LVP DIY Bullnose stair tread with heat gun
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2022
- I wanted to make LVP bullnose stair treads to match the flooring we are installing. I'm not the best at the video side but hopefully you get all the info you need to tackle your project. The video shows the jig for bending the LVP, and another jig for installing. I used a heat gun for bending the LVP, and each one took around 5 min to heat and I left them cool for about 10 min before removing from the jig.
Развлечения
A follow up video showing how the stairs hold up, plus it shows a closeup of the first stair tread and how it goes together. ruclips.net/video/4wTjXYlbTOo/видео.html
That was awesome work Danny. Definitely will be replicating what you did just for curiosity reasons. Love the final look.
Thanks, much appreciated! I wasn't sure going in if it would work or not. Almost 2 years, no issues.
Best bending video on utube and I have seen like 20.
Thanks! Much appreciated!
I agree, thanks for sharing, I will be doing the same thing here in about a month.
@@tuliotooks hope it helps!
Agreed
Setup and prep make the jod go smoothly,,Great video.. lots of good info
Looks great! Nice work, I will be attempting this soon and has a lot of good tips from many videos in one.
Thanks! I hope it helps!
Excellent work fella! About to tackle this project on the weekend. Cheers!
Thanks! I hope it goes great!
Wanted to do this a few years ago but couldn't come up with a DIY solution. Many thanks, and great instructive video.
Thanks! Much appreciated
this is the best video i have seen so far for diy bullnose! thank you Sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome job. Been an installer since 2003
Thanks! Much appreciated!
Just wanted to leave a comment to thank you for making this video. Your instruction saved me around $1500 for my project!
Thats awesome! Glad the video helped!!
Outstanding work!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
@dannykissel finally finished the steps and ledges using your video.
It was a great help. Thank you
Awesome! Glad it helped!
A well done project!
Fantastic work around 👍
Thanks!
Nicely done! Best I've seen as well
Thanks!!
That is an awesome job and excellent idea. thank you so much. Hubby will do this for me 😁
Hope this helps!
Great idea. Great jig. Great video. Thank you.
Thanks! Much Appreciated
Wow nice job Brother. Great video. Thank you for sharing I appreciate it.
Thanks!!
Very good explanation,,thanks for it sir ,thanks to help others.
Thank you!
very nice work as you stated DIY, a little tender love and care but most of all PATIENCE and it can be done.
Thanks! It was fun and a year later still looks as good!
Bending a nose is a great idea. I prefer a smaller radius or square nose. Using a 1x will produce a 1" outer thickness. Of course the tread should fit snug under the riser and the ends snug to the skirt. The companion to the stair gauge is a spreader bar using a cam or threads to give the skirt a little nudge. A shooting board is also helpful.
I used the tread that we built the stairs with years ago, so it was an exact match but I do like the idea of a square face if I was rebuilding the stairs
the best video on this subject, thanks for sharing.
Thanks!!
Very nice bending method !!! I would start at the bottom... apply the above risers over the treads , hopefully it will make more of a seamless job.
Thanks! I installed the treads after the risers because walking up the steps you're staring at the risers and any slight gap would be noticeable. But that was just my logic and why I decided to go that route.
@DannyKissel Well, my thoughts are: Install the tread first ( no need to be precise on the back cut) then install the riser, pushing down as you go, so there shouldn't be any gap ( this will also help keep the tread in place in addition to any glue used ) I've learned over the years that " There's more than one way to do it right " So if it works for you... keep on !
@@rcline99 Your logic seems solid! I agree that there's more than one way for everything and when I did stairs in the past, each person I worked with did them both ways for different reasons. The one old fellow I worked with said quit overthinking and get them done lol.
Good work my friend - I have a 45angle so here I go to try it :)
Best of luck! Hope it turns out great!
El mejor video que he visto muy buena explicación
¡Gracias!
This is how I imagined it being done, good thing someone did it before I aquired materials!
Thanks ! Much appreciated!
Cool jigs my friend👍
Thanks!
Excellent Job and Information👍…
Thanks!
Very good how to video.
Thanks!
Great job!
Thanks!
Nice job buddy
Thanks 👍
Caulk and paint will make you the carpenter you aint on those risers.. lol Nice job on the bends. I'll definitely be selling that on my next stair job .
😂 thanks!
This is the best video on RUclips!
Wow! Thanks!!
Awesome!!!
I have this concrete stairs that have been a nightmare on what to do. A contractor ask me, do you have more planks? No problem. The other contractor, the pricy one. They just will paint the concrete stairs and be done. I do not have a table saw, nor I have nobody to supervise me. But yes have a heat gun. Thank you for your instructional video.
Hope the video helped!
Excellent.
