, chewy, and overall unpleasant, whereas Copper 145 aka Tellurium Copper is the easiest alloy to machine and yields significantly better results. Other routes you can take is to use a free machining brass such as Brass 360, Aluminum 2011, and Aluminum 6020 as they are also excellent for machining but are also of significantly lower thermal conductivity than copper, so you would be forced to do very fancy details to get the surface area up to match a relatively simple pattern or even flat plate of copper.
Very good points. I also think a spindle speed reducer is needed to allow them to cut copper more cleanly. It looks like their turret is a cheaper high RPM only one for cutting wood and plastic.
Copper and aluminum.... Spray with wd40 or crc while cutting.....Make sure your taking deep cuts that throw chips/swarf even if the tool is very small it must cut enough to produce a decent swarf amount otherwise the tip will get to hot, the material will go buttery and bind to the tool. Don't try low feed rates unless you have very low spindle speeds. If a 1mm tool was to be used id start at 70,000 rpm at 700mm/min (100mm per 10000rpm @ 1mm tool diameter) for copper with occasional sprays of wd40 and constant air cooling. At 1mm tool tips the high speed can make the tool more rigid to deflection, just like how a dremil running at 30,000 rpm will steady a .5mm drill bit better then running at 500rpm. You can also get coatings for tools to reduce brazing of copper to tool like Chromium Nitride.
they really need cooling and lubrication if they want something decent out of that copper with that machine, it might not be enough, but the result would improve for sure, and yeah coated tools as mentioned above
I internally cringe and get uneasy whenever I see expensive hardware being treated the way these guys do sometimes. But then again to me you must treat every single piece like glass 😂
For me at a minimal Get a flat rubbermaid container, put all parts into bags, any bolts into smalelr bags and put those inside the parts bag. and lay them all out inside the container. thats a minimal... But that said, im sure there stuff is fineand will be fine, but shit happens and most of us cant stomach a loss like that.
Your CNC router has plenty of spindle speed available to cut the copper, but the lack of coolant might be a large cause for issues. Even if you stand there and blow on it with compressed air, it would be better than nothing...but if you hook up a mist coolant system then it'd be even better. Even spritzing it by hand might work, but it'll make a mess. Mist coolant will also make a mess of course (in the direction the nozzle is pointing) but you do what you gotta do!
Machining the acrylic flat, when acrylic easily is flat enough for the application. Using a clamp as a tap wrench, thereby putting a strange sideways torque on it, risking it getting oval-ish threads. (yes, this is a thing.) Gluing together an O-ring and being nearly 50% off. (this is a potential leak source, though a water cooling loop might not have enough pressure to make this a big issue.) Well, I have seen many horrors the last 20 minutes apparently.... Though, at least they greased up the O-ring, something that even larger operations don't do for far more expensive products.
I've machined acrylic more than a few times. Thickness can sometimes vary 2-3 mm over a meter length on a '8mm' thick sheet. I would have machined it too when the part is already on the CNC table. The glued o-ring is terrible. It may not leak immediate. But the pressure combined with deteriorating rubber will cause the bond to break eventually. Also, they should have tapped with a drill-press as bit holder. Then you're always straight.
The funny part is that the one compliment you gave them is still wrong, petroleum on o-rings is worse than not lubricating since it cause them to deteriorate.
@@GoldyMcGoldface If rubber/silicone O-rings deteriorated when in contact with petroleum/hydrocarbons, then all hydraulics equipment would start leaking fairly quickly after manufacturing. The main reason equipment starts leaking is due to physical wear and abrasion. Though yes, there are O-rings made of plastics. (and most plastics dissolve in oils/grease. (And it is from here the large misnomer about o-rings deteriorating in oils comes from.))
@@todayonthebench I'll concede that their o-rings may be made of a polymer that is safe for use with petroleum based products, however rubber is 100% not compatible with them.
I love Alex in video. He does need Linus to act as heel, but I love that Alex is just given a project and then just allowed to tinker away until he has it ready.
I made my own blocks back when there were little to no commercial products. Gave up on copper and used alu only for ease of machining. I had manual machines only, the o-ring groove was turned on a lathe. You can increase area by aligning the block vertically and using a slitting cutter to make the grooves, it will make a huge difference.
This is more like their 20th try. They used to have a series on making custom heat sinks before Linus got tired of spending money and getting beat out by cheap Chinese coolers. It was very, very horrifying to watch. (Seriously, look it up.) Also, this would be a good effort on its own. The real WTF is that they disassembled a Red camera and are using this as a dry run to try water cooling it. Just so horrifying...
Yeah, anyone who has worked in an environment where prototyping/fabrication work is done will watch this video and die a little bit. Couple of thoughts to help with future iterations: -When tapping threaded features, it is really helpful to have a surface that is known to be level, and an axis that you know is "close" to perpendicular to it. If you put a punch or center in the chuck of a drill press, and use that to hold the end of the tap, you can ensure that the tap stays straight, and it will make it faster to do multiple holes. Also, cutting fluid is a godsend. -Well done with your use of the gasket fitment guide. As a recommendation, you could leak test your prototypes with compressed air at low pressure (50 kPag / 7.5 psig), and measure the leakdown time. Then if you detect a leak, you can locate where it is coming from with a little soapy water. The big flick here is that you are able to leak check you parts in a way the doesn't risk your expensive computer components that can't get wet. -if you do a bit of research on the fin design of your heat exchanger, you may get substantially better thermal performance.
@@faheemzia5509 the companies that design the planes try to keep the safety factor as close to the minimum as possible. More safety = more material = more weight = more fuel = higher operation costs!
@@unlisted9494 Naw I've seen him actually talk about their purpose, he knows they are to help remove heat, I think the edits sometimes cut out stuff. They do direct the flow of water, however, but yea their main purpose is to give more surface area to remove heat and I know I've heard him talk about that.
@@jtb6075 I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that CNC can do microfins... maybe it can, but yea you can tell he's totally noob with the cnc. I mean I wouldn't be much better at it either. lol
@@bBrain I know that machine probably couldn't do microfins but not I was getting at. I was saying he doesn't use it as a true machinist / fabricator. He should know that he can use the machine to make tools like a dremel jig that can make microfins. The whole CNC operation on lmg is a complete waste of money as Alex is way out of his place. These new engineers want machines to do everything or else they can't do it.
