Do you have a video with how to handle the stair nose? I am tackling two stair landings (stained the rest of the steps but need LVP on landings) and would love to see how I need to go about this. Thanks
Great job, and some great advice, but as I prepare to install my own LVP on stairs I was wondering how you install bull nosing since they don't make it for LVP.
By bull nosing, I'm assuming you're referring to stair nosing? If so, they definitely make it for LVP. They make flush mount and overlap stair caps. Check with the manufacturer of the product you're installing.
@@leearnold0911 Yes I did indeed mean stair nosing, and I will check with the manufacture, I was going on information from the retailer, thanks again for the great advice
I had a guy in south florida get my LVP floor and using a router he formed a square bullnose. How he did it I have no idea, but for 15$ a stair i’ll take it
I just installed LVP on my stairs and made a jig like yours and it worked great. The planks are tight to the wall. Glued them all down. The flooring company had someone make square noses out of the same vinyl planks so they interlock and look seamless. The only problem is the LVP ends rubs on the wall making creaks/noises while you walk on the stairs. Have you had and problems with noise after installations? I was thinking of rubbing paraffin wax on the ends that meet the walls while installing to prevent noises after installation.... still need to install my lower stairs.
@@leearnold0911 Do those bullnose trim pieces over lap the tread piece of flooring and sit about 1/4" above the plank panel ? That is how I finished my floor planks to the 1stair going down. I am concerned about somebody claiming it's a trip hazard at the floor landing going down. I have never had a problem.
@@jetboy770371 the LVP Stair nosing we use isn't nearly that thick. A 1/4" is fairly significant. Ours sit maybe 1/16" over the floor. It's not very noticeable at all.
No, vinyl is very stable and modern LVP doesn't expand. The expansion joints required by the manufacturer are because the walls, cabinets, etc move due to temps and humidity.
@@btarr13 our code requires a minimum of 11" of tread depth. I've found that cutting off a nosing, reduces the depth to less that the required 11". Also, I've never found an LVT stair nosing that actually does cover the "face" of the tread completely. I rip a piece of flooring and install over the face of the tread, THEN install the nosing. Looks very clean, while still giving a nice overhang of the tread over the riser below.
Do you have a video of installing nose with that overlap? To cover my tread, I will need 1.25-1.50" which isn't sold commonly, at least to match. I'm having to buy a metal stair nose with 1.5" height. Just doesnt seem to look good. The videos I see are cutting off the overhanging tread to make it flush, which I don't think I can do with mine.
@@joeschneider8025 tread depth should be no less than 10" with nosing and no less than 11" without nosing. If I come across a tread that's at 10" with nosing, I'm not going to cut off the nosing, which is probably an inch or more. That would make the tread too shallow to meet code. Hope that answers your question. 🤷🏼♂️
Not on stairs because they are fully adhered. Also, modern LVP is fully stable under normal circumstances. The stairs aren't in direct sunlight ever, much less several hours per day.
@@leearnold0911 Ok great! Another question... What would you recommend for matching lvp that's is butting up with first stair. The direction on the main floor is vertical (that does have expanstion gap) and stairs will be horizontal. The 90°angle? I want to avoid quarter round. Is that our only option?
You make things too difficult the board flexes no need for all of that did you box your steps before you start it you sure can't put a stair nose on a stair nose
High quality comment here folks. Someone should hire this guy. He seems like he probably does high quality, craigslist advertising work for his customers. He'll probably even haul away any old junk metal you have laying around at no charge as well.
@@joeschneider8025 it just shows that you troll around RUclips, looking to tell people how they're doing something incorrectly. Have a good day as well.
Just helping people out with my knowledge been doing this for 40 years 20 years Union 20 years self-employed if they can't take your critique they shouldn't put it in the public
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Your work is worth every penny! Master of the trade
Great work! But I would of lover how you installed the nose pieces..
That is slick! Felt like I was right there with you. I’d watch the nosing one next please.
Finally did the nosing today. Didn't have a camera man 🥺
@@leearnold0911 Please post a nosing video as soon as possible. Until then, can you post what kind of nosing you used? Thank you!
@@leearnold0911 I'd like to see the nosing as well.
Confidence!! Doesn’t even do a dry fit!!
Great job son! I have to get up there soon. I'll bring my equipment. Would love to shoot a video with you.
Good professional job Lee
Thanks!
Good Job! but I did see you install the stair nose. Do have an updated video? Thank you!
