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Did I Screw Up?! | Carbon Method Update
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
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A few months ago I decided to take rust prevention a little more seriously since I was gearing up for a move to a humid climate. The product I applied was Carbon Coat from Carbon Method and it's a thin protective graphene coating that is supposed to do a great job of preventing rust. Here's a link to that video if you want to catch up: • We Moved, It's Humid, ...
In that video I promised to report back on the condition of my table saw after the move. Unfortunately, the results were not as clear-cut as I expected. I had to do some additional research and experimentation in order to provide you guys with an honest and informative update. So here we are.
Did I Screw Up?!
When I brought my saw into the shop in August, I immediately noticed a bunch of tiny rust spots all over the table stop. I couldn't help but ask myself if I had screwed up, on multiple fronts. Did I apply the product incorrectly? Did the product fail to work? Did I put my foot in my mouth by agreeing to report back on this new product? The only way to get to the bottom of this was to contact the company and do some additional research and experiments of my own.
Spoiler Alert
Be sure to watch the video for the full explanation, but let me sum up here. Depending on the water source, standing water may still cause rust to form on a cast iron surface that has been coated with Carbon Coat. My testing, however, showed Carbon Coat to be the most effective at protecting metal from ambient humidity when compared to wax and Boeshield T9. So you can bet I'll be using this product on all of my cast iron surfaces as a form of rust prevention.
To learn more about Carbon Coat and the other products made by Carbon Method, go here: carbonmethod.com/
00:00 Recap of using Carbon Method
00:26 What happened?
00:58 The result
01:36 A tool completely unprotected
01:50 Why does rust happen?
02:28 The real test for rust prevention
02:49 Water purity is a factor
04:25 Spag Science!
04:41 Coating our 4 sample pieces
05:04 Danish Cord Bench on Pre-Order in the Guild!
06:06 Test disclaimer
06:30 After 12 days
07:06 Here are the results of all 4 methods
08:33 3 Takeaways
09:45 Marc's plans and recommendation
10:46 Bloopers
#rustprevention #carboncoat #rust
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I applied Carbon Method to my table saw three months ago. Prior to that I was constantly fighting with surface rust (though waxed weekly) due to the humidity in Illinois. Since applying Carbon Method's 10H I have seen zero rust.
We need Project Farm to do some tests! :D
Once again you show why Spag rules. Candor, honesty, and a commitment to your audience. Thanks, Marc.
Nice piece Marc. Rain is particularly aggressive. As the raindrops fall they become saturated, or even supersaturated with carbon dioxide and oxygen. As you mentioned oxygen is required for corrosion to occurs. To measure acidity, we chemists use a scale called pH. The lower the pH the more acidic, the higher the pH the more caustic/alkaline, and neutral is a pH of 7. Adding CO2 to the water makes it acidic as the carbon dioxide forms carbonic acid in the water drops. Normal rainwater, absent smokestack nasties, has a pH of about 5.6, so that appears just a little less than 7. However, pH is what is called a logarithmic scale based on powers of 10. That means plain old rain water is 10 to the 1.4 power more acidic than neutral water or 25 times more acidic. I did my career fighting rust, and trust me that corrosion-wise rain or those dew drops on a rose are corrosion thugs and iron or steel exposed to either needs protection!
Particularly in cities with high concentration of air pollution. The reason the wax only method still resulted in rust is that natural waxes contain high concentrations of acids.
No wonder we have weeds, the higher the ph in soil the more weeds will grow, soil ph should be about 5ph for a healthy lawn, so you put down lime to neutralize the acid in the soils its slow to react but its enough to do the job you can also put down ash to lower soil ph. But its really fast reacting thats why a field thats been in a fire comes back really green.
I forget what metal coating they put on printing press cylinders to stop rust but it works mostly mainly the blanket and plate cylinders becuse they use a ph of about 7 to wash the plates with I think if I remember the ph should be 6.7 its been 30 years.
A sure-fire way to induce this rust is to leave a freshly cut log (bowl blank) standing on the end grain on your table saw and leave it there for a week or so. Don’t ask me how I know.
You also give a hood reason of why it is a good habit to clean the sawdust off your tools after working if it will be more then a few days.
Oof. Same. I learned this today.
I’ve heard a walnut log will leave rust too!
