Do it step by step, dont watch it countless times and think you will remember it. Thats a trap. Put your tools in hand and do each step and pause the video till you are ready for the next step. You will learn way faster.
Just finished doing my fork seals based off this simple instruction video. Definitely helped! Got it done in a few hrs, used tape instead of the bullet, and bought a seal driver from the local parts store, and used a adjustable wrench as the spacer. Ill be doing fork oil changes more often now, saving myself 200-300 dollars having a moto mechanic doing it. Thanks!
I just had a leak and needed to get it fixed. The shops here are expensive. I used you video to help guide me and I had no problems. Thank you for posting your video.
I guess you have to try it on your own sooner or later, this tutorial will make the job a lot less intimidating for the first try. Great video, I appreciate the effort it took to make it all happen.
Finally I find someone knowledgeable, clean and technical. Excellent !! I finally understand why the need to use a bullet or a bag with a masking tape. Thanks Scott !!!
Excellent video! I followed the directions and had no problems changing out the seal. I’m guessing this saved me around $250. One tip, if you get the Tusk cap wrench, the back end can be used as the damper rod holding tool.
Definitely subscribing bud! I’m new to learning all the mechanics. I just recently got my first bike. So Im watching to learn about all the parts and this guy is the first to actually take it apart, name the part, then explain what the part does. Thanks and I’ll be putting a thumbs up on all your videos!
Best is to loosen the fork cap before you take the forks out the triple-clamp. If your space is limited underneath the handlebars, take them off. Much easier. Those caps can be very tight sometimes.
I do it the same way in my shop . I loosen the caps before I pull the forks . Have never had to but you can lover the forks in the the triple clamps then snug the bolts up .
The best instructional video I've ever seen on forks. So many clever little tricks, like using the wheel bolt as a lever for example. So satisfying to watch a real pro!
Hey Scott, Clear, concise, and VERY helpful, thanks for taking time to help us ordinary riders out! There were several generations of KYB USD fork, and the internals are very different - one thing that might be helpful to know is whether this one you are working on is a 43mm, 46mm or 48mm (I'm quite certain it's not one of the early (and short lived) 41mm). Thank you!
Another thing that is even more helpful after seeing this tip. Just unloosen it while it is on your motorcycle. Not bad after suing you use the tree to hold it. That gave me the thought of just loosening it while it is still on the motorcycle to make it even a lot easier to loosen the top one and the bottom one.
Great instructions! Was thinking about trying to replace mine myself, until I saw the tools and material necessary to complete the job. Spend $150 on supplies and 4-6 hours of doing it myself, or spend $200 and drop them off at a shop...all about the convenience!
Fork seal driver alone is $50.... for a job you'll probably do once. Buy the entire kit and we hit that $150 real quick. Take the fork off of the bike and the shop only charges you .5 labor and parts (parts youre buying anyhow)
Hey man, thanks for the video, great job of explaining the process. I have two leaking fork seals and this is what i needed to prepare me for whats to come
Thank you so much, this tutorial gave me the insight and confidence to do this job, on a used DRZ400sm I just bought. 70$ in tools and seal kit, should arrive next week, thanks again
This video was very satisfying to watch for some reason. You have a very clean and organized way of working. I think that helped the job seem easy for most to try. I think I’ll price it out at my local shops first. If they’re too pricey, I’ll definitely be doing them myself. I have a feeling my friends will be asking me to help them rebuild their shocks soon. 🙄😅
Most shops are 2 hours of labor + overpriced parts. ~$180 + ~$70 is what I've heard. Make sure to confirm they will replace the bushings, washer, seal, clip and dust cover as well. Some shops are so corrupt they may even charge you for them but reuse anything that "isn't worn". While that is an acceptable procedure sometimes (as in this video), "worn" is a very subjective evaluation. In this video he justifies "worn" objectively by the copper coloring on the bushing, which is correct. Add to the high shop price... a questionable mechanic who may over-tighten things and it's a potentially tougher and more expensive job the next time.