I don't unfortunately. They were backordered and I went back many weeks later to install. Didn't bring my cameraman (son) along...
Do you have a video with how to handle the stair nose? I am tackling two stair landings (stained the rest of the steps but need LVP on landings) and would love to see how I need to go about this. Thanks
I don't, but I'm doing some stair nosing today. I'll see if I can get some video for you.
Brilliant man, thanks for the idea. I'm leveling out 1500 sqft of concrete (floor leveler and concrete grinding). I'd rather be taken hostage.
Yep....I sub that out haha
Nice Jig!!
good job
Does the stairs have tips that stick out? How do you handle that? Cut off, fill in ? Or does thr nose cover it up?
This is GREAT!
Great work 👍🏼
Great job, and some great advice, but as I prepare to install my own LVP on stairs I was wondering how you install bull nosing since they don't make it for LVP.
By bull nosing, I'm assuming you're referring to stair nosing? If so, they definitely make it for LVP. They make flush mount and overlap stair caps. Check with the manufacturer of the product you're installing.
@@leearnold0911 Yes I did indeed mean stair nosing, and I will check with the manufacture, I was going on information from the retailer, thanks again for the great advice
I had a guy in south florida get my LVP floor and using a router he formed a square bullnose. How he did it I have no idea, but for 15$ a stair i’ll take it
Thank you for the video. Have you done a video on installing the stair cap? Or is there a video from someone else you recommend I watch?
I haven't man. I like to watch, "so that's how you do that". He probably has what you're looking for. Thanks for watching!
The volume on the microphone for the miter saw about blew my eardrums
Not sure what to do about that...
can you add a video showing how you made the "stair master" jig you use in video?
might be worth getting the stair thread measuring kit on amazon. They’re are like 40$ and you just need a 1x2 to use em
Sorry, I don't have a video of that. It's a simple jig made with scrap mdf I had sitting around.
I just installed LVP on my stairs and made a jig like yours and it worked great. The planks are tight to the wall. Glued them all down. The flooring company had someone make square noses out of the same vinyl planks so they interlock and look seamless. The only problem is the LVP ends rubs on the wall making creaks/noises while you walk on the stairs. Have you had and problems with noise after installations? I was thinking of rubbing paraffin wax on the ends that meet the walls while installing to prevent noises after installation.... still need to install my lower stairs.
I have never had that issue. Maybe try again, but don't make the jig so tight? Sorry, but again, I've never seen this issue.
@@leearnold0911 Thanks for the input. You’re probably right I should not make the pieces to snug fitting. Thanks for the video!
Great job, I’m installing using your tips, but the lvp nose I got is 1 inch thick and the OSB is 1 1/4. I dont know how to solve this issue.
Either cut the osb nosing back flush with the riser, or instal a "face piece" of lvt....maybe 1 1/2" to hide the osb and then instal the stair nosing.
I can email you pictures if you send me your address
What brand of Adhesive you were used for your stair tread installation? Thanks for reply in advance, I plan to install LVP on my stair.
Liquid Nails
Excelent idea
Thanks a lot
What type of adhesive did you use?
Liquid Nails
What did you use for the trim around the edge of the stair. Bull nose trim?
Hi! Yes, most LVP manufacturers offer color matching stair nosing.
@@leearnold0911 thank you!
@@leearnold0911 Do those bullnose trim pieces over lap the tread piece of flooring and sit about 1/4" above the plank panel ? That is how I finished my floor planks to the 1stair going down. I am concerned about somebody claiming it's a trip hazard at the floor landing going down. I have never had a problem.
@@jetboy770371 the LVP Stair nosing we use isn't nearly that thick. A 1/4" is fairly significant. Ours sit maybe 1/16" over the floor. It's not very noticeable at all.
@@leearnold0911 can you send a link so we can see what that looks like?
nice work.
Thanks!
4.2 mm vinyl plank that has 1.5 mm black backing on it. Safe to leave backing on it and glue to the stairs?
Sure is.
How far away should the edge of the plank be from the edge of the "stairnose"
All depends on the product and stair nose. This one is an overlap, so the material ran right to the edge of the tread.
@@leearnold0911 Understood. Great video man thanks 👍
Shouldn't you leave a 1/16 of an inch for expansion?
How's it going to expand? It's glued down
Would the vinyl planks expand on the steps?