I bought my new SawStop at the start of this year. I cleaned the grease and applied multiple coats of paste wax immediately. Within a couple of months and light use, I started getting rust no matter how much I maintained it. After your first video Marc I picked up the 2-3 tool package of Carbon Method and coated all of my cast iron. Haven’t seen any rust yet and I’m working out of my attached garage that gets opened multiple times a day in all weather. I’m definitely a believer so thank you!
After a year how is Carbon Method holding up? Thanks.
It’s held up really well with no major complaints! Over the winter, during a rainstorm I got some droplets on the table that I wasn’t aware of for a few days. Once I cleaned it up there were a some discoloration spots but didn’t turn to rust. My belt sander table still looks like new. I’ve hit them with the glide coat 1-2 times as needed. We’ll see in another year if I need to reapply but overall it’s been nearly zero maintenance. I used the saw a couple dozen times both with hard woods and plywood. Hope that helps.
My SawStop table saw and Grizzly tools lived in a pole shed for 6yrs in between moves and with indoor rain plus extreme temperature swings in North Central Wisc, I've found the only thing to help control and nearly eliminate all surface rust was a thorough cleaning with rust remover and 0000 steel pad followed by a coating of Jet Seal automotive protection from Chemical Guys. Then using an clean bed sheet cover that and completely cover and surround with stretch wrap to make a good moisture barrier. This beat those expensive anti rust covers hands down. I've tried them all. But my method after a couple years of getting sad and spending hours of removing rust on all my tools worked best to keep them 99% rust free! Luckily I've since moved into a nicer garage upper level and after one final shining up with fine sand paper and steel wool and another coating of jet seal, I haven't had to touch them in 2yrs now even with higher humidity up to 90F in the work shop area. I never even cover the tools now.
Indoor rain is the worst! Indoor freezing rain caused by the condensation that froze to the bottom of the uninsulated part of the shop getting warmed up enough to melt the ice and rain all over your tools (and freeze). Cardboard sheets were my friend for a while. I finally got the whole shop spray foamed and have had no issues since.
Marc, I for one have always admired the open, forthright attitude you have about product endorsements. We all see how much effort you put into avoiding bias in your endorsements. Thanks!
Coincidentally I bought a brand new Sawstop when you did the original test application and applied the Carbon Method to mine as well. I live in southeast Alabama and it is very hot and humid. I fought rust non stop on my previous Grizzly TS and other cast iron equipment. My new Sawstop looks AMAZING still. I can’t recommend Carbon Method enough, it is AWESOME and absolutely works. Make sure you watch their video on how to apply it and follow it to the letter. I put it on my planer/jointer and my band saw as well and they’re still looking perfect. Completely worth every penny to protect such an expensive investment. And yes, the the people at Carbon Method are extremely nice and very professional, great customer service.
My new Sawstop came with a rust colored wax paper on it. My heart stopped for the moments it took me to realize it was indeed wax paper, and not a brand new totally rusted cast iron surface.
Thank you for posting the update with the additional info. It clarified exactly why I've been having so much trouble here in TN... And now I realize... I'm just fighting a losing battle with rust.
I live in deep south Texas 100% humidity all the time. I’ve been using T-9 for about a year now and It’s been doing really well for my machinery, what I really like about it is that it’s also a lubricant, so, for example I can spray the quills on my lathes and it protects and lubricates at the same time. I’ll have to check out carbon method, never heard of it. Thanks for sharing.
I live in Houston and we have to deal with high humidity. Always used T9 before. Had an idea to use an inexpensive ceramic coating (Turtle wax) about a year ago. I'm convinced this is the way to go. Every blue moon, when I think about it, I'll just quickly reapply. Takes 2-seconds. I was interested in the carbon until I saw the laborious process to apply. Try ceramic coating. Works great and super easy to apply. Clean and degrease cast iron first.
ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT THE CERAMIC COATINGS FOR CARS ??? OR WHERE DO I GET IT ??
CRC SP-350 Corrosion Inhibitor came out on top in a 20-product competition published by Fine Woodworking Magazine Aug 2012. Been using it ever since. Superior product, priced well, readily available.
I can really appreciate how unbiased and objective this video is, especially since you revisited the product after the “i got THE newest and greatest stuff!” honeymoon feeling has passed. So many people give skewed reviews because they paid good money for something theyve been told is great by so many people…
Spag: “Now there will be, potentially more tests … I don’t know that that’s necessarily something for *me* to do, it’s certainly something you could investigate.”
Some of these comments: “I’d be interested in seeing you re-do the test except change X, Y, or Z.”
