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this was brand new. Broke my heart!
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2023
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So you saying that this conditioning oil and your hand rubbing was able to remove a raised piece of rusted iron that was a little proud of the rest of the table, and WD-40 with a DA orbital sander couldn't remove it or didn't remove it? What's in that oil??? Or is your hand job a lot better than your mechanical sander??? It's either the oil removing iron that WD-40 couldn't remove, or your hand motion removed iron that your DA couldn't remove???
Or is it just the conditioning oil teamed up with your hand that could actually dissolve iron that WD-40 and a dual action orbital sander couldn't remove???
Could have used a slightly more aggressive pad, sand paper, ot whatever you use.
@@eldie3d I honestly am not sure. Was perplexed by it. Could be that I let the oil soak on it longer?
Easy fix, use Chemical guys “water spot remover” it’s a orange liquid that breaks down the Ph of the iron oxide. It will remove all the stains like it was never there. Been through this myself, it was a godsend. Also works on car glass water spots btw. It’s like a heavy duty CLR, but better.
Also may sound crazy but rather then a tool wax, I would use the wax off baby bell cheese to wax my tool surfaces, works a charm.
Just setup my sawstop and wanted to do the carbon coat, i placed the order but your code didnt work for the 10% off :-/
Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.
oh wow.
if you ever have to do anything like this again may i suggest covering the cast in paper towels and soaking them in your solution of choice. wd40 pb blaster evaporust or that stuff from carbon coat. let the towels sit for a half hr or so. most of my tools are second hand and ive used this method to restore quite a few cast tops really helps.
Cost-Effective, Long lasting restoration for rusty Cars/Old machinery:
1. Use Mild Acetic or Citric acid solution to dissolve the rust first. It is extremely effective. Wire-brush.
2. Then go in with a hydrocarbon based solvent (WD40), Or just plain old 50-50 Kerosene+Diesel. (Wire-Brush and Sanding)
2.5. Use Galvanising Zinc spray for everything other than machined surfaces.
3. Spray finish everything with Polyurethane or acrylic clear-coat. (Wax/Polish/Buff optional)
BAM. Rust proofed for 25 years.
Agreed or naval jelly or evapo-rust.
yeah soak in paper towels and maybe plastic wrap on top to prevent the paper towels drying out for a longer soak. evaporust is pretty amazing
The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.
Bingo! Don't turn it into a potato chip for the sake of some ideal of aesthetics.
I would genuinely be shattered if I walked into my shop to see this. When I saw your community post I thought there's no way it could be as bad as he's making it out to be, but damn man, I feel for you. I'm sure you'll get this a billion times but would insurance have covered replacement parts?
Still waiting to hear back. 🤞
Tbh if the motor housing is holding water I think you would just call the whole thing FUBAR, it's probably not worth the work/risk of failure assuming he has the right insurance and most of a replacement is covered.
Only if he had a rider on his homeowners insurance that also covered the contents of the home for water damage.
@@vhoward1122 Note that it can also depend on the source of the water damage, and all of this is highly dependent on the fine print of the policy. Ie, my homeowners covers a burst pipe, but doesn't cover a failed sump pump (And boy do I wish I'd known that before my sump pump failed...)
My experience suggests that claims such as this, when the insurance company pays you, it’s really just a loan payed back under the guise of rate increases. Sometimes it’s better to eat the loss rather than forcing the insurance claim.
It looks good. I don't know if it matters if it's a couple thou out, but are you worried about how flat it is? If there is a machine shop with a surface grinder in your area you can probably get them to grind the surface flat again. It might also clear off more of the staining
Oh my wow!!! Yes my heart sank a bit for you. My wife's grandfather passed away about 5 months ago and he has a saw stop. I mention this because we have talked to her grandma and when she is ready to let go of it I will be the one to get it. If I have something like that happen to it I would probably cry because it would mean so much to me for the simple fact that it belonged to my wife's grandpa. I'm glad you were able to salvage it almost back to the previous condition and I really like and appreciate your videos. They help people like me that are new to woodworking and I can't wait to learn more from people like you. Thank you and Happy Building 😁
I did a restore of a table saw that I bought used. Sanding with WD 40 worked up to a degree but, once I switched over to a better lubricant I noticed a big difference. Started with 80grit and worked up to 220grit and then gave it a lubricant and wiped it in two or three times before I felt I did all I could. Was pleased with the outcome.
