Links to parts under video - See the upcoming video describing Heat Sequencers AKA Time Delay Fan Controls. I will explain them, the run time for cool and heat cycling. How to calculate a relay or other parts options.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. You saved me a lot of time and money. It's nice that you're so knowledgeable and can explain things so even a novice can understand! Thanks again!
Hi John, my name is Dan and Im on my wife computer. We have a 1991 motor home and the heater just started blowing cold, fan running, no heat. I saw your video ( Great video, obviously you know what you're talking about) so I went to the RV store and sure enough -$65 for the dinosaur relay, so I thought I would order the one you suggested. The links below didn't work so I started shopping around. What I got was a KSD301C C016. / H1 25. C 40 90/. H 30 110 C 1 30.($20 delivered in 4 days) When I hooked it up, I had the bottom connections 180 out. It would start the fan, start gas and igniter, run 5 seconds and turn off. So I watched your video again, hooked it up correctly and it wouldn't start. I checked voltages ( ground, power and thermostat were ON), tapped on the relay and it kicked on and did the same as before. Fan on, Ignites, run 5 seconds and turn off. Now I'm not sure if : 1) this part is too much different than the one you suggested ; 2) It is a defective part?, or 3) some other component has failed since I hooked it up backwards first. I'm not sure what to do now sooo, looking for your expertise for some guidance. Can you help?? Thanks, Dan Heddon.
Hello, Dan, (on my wife's computer again.) I have solved my problem. This different part# does work (KSD 301C C016/ H1 25 C 40 90/ H 30 110 C 1 30). The difference is I needed to switch the wires from the middle section to the upper section of the relay. Use the same wiring configuration just move the connections up. I don't know if I damaged the mid section but it didn't work as expected and I don't have a wiring diagram for this component. I did discover the heater is connected thru the battery and not the breakers, I was thinking I had killed power by setting breakers to OFF. Not true. Good luck Guys !
This is VERY helpful, I use to do HVAC in the early 2000's but switch jobs in '07 due to the economy, but I'm seriously considering getting back into it in the RV sector ! My wife & I have been living in SW Florida for 3yrs now(originally from Chicago) & she works for Camping World in Ft Myers, so that's why I'm considering getting back to this work! Thanks for sharing this video, I just subbed to your channel, you ROCK my friend, stay safe & God Bless!!!
I have a 1980 camper that has a Coleman presidential furnace, and I think it might be the electronic igniter in it that is having trouble. The thing to note here is, the problem only happens during colder days/nights when the furnace needs to run a long cycle. Please let me know what you think. The story behind this conundrum during colder days/nights is... If I leave the thermostat low (usually 50-55 f range), it will run, light flame and heat for about 10 minutes until thermostat temp setting is reached, shut off flame, and then shuts down after cool down cycle is complete, and all is ok, until.. If I turn the thermostat up to 60 f or more, which makes the furnace run longer, the furnace will run, light flame and heat until the internal temp sensor kills the flame, and after the sensor resets, the flame does not relight, but if I turn the thermostat down again until the blower stops, and then turn the thermostat back up/on, the furnace will then run and start the flame again until the same problem repeats again.
I am having the same problem with my Duo Therm heater and wondering if you have gotten yours fixed. If so, what fixed it? Thanks in advance for your feedback. You can send a reply to bgooden
Really appreciate this. Currently having an issue with the gas valve that feeds our suburban rv furnace. If you have dealt with diagnosising / replacing the gas valve, would be great to see a video on that.
If your gas valve is partially opening, check power to it. It should be of full line voltage ( InRe 12.8 volts like the battery) and if it is not, you need to trace back till you find where the voltage drop is. They are designed to start closing at under 10.5 volts. So if your leaf switch in the blower is carboned up, you get low volts to the gas valve. Other options is pull its pipe, look in to see if its filter on the gas inlet is plugged up.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 - our starts off running ok, the flame is a bit yellow in my opinion, but after running 5-10 minutes, it start producing a sound like a "blow torch". When i called Suburban, they just said, stop using it and it sounds like gas valve issue, take it to a dealer. Unfortunatedly, the dealer told us to check back in January and that was in November. I typically fix stuff myself, but its been challenging getting good info on this suburban forced air non-ducted 16k btu furnance.