I have watched several of your videos, and have found them to be a huge wealth of information. I greatly appreciate your sharing them. Thank you! Have you done a video on how to check and adjust the valves on a yz450f? Your instructions are very easy to follow, more than some others. I am a bit punchy doing it the first time. I have adjusted MANY valves on various SBC street motors and race motors and understand the process. Thanks again
Thanks i need to do mine, luckily a guy at work told me he would help me so thats good. Every one told me they suck except for him and now you and they dont look that bad.
Thank you, I wish you would do one for a sport bike . I have a Honda VFR, would it be similar to what you show here.Great video and a very clean workshop.
Scot makes it look pretty seamless. Its a bit of a nightmare if you dont have the right tools, plus not owning one of those sweet bar clamps is a downside.
those forks are the backwards ones lol on my bike the shiney part of the fork goes up instead of down, it really wasnt that hard of a job to do once i figured out exactly how to disassemble the damper rod so i could take the spring out to fill the oil back up. I had to unscrew the top cap from the rod then the big part that has the ajuster screw in it and then slide the washers spacers and spring out and fill er up
Thank you for this great video...everything looks very easy when you know how to do it, it's not your's first time :) and if you have a proper tools, just perfect, you can do it on your own...greetings from Serbia
awesome video, nice presentation. But i'm confused, the pro's don't show any flushing steps, do i really don't need to flush the fork tubes? If I don't need to, i'll be more than happy to do it. But yea i still need to change my oil seals.
When you drain the oil from the fork damper using that breather screw. Does that empty the actual fork damper oil contained inside there? If so, you didn't refill that at the end of the video..
Car Syndicate I'm pretty sure mine drained completely and after filling it back up there was no rebound, all spring. I don't know why he says to hang it and drain it.
owners manual has damper oil amount and fork leg oil amount separate i added 335 cm3 as fork leg amount but did not add for damper i did not see you do that either but in video i took air bleed crew out like you did and pumped oil out of damper did i do something wrong
Great video, I have just one question. Is there a rule of thumb for the amount of oil you have to put in the forks?. I have a 1997 Honda Nx 350 and I am not sure the amount of oil to put in. Thank you for your help.
im confused about 1 thing. on the cfr250r forks i am changing the seals on, there is a large washer on one of the dampener and not the other. its on the dampener flush up to the downside end of the white cone thing. almost like the spring rides against it. i cannot find this on any parts diagram so im wondering if it is supposed to go there?
Thanks for the video! I have a question though, I followed all steps, and when I'm done and have the fork in one piece again, I clearly hear the oil running inside the fork when turning it upside down... Did I do something wrong? I did not open and change the oil in the upper chamber @ 14:30 in. So, the oil in the outer tube is full of air, why?
The fork oil only takes up a portion of the column in the outer tube, this is normal. It allows the fork to have various levels of dampening at different levels of the stroke.
Mate., I have a question. I own a 2005 YZ125 and looking into upgrading the front forks., a popular mod for those with the 2005's. My question is can't I just slam the cartridge from a YZ250F into the YZ125 tubes?
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I was about to pay the dealer almost $250 to do this.. Instead I bought the tools, seals and oil for $60. Thank you!
I just did the same thing😬
Can already tell I'm gonna watch the video like 30+ times when I do this to my yz80
Do it step by step, dont watch it countless times and think you will remember it. Thats a trap. Put your tools in hand and do each step and pause the video till you are ready for the next step. You will learn way faster.
put the video in slow motion g
Best fork seal video on the internet. Even after all of these years. Great job and thank you for making it!!
Just finished doing my fork seals based off this simple instruction video. Definitely helped! Got it done in a few hrs, used tape instead of the bullet, and bought a seal driver from the local parts store, and used a adjustable wrench as the spacer. Ill be doing fork oil changes more often now, saving myself 200-300 dollars having a moto mechanic doing it. Thanks!
Every time i do fork seals i come back and watch this video. So straight forward and easy to understand
This dude is the man....anyone should feel privileged to ride a bike he's worked on.
