3D printing guides: Everything about heated beds!
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- Опубликовано: 3 июл 2024
- Planning on getting a heated bed for your 3D printer? Awesome! These are the things you should know about them.
Heater mats [🌐] s.click.aliexpress.com/e/2bmUzJe (most sellers will offer custom sizes if your ask them)
Music by UncleBibby and Avaren
🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! / toms3dp 
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It's crazy how many years you've been making videos. I didn't know 3D printing existed until around 2017 when I was in high school
Thanks so much for the guide. I'm in the process of adding a heated bed to my setup now because I'm sick of all the failed prints or effort I've had to take to get a decent (still warped) printed. Keep up the good work dude!
Thank you for detailed and through explanations on all of your videos. We appriciate your time. I'm going to build a printer soon and your helping a lot.
This video was very Educational regarding the Heated Beds for printers. Thank you for making this and sharing the knowledge
Tom your videos are the best! Please keep it going, You have helped me more than you can imagine lol
this and one of your other videos is really helpful thanks(no issue with listening to and comprehending your voice)
your english is awesome, Keep it up! and thanks for all these great tips
+SKVTN i agree. I think his english is just fine.
I agree, his English is quite good. Hardly even has an accent, and sounds very natural with no funny inflections or strange word choices.
I find that a large fraction of people who say "Please forgive my poor English" actually speak English very well. Dunning-Kruger at work, they're good enough at the language that they can hear their mistakes, so they think they're terrible.
Never mind, I found your answer. Great job by the way. When I have a question I usually see if you have covered it first thing.
Hi Tom, Happy new year and I wish you the best of 2021! This has been a great educational video for me and I can't thank you enough. You have saved me some money because I was about to buy some pcb beds for my delta builds since they seem to be cheaper and there is no mention on warping issues. I will now look at the aluminum option to buy verses build yourself.
Great info. Feel better and merry christmas!
5 years later and still great info. a little dated, but mostly accurate. love your channel Tom.
Hey Tom, can you do an update to this?
Jup, would love an update on this.
Does automatic bed leveling solve any design challenges? Like pcb heater's warping is no longer an issue etc?
@@TheRainHarvester no it will not.
@@birukch7871 If the bed consistently warps under heat, and the bed-leveling is done after heating, then bed-leveling would solve that problem. (Just an example...looking for others..)
@@TheRainHarvester the warp is mostly due to cooling and the material property of the plastic. For your case. Warping due to bed problem is another issue but it will not solve your part from warping. The auto bed leveling system is a software based system. It doesn't unbend your build plate. A simple solution is to use adhesive.
Great video as always, very informative !
Thank you Tom, very informative and I'm glad I watched this video. I am in the process of trying to work out problems with the stock heating bed solution that came with my TRONXY x5sa 3d printer. I'm thinking after my research and watching your video as part of the research I'm leaning toward the silicone heater mat. I do want to put multiple thermistors on some sweet spots of my build area and I'm thinking the E3D v6 method might be the way I will go for them but still up in the air on it.
After my "home made prusa i3" with PBC heat bed, I use now aluminium plate (230*200mm) + heat mat 250W with main power on my new 3D printer.
This is clearly the way to go, from 20C to 110C in 5 minutes, I can't complain.
Also I made a hole on the side of the aluminium plate, kind of Thomas shown in the video, I figured out that this was a big win.
Hi Thomas,
Love your very professional and informative videos, please keep them coming.
Any chance you could do a guided tour of your "go to" printer at home, highlighting the main features, mods and design decision for adopting the mods? My Prusa i3 has evolved a little over time but I find myself wanting more control and will probably overhaul the entire rig soon to accommodate some of the features you have vlogged in detail over the last 12 months or so.
Thanks
Mick
For Si heaters, do what I did. Simply measure the difference over about +5 different temperatures and draw a graphic difference of this. Now calculate the error and add that to the reading in the firmware. Works great and my temps are between .4 and .6 Degrees incorrect, but still working great. Thanks for the great vid.
Awesome video thanks
I use 45c for the bed when using pla works like a charm.
your accent is not the problem. its the music man.
hey what is need if this hot bed, 3D model can't be print on any random metal surface at room tempreature ?
hot filament touches cold surface = shrinks = doesnt stick to the bed anymore
I have a PCB bed and to avoid the bowing or bulging problem I insulated the bottom of the bed with fiber glass style insulation used for pottery kilns, you can usually get it at your local hardware store =)
Great idea!! Did the insulation help with getting higher temps, and also heating up faster? How long? Thanks!
