Traffic film SHOOTOUT - RAGE / ROAD WARRIOR / Purple Power V&B
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Here I show you three different products that can be used to remove traffic film you can put all of them in a spray bottle / bucket/ foam cannon / pressure washer ( in the soap dispenser) . They all do a decent job of removing basic dirt and grime off of all surfaces but here I wanted to compare the three of them together to show just how effective they are with absolutely no agitation in removing traffic film.
To solve tape issues, stick and pull it to your clothes multiple times to get the fibers on it, then stick to paint 👍
OK, thanks. Also Rage changed it's name to Dark Fury since I shot this video.
The foam cannon treatment is meant to pull off the basic dirt and more importantly provide lube for the agitation step. There is still a place for pretreatment of road film using dark fury/road warrior but in your case a good foam cannon treatment on top of your apc application would have helped to pull of the grass off the paint. At the end of the day you will still have to hand wash to remove everything from a car that dirty
@JC-to9ts True. I seldom use a foam cannon, except for seriously filthy vehicles. I just wanted to show some side by side comparisons of these products. Thanks for your comment 👍
Nice review. I am about to try Koch Chemie Super Foam Sfn. Very concentrated, they recommend 100:1 or 50:1 (heavy gunk or for my New England winters) for sprayers or 10:1 or 5:1 in a cannon.
When I'm doing a strip wash, I've been adding 3 oz of Road Warrior by Superior Products per 5 gallon bucket along with soap. It adds a nice boost for removing traffic film. Pure Rinseless by Feynlab is becoming another of my favorites.
Pretty darn good test. Agitation would have certainly made a difference, as they are all designed to have some hand wiping applied. I am a fan of Superior products for their efficacy and affordability.
I'm a fan of all of these products, they all have a place in my arsenal. I've really been liking Feynlab Pure rinseless. It is a soap-based rinseless product same delusion as ONR but I feel that it has better lubricity and more cleaning power. I think I'll make a video on that.
So if you use automotive grade 3M tape, it’s yellow or green. It will withstand solvent and water better than the blue stuff you will not have the blue stuff transferred to the paint.
Yes I use the green 3M for all paint correction jobs
Nice video but I think using a pressure washer would be more realistic since most people using this product don’t wash their car with the hose anymore lol but good video regardless
Really was hoping to see more from the chemicals. Good test either way.
This was quite awhile ago, but as I remember it has shaped my thoughts on the need for pretreating surface film. Still think it's a good idea just to soften up dirt, so it is less likely to scratch. Foam guns, on a dry car ( no prefince ) have been demonstrated by Forensic Detailing YT channel to help remove traffic film. Look it up, came out on Jon's channel about a month ago.
truth, a chemical prewash seems like the way to go. Just trying to find the right methods/chems sadly there’s more products than knowledge in the world of yt detailers. I’m drawn to the chemX stars and stripes idea where a strong acid is applied first then a high ph foam is used in rapid succession to neutralize which gets the benefits from acid without so much risk.
yours is one of the better videos i’ve found.
@@marambula thanks I'm glad you found some value in my generally poorly filmed and barely edited videos. Sometimes it's just finding the right combination in the right situation. But knowing chemistry definitely helps quite a lot as I had two years of it in college. You just have to be careful with the really high and really low PH values on chemicals as they can be detrimental to the long-term health of plastics and rubber seals. As long as you do everything quickly and out of the sun you're generally pretty good to go just lots of renting and washing following the treatments
your videos demonstrate the thought process which is a valuable way to learn. Too many videos on this site appear to be commercials.
Anyways a comparison test is always the best, and Ideally there are minimal edits once the process has begun. Your videos are a breath of fresh air amongst shorter high quality edited shills. Especially the personal water craft ones where you had high hopes but reported real world results from two products that failed to remove mold stains. After all I’m not trying to get scammed... just trying to learn something useful. Thank you
@@marambula thanks for your input and also the kind words. Funny thing about the jet ski mold seats. He was selling them a couple weeks later and wanted me to just come and freshen them up before they got picked up from the dealership where he was buying his two new better more powerful jet skis. I wasn't really satisfied after I got finished but after the jet skis sat in the Sun I guess the mold was killed and the stains were very much more improved. I should probably go back and pin that in the description. Anyway I just like sharing my experiences, documenting my work and I do use it to refer potential clients to and also I have kind of a library of sorts on different topics that while I'm on detailing forums I can share with that person who's having a problem to help them see what I've gone through so it helps with that. Amazingly some people look for detailers on RUclips and because I always attached different cities in the location section it actually has gotten me quite a bit of business having a RUclips channel. Anyway have a great day thanks for being part of my channel and best of luck to you in your detailing education endeavors.
ZEP touchless truck and trailer wash. pH 13 or 14. I use it undiluted in the foam cannon. You can see the dirt rolling off in the foam. You have to keep it wet or it will leave a film.
I will check it out. I've been doing more RVs and trailers lately.
@@deluxevehicledetailingandp904 I can't find it I went everywhere where did you pick it up thank you
@@leardi58 I'm comparing 3 products here, which one are you referring to ?
Are all these safe to work under the sun and let them dwell ? Are they safe for rubber and exterior parts ? What dilutions are you using for all the products ? Thank you in advance
I would NOT recommend using any product in direct sun, you don't want them to dry onto the paint. This was way early in the AM, so the surface was not hot. I've used them all on glass and plastics and so no harm. I'm still using Dark Fury as a pretreat on paint, especially on the fronts of cars that have a lot of bugs, really breaks them down and when combined with a bug scrubber pad does a great job. I also scrub the windshield and quickly rinse off. All products were at 4:1 ratio. ( 1 part product, 4 parts water )
Have you tried super clean?
I have not used Superclean in this manner, although I do love the product and my next video release will actually be comparing Superclean All-Wheel Cleaner with Superclean FOAMING Cleaner. I do know that some people use all-purpose cleaners or even degreasers on the surface of their vehicles as a pre-cleaner . Superclean is I believe 3.7 pH which is very harsh and considering it would be getting into the body panel seems as well as door panels rubber trim on windows and plastic parts along with lights I've never considered spraying down a whole car with Superclean.
Do you have long-term experience with this and what is your dilution ratio and application method ? I am always very interested in learning from others as well as sharing my knowledge and I appreciate you being part of the channel. Sorry it took me a few days to respond , but I actually have been crazy busy with detailing motorcycles, boats, kayaks and cars last couple weeks .