How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings On 2004-2008 Ford F150 2WD
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2017
- Brian Eslick from How to Automotive www.howtoautomotive.com/ takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the front wheel bearings on a 2004-2008 Ford F-150. You will need a new brake rotor with hub and bearing and a new axle nut.
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Milwaukee 2763-21XC FUEL 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless 1/2" inch Cordless High Torque Impact Wrench with (1) Redlithium XC 5.0Ah Battery amzn.to/2uUaLL9
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Performance Tool W80112 X-Type Pad Spreader amzn.to/2vhHB9w
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for DuraGo BR54107 Front Vented Disc Brake Rotor with Hub Bearing amzn.to/2f7fOlF
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for APDTY 726281 Front Spindle Nuts (Qty-2) Thread Size M24-2.0; Fits 2004-2008 Ford F-150 & 2006-2008 Lincoln Mark LT (Replaces 4L3Z-3C294-AA, 6L3Z-3C294-AA, 4L3Z3C294AA, 6L3Z3C294AA) amzn.to/2uXnU4r
Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml amzn.to/2f6ZfX2
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Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick #HowtoAutomotive #MilwaukeeTools 
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I'm glad that your video was on a 2WD everything else online is on a 4WD
Smh for real
Absolutely, I agree
Thank you and thank you for being super informative throughout the video.
Hell yea can't even fight an exact wheel bearing hub part they all say 4wd
U right.
FINALLY a video for a 2wd truck
I know, I was starting to think I had the only 2WD in the country!
Clear and concise. Very informative. Video quality and lighting were great. Thank you for sharing. Saved me a bundle$$$!!
THANK YOU!!!!! this is exactly what I needed. the internet is full of 4WD vids and parts but I needed to know exactly what to get for the 2WD. this was a lifesaver. thank you for posting. keep up the good work.
Great job man. With your video clearly explained it help me much with my f-150 thank you so much for sharing!
I like your style of videos on repair man, great job and I learned about a new tool here (that pad spreader tool)
Excellent and succinct video. Just what I needed to understand how to work on my daughter's truck.
Awesome video! Makes we what to try to replace it myself. Lots of information.
Thanks
Thanks bro, I used this video today for my 2007 f150, front driver side!! Good looking out
I wanted to see the actual process of pressing in the bearing and the steps associated with that.
Man thank you so much for this video it helped save me some $ and got my wheel sounding smooth again
for sure the M18 milwaukee tool makes the job fast to finsh as always good info and job well done thanks for sharing. cheeeeeeers
j georges thank you.
great video very helpful
Thank you. Just completed the job.
Great video. Thanks.
Hey thank you for the video it helps me a lot
It's really easy to find a great bang for buck corded impact wrench as well.
nicely done video!
Clearly explained..
Thanks for all of your videos
D K glad you like the videos. Thank you for watching!
It was an amazing video The only criticism I have is when it comes to torquing down the wing nut. I didn't have a torque wrench so I used a 24-in breaker bar and just pushed it down as far as it would go with my weight on it for my body pushing down with my arms and I'm 300 lb. It calls for 295 lb torque. I didn't know when I did that that if you over torque it it can make the bearings go out quicker so most other videos I've seen was people using torque wrenches but that's not something everyone has so I would have liked to know a little more about that. I know I had to use a pipe on the breaker bar to get the old one off but I didn't use it to put it back on and all I can do now is hope I didn't tighten it too much. When I told my dad what I did he said hell I could have tightened it to 500 lb doing it that way because I didn't understand how The leverage on that could add so much extra torque with it being a 24-in breaker bar.
Thank you sir your video helped so much.
Just what I was looking for.bery good video by the way
mendezeddie1322 thank you!!
Thanks a lot brother, I will definitely try to replace mine.
Sir great video , where your list of parts to finish the job, rotors and 36 mm nut thks
Good vid.. my son and I used this on his 06 F150.... gawd that axle nut is ruff to bust loose.
Roger Milholland there's some serious Torque on that nut. Glad to help you and your son. Thank you for watching!
Looks pretty easy!