Really like your videos, Tom. Keep them coming! (I agree with another comment though - can the background music.)
You are clear and concise. That's more than 90% of other RUclips videos have going for them. It's not boring for us at all!
Great job, thanks!
Hi Thomas,
When are we going to get a review on heated chambers?
Congrats about the channel by the way!!!
Great information! I was going to use glass... I think now, aluminum!
Thomas, do you suggest using ceramic/thermostranser cpu paste - this could help even out the temps between pcb heater and aluminum sheet bed.
Awesome work mate.
Greetings from a neighbor at Poland ;)
PVA sticks nicely to a heated bed with a thin layer of Ponal. It seems Ponal is the only thing PVA sticks reliably to. It works best when freshly applied and then heating the bed up. Letting the Ponal layer drying over night and using it then works not nearly as good.
sorry to hear about your voice man hope that gets better. apart from that the towned down video was plesant to lisin to. im building a i3 my first one and its fustrating with so many different ways to do it out there it runs me in circles i have a acrillic with way to many tiny screws and nuts to count. you videows help in a big way to understand everything. thankyou and merry christmas
Love your Videos. This one is great but I am wondering if it isn't out of date; would love to see an updated version of this video.
Thomas, have you looked into PEI plastic as a replacement for tapes, glues and such? It's almost a miracle material and works perfect for ABS and PLA with no need for anything else.
I have mine on glass (TAZ 4 has the silicone heater glued to the glass) but I think the ideal combo would be a silicone heater on alluminum with PEI on top of that.
The bottom of the prints are always smooth and shiny as well since there are no materials in the way and it's flat and smooth.
Have not had that happen yet. The tape is very strong and I use a painters knofe to pry my prints off when they are really stuck (see my videos on it).
What would you recommend for a 24x24" print bed? I bought and returned 2 sheets of MIC6 cast precision ground plate both were not very straight at all. About 0.8mm off over the whole span. I'm thinking of just going with glass on top of the uneven aluminum plate. Borosilicate glass I cannot find at 24" thicker then 1/8th which would be wayy too thin. Do you think just regular glass would work? 3/16th thick or maybe 1/4th? I also cannot get a hold of any local companies that would precision grind the aluminum plate even flatter... Kind of stuck with what to do.
Hi,I am Siva,tks for your advertising for our heater bed.thank you so much.i will give u some discount for your next order.
I have been using with success aluminium beds with series of four 0,33ohm/25W power resistors (brand name resistors will last forever, no name only a few months).
+Thomas Sanladerer But you are flexible with the size of your bed. Thats my problem right now because I am planning to build a printer from scratch with a big print volume and I cant fit a fixed sized bed heater.
Thomas, now two years later, how do you feel about the quality of the silicone heaters?
Very good explanation in your Videos. I'm just starting to build a 3D printer and learned a lot from your guides. But please do Videos without the background music ;)
Hi Thomas
I like to know the difference in warmup times on different print-serfaces.
What i mean is this:
How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 12v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 24v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a pcb bed to warm up on 48v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 12v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 24v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 48v to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 110v mains to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
How long does it take a Silicon bed to warm up on 230v mains to 60c, 80c, 100c etc.
I can not find this anywhere.
Is there a excel sheet i can download?
Thank you
great instructive video there Tom. I was wondering if you prep the aluminium build surface in any way (i.e. sand it or something) I noticed quite a few lines or scratches on your aluminium surface.
I decide to use the same setup but I have difficulty getting the first ABS layer to stick to the aluminium build plate. Not even the slurry will stick to it.
Hi Tom, thanks for a very well-done channel on 3D printing! You provided a figure of 0.6 w/cm2 for a recommended heated build plate power density when printing ABS. Does this assume the heated build plate is uninsulated on the bottom? I'm working on a design for a largish printer and finding out that most/all of the power budget (USA 120 VAC @ 15A) will be required just to get the heated build plate up to temperature. Is your thinking that a well insulated heated build plate bottom would result in lowering the 0.6w/cm2 significantly?