Pretty sure just vaseline and just enough squeeze would work far better far more consistently, than presenting a rubber compound with it's main mortal enemy, fire. Ofc there are compounds that can eat rubber, but you aren't probably going to have it, machine tools, the need and not know that at the same time.
@@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489 Yeah this is a connection technique applicable to TPE only, and i have not seen it done for sealing purposes, but for power belts. Indeed even small misalignment between the ends sounds like a terrible idea. If you have the ends plain loose or connected with some weak glue purely for placement purposes, it would just find its own alignment and may be most likely to seal perfectly fine among available techniques. Obviously CA glue is not your friend here, but if it works, it works 🤷
I'm a cnc machinist and solid modeler. I've worked with waterproofing components for various electronics projects in the past. I second recommend the Parker O-ring handbook for o-ring use and groove designs. You shouldn't have had problems with the copper though so I'm not sure what you're doing there. If you're doing fins tiny pcb mills and drills generally work well. I also recommend asking scuba shops what they recommend for o-ring use, I recall using some super fancy grease that worked amazingly well.
As an engineer, I have always presumed you haven't hired someone more knowledgeable to deliberately add entertainment value. BTW, good idea to test for leaks BEFORE mounting it on the expensive hardware.
If you want nice shiny looking acrylic: First smooth it with a high grit sandpaper Then hit it briefly with a heat gun and that will just melt the surface so its perfectly smooth and clear
Because if they leak tested elsewhere then they wouldn't have the thermal tests until after. And LMG is too focused on pumping out content daily than making quality content so they save an hour or so by doing both at the same time.
@@emmett050 Or, they thought that it might be amusing for the viewer if the water block leaked onto the test bench. Why are you even here if you don't think it's "quality content" ?
What's the point here? It's distilled water not acid. If it leaks they immediately shut the system off, dry it properly and it should work just fine. You also leak-test regular water cooling on your system, you just take more precautions because you can't buy a new system every day.
As a machinist who has machined parts from titanium, inconel, beryllium-copper, stellite, stainless steel, and other materials for aircraft, I find watching you guys fumble your way through pretty amusing.
FYI, since I know you guys have a drill press: If you want to tap threads straight, mount the tap in the drill press to get it started. On the milling side of things, cutting fluid is very useful when you're milling metal.
Try to use an engraving bit to make a "grid" where the water makes contact with the copper, increasing the surface area. it's not going to be as effective as the fins, but it's better than nothing
As an engineering student looking for experience before employment i am fully jealous on Alex and the experiences he gets to have because of the opportunities Linus gives him. A beginner engineer couldn’t ask for more. Chilled none pressured environment full of try and error situations
Yeah that's really stoopid. Also not draining the loop is fine i guess, but why wouldn't they at least use clamps on the tubes ??? Seriously, every god damn time ! I used to do a lot of maintenance on my old over-powered custom loop, and almost never did a full drain, but at least i would use clamps and funnels and bins just to make sure i don't spill liquid everywhere hahaha
My thoughts exactly, i was thinking what are they gonna do to pressure test it... But of course they just put it on a test bench.... Worth more than my desktop rig and laptop combined.................
top tip for tapping; mount the tap into a pillar drill to keep the tap straight only ever hand turn the bit when tapping though!, this is very important for acrylic where you can get fractures if you're not straight enough
My favourite vids are definitely the ones where you build stuff. Especially that you keep it real with viewer accessible tools (unlike the hardware). Makes me want a workshop.
I'm a mechatronics engineer and trust me,it hurts me more to see that beautiful camera taken apart by brute force and threwn into dirty bin. Also,he has showed us that he isn't the sharpes tool in the shed quite a few times before,go watch his other heatsink videos and you will realise why. Still,it is entertaining to watch him destroy stuff,probably because im still stuck on AM2+ CPU and a GTS 450 paired with 3gb ram,meanwhile he thrashes last gen i7's. Oh well,i guess he is earning money from it and we get entertained so it is a win win.
@@lazar2175 Oh I can imagine, I'm a mechanical engineer and it pains me to see tools being used with such barborism. Credit to them for giving it a go though! Everyone has to start somewhere. The hypocrisy is quite funny though, cpus will live in neat cases and all motherboards have to go back into storage with the socket covers or linus gets mad. Yet a $40,000 camera is fine thrown into some dusty box. I would be amazed if this project actually works
@@lazar2175 I am actually from the UK, I design custom machines for the converting and rewinding industry, so really I'm a designer, solution finder and problem fixer all rolled into one. I have friends who have gone off the the US to make a career for themselves and they are worked hard and for long hours, they are however well paid so it depends on what you are after. Lots of money or a less stressful place to work. The trouble with people who have degrees in engineering (and I'll add this is no fault of their own) is that degree's give you all the maths and theory but little of the practical. While this can be improved on a great deal it takes time. I see it as if the group of wannabe engineers can make a waterblock from scratch then a lot of people can given the time and some simple tools.
I really like and appreciate that linus listens to his employees even though, lets be honest, we all know hes been in the tech industry for a long time and knows any of this already. maybe for show only but still, it works for me. Thumbs Up!!
If you have some skill then you could make the tiny slits in the copper with a dremel and a cutoff disk. If you don't have any skill whatsoever then you can clamp the dremel down to a table, put the block into a vise and slowly feed it towards the cutoff disk and still get it done. If you even manage to let that fail then you work at LMG. When cutting by hand you can compensate lack of skill by guideblocks, securing things down and jigging things up. Btw, if you want your block to be flat you're better of flattening it by hand, your routerbit isn't flat and leaves machining marks. You can just learn the technique of metalscraping from Igor Negoda and get to sub-micron precisi..... Ehm, I mean just get a piece of glass or a mirror and put fine grit sandpaper on top of it and use it as a sanding-block to get it flat enough.
