Nice vid. I just got a bit confused when you talked about anti clockwise. But then i see that ju bend the impellerblades so they get the right angle. When i change impeller i just rotate the propeller so the driveshaft rotates clockwise! seen from above, and push the housing down at the same time. Just to clearify that the impellerblades shall bend as they do when the axel rotates clockvise seen from the engine naturly. Thanks for great vid :)
Hi - nice video. I have a pair of E-Tec 200HOs that are both showing signs of water penetration. I’m not sure I want to attempt this myself. What kind of torch is that? Did all the paint burn off when you heated it?
hello my friend. My Evinrude etech 30 hp engine is leaking oil from the tail joints. The smoke is not coming out completely from the exhaust, I think the engine is choking and not working properly. Why does this?.. What should I do?..Thank you..
My dear friend, the exhaust muffler of the 30 hp evinrude eteceh engine was shattered in the middle. Will it cause any harm? Will the engine start @@abakerslife
Hi Keith, it's got 340 hrs on it. I bought it with 40 hrs. Interesting to learn why the injector failed...I had heard 'rumours' about there being bad batches of injectors but assumed it was an urban myth or something. I am not looking forward to having to replace the other two as well!
@@abakerslife Thanks for that. Mine's got over 380 hours so it's probably worth me pulling the propeller shaft tube out as well, to renew that seal. Looks like the anode that sits there is a bit eroded in any case, and that needs changing too.
@@keithscott9774 My seals were damaged by braided fishing line getting wrapped around the prop. I could see that they had been replaced before. I think it's inevitable that those seals will get periodically damaged so I expect to be replacing them routinely. If your oil is clean then I personally would wait till you notice a problem before replacing them as you might end up doing it regularly. The anode is dead easy to change. What sort of boat have you got it on?
@@abakerslife Swiftcraft Seagull but it looks like it's been modified a bit. The transom is a plain flat "wall" and it's had an aluminium pod that puts the engine about 500mm back from the transom. I regret getting a half cab boat because of the standing room it takes away from you. Would have been better to get a fully open boat with all controls further forward, and either make a head head cab like you did, or get a canvas canopy made. I love the Etec engine but I live in fear of it because of parts costs. The EMM is a delicate item and if you don't take all sorts of precautions to prevent it dying, that will be another 4 figure sum to cough up. It seems to have hardly any built in electronic protection. I pulled apart the VST (vapour separator tank) when I first got the motor just to see how everything was inside, and I found one of the stainless bulkhead fittings that screws onto the water coil had very bad localised electrolytic corrosion and pitting. Everywhere else the stainless was in mint condition. If the pitting had traveled a bit further it would have passed the o-ring seal that separates the fuel from the sea water. The cooling water is at a higher pressure than the fuel in the VST so sea water would have mixed with the fuel and potentially corroded all injectors (ouch $$$). As usual the bastard manufacturers won't sell you a simple part and I would have had to pay A$1200 for a complete new VST. The local dealer would not sell me a used part from an old VST and tried to give me a load of BS about old VSTs are all "rusted out". Complete BS because normally the stainless fittings don't rust (localised electrolytic corrosion is different). I have some machining knowledge so managed to measure up all the dimensions and threads and made my own fitting on a lathe. Paid 90 odd dollars for a special thread tap and that was it.
vous abaissez le corps de pompe avec une main et avec l autre vous tournez l axe DANS LE SENS DES AIGUILLES D UNE MONTRE (contrairement a ce que vous avez dit!) ainsi la turbine prend sa place et vous verrez que c est plus facile
Well, this video made me bring it right to a professional. I don’t have your perseverance.
That's what professionals are for though with the right puller it is quite an easy job.
Nice vid. I just got a bit confused when you talked about anti clockwise. But then i see that ju bend the impellerblades so they get the right angle. When i change impeller i just rotate the propeller so the driveshaft rotates clockwise! seen from above, and push the housing down at the same time. Just to clearify that the impellerblades shall bend as they do when the axel rotates clockvise seen from the engine naturly.