Thanks!
nice job
Thanks! It’s still holding up
Good Job
Love the video and tutorials both the bend and the use of the tread jig. Wondering if your LVP is Stone polymer core (SPC) or Wood Polymer core (WPC)?
I have tried this on my SPC planks several times and it just won’t heat up enough to bend. Didn’t work for me
Helluvanidea....thanks for sharing.
thanks!
Best video in this I’ve seen, great work. What did you use for the risers?
Thank you! I used primed MDF for the risers
@@DannyKissel how thick was the MDF you used on the risers? how did you get them to stay in place while the adhesive dried?
I bought 1/4” primed one side mdf from Home Depot in a 4x8 sheet. Our stairs previously had 1/2” OSB installed, so I glued the MDF directly to the OSB. Then used nails at the top only so the bullnose would cover them.
Nice 4x4
Cool. Ty
Thanks!
I'm using Life Proof LVP from Home Depot. I tested this and it bent nicely, but I was wondering if I need to remove the rubber backing for the construction adhesive to work? How did you install the risers? Did you use pin nails or something to hold them in place while the adhesive dried? Maybe if installing the risers first, the treads and bullnose will keep it in place?
I used adhesive on the risers and a few nails only at the very top so the bullnose would cover them once finished. I did that a day prior to installing the treads so they were set up. I removed all the backing that was on the planks to make sure I had solid contact for the adhesive on the treads. I had to use an oscillating tool to remove it. (It didn’t want to come off) . Once I installed the treads I did my patented step/squish/wiggle, I left them set overnight to cure before walking on them. They get used daily and it’s been a few months. Everything seems solid. Hope this helps!
@@DannyKissel thanks for the reply and the helpful video!
Dan, great video! Your picture at the end shows the bottom of the stairs where there are 2 sides for bending. How did you do multiple sides and get the joints to look so seamless?
Thanks!! With the tried and true method of measure 967 times and cut 1009 😂. I laid the face stair down with a 45 degree cut and drew a line on the wooden tread then laid the side piece down and transferred the line. That got it close. I glued and taped them together and set them in place for a test fit and tweaked both straight cuts to meet the wall and trim. The filler board that goes behind the bullnose needed cut to 43.5 or something like that to make it fit where the 2 corners join and also had to shave the tongue of of the filler
ruclips.net/video/4wTjXYlbTOo/видео.html
I finally made a part to that shows the base stair.
I've watched many vids on doing this and like your jig that not only gets the left/right to trace but also the front/back to cut on. First vid I've seen with that "feature". Brilliant! Also I'll be copying the bending jig. Clever design. QQ - I guess since you are using the stair tread to get measurements left/right & front/back not as much concern if your bullnose bend isn't perfectly folded over (i.e. keeping the board that is folded over "even" with the bull nose part - like folding paper and making sure it's not "off" a little) - any concerns with that? I guess one could put lines on the bullnose bending jig to make sure you aligned "square" when folding over. Stairs look great. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the kind words! In the beginning of the video when I "clamp" the plank in the jig, I had notched the straight board so the planks all landed in the same spot before the bend process so I really didn't have to much of an issue with keeping them square before the heating process. At the 2:50 mark you can see the ledge that the planks set on. I tightened it to a "snug" fit, wiggled the plank to make sure it was setting on the lip, then tightened it down. Hope this explanation helps.
So what to you suggest how to cut the plank after the bull nose has been done. As I don’t have a sliding chop saw. And also when you got to the landing. And you did bull nose for the top step onto the landing. Did you leave the backing on the planks for the landing.
You may be able to use a hand saw or a table saw and a sliding jig to hold the correct angle if not cutting perfectly straight. But that’s really my only guess. I removed the backing on the landing area as well because I glued them down the same as the bull nose and wasn’t sure if the backing would adhere to the surface. Hope this helps
Can you do a video showing how to do this method but with an exposed side of step? I need to meet 2 nosings at a 45 but never works out right!
Great video. Thank you.
However, I'd like to know what saw did you use to make the cuts?
Thanks! I used a sliding chop saw. If you don’t have a slider you can cut each piece separately, but it may not line up perfectly. I laid the plank on a thick piece of wood so I could let the bull nose overhang on the frontside, so it was still able to lay flat. Hope this helps!
@@DannyKissel , excellent,. Thank you!.
What is the wear layer mil on this lvp? I’m wondering if I would be able to bend the 22 mil wear layer lvp that they sell
Ours was 7mm thick. I don't know the wear thickness off hand, but ours seemed thick
Hey Dan, I live in Delaware. I can bring you my flooring to bend if your for hire? I have 15 steps.
What tools did you use to cut the planks once you made them into Bull Noses?
I used a sliding chop saw and fine tooth blade. Ran it slow to avoid chipping but probably didn't have to.
