Can you address how you store the caulking tubes or do they just harden and get tossed? Crazy hard to get any Total Boat epoxy here on the island of Kauai. They don’t ship here but I’ll have to bring some back next time we fly to the mainland and back.
AND I am using LePage-PL construction grade ( wet both surfaces) and it is very simple using glue in a tube ( 295ml ) for non structural boat parts. Using epoxy in a tube sounds perfect.
Hi The epoxy in the tube is good idea. Two questions: How many times can you use the tube? and over what the period? The other question is cost; since it is approx twice as expensive compared bottle epoxy is there a real time saving? I can see a time saving. Thoughts
You can use the tube as many times as you like but you must replace the mixing wand each time you exceed the typical catalyst kick off window. I think you get about a 50'-60' 1/8” bead per cartridge. Costs about $30. So it’s more about speed if time is money. It’s about convenience. Pop the cap and your laying beads in a minute rather than fussing around with piping bags etc. if you need volume and economy, you can go with a standard fillable caulking tube, but use slow hardener and work fast my friend. Those will start smoking in no time. Now I have used the construction adhesives for my boat in a weekend courses but those joints are backed up with nails and screws. It's not bad for a fast skinning fine fillet too, but for looks rather than structure.
Man, watching through this series has me questioning whether or not I wanna go with a glued lapstrake boat for my first build. I want to do a traditional New England sailing dingy or dory and was planning to do the oak and cedar, carvel planked Goeller 12 footer, but now I'm thinking this might be the better route to start out with. Thoughts?
I’m a huge fan of traditional construction and if you already have some refined woodworking hand skills, you could probably get through those choices of project without too much trouble. But….if you are new to woodworking or would consider your skills around average for carpentry then I think glued construction is a better choice unless you choose a simpler flat bottomed traditional design. The skills you develop doing glued lapstrake will put you in a much better position for trying traditional lapstrake. That said, I take rank beginners with virtually no woodworking experience and get them through a traditional lapstrake build in ten days. But there’s a whole lot of granular instruction that happens along the way and some need more oversight than others. Here’s my personal opinion..give me a pile of lumber and no instructions about what to build and I will very likely build you a traditional flat bottom skiff, Asian sampan or simple Scandinavian style lapstrake pram. The simple boats are the most enjoyable to build. There are a ton of little details you can fuss with to elevate the design without a challenging hull shape. But if you want the lightest weight and easiest to maintain with film finishes boat, it will be a glued lapstrake. Hope that helps.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thanks for the detailed reply, Mark! I have a good amount of general household carpentry experience as well as wood carving, shaping, inletting and finishing as it relates to firearm stocks. So as it pertains to a carvel or traditional lapstrake boat I have no doubts in my ability to complete the project, although things like lofting and spiling are a bit off the reservation as far as anything I've done. There's also materials. Good white oak and cedar are a bit hard to come by and expensive compared to plywood, fiberglass and epoxy, but again, those are far less traditional. I've got plenty of time to do the research and decide. I don't even have the "temporary" garage structure I'll be building in yet.
Well if I were in your shoes, I would build a GLP (glue-lap-ply) hull and go traditional on all the trimming out. You can use traditional lapstrake techniques with plywood planking. We had a load of beach lifeboats around here that were just that. Pre epoxy. They were built in the 50’s or 60’s. But GLP allows you to toss the frames if you want or drastically reduce them and it makes for a 100% waterproof hull without using fibreglass. Almost zero stock preparation too so. Especially if you are in a borrowed space, you'll me mobile faster. Don’t let lofting and spilling scare you off. You can probably avoid the former and you can learn the latter in an hour. I suggest using some plans from Iain Oughtred. He has full size mould or frame patterns that you can trust and he includes plenty of traditional details. Save the traditional planking for your second boat. You'll be happy you did.
Nice to see the fitting of the planks. Just had a woodenboatcourse of a traditional style planked boat. We did it a bit different and nice to see the differences and to pick upmsome tricks here and there. We faired the stern bevel of the planks off the boat. 24:00
Remember that there are no fixed ways of doing anything. It's all open to inovation. I think it's a good idea to try different approaches and eventually you'll develop your own legitimate reasons for choosing one over the other. Whenever I see someone doing something one way, I always question why they have chosen that path. In doing so you reveal the hidden variables.