Thank you Marc. I left some damp wood on my table top and about cried when I moved it the next day. I am sure it is more surface rust, but your in depth research and your willingness to share are much appreciated.
So glad you reviewed this, I've seen a few ads by them that seemed a bit like "snake-oil" for treating all types of products other than tools. However, your review has convinced me that it works for what most of us would want to use it for, protecting our cast iron. Thanks for taking the time to do it!
Just discovered your channel. Love it! I'm not a professional wood worker, just a hobbyist but have been for 30 plus years. I've always used TriFlo on my table saw. I'm sure this is either going to be bocked at or maybe all you seasoned wood workers out there will say "wow, I never thought of that". I work in industrial maintenance and know welding and quite a bit about metals in general. I know that cast iron is porous so here's my take on the use of TriFlow on my table. TriFlo contains telflon. This teflon will be absorbed into the cast iron and stay there for quite some time, not for ever though. I usually treat my table a couple times a year. I might also mention that my saw has spent much of it's life out doors under an awning and my treatment works quite well to prevent rust unless it gets water directly on it.
My procedure is this: I spray the entire table down generously with TriFlo. I scrub it in with some fine sand paper. This makes a dirty, dark mess. I then use paper towels to clean off this mess. I follow this up with more TriFlo scrubbing with clean paper towels. I rinse, repeat until my paper towels are clean. This assures you will not leave dirty, oily marks on wood you slide across the table. This leaves my table saw clean, shiny and very slippery which makes wood slide very nicely. I also wipe the face of my fence and all the moving parts with TriFlo as well. Makes everything work silky smooth.
Always respect your honesty when it comes to these things, thanks Marc!
This is why I have trusted your reviews for so many years. Thanks for the deep dive.
Thanks for a very informative video. My shop is in north east Kansas, surely identical climate as yours in Missouri. I only use paste wax on the surfaces of my cast iron machinery and have no issues with surface rust. But, I run a dehumidifier in my 1500 square foot shop from April through September. Thirty years ago surface rust was a problem before I started running a dehumidifier. Over those 30+ years I have gone through four dehumidifiers, they seem to only last 4-5 years. The dehumidifier protects my machinery, my hand planes, chisels and measuring tools from any signs of rust. Also, the lumber stored in the shop is protected from the high humidity common to this area. Using a simple pedestal fan combined with the low humidity it is pretty comfortable while working in the shop.
Good video, and it's good to know they were there to help. I have a test running on 3 tools, but of course I don't have your humidity. 😅
This is terrific! Thank you for your honesty, candor, and integrity. It’s great to see a maker who gives us the whole story and is willing to go the extra mile to give us accurate info. Kudos to you, Marc! 👍🏼
I appreciate that!
I had some rust form on my table saw from lack of use - almost 2 years. What I did was spray a good coat of WD-40 on it and let it sit for almost 2 weeks. I then wiped it off with a rag and then sanded it using 220 grit sandpaper on my palm sander. It took awhile but it eventually took all the rust away and left my top looking like it did when it was brand new. Worked for me. 😁
I went with Carbon Method based on your first video and have loved it. Much better than Glidecoat. Thanks for the validation that your hunch and my jumping in based on your hunch was the right answer.
Considering how long they sat in storage after being in light rain I would say it did a pretty good job. I have been using Glide coat on my SawStop for about 5 years here in Texas and haven't had a problem with rust here since I started using it. I did have problems with wax, and CRC 3 36. The Glide coat has out done both of those.
Thanks for that note! I just went to check out the carbon coat product, but their website isn’t responding. If they’re gone, I’ll pick up some Glide Coat!
Spag!! You son of a... wait that stuff worked great! I live in a temperate rain forest in Juneau AK. With a Labrador retriever that likes to shake off near the table saw after chasing a frisbee in the rain. A lot. And it rains here.. A Lot and we're high humidity. No rust spots on mine. I did the entire prep and sanding process with for doing the Carbon Method and my table saw still feels "like butter" in smoothness on top.
Highly recommend. Much better than wax in feel and performance when breaking down a couple of sheets of 4x8 3/4" plywood over the weekend. Sled moves lots easier as well.
Thank you for always being honest and being upfront with your reviews
Coincidently, I ended up needing to pack up my shop to move a few weeks after Marc announced his move. Based upon his initial suggestion, I applied Carbon Method to all my tools. I then put moving blankets over everything and moved my tools into a garage for storage. 5 months then passed and I just unpacked everything this weekend and I can happily say not a spot of rust anywhere. Carbon Method seemed to have done its job.
