The clips that I am referring to in the video, were to hold the focussing cloth on the camera, to keep it from sliding off. I actually didn't forget them...They were in the pack, with the 8x10, in the car! 😆
Your lighting at the church was very nice that day. Softer light and nice blue sky with little clouds. I hope you took some color there with light like that. Your print turned out well and reminds me a bit like the scans i got when I was there back in July. I noticed this time you used a more traditional composition. Its a great shot. Ill have to go back in early fall to get the colored leaves and softer light. I noticed you were tripped up about reciprocity haha. Look forward to your next video of the other half. Did you shoot some color there?
The reciprocity "trip up" was staged, just for you LOL! I had medium format colour, but was more focussed on large format. I set up the 8x10 right after this shot, to get a few more comps. If the leaves were still on the trees, I would have taken a few on colour.
@analogueandy8x10 seeing the video I definately would have shot color that day, even without the leaves. Blue sky with puffy little clouds everywhere, soft warm light on the church, etc.
@@braxus351W well, you are more into colour photography than me 🙂 I was planning to shoot some colour the following day (had to drive to Kelowna after this shoot), but it ended up being a rainy, overcast day. Next year!
Sadly, me! 😁 I built it back in 2011, including bellows. The bellows you see on the camera was professionally made by Custom Bellows in the UK. My original bellows was pretty bad! If you watch videos from a few years ago, you'll see what I mean! 😁
@@analogueandy8x10thanks for the response. It’s quite a nice build. I’ve had aspirations to build such a camera but the idea of constructing the rear standard where the film holder inserts feels very intimating.
@@chasingtheleitz It wasn't too bad. I built the back around the film holder. The focus was where I had the most difficulty. I scrapped the idea of having similar focussing mechanism as the Philips and Chamonix cameras. I have to slide by hand the front standard backward/forward, and then lock with a simple bolt screw. For the ground glass, I used clear acrylic, sanded with find sand paper. The image is surprisingly bright, and I never have to worry about breaking it!
Your negatives look great ! What film material did you use at which ISO rating ? D How do you avoid scratches ? Background: - I use Fuji UM-MA HC (a singe sided mamo film) in 18x24cm since two years, cut to 9x12cm. - I shot and developed in Rodinal (I failed with Xtol from Adox) more than 400 of those 9x12 so far. Despite I dislike the one shot developer due to the developer waste volume it generates. - I develop in the US FR/Doran tank with 12 sheets at once, but I am again and again not always) unhappy (with uneven development as you can not rotate the - tank. And this despite I filled extra space and holes (for 4x5) with spacers which made it better but not always. - Being in the construction process of an 30x40 / 24x30 *) camera I wanted to train with the x-ray film, but found my love also with that x-ray film **) in that format. *) max size of mamo films. **) yes, core reason is that it is cheaper than even 6x6 on Foma per shoot - For protection against scratches and non even development I am considering: - to mock the FR/Doran tanks with an Jobo lid - make thin open tanks in 30x40 and frames (like Kodak 4x5/8x10 rails so that I can develop one sheet after the other . That "thin" requirement out of volume/cost/time reasons is another thing what I dislike on Rodinal, because I would like more volume (still single sheet) and do the developer stock reuse method like with Ilford developers I do for 135/120 since ages.
I'm using Fujifilm Super HR-U green, double-sided. I usually expose it at EI 80. I use flat-bottom trays. I don't get any scratches. Before I sourced a few of these trays, I had to use regular ribbed darkroom trays, with plate glass inserted. For 8x10, I used super large ziplock bags, in the tray. Both the developer and film were in the bag, and then zipped closed. I tried hangers, but then had to deal with turbulence on the film. Flat-bottom was the answer for me in the end.
Do you use a padded pouch to carry the ULF camera in which you put it into? Every time you use the camera, do you need to take it by car to the location nearby first?
Yes, it's mainly been a "roadside" camera...although this time I did have to hump it along a road going slightly uphill for about 50 metres... The bag I keep it in is heavily padded, with carrying handles and a shoulder strap. Too heavy to carry with the shoulder strap. I keep the one holder in the back on the camera when transporting it, as well as the dark cloth. I keep the lenses that I use for it, in a separate pouch, that I can wear around my waste. With all four lenses in, it's quite heavy, pulling my pants down LOL. If I ever want to hike with it (heaven forbid!), I will have to come up with some sort of a back pack system...although I am not aware of one that big! I'll probably have to make one from an old backpack frame...