Sounds more like you have Wasp nest or some blockage in the intake air part. Have you had it apart? Whats its year and model number, and if its a front vented 16k this can also be a result of a weak motor. I might have 1 or 2 of those on a shelf that are serviced and restored.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 - think its a 2017 Suburban Model se-20seq with orific size 3/64". I have looked into the exhaust opening on the outside and into the burner chamber window from the inside bit didnt see any insect nest, dirt or debri.
2017? Wow, and to fail that fast. No wonder I have started to install the Diesel units ( ebay.to/2FymPHn ) in the last 20+ RV's looking for more effective heating. You just run the 1" exhaust up the side wall outside sorta snug to the wall, 6" above the roof. Even looks cool. They are about the size of a 16,000 to 22k btu but put out 21,000 btu and cost 30% less to run. But a 2017 Suburban Atwood failing??? Geez
My suburban is blowing and trying to ignite and fails to ignite the fan just keeps blowing and blowing and once in awhile it will click try to ignite again only once in awhile actually ignites. I was thinking it was this module that you are explaining in this video. I rewired it so all connections are clean since it’s over 30 years old and still same problem. Not sure if maybe it’s a propane line issue but stove works fine. Any advice?
Brother i sure could use a lil help , im pretty handy guy , but this thing has kicked my butt , was working fine ( untill it stopped , grr ) was when id turn tstat on id hear a click and fan would start , then wouldnt fire untill a few restarts , now no click , no fan , nothing. Replaced the fan / run delay , still nothing , i can cross over the fan wires and fan will come on , but still wont fire , please help me ! Lol
Sounds like a weak switch, limit, cool down switch or run delay relay allowing too much voltage drop to keep gas valve open. Carboned up switches do that behavior. Check battery voltage on gas valve terminals when you run it, and as it is acting up. Should be 11.5+ volts.
I have a question. I have a demotic ac on the roof and a suburban sq42f furnace accessed from outside. It’s a Bighorn 5th wheel. The thermostat is in the front bedroom that controls the front AC and the furnace. I had a new roof put on my rig. Got it back and furnace doesn’t work AC does. My understanding is that 12v from the furnace goes to the board in the AC unit on the roof and has a return wire that brings back the 12v to the board at the furnace. I get the 12v at the AC unit but there is no longer a wire going back to the furnace bringing the 12v to the furnace board to start the blower running. Here’s my question. I know the 2 blue wires at the furnace can be connected, with a 12v supply, to bench test the furnace. Can I put another 12v thermostat in my rig and take 12v power from the 12v being fed to the roof and take it to the new thermostat I put in my rig and then send the 12v back to the wire feeds the connection to start the blower on the furnace? I’m just trying to bypass the AC unit so I can run the furnace from another thermostat. I think that’s right? If so what thermostat should I get? Sorry this was so long. Help!
'Ok let me do this real quick' *more great tips and tricks ...... "ok I'm going to put this screw in now " *teaches and rambles more. "Let's wrap this up" *keeps instructing and dropping knowledge
ANY ADVICE on an ATwood 7916-II. Won't turn on at all. Replaced the Fan Sequencer, getting 13V to it but nothing out the other end to my fan. I'm assuming nothing else will work unless the fan is running and of course no voltage to the board as well. Thank you for your support to all us amateurs.
Did you verify the thermostat is OK? You can force the blower power on by direct connecting the 2 leads to the thermostat. They will be positive voltage, one live, the other switch sending. The plug may have a issue to consider also, be sure if your testing the motor you listen careful for a very light wine of electricity in the brushes, spin the blower some to see if that is present. Let me know your results.
That was a great video on replacement of the thermocoupler on the coleman stove but you mentioned you were going to do a video on rebuilding the snap action gas valve did you ever do one and where can I find it. My furnace is having a low gas flame problem.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 can you post the link I can't find it. Thank you. Pilot light works fine but getting really low burner flame any ideas on where to start troubleshooting would be great.
Ordered the same one finished hooking it up when I turn furnace on & wait for blower to start, once the relay kicks in the batterie power drops enough that it kills the lights!! & until relay open's, lights are bright once again. Seems like the 24v relay I received draws too much amperage!. 😞
Oh Boy talkin about learning from my mistakes !! I had mixed up my wires, hence why the lights went out when relay kicked in. All is well now! Only issue now is the 2 minute time delay before fan kicks in. Other than this, at least it works !!