I died of laughter when he floated the idea of using a tiny bit instead of a cutting wheel to make the fins. You can even see they used a cutting wheel on the fins for the block they compared it to. Keep things simple boys.
I did the same thing, I made my own water block at school as a machine shop project. We did not have the tools to make micro fins or anything. In the end it worked, just not very well. Most viewed vid I’ve ever had. Was a super fun project too.
Get a hazardous fraught slitting saw to cut grooves in the water side of the copper to increase surface area. Lap the bottom using a progressive series of sandpapers. It took so long last time because you started with too fine a grit.
You're using the wrong adhesive to bond an ELASTOMER. You should use Loctite 480, NOT 454. 480 has microscopic black rubber spheres in the formulation which add flexibility when bonding elastomeric materials. It takes a little longer to polymerize and is thicker, which makes it easier to use too (it's also the right colour). I didn't notice an "adhesive scientist" in your recent jobs promo vid. SHAME on you! Shame! ;)
aluminium radiators are everywhere this isn't an issue (most asetek AIO's use aluminium radiators and you can buy those same radiators without the asetek pump and block from aliexpress for really cheap prices)
I'm a little late on this one, but when you have to tap a hole use a drill press to hold the tap strait and the drill press table to hold the block flat. Now you just open the pulley cover so you can manually turn the tap. this way you get a perpendicular thread. You may need two people though.
hes correct on the orings, the gap is required so you have space for the oring to spread out when pressed together, if you don't have the gap you either pinch/split the oring and it leaks, or you warp the surfaces you are trying to seal.
just drilling a bunch of tiny pits in the waterblock surface just under the inlet and making the block more restrictive will greatly improve the performance. Pumps create flow resistance creates pressure and pressure is what cools.
Exactly. Thank fuck they were joking about sending it out into the wild! Petroleum products penetrate and therefore destroy rubber. Hope they notice before their first disaster sneaks up on them ;P Then they'll invest in the silicone lube!
Hey Linus, I am a mechanic and I have a Loctite brand O-ring Splicing Kit in my box and it comes with cords of various thickness Buna-N material and super glue and a razor to cut the cord. So yes, it is an acceptable method of repairing, or making new o rings in the field and you can actually use many small sections to make one big o ring if you wanted to. Hope this helps. Id recommend getting one if you want to do more custom stuff in the future. P.S. you can only use them for static loads, not dynamic loads.
When building a waterblock for the first time it is always a good idea to test it for any leaks by installing it on a motherboard...
when they have 100's of MBs laying around who cares
More drama
He’s sarcastic @tards
Ongelooflijk hoe weinig mensen jouw sarcasme snappen man.
And always do it in the bath using a toaster as a workbench.
Just 50K worth of camera sitting stacked in a plastic tub lol.
Never change Linus.
Haha ikr
and we're lucky if he didn't drop the plastic tub
Well what could possibly happen to it, can it be broken?
Not going to lie it made me cry oh and I got some pie but it wasn't mine so just leave me alone to die.
16:12 *stares at 50k worth of camera made into scraps*
"Ok, I'm feeling good."
- Linus Sebastian 2019
Testing a self-made water block exclusively by using it as intended... What a literal mad lad
I made a handmade water cooler block for less than $0.20 out of a box of scraps that I made in 2001 and it still works to today it really isn't that hard
@@traviswessels5814 quiet, water cooling is supposed to be magic and sorcery.
Lol how else would you test it? There quite literally is no other way to know the performance..
@@kcscustom9759 they mean leak test it.
It stresses me out that the $40,000 camera is sitting in the same container i store my Christmas decorations in, and also looks like a pile of rubbage.
Electronics are just fancy sand
@@victorguo9184 I mean you're not wrong
@@victorguo9184 fancy sand that costs $40,000
Red Camera's are over hyped junk. They are what film students use when they can't get their hands on an Arri.
Because a $40,000 RED Camera and $40,000 worth of iPhones look the same when incinerated, they're just sand.
Those grooves are not to guide the fluid, they increase the surface area in order to aid heat transfer. There is a noticeable difference between a smooth block and a finned block as you increase the load and radiator size.
Also, if you fit an o-ring too tightly, it can't compress correctly for a good fit. You have to leave room in the groove for it to expand. The best result is when the depth and width of the groove perfectly fit the squished o-ring at a spec'd pressure as the parts come into contact.
Fancy seeing a wild Brnk here
This.
And you could litterially do it with a chisel and a hammer and a little time.
The bottom also needs to be properly lapped, and that's seriously time consuming if you do it by hand.
Same principal as having a car radiator media blasted, doesn't need to be fins it can also be rough like a sandpaper finish
13:15 As an aircraft mechanic I can assure you that air transport is a hell of a lot safer than car transport. The level of planned maintenance on aircraft is probably only exceeded by rocket maintenance. In the aero transport business no-one is gonna ignore an check-engine-light for any amount of time, the groove depth of the tires are checked on a per flight basis. Same goes for oil level.
On a side note, watching you guys using tools like thread-taps and such, gives me a nervous twitch. I just wanna slap those tools out your hands. For me watching these videos, is like others that like to watch horror movies, or go into haunted houses. Very uncomfortable, but afterwards I can just laugh at it. :)
there was a huge scandel recently where airplane techs was told to ignore stuff t hat wasnt on there list
@omgwtf696969 Without further details your comparison is meaningless. What type of parts are you referring to? Quality control for different parts has different tests depending on material, operational conditions (temperature, pressure, environmental hazards etc.)
So unless you are talking about manufacturing the EXACT same part, for two different industries, the comparison has no influence on my post.
Some mild difference between maintainance and design when it comes to aircraft, they are designed with very narrow safety margins because excess weight is an aircraft's achilles' heel, the difference between that and a car is that an aircraft is designed to "soft fail" so any failure that does occur is rarely critical and those components are designed to fail after a certain amount of time so that a technician can specifically look at them periodically to maintain the aircraft. Road vehicles on the other hand, are less designed for that mode of failure, as excess weight isn't a crippling factor in the function of the vehicle, instead they are designed to withstand certain stresses and not fail or show signs of failure; meaning that they are more likely to break in a pseudo-random fasion. I can almost guarantee that aeronautical parts are of higher quality than automotive parts, simply because the materials and tolerances are far more strict than in a road vehicle and the processes that produce them are controlled far better too. Quite simply; if a car fails, you don't drop from 36000ft at 2-300mph into the ground. Aircraft, however...