@@analogueandy8x10 dear Andy, thank you very much for the great explanation. You know, I want such a system of what the army soldiers and serious backpackers use. It is called a frame racksack, without a sack but just an aluminium frame where you can rope the load (the padded bag containing the camera, the film holder) onto, tighting them up so that you can carry the frame, like a robust hiking backpack on your shoulders.
Yes, but I have clips attached to the bellows that take care of that. If you go to the 1:05 mark, you can see the strap on the top of the bellows, as well as the bolt that it attaches to, on the front standard (I haven't attached yet). You can see it attached at the 5:33 mark. A bellows this size and shape, will almost certainly have a lot of sag! Even my 8x10 has a log of sag. That is mainly because of the design of the Light Weight version. This version has the small front standard that accepts 110mm lens boards.
I'm curious: why 14x17? 11x14 is almost as big and film should be more commonly available as well as possibly less expensive. They're both pretty square.
I was originally going to go to 16x20, but 14x17 was a bit cheaper, and close enough in size...and available in X-RAY. You never know though, if I see an 11x14 for a great price...At least the holders are much cheaper than 14x17!
Pro tip #64; if you point your camera down wind, your bellows will inflate....oh , and its pronounced; recent property, because you're broke from owning too many cameras and buying too much film.. next pro tip is #f90 soon to be lost in time reciprocity failure. Were all fallible , keep up the good work and laughing at our foibles. On a serious note, put snaps on the camera top to match ones on the dark cloth... no clips but added wieght.
👏😄Очень круто!!! 👍
nice photo andy.
Very neat Andrew, really like the carbon transfer
The clips that I am referring to in the video, were to hold the focussing cloth on the camera, to keep it from sliding off. I actually didn't forget them...They were in the pack, with the 8x10, in the car! 😆
Stunning
NICE PRINT!
That came out very well. I do like the carbon prints, although I've not seen one in person.
wonderfull Andy
Once again, love the carbon transfer look
Your lighting at the church was very nice that day. Softer light and nice blue sky with little clouds. I hope you took some color there with light like that. Your print turned out well and reminds me a bit like the scans i got when I was there back in July. I noticed this time you used a more traditional composition. Its a great shot. Ill have to go back in early fall to get the colored leaves and softer light. I noticed you were tripped up about reciprocity haha. Look forward to your next video of the other half. Did you shoot some color there?
The reciprocity "trip up" was staged, just for you LOL! I had medium format colour, but was more focussed on large format. I set up the 8x10 right after this shot, to get a few more comps. If the leaves were still on the trees, I would have taken a few on colour.
@analogueandy8x10 seeing the video I definately would have shot color that day, even without the leaves. Blue sky with puffy little clouds everywhere, soft warm light on the church, etc.
@@braxus351W well, you are more into colour photography than me 🙂 I was planning to shoot some colour the following day (had to drive to Kelowna after this shoot), but it ended up being a rainy, overcast day. Next year!
Beautiful !!
Hi Rudd! How's the salt printing coming? I'm currently working on a large salt print...
Could you use a Kodak tray siphon? It would save bickering wash water , hook right up to faucet.
I have one of those but I find doing the bucket method is quite effective, and saves on water. It's kInd of like the Ilford wash method.
Thanks for sharing. Who is the manufacturer of your 14x17 camera?
Sadly, me! 😁 I built it back in 2011, including bellows. The bellows you see on the camera was professionally made by Custom Bellows in the UK. My original bellows was pretty bad! If you watch videos from a few years ago, you'll see what I mean! 😁
@@analogueandy8x10thanks for the response. It’s quite a nice build. I’ve had aspirations to build such a camera but the idea of constructing the rear standard where the film holder inserts feels very intimating.
@@chasingtheleitz It wasn't too bad. I built the back around the film holder. The focus was where I had the most difficulty. I scrapped the idea of having similar focussing mechanism as the Philips and Chamonix cameras. I have to slide by hand the front standard backward/forward, and then lock with a simple bolt screw. For the ground glass, I used clear acrylic, sanded with find sand paper. The image is surprisingly bright, and I never have to worry about breaking it!
Your negatives look great !