May I ask, what torque wrench are you using that can read 290? Almost all wrenches I'm seeing don't go higher than 250. Am I missing something?
Very nice vid!
Ozone The Great thank you and thank you for watching!
Okay ill ask. Where did you get that torque wrench that goes 295lbs + 😮
Excellent video good man
Kenneth Smith thank you!
I was looking to get the hub assembly kit you mentioned do you have any contact info regarding that
Where did you get the spindle knuckle and how much was it?
Where did you find the whole hub assembly?
I get mixes answers shoot reusing the "1 time use" axle nut. (Recommended). So is it absolutely necessary or can i actually reuse iy? I know whoever has truck before me reused it. Even put anti seize on the threads. No sign of any loctite... .
2:50 didn't see you rub the rotor surface. Do you only spray it?
Same way for the passenger side? Down towards the door? For breaking the hub nut?
Thank you for the video and torque details!
Thank you for watching!
Which rotors are better vented or solid
Great video,very helpful!!!
art palma glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
Does anyone know if you use grease for the bearings or not I seen he didn't put none
Where did you get it??
What size is that cotter key?
I can't locate the hub and bearing pre assembled, I can find the hub or the bearing but not together. Help?
What size cotter pin.
Thanks for the video just a little confused about why the tire on first before the spindle nut is torque down?
So you aren't trying to apply 295 ft lbs while the vehicle is on jack stand or a lift. If the vehicle is sitting on its tires, it eliminates the possibility of having the vehicle fall.
Would the torque spec for the wheel bearing bolt be the same on an '02 F-150 2wd?
NO!
Totally different set up.
Nice to see a link for most of the tools, but you neglected to mention the one most needed.
What torque wrench are you using to get that spindle nut to 295lbs? Most 1/2 inch drive ones only go to 250 max.
I just did this job and discovered the same thing. I ended up buying a 3/4 inch torque wrench, used a 3/4-1/2 inch adapter for the 1/2 inch 36mm socket, and proceeded accordingly. Picked up the torque wrench on Amazon for about $70 I believe.
@@jessec817 I have one to do in the next couple of days.
Ordered a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench from Amazon also.
Saw a 3/4 drive at local Harbor Freight that went to 300ftlbs, but opted instead to get a 100 to 600 range one.
Hopefully it'll be more accurate than the 300 ftlb one. Also Ordered up a cheap impact set of 3/4 inch drive axle nut sockets from Amazon so I don't have to mess with an adapter. Needed some anyway for my 3/4 impact.
Go all the way to 250 then a little more.. 😂 it ain't coming off before you sell it or crack it up
Ok so I replace my whole rotor/bearing assy on both front wheels of my f150 fx2 bc my brakes were shot. Now I get this clicking noise from the front left wheel when under load and esp when making right turns. Could it be a bad bearing? Not seated properly (tq wrench won’t do 295ft-lbs) or could it be smth totally different?
Check and make sure caliber on right could be not lined up right with the brakes pad
If you have a noisy bearing is it imperative to replace it or can you let it go for a while?
Change asap, you can do damage to the spindle if ya don't. Good Luck!
So if I'm not getting any ABS on the dash, would I need to worry about resetting it with a scan tool (which I don't have)?
I'm mainly getting the whirring sound on the front right wheel on my 2006 F150. Thanks
Mike King you will be ok. Even without using a scan tool after a few drive cycles it will reset itself
More cost efficient to replace the whole wheel/hub assembly? Depends on what you're paying for labor. I did my own, so labor cost was $0. Wheel bearing was about $30. The whole assembly was about $100. Of course, you have to have access to a press.
I got new rotors and brake pads but my caliper bracket is making contact with my rotor with little to no clearance. Any idea where I went wrong? They’re identical and it’s only on my driver side where it is making contact
Sounds like you have the wrong rotors. Match them up closely with your old ones.
Great video. Why isn't the axle nut reusable?