Yes my big hands getting away in a lot of videos so sometimes people will get the wires backwards but I'm glad you figured it out. Sure beats the hell out of giving the furnace manufacturers 50 to 100 bucks for these things.
With some modification yes, but that totally depends on the unit, the gas valve used and the model of the unit. I have converted some of the older models to NG but those kits are no longer available.
Sooo, what can I expect to happen if I get one of these wires in the wrong slot? Also, does it matter which side ? In other words if I flip it 180 will it matter as far as hooking it up...like power on one side versus the other? Doing mine tomorrow as the parts should be here this afternoon..... Hope I hear from you...if not say a prayer for me and cross your fingers ...LOL 🤞⚡⚡🔥😢🤕
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hey John, that was fast. The parts just came also. How do I tell which side is ground? I mean, I will know which comes from power etc... but no mark or label for which side is for ground or power... BTW, wow, fast reply...you sir, are awesome. Thanks
Hey John, gotta sec...? I replaced all of the switches etc... I figured if they weren't bad, being 20+ yo, I replace it anyway to be sure. Still no heat. I pulled the whole unit and checked the electrode placement and the burner condition and all looks good. Also cleaned it up a bit but no debris or anything...it looks real clean and in good order. I still have ...blower on, click with gas smell, tick tick and either a little whoosh and a shot of heat out the exhaust or tick tick and nothing. I feel like I am left with the board being bad...maybe?? Or not enough gas flow (calls for 10"). I run the stove (3 brnr) one full then the next etc..not noticeable drop in flame. I don't have a gauge to see what inches I have. Any thoughts on this?? Kinda stuck.... Thanks, Andrew
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ,yeah...kinda bummed. I took the unit out of the rv and opened the chamber, even took the orifice out. It looks like this thing has been used maybe a dozen times. It was a south Florida owned motorhome. I put it back in for the time being. I'm guessing I need to buy a flow gauge and see how many inches there are. Kinda stumped. The igniter looked solid and about the right distance away. There isn't a strong smell of gas but can definitely smell that smell and hear the solenoid click as well as the tik tik happening. Seems the first time it happens there is the whoosh of ignition and after that there is no more whooshes until it shuts down and restarts again. I did just download the service manual and that will be my Sunday reading.LOL Thanks for checking in with me. This is as frustrating as trying to find an idle stumble in the hot rod. Grrrr HA
You show a different sequencer when you first start this video then when you have it installed it's another sequence what is that shit why did you use a different one I'm trying to put one in that's like the first one you showed and then you turn around and install a different one
Besides being a ass when you post, you failed to see there are optional furnace models, they were shown, and due to space and furnace model the single switch relay was being installed. 99% who comment are happy to see that not only one option exist, they followed the link and seen one that can work on the over 90 versions of RV furnaces, so if they have a 12 volt/120 volt furnace or a heat cool detent model, or a simple hydroflame, they found their solution.
Links to parts under video - See the upcoming video describing Heat Sequencers AKA Time Delay Fan Controls. I will explain them, the run time for cool and heat cycling. How to calculate a relay or other parts options.
another timely & helpful video...thanks! love saving a few bucks wherever I can.
Love that your showing people how to fix these units and informing them that parts don’t always have to come from a RV parts place.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. You saved me a lot of time and money. It's nice that you're so knowledgeable and can explain things so even a novice can understand! Thanks again!
Glad it helped! If you need anything else to do it yourself, ask.
This was a great video showing a "How To" on that Furnace, John. Thanks for teaching us something NEW👍🏼
Great video fantastic graphic demonstration thank's
Hi John, my name is Dan and Im on my wife computer. We have a 1991 motor home and the heater just started blowing cold, fan running, no heat.
I saw your video ( Great video, obviously you know what you're talking about) so I went to the RV store and sure enough -$65 for the dinosaur relay, so I thought I would order the one you suggested. The links below didn't work so I started shopping around.
