Thanks man, this worked like a charm, didn't even take me 30 seconds. I had spent nearly an hour beating it till it bent beforehand and I still couldn't get it out. Cheers mate.
I have the same problem, I guess I didn't do it long enough, so I'm going to do it again. You're really good at making these videos, you need to keep doing them. I make them for my channel and I'm making around $300.00 a month. My videos have paid for every single vehicle I've done including two transmissions. Keep up the good work. I'll probably make one doing mine again and let people know you helped me by letting me know to do it longer than I thought I needed to, at least 5 minutes. Thanks for sharing your cool & useful video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You are correct. You might need to heat it up for longer than you think. Mine wouldn't budge. I tried everything. I even tried heating the mount. It still wouldn't budge. I finally heated it for a few minutes instead of just until it got hot. I used a breaker bar on the pin and kept heating it until it moved. Eventually, I had success. Thank you for the video and the advice. Now I should only have to replace the pins and boots, instead of the whole caliper (the mount alone isn't available around here).
@@joesmith6524 Excellent idea. A new bracket is about $30 (12 Fusion) and a Torch kit is about the same. Couldn't find my torch so I will try the stove.
South Main Auto channel finishes the job with a drill bit to clean the hole out. Simply 4 or so turns cleans it out, so its loosey-goosey again, instead of crusty-rusty.
You mean like a cooking/culinary butane "torch"? I don't think a simple lighter would get hot enough with enough flame volume long enough to do anything to the bracket...
Thanks for the video, I used a heat gun to warm the caliper. The heat liquefied the grease and the pin slipped out. The heat required was considerably less that heat generated in calipers during normal breaking.
You have to take your brake / caliper / etc...., out every year. This will save a lot of headaches and it will give you a chance to exam everything for safety. Take ONE Saturday a year and you will be good for a long time.
I don't have a torch to heat up rusty bolts. If I have the time and another ride I do this first, before breaking anything: 2 to 3 times a day, for up to 4 days, use a small ballpeen hammer or similar weighted tool and tap firmly on 5 to 6 areas of the bolt housing area. I whack each area for 30 seconds. Then I spray it with oil, then I whack again. Then oil again. I've never had a rusty part not come out after 3 to 4 days of this. And usually the parts are reusable. I recently had to do this on a caliper bolt and pin (one piece). The threads were fine, it was the pin end...it was stuck solid in the receiver-end of the caliper. I couldn't turn the threaded end with a 18" extension! Took 3 days of whacking and oiling on 6 areas of the bolt housing. Then I could back it out.
My experience is the pin usually seizes within the first inch where the pin enters the caliper as this is where dirt and water first accumulates, so I concentrate the heat there. I also found that heating the area this much usually liquifies and builds up pressure with the grease/water stuck further in behind the rust. Once the pin does begin to move there can be a jet of this hot stuff shoot out at you. I am no where near rich; but unless the rust and effort to get the pin out leaves only a slight discolor I always get new to replace it.
to free slide pin (NON THREADED) while it is seized ... best solution .. and so easy .. i ended up using a long 48 inch bar clamp with a high clamping strength in lbs ( home depot ) ... i put it right on the caliper where the frozen slide pin is and amazingly IT MOVED !! no heat .. no bleeding brakes .. etc ! DOESN'T have to be that LONG.. just strong enough pressure wise. then you can work with it .. lube it, etc. be careful not to angle the clamp because it may possibly been the pin ... but if you have new ones .. you are set !!
Thank you! Be careful if you have used a penetrant spray in advance of heating. Wear safety glasses. I had, and some of the penetrant had worked its way down inside and was boiling. When I was able to spin the guide pin it sprayed out, thankfully away from my face.
I had same problem. Solved by putting some grease down in there then threading the caliper bolt through the end of a crescent wrench. Then hammer on the wrench to pop it out.