I cant give you a technical reason but I have always been told never to reuse lock nuts, specially the type with the nylon on them. My only conclusion is maybe once they are used it causes the interference fit to not be as tight so they may no longer hold like they should. I would think that some new thread locker being applied should solve the problem. There may be some other reason I'm unaware of, such as maybe its just a way to sell more lock nuts, kinda like the oil changes places still say to change your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles even though all the cars made in the last 20 years can go much longer between changes.
What size is big spindle nut
What would you charge to do this job?
Does the rotor/bearing assembly come pre-greased (inner and outer bearings) or did you grease them (not in video)?
pregreased
Did you have to go with the specs to your Milwaukee "HIGH IMPACT" DRILL.
Do you think if I replace the driver side i should replace the passenger side also. Only issue I’m having is on the driver side
nichlas fuentes no you will ok just doing the one side.
Thank you!!
Where can I buy the parts to do this job?? I’ve looked high and low and all I can find are parts for 4WD trucks. I have a 2007 F150 STX 2WD 4.6 L and I can’t find anything I need. HELP .
Rockauto... google... did you even try?
@@truckboattruck328 NOPE, none of the obvious on-line sellers have 2WD hub assemblies, everything is for 4WD
New rotors come with the bearings installed. May as well just replace that and the brake pads.
Wheel hub assembly I can’t find any online where did you buy yours?
Did you find one? I'm having the same issue they're all for a 4wd
I am also having the same issue. Any luck finding where to buy replacements yet?
I can't find any for 2WD either, what's up with that?
My spindle nut doesn't look ANYTHING like that one on your truck and the torque specs that you've given are off the charts! My rotor doesn't even look like that. I'm driving a 2004 and this hub you're working just isn't anything close. Oh fracking well.
Patman Crowley if it’s a 4wd it’ll look a lot different
@@Erik_C_251 It's not a 4wd. I did buy a "thread file" at NAPA Auto Parts. I had to take the spindle off the truck and put it in the vice so that I could get a good purchase on the threads. IT WORKED GREAT! This is one tool that I'll hang on to for the rest of my life! Thanks, R251C!
Is there a seal that needs to be installed in the back of the rotor
No, this set up uses a sealed bearing so there is no need for an extra seal on the rotor like the 03 and older models.
Keep in mind this is a 2WD truck. Not the same as a 4x4 truck.
what type of grease is used for lubricating the bearings? color?
This type of bearing is a sealed bearing. It is already greased from the factory and there is no way to add any more grease to them.
Theoretically these bearings should never loose any grease so they will never need any grease added to them.
Where can I get a torque wrench with a setting of 295 foot pounds
Ryan Clifton that’s what I’m saying. Mine won’t go that high, only up to 200. I stood full weight on my torque wrench and only getting about 240lb-ft on it.
I know it's a year old but if anyone else ask, You can borrow or rent the wrench and other hard to find or costly tools from many autoparts stores, I know Orielly and Napa do.
Will a bad bearing cause vibration on the steering wheel?
Possibly. But most of the time it just sounds like loud tire noise.
Do you need to grease the new bearings?
NO. They are sealed bearings.
Does it need grease on the spindle or bearing?
Arturo Reyes no it's a complete sealed unit. No need for Greece
How to Automotive thank you man !
Grease the spindle make the spindle last longer
I can't believe a new assembly doesn't come with spindle nut
This truck is 4wd?
Hi.i have 2006 F150 5.4 Lariat 2WD crew cab .you don't not if this wheel bearing is the same for my truck..
Guillermo Doroteo yes it’s the same.
2004 - 2008 all the same everything
Very nice….
Thank you!
295 ft lbs? Jeeesus!
You seen the torque specs for strut to the lower control arm 351 ft-lb for 2004 model. Smh
I gave a thumbs up, but one thing? Why does but just few mechanics crack open the bleeder valve, when depressing the Caliper Cylinder? The brake system is to important to not think of the whole system, and long term longevity. All in all, good job.
God Speed,,,
My 2005 Ford f150 lattoit don't look like that type of bearing
man that truck need bad alignment or the ball joints were bad you could see the wire on the inside of the tire
How can a bad wheel bearing throw a abs code?
