Excellent.. a million thx for your time & explanation. These screws r such a hassle because they are aluminum (nonferrous - won't stick to a magnetic screwdriver tip). Great hack 👍 Full time, 2003 Bounder liver here. FYI, if you're in a cold area in winter, use haybales around the base of your coach (and Styrofoam boards around those awkward areas). I set 4 solid leveling pillars in place, raise rv with onboard jacks, place all my haybales under rv edges, then withdraw jacks (dropping coach down onto bales). Getting those leveling pillars the right height is crucial for me, because when I withdraw my onboard jacks,, they have a full retreat motion (there is no slowly lowering them). I never wanted to crack any plastics around the lower edges of my coach... u gotta be careful doing this, at least I do with the way my jacks operate.
Wow great information! Thanks for making such a useful video. I'll be checking out the one you mentioned about the thermostat. I may have to do that myself as mine is leaving things awful cold.
Great video that sail switch is hard to find. I have the same one you have. I have power at all, checked breakers all good. I'm gonna have to check all the things you have mentioned and see what's wrong. Thanks!
I learn mostly from tearing something apart and figuring it out myself. Some (very little) I use the University of RUclips and some I download the tech manuals.
Great video. Im trying to find the video where you installed the thermostat for your furnace. Can you tell me which one it is. I have looked through your Playlist and didn't see thst video. Thanks so much.
I would like to ask question Atwood heater won't come on, replace the board no light or blower won't come on do think the sail switch is the problem or what could it be any help would highly appreciate, thank you
After going through all of that effort to remove the shroud would it have been a good idea to also replace the inexpensive limit switch at the same time? Both switches are the same age and I don’t want to be without heat in a couple of months or have to go through all of that work again. Your thoughts?
I would drill holes in the bottom of the battery cases,to let the water out, I lurned the hard way, at 7 below 0 I had ice battery's, ruined my new batteries, after drilling, no more problems, water gets in then drains right out.
To make yours Philip screwdriver static magnetic take a battery two wires positive and negative put it on the screwdriver and it automatically your Phillips screwdriver will be magnetic
Mine lights, runs for a couple seconds and then the burner shuts off? Starts fine, but shuts off after a couple seconds? Could this be the sail switch?
I didn't see lights on circuit board gonna put new sail switch on but have another issue maybe you can help before it just ran cold air the heater would kick on when it wanted to and not shut off is that my thermostat or something else..maybe sail switch was getting stuck unsure
my heater works fine except Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 45 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off between and when I put it up higher the pilot light turns off and on more frequently. Any ideas?
First, remove your control board, take it to an RV parts shop to bench test it. If it is ok, then it would either be that Sail Switch or the Limit Switch. I'm guessing it's the sail switch. Also be sure your propane is full and turned on. Hope this helps.
I would drill holes in the bottom of the battery cases,to let the water out, I lurned the hard way, at 7 below 0 I had ice battery's, ruined my new batteries, after drilling, no more problems, water gets in then drains right out.
Best Rv video I have ever seen! You are a legend
Nice.
Maybe the best Atwood RV Furnace troubleshot video on the Internet.
Gosh, Thankyou.
Thanks for your video! You explained how the system works better than anyone I’ve seen on RUclips! Now hopefully I can get my furnace running.
You're welcome!
DEFINITELY GREAT ADVICE , AND VERY WELL EXPLAINED..... THANK YOU!
You're very welcome!
Excellent.. a million thx for your time & explanation. These screws r such a hassle because they are aluminum (nonferrous - won't stick to a magnetic screwdriver tip). Great hack 👍 Full time, 2003 Bounder liver here. FYI, if you're in a cold area in winter, use haybales around the base of your coach (and Styrofoam boards around those awkward areas). I set 4 solid leveling pillars in place, raise rv with onboard jacks, place all my haybales under rv edges, then withdraw jacks (dropping coach down onto bales). Getting those leveling pillars the right height is crucial for me, because when I withdraw my onboard jacks,, they have a full retreat motion (there is no slowly lowering them). I never wanted to crack any plastics around the lower edges of my coach... u gotta be careful doing this, at least I do with the way my jacks operate.