No, vinyl is very stable and modern LVP doesn't expand. The expansion joints required by the manufacturer are because the walls, cabinets, etc move due to temps and humidity.
@@leearnold0911 Thanks. Now I can install the vinyl planks on my stairs without baseboards.
Some nosing dont cover front of tread what do you do about that? Easier and cleaner if you cut the nosing off and over lap from bottom
Why would you cut off the nosing? In most cases that is going to make the treads too short for code.
I've never had an issue with code..I have had plenty of those LVP nosings not covering the plywood all the way
@@btarr13 our code requires a minimum of 11" of tread depth. I've found that cutting off a nosing, reduces the depth to less that the required 11". Also, I've never found an LVT stair nosing that actually does cover the "face" of the tread completely. I rip a piece of flooring and install over the face of the tread, THEN install the nosing. Looks very clean, while still giving a nice overhang of the tread over the riser below.
Do you have a video of installing nose with that overlap? To cover my tread, I will need 1.25-1.50" which isn't sold commonly, at least to match. I'm having to buy a metal stair nose with 1.5" height. Just doesnt seem to look good. The videos I see are cutting off the overhanging tread to make it flush, which I don't think I can do with mine.
I have the same problem with 1.5” nosing! Not sure if I should cut off nosing or leave it on?!
how do you handle the bottom of the stairs?
What do you mean? The bottom would riser would meet the flooring below.
@@leearnold0911 do I need to add a quarter round to hide .25inch gap?
@@ralphez you could use base shoe, quarter round, or number of decorative trims.
You needed two pieces for the foot of the stairs. You should have shared that. Then you didn’t share how you do the stair caps
This was more a video to show how to use a jig.
Did you prep your steps to accommodate stair nose because it look like you left the nose on aren't you supposed to box step that's what I do
Depends on the tread depth. Sometimes there's not enough to cut off the original nosing and maintain the proper tread depth for code.
You either cut it off are you ad you can't put a stair nose on a stair nose no exceptions
Do you think that half-inch nosing on that laminate is code
@@joeschneider8025 not sure what you're saying
@@joeschneider8025 tread depth should be no less than 10" with nosing and no less than 11" without nosing. If I come across a tread that's at 10" with nosing, I'm not going to cut off the nosing, which is probably an inch or more. That would make the tread too shallow to meet code. Hope that answers your question. 🤷🏼♂️
What’s the labor price for each stair?
My wife sells and handles pricing, but I believe we charge around $80.00/step. For more complex stairs, I believe she charges $125/step.
@@leearnold0911 that’s with materials included ?
@@blahblahh8796 negative. That's labor only.
@@leearnold0911 what state do you live in? That’s quite a good rate for yourself. How much do you charge a sq ft to install lvp ?
@@blahblahh8796 Omaha, Nebraska. We charge $3.25/sf
What glue is best?
There is a specific glue for lvp flooring that is troweled onto the wood treads and risers. But, I just generally use liquid nails.
@@leearnold0911 thank you sir
@@leearnold0911 there are many different types of liquid nail glues. Which one?
So you don't need expansion gap?
Not on stairs because they are fully adhered. Also, modern LVP is fully stable under normal circumstances. The stairs aren't in direct sunlight ever, much less several hours per day.
@@leearnold0911 Ok great! Another question... What would you recommend for matching lvp that's is butting up with first stair. The direction on the main floor is vertical (that does have expanstion gap) and stairs will be horizontal. The 90°angle? I want to avoid quarter round. Is that our only option?
@@kylieanhalt5102 send me a photo at lee@jlconstructomaha.com
@@leearnold0911 ok email sent.
What is the best adhesive to use?
@@kylieanhalt5102 I like liquid nails myself
Score and snap????
Table saw is much more accurate.
Annnnd faster
Probably took a week to do 😅😅🤣🤣
Nah....few hours
You make things too difficult the board flexes no need for all of that did you box your steps before you start it you sure can't put a stair nose on a stair nose
High quality comment here folks. Someone should hire this guy. He seems like he probably does high quality, craigslist advertising work for his customers. He'll probably even haul away any old junk metal you have laying around at no charge as well.
Sorry I just realized I already commented have a good day
@@joeschneider8025 it just shows that you troll around RUclips, looking to tell people how they're doing something incorrectly. Have a good day as well.
Just helping people out with my knowledge been doing this for 40 years 20 years Union 20 years self-employed if they can't take your critique they shouldn't put it in the public