Did you have any problem with the bent board joining the board behind once it was bent? I Did this to some 7.5 mm Coretec flooring and the ends of the bent boards seemed to have shortened when I bent the board putting a crown on the bend board joining seam, making it useless as the ends would not join the board behind it other than in the middle and one side
I had zero issues other then I set the clamp to close to the bend and it dented one while hot. Did you cut them to size before bending? I can see that causing a stretch or a twist issue. Or if you heated the whole plank. Mine were roughly the same thickness as yours and I heated just the bend area, maybe a 3” wide area. I was never near the joining tab. I held the gun close enough to touch it at times
Deflection... it's basically unavoidable but you can lessen it's severity.
As the material cools quickly and from the outside in, an internal tension forms resulting in deflection. To minimize deflection
1) Heat the material evenly and no more than is neccessary.
2) Slow the cooling process so the temperature at the edges and the temperature at the core can remain as close as possible while the internal heat is dissipating.
Diffusing heat in the core material is most important to avoid cracks, stress fracturing and performance failure.
how hard was it get the backing off of the planks before you bent them? I am currently doing the floors in my house and want to do the same
I’ve seen some at stores that just peeled off, but I had to use a oscillating tool to peel ours. I laid them on a clean smooth workbench and pushed them against a stop block. Took 4-5 min for each plank, using the widest blade I could find. I was afraid that they wouldn’t adhere as well with the backing.
@@DannyKissel thanks. Sometimes you just gotta do what you have to in order to get the job done.
that's some scary table saw move.
I'm just curious how the stairnose are holding up currently? I've bought the plastic stairnose but they don't match well and supposedly do not hold up well.
These look the exact same as the day I installed them. They are fully supported because ups used the same stair tread to bend the bull nose. They get used everyday due to the main entrance orphanage our house is on the lower level. Our cat managed to scratch one, but other then that, no issues.
Here's a follow up video with around a year of everyday use. ruclips.net/video/4wTjXYlbTOo/видео.html
How high did your heat gun go? I’ve seen this done a lot on thicker plank, but I’m using TrafficMaster 4.4 mm thick, do you think it would work the same?
I don't have any expierence with the TrafficMaster, but I'm guessing it would work the same with less heat time per plank. Each one of mine took 5-6 min to heat while moving the gun the entire time, at 5mm thick, so on a guess, I would say the 4.4 should heat up faster, but thats a guess. As for the heat gun mine was from Harbor Freight and had a max setting of 1100 degrees (F) and I ran it on max the entire time. Hope this helps
Do you have a video on how you cap the first 2 step sides? Best tutorial.
Sorry but I do not. I was trying to lay it out and completely forgot.
I used the tried and true method of measure 967 times and cut 1009 😂. I laid the face stair down with a 45 degree cut and drew a line on the wooden tread then laid the side piece down and transferred the line. That got it close. I glued and taped them together and set them in place for a test fit and tweaked both straight cuts to meet the wall and trim. The filler board that goes behind the bullnose needed cut to 43.5 or something like that to make it fit where the 2 corners join and also had to shave the tongue of of the filler
Read that still have no idea to do execute lol. I am a vision learner. Maybe a photo?
heres a follow up video that shows the bottom stair closer. Sorry it took so long. ruclips.net/video/4wTjXYlbTOo/видео.html
Did you remove the backing from all the planks or just for the nosing planks?
I removed the backing from all the planks. I was worried about adhesion and that the planks might not connect correctly if the backer was on one and not the other.
How’s it working after 4months ??? Is it still in place Trying to do this today !
Looks the exact same today as it does in the video! Couldn’t be happier with them. Now to figure out a way to have the Roomba vacuum clean them 😂. Hope my video helps!
How did you cut the tread and nosing together?
I drew a line then cut them separately.
Will this work for the cortec lvp.? I am working with a cork backing
I wouldn't see why it wouldn't. The LVP is basically the same material.
How long did it take with the heat gun?? About to do this but I thought about using a plumbing tourch since ive seen others do the same.
I ran the heat gun for roughly 5 min a plank. I tried the plumbers torch and didn't get a consistent heat and had it bubble a few small places and seemed like some areas didn't bend as nice. But yeah I've seen others have success with it.
Torch will ruin the core material. Both a heat gun and a touch cannot diffuse the tempurature enough to maintain structural integrity of the core. The damage is mainly hidden for months or if you're lucky, years... but them cracks a'comin.
@saltystairtreads it's been over a year and no issues yet. Stairs are the main entry to the house and get used multiple times a day. And they're supported by the wooden bull nose. I guess we'll see
So if you remove backing material from the planks it will lose the cushioning effect.