I ordered my first 3d printer the other day and am anxiously awaiting it's delivery.... anyways... It's a Prusa I3 kit with a current build volume of 8" cubed... Later on down the line I'd like to upgrade the build volume to be probably 16" in either the X or Y axis... I think the Y axis would be easier... So my question: upgrading the build volume, would I need another heater PCB or would the one be sufficient? I suspect it's not, based on your double PCB in the video...Thanks in advance! Love your videos for the fair and honest info!
Hey Tom!
First of all thanks for your amazing vidoes. I´m watching your videos for years - and I like them a lot. Watching this old video shows how freaking good you got. As this one makes your point clear but is far from the current show :)
Enough honeysmearing. My question: Using two old HP server Powersupplies(PS) I´ve build a 24V PS with 47A. Now I´ve problems getting them to heat my Bed. I want to heat a MK2 bed with 24V spec. I tried using a SSR 50 DD. Im sure the wiring is correct. But it mainly heats the SSR. I think the Signal is to bad. Resulting only the MOSFET gets hot. The bed is heating but very very slow - like 2 degree per minute. I want to work with external MOSFETs for my ramps 1.4. Can you give me suggestions which to use and how to solder them? Do i need to change anything else? I cant find a good instruction. Thanks a lot.
I just bought a handheld IR thermometer and check the surface of the glass directly.
Thanks! Did not know that...
Hi Tom. I have some questions:
1.Do you print directly to the aluminum plate?
2.Does material stick to it well?
3. Can I use steel instead of aluminum?
Thank you.
Hello! Firstly thanks about these amazing videos, great help. My question is if and where we can drill on a pcb heated bed. (maybe outside of the rectangle area, marked with the white line?) thanks in advance!
Couldn't you use some thermal paste in between the bed and heater to make better contact?
We specialise in thermal management for 3d print beds
Hi Tom , I really enjoy all of your Vids and how you talk in terms that are easy to grasp.... random question, which printer would you use most often, and would you recommend any DIY printer that can with tweaks produce decent quality prints , I do like too tinker with all things mechanical but was trying to decide DIY or buy a commercial printer..
Thank You,
Awesome video Tom, thanks so much.
How do rate kapton heater pads against pcb and silcone?
Also, do you use any sheet material on your build plate such as buildtack?
I built my printer nearly a year ago and I'm only now fitting a heated bed and enclosure.
Thanks for providing the link for the heated pads. Where can you get the milled and planed aluminum sheets?
thank you for the video
but there is one question in my mind
can we print PLA directly on the heatbed or we must use some isolation ?
no problem to understand, alles klar!
Hi Tom
I've now mounted a sensor for autobed Leveling and it works pretty well, just a bit firmware finetuning is needed... So now i'm about to print your glidecam( which looks by the way awesome!)
Do you have some tipps for me about material adhesion, orientation uf the parts? I'll print the parts with ABS and a heated bed is avaiable. =)
Best regards form switzerland
simon
Hey Tom. I am looking in your old videos cause my heated bed just can't pass the 70 celsius, it used to work just fine... any video in particular i should check?
what videos i have watched of yours has been a great help. when you say 120 and 60 degrees i am assuming you mean Celsius. in the process of building my first prusa i3. have not got it built yet n already have done many upgrades to it that i could get from ebay. do you have any tips on building a 600mm X 600mm bed? using aluminum plate of course.
Don’t worry about your voice your English is great 👍🏻
Can a double sided pcb (both sides heating) help prevent warping? It could accept more electricity, and make more heat as a bonus?
are you also going to check out PEI as heatbed platform, some guys used it an had remarkable results.....
Im hasitating to going to buy a sheet of it because of the high shipping rates but..... well it should rock if i may believe some guys
Hi Tom, thanks for the video! I am in the process of redesigning my printer. I ordered an aluminium bed from leap 3D on ebay and it is clearly not straight once heated ( it was potentially not straight before as well, but I noticed while trying to level my bed). It's shy of 3mm. How thick is your aluminium build plate? Also, what do you cover your build plate with for the various printing materials you use? Thanks!
Hi there. Nice job! Thanks. What do you think about PEI as surface for printing on?
wondered at what points to measure the resistance of the HB because my multimeter reading rises over time until it reaches 1. that's when i measure the N-L wires. except that it should be around 1.1 ohms so i donno why it isnt.
hi a small question.
If you can use several small heat beds under an aluminum bed in order to get a larger heat bed, that I ask this is that I have not found larger heating plates for what I am going to build.