Just to further support this product, I live in Washington state in the Pacific Northwest, so it is a pretty humid area. The last few months were actually pretty dry, but we did have some rain in the past month and the garage was opened and closed every day as a wet vehicle was driven in and out.
A dehumidifier in the shop is a big help. I run the hose out the back of the unit to drain out by the garage door or else I'd be emptying it 3 times a day in the summer.
Nice test process, Marc. This stuff definitely looks like a contender for cast iron protection. Thanks for following thru on this~!
BTW, I saw another RUclipsr using CarbonMethod as a finish on a wood project (surprise~!) and it produced a pretty nice looking result. Apparently it's multi-talented~!
Thanks for the follow up, I appreciate the transparency.
I know you paid for the product with a video and attached your good name to it, so your disappointment is very real, and I can 'feel' that.
Obviously cast iron should never have standing water droplets on it, but sometimes it happens and when it does in my shop (and I suspect many more) it is in the form of a sweat droplet that goes unnoticed and sits overnight or even days before being discovered.
Since Carbon Method failed the real-world rain droplet test I have no confidence it would protect cast iron from a droplet of sweat.
If the application of Carbon Method was a one-off event the price could be rationalized, but reapplication after fixing rust spots is too much.
I use T9 on my cast iron machine tops. One day I opened the overhead door in my two car garage shop after a driving rain and water dripped off the door sections onto my jointer/planer. The trouble is I didn't notice this happened for a few days after the event so rust developed. I used the T9 cleaner with a scrubby pad and recoated with the T9 protectant. All seems to be good so T9 is fine for ambient air moisture but not standing water. I live in very humid Southeastern North Carolina. Once I run out of the T9 I will try the Carbon Method product.
Science! Love it, thanks Marc. Rust is always a pain in humid areas, like mine..
I live in Michigan. Tons of humidity in my metal pole barn. The best I have found is a product called Fluid Film. Spray it on, wipe off excess. Done! My jointer table slides awesome and my 15 inch grizzly planer gets no more rust.
After struggling with rust issues for ~20 years and trying all sorts of prevention methods, IMO the only fool proof approach is to control the temperature and humidity in your shop to ensure that the surface temperature of your tools never drops below the dew point. The best thing I ever did in my old shop was to spend money on insulation. Then it didn't cost much in heating costs to always keep the temperature above 50F, which even in the 90% RH climate was enough to prevent rust. In the semi-arid desert climate I live in now, that's not something I need to worry much about. Wood is a lot more stable, too.😉
Could have used this 20 years ago when I moved to a humid state. Now I need to do Hand Tool Rescue to them all.
If it sat in a garage (MO humidity no less) and that's all that happened? That's incredible. I'll definitely pick up a set. TY
I'm going to have to give that product a try. I live about 40 miles south of you and my shop is open to the outdoor air. I've lived and worked outdoors in Missouri all my life..I've acclimated. Anyway, all of my tools always have a thin film of rust on them that I'm constantly cleaning off. Wax doesn't seem to do a thing. The worst part is the rust that gets on the Lie-Nielsen planes. I've shed more than one tear in my bourbon over that. Anyway, thanks for the recommendation.
I don't really mind having to give the surfaces a little TLC every few months. It serves as a reminder that I need to check them for accuracy as well. Never really had big problems occuring with just a wax coating, though I just put a thick coat on without wiping it off after I use a machine that only gets used a few times a year.
I only have a small space heater and two fans to circulate the air in my shop to try and keep if above freezing over winter and even so I still get rust on my Sawstop and bandsaw even when applying a thick coat of JPW AND covering with magnetic table top covers. As a result I'm really interested in anything that can help me better protect my tools year around.
I have to say I just love you and your channel. You know in that manly sort of way.
Always appreciate how thorough you are dude
Great follow up. I love me some spag science.
I’d second all the comments that would love to see how you fix/rehab both the table saw and the drill press table. That’s the scenario all of us southern woodworkers have to deal with!
Just here to say I thoroughly enjoy your videos when they come up I get excited. Thank you
I am in N.E. Missouri also. Yes we have times through the year the shop will need a dehumidifier & some kind of metal protectant. I made a BIG oops when I used my HVLP sprayer with water base polyurethane. A lot of the tools hanging on the wall had rust on them the next morning. Yes I had the exhaust fan on but I shut it off too soon I guess.