You can also take a welder and weld a nut to the pin and the heat from the welder will loosen the pin .then take a impact gun on the welded nut pin is destroyed but you save the bracket
I tried this and had the bracket in the vice and it still wouldn't come out. It was super hot couldn't even touch it without getting burned, but maybe not hot enough? Idk, I may just spend the few bucks and get new brackets and guide pins/boots. I did free one completely on the right side, second guide pin was seized completely, got it spinning but it won't come out no matter how hard I hammered on her. Left side was just as seized so I didn't even mess with it. I gave up lol. Test drove the car and brand new pads were smoking on the left rear... o.0...so... gotta do something.
Buying a new caliper bracket w/pins & boots is the right cure. It sucks, it isn't as cheap as we'd like the fix to be, but it's the only right thing to do. Otherwise, if the bore isn't smooth, you've got a permanent problem. How does the bore get roughed up? DIRT, BROKEN BOOT, WATER, HEATING & FREEZING. Once it's rough, we can keep doing this; and maybe we'll learn that you get what you pay for. Prevention is about keeping that boot intact and a *light* amount of grease in the bore. Some suggest to disassemble the brakes once every 60K miles, ensuring the boots are still intact and putting a fresh *light* coat of grease on the pins. If the boots are even questionable, *replace them* before your bore goes to hell. They're about $1.50 each.
Ya I learned that the hard way lol. I would say that there is one other "right way" to do it, which is actually as cost effective amazingly. At least at Autozone in the US. And that is to get a full caliper. It comes ready to go, all brand new parts, even the bracket to attach it to the hub of the car. It ended up being a few dollars cheaper than getting everything separately amazingly. Only bad part about it is needing to bleed the brakes, which thankfully isn't hard to do with the right tools or a helper.
I dont use vice grips and i dont do it outside of the car, leave it bolted to the car so it wont move heat it and use a pipe wrench. pipe wrenches are much heavier and can break it loose no problem
After watching multiple videos of how to remove a seized caliper pin/bolt I mashed everything up and proceded as following: 1. Remove rubber seal with needle nose plyers dont be scared. 2.Torched the fk out of the bolt. 3.hammered the fk out the bolt with large flat head. 4.repeated steps 2 and 3 (taking 15 mins breaks to breathe). 5. Applied adjustable wrench (quality and huge in size). 6. Sprayed pb blaster a tiny bit (clean thoroughly after: pb blaster is not suppose to be inside where pin is located). 7. Twist back in forth the 🔧 and hammer the wrench. 8. Once bolt can spin 360 degrees while still "siezed" THEN take large flat head put the handle to your man chest and apply pressure like a hug while spinning the adjustable wrench. 9. reassemble new pin with crc black or cemtex synthetic (green pack) caliper and brake. The substance is known to cause cancer and reproductice harm be CAUTIOUS and wear gloves. 10. Reassemble all parts you are officially a Man.
Easiest way I know having just done it on a completely rusted frozen pin. Use Rostof (Wurths product) or similar and use vice grips on the 2 flats, and slowly it will work free. Can be done on car.
Never heat anything sitting on concrete...it explodes and might take your eyes out. When ever I see people using vicegrips, I cringe. Put the head of the pin in a vice and rotate the caliper bracket..it works most times.... Bloody amateurs.
You would need to hold the flame directly on the concrete for significant time for it to explode. Even then you'd still have trouble making it explode in an open-air environment like a driveway. Give it a try.
@@innocuous_name7212 you were heating that thing way off the concrete,and vise grips is the only tool that can move a rusted pin off.Some people have zero mechanical knowledge.
This didn’t work for me but I can tell you now that the pin hole in the caliper bracket will probably be damaged beyond repair if this method doesn’t work.
Beware , as I was heating the seized pin from the caliper bracket after a couple of minutes the pin came out like a gunshot the fact that the bracket was secured in a vise and nobody standing nearby saved a possible tragedy
Just the remanufactured brackets are usually well over 20 bucks with core, but you often have to buy the caliper as well and you can't get the core money back without returning the old caliper AND bracket, so it's more like well over a hundred bucks. But yes, if you could get an entire "new" bracket with new bolts, pins and boots for only $15, it is a no brainer...