I'm an aircraft mechanic as well, and almost every time they use tools like this I start cringing so hard!
Also the comments about aircraft safety really pissed me off. Our tolerances and maintenance procedures are way more strict than automotive.
So a few pointers for working in acrylic and making water blocks.
1. When you machine acrylic or poly, the surface will get "frosty" you can put the part through a process called "Flame polishing" that will give the part a mirror smooth finish.
2. When tapping with a bit like that, it's suggested that you try to get it as level as you can. To make it super easy you can take a drill press and insert the bit into the chuck and then spin the chuck by hand to tap the acrylic.
3. With an o ring like that you want about 1-2mm of the o-ring above the top of the c channel you cut. You may want to base this off your o-ring material though.
Hope these help!
hope they read it
I thought you couldn't flame polish polycarbonate?
So don't use vice grips with your taps? Darn, I've been doing it wrong all this time!
Should just use a starter tap first
@@jtb6075 Acrylic is not the same material as polycarbonate.
As a non-machinist, seeing all of these machinists trying to help Linus and his team to more properly utilize the tools they are using for their projects is great...
But let's be honest, it wouldn't be as entertaining if they actually knew what they were doing.
also wouldn't be any less entertaining, take This Old Tony as an example for someone who knows what he's doing and also has high production value
Knowing what to do and knowing how to do it properly are two different things.
"If we knew what we were doing, we wouldn't call it research."
True, but whenever they try to touch a tool or talk about how to do something an engineer or machinist somewhere dies somewhere due to the shear force of the face palm required.
@@Worrsaint orig00.deviantart.net/401a/f/2010/362/b/b/x_facepalm_motivational_by_ajtnz-d35wiy3.jpg
12:52 "Do you not trust Parker?" this line cracks me up every time
I don't know how many times I've seen "Why would we drain the loop" immediately followed by a spill on LTT!
Red is going to put out an H2Oxygen camera that’s water cooled right before you guy finish.
I love watching these; it reminds me of old Top Gear when they did their "ambitious but rubbish" challenges.
In industry we call more precise tolerances "high tolerance" which now that I think of it doesnt make total sense but yeah that's just how it is trust me I work on CAD every day. I think the reason it's like that is because the "high" in "high tolerance" is not referring to the amount of range that is accepted as a dimension, but is saying the tolerance has a high standard. Like it's an important tolerance.
Precision and tolerance are very often wrongfully interchanged by laymen around the globe...it gets worse when you add clearance and interference in the mix and waaaay worse when you add roughness, form deviation, true position etc etc...I really believe that using the right words in the right order is really important in this industry (my humble engineer/machinist opinion) to communicate the right result. I've seen engineers who couldn't grasp the concept of a high precision (low tolerance) clearance fit such these found in air bearings...
@@Sketch1994 yeah definitely, took me a while to learn a lot of the terminology and concepts. But I'm no engineer, im a hydraulics technician that sometimes has to draw up parts to be made so your opinion is definitely more valid than mine
if tolerance = "an allowable amount of variation", then high tolerance = high amount of variation, and low tolerance = low amount of variation. I think you'd want a low amount of variation on a highly precise part.
I've generally heard it as "tight tolerance", not "high tolerance"
@@tippyc2 yes, or I say "fine tolerances".
Guys. Machining copper, aluminum, brass, etc is all Very easy. How fast are you running your spindle?
O ring grooves need +/- several thou for a good seal. You're not sealing N2 or He2 at 2000 psi. They're not necessarily all that sensitive to tolerance.
One could probably use an engraving bit for the small channels on over the CPU.
Man Linus. That tap is way crooked.
Probably use a larger bit and a slower speed.
Using CA glue on o-rings Is actually a good way to make orings. Mine seal a vacuum chamber very freaking well and a buddy worked at a place that made them seal in 10k psi hydraulic forming machines.
Safety factor under 10%... *Cringe
1. That's not a factor. That's a percentage.
2. Plane S.F. are usually around 1.4 and up. That's commercial aircraft. So under the most demanding possibility hundreds of experienced engineers and over 100 years of flight can come up with; they multiply that stress by 1.4 and build to that. Then test... Extensively. Then hopefully your airline company maintains their planes. Most of them do a good job at that.
Linus thinks the fins on a cpu water block are to help water flow the right direction, these guys are a lost cause man.
@@unlisted9494 Why would he think that. Did he say it somewhere because I didn't really pay attention.
@@vilkku792 3:16 I was also shocked when he said that
Lubrication whilst machining is a thing. Copper shouldn't be all that difficult honestly. Annealing copper might make it easier to cut with the CNC bits as well. But in general most metal workers will indeed put a drop every so often while drilling and machining.
Copper is not difficult. Something like copper would absolutely benefit from oil. Annealing it actually makes it more difficult to machine due to it already being soft and gummy.
_Long ago, the four Blocks lived together in harmony. Then, everything changed when the Fire Block attacked_
Evariste Galois. Jake is the Avatar
Lame comment again
Is this supposed to be a meme that I can't get?
@LunaXBL ok thanks for telling that. But still I feel the comment is nowhere related to the video (just my opinion)
?????
For machining copper, quality cutters and proper speeds and feeds help (look in the machinery's handbook) BUT the best thing you can do to help yourself out is material selection. Specifically, the general purpose Copper 110 alloy is terrible for machining, it is sticky, chewy, and overall unpleasant, whereas Copper 145 aka Tellurium Copper is the easiest alloy to machine and yields significantly better results. Other routes you can take is to use a free machining brass such as Brass 360, Aluminum 2011, and Aluminum 6020 as they are also excellent for machining but are also of significantly lower thermal conductivity than copper, so you would be forced to do very fancy details to get the surface area up to match a relatively simple pattern or even flat plate of copper.