Nice.
Love watching you work
I appreciate that!
Wow great information! Thanks for making such a useful video. I'll be checking out the one you mentioned about the thermostat. I may have to do that myself as mine is leaving things awful cold.
I'm getting ready to change out the core on this furnace. Stay tuned.
Thanks for the great instructions .
Glad it was helpful!
Your RV is in GREAT shape ! Watching you from The Ole Church 5 Acre Homestead 🇨🇦🇨🇦‼️
Thank you.
Another great video.
Thanks again!
Great video that sail switch is hard to find.
I have the same one you have. I have power at all, checked breakers all good.
I'm gonna have to check all the things you have mentioned and see what's wrong.
Thanks!
Cool, thanks
I keep speaker magnets around to put driver bits on. Did magnetizes them so the screws don't fall off. Save your tape.
Your on TV! Keep up the good content
Thanks! Will do!
Elizabeth says, Lands sake! Where did you learn all this?! Great video, Jerry!!!
I learn mostly from tearing something apart and figuring it out myself. Some (very little) I use the University of RUclips and some I download the tech manuals.
Great video. Im trying to find the video where you installed the thermostat for your furnace. Can you tell me which one it is. I have looked through your Playlist and didn't see thst video. Thanks so much.
Here you go. ruclips.net/video/Ns-SywchjfE/видео.html
I would like to ask question Atwood heater won't come on, replace the board no light or blower won't come on do think the sail switch is the problem or what could it be any help would highly appreciate, thank you
Yes, check your sail switch.
After going through all of that effort to remove the shroud would it have been a good idea to also replace the inexpensive limit switch at the same time? Both switches are the same age and I don’t want to be without heat in a couple of months or have to go through all of that work again. Your thoughts?
Go for it.
I would drill holes in the bottom of the battery cases,to let the water out, I lurned the hard way, at 7 below 0 I had ice battery's, ruined my new batteries, after drilling, no more problems, water gets in then drains right out.
Thanks.
To make yours Philip screwdriver static magnetic take a battery two wires positive and negative put it on the screwdriver and it automatically your Phillips screwdriver will be magnetic
Thank you for the tip
Mine lights, runs for a couple seconds and then the burner shuts off? Starts fine, but shuts off after a couple seconds? Could this be the sail switch?
Could very well be.
I didn't see lights on circuit board gonna put new sail switch on but have another issue maybe you can help before it just ran cold air the heater would kick on when it wanted to and not shut off is that my thermostat or something else..maybe sail switch was getting stuck unsure
Check fuses.
Hello hey great video ,hey for the atwood 8535-iv-dclp circuit board what is the model number for that ??
Let me check
why does the switch with the button keep kicking out, mine won't stay in
Could be a short somewhere.
my heater works fine except Furnace ran all the way from 51ﾟ to 66° and then pilot light shut off and then came back on about 45 seconds later and then shut off after reaching 68 degrees what the thermostat was set for. At night the thermostat is at 59 and goes down to about 57 and comes back on all night long and no problem at all never shuts the pilot light off between and when I put it up higher the pilot light turns off and on more frequently. Any ideas?
When the furnace gets hot, the heat sensor will activate and shut the pilot off. Might want to check that.
thank you and are you talking about the high limit switch?
Yes I am.
That is a sail switch
My fan runs , ignitor does not lite for heat? What can I do ?
First, remove your control board, take it to an RV parts shop to bench test it. If it is ok, then it would either be that Sail Switch or the Limit Switch. I'm guessing it's the sail switch. Also be sure your propane is full and turned on. Hope this helps.
My furnace is pushing exhaust into my camper causing the propane detector to go off. Can’t be in there without getting a headache.
This should help you out with that. ruclips.net/video/dXwXQovlnuQ/видео.html
I would drill holes in the bottom of the battery cases,to let the water out, I lurned the hard way, at 7 below 0 I had ice battery's, ruined my new batteries, after drilling, no more problems, water gets in then drains right out.
Nice hack.