My table saw is 50+ years old the top is gray one of the wing has some pitting filled with epoxy. It had been stored outside had severe rust on the top sanded initially with 220 on a ROS then finer grits, not shiny but slick and smooth works great !
I restore Vintage and Antique machinery. I have completed work for Private Owners, Corporations, National Museums and National & State Park Visitor Centers.
CAUTION: Using a soft "Red" pad is not recommended. It can ruin the plane (flatness) of the saw table.
I recommend you try using Flat (NEW) Carborundum sharpening stones of several grades with Isopar (odorless Kerosene) or Stove Fuel as the grinding Solvent.
Use the same action you would as if you were lapping mating metal surfaces to maintain the flatness of the tabletop.
You will be able to see this in the original grinding pattern from the manufacturer. As you remove material, the crowns of the pattern will be become obvious.
If you remove more from one area as opposed to another, the crowns will be wider (lower) in the areas where more material was removed.
All crowns should be the same width when finished. Indicating that you have maintained the original surface plane.
NOTE: WD-40 gets sticky and attracts dust & debris over time and can cause "Fisheyes" in final finishes!
I use the standard 100/240 Dual-Grit type stones to destroy rust on Cast Iron flat surfaces. You do not need to go crazy with Super-Fine grits - Read on to understand why.
NEVER focus too much on one area! If the surface is that bad take the tabletop sections to an automotive machine shop as others have said in the comments.
Have them remove as little as possible or risk weakening the sections or mismatching the ability to match planes upon reassembly.
As other contributors have mentioned... Do not worry about the "Staining"!
It adds character to your now unique saw table making it more identifiable should some low life grab it out of your shop. Want a perfect top - buy a new one!
Once you are down to the surface you desire, I highly recommend white paper towels & Isopropyl Alcohol to remove all the Swarf from restoring the surface.
After the pores have completely dried out (the alcohol has all evaporated) follow-up using a product named "Fluid Film". IT IS THE BEST corrosion inhibitor, PERIOD.
You can get it at LOWE'S. Less is more with this product. Insert the pipette (for more even dispersal) and spray a light pattern from 18-20" over the "Open-Pore" surface.
I have found that when you have applied as much as you believe to be the necessary amount - I have applied FOUR TIMES as much as is needed! Waste-Not!
Using your fingertips, spread/massage (smear in circular action) the Fluid-Film into the pores. Remove any pooling. (You don't need that much.) Let it sit flat overnight.
Fluid Film is Lanolin Based and continually spreads into pores and across surfaces on the molecular level. It is truly magical stuff! It even washes out of clothing easily!
Next day using an Isopropyl [dampened] towel (Paper or Cloth) remove as much of the Fluid-Film as you are able, leaving only the pores full of the corrosion inhibitor.
Take your time & wipe dry with isopropyl [dampened] towels, any leaching Fluid Film. That is any Fluid Film spreading out of the pores onto the surface to be waxed.
NOW - you apply several coats of quality Paste Wax furniture polish. Minwax is the best but is now hard to find. Allow the polish to dry completely between coats.
This is where the necessity for the Super-Fine abrasives is not essential - the application of the paste wax needs something to grab onto. Clean metal & a grit profile.
You are now finished restoring your rusted saw tables. The lumber material will GLIDE over the Wax Surface as though angels have laid their hands upon the wood!
Keep an eye on the condition of the wax treatment and reapply as necessary! This varies with Usage & Exposure.
Enjoy your saw table.
Best Regards,
R. Newcomb, MKCM, USCG Retired
If the rust is that bad skip the 3m pads and start with real sand paper… wet sand it starting at about 600-800 grit, then hit it with 100-1200 grit, then switch to the 3m pads for final “buffing”… another note, he was cleaning the 3m pads using a piece of plywood… just clean them with water in a utility sink.
It’s cast iron, it’s flat. Use a flat board with 100 grit automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. Work your way in steps to 600 or 800 or even greater. WD-40 is a good lubricant. No need for anything fancy. If you are looking for accuracy, disassemble and have it surfaced by a machinist. This is standard practice on cast iron cylinder heads and blocks. Keep the surface oiled or use furniture polish. Much cheaper.
I was given a table saw that had been sitting in a old storage building and had been rained on for 2-3 years. I did what you did and got a lot of rust off and the saw works as good as a new one.
Wow, I do feel your agony. I would also have felt devastated.