I dunno what it means but Linus you better follow the tips.
Very good points. I also think a spindle speed reducer is needed to allow them to cut copper more cleanly. It looks like their turret is a cheaper high RPM only one for cutting wood and plastic.
Copper and aluminum.... Spray with wd40 or crc while cutting.....Make sure your taking deep cuts that throw chips/swarf even if the tool is very small it must cut enough to produce a decent swarf amount otherwise the tip will get to hot, the material will go buttery and bind to the tool.
Don't try low feed rates unless you have very low spindle speeds.
If a 1mm tool was to be used id start at 70,000 rpm at 700mm/min (100mm per 10000rpm @ 1mm tool diameter) for copper with occasional sprays of wd40 and constant air cooling.
At 1mm tool tips the high speed can make the tool more rigid to deflection, just like how a dremil running at 30,000 rpm will steady a .5mm drill bit better then running at 500rpm.
You can also get coatings for tools to reduce brazing of copper to tool like Chromium Nitride.
they really need cooling and lubrication if they want something decent out of that copper with that machine, it might not be enough, but the result would improve for sure, and yeah coated tools as mentioned above
Wd40 for aluminum and copper is a must. Lubricant is needed. Watching this from a machining career stand point it was cringy lol
Need to use silicon lubricant mate, patrolium eats o-rings over time. Red Dead Redemption alright Alex.
that cant be true seeing as the military uses Vaseline for aircraft's o-rings
They probably used a viton oring by the looks of it which vaseline wouldnt hurt.
@@KinSlay1337 not sure about that one mate, not an expert in military engineering you might be right.
@@chaos1267 good call mate.
It's probably buna-n, it'll be fine.
Yes just put a disassembled expensive camera parts into a bin. Totally safe.
I internally cringe and get uneasy whenever I see expensive hardware being treated the way these guys do sometimes. But then again to me you must treat every single piece like glass 😂
"put a disassembled expensive camera" or camera parts pick one
For me at a minimal Get a flat rubbermaid container, put all parts into bags, any bolts into smalelr bags and put those inside the parts bag. and lay them all out inside the container. thats a minimal... But that said, im sure there stuff is fineand will be fine, but shit happens and most of us cant stomach a loss like that.
Your CNC router has plenty of spindle speed available to cut the copper, but the lack of coolant might be a large cause for issues. Even if you stand there and blow on it with compressed air, it would be better than nothing...but if you hook up a mist coolant system then it'd be even better. Even spritzing it by hand might work, but it'll make a mess. Mist coolant will also make a mess of course (in the direction the nozzle is pointing) but you do what you gotta do!
you can cut anything dry with the right tool
Kind of like occasionally dripping some oil on the piece on a drill press?
@@kolby4078 Eeeeeh, yeah. But with copper, alu, and brass, you really want some lubrication because it tends to stick to itself/tool if run dry.
I have had excellent success using olive oil as cutting oil for copper. It just makes a terrible mess, but it works great.
Want to know a secret to glossy acrylic.
Use heat/blowtorch to lightly melt it.
Building Our Own CPU Water Block
Building Our Own CPU Dirt Block
Building Our Own CPU Stone Block
Building Our Own CPU Diamond Block
But everything changed, when the fire blocks attacke.. Wait, wrong meme.
Building our own CPU water block
Building our own CPU earth block
Building our own CPU fire block
Building our own CPU air block
@@mini-_ damn someone got to that joke before me
@@suborgtfo.4433 😊
And then all the elements came together.
Elemental CPU block
Machining the acrylic flat, when acrylic easily is flat enough for the application.
Using a clamp as a tap wrench, thereby putting a strange sideways torque on it, risking it getting oval-ish threads. (yes, this is a thing.)
Gluing together an O-ring and being nearly 50% off. (this is a potential leak source, though a water cooling loop might not have enough pressure to make this a big issue.)
Well, I have seen many horrors the last 20 minutes apparently....
Though, at least they greased up the O-ring, something that even larger operations don't do for far more expensive products.
I've machined acrylic more than a few times. Thickness can sometimes vary 2-3 mm over a meter length on a '8mm' thick sheet. I would have machined it too when the part is already on the CNC table.
The glued o-ring is terrible. It may not leak immediate. But the pressure combined with deteriorating rubber will cause the bond to break eventually.
Also, they should have tapped with a drill-press as bit holder. Then you're always straight.
The funny part is that the one compliment you gave them is still wrong, petroleum on o-rings is worse than not lubricating since it cause them to deteriorate.
@@GoldyMcGoldface If rubber/silicone O-rings deteriorated when in contact with petroleum/hydrocarbons, then all hydraulics equipment would start leaking fairly quickly after manufacturing.
The main reason equipment starts leaking is due to physical wear and abrasion.
Though yes, there are O-rings made of plastics. (and most plastics dissolve in oils/grease. (And it is from here the large misnomer about o-rings deteriorating in oils comes from.))
@@todayonthebench I'll concede that their o-rings may be made of a polymer that is safe for use with petroleum based products, however rubber is 100% not compatible with them.
I love Alex in video. He does need Linus to act as heel, but I love that Alex is just given a project and then just allowed to tinker away until he has it ready.
I made my own blocks back when there were little to no commercial products. Gave up on copper and used alu only for ease of machining. I had manual machines only, the o-ring groove was turned on a lathe. You can increase area by aligning the block vertically and using a slitting cutter to make the grooves, it will make a huge difference.
This is like watching a train wreck in progress. You just can't look away no matter how horrified you are by what you're seeing...
It was so bad!!
They did machine copper and that's not easy.
For a first try it's actually pretty stellar, and that's comming from a guy who's been making his own blocks for over 20 years
This is more like their 20th try. They used to have a series on making custom heat sinks before Linus got tired of spending money and getting beat out by cheap Chinese coolers. It was very, very horrifying to watch. (Seriously, look it up.)
Also, this would be a good effort on its own. The real WTF is that they disassembled a Red camera and are using this as a dry run to try water cooling it. Just so horrifying...
Yeah, anyone who has worked in an environment where prototyping/fabrication work is done will watch this video and die a little bit.