Worked like a charm! Could not remove a rusted caliper pin on my rav4 and this did the trick!! Thanks for the video
Thanks man, this worked like a charm, didn't even take me 30 seconds. I had spent nearly an hour beating it till it bent beforehand and I still couldn't get it out. Cheers mate.
I have the same problem, I guess I didn't do it long enough, so I'm going to do it again. You're really good at making these videos, you need to keep doing them. I make them for my channel and I'm making around $300.00 a month. My videos have paid for every single vehicle I've done including two transmissions. Keep up the good work. I'll probably make one doing mine again and let people know you helped me by letting me know to do it longer than I thought I needed to, at least 5 minutes. Thanks for sharing your cool & useful video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You are correct. You might need to heat it up for longer than you think. Mine wouldn't budge. I tried everything. I even tried heating the mount. It still wouldn't budge. I finally heated it for a few minutes instead of just until it got hot. I used a breaker bar on the pin and kept heating it until it moved. Eventually, I had success. Thank you for the video and the advice. Now I should only have to replace the pins and boots, instead of the whole caliper (the mount alone isn't available around here).
Just wanted to say thanks. Your vid came up as I was under my car with a stuck slide and your method worked.👍
I tried this,then took my 8 hrs of labor to autozone and bought a new bracket and a beer lol
Same thing today for me
heat it on a stove pops right out
@@joesmith6524 Excellent idea. A new bracket is about $30 (12 Fusion) and a Torch kit is about the same. Couldn't find my torch so I will try the stove.
take out pins and rubber boots or be carefull not too burn boots
@@joesmith6524 Gas or electric?
South Main Auto channel finishes the job with a drill bit to clean the hole out. Simply 4 or so turns cleans it out, so its loosey-goosey again, instead of crusty-rusty.
Thank you. I was thinking this and I didn't know so i googled it and found this. Thank YOU
I don't have a torch, but I used my BBQ lighter instead, and it worked!
You mean like a cooking/culinary butane "torch"? I don't think a simple lighter would get hot enough with enough flame volume long enough to do anything to the bracket...
Thanks for the video, I used a heat gun to warm the caliper. The heat liquefied the grease and the pin slipped out. The heat required was considerably less that heat generated in calipers during normal breaking.
You have to take your brake / caliper / etc...., out every year. This will save a lot of headaches and it will give you a chance to exam everything for safety. Take ONE Saturday a year and you will be good for a long time.
Clean out the bore for the new pin and grease. I use a wire oil galley clean out brush. They are used for cleaning out engine block galleys.
I don't have a torch to heat up rusty bolts.
If I have the time and another ride I do this first, before breaking anything:
2 to 3 times a day, for up to 4 days, use a small ballpeen hammer or similar weighted tool and tap firmly on 5 to 6 areas of the bolt housing area. I whack each area for 30 seconds. Then I spray it with oil, then I whack again. Then oil again. I've never had a rusty part not come out after 3 to 4 days of this. And usually the parts are reusable.
I recently had to do this on a caliper bolt and pin (one piece). The threads were fine, it was the pin end...it was stuck solid in the receiver-end of the caliper. I couldn't turn the threaded end with a 18" extension! Took 3 days of whacking and oiling on 6 areas of the bolt housing. Then I could back it out.
Awsome help,thanku loads,steve from the uk😊😊
My experience is the pin usually seizes within the first inch where the pin enters the caliper as this is where dirt and water first accumulates, so I concentrate the heat there. I also found that heating the area this much usually liquifies and builds up pressure with the grease/water stuck further in behind the rust. Once the pin does begin to move there can be a jet of this hot stuff shoot out at you. I am no where near rich; but unless the rust and effort to get the pin out leaves only a slight discolor I always get new to replace it.