A month or so ago I laid a kiln dried 2x4 over my table saw. I should have laid this over the melamine extension, but thought kiln dried would not be a problem. A week or so later I was shocked at the rust under the 2x4. This was just high humidity not the standing water from your devastating water leak. A lesson learned. My rust and stains were not so deep.
Sadly you may need a re-grinding to remove all the stains.
Dave.
To most of us (specially DIYers) who payed for those tools in whole or in installments those tools might be like our children. Seeing your tools get damaged in anyway hurts a little.
yeah it hurts. SawStop did NOT give me that saw.
I feel your pain man. When I first saw the damage it felt almost as bad as getting kicked in the groin….
You might consider trying a scrub with Bar Keepers Friend to remove the "staining". It's a powdered cleanser with Oxalic Acid, used a lot in the carbon steel knife world to remove patinas, and it does a really great job in my experience.
Yup bar keepers friend does wonders, use it on my pots and they gleam better than new
I am so sorry. I understand your heart wrenching fear. I went through two basement floods with my 1967 craftsman table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw and drill press. They all survived. But the anxiety the fear then frustration and anger was unparalleled. I know it will be alright. Every test makes us stronger. I am sorry and know that we have your back.
So sorry you had to go through this tedium, brother. But from the moment I saw the thumbnail, I knew it was going to turn out okay. It’s amazing what a lot of elbow grease can do to restore cast iron suffering from topical rust. I echo what others have said in that I’m glad you still have a badass table saw and hope your insurance is good to you. Positive vibes from Texas.
I would have started with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver. Cover the surface with heavy rags and poured this stuff on then covered with plastic. The next day used those pads. Pits don't matter on the surface. You can always fill them in with red paint to match the saw.
I would have started with the insurance claim. With all of the other damage in the house, he's already covered the deductible.
That is heartbreaking. You have my sympathy.
Most of the machines in my shop are old cast iron, often purchased in poor cosmetic condition. I bought a jointer that had been stored outdoors. It looked like your saw. Boeshield RustFree has been very good at removing the old rust staining from bare cast iron surfaces. It's fairly noxious to use but it works. Good ventilation is a must but you don't want a breeze blowing across the surface that you're cleaning. Your mechanical process combined with RustFree would very likely give you bright cast iron again. I'm located on the humid Gulf Coast so I treat all of my cast iron machines with Boeshield T-9 once they're clean. I spray it on, let it soak for 24 hours, wipe off the excess and let it completely dry. Allow another day for the T-9 to dry. After all of that the surfaces still get paste wax but rust doesn't develop once the machines are treated. I have a schedule of cleaning the cast iron with mineral spirits every two years and retreating from scratch so I'll never have to do heavy cleaning again.
5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.
Plain white vinegar removes rust fairly well. Can be used in the first steps to remove the bulk of rust then dry and oil after
Our local MakerSpace was the recipient of a water damaged Saw Stop. The original owner gave it to us after his insurance "bought him a new one". He didn't want to trust the electronics. I called Saw Stop and they said that if the saw turns on and runs, then the electronics are fine. We've used the saw for several years now, and saved any number of fingers, and the saw works great.
that's great!
Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person
For those unaware, Evaporust makes a gel version of their product. Obviously its intended purpose is for vertical objects, but instead of soaking rags in liquid Evaporust as another commenter suggested, it’s probably more cost effective to hunt down the gel version. It’s the most uncooperative sticky goo imaginable, but it stays put once you get it where it needs to be. And is just as effective as the liquid version.
When we restored our older delta saw we used razor blades to scrap the rust away, use almost no pressure holding the blade at a 45 degree. Lube the surface with wd40.
I'd sand it more aggressively until the stains come out. You can always sand it back w/finer grit to get back to a smoother finish/look.
Why bother?
@@bloho_design because it bothers the OP.
Dude the thumbnail alone made me cry, hope everything works itself out brother been watching you for a while now and your humility and honesty has always been refreshing
I may have cried. thank you 🙂
Not ruined. Use a rust remover on it and sand it down with medium or course steel wool. After you get the rust off, rub it down with a fine steel wool, clean it real good, and then put a good coat of a hard wax on it.
Rust is the reality of any tool made of cast iron. Keep it dry and keep it sealed or waxed.