Couple of thoughts to help with future iterations:
-When tapping threaded features, it is really helpful to have a surface that is known to be level, and an axis that you know is "close" to perpendicular to it. If you put a punch or center in the chuck of a drill press, and use that to hold the end of the tap, you can ensure that the tap stays straight, and it will make it faster to do multiple holes. Also, cutting fluid is a godsend.
-Well done with your use of the gasket fitment guide. As a recommendation, you could leak test your prototypes with compressed air at low pressure (50 kPag / 7.5 psig), and measure the leakdown time. Then if you detect a leak, you can locate where it is coming from with a little soapy water. The big flick here is that you are able to leak check you parts in a way the doesn't risk your expensive computer components that can't get wet.
-if you do a bit of research on the fin design of your heat exchanger, you may get substantially better thermal performance.
Linus building a CPU Water Block without RGB.
_Wonders do happen sometimes_
Don't need rgb in a red camera only red leds 🤣
@@Rainbow__cookie rgb water blocks costs around $80
_its just a prototype_
PITTER-PATTER, LET'S GET AT 'ER!
-Linus Sebastian, 2K19
Dat Letterkenny reference! Such a great show!
@@AFarChant it's a really great show
Lol used to say that all the time in grade school.
@@CanadaBud23 I mean, the show is based on people in rural Ontario so it makes sense. Are you from those parts?
@@AFarChant Yeah, everybody used to say it lol.
Little did Linus know that’s often how custom o-rings are actually made or repaired.
FAA requires a 1.5 safety factor on airplanes and a 3.0 safety factor on the landing gear.
I was looking for someone complaining about him understating how god damn strict the FAA is on safety
Also flying is literally the safest form of transportation there is, including walking
@@faheemzia5509 the companies that design the planes try to keep the safety factor as close to the minimum as possible. More safety = more material = more weight = more fuel = higher operation costs!
@@OmiP42 yeah i feel relaxed getting onto planes, its trains that scare me
@@EricSmith-dx1ll and that minimum is still very high
You could setup a jig and cut micro fins with a small dremel. Nothing to it and would make your home brew water blocks work a _LOT_ better.
You'd think they would, but Alex got a 20k CNC and doesn't know how to practically use it.
Good luck with that. Linus thinks they're there to help flow water. He doesn't understand at a fundamental level what a heatsink is or how it works.
@@unlisted9494 Naw I've seen him actually talk about their purpose, he knows they are to help remove heat, I think the edits sometimes cut out stuff. They do direct the flow of water, however, but yea their main purpose is to give more surface area to remove heat and I know I've heard him talk about that.
@@jtb6075 I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that CNC can do microfins... maybe it can, but yea you can tell he's totally noob with the cnc. I mean I wouldn't be much better at it either. lol
@@bBrain I know that machine probably couldn't do microfins but not I was getting at. I was saying he doesn't use it as a true machinist / fabricator. He should know that he can use the machine to make tools like a dremel jig that can make microfins. The whole CNC operation on lmg is a complete waste of money as Alex is way out of his place. These new engineers want machines to do everything or else they can't do it.
O rings are sealed by heating both ends over a candle or torch. A joint made with an adhesive will not last.
Good lord no. If I ever spliced o-rings with a torch at work instead of just some standard LT404 I'd have both a failure and reprimand waiting for me.
Pretty sure just vaseline and just enough squeeze would work far better far more consistently, than presenting a rubber compound with it's main mortal enemy, fire. Ofc there are compounds that can eat rubber, but you aren't probably going to have it, machine tools, the need and not know that at the same time.
where have you ever seen this successfully preformed? I'd love to see that happen.
@@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489 Yeah this is a connection technique applicable to TPE only, and i have not seen it done for sealing purposes, but for power belts. Indeed even small misalignment between the ends sounds like a terrible idea. If you have the ends plain loose or connected with some weak glue purely for placement purposes, it would just find its own alignment and may be most likely to seal perfectly fine among available techniques. Obviously CA glue is not your friend here, but if it works, it works 🤷
But can you make it vodka cooled?
Life Of Boris
wow
Life Of Boris has you covered
Why are you everywhere
A early justin Comment without 1k likes im blessed
Linus talks about greasing his O-Ring while being an expert on petroleum Jelly :D
I'm a cnc machinist and solid modeler. I've worked with waterproofing components for various electronics projects in the past. I second recommend the Parker O-ring handbook for o-ring use and groove designs. You shouldn't have had problems with the copper though so I'm not sure what you're doing there. If you're doing fins tiny pcb mills and drills generally work well. I also recommend asking scuba shops what they recommend for o-ring use, I recall using some super fancy grease that worked amazingly well.
As an engineer, I have always presumed you haven't hired someone more knowledgeable to deliberately add entertainment value.
BTW, good idea to test for leaks BEFORE mounting it on the expensive hardware.
Pro tip: it's easier to properly mate the O-ring ends if they are cut at an angle. Also, you can use teflon tape to seal the threads.
If you want nice shiny looking acrylic:
First smooth it with a high grit sandpaper
Then hit it briefly with a heat gun and that will just melt the surface so its perfectly smooth and clear
I didn't know if I should laugh or cry when I saw that camera
Cry. Seriously, cry.
it was like C-3PO after stepping that cloud town.
Ugh... As a machinist i weep. For simpler threading put the part in the drill press. That way you can center the tap, and get it perfectly straight.
Stian or even better yet just get a tapping block lol that’s the cheapest and easiest way to get a straight tapped hole.
Do they even have that? As far as I know they only have the CNC machine
@@512TheWolf512 I have seen one in multiple previous videos.
Or even fancier: threadmilling
They definitely have the machine for it. I think that whole part is just for extending the video.
Me: TONY STARK WAS ABLE TO BUILD THIS IN A CAVE! WITH A BOX OF SCRAPS!
Linus: Ok, hold my beer...!
why leak test on a bench? whhyyyyy?? You don't need expert machining knowledge just common sense!
There is a right way, and there is an LTT way.
This is the LTT way
Welcome to LMG!!
