Thank you so much for this video -- I was going crazy pulling fuses but I was not allowing time for the startups to finish, so I was having no luck finding the drain. I used your suggestion to allow time to pass before checking fuses, and was finally able to find the power window circuit as the problem. Thank you!
Great stuff. In my experience on my wife's 2003 Accord EX (engine difference doesn't matter), the issue is that if the driver's window is left open and the window switch gets wet, the switch module will fail and cause a parasitic loss just like this.
Thank you very much, I had same problem fuse no.7 , 0.15A, (checked navi, gauge cluster,wiper switch , MICU) but did not know it is switches windows switches in driver doors - lock switch was faulty)
Great diagnostics beyond simple draw tests. Would your tools cover a Honda Legend 2006 KB1. I can't find the schematics related to fuse 7 10A Drivers side fuse box (RH drive UK car). The draw is 0.3A! I have a list of potential modules but not the locations. I hope you may have some suggestions. Best video I found.
Thanks for this video. It is awesome. Love the bacon on the stove! Solid! Just wondered, I have a 2006 accord with the same issue. What I’ve noticed is that when my car is off, I can still use the power window switch to roll down the windows. I’m thinking that may be an indication that the draw is coming from my power window module too. So, did you replace the control board with the switches on it or did you actually have to replace the connector there that plugs into the control board. And, did your window roll down without having the key turned on too? Thank you so much!
@20:13 is it possible you can take that out and look for corrosion and possibly remove the corrosion? Possible that the driver's window was accidentally left open and that module filled with water? I'm just stabbing at possibilities.
Same issue. 2010. I’m Not a mechanic. Unplugged alternator and sat for several days. Battery volt remained stable. And no more parasitic draw. So I’m assuming it’s the alternator. Weird thing is Honda couldn’t find issue.
@BruceWayne-sz3th just saw your reply. It was a rusty/corroded outside door lock. “Stuck” in mid lock. So always getting signal to lock doors. I replaced the lock cylinder and now it it good. I just kept at it for about two months before I found the issue. Sadly, I knew the lock was bad all along and could have saved a lot of time. Digital metering just about everything kept coming back to door harness stuff.
Thank you so much for this video -- I was going crazy pulling fuses but I was not allowing time for the startups to finish, so I was having no luck finding the drain. I used your suggestion to allow time to pass before checking fuses, and was finally able to find the power window circuit as the problem. Thank you!
Thanks so much for your time. Greatly appreciate the knowledge.
Great stuff. In my experience on my wife's 2003 Accord EX (engine difference doesn't matter), the issue is that if the driver's window is left open and the window switch gets wet, the switch module will fail and cause a parasitic loss just like this.
Great Diagnostic Work. 👍
Thank you very much, I had same problem fuse no.7 , 0.15A, (checked navi, gauge cluster,wiper switch , MICU) but did not know it is switches windows switches in driver doors - lock switch was faulty)
Great video
Great diagnostics beyond simple draw tests. Would your tools cover a Honda Legend 2006 KB1. I can't find the schematics related to fuse 7 10A Drivers side fuse box (RH drive UK car). The draw is 0.3A! I have a list of potential modules but not the locations. I hope you may have some suggestions. Best video I found.
where is the red lead going
I need to know how you get on the honda service data?
Thanks for this video. It is awesome. Love the bacon on the stove! Solid! Just wondered, I have a 2006 accord with the same issue. What I’ve noticed is that when my car is off, I can still use the power window switch to roll down the windows. I’m thinking that may be an indication that the draw is coming from my power window module too. So, did you replace the control board with the switches on it or did you actually have to replace the connector there that plugs into the control board. And, did your window roll down without having the key turned on too? Thank you so much!
@20:13 is it possible you can take that out and look for corrosion and possibly remove the corrosion? Possible that the driver's window was accidentally left open and that module filled with water? I'm just stabbing at possibilities.
We could take apart the item to get to the circuit board to see and troubleshoot the short.
well done young man .
I can’t wait to go home and tried this out 😮💨
Same issue. 2010. I’m Not a mechanic. Unplugged alternator and sat for several days. Battery volt remained stable. And no more parasitic draw. So I’m assuming it’s the alternator. Weird thing is Honda couldn’t find issue.
@BruceWayne-sz3th just saw your reply. It was a rusty/corroded outside door lock. “Stuck” in mid lock. So always getting signal to lock doors. I replaced the lock cylinder and now it it good. I just kept at it for about two months before I found the issue. Sadly, I knew the lock was bad all along and could have saved a lot of time. Digital metering just about everything kept coming back to door harness stuff.
my multimeter shows 00.1- 00.2 is it good?
Mine was fuse 6. I just pulled it out
Hello! What was the fuse 6 please? I have an 06 accord having the same issue with the battery and it is frustrating! Thank you so much!
@@BruceWayne-pz8gv same
@@bobbyshake5062did you find issue?
nice diagnose