When I first saw the thumbnail I thought, "wow that's an odd looking table saw", and then I started watching and I thought it wasn't that bad, it's only rust. But then I tried to put myself in your shoes, after buying a brand new table saw and that happening, and I would've been upset. That said, I've never owned a quality table saw, except for my grandpop's very old Sears Craftsman saw. And recently I just bought another vintage Sears (belt driven) table saw from a nice guy on Craigslist and it has a decent amount of rust on the top. Which is surprising since we live in New Mexico and metal can stay bare for years without rusting. Compared to growing up in Jersey and metal rusts UNDERNEATH painted surfaces lol.
So I'm sorry for your troubles but its given me hope and will help me get my table saw smooth.
Pro-tip folks... do not use the green Simple Green, and leave it on for more than a few seconds, because it leaves similar staining... ask me how I know. I need to get some of this reconditioning oil.
If you end up having to replace the arbor block with the microchip, I'd love a video. I had to do it, but I found an engineer to do it with me, and I didn't get to film it because he was moving so fast. It was a wild process, and the SS instructions suck. Best of luck if you have to do it... keep track of the parts and label them!
I’m hoping I don’t have to swap it out. But that water makes me nervous.
I wouldn't be worried at all if it happened to my machines. Removing rust is easy if you understand it's chemistry. I would have applied a mild acid mixed with a thickener, such as corn starch, on the surface. Leave it for a couple of hours and then sand the surface progressively from 220 down to 400 and a final buff and polish. The staining is actually rust trapped in the grit pattern and water droplets. You're not getting a deep enough cut into the metal reach remove it. You'll always get staining unless it's polished with a buffing pad.
I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.
That’s great! I’ll look into the disk!
Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.
My condolences!
Acquired an old Craftsman table saw a few years ago, in terrible shape. Rust, warped extensions, no fence, no miter gauge, electrical problems. Turned out the electrical was the easy part. Found an original miter gauge that fits perrrrfectly! Eventually got a Shopfox fence. Sanded, and sanded, and.... sanded. Scrubbed, ...... Got it looking decent. Runs well. Cuts well.
Someone recommended covering it with a moving blanket. Rusted up again, and now needs some more TLC. Well, I guess I chalk that one up to experience, and move on.
Hang in there! And again, you have my full and complete sympathy. Just remember, the sun WILL come up tomorrow. And I hate to mention this, but remember that, contrary to common belief, lightning DOES strike twice. Forewarned is forearmed!
happened to my (much cheaper) saw. unfortunately I suspect with my sanding out the top, I may have unleveled the surface. Or it unleveled itself and I happened to notice after. Just an ever so slight convex curve. perhaps because I went more aggressive at the front and back edge where the rust was worse. check to be sure youre still flat.
You can rinse the Scotchbrite pad out with water, blow it out with compressed air and will clear out the rust so you can start over. T9 Rust remover and T9 Boeshield is best. I get sick when I see 1 speck of rust on my table saw. I know how you feel.
Commenting at the comment requested time. I purchased a 6" jointer that was rusted from an auction and , yes it took some time and some elbow grease, but I cleaned up quite nicely with just penetrating oil and work. Yes there is some staining in places but works just the same. So I say the saw will clean up and be perfectly usable (assuming the electrics are still good) but you may see some blemished that trigger you or other people. If your unhappy with the results I will gladly take it of your hands.
I lived on a tropical island and ran a wood shop. Rust was always an issue just because of humidity on a regular basis but we had a typhoon come through once and damaged the cast iron on EVERYTHING. We sanded with 120 grit, then up the stages to 400, and then used paste wax to give a smooth finish so we could run wood smoothly across the surface. Everything went back to being operational and we just ensured the next time a typhoon came through to cover everything in plastic.
I’ve restored old tools and always they come covered in rust. My favorite thing to do before finishing with scotch brite and oil similar to what you did is soak it in evaporust. For big surfaces soak paper towels lay them out flat then cover with Saran Wrap to prevent evaporation and wait. A few rounds of this does wonders.
I put Carbon Method on my Saw Stop when I bought it last June. I swear by that stuff. I live in hot and humid southeastern Alabama and my TS is still rust free. Apply it properly per the manufacturer’s instructions and it’ll serve you well.
Had a similar issue with a 3-week-old Rikon bandsaw.
Only 24 hours of a roof leek onto the table bed in a partially temp controlled environment caused orange rust.
I was horrified and had to jump into action!
WD40 and scotch pads did most of the work. Top coated with good ol’ paste wax.
Is it smooth and flush? Yes.
Does it have a unique staining pattern? Most definitely!
(Not as cool as yours though)
The bandsaw and table are in fine shape.