Because if they leak tested elsewhere then they wouldn't have the thermal tests until after. And LMG is too focused on pumping out content daily than making quality content so they save an hour or so by doing both at the same time.
@@emmett050 Or, they thought that it might be amusing for the viewer if the water block leaked onto the test bench. Why are you even here if you don't think it's "quality content" ?
@@ameralhamvi5680 there's the right way,the ltt way and the wrong way guess which way is worst
The LMG way😂😂😂😂😂
What's the point here? It's distilled water not acid. If it leaks they immediately shut the system off, dry it properly and it should work just fine. You also leak-test regular water cooling on your system, you just take more precautions because you can't buy a new system every day.
As a machinist who has machined parts from titanium, inconel, beryllium-copper, stellite, stainless steel, and other materials for aircraft, I find watching you guys fumble your way through pretty amusing.
Inconel! Fancy stuff
8:36 I LOVE how Linus reacts to this. It's surprising what one is supposed to do in some circumstances. O-rings are a science all to them selves.
Of all the cooling solutions for PCs, I get the most excited about water cooling. It makes me wet.
But when it comes to air cooling, I'm not a big fan...
@@Master_Therion get out
@@Master_Therion nope
thats realy COOL
If your getting wet you need to tighten your fittings.
LTT will venture into manufacturing PC hardware by 2020
They've already partnered with Noctua for a LTT branded fan before...
Its cool. I own shares
LTT cooling blocks will probably have a graphene pad just stuck to them somehow so it skips an entire messy step.
But the Soulja PC. It's been it since 1879!
FYI, since I know you guys have a drill press: If you want to tap threads straight, mount the tap in the drill press to get it started.
On the milling side of things, cutting fluid is very useful when you're milling metal.
5 years from now Linus will be trying to make his own microchips with a hacked laser engraver inside a DIY CVD machine.
Stay tuned.
honestly that would be pretty sick to try and make a transistor.
Try to use an engraving bit to make a "grid" where the water makes contact with the copper, increasing the surface area. it's not going to be as effective as the fins, but it's better than nothing
As an engineering student looking for experience before employment i am fully jealous on Alex and the experiences he gets to have because of the opportunities Linus gives him. A beginner engineer couldn’t ask for more. Chilled none pressured environment full of try and error situations
I better not be the only one who appreciates the Letterkenny quote at 5:40
WTF???!!!! Testing for leaks on the bench? WHY????
because reasons, this is LTT way..
Yeah that's really stoopid. Also not draining the loop is fine i guess, but why wouldn't they at least use clamps on the tubes ??? Seriously, every god damn time !
I used to do a lot of maintenance on my old over-powered custom loop, and almost never did a full drain, but at least i would use clamps and funnels and bins just to make sure i don't spill liquid everywhere hahaha
My thoughts exactly, i was thinking what are they gonna do to pressure test it... But of course they just put it on a test bench.... Worth more than my desktop rig and laptop combined.................
Because CONTENT... and any antics and hilarity that will ensue is all in the name of views... no matter the disaster.
'cause LTT is about "worse case scenarios", is this the first time you watch this channel? lol
top tip for tapping; mount the tap into a pillar drill to keep the tap straight only ever hand turn the bit when tapping though!, this is very important for acrylic where you can get fractures if you're not straight enough
Linus:*takes apart expensive camera* "you know, baby steps!"
Linus is pretty succesfull perso7n,while he did what he loves,he also feed the people who work for him.
My favourite vids are definitely the ones where you build stuff. Especially that you keep it real with viewer accessible tools (unlike the hardware). Makes me want a workshop.
If you ever need a CNC machinist to make a proper one... I'm in Victoria. ;)
Only issue there is... a machine shop costs at least 100 bucks an hour.
He has a neighbor with a CNC.
@@explosives101 its a budget CNC. Not the best. The machine that does it, matters, as well as the end mills.
@@Mp57navy my buddy has one, he would do it for maybe that much total, or shits and giggles.
Bigger it is the less it moves.
Cold cutting threads into metal
Bringing over cutting oil
Linus: "You probably won't need that"
two minutes later he realises his mistake
When cutting threads you go in 1 full turn back out half - 1 turn in back out half. When chasing threads you just go all the way no backing up.
someone has been around a tap before i see and had great instruction.
i was shook when he said "If you wanna come here David"
a few pointers on acrylic, you can use a flame and polish it by just glancing the flame across surface
New Series „Sketchy Waterblocks“? 😁
Lots and lots of cringing for any machinists watching this
This had me yelling at my monitor
Any time the try to make anything it hurts my brain especially in machining.
How dare they try something they are bad at!
Sean Krewson same for any mechanical engineer
They should look for a proper machine shop that could manufacture their copper base... The cnc router they use is crap
God watching you guys do the threading had me screaming “For godsake call Hacksmith for some help!” at my screen
Imagining the faces of every mechanical engineer watching @ 7:39
I'm a mechatronics engineer and trust me,it hurts me more to see that beautiful camera taken apart by brute force and threwn into dirty bin.
Also,he has showed us that he isn't the sharpes tool in the shed quite a few times before,go watch his other heatsink videos and you will realise why.
Still,it is entertaining to watch him destroy stuff,probably because im still stuck on AM2+ CPU and a GTS 450 paired with 3gb ram,meanwhile he thrashes last gen i7's.
Oh well,i guess he is earning money from it and we get entertained so it is a win win.
@@lazar2175 Oh I can imagine, I'm a mechanical engineer and it pains me to see tools being used with such barborism. Credit to them for giving it a go though! Everyone has to start somewhere.
The hypocrisy is quite funny though, cpus will live in neat cases and all motherboards have to go back into storage with the socket covers or linus gets mad. Yet a $40,000 camera is fine thrown into some dusty box.
I would be amazed if this project actually works
@@lazar2175 I am actually from the UK, I design custom machines for the converting and rewinding industry, so really I'm a designer, solution finder and problem fixer all rolled into one.
I have friends who have gone off the the US to make a career for themselves and they are worked hard and for long hours, they are however well paid so it depends on what you are after. Lots of money or a less stressful place to work.
