I bought one of his lenses last year but haven't played around with it yet. Kinda of forgot about it. Given the shutter speed issue I was thinking about doing paper negatives. Thanks for the video and kick in the butt
Andy, you made my day. What an experiment! Removing and attaching the lens lid without introducing a shake, that's difficult. Do you have a Sinar shutter? Cheers Pat
@@analogueandy8x10 obviously there is no camera shaking in the 6 negatives. The 6 different aperture openings did produce differences in sharpness, not resulting from camera shake obviously. Regarding the sinar shutter, perhaps you will need a threaded socket (3D-printed) to fit the lens barrel onto it before it can be mounted on the sinar shutter. Cheers Pat
How do you develop your X-ray films (time, developer)? Also what ISO do you use in these type of sunny shots? I have some X-ray films at home but never dared to use them... any advice in particular I should look for? Thanks.
EI 80, regardless of lighting. I only use X-ray film in daylight. I prefer to use the green-latitude variety, as it is orthochromatic. Greens are rendered slightly lighter than the blue sensitive x-ray films. You can use yellow filters with it, too. I sometimes stick on a yellow #15, or green up to a #57. Of course, any blue filters can be used. It is double-sided film, so care must be given when developing. That is why I use flat-bottomed trays. If you don't have any, you can stick a piece of plate glass in the bottom of the tray (or plexi). A smooth bottom is what you want, otherwise you'll end up with scratches. I usually use D-23 at 1+1 for about 6 minutes. The nice thing about this film, is that you can work under a safelight, and develop by inspection....and it's CHEAP! Cheers!
They are called waterhouse stops. I use something similar with my Al-vista 3B. A thing you can do is test different unique shapes to get cool looking bokeh balls. Star shapes hearts squares ext.
@@Socialmocracy no,no, you got nothing wrong. I thought there was a Waterhouse person and thus possibly an invention date. So I was just sharing additional history. I also assumed John Waterhouse being from Halifax meant Canada and not England...a thumb up for another Canadian photographer.
@@analogueandy8x10 I probably should be less direct in comments. I was agreeing with the video, that they were what you called them. Honestly didn’t see if you had a spelling error or not. I only recently found out about Waterhouse stops. I had to make some for my Al-vista. Great video as always Andy.
I tried emailing that guy and he doesn’t seem to answer them anymore. I was looking for something that could cover 14x36 and eventually just found my 1070mm f14. Did he stop selling them?
A Phototrio link I found separately had a website for R. Schable that just brings up a domain name sales site. His Flickr PRO page is still functional, but the missing first website and the language describing his work made me wonder if it was a tribute to a late artist. I hope I was wrong.
@@murrayatuptown353 I just checked out his website: www.re-inventedphotoequip.com/Home.html It works for me. Mr. Schable is around 90, so hopefully he's still active.
Excellent demonstration, and a cool lens.
Also, yay for more salt printing!
I bought one of his lenses last year but haven't played around with it yet. Kinda of forgot about it. Given the shutter speed issue I was thinking about doing paper negatives. Thanks for the video and kick in the butt
Andy, you made my day. What an experiment!
Removing and attaching the lens lid without introducing a shake, that's difficult.
Do you have a Sinar shutter?
Cheers
Pat
Without introducing a shake? Did you see the results?
No, I don't have one. I wonder if one could be modified to work on my set up?
@@analogueandy8x10 obviously there is no camera shaking in the 6 negatives. The 6 different aperture openings did produce differences in sharpness, not resulting from camera shake obviously.
Regarding the sinar shutter, perhaps you will need a threaded socket (3D-printed) to fit the lens barrel onto it before it can be mounted on the sinar shutter.
Cheers Pat
How do you develop your X-ray films (time, developer)? Also what ISO do you use in these type of sunny shots? I have some X-ray films at home but never dared to use them... any advice in particular I should look for? Thanks.
EI 80, regardless of lighting. I only use X-ray film in daylight. I prefer to use the green-latitude variety, as it is orthochromatic. Greens are rendered slightly lighter than the blue sensitive x-ray films. You can use yellow filters with it, too. I sometimes stick on a yellow #15, or green up to a #57. Of course, any blue filters can be used. It is double-sided film, so care must be given when developing. That is why I use flat-bottomed trays. If you don't have any, you can stick a piece of plate glass in the bottom of the tray (or plexi). A smooth bottom is what you want, otherwise you'll end up with scratches. I usually use D-23 at 1+1 for about 6 minutes. The nice thing about this film, is that you can work under a safelight, and develop by inspection....and it's CHEAP! Cheers!
very nice lens, interesting video. Print is awesome. I wish you to get a petzval brass lens some day and test it for a video.
Thanks! Yes, I'm still kicking myself for not buying a Petzval, back when they were dirt cheap...
@@analogueandy8x10 true, they are freaking expensive nowadays.
You can use the darkslide as a shutter.
Or you can do like I do and build a gravity powered shutter that just slips over the front.
I like the gravity powered shutter idea! How do you vary the time, though? Have a piece of black card with varying slit widths?
They are called waterhouse stops. I use something similar with my Al-vista 3B. A thing you can do is test different unique shapes to get cool looking bokeh balls. Star shapes hearts squares ext.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterhouse_stop#:~:text=Cassell%27s%20Cyclopedia%20of%20Photography%201911,Waterhouse%20of%20Halifax%20in%201858.
@@murrayatuptown353 Im confused did I get something wrong? I was agreeing with Andy.
@@Socialmocracy no,no, you got nothing wrong.
I thought there was a Waterhouse person and thus possibly an invention date. So I was just sharing additional history. I also assumed John Waterhouse being from Halifax meant Canada and not England...a thumb up for another Canadian photographer.
Thank you. I corrected the spelling in the description. Cheers!
@@analogueandy8x10 I probably should be less direct in comments. I was agreeing with the video, that they were what you called them. Honestly didn’t see if you had a spelling error or not. I only recently found out about Waterhouse stops. I had to make some for my Al-vista. Great video as always Andy.
I'm not sure what application I'd want to choose this lens for? I wonder how portraits would look?
You need to be careful with those cougars prowling around in your yard😂🤣🤣
They prefer younger meat 😁
I tried emailing that guy and he doesn’t seem to answer them anymore. I was looking for something that could cover 14x36 and eventually just found my 1070mm f14. Did he stop selling them?
A Phototrio link I found separately had a website for R. Schable that just brings up a domain name sales site. His Flickr PRO page is still functional, but the missing first website and the language describing his work made me wonder if it was a tribute to a late artist. I hope I was wrong.
I was looking for photos so I didn't read further on Photrio and moved to the Flickr page without saving the Photrio link.
@@murrayatuptown353 Well I hope he is alright. Maybe he is just over making the lenses now.
@@murrayatuptown353 I just checked out his website: www.re-inventedphotoequip.com/Home.html It works for me. Mr. Schable is around 90, so hopefully he's still active.
@@analogueandy8x10 the bad link was an old website (or had a typo? ww7...).
Crinkling !