What I got was a KSD301C C016. / H1 25. C 40 90/. H 30 110 C 1 30.($20 delivered in 4 days)
When I hooked it up, I had the bottom connections 180 out. It would start the fan, start gas and igniter, run 5 seconds and turn off. So I watched your video again, hooked it up correctly and it wouldn't start. I checked voltages ( ground, power and thermostat were ON), tapped on the relay and it kicked on and did the same as before. Fan on, Ignites, run 5 seconds and turn off.
Now I'm not sure if : 1) this part is too much different than the one you suggested ; 2) It is a defective part?, or 3) some other component has failed since I hooked it up backwards first.
I'm not sure what to do now sooo, looking for your expertise for some guidance. Can you help??
Thanks, Dan Heddon.
Hello, Dan, (on my wife's computer again.) I have solved my problem.
This different part# does work (KSD 301C C016/ H1 25 C 40 90/ H 30 110 C 1 30). The difference is I needed to switch the wires from the middle section to the upper section of the relay. Use the same wiring configuration just move the connections up. I don't know if I damaged the mid section but it didn't work as expected and I don't have a wiring diagram for this component. I did discover the heater is connected thru the battery and not the breakers, I was thinking I had killed power by setting breakers to OFF. Not true. Good luck Guys !
This is VERY helpful, I use to do HVAC in the early 2000's but switch jobs in '07 due to the economy, but I'm seriously considering getting back into it in the RV sector ! My wife & I have been living in SW Florida for 3yrs now(originally from Chicago) & she works for Camping World in Ft Myers, so that's why I'm considering getting back to this work! Thanks for sharing this video, I just subbed to your channel, you ROCK my friend, stay safe & God Bless!!!
Appreciate the wire/power routing description!
Thank you...... got my heat back on the cheap!
You put out some great videos John.
Wow, haven't seen these in years until the other day.
I have a 1980 camper that has a Coleman presidential furnace, and I think it might be the electronic igniter in it that is having trouble. The thing to note here is, the problem only happens during colder days/nights when the furnace needs to run a long cycle. Please let me know what you think. The story behind this conundrum during colder days/nights is... If I leave the thermostat low (usually 50-55 f range), it will run, light flame and heat for about 10 minutes until thermostat temp setting is reached, shut off flame, and then shuts down after cool down cycle is complete, and all is ok, until.. If I turn the thermostat up to 60 f or more, which makes the furnace run longer, the furnace will run, light flame and heat until the internal temp sensor kills the flame, and after the sensor resets, the flame does not relight, but if I turn the thermostat down again until the blower stops, and then turn the thermostat back up/on, the furnace will then run and start the flame again until the same problem repeats again.
I am having the same problem with my Duo Therm heater and wondering if you have gotten yours fixed. If so, what fixed it? Thanks in advance for your feedback. You can send a reply to bgooden
Please reply to bgoooden_67212@yahoo.com.
Really appreciate this. Currently having an issue with the gas valve that feeds our suburban rv furnace. If you have dealt with diagnosising / replacing the gas valve, would be great to see a video on that.
If your gas valve is partially opening, check power to it. It should be of full line voltage ( InRe 12.8 volts like the battery) and if it is not, you need to trace back till you find where the voltage drop is. They are designed to start closing at under 10.5 volts. So if your leaf switch in the blower is carboned up, you get low volts to the gas valve. Other options is pull its pipe, look in to see if its filter on the gas inlet is plugged up.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 - our starts off running ok, the flame is a bit yellow in my opinion, but after running 5-10 minutes, it start producing a sound like a "blow torch". When i called Suburban, they just said, stop using it and it sounds like gas valve issue, take it to a dealer. Unfortunatedly, the dealer told us to check back in January and that was in November. I typically fix stuff myself, but its been challenging getting good info on this suburban forced air non-ducted 16k btu furnance.
Sounds more like you have Wasp nest or some blockage in the intake air part. Have you had it apart? Whats its year and model number, and if its a front vented 16k this can also be a result of a weak motor. I might have 1 or 2 of those on a shelf that are serviced and restored.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 - think its a 2017 Suburban Model se-20seq with orific size 3/64". I have looked into the exhaust opening on the outside and into the burner chamber window from the inside bit didnt see any insect nest, dirt or debri.