The trouble with people who have degrees in engineering (and I'll add this is no fault of their own) is that degree's give you all the maths and theory but little of the practical. While this can be improved on a great deal it takes time. I see it as if the group of wannabe engineers can make a waterblock from scratch then a lot of people can given the time and some simple tools.
"perpendicular"
Excited by the presence of Alex.
I really like and appreciate that linus listens to his employees even though, lets be honest, we all know hes been in the tech industry for a long time and knows any of this already. maybe for show only but still, it works for me. Thumbs Up!!
So this is sketchy heatsinks 4 then?
Water cooling edition?
Still a better pc build than the verge
9:54 "Oh, we gotta grease up our O-rings" ... ROFL, that cracked me up.
"Do you want a medal?" "Go machine your medal..."
If you have some skill then you could make the tiny slits in the copper with a dremel and a cutoff disk. If you don't have any skill whatsoever then you can clamp the dremel down to a table, put the block into a vise and slowly feed it towards the cutoff disk and still get it done.
If you even manage to let that fail then you work at LMG. When cutting by hand you can compensate lack of skill by guideblocks, securing things down and jigging things up.
Btw, if you want your block to be flat you're better of flattening it by hand, your routerbit isn't flat and leaves machining marks. You can just learn the technique of metalscraping from Igor Negoda and get to sub-micron precisi..... Ehm, I mean just get a piece of glass or a mirror and put fine grit sandpaper on top of it and use it as a sanding-block to get it flat enough.
I died of laughter when he floated the idea of using a tiny bit instead of a cutting wheel to make the fins. You can even see they used a cutting wheel on the fins for the block they compared it to. Keep things simple boys.
I did the same thing, I made my own water block at school as a machine shop project. We did not have the tools to make micro fins or anything. In the end it worked, just not very well. Most viewed vid I’ve ever had. Was a super fun project too.
"ya know, baby steps"
*starts by tearing apart $40,000 piece of tech
Sounds like Linus has been watching some Letterkenny
Allegedly.
The ostrich?
Get this man a Puppers!
DanteA7X get this guy a fuckin puppers
@@ReecesGames Fuck you Shoresy
Get a hazardous fraught slitting saw to cut grooves in the water side of the copper to increase surface area. Lap the bottom using a progressive series of sandpapers. It took so long last time because you started with too fine a grit.
You're using the wrong adhesive to bond an ELASTOMER. You should use Loctite 480, NOT 454. 480 has microscopic black rubber spheres in the formulation which add flexibility when bonding elastomeric materials. It takes a little longer to polymerize and is thicker, which makes it easier to use too (it's also the right colour). I didn't notice an "adhesive scientist" in your recent jobs promo vid. SHAME on you! Shame! ;)
Do an aluminum loop so you have a easier metal to machine
You also need aluminum radiators
aluminium radiators are everywhere this isn't an issue (most asetek AIO's use aluminium radiators and you can buy those same radiators without the asetek pump and block from aliexpress for really cheap prices)
I'm a little late on this one, but when you have to tap a hole use a drill press to hold the tap strait and the drill press table to hold the block flat. Now you just open the pulley cover so you can manually turn the tap. this way you get a perpendicular thread. You may need two people though.
$1 water block from ali-express
"too easy" ~ LMG 2019
“...where *we* disassembled an 8K RED camera.”
No, where YOU disassembled one and got in over your head.
I 'm loving the new "Linus's cool staff guiding him through one of their projects on camera" format.
Can we appreciate the fact that ltt makes quality videos literally every day?
2nd water block u built one in like season 5 of scrapyard wars.
im really glad the watercooled camera is actually going somewhere, i was convinced you guys were abandoning that idea
There is so much done wrong.
As former machinist, I'm cringing so hard.
i feel you.. it hurts on a personal level
As someone who knows a machinist, I'm cringing so hard
As somebody who has watched some videos on youtube of people machining stuff, I'm cringing so hard.
As someone who has heard of the word machining, I'm cringing so hard
The tapping bit in the copper not straight in the hole
. Rip bit
TIGHT tolerances is the word your looking for
hes correct on the orings, the gap is required so you have space for the oring to spread out when pressed together, if you don't have the gap you either pinch/split the oring and it leaks, or you warp the surfaces you are trying to seal.
sketchy heatsinks: the revenge
1660Ti on amazon uk G1 Gaming
just drilling a bunch of tiny pits in the waterblock surface just under the inlet and making the block more restrictive will greatly improve the performance. Pumps create flow resistance creates pressure and pressure is what cools.
This is a daft enough project that it's reminiscent of whole room water cooling project.
Does this involve a neighbor with a CNC machine in his garage?
nah
It probably involves climbing a tree and filling a copper pipe with salt.
Nah they have they're own cnc thing
Uninteresting Name *their
@@charlesdeviti2034 autocorrect apparently didn't catch it
Yay! Parker o-ring division! (I actually use that book regularly at my work.
Petroleum jelly and rubber don't get along they react
Exactly. Thank fuck they were joking about sending it out into the wild! Petroleum products penetrate and therefore destroy rubber. Hope they notice before their first disaster sneaks up on them ;P Then they'll invest in the silicone lube!
Buna n
Searched for this comment before I posted it too... Use silicone lube, NOT petroleum, over time you will regret this choice.
@@ytcer "Petroleum products penetrate" I see what you did there.
Then you gotta build a CPU and a GPU. I'm not sure if you can build a whole pc?
Hey Linus, I am a mechanic and I have a Loctite brand O-ring Splicing Kit in my box and it comes with cords of various thickness Buna-N material and super glue and a razor to cut the cord. So yes, it is an acceptable method of repairing, or making new o rings in the field and you can actually use many small sections to make one big o ring if you wanted to. Hope this helps. Id recommend getting one if you want to do more custom stuff in the future. P.S. you can only use them for static loads, not dynamic loads.
Journalist: So Alex, what do you do in LMG?
Alex: I spent my boss's money and buy stuff we use once only.
lol
0:24 But, does it have more RGB.
Lol no. But you can download more ram
@@dubbarrelyt4428: Dodge delivers by email?