I just had a leak and needed to get it fixed. The shops here are expensive. I used you video to help guide me and I had no problems. Thank you for posting your video.
Adjustable wrench works well in a pinch for the "damper rod holding tool"
Yeah I thought the same for the "fork cap tool" all those unnecessary gimmick tools are just a waste of money
While I do agree, I do find it very nice to have a specific tool for the job.
It looks like a piece of plastic he cut himself.
why didn't i think of that, thank you!
Top tip
I guess you have to try it on your own sooner or later, this tutorial will make the job a lot less intimidating for the first try. Great video, I appreciate the effort it took to make it all happen.
Finally I find someone knowledgeable, clean and technical. Excellent !!
I finally understand why the need to use a bullet or a bag with a masking tape.
Thanks Scott !!!
Every time I do fork seals I come back to this vid as a refresher.
Thanks for the tip of heating the fork leg to make it easier to pop out the oil seal! You the man!
I refer to this video every time I change fork seals. By far, the best of RUclips!! Thank you for sharing it.
Excellent video! I followed the directions and had no problems changing out the seal. I’m guessing this saved me around $250. One tip, if you get the Tusk cap wrench, the back end can be used as the damper rod holding tool.
Definitely subscribing bud! I’m new to learning all the mechanics. I just recently got my first bike. So Im watching to learn about all the parts and this guy is the first to actually take it apart, name the part, then explain what the part does. Thanks and I’ll be putting a thumbs up on all your videos!
Best is to loosen the fork cap before you take the forks out the triple-clamp. If your space is limited underneath the handlebars, take them off. Much easier. Those caps can be very tight sometimes.
I do it the same way in my shop . I loosen the caps before I pull the forks . Have never had to but you can lover the forks in the the triple clamps then snug the bolts up .
Corrie Theron nice kdx😉
Loosen the pinch bolts first at the top prior to loosening the top cap
The best KYB fork seal/oil change video I've seen so far. Excellent work Dirt Rider Magazine!
The best instructional video I've ever seen on forks. So many clever little tricks, like using the wheel bolt as a lever for example. So satisfying to watch a real pro!
Very fine guide, thank you.
Also you're working so clean, well done.
Hey Scott,
Clear, concise, and VERY helpful, thanks for taking time to help us ordinary riders out! There were several generations of KYB USD fork, and the internals are very different - one thing that might be helpful to know is whether this one you are working on is a 43mm, 46mm or 48mm (I'm quite certain it's not one of the early (and short lived) 41mm). Thank you!
I’ve never seen anyone put their tree on it to hold it. That is very smart and thank you for this tip, that’s really intuitive.
Thanks,
Scotty B
Another thing that is even more helpful after seeing this tip. Just unloosen it while it is on your motorcycle. Not bad after suing you use the tree to hold it. That gave me the thought of just loosening it while it is still on the motorcycle to make it even a lot easier to loosen the top one and the bottom one.
Great instructions! Was thinking about trying to replace mine myself, until I saw the tools and material necessary to complete the job. Spend $150 on supplies and 4-6 hours of doing it myself, or spend $200 and drop them off at a shop...all about the convenience!
Since shen was a screwdriver and sockets $150?
You have to buy the seal kit, fork wrench, fork oil etc
Fork seal driver alone is $50.... for a job you'll probably do once. Buy the entire kit and we hit that $150 real quick.
Take the fork off of the bike and the shop only charges you .5 labor and parts (parts youre buying anyhow)
All depends on how often you need new seals
Hey man, thanks for the video, great job of explaining the process. I have two leaking fork seals and this is what i needed to prepare me for whats to come
This was an awesome video. Gave me the confidence to change my own fork seals. Also, I love your garage man!
Thank you so much, this tutorial gave me the insight and confidence to do this job, on a used DRZ400sm I just bought. 70$ in tools and seal kit, should arrive next week, thanks again
This video was very satisfying to watch for some reason. You have a very clean and organized way of working. I think that helped the job seem easy for most to try. I think I’ll price it out at my local shops first. If they’re too pricey, I’ll definitely be doing them myself.