@ 3:25, it's hard to believe you haven't gotten an anti-gravity machine yet. Should definitely be your next purchase. Totally changed my life... would recommend 100%
@@NomadboatbuildingThey don't ship to Canada, I checked for you. Do you know anything about motorcycle trials riders? They do a deal with the devil for a gravity exemption rendering them exempt from said gravity. I think there's some paperwork involved. Any Toni Bao video will illustrate the exemption for you.
It'd be interesting if you had a pedometer or I guess now a Fitbit (if it had the resolution) to track your mileage in a day. You certainly put some in on this one. Lots of laps back and forth.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I happened to see a IG post from a woman that put a FitBit on her bulldog, so apparently they have the resolution. He went a grand total of 33 steps all day when she was at work.
As far as a boatwright shilling for a company, you could go far worse than a supplier to the trade... As far as I've seen TotalBoat is legit and has decent products. We get a discount on stuff we need, he gets a cut and the company makes money. That's capitalism, baby.
Valeu!
Thank you so much Andreatta!
Can you address how you store the caulking tubes or do they just harden and get tossed? Crazy hard to get any Total Boat epoxy here on the island of Kauai. They don’t ship here but I’ll have to bring some back next time we fly to the mainland and back.
The mixing nozzle gets tossed out but the tubes are capped off so that they won’t harden. You have to be a little careful when re-capping them.
That’s a shipwrights cocktail
“A long slow rebate, with a reversing bevel” 🍸🍸🍸❤
Haha. Perfect!
Always a pleasure watching you at work!
Well it was nice to see you making a fraction of the mess I do with epoxy 🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
I've made my messes too. You'll notice some ugly smears on the transom where I couldn't clean up some squeeze out as I normally like to.
I had forgotten about your brush technique for the caulking gun. Gonna have to try that on my next clinker.
AND I am using LePage-PL construction grade ( wet both surfaces) and it is very simple using glue in a tube ( 295ml ) for non structural boat parts. Using epoxy in a tube sounds perfect.
@13:47 explaining rabbit attitudes being hard to judge.
ruclips.net/video/XcxKIJTb3Hg/видео.html
You should suggest that TotalBoat come out with brush or toothed tips. Great idea.
Mark… you are a bit of a mad genius! Ya gotta love following your channel. 🇨🇦
Thanks Bill. Question for you…if I were to branch out the content into other non-boatbuilding subject areas, should I create a separate channel?
Tricky planks 😂 with fudge ❤
Didn’t want to catch up on this after just finding the channel, but I couldn’t stop watching!
I’ll have pop over to the Bouchie Dory.
Well there goes your weekends and evenings for a while. Hope it proves worthwhile to you.
Hi The epoxy in the tube is good idea. Two questions: How many times can you use the tube? and over what the period?
The other question is cost; since it is approx twice as expensive compared bottle epoxy is there a real time saving?
I can see a time saving. Thoughts
You can use the tube as many times as you like but you must replace the mixing wand each time you exceed the typical catalyst kick off window. I think you get about a 50'-60' 1/8” bead per cartridge. Costs about $30. So it’s more about speed if time is money. It’s about convenience. Pop the cap and your laying beads in a minute rather than fussing around with piping bags etc. if you need volume and economy, you can go with a standard fillable caulking tube, but use slow hardener and work fast my friend. Those will start smoking in no time.
Now I have used the construction adhesives for my boat in a weekend courses but those joints are backed up with nails and screws. It's not bad for a fast skinning fine fillet too, but for looks rather than structure.
"What I should watch next" far too often, is something I already watched - in this case, it was the mentoring video...
Thanks for the info.
Mark, that's a cool idea, and with a little refinement, it might just be a great invention.
I thinks so too. Pretty much the first time I can see a use for 3D printer around the shop.
👍
Man, watching through this series has me questioning whether or not I wanna go with a glued lapstrake boat for my first build. I want to do a traditional New England sailing dingy or dory and was planning to do the oak and cedar, carvel planked Goeller 12 footer, but now I'm thinking this might be the better route to start out with. Thoughts?
I’m a huge fan of traditional construction and if you already have some refined woodworking hand skills, you could probably get through those choices of project without too much trouble. But….if you are new to woodworking or would consider your skills around average for carpentry then I think glued construction is a better choice unless you choose a simpler flat bottomed traditional design. The skills you develop doing glued lapstrake will put you in a much better position for trying traditional lapstrake. That said, I take rank beginners with virtually no woodworking experience and get them through a traditional lapstrake build in ten days. But there’s a whole lot of granular instruction that happens along the way and some need more oversight than others.