Hey Tom, where do you source your aluminum from? I've just ordered a 3d printer with a 305mm heated bed. I can't wait to get my hands on it :D
the prusa i3 mk3 has a well-distributed heat bed and the print surface is held down strong with magnets. solves a lot of problems
Hi Tom thanks for these informative videos. I have prusa i3 with aluminum heat bed & regular window glass on top but it takes extremely long time to get to 100deg. I want use a heated mat which is 230v AC so it heats very fast but not sure how it is wired so that my printer board control it. Any tips/guide on how to do so? Thanks
THANKKKKKKKKKKK YOUUUUUUUUU SOOOOO MUCH
Hey Tom, what do you think about laminating a pcb type bed heater to an aluminum plate with high temp jbweld adhesive. this would make it stay straighter and distribute the heat well.
Hi Tom. I'm brand new to 3D printing and love your videos. I have a mega Prusa i3 that came with the 200x200 Prusa heat bed. This is where I'm confused and must ask a dumb question. Do I attach the heat plate (pcb?) below the 290x270 aluminum print plate to heat the aluminum? Or do I print on the Prusa heat plate with tape in between? Sorry for the dumb question but I am confused.
Hi Tom, Do you have any suggestions on what to use to stick the silicone heat mat to the aluminum plate? im sorry if you mentioned this in the video and i missed it
My printing manufacturer is telling me I should not place an aluminum sheet on top of my mk1 heated pcb because it dissipates heat off the bed to quickly, and that loss of power would be stressful on my electronics to keep supplying energy. I thought this was strange considering the 12v, 30amp psu. What is your advice? I want to use an inductive sensor so an aluminum sheet would be the best.
Is an inductive sensor autolevel good to compensate for a slightly bowed aluminium heated build platform?
Hi Thomas! Been fan of what you do on youtube and got tons of information that helped me and my 3d printing and for that I am greatfull but I still have a huge problem a smooth print surface. In the beginning I got MK2a PCB heated bed and a 3mm glass but I got tired of leveling my bed every time i print so I changed it for a MK3 pcb heated bed with Aluminum surface. But now i realized that it has a bow in the middle and the reading that i get from auto bed leveling are not as accurate as i want them to be. Do you think changing to heated mats with 3mm aluminum sheet will help me solve this issue? Can you please suggest a way to battle the bow on heated bed since it is getting really frustrated and annoying. Thanks in advance!
Tom, how can I control a mains-powered heated bed from a Smoothieboard? Also, what kind of thickness would I need for an aluminum plate for a delta printer with a bed diameter of 38cm? It's only supported at the edges, and I'm worried about sag.
***** HAH! I should've known you'd have a video about it already!
It takes a really long time for my bed to warm up. Is there a cheap and easy way to maybe insulate the underside to speed up this process?
Hi Thomas, I like your vids a lot coz it helps me get good prints. I have a question though. I do not have any warping problems during printing with abs, but as soon as the print is done and when the part is cooled off, my part warps. I am currently printing a 5mm thin large sheet. I hope you could help me with this. Thanks.
Thanks Thomas I will try that solution out. I think you are in the right track, coz I usually put a fan right after I print ABS in order to cool it faster, maybe that is why I get warping. Once again thanks.
What thickness of aluminum plate do you recommend for making heatbed? Either for 215 mm X 215 mm and 300 mm X 300 mm.
Hi i a Prusa I3 steel, I built a couple of years ago, so far I've been using a pcb heater and glass bed. I was thinking about switching to an aluminium bed, silicone heater and use an induction probe. My problem is I've read alot that aluminium isn't as good a print surface as glass, what's your opinion?
Hi Tom, you say .6 watts per cm^2 does that factor thickness or material. I'm planing to use 6mm (or so) aluminum with 2.5mm glass on top at 330x330mm (yes inductive sensors do work through glass "I've tried it"). Will 700 watts work?
Isn't there a specific amount of energy need per gram per celsius per material?
Thank you for this video.. have subscribed your channel.. , i just got my i3 but need to build up knowledge regards this new hobby of mine ;) ,
Would like to know should i print mostly PLA and some flex, (ninjaflex) and i am in the process to upgrade to the glass bed option, what would the ideal heat be for the bed for these materials.. ?
Hi Tom, thanks for the video.