I have a feeling my friends will be asking me to help them rebuild their shocks soon. 🙄😅
Most shops are 2 hours of labor + overpriced parts. ~$180 + ~$70 is what I've heard.
Make sure to confirm they will replace the bushings, washer, seal, clip and dust cover as well. Some shops are so corrupt they may even charge you for them but reuse anything that "isn't worn". While that is an acceptable procedure sometimes (as in this video), "worn" is a very subjective evaluation. In this video he justifies "worn" objectively by the copper coloring on the bushing, which is correct.
Add to the high shop price... a questionable mechanic who may over-tighten things and it's a potentially tougher and more expensive job the next time.
How could anybody give this a Thumbs Down? he did this Perfectly
Returning to this video again to do my fork seals, thank you!
Thanks a mil, reading the manual is one thing but having it shown to you is awesome. Great vid cheers.
Just did this on my yz250f 08 and followed this video, it was really not that bad, quite fun actually!
Thanks for the video!
Nice job, thanks. Wish my shop was that clean and nice.
Thanks buddy you explained it well and got my first seals done myself. Legend
Excellent video. Our first build with the new dual chamber type system and your instruction was very helpful. Thank you,
I have watched several of your videos, and have found them to be a huge wealth of information. I greatly appreciate your sharing them. Thank you!
Have you done a video on how to check and adjust the valves on a yz450f? Your instructions are very easy to follow, more than some others. I am a bit punchy doing it the first time. I have adjusted MANY valves on various SBC street motors and race motors and understand the process. Thanks again
Best video iv'e seen on fork seal replacement. Great job!
it’s super easy!
>goes into a mechanical puzzle with dozens of pieces
thank you! I've never done it before but just did by following the video.
Excellent video, many thanks. Nice tidy workshop as well..
I understand very well.
Thank you very much! 🏁
Thanks for the video, did the fork seals on my 250 sxf yesterday took longer than expected but still easy just keep it clean.
The most useful clip I've viewed on the subject.👍
Great DIY vid thanks , I now have the confidence to have a go myself
Excellent video.thank you for the great breakdown and rebuild procedure.
Very thorough ... You made it sound so easy ..I will be doing this....thanks man
Great video just done my 2010 yz450f made the hole job so much easier thanks so much.
I really wanted him to compress it on the ground when he was done lol
Thanks i need to do mine, luckily a guy at work told me he would help me so thats good. Every one told me they suck except for him and now you and they dont look that bad.
This is a very helpful video, thank you for posting this
Thank you! I have the service manual but your video was much more helpful!
Thank you, I wish you would do one for a sport bike . I have a Honda VFR, would it be similar to what you show here.Great video and a very clean workshop.
One of the best How To videos I've seen in a long time
Hi Steve watched your DIY 10X 4 my CRF250R 2017 thanks a bunch!!! Johnny
Scot makes it look pretty seamless. Its a bit of a nightmare if you dont have the right tools, plus not owning one of those sweet bar clamps is a downside.
those forks are the backwards ones lol on my bike the shiney part of the fork goes up instead of down, it really wasnt that hard of a job to do once i figured out exactly how to disassemble the damper rod so i could take the spring out to fill the oil back up. I had to unscrew the top cap from the rod then the big part that has the ajuster screw in it and then slide the washers spacers and spring out and fill er up
***** Traditional (right side up) forks are much easier to work on that USD forks like the ones in the video.
It's not that bad once you get into it. I had the tools and this video and was able to do it
Went to do this to my son's 16 kx 85 ...of course not a nut on the bottom..A fricking huge 14 mm hex wrench is needed!
Use an "old triple clamp" to help remove the cap? Where do I obtain that? Why not use the existing triple clamp while the fork is still on the bike?