Thermal expansion. The heat expands the bracket and pin hole.
Worked great! Exactly as shown. Thanks for sharing.
to free slide pin (NON THREADED) while it is seized ... best solution .. and so easy .. i ended up using a long 48 inch bar clamp with a high clamping strength in lbs ( home depot ) ... i put it right on the caliper where the frozen slide pin is and amazingly IT MOVED !! no heat .. no bleeding brakes .. etc ! DOESN'T have to be that LONG.. just strong enough pressure wise. then you can work with it .. lube it, etc. be careful not to angle the clamp because it may possibly been the pin ... but if you have new ones .. you are set !!
Appreciate the video man. Didn't have new brackets for my truck at local shops, so this really saved my ass
Worked for me! Just had to pry them out alittle. Thanks for the video
Thank you! Worked perfectly! I appreciate the video!
Heat is not for every caliper bracket,some pins have rubber guides that heat would destroy
If a caliper pin is stuck, the rubber guide is toast anyway whether you burn it up or not.
Should be replacing the rubber anyways
Thank you! Be careful if you have used a penetrant spray in advance of heating. Wear safety glasses. I had, and some of the penetrant had worked its way down inside and was boiling. When I was able to spin the guide pin it sprayed out, thankfully away from my face.
I had same problem. Solved by putting some grease down in there then threading the caliper bolt through the end of a crescent wrench. Then hammer on the wrench to pop it out.
Worked like a charm!!! Thanks a ton!
You can also take a welder and weld a nut to the pin and the heat from the welder will loosen the pin .then take a impact gun on the welded nut pin is destroyed but you save the bracket
Had this problem today. Heat is the absolute best. I don't have that heat though. Ordered the new bracket.
I tried this and had the bracket in the vice and it still wouldn't come out. It was super hot couldn't even touch it without getting burned, but maybe not hot enough? Idk, I may just spend the few bucks and get new brackets and guide pins/boots. I did free one completely on the right side, second guide pin was seized completely, got it spinning but it won't come out no matter how hard I hammered on her. Left side was just as seized so I didn't even mess with it. I gave up lol. Test drove the car and brand new pads were smoking on the left rear... o.0...so... gotta do something.
Buying a new caliper bracket w/pins & boots is the right cure. It sucks, it isn't as cheap as we'd like the fix to be, but it's the only right thing to do. Otherwise, if the bore isn't smooth, you've got a permanent problem. How does the bore get roughed up? DIRT, BROKEN BOOT, WATER, HEATING & FREEZING. Once it's rough, we can keep doing this; and maybe we'll learn that you get what you pay for. Prevention is about keeping that boot intact and a *light* amount of grease in the bore. Some suggest to disassemble the brakes once every 60K miles, ensuring the boots are still intact and putting a fresh *light* coat of grease on the pins. If the boots are even questionable, *replace them* before your bore goes to hell. They're about $1.50 each.
Ya I learned that the hard way lol. I would say that there is one other "right way" to do it, which is actually as cost effective amazingly. At least at Autozone in the US. And that is to get a full caliper. It comes ready to go, all brand new parts, even the bracket to attach it to the hub of the car. It ended up being a few dollars cheaper than getting everything separately amazingly. Only bad part about it is needing to bleed the brakes, which thankfully isn't hard to do with the right tools or a helper.
Can it be replaced with joint grease?
No, it will seize up. Silicone grease or anti seize as a 2nd choice.
Bless your heart. Worked like a charm for me today!
I dont use vice grips and i dont do it outside of the car, leave it bolted to the car so it wont move heat it and use a pipe wrench. pipe wrenches are much heavier and can break it loose no problem
After watching multiple videos of how to remove a seized caliper pin/bolt I mashed everything up and proceded as following:
1. Remove rubber seal with needle nose plyers dont be scared.
2.Torched the fk out of the bolt.
3.hammered the fk out the bolt with large flat head.