It’s the stupid roof I’ve got to take care of!
The workshop is joy.
Until you have to use your skills to fix the actual workshop!
An annoying test of patience.
Which BTW is the most valuable lesson to learn and master in woodworking. IMO.
Patience.
Walk away and think.
Patience.
Work the problem.
Patience.
Fix.
As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet.
The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!
Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!!
Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on RUclips. Brilliant.
@@wittworks Nice! I’ll see how well I’m able to clean it up but it may come to that. Thanks for the video!
@@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.
Oh man I’m sorry this happened to you and the family. It’s not just the saw that was damaged obviously, but I can see why this might have been the focal point of the damage caused to you. I feel like cleaning the top is a little bit therapeutic for you as well as just an attempt to salvage something. Prayers that you heal from this wound! 🙏
Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.
Which Cerakote version do you use?
@@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.
I use rubbing compoundb on new steel to smooth it and remove stains, using a disc polish pad. For heavy stains Wet sand paper 180 or 220 wet a 8:10 nd dry with mineral spirits then 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500. Rub down with concrete rust remover . ..
The reust remover works on other parts befor sanding too.
For really bad areas use phosphoric acid, "Ospho, or Naval jelly.
The fine w&d paper removes just tiny amounts, so no distortions worth concern.
I purchased a property with some farm equipment included in the sale. Part of the equipment is a Sawstop he had barely used. My heart broke when I found that it spent the winter in an unsheltered old garage completely rusted on top. Hope I have as much luck saving it as you did. I would honestly be thrilled if it gets even close to looking this good again.
buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.
I'm in to the video about eight minutes, so please forgive me if you tried this eventually. How about using wet sandpaper for metal? Start with a four hundred grit and increase from there. It works on older model cars, but they're not made out of cast iron which is basically pot metal, so I don't know if I'm on to something, or not.
I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
I use t-9 on all my machines which are in a damp humid basement. And have not had one rust issue so far. Table saw jointer drill press etc.
I had a fire in my boat shop 6 years ago. Among the machines I lost was a cast-base 10” Delta tilty tablesaw. Now I’m starting to move into a new shop, and I wanted to set up a router table on my 12” Walker- Turner tablesaw. I began to think about what to use for the actual table, and I thought about that old saw. It had been sitting outside the whole time, and the pot metal quadrants had melted in the fire, I didn’t have much hope for it.
When I brought it into the shop though, a straight edge showed it to be un-warped, so I went after the surface with scrapers, then 3M pads. It cleaned up beautifully, actually a better surface than the old W-T saw it’s bolted to!
A fire, then 6 years in the elements, and now perfect - I don’t think your saw should be much of a problem.
Oh wow.
I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!
I protect all of my cast iron tools with Boeshield T-9. Developed by Boeing. After the petroleum distillates evaporate, it leaves behind a very thin film of wax. Nothing else I have tried compares to this stuff, in terms of rust prevention, especially the longevity of it. And It works on more than just cast iron (noisy door hinges, freshly polished brass). It’s a little pricey but IMO worth it (and it’s made in the USA)
I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.
Oh wow. That’s the worst. Glad you’re ok.
Hi 👋 WittWorks , I am so sorry to hear 👂 you got problems with water damage, back in the 1979/8 I had just moved my work shop to a farm, I was renting a old cowshed, I had had to put plastic sheeting as a roof. Space, as there were small holes in the roof where drips used to come through onto my tools and equipment., and used to suffer very badly and condensation,
The very kind farmer, purchased a very old Planer jointer from a auction sale , I believe the machine might have been outside for a long time, and they asked me was it worth getting when I said yes , they said that’s good cause it’s outside. I think they bought it more as scrap value than anything else., what is six weeks down the line, it looks like brand-new,, I was living in the UK at the time, the machine was made by a firm called Dominion, which I think was part of Watkin, which was up north, I contacted them about the table bed , told me if I could bring the tables up to there machine shop they could resurface it for me, so between landlords, son and myself, we stripped down the machine and took the tables to the place up north, where they resurfaced the beds of the tables , this cost me approximately £200 and it took them virtually a day, I’ve never seen a machine like this before they used to resurface the beds. All the tables it was huge, but after a few weeks work of repainting and doing some electrical work the jointer planer thickness, look like new,
Anyway, after explaining my problem, you might be able to find somebody that can resurface the tops of your tablesaw to bring it back, looking like new, , I have since found out that old cast iron is a lot better made than what the new stuff they use nowadays, there is a curing process for when they make cast-iron table beds, which I believe on very good stuff can take up to 6 months to a year to cure, depending on the size of it, and then the cast iron is there in machine it’s finished size and polished,
Good luck with the repairs and the renovation of your tools and machinery. I hope you can get some compensation from the insurance company. Hopefully see you back in the workshop soon., Phil from the moulin France,
I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw.