Thanks for great vid :)
Thanks, I confuse myself, your way makes more sense.
Captain grafter again, you never stop. Tightlines 🎣
Haha cheers Dennis, you know I only do these things because I am a skinflint!
Hi - nice video. I have a pair of E-Tec 200HOs that are both showing signs of water penetration. I’m not sure I want to attempt this myself. What kind of torch is that? Did all the paint burn off when you heated it?
Hi, thanks, it's a butane torch and no surprisingly it didn't at all.
Great vid- what size bolt and thread count did you use for the puller ?
I'm sorry but I can't remember, it was a good while back
Good Vidio thank you
Thanks, hope it was useful to you.
hello my friend. My Evinrude etech 30 hp engine is leaking oil from the tail joints. The smoke is not coming out completely from the exhaust, I think the engine is choking and not working properly. Why does this?.. What should I do?..Thank you..
Tail joints? Have your oil seals gone on the lower unit?
My dear friend, the exhaust muffler of the 30 hp evinrude eteceh engine was shattered in the middle. Will it cause any harm? Will the engine start @@abakerslife
How many hours on your engine ?? I've got the same model.
Hi Keith, it's got 340 hrs on it. I bought it with 40 hrs. Interesting to learn why the injector failed...I had heard 'rumours' about there being bad batches of injectors but assumed it was an urban myth or something. I am not looking forward to having to replace the other two as well!
@@abakerslife Thanks for that. Mine's got over 380 hours so it's probably worth me pulling the propeller shaft tube out as well, to renew that seal. Looks like the anode that sits there is a bit eroded in any case, and that needs changing too.
@@keithscott9774 My seals were damaged by braided fishing line getting wrapped around the prop. I could see that they had been replaced before. I think it's inevitable that those seals will get periodically damaged so I expect to be replacing them routinely. If your oil is clean then I personally would wait till you notice a problem before replacing them as you might end up doing it regularly. The anode is dead easy to change. What sort of boat have you got it on?
@@abakerslife Swiftcraft Seagull but it looks like it's been modified a bit. The transom is a plain flat "wall" and it's had an aluminium pod that puts the engine about 500mm back from the transom. I regret getting a half cab boat because of the standing room it takes away from you. Would have been better to get a fully open boat with all controls further forward, and either make a head head cab like you did, or get a canvas canopy made.
I love the Etec engine but I live in fear of it because of parts costs. The EMM is a delicate item and if you don't take all sorts of precautions to prevent it dying, that will be another 4 figure sum to cough up. It seems to have hardly any built in electronic protection.
I pulled apart the VST (vapour separator tank) when I first got the motor just to see how everything was inside, and I found one of the stainless bulkhead fittings that screws onto the water coil had very bad localised electrolytic corrosion and pitting. Everywhere else the stainless was in mint condition. If the pitting had traveled a bit further it would have passed the o-ring seal that separates the fuel from the sea water. The cooling water is at a higher pressure than the fuel in the VST so sea water would have mixed with the fuel and potentially corroded all injectors (ouch $$$). As usual the bastard manufacturers won't sell you a simple part and I would have had to pay A$1200 for a complete new VST. The local dealer would not sell me a used part from an old VST and tried to give me a load of BS about old VSTs are all "rusted out". Complete BS because normally the stainless fittings don't rust (localised electrolytic corrosion is different). I have some machining knowledge so managed to measure up all the dimensions and threads and made my own fitting on a lathe. Paid 90 odd dollars for a special thread tap and that was it.
@@keithscott9774 Thank God you had the skills to avoid that bill!
vous abaissez le corps de pompe avec une main et avec l autre vous tournez l axe DANS LE SENS DES AIGUILLES D UNE MONTRE (contrairement a ce que vous avez dit!) ainsi la turbine prend sa place et vous verrez que c est plus facile
So all I need is to learn to weld three hours of my time to make a fancy wine opener
Sounds like you have a plan coming together.