There are many auto detailing channels which have reviewed graphine coatings (for different benefits) and they largely come to the conclusion that they are a marketing product. While great on paper, graphine is a very hard substance, they bring little actual protection that the substrate is not already providing. Ceramic coatings (a common substrate for graphine) usually offers the same protection and a slightly slicker top surface. While there are probably better or less expensive products this might be a good choice for some.
Good to hear it held up like it did. Thanks for explaining it so well.
Marc, Thank you for all your testing on camera with the results. With your test results and comments also backed up by several other woodworkers, I will be purchasing the Carbon Coat method kit. Now the question is by applying a coat of paste wax on top of the carbon coat would you get any additional protection. I know it's hard to improve on perfection which is maybe as you would get with Carbon Coat but I'm thinking since metal is somewhat porous Carbon Coat pretty much does a fantastic job of filling in the pores and covering but if a coat of wax might slightly improve that even more. Could be that it is not worth the trouble to wax as the wax would just wear off quicker.
Glad to hear it worked out and you got to the bottom of the performance of the product.
Love the goonies/cypress hill ending.
This would be a great segment for Project Farm to dig deeper!
Please do a video on how you do rust repair to get a new/as good as new surface.
Please!
I think he talked about it in the first video. I think James Hamilton also has a video on that subject (and everything else woodworking related)
That is the plan! :)
Are you going to do a follow up sometime soon on how it goes with actual usage? I bought some for my sawstop and it definitely works better for pure rust prevention however my experience with usage is completely different. I've found that once your cast iron gets dirty from use and needs to be cleaned that you disrupt that lower layer when you clean it, meaning I would much rather a cheaper product that I just apply more regularly as I have to clean the top regularly anyway
Thanks for the info. In NC humidity is my only problem so I think it will work great for my shop
Even with the initial unwrapping I think it still did a great job this product definitely passed very nice stuff.
I am surprised that a proper coat of wax still leaves steel so vulnerable to rust. It would be good if you could also test the carbon method product durability Marc.
And finally the composition of the metal is a factor. For instance, my Sawstop tarnishes surprisingly quickly.
I have a table saw in a garage in steamy Central Florida. I applied Carbon Method as paste wax was not doing the job. It appears to be working for me so far. Good update and further testing.
Wax seems to be the common element in your testing that showed rust. Likely the wax, while hydrophobic, does allow some moisture penetration and then traps that small amount of moisture which now has the opportunity to work at the molecular level to create iron oxide. Furthermore, as you certainly know, wax on wood furniture does not prevent rings-there is always a bit of hydration that gets wicked down to the wood.
I use Bostik TopCoat for my equipment. It has served me well for years. Although it is quite environmentally unfriendly when wet.
I'm just here for Marc's hips swinging back and forth like a grandfather clock
Fantastic testing, Marc! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The only coating I've used on a variety of cast iron tools is Slip-It. I used the spray bottle. 14 year old Delta table saw - no rust. I just wipe down the surface after a day of use.
Hi, great video, just let me give my 2 cents as a chemist, rust is an electrochemical process occurring on the surface of the metals, we stop the corrosion process puting a layer of protectant between our surface and the environment so the best protectant is the product that sticks the best and does it in a more uniform way. So even wax is a good barrier to moisture you just cannot make it stick forever even without touching it. The lets say agic of carbon methond is that stick better and forms a uniform layer over the metal. Anb about the water some well water have small amounts of iron on it so yu can imagine some times the droppets rust because this tiny amount of free ironm that why in some places you have rust stains on the bathrooms and sinks even if there is no steel hardware around.
Thanks for the nice review and followup. Given the cost of Carbon Method I decided I would try Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Spray Coating at 1/4 the cost on my new Sawstop. Cleaned with mineral spirits and coated everything and a couple coats on the cast top. Not sure how long it will last but super slick right now. Very easy to apply as well.
Love the testing of different methods but I feel like I should point out that you used steel for the tests and not cast iron. Not sure what kinda difference it makes but those two types of metals would have a different molecular make-up that could affect the results.
Great video. I'm already liking the company giving you free reign to blast them, if need be, by standing by their product. Plus, doing extra tests based off your recommendations. Makes me think of Tommy Boy, the warranty scene.
