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I still like the Xtol results better. Looked to me there was slightly more snap to it, as well as finer grain.

The FX 37 song is the best. Love it. As always great method backed by great humor.

i love your videos because you are a comedic genius

I’m continually wondering why so much emphasis is placed on examining differences between film developers. 90% of the time I’m seeing almost identical results. I suppose the very slight differences would be accentuated if making prints were the goal, but there are an almost infinite number of variables in the photographic process - shooting, developing, printing or scanning, etc., to control contrast, brightness and overall tone. I guess I’m nowhere near as critical in my thinking and judgement of image “quality”.

Thanks Andy! You hit on a question I've had for a long time. Lately I've been experimenting with developers for Fuji X-ray film, which uses their version of T-grain structure. Looks like a densitometer is almost necessary for such experiments. Your music is great!

Thanks for the video!

Mmmm tasty

Thank you for sharing. Tones turn in more strict and looks really great! I always wondering you not using gloves..

How do you think is the stability of this image?

Even though the darkroom still has lights, you opened the lid before putting it in the Stop bath. No problem with negatives? 😅

0:00 Intro 0:21 Scene Zone Placement 0:35 Exposure 1:10 Darkroom 5:20 Results

I was surprised that you didn't have a lid on the tank. I've always inverted tanks during agitation. Is there a reason? Thanks for the video ❤

What is the chemical action the sodium hydroxide have in developing?

i love semi stand with 1g

Very interesting to us D-23 users. Thanks for your continued experimentation, Andy.

Это частая проблема у Айфонов иза падения (обычно если падает на нижнию часть смартфона где разьëм зарадки) сам шлейф матрицы "повреждается" иза особенного стороения самого айфона

That’s a gorgeous camera.

Love that set up! If i wasn’t already subscribed i would hit that button 1000 times

Andy, how did you learn all this stuff?? If I knew half of what you do, I'd be a pro cinematographer.

I think the quick disk is about my speed these days. I'm thinking hard enough about composition

There are several apps for the phone to calculate bellows extension

Far out

The quick disc looks a great tool, thanks for sharing!

I like the table you created for easy calculation to 1/3 stops. When using this method in the field, my brain has only been able to handle full stop precision. Also, interested to give the ‘quick disc’ a whirl. Thanks!

Are your negatives in Red Blue Yellow but printed in CMYK?

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I could see being able to do the process here with one major downside - temperature regulation. I can see having to use ice baths to get the water down or the gelatin is just going to float away Ó╭╮Ò

Wow wow wow, that carbon black is beautiful. I've played with cyanotypes, looks like I'm going to have to see if carbon black is something I can do too

these work with fullspectrum cameras. have you converted your camera to full spectrum? th reason it doesnt work with normal cameras is because there is already a UV-IR cut filter before the sensor that cuts out UV and IR. so what you are doing with that filter is cutting visible light and UV so only IR passes through but when only the IR passes through it then hits the UV-IR filter and then cuts the IR out. So you are essentially filtering all forms of light out. when you go full spectrum you are removing that UV-IR so you will be viewing UV-Visible Light-IR and then with that filter it cuts out everything except IR and thats how you get IR images. you need to be full spectrum for this to work, and they work fantastic by the way

Is there's a chance this would work with C-41 processing

Thanks for showing the entire process. These vids deserve more attention!

I discovered your review right after purchasing mine. I was quite anxious when it arrived, but I’m pleased to report that my copy is working perfectly with a 50mm lens. I will test further with wider Focal length which could cause issues. Though it is also possible that 'Fotga' has a quality assurance problems? Thanks for you review...

Just curious. Did you build that camera? Looks well thought out. I always dreamed off building a camera around a holder....nice job!

With Xray film is there no reciprocity failure to consume your self with? I've got a 14x17 and have been thinking about getting some Xray film but I heard it goes bad quickly. True?

What a process. You need to really make sure you want to print that negative before going through that process. The results are worth it though.

Another Great video Andy Loved the tunes

It’s great seeing this entire process. So many steps that need to succeed. The end result is like the unveiling of a small miracle.

To prevent fixer smell, I use a short 30 sec water wash after the stop bath, works wonders!

Huge beautiful work. I really enjoy it

awesome

Cool, I enjoyed the time spent. Thanks.

Looks absolutely gorgeous around there, Andy.

I've used a recently acquired Mamiya 6 Automat (self cocking) and it's impressive. The Olympus lenses are prone to coating loss but are sharp for fifties glass. As good as a Tessar from CZ. The cameras are bigger than many 120X12 folders, and heavier as well. Mine is reliable and spaces the shots properly on film. The RF is adjustable. I wouldn't call this an urban sniper but it delivers decent images in reasonable working time. The finder is larger than most of that period, a good thing. Their build quality is middle of the road.

Thanks for your video I ask you about what kind of film do you use?? haw many times you develop it with D 23?? Congratulations from ARGENTINA

Thanks for sharing Andy

nice work there my friend! a have a question...whats the purpose of shrinking the paper into water?is this kind of sizing it? i do it with gelatin and formaldehyde, thats why am asking..keep up your beautifull work, greetings from Greece!

Hell nah...🤣

I use a couple different apps and keep them incase like here with you I need them in a pinch. I find them pretty accurate. Shooting B&W film I always just add a little exposure to the reading.

I compared my iphone lightmeter to both my Pentax digital spot meters and the results were very close, within a stop usually.

I haver multiple meters but frequently use the My Lightmeter Pro Ap with good results. The "spot" on that app is nowhere near as narrow as on your Sekonic, but works to middle grey for larger areas. For critical situations, I will walk the meter to a subject, make the reflective meeting directly off it, then adjust the exposure for the situation. I always assume that "sunny sixteen" produces middle grey in an area in full sun, although I never have to resort to that b/c I am never without my phone.

From experience, the quality of the lightmeter app doesn't depend as much on the app as it does on the phone. Years ago, I got Lightmeter by David Quiles (it's only 2.99 CAD$) and was very happy with it on an old Samsung phone. I then got an LG and the readings would change by about 5 stops in between successive readings... not good. Now I got a used Samsung and the readings are back to normal. Thing is that they all use the EXIF data given by the camera. If those values are wrong (like on the LG), the results will be wrong as well.