2017? Wow, and to fail that fast. No wonder I have started to install the Diesel units ( ebay.to/2FymPHn ) in the last 20+ RV's looking for more effective heating. You just run the 1" exhaust up the side wall outside sorta snug to the wall, 6" above the roof. Even looks cool. They are about the size of a 16,000 to 22k btu but put out 21,000 btu and cost 30% less to run. But a 2017 Suburban Atwood failing??? Geez
My suburban is blowing and trying to ignite and fails to ignite the fan just keeps blowing and blowing and once in awhile it will click try to ignite again only once in awhile actually ignites. I was thinking it was this module that you are explaining in this video. I rewired it so all connections are clean since it’s over 30 years old and still same problem. Not sure if maybe it’s a propane line issue but stove works fine. Any advice?
Good Morning. Does the SW work on trailers made on and after 2014. Thank you. Jack
Brother i sure could use a lil help , im pretty handy guy , but this thing has kicked my butt , was working fine ( untill it stopped , grr ) was when id turn tstat on id hear a click and fan would start , then wouldnt fire untill a few restarts , now no click , no fan , nothing. Replaced the fan / run delay , still nothing , i can cross over the fan wires and fan will come on , but still wont fire , please help me ! Lol
I have a 1989 sunlite truck bed camper furnace that once it cycles once, the pilot fades out and the blower will keep running with no heat
Sounds like a weak switch, limit, cool down switch or run delay relay allowing too much voltage drop to keep gas valve open. Carboned up switches do that behavior. Check battery voltage on gas valve terminals when you run it, and as it is acting up. Should be 11.5+ volts.
I have a question. I have a demotic ac on the roof and a suburban sq42f furnace accessed from outside. It’s a Bighorn 5th wheel. The thermostat is in the front bedroom that controls the front AC and the furnace. I had a new roof put on my rig. Got it back and furnace doesn’t work AC does. My understanding is that 12v from the furnace goes to the board in the AC unit on the roof and has a return wire that brings back the 12v to the board at the furnace. I get the 12v at the AC unit but there is no longer a wire going back to the furnace bringing the 12v to the furnace board to start the blower running. Here’s my question. I know the 2 blue wires at the furnace can be connected, with a 12v supply, to bench test the furnace. Can I put another 12v thermostat in my rig and take 12v power from the 12v being fed to the roof and take it to the new thermostat I put in my rig and then send the 12v back to the wire feeds the connection to start the blower on the furnace? I’m just trying to bypass the AC unit so I can run the furnace from another thermostat. I think that’s right? If so what thermostat should I get? Sorry this was so long. Help!
'Ok let me do this real quick' *more great tips and tricks ...... "ok I'm going to put this screw in now " *teaches and rambles more. "Let's wrap this up" *keeps instructing and dropping knowledge
🐵
Also I broke my pilot tube. Any ideas on where to get one sir? Manufacturers quit making them since they're so old...
Worth a try, Also works on most of the older heaters. amzn.to/3NBitBa
ANY ADVICE on an ATwood 7916-II. Won't turn on at all. Replaced the Fan Sequencer, getting 13V to it but nothing out the other end to my fan. I'm assuming nothing else will work unless the fan is running and of course no voltage to the board as well. Thank you for your support to all us amateurs.
Did you verify the thermostat is OK? You can force the blower power on by direct connecting the 2 leads to the thermostat. They will be positive voltage, one live, the other switch sending. The plug may have a issue to consider also, be sure if your testing the motor you listen careful for a very light wine of electricity in the brushes, spin the blower some to see if that is present. Let me know your results.
After watching and rewatching your various videos, found out my thermostat was bad. Jumpered the two thermostat wires together and it fired up. :)
Do you still have working links for this part? None of the links are working and i am searching for one.
Thanks, I updated to cheaper matching model. Run delay Heat Sequencer amzn.to/3ELvZin
That was a great video on replacement of the thermocoupler on the coleman stove but you mentioned you were going to do a video on rebuilding the snap action gas valve did you ever do one and where can I find it. My furnace is having a low gas flame problem.
On one of my heater videos I put a link to the complete valve, it's cheaper than the $110 rebuild kit.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 can you post the link I can't find it. Thank you. Pilot light works fine but getting really low burner flame any ideas on where to start troubleshooting would be great.