4.repeated steps 2 and 3 (taking 15 mins breaks to breathe).
5. Applied adjustable wrench (quality and huge in size).
6. Sprayed pb blaster a tiny bit (clean thoroughly after: pb blaster is not suppose to be inside where pin is located).
7. Twist back in forth the 🔧 and hammer the wrench.
8. Once bolt can spin 360 degrees while still "siezed" THEN take large flat head put the handle to your man chest and apply pressure like a hug while spinning the adjustable wrench.
9. reassemble new pin with crc black or cemtex synthetic (green pack) caliper and brake. The substance is known to cause cancer and reproductice harm be CAUTIOUS and wear gloves.
10. Reassemble all parts you are officially a Man.
Why did you take so long and so many steps, when the dude in the video only took 2 or 3 steps and less than 5 minutes?
I got mine out in about 20 seconds using a blunt tip air hammer chisel. Caliper was not even removed from car.
Thank you so much. Didn't even think of that. 10 seconds and they were out.
Though that is quick and easy not everybody has access to power or air tools
The problem with using this method is that most pins will have a rubber boot on them that will burn if you heat the bracket.
Easiest way I know having just done it on a completely rusted frozen pin. Use Rostof (Wurths product) or similar and use vice grips on the 2 flats, and slowly it will work free. Can be done on car.
If it was stuck explain to me where is the caliper since it does thread thru the bracket
It screws on the end of the pins.
Vice grips and a torch? Seemed a little risky. I used liquid wrench and a Milwaukee impact gun and got the same result
What's so risky?🤔
Just buy a new bracket. No telling how much rust is inside the hole.
No one seems to sell them without the caliper.
easy way is take bracket too a stove heat steel casting under pin loction pops right out!
Appreciate this video, worked damn well!
For $40 just get a whole new rebuilt caliper assy from RockAuto and avoid dealing with the old rusted parts.
just buy a new one just going to have the same problem later
thank for you sharing
Never heat anything sitting on concrete...it explodes and might take your eyes out.
When ever I see people using vicegrips, I cringe.
Put the head of the pin in a vice and rotate the caliper bracket..it works most times....
Bloody amateurs.
Thank you for the tips.
lol...welcome...
God shop owners are ignorant. Not everyone has a vice lol also you shouldnt need a vice to swap a slider pin
You would need to hold the flame directly on the concrete for significant time for it to explode. Even then you'd still have trouble making it explode in an open-air environment like a driveway. Give it a try.
@@innocuous_name7212 you were heating that thing way off the concrete,and vise grips is the only tool that can move a rusted pin off.Some people have zero mechanical knowledge.
This didn’t work for me but I can tell you now that the pin hole in the caliper bracket will probably be damaged beyond repair if this method doesn’t work.
You have to cool it fast cold bucket o water youll here. it. tink tink tink. Then itll come loose !!!
Beware , as I was heating the seized pin from the caliper bracket after a couple of minutes the pin came out like a gunshot the fact that the bracket was secured in a vise and nobody standing nearby saved a possible tragedy
How can we not see the flame wtf lol?
Be careful doing this. Ive had a pin shoot out as soon as i touched the vice grips on it.
If you clamped at the base of the pin where the lip is, it would of moved.
I take mine to the repair shop and they remove the slide bolts for free with a vice and torch
Thats a pin on the bracket not the actual caliper
I have two.
Jesus might as well just buy the bracket for 15 bucks lol
Just the remanufactured brackets are usually well over 20 bucks with core, but you often have to buy the caliper as well and you can't get the core money back without returning the old caliper AND bracket, so it's more like well over a hundred bucks. But yes, if you could get an entire "new" bracket with new bolts, pins and boots for only $15, it is a no brainer...
Aren't you just melting the small rubber gasket on the inside?
Nope
weld a scrap piece of metal too the end and hammer it out
He has no clue what he's doing
yes he does, you've never worked on a car before
U need socket