DJhenderlong The ABS pick up is part of the wheel bearing and as it wobbles or moves it throws off the air gap which confuses it.
New bearings at Advanced Auto were only $65 bucks and having a press in the shop was no big deal....will still have to pull everything off to see what condition the rotor is in.
you said it WAS no big deal, but you still have to pull it apart? So how did the press work out for the bearing?
@@Firebird6292 ....should have said "pull the wheel off," because you really can't measure the rotors or see them and the pads clearly....press worked fine except I dropped it and broke the speedometer ring on the backside after getting the bearings out.
Couldn't get a new one so Advanced Auto took the bearings back since I didn't open them and gave me the complete rotor/bearings unit which also had a new spindle nut.....was a win/win.
Just slipped right on, torqued the nut, C-clamped the brake cylinders, replaced the clips and pads, then reassembled everything....thanks, and the noise went away as the old bearings had "grooves" on them.
Video says how to replace wheel bearing... was excited to see you do that, but you just replaced the rotor.
Not really changing the bearing as much as rotor with a new bearing already installed.
Is this easy or expensive enough that someone might take a good one from a truck to replace a bad one on another truck, and put the bad one on the truck that the good one was taken from? I let a friend of a mutual friend borrow my truck for a week or so which had no problems. Now all of sudden the right front wheel sounds bad while driving and esp when turning now as if it's rubbing (or maybe needs grease?), AND driver side of engine sounds like a lifter or pushrod is tapping. On top of which my 2 rear suicide doors are stuck closed on the bottom, dents and scratches in back, front of bed wall is bent pushed in under rear window, and tailgate top liner was ripped off and nasty dent on top corner above tail light. Plz Spare me any lecture, I've def learned my lesson about being a nice guy. And if course I can't prove any of it.
And turns out the guy seems to be a pretty sketchy dude and doesn't return calls. Def not ever doing this again. Some people can be total scum.
Aww man I thought the wheel bearings were serviceable like on the trucks before 04. I started hearing noise and thought I could pull the rotor off and grease the bearings.
If you hear noise, there is actual damage to the surface of the bearing or race and grease will not solve it.
I dont believe that one time use shit on that high torque applications.the time u are on the road it starts rusting and sticks the nut for on there forever 15 yr plus mechanic
Guy that does not show how to replace the 'bearings'. The whole rotor assembly is not the same. Was thinking you came up with a good at home fix for that.
To achieve 295 ft.lbs Go to Harbor Freight tools and buy a 3/4 drive breaker bar (Pittsburgh brand because lifetime warranty) and put a 6ft cheater pipe on it. When the breaker bar breaks.... you've achieved the 295 ft.lbs torque specs. Now return the lifetime warranty tool back for replacement or refund.
He must be getting paid by Milwaukee
threadlock the shoe - why in anyone's name would you need to do that? Just gonna make it impossible when you need to pull it off lol
Dude you didn’t seat the wheel properly before running the first lug nut all the way down then one right next to it. Don’t forget the basics bro I hate when I do that.
You didnt even do the bearing you did the hub
He said its much easier to just replace the rotor with the bearing as it is pressed into it. He never said hub.
He just miss titled the video. Still a good video I guess.
It says how to replace the bearings that’s how to replace a rotor how misleading
Only video with a 2wd everything else is 4wd
Shill much
bulshit. this video does not show how to replace the bearings. it shows what a dealership Tech does by replacing the rotor Hub and bearing assembly.
Aj Seuol that’s the best repair.
Yup...you need to take it to a machine shop to have it done right and that's between 150/200... Buy factory whole part for 150 on Amazon
To change your video title man it's BS it's misleading and you're not doing what you say the title suggests this needs to be reported as crap
Stfu dude if u werent ignorant youd know the bearing is built into the rotor yoh can either buy the bearings and go to a machine shop and press them into the old rotor for $100s more or just buy the whole thing
Ok. so, this wasn't a video on how to replace the bearing. It was a video on how to replace the rotor.
You should change your name from "how to automotive" to "how not to name a video".
Nobody wants to press a bearing when you can buy the whole assembly jackass