Here’s my personal opinion..give me a pile of lumber and no instructions about what to build and I will very likely build you a traditional flat bottom skiff, Asian sampan or simple Scandinavian style lapstrake pram. The simple boats are the most enjoyable to build. There are a ton of little details you can fuss with to elevate the design without a challenging hull shape. But if you want the lightest weight and easiest to maintain with film finishes boat, it will be a glued lapstrake. Hope that helps.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thanks for the detailed reply, Mark! I have a good amount of general household carpentry experience as well as wood carving, shaping, inletting and finishing as it relates to firearm stocks. So as it pertains to a carvel or traditional lapstrake boat I have no doubts in my ability to complete the project, although things like lofting and spiling are a bit off the reservation as far as anything I've done. There's also materials. Good white oak and cedar are a bit hard to come by and expensive compared to plywood, fiberglass and epoxy, but again, those are far less traditional. I've got plenty of time to do the research and decide. I don't even have the "temporary" garage structure I'll be building in yet.
Well if I were in your shoes, I would build a GLP (glue-lap-ply) hull and go traditional on all the trimming out. You can use traditional lapstrake techniques with plywood planking. We had a load of beach lifeboats around here that were just that. Pre epoxy. They were built in the 50’s or 60’s. But GLP allows you to toss the frames if you want or drastically reduce them and it makes for a 100% waterproof hull without using fibreglass. Almost zero stock preparation too so. Especially if you are in a borrowed space, you'll me mobile faster. Don’t let lofting and spilling scare you off. You can probably avoid the former and you can learn the latter in an hour. I suggest using some plans from Iain Oughtred. He has full size mould or frame patterns that you can trust and he includes plenty of traditional details. Save the traditional planking for your second boat. You'll be happy you did.
I was wondering if you would make a video showing your sharpening routine?
I plan on doing that fairly soon. There is an old one on the channel if you go digging around.
ruclips.net/video/k0Oe9r5Y7N0/видео.html - Here you go. It's a pretty old video and not so very good but it explains my basic principals.
Such a smart idea adding the brush to the thixo tip!
Get the folks in product development onto that.
Thanks
Super thanks right back at you Brian!
Valeu!
Super thanks to you too Andreatta!
Nice to see the fitting of the planks. Just had a woodenboatcourse of a traditional style planked boat. We did it a bit different and nice to see the differences and to pick upmsome tricks here and there. We faired the stern bevel of the planks off the boat. 24:00
Remember that there are no fixed ways of doing anything. It's all open to inovation. I think it's a good idea to try different approaches and eventually you'll develop your own legitimate reasons for choosing one over the other. Whenever I see someone doing something one way, I always question why they have chosen that path. In doing so you reveal the hidden variables.
@ 3:25, it's hard to believe you haven't gotten an anti-gravity machine yet. Should definitely be your next purchase. Totally changed my life... would recommend 100%
Hook me up with your supplier Bob.
@@NomadboatbuildingThey don't ship to Canada, I checked for you.
Do you know anything about motorcycle trials riders? They do a deal with the devil for a gravity exemption rendering them exempt from said gravity. I think there's some paperwork involved. Any Toni Bao video will illustrate the exemption for you.
It'd be interesting if you had a pedometer or I guess now a Fitbit (if it had the resolution) to track your mileage in a day. You certainly put some in on this one. Lots of laps back and forth.
Oh man, yes. It’s at least a 30 foot trip to retrieve anything on the other side of the boat.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I happened to see a IG post from a woman that put a FitBit on her bulldog, so apparently they have the resolution. He went a grand total of 33 steps all day when she was at work.
Nooooooo ! Not another shill for the completely annoying epoxy company.
Just wait for his AG 1 spot. It's fantastic.....
Guys gotta make a living.
As far as a boatwright shilling for a company, you could go far worse than a supplier to the trade... As far as I've seen TotalBoat is legit and has decent products. We get a discount on stuff we need, he gets a cut and the company makes money. That's capitalism, baby.
@@Nomadboatbuilding yeah , I get it . At least you changed your ht back.
@@Pocketfarmer1 yup. That thing is never leaving the shop on my head.