I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years.
For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench.
I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward.
All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.
I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.
I have an old Craftsman table saw that I got in pieces and had to refurbish. It was in extremely rough shape. A friend gave it to me during Covid lockdown and it was more therapeutic than necessity to rebuild it. The top was in as bad of shape as yours, and since it didn't cost me anything I used sandpaper and WD-40. I started with 100 and really got most everything done with that. I went up to 800 grit wet & dry with WD and other than the fact that these tops weren't milled that great to begin with (lots of milling marks) it came out great! For about 6 months after I had a wood block with 800 grit on it and would just block it out before waxing it. Iknow you probably wont want to be as aggressive , but it worked out just fine for me
Artificial white vinegar (acetic acid) is the same as rust removal sprays and you could use it to remove most of the rust by soaking and laying paper towels on the surfaces for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping down. It's also much cheaper when sold in larger containers for commercial kitchens (gallon or larger). Also useful for descaling glass containers or cleaning limescale from shower screens.
Similar thing happened to me on my Delta. I started sanding with 220 and worked it up to 4000 before switching to a polishing pad with polishing compound. Then finished with some carpenters wax and it was good as new
I have a waterfront home in North Carolina. Rust is a constant battle on all my tools. With an air conditioned garage condensation forms immediately when ever I open the door. Wax helps very little and leaving WD40 on the surfaces makes it worse. I now keep all tools covered with ether a custom cover or just a towel laid over. CorrosionX works best but 30 weight works well. Before using I have to degrease and wax. Hand tools have to be kept in drawers or cabinets.
If this ever happens to you ... the first thing to do is save the electronics!
Remove the motors and actuators. Open them up, rinse them in distilled water, then in a 50-50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water and dry them with a blow dryer.
Your table top can wait.
The good news is the staining won't make a hill of beans in the performance of the saw. I've got a Jet cabinet saw that was rusted to the point of pitting on the surface. I sanded the top with 220, blew the dust off, gave it a coat of wax and started using it. One of my friend's came by one day and was looking at parts for some cabinet drawers I was making and remarked that they looked like they were made by a machine. I said "They were". He then said something along the lines of "I know but I mean they are all exactly the same, like CNC'ed or something". The pitted top didn't stop me and the saw from making perfect parts.
Now, the electronics could be a different story but the top, you are good to go.
The electronics are what I’m worried about. The staining will be a reminder to always turn off my water when I leave town.
My wife visited my shop and sat her glass of water on my Sawstop. I screamed nooooo. It was to late. I still have a round stain in my table. I couldn't believe she did that.
Weeks later I had a project using pressure treated wood. I decided to put it temporarily store it on the tablesaw. Well that was dumb.
So I can feel you pain. Thanks for giving me some ideas, and I will subscribe..
Look up stumpy nubbs video on what to do about rust like this. Essentially sand /buff it clean with naptha and finish with protective layer of paste wax. It works because i was given a jet tablesaw that had a rusted top i followed the steps and it looks brand new! Love your content keep it up and hope this helps get your prized saw out of medical leave and back to use!
For anyone who is interested: citric acid works very well as a rust remover. I restore antique tools as a hobby and have made plenty completely destroyed and corroded metal look brand new. I also restored an antique cast iron skillet that I found in a field. It does need to soak for a while. 5-48 hrs, depending on the metal and the extend of the damage. I buy milliard brand, food grade acid on amazon. If anyone is curious about this method, there are plenty of videos on youtube that show it.
Witt, so so so sorry about this. Total nightmare.
I would have been stunned to see that kind of damage to an expensive shop tool. With that said, I wouldn't have been dismayed or worried that it couldn't be restored to full functioning condition. I guess I've just taken too many old and broken things and made them perfectly serviceable again. It's mostly cosmetic and wouldn't worry me a lot. I'm one who believes very strongly in form following function.