I would be happy to pay for the rebuild kit as I have been looking everywhere and cannot find much information on that Coleman gas valve.
Good idea.
Ordered the same one finished hooking it up when I turn furnace on & wait for blower to start, once the relay kicks in the batterie power drops enough that it kills the lights!! & until relay open's, lights are bright once again. Seems like the 24v relay I received draws too much amperage!. 😞
Oh Boy talkin about learning from my mistakes !! I had mixed up my wires, hence why the lights went out when relay kicked in. All is well now! Only issue now is the 2 minute time delay before fan kicks in. Other than this, at least it works !!
Yes my big hands getting away in a lot of videos so sometimes people will get the wires backwards but I'm glad you figured it out. Sure beats the hell out of giving the furnace manufacturers 50 to 100 bucks for these things.
Can you change it to natural gas
With some modification yes, but that totally depends on the unit, the gas valve used and the model of the unit. I have converted some of the older models to NG but those kits are no longer available.
What causes my heater to keep heating. I have to turn off propane to shut down the heater.
Delay relay hung up in the on position is the common item to look at. Thermostat relay is second.
Confusing with continuing explanation
i need a professional to look at my old duo therm heater I'm in Iowa
You can send me pics and info to my email for a review. olympicpowercontrols@yahoo.com
Sooo, what can I expect to happen if I get one of these wires in the wrong slot?
Also, does it matter which side ?
In other words if I flip it 180 will it matter as far as hooking it up...like power on one side versus the other?
Doing mine tomorrow as the parts should be here this afternoon.....
Hope I hear from you...if not say a prayer for me and cross your fingers ...LOL
🤞⚡⚡🔥😢🤕
The two top wires won't matter, it's a switch. The two bottom wires will matter one has to go to ground and the other one comes in from thermostat.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hey John, that was fast. The parts just came also.
How do I tell which side is ground?
I mean, I will know which comes from power etc... but no mark or label for which side is for ground or power...
BTW, wow, fast reply...you sir, are awesome. Thanks
Hey John, gotta sec...?
I replaced all of the switches etc... I figured if they weren't bad, being 20+ yo, I replace it anyway to be sure.
Still no heat. I pulled the whole unit and checked the electrode placement and the burner condition and all looks good. Also cleaned it up a bit but no debris or anything...it looks real clean and in good order.
I still have ...blower on, click with gas smell, tick tick and either a little whoosh and a shot of heat out the exhaust or tick tick and nothing.
I feel like I am left with the board being bad...maybe??
Or not enough gas flow (calls for 10").
I run the stove (3 brnr) one full then the next etc..not noticeable drop in flame.
I don't have a gauge to see what inches I have.
Any thoughts on this??
Kinda stuck....
Thanks,
Andrew
Are you sure the intake and exhaust are clean of any obstruction? Sounds like a poor combustion air supply. Wasp and some spiders can cause that.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ,yeah...kinda bummed. I took the unit out of the rv and opened the chamber, even took the orifice out. It looks like this thing has been used maybe a dozen times. It was a south Florida owned motorhome.
I put it back in for the time being.
I'm guessing I need to buy a flow gauge and see how many inches there are.
Kinda stumped.
The igniter looked solid and about the right distance away.
There isn't a strong smell of gas but can definitely smell that smell and hear the solenoid click as well as the tik tik happening.
Seems the first time it happens there is the whoosh of ignition and after that there is no more whooshes until it shuts down and restarts again.
I did just download the service manual and that will be my Sunday reading.LOL
Thanks for checking in with me. This is as frustrating as trying to find an idle stumble in the hot rod. Grrrr
HA
You show a different sequencer when you first start this video then when you have it installed it's another sequence what is that shit why did you use a different one I'm trying to put one in that's like the first one you showed and then you turn around and install a different one
Besides being a ass when you post, you failed to see there are optional furnace models, they were shown, and due to space and furnace model the single switch relay was being installed. 99% who comment are happy to see that not only one option exist, they followed the link and seen one that can work on the over 90 versions of RV furnaces, so if they have a 12 volt/120 volt furnace or a heat cool detent model, or a simple hydroflame, they found their solution.
Are you the Twin Falls "Idaho Hillbilly"???
On most days