Sorry, I just saw this comment. The stairs are solid feeling. But I didn't see much of a difference between the stairs and the floor. I was more worried about the backing breaking down and the tread becoming loose
can you do this with 4 inch wide planks?
I would say yes but you might need to heat them a little more because you won't have as much leverage to push the long side over. But it should work fine. The heat in mine stayed in the area of the heat gun
Has anyone used this method or any method to bend the stone based rigid core LVP? For example Mohawk SolidTech?
Yeah, all the time.
ruclips.net/user/shortsQw7XCxT9Fus?feature=share
has anyone figured out how to cover a radius on bullnose tread?
I'm not sure what you mean. The video shows you how I bent the tread to cover the front bullnose radius, unless your talking about the front and side radius. I just 45'd mine and butted them together for the bottom 2 steps and used a color match caulking to fill minor imperfections.
DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE TREAD TOOL?
I based mine off of Shannon's from House Improvements
ruclips.net/video/gBSyFGsZfv4/видео.htmlsi=Kg7OMTb8ow-3fkoj
Just tried to make nosings with my vinyl plank. Didn't work :( I heated it for 10 mins. Plank thickness is just 6.5mm. It didn't want to bend at all. Even just a bit. I don't know what is the problem. Maybe my heatgun doesn't produce enough heat
I used a new heat gun from Harbor Freight. It was 1600 watts and I held it really close and every few passes tight against the wood and the plank to really focus the heat. Our plank was also 6.5mm
@@DannyKissel , I tried one more time after I removed the underlayment. I also held it very close and moved the heat gun much slower this time, so it heated each area better. It worked this time.
@@artemirinashevchenko7214 Glad it worked out!
I did my 6 steps with the same technique, except I didn’t cut the slot to the holding board, I cut two small pieces vinyl the same thickness, glued it to the large board for guidance.
Approximate heating time?
Thanks for the how to. 👍
I think it was like 4-5 mins per plank heat time. I held the gun close and moved it slow continuously. Used a harbor freight heat gun
@@DannyKissel I have a Wagner, but I've seen the HF.
Nice unit. Thanks. 👍
Does the rubber backing need to be removed?
I thought it would give me better adhesion to the wood, but as hard as mine was to remove, I might not have had to
@DannyKissel Thanks, I appreciate it. It is a really great idea, I've been wanting to do my stairs but the plastic bullnose had me worried. I'm definitely doing it your way👍
Did this process but wasted at least a whole box of planks on the heat melting the plank to the point where it rips, extremely frustrating.
That sucks. Not sure what went wrong. Maybe the heatgun didn't heat evenly enough. But thats a guess.
Hello guys I did half of my stair tread’s no problem but when I got new material I did everything the same but ofter heating it like for 10 minutes then I would start being it if would start to break from the side has any body run in to this problem or is it that lm doing something wrong thanks..
Is the material the same thickness and brand? If everything is the same, I would try to heat it longer and maybe hold the heatgun closer to the surface. But that is about all I can offer. Not sure why it worked on the older stuff and not the new
@@DannyKissel thanks for the quick response but yeah everything is the same lifeproof from Home Depot I literally try every you just say so I give up I was going crazy lol plus that material is not cheap but I’m still need 3 more so that was last yr and I’m getting ready to try it again will see how is goes this time..
@@user-tu6wu1ug1x I hope everything works out for you this time!
@@DannyKissel up date I just went to buy the same heat gun at harbor freight and it work out just perfect I went back to see your video and I noticed that this gun that you were using it doesn’t heat as high as the one I was using
this one from harbor freight
only heats up to 1000 deg the one I was using the max heat was at 1200 I think that was my problem I was getting the vinyl planks to hot ..
@@user-tu6wu1ug1x I’m glad it’s working out for you now!
What adhesive did you use?
I think it was Loctite brand general adhesive.
Looked like loctite, wanted to confirm. Just ordered 2 pallets of Lifeproof. I’m going to buy a single stair tread and make the jig you have.
Thanks for the video and the reply.
@Perry271 let me know how it goes. If you have any questions let me know. I'll help with what I can
@DannyKissel thank you for the reply. Again, I appreciate the time and effort putting the 2 videos together.
Wouldn’t it have been easier to use the template on the stair first and then bend the LVP
I thought there might be issues of stretching the vinyl side to side while bending or shrinkage or any combo of the 2 while the vinyl was soft. So I figured the best way to make sure there wasn't issues like that, was to cut it after bending.
when i bending it crack,
Maybe it needs more heat or more uniform heat.
Heat gun time ?
I thought I said but maybe not. 5-7 min per tread
@@DannyKissel how powerful is your heat gun, it takes forever on my end. I am thinking to use torch..
@@delltek102 it’s 1600 watts from Harbor Freight. Bauer I think. I held it close.
Men 100