Finally some common sense. I'm not saying anybody should be happy about having their stuff rusted up, but damn, it's just metal. As long as the surfaces are flat and smooth, that's all that matters. Folks on here acting like he lost a family member. I could have that table derusted and smooth as a baby's behind in less than an hour. It happens, and it's not big deal. One time I had just gotten finished restoring the cast iron tables on my table saw and jointer. My wonderful wife was kind enough to surprise me with an ice cold drink and set it on the yet to be waxed jointer infeed table while I wasn't looking. It was a humid summer Sunday afternoon. That ring is still there. You can't feel it, or measure it, but you can see it. I consider it a battle scar or badge of honor.
Why not use a chemical method to remove the rust. Naval jelly or Ospho or even vinegar would remove the rust or convert it to a stable tightly adhered layer on the surface. You could also remove the top and have a plating shop strip the rust electrochemically in one of their cleaning tanks.
Cast iron surface appearance and precision flatness can be restored to better than new with a little elbow grease. Look up "lapping granite surface plate". You can use the wings on one another and then on the main table. It's hard to mess up and will be better than factory when you're done.
I cover everything with the tool covers. I have a cold garage and large temperature swings...no rush problems. In your case, the water would have run off.
I congratulate you on your patience. If that happened to me I would jump right to like 100 or 80 grit metal working paper and get down to bare metal. Your approach was obviously better.....you demonstrated great patience.
I have an AC failure in my shop that I am presently dealing with. I am in the deep south, near the Gulf Coast so heat and humidity is a major concern. I am so glad my table saw has an aluminum top. So far the other machines are handling it OK. I am keeping a coat of oil on them.
I feel your pain. I brought my SawStop home last December. The top didn’t survive two weeks. I had the garage door up after a rain, and it evidently dropped down on the saw. Definitely not as bad as your situation, but my beautiful new table top has a black love mark now. I ordered Carbon Method immediately after. 😊
oh wow!
Don't know if it's been suggested but the Boeshield Rust Free is a rust miracle worker.
Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.
If you can salvage the saw, I say get some kind of design applied to the surface of the table. Like covering a scar with a tattoo kind of thing. Just a thought. maybe you can resurface, do some kind of tool black coating and then re-coat it and once you wax the top with some paste wax to get the friction back down, etc....
Oh, man. So sorry this happened to you. Glad you were able to restore it as well as you did. It looks great. Nice job! Good luck on the rest of it.
I feel so bad for you but please try this product Evapo-Rust ER012. I used this in my motorcycle gas tank and it removed all the rust.
Had this happen before and Believe it or not I used 120 sandpaper( May want to wear a mask) but it worked perfect. Then I cleaned it and coated with paste wax.
That’s a bummer! I’ve used Naval Jelly to remove rust before. It works really good, and I think you can get it at Lowes.
it is like getting into an accident out of the dealership in a brand new Ferrari, but i learnt one thing, never have any emotional ties to stuff that can be bought and sold, at the end of the day it is a tool that makes you money not a one in a billion museum artifact.
very true!
Hope your insurance company comes through for you dude 🤞
still ghosting me
@@wittworks well their HQ is right down the street from you. March in there and demand to speak to the CEO 😆
Insurance companies are not in the business of paying. It’s all champagne and roses when they’re selling you your policy. I hope you have a happy ending.
I used a wet dry sandpaper with WD-40 paint thinner to clean up used car wax for final cover turned out almost good as new It was 1000 grit
I have that wood extension table in storage if you need one.
As long as the top if flat, the staining is cosmetic only doesn’t ruin the saw. Now, that wooden side board is ruined. As long as you are rebuilding that side board, it’d be a good time to add a router with a router lift. I’m sorry that your saw no longer looks new but you’ll be using it for decades and that staining just isn’t a problem as far a function goes. As far as the rice goes, you’ll want to bake that rice in the oven then let it cool covered to drive off the moisture in the rice before you try to use it as a desiccant. Since you did sand the top, you should use a good straight edge and make sure you have not caused any depressions in your tabletop. Flat is more important than staining.
Same thing happened to me, same saw and everything, never got the stain out, but I put deep gouges in it with some pocket screws, so the stains don't bother me anymore😅
THROWING THE KREG JIG AWAY RIGHT NOW
you should have put evaporust gel on it and covered in plastic wrap for 24-48 hours would have been clean as a whistle
I had excellent results with wd40, 400 grit sandpaper on the ros, and a roll of paper towels to wipe the stained liquid as I removed it. I let the wd40 sit for about 15 minutes before use. Saw top came out looking like new.