I'll be honest, that's rediculously good protection if you barely had any rust. I've had rust spots appear when something wet touches it and it's whiped up after. The fact that the protection method kept it that clean for 2 months *after* exposure is impressive.
Still, the best way to protect your tools is to keep water away from. Put oil on the tool and wrap it in cling wrap. Or when in use I find waxing it after use to do the trick.
Great review. Can't fault the science. The mysterious well water stain maybe due to residual iron or minerals or salt from a softener. Barring that, it was shop Gremlins.
I usually use odies oil finish for my projects and when I am done with the scotch brite I use to apply finish I usually find a machine in the shop to rub down again. The cost is free essentially vs paying 80 dollars for this carbon method stuff. I live next to the ocean in a very humid area and I have zero rust issues. You don't need to spend 80 bucks to protect your tools
I haven't seen anyone (may have missed such) do an update to Fine Woodworking's article in the July/August 2012, beginning page 30, testing 20 different rust preventer products on cast iron. As the photos showed, and the article confirmed, CRC 3-36 turned out to be the best choice, and was one of the least expensive. I have been using it since with no rust on my table saw. Due to a move, it sat unused for a year in a northern state, followed by 3 years in an out building in a southern state. No rust. Just now getting back to using it.
Glad to see this. I ordered a carbon method kit after seeing your first video… I just haven’t gotten around to using it yet.
Good to know. I need to do better about protecting my tools. I am in Southern Indiana and it does get quite humid here.
Content is looking good in the new shop! 🎉
I did mine about 4 months ago, and so far so good. Of course there’s no rain in my shop. 😅
There is a reason your the king of the woodworking RUclips. It’s always a good day when I get to watch the new upload. Don’t get me wrong there is some good ones out there; bourbon moth, Jay bates, mwa woodworks but no one has the knowledge of Spag.
Car wax or even some car products like rain X would have effectively protected you table saw from all forms of moisture, although you'd have to reapply more often still the comparative cost savings and ease of application makes it far better !
Thanks for the update. I have a very old table saw that seems to have rust appear even with no exposure to water. Looks like I’ll be looking into getting some Carbon Method.
I sprayed have a bottle of t-9 on my cast iron top. Initially. I had regrets. Now, I’m happy. Recommend the Boeing T-9. It’s a a simple process but for a second you think it’s not working.
Wipe off excess. Good to go.
Thank you. Been looking for something really good to put on my tools. Looks like I have found something that will work.
For that price, it should've prevented that mild rain and humidity from being an issue.
I'm in Florida, on the Gulf of mexico, in a garage that is nit sealed. There are days when my 315 Craftsman table saw has a layer of water on it that i have to wipe off.
Not to mention in summer, it gets to 120f with 85% humidity... on a "nice" day.
Then theres the salty air. Anything not Stainless Steel (and some things that are stainless steel) start to rust immediately down here.
And over the past year, I'm yet to have rusting since using a $30 bottle of ceramic coating car wax. I dont even have the bottle anymore since I transfered the gel into a different bottle (that has a silicone spreader and a microfiber attachment that lets me apply it easily.
So, to get spots like those, from a product that costly, is a scam to me. Dont get me wrong, live your hustle, but its definitely not as good as the cheap ceramic car coating polish i use.
I clean the table really well. I then apply a coat, wait 5 minutes, them buff it out. I do that 4 times. I did it last time in may of last year. And this winter, el nino has brought insane levels of humidity. My garage floor was a large puddle a few weeks ago. And it caused a lot of rust to develop on a lot of things... but not the cast iron tool tops i used that stuff on.
So, make your living with paid promotions, but this video proved to me that its an inferior product.
Great video. I learn a lot watching them. I do have to watch out for rust in my shop and your test was great. I may try the Carbon Method system as well. Thanks again.
I’ve had good luck spraying cast iron with shellac. Have done any spags science but table saw sat out in garage for a couple years with a furniture pad on top to protect and didn’t see rust.
I use ACF-50 on some tools - learned about it from use on motorcycles, which I submerge in mud puddles a few times each year. It smells like WD40, but actually seems to work. Would still need a wax or carbon coat to lower friction.
Thanks Marc - good information
I live in Chicagoland and we have wide amount of temperature and humidity changes throughout the year. My 3-car garage shop is unheated and I need to store a car and two motorcycles in it along with all of my tools, machines and lumber. In the wintertime I am shutdown and I treat my machines for long term storage in the late fall. I clean all cast iron surfaces of any rust, dirt and dust thoroughly before applying a very heavy coat of Boeshield T-9. I let that dry for several days, cover it with heavy plastic (55 gallon plastic lawn bags which I had available) and top it off with several layers of cloth automotive fender covers.