Thank you for this great video...everything looks very easy when you know how to do it, it's not your's first time :) and if you have a proper tools, just perfect, you can do it on your own...greetings from Serbia
I noticed some videos show pumping or bleeding the forks. Is it not required?
awesome video, nice presentation. But i'm confused, the pro's don't show any flushing steps, do i really don't need to flush the fork tubes? If I don't need to, i'll be more than happy to do it. But yea i still need to change my oil seals.
When you drain the oil from the fork damper using that breather screw. Does that empty the actual fork damper oil contained inside there? If so, you didn't refill that at the end of the video..
Car Syndicate I'm pretty sure mine drained completely and after filling it back up there was no rebound, all spring. I don't know why he says to hang it and drain it.
Great demo many thanks!
Brake cleaner makes the rubber from the seals weak. Refrain from spraying it on rubber
Awesome content! Thank you.
I used gas, ended up burning down my brothers house..Thanks for the video!
I followed this video to a tee and it was simple Great Video!
When you took the bleeder screw out doess that drain the inner chamber if it does do you not have refill it before assembly of fork
Great video! Only thing I'd be hesitant to do is use 400 grit on a polished tube??
Very perfect teaching.
Do you have to bleed the cartridges every service or will it he fine to just do seals ?
owners manual has damper oil amount and fork leg oil amount separate i added 335 cm3 as fork leg amount but did not add for damper i did not see you do that either but in video i took air bleed crew out like you did and pumped oil out of damper did i do something wrong
does this work with air forks??
Great instructional video! This will help me a lot.
What about the fluid you left inside the cartridge?
Excellent vid mate .Thank you
Could you do a video of someone changing fork seals on Cone Valve forks? I can't find a single video on the internet
Great video, I have just one question. Is there a rule of thumb for the amount of oil you have to put in the forks?. I have a 1997 Honda Nx 350 and I am not sure the amount of oil to put in. Thank you for your help.
Is the volume of oil still in the cartridge not enough to include in your calculations for how much oil to put back in?
This is a great video, and it was really in-depth
Just fill with fluid and done or is there a bleeding procedure?
So I've been watching some videos on this, would I not need a fork spring compressor? Depends on fork? I got a versys 650.
how to find the year of manufacturing a motorcycle with the chassis series?
Excellent video!! Thanx4sharing, thanx4caring.
im confused about 1 thing. on the cfr250r forks i am changing the seals on, there is a large washer on one of the dampener and not the other. its on the dampener flush up to the downside end of the white cone thing. almost like the spring rides against it. i cannot find this on any parts diagram so im wondering if it is supposed to go there?
The clamp on table what is the name n where can I purchase. Thx
Man. Thank you. I have a 2009 YZ450F. Great video
How do i change my compression if there is no compression screw at the top?
Why when I took the bleed screw out, way more oil came out and now my dampening rod wants to stay in instead of pushing out........
Same
what's the brand of oil measuring cup is he using?
You need to do one for a rear shock now
Wow! An expert at work! That is made to look very easy!
Will my WP 48mm Open Chamber Forks be similar?
Yoi mentioned the model and brand. How about the year model?
Great video thanks only 1 thing had me thinking, 400 grit to dress the hard chrome? Bit harsh isnt it?
Thanks for the video! I have a question though, I followed all steps, and when I'm done and have the fork in one piece again, I clearly hear the oil running inside the fork when turning it upside down... Did I do something wrong? I did not open and change the oil in the upper chamber @ 14:30 in. So, the oil in the outer tube is full of air, why?
The fork oil only takes up a portion of the column in the outer tube, this is normal.
It allows the fork to have various levels of dampening at different levels of the stroke.
Because my rebound and compression screws don't move in clicks they move like regular screws...?
I do not have inverted shocks... will that work the same for me?
Mate., I have a question. I own a 2005 YZ125 and looking into upgrading the front forks., a popular mod for those with the 2005's. My question is can't I just slam the cartridge from a YZ250F into the YZ125 tubes?
Awesome video! Very helpful and takes the fear out of doing it yourself.
How do you know when the seal is driven in all the way? Does it make a different sound/feel as driving in other general oil seals?