I bought a heat be for my 3d printer, but the heat bed is to big for the frame of my diy printer, can I cut the heatbed down to size?
hi, thx for the great tutorial on heated bed. i am trying to build a 600mm x600mm, any idea what control board can support the kind power/watt/amp, should i use a 24vdc or high voltage "vac". thx
Thomas, i doing my first steps in 3D printing with diy printer which have 500mm x 500mm bed, but without heated element. Is it possible to print with PETG and PLA without heated bed?
Hi i got a problem i have a Mk3 heatbed running it with a Ramps 1.4 when i try to heat up the bed it only power on for a few seconds and when i feel the mosfit its really really hot what can i do to solve it please help
Thanks, but what about PEI ? I've seen many discussions about this material and i guess i'm interested to know if it worth the money
Hello +Thomas Sanladerer!
Nice Job!!!
I have the wanhao 5s printer and i want to put a headed bed with aluminium plate. I want to know if the abs unsticks from the aluminum plate when you switch off the headed bed after the first printed layers?
Thanks!
hey, have you used borosilicated glass + PEI sheet for bed adhesion? whats yur toughts about it? thanks in advance
I ordered a silicone heater mat from aliexpress (the link you recommended) and it had some air bubbles between the double sided adhesive and the silicone. Those air bubbles caused the mat to get somewhat loose (air expanded) when heating to 90C and such. Which adhesives (prefereably available in germany) would you recommend to glue a silicone mat to a glass plate ?
Kannst auch in Deutsch antworten, in Englisch hilfts nur vielleicht mehr Leuten mit dem selben Problem.
My bed is deff warped. Only used it like twice
what would be a good way to build an enclosure? ...i built a simple enclosure but my e3d had cooling issues (i figured it would)
I know this is an old video but I'm asking myself the question because I plan to give a small printer a larger heatbed. E It's a special size, meaning I would attach two heatbeds to an aluminum plate. Can I connect the heatbeds with one ie thermostat and power and then with one board both Simultaneous control?
What is the best way to glue, or to get good thermal contact between a PCB heater and a glass bed? I just recently switched from an aluminum heatbed to glass, and the PCB heater is slightly dished. The small air gap is acting as an insulator and my glass is not getting anywhere near as hot as the PCB heater.
i have a anet e10 and my question are i can up the voltage from 12v to 16v and dont burn it?
Hello, I want to mount an aluminum bed (420x460 mm) but I don't know what thickness i should use and also which heater mats. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you
Really interesting. But you said you plugged 2 heated beds on a printer; how did you do that?
how do you adhear the silicone heating pad to the aluminum plate? I might have simply missed it.
Hello Tom, Ive been 3d printing now for 8-9 months and have been learning a lot from watching you guys do videos on 3d printing. so thanks a lot for all your useful advice and as a part of a larger community for the support which is out there.
But i do have a question, which i dont seem to be able to find a video, which specifically speaks or addresses this question, which is; (If you are knowledgeable enought to do this, but are looking to extend the size of your heat-bed platform and need to use more than one thermistor, which is the best method, if you only have _01_thermistor input to connect to your mainboard? should i connect 2x thermistors in series, or in parallel? And would this task be as simple enougth to resolve this question?
Please would you reply to this, i kindly await to know what the solution is, before it is time to further my skills in 3d printing.
Thanks
Regards
Monos Scema
Thank you for the very valuable information. Then, I'd like to upgrade my printer with aluminum bed + silicon heater. Then, what kind of adhesive would you recommend (minimum thermal impedance, but strong enough to hold the heater's weight ) ?
+Thomas Sanladerer Thank you. I got my silicon heater from QUBD/Amazon Market place, which doesn't came wit the tape. I'm going to order a silicone adhesive.
How would you configure the thermistor(s) or connect heated beds for multiple heated bed for a larger surface? i.e. 500mm x 550mm printing surface. I am looking for off the shelf vs custom made
Oh My.... its 2017 and this guys just looks like does not getting old... @_@
Just grow mustache, beard, and wear glasses....
Subscribed...
Can i use more than one heated bed if i want a bigger format printer... If a need a 600x600mm, could i use like 4 heated beds, sorry about my english and if it sounds stupped. Thanks anyway!
what about the mats? one of the first thing i did with my new tevo was puncture the mat with a screwdriver trying to get the part off. i'm not sure but it seams to be a mat aluminum bed with a stick on surface? any help would be apreated. thanks.