The T-9 prevents rust, the plastic protects against moisture and dirt accumulation which can lead to rust and the blanket adds some protection against condensation due to changes in air temperature and humidity. In the springtime a quick wipe down with mineral spirits to remove the T-9, several applications of wax and I’m back in business.
Had this process been used by Marc I don’t believe he would of had any issues whatsoever. I do think that the product he used would be great in a climate controlled environment or certainly better than commonly used wax treatments we often do. I’ve been doing the treatments I described for 30 years with very good success yet I’m always looking for something better other than a giant vacuum bag.
Try using distilled water for your tests. Distilled water turns out to be very corrosive. The corrosion engineer I worked with tested paints using distilled water. I also found that for reverse osmosis components plastic components are recommended. The r/o faucet and tubing in my house are plastic. After a little checking I found pex piping was recommended for use with r/o systems. It has something to do with distilled water being deionized.
When it came to college chemistry I developed my theory to explain the s and p orbitals of electrons: "If I can't see it, it doesn't exist." For some reason my Teaching Fellow didn't subscribe to my theory.
Bob
Not to be a one-upper but my table saw has taken quite a beating for the past two months. My wife put wet life jackets all over it and it was absolutely completely covered in a thick layer of rust. Just as I had cleaned that up, my roof sprung a leak and the point where the water came down was right over my tablesaw. After being diligent and cleaning it again, it has become apparent that it seems almost irreparable. The nice beautiful sheen I used to have is now pitted with marks that look like water stain.
Thanks for all the information
For storage, Vasilene and Stretch Wrap is the way to go.
Idk, I wouldnt put it on though after seeing this...I get you dont want or shouldnt have standing water....but if im putting on a protectant I expect it to protect the surface from conditions that can cause rust.....the fact the standing water went through the Carbon Method and was able to have iron etc is a problem....there should be a practically impenetrable shield placed around the piece if the protectant was put on properly which to me says its not worth the $$.
Water drops can spend about a day on a vehicle and I can put a protectant that lasts about a year before reapply...zero rust....but I cant use this stuff to protect it unless I wipe up every bit of water that touched it????
I understand it may have been ideal conditions to cause it...but I would also argue there are other products out there that it simply doesnt matter if there is those same conditions...it will still keep any rust from forming/....
just an opinion.
In the end there are a ton of waxes ranging from garbage to the latest....and wax protectants havent just changed the last ten years but they jumped lightyears as far as protection goes...with the addition of ceramics and graphene....
So it would have been nice to know what exact wax was applied.
even though humidity can be a problem in nz, my biggest problem is when i drop bead of sweat on the top of tools and not notice. next day i have a lovely rust spot.
I put a cheaper brand of ceramic coating on my windshield a few years ago for rain repellent and it still does a great job without any glare,,try it guys you wont regret it..
Been waiting on this follow up!
Thanks for the testing and info. Do you know if they have any opinion about putting a wax on top of their product? That could be an inexpensive secondary layer to prolong the life of their product finish by creating a small film barrier between the actual surface and materials you push over it. Kind of like how car detailers will put a ceramic coat on a car's paint and then periodically put another product on top of that to prolong the much more expensive and time-consuming ceramic coat.
I suppose also applying wax could defeat the purpose, but after seeing how wax alone performed, I wouldn't want to use it by itself anyway if I were in a high humidity shop.
Where is Grady at Practical Engineering when you need him? He has a whole rustomatic contraption that would be ideal to test this stuff.
Marc - Great update, very well done.
Does the Carbon Coat provide the kind of lubricity that one would expect when when using some of the other methods ?
Great bong impression! Lol
If you’re going to be storing your cast iron tools for months, it’s probably best to just go ahead and coat it in grease and plastic like when they ship it from the factory. It’s worth the trouble of cleaning it off for the peace of mind.
Love your work and your videos! I’m writing you which is a year after this video was produced. Can you tell me how your tools are holding up with the Carbon coat??
Chris
1:37 What drill press table is that? Did it come with the machine? That looks ideal! No need to mess around clamping & unclamping removable tops/fences.
Marc, show us how you would clean these surfaces. Please include the drill press.