Just saw this. You should chemically neutralize the rust with a thin layer of evaporust as the second to last last coat. Let it sit for ten to thirty minutes. On the very last cleaning, use the reconditioning oil to sand to desired level (ex: 400 up to 4000). Evaporust will neutralize rust in pours to preven further pitting. Oil puts a layer of protection.
I have used machinist stones and wd40 on cast iron tables of CNC machines. This way it prevents you from "digging a hole". While it doesnt get all of the staining it gets it clean quickly and leaves a smooth finish. I also got a bit of rust on my sawstop, not the extent of yours but that is what I used.
Harbor freight has a surface conditioning tool that would bring your surface back to new. It would also help to grab a gallon of evaporust while youre there. Lay old towels on the saw top, soak them with evaporust and keep it wet for atleast 24 hours. Between those two, you'll be good as new.
Lucky it took me over 9 min to figure out how to get to the comments on my phone (I usually watch RUclips on my desktop or laptop) so as much as I can’t wait to see the next video I will add you to
My list of people that I will attempt to send some good vibes as a thank you for sharing your creativity and wit.
And HOLY WOW THATS AMAZING!!!!
So sorry this happened to you. I just reorganized my shop a couple weeks ago to avoid water pipes in my house. Had a slow drip from a pipe that ran just to the side of my cnc machine, if it was 6 inches to the left of where it lives would have been destroyed. Luckily I’m in an unfinished basement so I can see where everything runs.
My mom had a water leak while not home, and it traveled through furnace ducts to find its way to the basement. Surprisingly, the leak was over a garage which didn't have a basement under it, but the ducts went through the garage to the ceiling of the basement, which is how the basement got water damage. Three floors were damaged. $60,000 of damage, and 3 roll-off dumpsters.
I live in a ranch, and the only water hazard is a water heater in the garage, and it has a pan piped outside if it doesn't leak with a spray outside the pan. But, if a storm damaged my roof, that could also cause damage until I could get a blue tarp up.
First, I am so sorry to see this and my heart breaks for you.
My husband has wanted a sawstop for a while now and I have to say, why does a $6,000 piece of equipment rust only after a couple of days of water? That shows poor workmanship on the manufacturer of sawstop. I live in a very high humidity environment that would cause this very scenario just from the humidity. I know we, as the owners, can add products to prevent rusting but if the product was made if steel (or some sort of rust proof material) instead of iron it would make the high price tag understandable.
You said you were surprised that in only a couple days this happened. I milled up some walnut (which I thought was dry) and set a couple pieces on my saw over night and came back to rust (not quite as bad as you had) that took hours to get off. Happens surprisingly fast.
Oh wow.
I may not be telling you anything "new", but if you haven't been able to get with your insurance about repairing/replacing your tools. You need to be very adamant that these are not business related tools otherwise they may just flat out deny your claim (in regards to the tools) or only pay partial value. I learned this the hard way when my truck was broken into in my driveway, I had state farm on both my truck and home owners insurance, the truck insurance referred me back to my homeowners policy since it happened in my driveway. I sent them a list of all the tools stolen from my truck and they asked if these tools were used for work, me being honest said yes. They then said my policy would only cover up to $1500 since the stolen items were business related, even after I explained that they were my personal tools that I used at my W2 job. I hope your insurance will do you right on this, tho a video showing you "restoring" the tools may not help since they actively try to get out of paying.
It’s my hobby. Still waiting for them to call back. 🤦♂️
I always keep my table saw and jointer covered with clear vinyl covers to keep the tops from rusting in the Hawaii salt air.
That's a good idea!
Your poor Festool sander 😂
Yeah man! It was orange when all said and done.
Evapo Rust is the best stuff I've used, leaves the metal good, then very light on the Ballistol oil (a little goes a very long way) and steel is beautiful and no more rust ... too late? Best ever for restoring old rusty tools anyhow.
I’ve had this happen. I used a wide chisel for the proud spots and steel wool to make it shine. My saw, however, is far from new.
Wow, id be devastated if my saw got ruined & that is only 500 quid. It aint just the monetary value. Says alot about your character when if i remember correctly you had your 1st set of tools robbed. Instead of feeling like a jinx you got stuck in. Insurance or not it still wounds and leaves a scar. Hang in there fella.
Sand paper or emery paper , I've had that problem when I left my table saw down in my damp basement and it got very surface rusted and the sand paper on an orbital sander worked perfect, just start out with 120 and work your way up