What film material did you use at which ISO rating ? D
How do you avoid scratches ?
Background:
- I use Fuji UM-MA HC (a singe sided mamo film) in 18x24cm since two years, cut to 9x12cm.
- I shot and developed in Rodinal (I failed with Xtol from Adox) more than 400 of those 9x12 so far. Despite I dislike the one shot developer due to the developer waste volume it generates.
- I develop in the US FR/Doran tank with 12 sheets at once, but I am again and again not always) unhappy (with uneven development as you can not rotate the - tank. And this despite I filled extra space and holes (for 4x5) with spacers which made it better but not always.
- Being in the construction process of an 30x40 / 24x30 *) camera I wanted to train with the x-ray film, but found my love also with that x-ray film **) in that format.
*) max size of mamo films.
**) yes, core reason is that it is cheaper than even 6x6 on Foma per shoot
- For protection against scratches and non even development I am considering:
- to mock the FR/Doran tanks with an Jobo lid
- make thin open tanks in 30x40 and frames (like Kodak 4x5/8x10 rails so that I can develop one sheet after the other .
That "thin" requirement out of volume/cost/time reasons is another thing what I dislike on Rodinal, because I would like more volume (still single sheet) and do the developer stock reuse method like with Ilford developers I do for 135/120 since ages.
I'm using Fujifilm Super HR-U green, double-sided. I usually expose it at EI 80. I use flat-bottom trays. I don't get any scratches. Before I sourced a few of these trays, I had to use regular ribbed darkroom trays, with plate glass inserted. For 8x10, I used super large ziplock bags, in the tray. Both the developer and film were in the bag, and then zipped closed. I tried hangers, but then had to deal with turbulence on the film. Flat-bottom was the answer for me in the end.
@@analogueandy8x10 Many thanks for your quick answer ! Your handling concepts are definitive paths letting me think about. Cheers
Do you use a padded pouch to carry the ULF camera in which you put it into? Every time you use the camera, do you need to take it by car to the location nearby first?
Yes, it's mainly been a "roadside" camera...although this time I did have to hump it along a road going slightly uphill for about 50 metres... The bag I keep it in is heavily padded, with carrying handles and a shoulder strap. Too heavy to carry with the shoulder strap. I keep the one holder in the back on the camera when transporting it, as well as the dark cloth. I keep the lenses that I use for it, in a separate pouch, that I can wear around my waste. With all four lenses in, it's quite heavy, pulling my pants down LOL. If I ever want to hike with it (heaven forbid!), I will have to come up with some sort of a back pack system...although I am not aware of one that big! I'll probably have to make one from an old backpack frame...
@@analogueandy8x10 dear Andy, thank you very much for the great explanation.
You know, I want such a system of what the army soldiers and serious backpackers use. It is called a frame racksack, without a sack but just an aluminium frame where you can rope the load (the padded bag containing the camera, the film holder) onto, tighting them up so that you can carry the frame, like a robust hiking backpack on your shoulders.
@@PatAcct I am very familiar with those from my army cadet days back in the 70's! I'll have to check out an army surplus shop...
You have some serious bellows sag issues!
Yes, but I have clips attached to the bellows that take care of that. If you go to the 1:05 mark, you can see the strap on the top of the bellows, as well as the bolt that it attaches to, on the front standard (I haven't attached yet). You can see it attached at the 5:33 mark. A bellows this size and shape, will almost certainly have a lot of sag! Even my 8x10 has a log of sag. That is mainly because of the design of the Light Weight version. This version has the small front standard that accepts 110mm lens boards.
I'm curious: why 14x17? 11x14 is almost as big and film should be more commonly available as well as possibly less expensive. They're both pretty square.
I was originally going to go to 16x20, but 14x17 was a bit cheaper, and close enough in size...and available in X-RAY. You never know though, if I see an 11x14 for a great price...At least the holders are much cheaper than 14x17!
Pro tip #64; if you point your camera down wind, your bellows will inflate....oh , and its pronounced; recent property, because you're broke from owning too many cameras and buying too much film.. next pro tip is #f90 soon to be lost in time reciprocity failure. Were all fallible , keep up the good work and laughing at our foibles.
On a serious note, put snaps on the camera top to match ones on the dark cloth... no clips but added wieght.
Recent property!! 🤣And thank you for the great tip!